I'm looking into building a router table soon and before getting into that,
I'm thinking about the router I would want to have in there. I have a PC690
that I do NOT plan to use since whatever goes in there I'd rather leave. In
order to have something that's easily adjustable, the two main candidates
are a) a fixed-base router with something akin to the "Router Raiser" or a
plunge router that has a microadjustment feature accessible from the top.
The obvious advantage to the plunge setup is cost. However, I've read
conflicting accounts of the usefulness in practice of the microadjustment of
some plunge routers. Does anyone have positive or negative comments about
the current crop of plunge routers and their effectiveness and ease of use
in this scenario?

todd

"Todd Fatheree" wrote in message
...
I'm looking into building a router table soon and before getting into
that,
I'm thinking about the router I would want to have in there. I have a
PC690
that I do NOT plan to use since whatever goes in there I'd rather leave.
In
order to have something that's easily adjustable, the two main candidates
are a) a fixed-base router with something akin to the "Router Raiser" or a
plunge router that has a microadjustment feature accessible from the top.
The obvious advantage to the plunge setup is cost. However, I've read
conflicting accounts of the usefulness in practice of the microadjustment
of
some plunge routers. Does anyone have positive or negative comments about
the current crop of plunge routers and their effectiveness and ease of use
in this scenario?

todd

Have you considered the Triton Router?
It was specifically designed for router table use.
Review at http://www.onlinetoolreviews.com/rev...itonrouter.htm

Cost may be a factor though.

Regards,

Dean Bielanowski
Editor,
Online Tool Reviews
http://www.onlinetoolreviews.com
------------------------------------------------------------
Latest 5 Reviews:
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------------------------------------------------------------

Hi Todd,
At a critical point in a time sensitive project my 3.5hp router gave up the
ghost so I need a replacement quickly. After reviewing goggle and other sources
I was going back and forth between a PC 7518 and a "raiser" of some sort and the
Triton. While the PC package is Tried and True it was, however, about 2X the
price of the Triton ( $440CDN/ 320USD). I was offered the Triton on a 30 trial
period.
So far I love it. Once you remove the plunge spring ( a ten second job) it is
such a treat to use in the table. Height adjustment and bit changing are a
breeze.
The first task I put it to was to route blind slots (1.5") in oak for poker
chips using a 1.5" core box bit. Its slow speed setting is great for large
bits. I did this by dropping the oak pieces on the moving bit , this causes a
bit of vibration which at first caused the switch safety slide to close ,
shutting off the router. A thin piece of cardboard fixed the problem and I ended
up with 16 perfect slots. In order to hold the chips properly the depth must be
exact. The fine adjustment worked flawlessly.
The next task was to round over the edges of some 2" oak tables. Very quickly
moved from small round-overs to ending with a 1" radius bit.
It is ok as a hand held plunge router, however, if my task were to buy a
router for hand held plunge use I would look elsewhere but you were looking for
a table router. Three weeks into my trial period would I do it again? you bet I
would. As it is a relatively new tool I will post sometime in the future with an
update. Cheers, JG


Todd Fatheree wrote:

I'm looking into building a router table soon and before getting into that,
I'm thinking about the router I would want to have in there. I have a PC690
that I do NOT plan to use since whatever goes in there I'd rather leave. In
order to have something that's easily adjustable, the two main candidates
are a) a fixed-base router with something akin to the "Router Raiser" or a
plunge router that has a microadjustment feature accessible from the top.
The obvious advantage to the plunge setup is cost. However, I've read
conflicting accounts of the usefulness in practice of the microadjustment of
some plunge routers. Does anyone have positive or negative comments about
the current crop of plunge routers and their effectiveness and ease of use
in this scenario?

todd

I have the Freud 2000 and "Router Razier" in a modified "Norm" router
table. It has worked well. Only complaint is in changing bits, the
collet does not come above the table. I like the variable speed and the
soft start.

One thing that I can find no use for in a router table like Norm's is
the plexiglass door to the router area. I never look in there when it
is running so why have it clear and a static generator to collect dust.

