I flexed my credit card & bought a 6" jointer, 14" bandsaw, 16.5" drill
press, 650 CFM dust collector & 12.5" planer from a guy getting out of
woodworking. (All Jet except the Delta planer.) IMO the "Jet blue" clashes
violently with the "Grizzly green" of my table saw & sander but I suppose
I'll get used to it. ;-)

I've made a few test cuts with the jointer & it scares me. IDAGS on
"jointer safety" but so far all the hits are pretty generic. "Don't cut too
deep, no nails or loose knots, no hands over the cutter unless you're using
push blocks, ..." Are there some good sites for learning to use the jointer
and still be able to do10-finger typing for the rest of my life?

Thanks.

-- Mark

"Mark Jerde" wrote in message

Are there some good sites for learning to use the jointer
and still be able to do10-finger typing for the rest of my life?


Don't know of any, but as an alternative, any woodworking classes in your
area? Most have a safety course along with the basic woodworking.

If your credit card has not melted into a puddle, if you were to buy
something at a good woodworking store, someone there may take a few minutes
with you at a slow time.
Ed

Only one dangerous part - so keep your fingers away. Now as to how to get
work done while avoiding, any basic woodworking text should cover it. Make
sure you have push blocks for surfacing, and a push board for edging the
small stuff, and that's about it.

Only thing scarier is the shaper.

"Mark Jerde" wrote in message
...
I flexed my credit card & bought a 6" jointer, 14" bandsaw, 16.5" drill
press, 650 CFM dust collector & 12.5" planer from a guy getting out of
woodworking. (All Jet except the Delta planer.) IMO the "Jet blue"
clashes
violently with the "Grizzly green" of my table saw & sander but I suppose
I'll get used to it. ;-)

I've made a few test cuts with the jointer & it scares me. IDAGS on
"jointer safety" but so far all the hits are pretty generic. "Don't cut
too
deep, no nails or loose knots, no hands over the cutter unless you're
using
push blocks, ..." Are there some good sites for learning to use the
jointer
and still be able to do10-finger typing for the rest of my life?

This looks pretty interesting. I might buy one myself.

http://www.woodsafe.com/

Bob

"Mark Jerde" wrote in message
...
I flexed my credit card & bought a 6" jointer, 14" bandsaw, 16.5" drill
press, 650 CFM dust collector & 12.5" planer from a guy getting out of
woodworking. (All Jet except the Delta planer.) IMO the "Jet blue"
clashes
violently with the "Grizzly green" of my table saw & sander but I suppose
I'll get used to it. ;-)

I've made a few test cuts with the jointer & it scares me. IDAGS on
"jointer safety" but so far all the hits are pretty generic. "Don't cut
too
deep, no nails or loose knots, no hands over the cutter unless you're
using
push blocks, ..." Are there some good sites for learning to use the
jointer
and still be able to do10-finger typing for the rest of my life?

Thanks.

-- Mark

Here's a basic link:

http://www.ccohs.ca/oshanswers/safet...rk/planer.html

I think a set of rubber backed push blocks are essential with a jointer. If
you don't have a pair, get some.

Bob

"Mark Jerde" wrote in message
...
I flexed my credit card & bought a 6" jointer, 14" bandsaw, 16.5" drill
press, 650 CFM dust collector & 12.5" planer from a guy getting out of
woodworking. (All Jet except the Delta planer.) IMO the "Jet blue"
clashes
violently with the "Grizzly green" of my table saw & sander but I suppose
I'll get used to it. ;-)

I've made a few test cuts with the jointer & it scares me. IDAGS on
"jointer safety" but so far all the hits are pretty generic. "Don't cut
too
deep, no nails or loose knots, no hands over the cutter unless you're
using
push blocks, ..." Are there some good sites for learning to use the
jointer
and still be able to do10-finger typing for the rest of my life?

Thanks.

-- Mark

Let me refine my question a little. Are there some sites where folks talk
about safety and effectiveness with the jointer? Like the best ways to how
to deal with cups, twists & bows. (I know, cups down.) Kind of "Jointer
Best Practices" stuff.

Thanks.

-- Mark

Actually, throw in don't try to joint a too short board and what you have
pretty well covers the whole deal.

Use push blocks (the long broad kind with the rubber on the bottom) and you
really really have to work at it to hurt yourself.

