Something has to go to make way for a lathe. I'm thinking about dumping my
Crapsman router and router table. The router is an absolute POS, and I
figure the table isn't much worth saving either.

Space is at a real premium, and I was just thinking that maybe I could make
a shop-built router table out of MDF or something, sized to sit on top of
my table saw when in use.

Has anyone done something like this? Where are the gotchas?

--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/

I was considering building a fold down extension to my table saw that
the router would mount to. That way it would serve as extra area for the
saw when I wasn't using the router, and possibly be able to use the saw's
rip fence for the router.

It was just an idea that I never developed any farther......space is at a
premium like you said.

Ron

Silvan wrote:
Has anyone done something like this?

Yes I have but a variant that sits/sat on saw horses. These
are kinda cool onna 'count of they only take a couple of
hours and you have something when your done.

Where are the gotchas?

What you are contemplating is a Go To Hell Router Table, or,
The Anti-Ultimate Router Table. These come in many flavors.

The Ultimate (lowest ranking that is) Go To Hell Router
Table is a router clamped in a bench vise. Some people
don't like these onna 'count of its not too hard to deform
the router casing. A step up from this would be to build a
small cradle to nest the motor in thus distributing the
pressures.

Next up comes the Slab Style Go To Hell Router Table. This
is nothing more than a 3/4" sink cut-out from a kitchen
counter with a router screwed to the underside and the bit
poking through the top. Use drywall screws to attach for
that Real Go To Hell Router Table Look. In use you simply
clamp this to a bench. Some people will warn you against
the motor being too heavy and bending the top. This is true
but for most cuts not a deal breaker. Also note, you will
need a little extra material out the back side to clear the
clamps and your fence.

After this comes the Re-Enforced Slab Style Go To Hell
Router Table where you re-enforce the slab all around with
some lumber set on edge and glued and screwed to take the
flex out. Really anal Go To Hell Router Table makers will
even go so far as to build a torsion box for this. That's
too much work and the end up with something that's not Go To
Hell Router Tableish.

Now we move into the style you are enquiring about.
Personally I like to avoid these at all costs because the
user soon finds out that they work just fine and they never
get around to building An/The Ultimate Router Table.
Anyway, four sides (no bottom required if the top is
attached) is all that's needed. Really only two sides need
to be all the way from the underside of the top and the
surface it sits on. The other sides (usually front and
back) can be just rails to stiffen things up and allow
access to the motor/switch. One caveat, be sure to make it
tall enough to allow your longest bit to retract below the
table. The down side to being too tall is it may be
uncomfortable after its placed on top of a surface at
34"-36" off the floor. In reality many people find higher
surfaces more comfortable to work at.

As for side to side and front to back dimensions, it need
not be any bigger that it need be to take the router. Even
something 12" X 12" would work depending on whether or not
your router handles will fit. If you go the small box route
be sure to implement some sort of means for clamping the box
to the table in case you ever do anything large that might
scootch the table across the bench/saw top. The small box
also insures that you won't have any sag from the motor
though depending on how big your overall top is you may have
sagging on the infeed/outfeed sides. It doesn't sound
though that your table will be mistaken for an aircraft
carrier so you'll more than likely be Okee-Dokee.

That do it for you?

UA100, builder of An Ultimate Router Table (The Tom Watson
Model) in between things like getting his Powermatic 141 14"
(pre-made in Chiwan by children/prison labor), finishing up
the 2002 kitchen remodel, eBaying old tools for fresh tool
cash and general day-to-day life stuff...

Ron S. wrote:
I was considering building a fold down extension to my table saw that
the router would mount to. That way it would serve as extra area for
the saw when I wasn't using the router, and possibly be able to use
the saw's rip fence for the router.

I just installed a Bench Dog router tabletop to my table saw (a Ridgid 2424).
The directions said to remove the left wing and replace it with the table, but I
eyeballed the situation and decided there was no reason why the existing cast
iron wing couldn't support the table. I drilled four mounting holes and bolted
it on. Works great without a bit of sag and I still have the use of the
original wings. A very slick installation, I think. The downside? Price.

http://woodworker.com/cgi-bin/FULLPR...ARTNUM=103-556



--
Mortimer Schnerd, RN


http://www.mortimerschnerd.com

Silvan wrote:
Space is at a real premium, and I was just thinking that maybe I could make
a shop-built router table out of MDF or something, sized to sit on top of
my table saw when in use.

Should work...but check the resulting height to see if would be
too tall for you. If so, you can put it on a shorter worksurface,
like this:

http://shop.woodcraft.com/Woodcraft/...fcode=04IN11RL

--
************************************
Chris Merrill

(remove the ZZZ to contact me)
************************************

"Mortimer Schnerd, RN" wrote in message
om...
Ron S. wrote:
I was considering building a fold down extension to my table saw that
the router would mount to. That way it would serve as extra area for
the saw when I wasn't using the router, and possibly be able to use
the saw's rip fence for the router.

