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#1
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How to Apply the Last Coat of Poly for a Dining Table Top?
I would like to know a good way to apply the last coat of poly on a
dining table top. I am almost done with re-finishing the dining table top. I have painted many coats of poly, and sanded it many times. Now, the table top is very smooth. After I have applied a coat of poly with a natural bristle brush or a foam brush, I find that the surface in general is very smooth -- but there are too many little bubbles. Using a rag is better; but I still get enough bubbles that I want something better. Spraying poly from a spray can is good; but the surface feels very grainy, not glossy smooth at all. What should I do? Thanks in advance for any help. Jay Chan |
#2
Posted to rec.woodworking
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How to Apply the Last Coat of Poly for a Dining Table Top?
Have you considered a wipe-on poly? Try thinning your poly 50/50 and wiping it on with a lint-free rag or paper towel. The goal is a VERY thin rubbed-in coat, almost like an oil finish. |
#4
Posted to rec.woodworking
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How to Apply the Last Coat of Poly for a Dining Table Top?
wrote in message ups.com... I would like to know a good way to apply the last coat of poly on a dining table top. I am almost done with re-finishing the dining table top. I have painted many coats of poly, and sanded it many times. Now, the table top is very smooth. After I have applied a coat of poly with a natural bristle brush or a foam brush, I find that the surface in general is very smooth -- but there are too many little bubbles. Using a rag is better; but I still get enough bubbles that I want something better. Spraying poly from a spray can is good; but the surface feels very grainy, not glossy smooth at all. What should I do? Thanks in advance for any help. Jay Chan I was in Paxton Lumber yesterday (local hardwood dealer) and I overheard the sales rep on the phone talking to a noob. He told him that poly should never be used on furniture, only on floors... I thought that was a strange thing to tell a customer... |
#5
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How to Apply the Last Coat of Poly for a Dining Table Top?
"Locutus" writes: I was in Paxton Lumber yesterday (local hardwood dealer) and I overheard the sales rep on the phone talking to a noob. He told him that poly should never be used on furniture, only on floors... Hmmm... I prefer floor-grade poly on my furniture, too. I figure, anything designed to be walked on can stand some abuse. |
#6
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How to Apply the Last Coat of Poly for a Dining Table Top?
DJ Delorie wrote:
Hmmm... I prefer floor-grade poly on my furniture, too. I figure, anything designed to be walked on can stand some abuse. Try Gymseal once, and you'll ditch poly forever. |
#7
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How to Apply the Last Coat of Poly for a Dining Table Top?
I had tiny bubbles in my dried poly. I looked through a jewelers magnifying
loupe. Yup, bubbles. Thought it might be sand or dirt, or dust. They were half in and half out, but I could neither brush them out or sand them out. I am sure that there are scientific words, and a possible explanation and solution. I don't have them. I could not block sand the bubble in half, without destroying the surrounding area. And subsequent coats would have same anyways. It would have left concave half pitts if sanding was possible. so there they are. Too deep to ignore, and not raised enough to even half fix!! Don't know what I did wrong or not right. it was inside of drawers, and the right finish, so what are you gonna do. I personally think the only solution is not to get them in the first place. I used a new purdy brush, probably coated the brush with solvent and ficked off. May have forgot, not sure. Don't think I thinned first or any coat (3) because the can does not mention it. It was spar, not hard type cause I had it already. I can only guess that a little thinner may have been the solution. And maybe not in the order of 10% which may be too much. Could be as low as 1%. I think experimentation is in order. I think this applies to all coats, and don't know if more thinner on the first coat as primer is needed, whether or not the can says so. NB i did poly outdoors once in high temp and very high humidity, and the water got right into the finish and it went white, like milk paint. Next tiem, snaded down, not to wood, and it was gone, gone. I think you could tell you had sanded it all out. Yes it was that dramatic. For arguments sake, has anybody done a descent job of poly with w/ a brush, or foam without bubbles. Simple ya, na is sufficient. If speciically so, was it thinner, and how much? ----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==---- http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups ----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =---- |
#8
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How to Apply the Last Coat of Poly for a Dining Table Top?
"Malcolm Hoar" wrote in message ... Thin the poly and let it stand for a while before applying (time for the bubbles to rise). I've had good success with the Wooster foam brushes. Dito that. The Wooster foam brushes are remarkable good for this. |
#9
Posted to rec.woodworking
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How to Apply the Last Coat of Poly for a Dining Table Top?