--
Mike G.
Heirloom Woods
www.heirloom-woods.net
"Mark Jerde" wrote in message
...
I flexed my credit card & bought a 6" jointer, 14" bandsaw, 16.5" drill
press, 650 CFM dust collector & 12.5" planer from a guy getting out of
woodworking. (All Jet except the Delta planer.) IMO the "Jet blue"
clashes
violently with the "Grizzly green" of my table saw & sander but I suppose
I'll get used to it. ;-)

I've made a few test cuts with the jointer & it scares me. IDAGS on
"jointer safety" but so far all the hits are pretty generic. "Don't cut
too
deep, no nails or loose knots, no hands over the cutter unless you're
using
push blocks, ..." Are there some good sites for learning to use the
jointer
and still be able to do10-finger typing for the rest of my life?

Thanks.

-- Mark

My Grizzly catalog has three pages of power feeders. The only one I see
that mentions jointers is the "Copy Power Feeder." Does anyone use power
feeders with jointers, or is this an oil & water combination?

Thanks.

-- Mark

In article ,
"Mark Jerde" wrote:

Are there some good sites for learning to use the jointer
and still be able to do10-finger typing for the rest of my life?

I don't have any site to recommend, but I'd like to offer up what I
think is one of the most important tips.

Many folks appear to push the wood down against the table & fence
*really hard.* The problem with this is that they have so much body
weight leaning against the jointer that if something goes wrong and the
piece is kicked out or their hand (or pushblock) slips, they have no
where to go but fall onto the jointer.

It really only takes a light, but firm pressure to keep the board in
proper position to flatten or square an edge. If something should
happen, then there's much more likelyhood you'll maintain your balance
and not end up lunging forward - thereby keeping any injury to a minimum.

Have respect for the jointer or any tool; visualize what the proceedure
is for each cut; plan ahead to make sure you have ample room to maneuver
the piece going into the cutter and out of the cutter; and finally take
your time - rushing through a final step at the end of a session leads
to more errors and injury than probably anything an inexperienced
woodworker may do to himself. IOW, complacency and impatience are the
real demons of a working safely.

--
Owen Lowe and his Fly-by-Night Copper Company
Offering a shim for the Porter-Cable 557 type 2 fence design.
http://www.flybynightcoppercompany.com
http://www.easystreet.com/~onlnlowe/index.html

On Fri, 17 Oct 2003 20:48:46 GMT, "Bob Davis"
wrote:

I think a set of rubber backed push blocks are essential with a jointer. If
you don't have a pair, get some.

I'd say a set of three. Two little one-handed ones for working long
stuff, and a long two-handed one (like a rubber-soled jointer plane)
for passing short pieces through.

--
Die Gotterspammerung - Junkmail of the Gods

Fly-by-Night CC wrote:

Many folks appear to push the wood down against the table & fence
*really hard.* The problem with this is that they have so much body
weight leaning against the jointer that if something goes wrong and
the piece is kicked out or their hand (or pushblock) slips, they have
no where to go but fall onto the jointer.

It really only takes a light, but firm pressure to keep the board in
proper position to flatten or square an edge. If something should
happen, then there's much more likelyhood you'll maintain your balance
and not end up lunging forward - thereby keeping any injury to a
minimum.

When joining the edge of a 2x4", when do you move your hands to the outfeed
table? The guy I bought the jointer from moved his about 18" in front of
the cutter & pulled the rest of the way. Given there are two operative
parts of the word "kickback," namely "kick" and "back," the "back" part
wants me to never have my hands in front of the cutter but my supply of
infinite long stock is gone. ;-)

-- Mark

Mark, while my post does not offer you a specific technique, I thought it
would be appropriate to direct you to my recently posted paper on safety. As
a Hobbyist Woodworker and a full time Risk Management Consultant for the
past 15 years, the words I share with you are directed toward an attitude
and mindset toward safety rather than a specific technique.