BRuce

Todd Fatheree wrote:

I'm looking into building a router table soon and before getting into that,
I'm thinking about the router I would want to have in there. I have a PC690
that I do NOT plan to use since whatever goes in there I'd rather leave. In
order to have something that's easily adjustable, the two main candidates
are a) a fixed-base router with something akin to the "Router Raiser" or a
plunge router that has a microadjustment feature accessible from the top.
The obvious advantage to the plunge setup is cost. However, I've read
conflicting accounts of the usefulness in practice of the microadjustment of
some plunge routers. Does anyone have positive or negative comments about
the current crop of plunge routers and their effectiveness and ease of use
in this scenario?

todd



--
---

BRuce

Todd Fatheree wrote:

I'm looking into building a router table soon and before getting into that,
I'm thinking about the router I would want to have in there. I have a PC690
that I do NOT plan to use since whatever goes in there I'd rather leave. In
order to have something that's easily adjustable, the two main candidates
are a) a fixed-base router with something akin to the "Router Raiser" or a
plunge router that has a microadjustment feature accessible from the top.
The obvious advantage to the plunge setup is cost. However, I've read
conflicting accounts of the usefulness in practice of the microadjustment of
some plunge routers. Does anyone have positive or negative comments about
the current crop of plunge routers and their effectiveness and ease of use
in this scenario?

todd

I have four seperate Router tables set up in my shop ..one conventional
Benchdog "store bought" unit... one in the wing of a Table saw plus a
a horizontal and pin router set ups or tables.....

ALL have a Cheap DeWalt 710 mounted in them (the 1 Hp unit..150 buck
one..not really sure if 710 is the correct number)

I just do not need a extremely powerful router... Nor have I felt the
"need" to buy a router raiser set up...although I may "want" one in the
future especially in the router mounted in the Table saw wing...since it
is mounted at such a low height ...

For General hand held use I use the PC with both the fixed and plunge
bases...again not an overly powered router..

Bob Griffiths

Ever watch "The Router Workshop" on PBS?

The ease of performing all operations _on_ the router when it is lying on
the table convinced me I didn't need any shaper wannabe setup. I got the
LV circular base and hung one of the M12V Hitachis, sans springs, underneath
it. Out, in, setup bars and clamp-on fences sure make for a comfortable
operation.

"Todd Fatheree" wrote in message
...
I'm looking into building a router table soon and before getting into
that,
I'm thinking about the router I would want to have in there. I have a
PC690
that I do NOT plan to use since whatever goes in there I'd rather leave.
In
order to have something that's easily adjustable, the two main candidates
are a) a fixed-base router with something akin to the "Router Raiser" or a
plunge router that has a microadjustment feature accessible from the top.
The obvious advantage to the plunge setup is cost. However, I've read
conflicting accounts of the usefulness in practice of the microadjustment
of
some plunge routers. Does anyone have positive or negative comments about
the current crop of plunge routers and their effectiveness and ease of use
in this scenario?

todd

Bruce,

Go here http://www.sommerfeldtools.com/ and search for Bent Wrench. I
believe you will find 2, one for a Hitachi and one for a PC. As I recall, I
ordered the one for the Hitachi then filed it open to 27mm to fit the Freud
collet. My Freud router is dedicated to the table so I've done some simple
modifications like removing the springs, opening the base and adding a cable
pull to the collet lock. When I want to change bits, I raise it up, pull
the cable for the collet lock, use the bent wrench and change the bit.

Bob S.


BRuce wrote in message news:1063277248.66203@sj-nntpcache-3...
I have the Freud 2000 and "Router Razier" in a modified "Norm" router
table. It has worked well. Only complaint is in changing bits, the
collet does not come above the table. I like the variable speed and the
soft start.

thanks Bob, I will go look now. mine is also dedicated but I have not
gone as far as you have. Would removing the springs have any advantage
since I am using the router razier? I will definitely look at a cable
pull for the lock. prying it with a screwdriver and holding it open
with a pencil are getting old. :-) I even tried the MCLS extender but
it adds too much and i can't get most of my bits low enough.

BRuce

Bob S. wrote:

Bruce,

Go here http://www.sommerfeldtools.com/ and search for Bent Wrench. I
believe you will find 2, one for a Hitachi and one for a PC. As I recall, I
ordered the one for the Hitachi then filed it open to 27mm to fit the Freud
collet. My Freud router is dedicated to the table so I've done some simple
modifications like removing the springs, opening the base and adding a cable
pull to the collet lock. When I want to change bits, I raise it up, pull
the cable for the collet lock, use the bent wrench and change the bit.

Bob S.


BRuce wrote in message news:1063277248.66203@sj-nntpcache-3...

I have the Freud 2000 and "Router Razier" in a modified "Norm" router
table. It has worked well. Only complaint is in changing bits, the
collet does not come above the table. I like the variable speed and the
soft start.




--
---

BRuce

Bob G wrote:
ALL have a Cheap DeWalt 710 mounted in them (the 1 Hp unit..150 buck
one..not really sure if 710 is the correct number)

I think you mean the 610.