"Locutus" wrote in message ... wrote in message ups.com... I would like to know a good way to apply the last coat of poly on a dining table top. I am almost done with re-finishing the dining table top. I have painted many coats of poly, and sanded it many times. Now, the table top is very smooth. After I have applied a coat of poly with a natural bristle brush or a foam brush, I find that the surface in general is very smooth -- but there are too many little bubbles. Using a rag is better; but I still get enough bubbles that I want something better. Spraying poly from a spray can is good; but the surface feels very grainy, not glossy smooth at all. What should I do? Thanks in advance for any help. Jay Chan I was in Paxton Lumber yesterday (local hardwood dealer) and I overheard the sales rep on the phone talking to a noob. He told him that poly should never be used on furniture, only on floors... I thought that was a strange thing to tell a customer... Was that the Paxton near Denver, CO? They really have a huge supply of exotic woods. W W |
#10
Posted to rec.woodworking
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How to Apply the Last Coat of Poly for a Dining Table Top?
In article , "bent" wrote:
For arguments sake, has anybody done a descent job of poly with w/ a brush, or foam without bubbles. Simple ya, na is sufficient. If speciically so, was it thinner, and how much? Yes, oil based poly, thinned quite a bit (maybe 20%) and a foam brush. Finished with 0000 steel wool and a little wax. Actually, it was Minwax Helmsman Spar Urethane. No bubble problems visible to the naked eye. -- |~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~| | Malcolm Hoar "The more I practice, the luckier I get". | | Gary Player. | | http://www.malch.com/ Shpx gur PQN. | ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ |
#11
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How to Apply the Last Coat of Poly for a Dining Table Top?
"Warren Weber" wrote in message . .. "Locutus" wrote in message I was in Paxton Lumber yesterday (local hardwood dealer) and I overheard the sales rep on the phone talking to a noob. He told him that poly should never be used on furniture, only on floors... I thought that was a strange thing to tell a customer... Was that the Paxton near Denver, CO? They really have a huge supply of exotic woods. W W No, the one in Cincinnati Ohio. Great place for good wood. |
#12
Posted to rec.woodworking
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How to Apply the Last Coat of Poly for a Dining Table Top?
Malcolm Hoar wrote:
In article . com, wrote: I would like to know a good way to apply the last coat of poly on a dining table top. I am almost done with re-finishing the dining table top. I have painted many coats of poly, and sanded it many times. Now, the table top is very smooth. After I have applied a coat of poly with a natural bristle brush or a foam brush, I find that the surface in general is very smooth -- but there are too many little bubbles. Using a rag is better; but I still get enough bubbles that I want something better. Spraying poly from a spray can is good; but the surface feels very grainy, not glossy smooth at all. What should I do? Thin the poly and let it stand for a while before applying (time for the bubbles to rise). I've had good success with the Wooster foam brushes. After a day or three, you can rub out the inevitable minor imperfections with some combination of: * 0000 steel wool * Wet sanding. Maybe 600 grit all the way to 1500-2000 * Pummice stone and then rotten stone * Automotive rubbing compound and then automotive polishing compound I like the effect that I get with 0000 steel wool which is quick and easy. That should be totally smooth but not very shiny. If you want a high gloss you'll have to try some of the other options. In any event, I think you'll get to desired state of perfection by rubbing, and rubbing... The degree of glossiness will be determined by what material(s) you choose to use for that rubbing. -- |~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~| | Malcolm Hoar "The more I practice, the luckier I get". | | Gary Player. | | http://www.malch.com/ Shpx gur PQN. | ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Thanks for the suggestion of thinning the poly first. I tried that once. But I didn't wait for the bubbles to go away before using the mixture. I should have waited long enough for the bubbles to rise. Next time, I will wait (may be half a day). Also thanks for the tips of the way to remove the last bits of imprefection. I will use various fine grit sandpaper to sand the surface down, and rub the surface with automotive rubbing compound and then automotive polishing compound. I didn't know that I could use automotive stuffs on kitchen table. Thanks. Which grid of sandpaper do you recommend? I already have 400 grit and 600 grit sandpaper. Would you recommend me to sand in this sequence: 400-grit, 600-grit, 1000-grit, 1500-grit Jay Chan |
#13
Posted to rec.woodworking
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How to Apply the Last Coat of Poly for a Dining Table Top?