Good luck with the new tools, and when the hair on the back of your neck
stands up like a frightened cat, STOP! Step back and think about your next
move very carefully. http://www.woodworkinghobby.com/html/safety.html

--
Dennis Slabaugh, Hobbyist Woodworker
www.woodworkinghhobby.com



"Mark Jerde" wrote in message
...
I flexed my credit card & bought a 6" jointer, 14" bandsaw, 16.5" drill
press, 650 CFM dust collector & 12.5" planer from a guy getting out of
woodworking. (All Jet except the Delta planer.) IMO the "Jet blue"
clashes
violently with the "Grizzly green" of my table saw & sander but I suppose
I'll get used to it. ;-)

I've made a few test cuts with the jointer & it scares me. IDAGS on
"jointer safety" but so far all the hits are pretty generic. "Don't cut
too
deep, no nails or loose knots, no hands over the cutter unless you're
using
push blocks, ..." Are there some good sites for learning to use the
jointer
and still be able to do10-finger typing for the rest of my life?

Thanks.

-- Mark

George wrote:
sure you have push blocks for surfacing, and a push board for edging the
small stuff, and that's about it.


George, What's a push board? (going on the assumption there are no
stupid questions)

jw

In article m, "Mark Jerde" wrote:

When joining the edge of a 2x4", when do you move your hands to the outfeed
table?

When jointing *anything* I move my left hand to the outfeed table as soon as
there's one push-block-length of wood on the table. As soon as there are two
push-block-lengths of wood on the table, my right hand joins it.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)

Mark Jerde wrote:

woodworking. (All Jet except the Delta planer.) IMO the "Jet blue"
clashes violently with the "Grizzly green" of my table saw & sander but I

Wal-Mart has spray paint for 88 cents a can.

Paint everything red.

--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/

Sounds extreme. Also puts him at the mercy of a downsloping off-feed table.
Generally, as soon as there's more than a couple of handwidths on the
outfeed, transfer there, "walking" the board so you keep things pretty well
referenced to the same spot on the table. Control with the right, don't
press.

Stand to the side, toward the rear. Light cuts minimize possibility of
kickback, and, as I tell the kids at school, if it wants to go, LIFT YOUR
HANDS AND LET IT! Never seen kick except when surfacing.

BTW, if you ever want to see something scary, look at a leftie trying to
figure out how to feed!

"Mark Jerde" wrote in message
s.com...

When joining the edge of a 2x4", when do you move your hands to the
outfeed
table? The guy I bought the jointer from moved his about 18" in front of
the cutter & pulled the rest of the way. Given there are two operative
parts of the word "kickback," namely "kick" and "back," the "back" part
wants me to never have my hands in front of the cutter but my supply of
infinite long stock is gone. ;-)

-- Mark

A board held vertically with a "heel" extending down say 1/4". I like one
with two obvious handholds, which helps control the piece. Imagine a plane
with a hook at the trailing end to push the board, and you've got a good
idea. Fierer and other standard texts should have them illustrated. For
the really narrow stuff, pitch it a bit to the left so you can exert down
and fence-hugging pressure.

"j" wrote in message
k.net...
George wrote:
sure you have push blocks for surfacing, and a push board for edging the
small stuff, and that's about it.


George, What's a push board? (going on the assumption there are no
stupid questions)

jw

"Fly-by-Night CC" wrote in message
news
In article ,
"Mark Jerde" wrote:

Are there some good sites for learning to use the jointer
and still be able to do10-finger typing for the rest of my life?

I don't have any site to recommend, but I'd like to offer up what I
think is one of the most important tips.

Many folks appear to push the wood down against the table & fence
*really hard.* The problem with this is that they have so much body
weight leaning against the jointer that if something goes wrong and the
piece is kicked out or their hand (or pushblock) slips, they have no
where to go but fall onto the jointer.

Owen Lowe and his Fly-by-Night Copper Company

Right. Also, I teach my students to keep a couple fingers, or part of the
hand over the top of the fence, so if a board does "leave", their weight, or
pressure, will be caught by the fence, without the need to react.
--
Jim in NC

On Fri, 17 Oct 2003 19:49:06 GMT, "Mark Jerde"
wrote:

I flexed my credit card & bought a 6" jointer, 14" bandsaw, 16.5" drill
press, 650 CFM dust collector & 12.5" planer from a guy getting out of
woodworking. (All Jet except the Delta planer.) IMO the "Jet blue" clashes
violently with the "Grizzly green" of my table saw & sander but I suppose
I'll get used to it. ;-)

I've made a few test cuts with the jointer & it scares me. IDAGS on
"jointer safety" but so far all the hits are pretty generic. "Don't cut too
deep, no nails or loose knots, no hands over the cutter unless you're using
push blocks, ..." Are there some good sites for learning to use the jointer
and still be able to do10-finger typing for the rest of my life?