--
************************************
Chris Merrill

(remove the ZZZ to contact me)
************************************

Bruce,

I have the Route-R-Lift by Jessem and by removing the springs (and handles)
it allowed about another 1/2" of travel. Simple task. The top of the knob
on the Freud router adjustment knob pry's off (use a pen knife blade)
exposing the nut you need to get at to take the assembly apart. I packed all
the "spare" parts together in a large plastic baggy and stored them
someplace so I wouldn't loose them..... now where was it I stored them..?

As for the cable to the collet, if you're going to do it , I could send some
pics so you can see how to do it. I didn't take any pics during the process
but I think they would show enough for you to figure it out. As you're
aware, the collet is a double lock. Break it loose, then turn it a few
turns, then another turn for the final unlocking.

The 27mm bent wrench is the way to go. I found that out from John Lucas at
www.workshopdemos.com when he was showing a demo for some CMT products which
included the Hitachi router and CMT bits etc. I have an enclosure built
around my router with a 4" DC port attached so I rarely ever have to pull
the router out of the box except to blow it out every few months..

Bob S.



BRuce wrote in message news:1063287353.724448@sj-nntpcache-3...
thanks Bob, I will go look now. mine is also dedicated but I have not
gone as far as you have. Would removing the springs have any advantage
since I am using the router razier? I will definitely look at a cable
pull for the lock. prying it with a screwdriver and holding it open
with a pencil are getting old. :-) I even tried the MCLS extender but
it adds too much and i can't get most of my bits low enough.

BRuce

I'll second JGS's recommendation of the Triton. If you're looking for a
router for dedicated use...it really should be on list of "serious
contenders". I have one and love it.

One caveat: You said you wanted 'above the table height adjustment'.
I wanted that, too. The Triton does not have this. Even if it did,
you would need to reach under the table to lock/unlock the plunge
lock, anyway. I don't think I would trust any router-lift system
to have zero play without some sort of locking system...and AFAIK, none
of them have above-the-table-locking. However, I must admit that I
have not evaluated any of them in depth because they were too
expensive for my budget.

What the Triton _does_ have is very easy depth adjustment from under
the table, automatic spindle lock and single-wrench above-the-table
bit changing. It has two depth adjustments - rough and fine. I use
both every time. The fine adjustment is pretty sensitive and very
easy to use.

All-in-all, an excellent choice for table use. And it's quite a bit
cheaper than a new router + router lift.

You might also consider the Milwaukee - it has above-the-table
depth adjustment, also.

Chris


JGS wrote:
I was going back and forth between a PC 7518 and a "raiser" of some sort and the
Triton. While the PC package is Tried and True it was, however, about 2X the
price of the Triton ( $440CDN/ 320USD). I was offered the Triton on a 30 trial
period.
So far I love it. Once you remove the plunge spring ( a ten second job) it is
such a treat to use in the table. Height adjustment and bit changing are a
breeze.



--
************************************
Chris Merrill

(remove the ZZZ to contact me)
************************************

Bill,

I think Freud may have borrowed their micro-adjustable fence idea from Pat
Warner http://www.patwarner.com/routerfence.html which he designed several
years back. It was featured in FWW two years ago and I built one using the
instructions in the magazine article and a couple of emails with Pat. Well
worth the effort too.

The big difference - and it is significant, is that on the Freud, there is
very little support on the fences. And while you can micro-adjust them,
they flex under slight load. During lunch, I stopped by the nearby WWW and
they have this on demo. The fence alone is $149. It looks good and feels
good but having used the one designed by Pat and comparing them, they simply
didn't carry their design far enough. You can get precision adjustment but
you can't maintain it I guess is the easiest way to explain it. Also, there
is no dial indicator on the Freud, the adjustment markings are stamped on
the knobs in increments with one full turn being .050".

The split fence is a good idea if you need it. Pat Warner's design includes
that also but on my next revision, I'll be eliminating that feature since I
have yet needed to use it. By eliminating that, I can eliminate an
alignment step also. When adjusting the opening for the bit, both fences
then need to be adjusted to be coplanar. Same deal on the Freud.

If you need precision then I think the Freud misses the mark - wait for
Version II, or build one yourself or buy one from Pat.

Bob S.

Have you considered the Triton Router?
It was specifically designed for router table use.
Review at http://www.onlinetoolreviews.com/rev...itonrouter.htm

Cost may be a factor though.

Sounds great but where do you find the 160 volt outlet for the 3.25HP motor?

Marc