In article . com, wrote:
Which grid of sandpaper do you recommend? I already have 400 grit and 600 grit sandpaper. Would you recommend me to sand in this sequence: 400-grit, 600-grit, 1000-grit, 1500-grit I'd start with 600 grit. However, I think you'll need wet and dry paper (if you don't already have it). You will need to use it wet too. I'd probably try mineral spirits rather than water. Obviously, you'll want to allow a few days for the poly to cure fully (esp. during this colder time of year). Whatever abrasive you use, go very, very gently. You're not trying to remove a whole bunch of material here -- just smooth and polish the topmost surface. With a little common sense and a lot of care, you should be able to achieve a really beautiful finish. -- |~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~| | Malcolm Hoar "The more I practice, the luckier I get". | | Gary Player. | | http://www.malch.com/ Shpx gur PQN. | ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ |
#14
Posted to rec.woodworking
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How to Apply the Last Coat of Poly for a Dining Table Top?
wrote in message ups.com... I would like to know a good way to apply the last coat of poly on a dining table top. I am almost done with re-finishing the dining table top. I have painted many coats of poly, and sanded it many times. Now, the table top is very smooth. After I have applied a coat of poly with a natural bristle brush or a foam brush, I find that the surface in general is very smooth -- but there are too many little bubbles. Using a rag is better; but I still get enough bubbles that I want something better. Spraying poly from a spray can is good; but the surface feels very grainy, not glossy smooth at all. What should I do? Knock the last coat down with 1000 or 1200 grit paper. Don't be afraid to wet sand. Use a sanding block and take it down until you have an evenly scuffed surface - no shiny spots. The shiny spots will be low points. Once you have the surface flat (in both senses of the word), use automotive rubbing compound and buff it back up to the desired level of shine. If you use a medium cut compound you should bring the 1200 grit scratches up with little effort. For a deep, clear, bright shine follow this up with a fine cut buffing compound. You can get these rubbing/buffing compounds at any automotive paint supplier or at many automotive parts stores. -- -Mike- |
#15
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How to Apply the Last Coat of Poly for a Dining Table Top?
"Malcolm Hoar" wrote in message ... In article . com, wrote: Which grid of sandpaper do you recommend? I already have 400 grit and 600 grit sandpaper. Would you recommend me to sand in this sequence: 400-grit, 600-grit, 1000-grit, 1500-grit I'd start with 600 grit. However, I think you'll need wet and dry paper (if you don't already have it). You will need to use it wet too. I'd probably try mineral spirits rather than water. Obviously, you'll want to allow a few days for the poly to cure fully (esp. during this colder time of year). I would not use 600 grit at the point - it's too coarse for the work at hand and will leave scratches too deep. At this point 1200 should be all that is necessary. 600 is a tooth providing grit and should not be used in the process of bringing up finishes. -- -Mike- |
#16
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How to Apply the Last Coat of Poly for a Dining Table Top?
"bent" wrote in message ... For arguments sake, has anybody done a descent job of poly with w/ a brush, or foam without bubbles. Simple ya, na is sufficient. If speciically so, was it thinner, and how much? I spread poly straight up with foam pads. The thing with poly is to spread it, not paint it. Work poly at all and you introduce air bubbles. I pull it as evenly as I possibly can across the piece and then I flatten it with 1200 or so and buff back to the shine I want. -- -Mike- |
#17
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How to Apply the Last Coat of Poly for a Dining Table Top?
Jeff Jewitt described application of Sherwin Williams Fast Dry Oil
Based Varnish using Viva paper towels in FWW a couple of years ago. The Viva towels are smooth and don't leave a pattern in the finish. A 1:1 mix of varnish and Naptha, flashes off faster, using plastic squirt jug and wiping on up to 3 coats a day. Use gloss only to avoid stripes. On 08 Dec 2006 12:34:32 -0500, DJ Delorie wrote: Have you considered a wipe-on poly? Try thinning your poly 50/50 and wiping it on with a lint-free rag or paper towel. The goal is a VERY thin rubbed-in coat, almost like an oil finish. |
#18
Posted to rec.woodworking
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How to Apply the Last Coat of Poly for a Dining Table Top?