Thanks.

-- Mark


Just be aware of what you are doing. No leaning. No distractions.
No slippery floors. No drugs. Both feet on clean floor. Keep the
safety guard in place. Keep push blocks conveniently nearby. Don't
rush. It's not a particularly dangerous machine (it doesn't kick
back like a table saw can), but the knives are very sharp with the
machine on or off. When it comes time to change the knives, do so
carefully.

Have respect for the jointer or any tool; visualize what the proceedure
is for each cut; plan ahead to make sure you have ample room to maneuver
the piece going into the cutter and out of the cutter; and finally take
your time - rushing through a final step at the end of a session leads
to more errors and injury than probably anything an inexperienced
woodworker may do to himself. IOW, complacency and impatience are the
real demons of a working safely.


Good advice. I'd add this:

Do think about what kinds of injuries each tool could inflict, and how
you should react to each. Talk this over with anyone else in your household.
You and they should know:

- what to do for a severed bodypart
- how to get to the nearest hospital
- which hospital to go to for which kinds of injuries
- how and when to call 911
- where the main power cutoff switch in the shop is located
- where to find a fire extinguisher
- how to use pressure to stop bleeding
- etc.

For example, your town may have several hospitals, and one may have
an emergency eye care facility, while another specializes in trauma
and a third has a really good hand specialist. It's important to discuss this
stuff ahead of time because that training will kick in if something ever
does happen that requires quick and correct action.

Then, be vigilant to ensure that you never need to use those emergency
plans.

Personally, I also avoid using dangerous machines when I'm the only one
in the house. It's not inconvenient, as I usually have plenty of other
work that involves nothing more hazardous than sandpaper or shellac.

What about Hammertite Green or Gray?

On Fri, 17 Oct 2003 18:27:08 -0400, Silvan
wrote:

Mark Jerde wrote:

woodworking. (All Jet except the Delta planer.) IMO the "Jet blue"
clashes violently with the "Grizzly green" of my table saw & sander but I

Wal-Mart has spray paint for 88 cents a can.

Paint everything red.

George wrote:

snip

Only thing scarier is the shaper.

Ever seen a 24 or 36 inch disk sander with 60 grit on it?

charlie b

"George" wrote in message ...
Only one dangerous part - so keep your fingers away. Now as to how to get
work done while avoiding, any basic woodworking text should cover it. Make
sure you have push blocks for surfacing, and a push board for edging the
small stuff, and that's about it.


If it's real small edge it with a handplane. Safer and does a better job.
To do very small parts clamp the lane in the vise bottom up, or hold it
in your lap with one hand and draw the work accross it with the other
hand.

However, back to the jointer. One other concern is kick-back. I've
never seen kickback from a jointer but it can catapult the board back
opposite to the direction you are feeding it so don't let anyone
you care for stand there and don't put anything you don't want broken
there either.

--

FF

On 18 Oct 2003 17:54:31 -0700, (Fred the Red
Shirt) wrote:

I've never seen kickback from a jointer but it can catapult the board back
opposite to the direction you are feeding it

Or if you feed it the wrong way (!) it'll snatch it right out of your
hands. My jointer now has a big "-- Feed" marking on it.

--
Die Gotterspammerung - Junkmail of the Gods

Andy Dingley wrote in message . ..
On 18 Oct 2003 17:54:31 -0700, (Fred the Red
Shirt) wrote:

I've never seen kickback from a jointer but it can catapult the board back
opposite to the direction you are feeding it

Or if you feed it the wrong way (!) it'll snatch it right out of your
hands. My jointer now has a big "-- Feed" marking on it.

Uh, yeah.
The jointer guards I have seen do not allow feed in the wrong
direction. Also, unlike some table saw guards, they do not seem
to interfere with the work either. Although I'm a bit doubtful as
to the effectiveness of the guards to protect you from the kinds
of accidents that happen with jointers.

--

FF

Europeans use a different kind of guard, Fred. They can feed in the wrong
direction.