I just installed a Bench Dog router tabletop to my table saw (a Ridgid
2424).
The directions said to remove the left wing and replace it with the table,
but I
eyeballed the situation and decided there was no reason why the existing
cast
iron wing couldn't support the table. I drilled four mounting holes and
bolted
it on. Works great without a bit of sag and I still have the use of the
original wings. A very slick installation, I think. The downside?
Price.

http://woodworker.com/cgi-bin/FULLPR...ARTNUM=103-556

Did you put it on the right or the left? Does it matter?
Other than price, are you happy with your investment?

Wade Lippman wrote:
http://woodworker.com/cgi-bin/FULLPR...ARTNUM=103-556

Did you put it on the right or the left? Does it matter?
Other than price, are you happy with your investment?

I've got it mounted on the left. That worked out well for me since the table
saw is towards the edge of the garage. Putting the router on the left side of
the saw puts me deepest in the garage. If I put it on the other side, I'd have
to open the door and stand in the opening to use it. G

That was my preference. I don't think it would really make any difference which
side you mounted it on. If you have lightweight aluminum wings, you need to
remove one of them and replace it with the insert. Since I had the heavyweight
cast iron ones, it's stout enough where you can just mount it on the end instead
of replacing the wing. The manufacturer expects you to replace the left wing,
but then again the manufacturer mispelled "Ridgid" (even though they had several
photographs of a Ridgid saw with the nameplate clearly visible in their
instruction booklet).) I figured things were open to interpretation.

Other than price? Hell, yes; I think it's great. My old router table was
pretty light weight. I don't have to worry about this one slipping away from
me.... it also makes for a wider support surface for the saw. I'm delighted
with it.



--
Mortimer Schnerd, RN


http://www.mortimerschnerd.com

Thanks for the information. It is pretty much what I am looking for, but I
have no access to the left so I need to put it on the right.

The picture does not show a duct collector port. Is that below the table,
or is it just not shown.

Chris Merrill wrote:

http://shop.woodcraft.com/Woodcraft/assets/html
table_mate.asp?&refcode=04IN11RL

Hmmmm... Working height would be OK if I added up to about 20" to my saw
table height, but that workmate idea looks to be worth thinking about
anyway. That might be just the ticket. Easier to make than the gizmo I
had in mind too.

Good thought!

--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/

nospam wrote:

I was considering building a fold down extension to my table saw that
the router would mount to. That way it would serve as extra area for the
saw when I wasn't using the router, and possibly be able to use the saw's
rip fence for the router.

It was just an idea that I never developed any farther......space is at a
premium like you said.

Space to the sides is too tight for an extension though. I'd have to move
the saw outside to use it. I have to do that sometimes anyway, for working
on big stuff, but I'd rather keep my shop set up so that I can do my usual
boxes and other small projects without moving anything around.

It's not a bad idea though. Good way to make use of space in my next shop,
which will be bigger, but not that much bigger.

--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/

Silvan wrote:
Hmmmm... Working height would be OK if I added up to about 20" to my saw
table height, but that workmate idea looks to be worth thinking about
anyway. That might be just the ticket. Easier to make than the gizmo I
had in mind too.

Good thought!

I can't take credit for it...my BIL is very short on space in his shop,
so I pointed him to that article because I _really_ regret putting my
router table into my TS extension wing. Why? On many of my projects,
it seems that the TS and the router table are the primary tools I use,
so I kept having to reset my router table fence each time I used the
TS, or vice versa.

I decided I'd rather have them separate - and this idea appealed to
me. Also, I have several other tools that would sit nicely on the
workmate - a disk/belt sander, grinder, spindle sander, etc.



--
************************************
Chris Merrill

(remove the ZZZ to contact me)
************************************

Wade Lippman wrote:
Thanks for the information. It is pretty much what I am looking for,
but I have no access to the left so I need to put it on the right.

I don't see any reason why that wouldn't work.

The picture does not show a duct collector port. Is that below the
table, or is it just not shown.

You just couldn't see it. There is a lexan triangular shaped port on the
backside of the fence where you plug in a standard vacuum hose



--
Mortimer Schnerd, RN


http://www.mortimerschnerd.com.

Chris Merrill wrote:

I decided I'd rather have them separate - and this idea appealed to
me. Also, I have several other tools that would sit nicely on the
workmate - a disk/belt sander, grinder, spindle sander, etc.

That's what I'm thinking too. My JET mini lathe is going to be too stout to
swap on and off the bench as much as I intended when I bought it, so I need
to liberate some room for it to stay put. That means I'll have to swap out
the router, sander, and maybe the grinder too. Though I might just mount
the grinder to the lathe stand. Seems like I'll probably wish I had done
that eventually if I don't go ahead and do it.

--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/