DJ Delorie wrote:
Have you considered a wipe-on poly? Try thinning your poly 50/50 and wiping it on with a lint-free rag or paper towel. The goal is a VERY thin rubbed-in coat, almost like an oil finish. Thanks for the suggestion of using wipe-on-poly. I have just finished putting the first coat of wipe-on-poly on the dining table top. It looks good -- no bubble; but I am putting the wipe-on-poly a bit too thin. I will put on the second coat a bit thicker, and I am sure the result will be even better. Last time when I tried thinning poly with thinner, I still got bubbles. I probably didn't thin it enough. The wipe-on-poly from the can is already properly thinned. That is the reason why it works fine this time; but didn't work last time when I thinned the poly myself. Wipe-on-poly is great. But now I understand why people want to rub the finish instead of relying on wipe-on-poly. Soon after I have put on the wipe-on-poly, I start seeing a few dusts landing on the wet surface. Sigh... Having said this, I will stick with wipe-on-poly for now instead of rubbing the finish. The reason is that I need to have the table ready for X'mas dinner. If I wanted to rub-in the finish, I would need to wait one month for the poly to completely hardened before I can start rubbing in order to achieve a high gloss finish (according to a book on wood finishing). I don't have one month to wait. Anyway, after a few years of hard use by my kids, I am sure I will need to refinish the dining table. At that time, I will try rubbing the finish. Thanks again for the many good suggestions people have offered here. Jay Chan |
#19
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How to Apply the Last Coat of Poly for a Dining Table Top?
Sherwin Williams Fast Dry Oil Based Varnish thinned 1:1 with Naptha
and wiped with Viva paper towel, smooth surface towel, allows three coats a day and dries fast! Fast dry reduces the falling dust particles impact. On 10 Dec 2006 19:04:38 -0800, wrote: DJ Delorie wrote: Have you considered a wipe-on poly? Try thinning your poly 50/50 and wiping it on with a lint-free rag or paper towel. The goal is a VERY thin rubbed-in coat, almost like an oil finish. Thanks for the suggestion of using wipe-on-poly. I have just finished putting the first coat of wipe-on-poly on the dining table top. It looks good -- no bubble; but I am putting the wipe-on-poly a bit too thin. I will put on the second coat a bit thicker, and I am sure the result will be even better. Last time when I tried thinning poly with thinner, I still got bubbles. I probably didn't thin it enough. The wipe-on-poly from the can is already properly thinned. That is the reason why it works fine this time; but didn't work last time when I thinned the poly myself. Wipe-on-poly is great. But now I understand why people want to rub the finish instead of relying on wipe-on-poly. Soon after I have put on the wipe-on-poly, I start seeing a few dusts landing on the wet surface. Sigh... Having said this, I will stick with wipe-on-poly for now instead of rubbing the finish. The reason is that I need to have the table ready for X'mas dinner. If I wanted to rub-in the finish, I would need to wait one month for the poly to completely hardened before I can start rubbing in order to achieve a high gloss finish (according to a book on wood finishing). I don't have one month to wait. Anyway, after a few years of hard use by my kids, I am sure I will need to refinish the dining table. At that time, I will try rubbing the finish. Thanks again for the many good suggestions people have offered here. Jay Chan |
#20
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How to Apply the Last Coat of Poly for a Dining Table Top?
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#21
Posted to rec.woodworking
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How to Apply the Last Coat of Poly for a Dining Table Top?
DJ Delorie wrote:
writes: but I am putting the wipe-on-poly a bit too thin. No such thing. Try 2-3 coats if you think it's "not enough". Last time when I tried thinning poly with thinner, I still got bubbles. I probably didn't thin it enough. Nope, way too thick, and you're probably still wiping it on, not rubbing it on. but didn't work last time when I thinned the poly myself. 50/50 ? Soon after I have put on the wipe-on-poly, I start seeing a few dusts landing on the wet surface. Not thin enough. When I do wipe on poly, the coat is so thin it's almost dry when I'm done rubbing (like oil, you wipe off any excess, then rub the remainder in until it's dry-ish). It takes 10 coats to get a sufficient finish, and even that "looks" thin when I'm all done. Note that when I say "rubbing" I mean... what I do is dip a corner of a folded paper towel into the poly, and rub the towel over the wood. I rub firmly - I'm definitely rubbing the poly into the grain, not just wiping a layer of poly on. This physical rubbing is what avoids the bubbles, not just the thinness of the poly. I don't mean I'm polishing the coats after they dry. I never do that. What you have suggested is totally different from what the instruction on the can of wipe-on-poly says. This really makes me interested. Seem like you are rubbing in the poly wet, instead of rubbing the dry/hardened poly. May I ask you the following questions: If I understand you correctly, you rub the wipe-on-poly until it is dry instead of waiting the poly to dry naturnally, right? And this is the key to reduce the chance of getting dusts on the surface, right? How soon do you put on the next coat? Do you wait for the poly to completely hardened and then light-sand it, and then rub in the next coat? Do you immediately put on the next coat right after you have rubbed in the wipe-on-poly to dry? How long does 10 coats of doing this take you? Does this work on a surface that has already had 6 coats of poly and is completely flat and smooth and no wood grain? How does the finish look after 10 coats of your way of rubbing in the wipe-on-poly? Should I expect to see a semi-gloss finish or a gloss finish assuming that I am using clear-gloss wipe-on-poly? Sorry for that many questions. But I have never heard about this way of applying wipe-on-poly, and this way seems to be very promising. Thanks in advance for any further info about this way of applying wipe-on-poly. Jay Chan |
#22
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How to Apply the Last Coat of Poly for a Dining Table Top?