"Fred the Red Shirt" wrote in message
om...
Andy Dingley wrote in message
. ..
On 18 Oct 2003 17:54:31 -0700, (Fred the Red
Shirt) wrote:

I've never seen kickback from a jointer but it can catapult the board
back
opposite to the direction you are feeding it

Or if you feed it the wrong way (!) it'll snatch it right out of your
hands. My jointer now has a big "-- Feed" marking on it.

Uh, yeah.
The jointer guards I have seen do not allow feed in the wrong
direction. Also, unlike some table saw guards, they do not seem
to interfere with the work either. Although I'm a bit doubtful as
to the effectiveness of the guards to protect you from the kinds
of accidents that happen with jointers.

--

FF

On 19 Oct 2003 10:28:22 -0700, (Fred the Red
Shirt) wrote:

The jointer guards I have seen do not allow feed in the wrong
direction.

We use "bridge" guards here in the UK, and Europe too AFAIK. You see
some US-style sprung guards around, but I think they've been
unsaleable on new kit since the '98 regs came in.

Here's a useful HSE guide (if you're in the UK, you should read this
site - lots of good stuff)
http://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/wis17.pdf
http://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/woodindx.htm

Although this is a pathertic little benchtop jointer, it's the same
guard as on my 6"
http://www.axminster.co.uk/default.asp?part=CCJ

There's a curved aluminium extrusion that slides sideways through the
end of a rise-and-fall arm. For jointing, you slide the aluminium
sideways. For wide planing, you lift the arm up and pass the stock
under it. It has the disadvantage that the guard doesn't spriong back
when you remove the stock, leaving an unguarded cutter, but on the
whole I prefer them.

--
Die Gotterspammerung - Junkmail of the Gods

....just a simple question. If the machine is capable of 1/64ths of an inch
cut and common wisdom is not to exceed 1/8" at a time on a 6" machine, how
can you ever get hurt unless the piece is too thin or narrow or short to
begin with?

Only time I ever draw blood on the thing is in setting them up (twice
now!!!...cleaning the factory grease off before even plugging the damn
things in).

"Phisherman" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 17 Oct 2003 19:49:06 GMT, "Mark Jerde"
wrote:

I flexed my credit card & bought a 6" jointer, 14" bandsaw, 16.5" drill
press, 650 CFM dust collector & 12.5" planer from a guy getting out of
woodworking. (All Jet except the Delta planer.) IMO the "Jet blue"
clashes
violently with the "Grizzly green" of my table saw & sander but I suppose
I'll get used to it. ;-)

I've made a few test cuts with the jointer & it scares me. IDAGS on
"jointer safety" but so far all the hits are pretty generic. "Don't cut
too
deep, no nails or loose knots, no hands over the cutter unless you're
using
push blocks, ..." Are there some good sites for learning to use the
jointer
and still be able to do10-finger typing for the rest of my life?

Thanks.

-- Mark


Just be aware of what you are doing. No leaning. No distractions.
No slippery floors. No drugs. Both feet on clean floor. Keep the
safety guard in place. Keep push blocks conveniently nearby. Don't
rush. It's not a particularly dangerous machine (it doesn't kick
back like a table saw can), but the knives are very sharp with the
machine on or off. When it comes time to change the knives, do so
carefully.

Been following the thread with only mild interest. I was really curious to
see how anyone ANYONE, as some poster had indicated could happen, could
accidentally feed stock the wrong way through a jointer. So far I haven't
seen the answer to that.

However, as to how one can hurt oneself taking only one 1/64" cut. While the
blades only extend an RCH above the outfeed table there is still relatively
a large opening between the infeed and outfeed table that will, should an
errant digit enter it, allow you to get quite a manicure.

Say a thin or short board being fed on the trailing edge with the bare hand
and too much pressure dipping into that gap.

--
Mike G.
Heirloom Woods
www.heirloom-woods.net
"Tom Kohlman" wrote in message
et...
...just a simple question. If the machine is capable of 1/64ths of an
inch
cut and common wisdom is not to exceed 1/8" at a time on a 6" machine, how
can you ever get hurt unless the piece is too thin or narrow or short to
begin with?

Only time I ever draw blood on the thing is in setting them up (twice
now!!!...cleaning the factory grease off before even plugging the damn
things in).

"Phisherman" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 17 Oct 2003 19:49:06 GMT, "Mark Jerde"
wrote:

I flexed my credit card & bought a 6" jointer, 14" bandsaw, 16.5" drill
press, 650 CFM dust collector & 12.5" planer from a guy getting out of
woodworking. (All Jet except the Delta planer.) IMO the "Jet blue"
clashes
violently with the "Grizzly green" of my table saw & sander but I
suppose
I'll get used to it. ;-)

I've made a few test cuts with the jointer & it scares me. IDAGS on
"jointer safety" but so far all the hits are pretty generic. "Don't
cut
too
deep, no nails or loose knots, no hands over the cutter unless you're
using
push blocks, ..." Are there some good sites for learning to use the
jointer
and still be able to do10-finger typing for the rest of my life?

Thanks.

-- Mark


Just be aware of what you are doing. No leaning. No distractions.
No slippery floors. No drugs. Both feet on clean floor. Keep the
safety guard in place. Keep push blocks conveniently nearby. Don't
rush. It's not a particularly dangerous machine (it doesn't kick
back like a table saw can), but the knives are very sharp with the
machine on or off. When it comes time to change the knives, do so
carefully.

"Tom Kohlman" wrote in message

...just a simple question. If the machine is capable of 1/64ths of an
inch
cut and common wisdom is not to exceed 1/8" at a time on a 6" machine, how
can you ever get hurt unless the piece is too thin or narrow or short to
begin with?

No matter how idiot proof a tool is, the world keeps coming up with bigger
and better idiots. Someone will run a piece that is too thin, too narrow,
or too short to begin with.

I can easily see someone taking a 6" wide cut 1/8" deep off the palm of
their hand.
Ed

In article , "Tom
Kohlman" wrote:

...just a simple question. If the machine is capable of 1/64ths of an inch
cut and common wisdom is not to exceed 1/8" at a time on a 6" machine, how
can you ever get hurt unless the piece is too thin or narrow or short to
begin with?


If you're not careful about it, the jointer will effortlessly remove
1/64 off any misdirected fingers 32 times before you even have time
to react.

On Mon, 20 Oct 2003 21:14:49 -0400, "Mike G"
wrote:

I was really curious to
see how anyone ANYONE, as some poster had indicated could happen, could
accidentally feed stock the wrong way through a jointer.

My own fault. I let someone use one of my machines, and as they were
a "time served carpenter", I assumed they knew which way to feed it.
Turns out they'd never worked in a workshop before, only ever on-site.

rant
As an "unqualified" amateur furniture maker looking for work, I'm
apparently only fit for minimum-wage labouring jobs. But some
2x4-muncher can pull a stunt like this.

--
Die Gotterspammerung - Junkmail of the Gods

Well, I guess that just proves that where there is a will there is a way.

--
Mike G.
Heirloom Woods
www.heirloom-woods.net
"Andy Dingley" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 20 Oct 2003 21:14:49 -0400, "Mike G"
wrote:

I was really curious to
see how anyone ANYONE, as some poster had indicated could happen, could
accidentally feed stock the wrong way through a jointer.

My own fault. I let someone use one of my machines, and as they were
a "time served carpenter", I assumed they knew which way to feed it.
Turns out they'd never worked in a workshop before, only ever on-site.

rant
As an "unqualified" amateur furniture maker looking for work, I'm
apparently only fit for minimum-wage labouring jobs. But some
2x4-muncher can pull a stunt like this.

--
Die Gotterspammerung - Junkmail of the Gods

My dad can affirm that you can feed a suitably substantial piece of stock
the correct direction through a joiner, using the proper pusher, and taking
only the merest fraction of wood off, and still turn the tips of your
fingers into a fine red mist when the stock decides to jump. There is no
safe combination of joiner drum and human finger. The only way to avoid
serious injury on a joiner is to keep your fingers as far away (and
preferably downstream of the feed direction) as possible from the drum.

Jay Windley wrote:
My dad can affirm that you can feed a suitably substantial piece of
stock the correct direction through a joiner, using the proper
pusher, and taking only the merest fraction of wood off, and still
turn the tips of your fingers into a fine red mist when the stock
decides to jump.

Yurg!!

There is no safe combination of joiner drum and
human finger. The only way to avoid serious injury on a joiner is to
keep your fingers as far away (and preferably downstream of the feed
direction) as possible from the drum.

Does anyone use feeders with jointers? (I asked this already but if it was
answered my filter ate it.)

-- Mark