Someone update this, I wanna know how it worked out!
Take some pictures too! |
#23
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How to Apply the Last Coat of Poly for a Dining Table Top?
" writes: Someone update this, I wanna know how it worked out! Take some pictures too! I don't know about the other person's project, but I'm working on a top for a pair of corner cabinets for our dining room, and so far they're coming out OK. The things I noted while I was doing it: I only use the first 1/4" or so of the brush. Very little poly, thin coats, the brush almost feels "dry" by the time I re-dip. I ended up using half as much poly as the can says to expect. The dryer brush near the end of each dip-brush cycle seems to be better at getting rid of the bubbles. Even though the slabs are hanging vertically, there are no runs :-) Also, I'm using the SLOWEST drying poly they offer - one coat per day. The fast drying stuff seems to not give the poly time to settle, time for the bubbles to pop, etc. It also seemed to run more, and the runs dried before they could flatten out. My coating schedule: two coats super fast drying sanding sealer (hey, I'm going to sand the bumps out anyway) to seal the pores. I almost sanded back down to wood, but this is red oak so there's plenty of sealer left in the pores. Next, two thin coats of slow-drying gloss poly (the first was today), followed by a coat of satin. If I need to, I'll do a 50/50 coat of satin, rubbed on, after that. |
#24
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How to Apply the Last Coat of Poly for a Dining Table Top?
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#25
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How to Apply the Last Coat of Poly for a Dining Table Top?
Sounds kinda like how I do floors... it takes forever.
I use a synthetic bristle brush and thin the poly to 50/50. the first coat is really sparse and is absorbed by most of the white oak, then apply another coat of 50% gloss poly / 50% thinner... starts to look better. Then sand with 400 grit paper, then put a final coat of about 30% poly /70% thinner on top. This leaves a pretty good finish, but it takes FOREVER to get rid of all the bubbles, and you've gotta use a very very strong flashlight and put your cheek on the floor to see them. |
#26
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How to Apply the Last Coat of Poly for a Dining Table Top?
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#27
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How to Apply the Last Coat of Poly for a Dining Table Top?
wrote in news:1166031265.407511.211760
@l12g2000cwl.googlegroups.com: wrote: Someone update this, I wanna know how it worked out! Take some pictures too! Not sure if you are addressing to me or to DJ Delorie. Anyway, I haven't applied the final coat of wipe-on-poly yet because I was waiting for DJ Delorie's reply on his method of rubbing wipe-on-poly. Well, I guess he is not going to reply, and I will have to use another method that I found in this newgroup, and I will do this in this evening: o Yesterday, I sanded the surface down very smooth to remove the dusts that landed on the coat of wipe-on-poly that I applied the other day. o This evening, I will run the air cleaner for one hour to remove all the dusts. Then, I will apply two thin coats of wipe-on-poly on the surface in quick succession. I plan on waiting for one hour between coats to let the poly to dry to touch before applying the second coat. I will _not_ sand between coats. After two coats, I will wait another hour and then use wipe-on-poly to touch up areas that are not shiny -- again, no sanding before applying wipe-on-poly to touch up. Hope this will finish this refinishing project that has been going on for one month. Jay Chan FWIW Jay. After you run the air cleaner, let the shop stay still for two days. This time will give the dust that was circulated by the air cleaner time to settle. Make certain that you use a tack cloth before the next coat. Hank |
#28
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How to Apply the Last Coat of Poly for a Dining Table Top?
Henry St.Pierre wrote:
wrote in news:1166031265.407511.211760 @l12g2000cwl.googlegroups.com: wrote: Someone update this, I wanna know how it worked out! Take some pictures too! Not sure if you are addressing to me or to DJ Delorie. Anyway, I haven't applied the final coat of wipe-on-poly yet because I was waiting for DJ Delorie's reply on his method of rubbing wipe-on-poly. Well, I guess he is not going to reply, and I will have to use another method that I found in this newgroup, and I will do this in this evening: o Yesterday, I sanded the surface down very smooth to remove the dusts that landed on the coat of wipe-on-poly that I applied the other day. o This evening, I will run the air cleaner for one hour to remove all the dusts. Then, I will apply two thin coats of wipe-on-poly on the surface in quick succession. I plan on waiting for one hour between coats to let the poly to dry to touch before applying the second coat. I will _not_ sand between coats. After two coats, I will wait another hour and then use wipe-on-poly to touch up areas that are not shiny -- again, no sanding before applying wipe-on-poly to touch up. Hope this will finish this refinishing project that has been going on for one month. Jay Chan FWIW Jay. After you run the air cleaner, let the shop stay still for two days. This time will give the dust that was circulated by the air cleaner time to settle. Make certain that you use a tack cloth before the next coat. Hank Sound like I started putting on the last coat too soon after I had run the air cleaner. And wipe-on-poly didn't dry that fast in the unheated basement. These two factors resulted with me having dusts on the wet wipe-on-poly. I will not correct this until X'mas is over and I can leave the poly some time to completely hardened (let's say one month). Then, I plan to light sand it and try rubbing finish. Hopefully, this will be good enough. But if I end up sanding through the three coats of thin wipe-on-poly, I may have to apply a thick coat of poly and wait another month and try rubbing finish again. Jay Chan |
#29
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How to Apply the Last Coat of Poly for a Dining Table Top?
On Mon, 18 Dec 2006 09:42:33 -0800, jaykchan wrote:
Henry St.Pierre wrote: wrote in news:1166031265.407511.211760 @l12g2000cwl.googlegroups.com: wrote: Someone update this, I wanna know how it worked out! Take some pictures too! Not sure if you are addressing to me or to DJ Delorie. Anyway, I haven't applied the final coat of wipe-on-poly yet because I was waiting for DJ Delorie's reply on his method of rubbing wipe-on-poly. Well, I guess he is not going to reply, and I will have to use another method that I found in this newgroup, and I will do this in this evening: o Yesterday, I sanded the surface down very smooth to remove the dusts that landed on the coat of wipe-on-poly that I applied the other day. o This evening, I will run the air cleaner for one hour to remove all the dusts. Then, I will apply two thin coats of wipe-on-poly on the surface in quick succession. I plan on waiting for one hour between coats to let the poly to dry to touch before applying the second coat. I will _not_ sand between coats. After two coats, I will wait another hour and then use wipe-on-poly to touch up areas that are not shiny -- again, no sanding before applying wipe-on-poly to touch up. Hope this will finish this refinishing project that has been going on for one month. Jay Chan FWIW Jay. After you run the air cleaner, let the shop stay still for two days. This time will give the dust that was circulated by the air cleaner time to settle. Make certain that you use a tack cloth before the next coat. Hank Sound like I started putting on the last coat too soon after I had run the air cleaner. And wipe-on-poly didn't dry that fast in the unheated basement. These two factors resulted with me having dusts on the wet wipe-on-poly. I will not correct this until X'mas is over and I can leave the poly some time to completely hardened (let's say one month). Then, I plan to light sand it and try rubbing finish. Hopefully, this will be good enough. But if I end up sanding through the three coats of thin wipe-on-poly, I may have to apply a thick coat of poly and wait another month and try rubbing finish again. I'm a little puzzled as to why you're having to put this much work into wipe-on polyurethane. Just sand smooth, wipe on, let set for the recommended time, repeat until you're happy with the finish. No elaborate dust-control measures needed. Sounds like wipe-on poly just isn't the right finish for you--spend the $125 for a gallon of precatalyzed lacquer and a Woodcraft HVLP gun. Dries hard enough to sand in 40 minutes or so, not enough time for it to pick up much dust, and you can sand and polish it as bright as you want. -- --John to email, dial "usenet" and validate (was jclarke at eye bee em dot net) |
#30
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How to Apply the Last Coat of Poly for a Dining Table Top?
J. Clarke wrote:
On Mon, 18 Dec 2006 09:42:33 -0800, jaykchan wrote: Henry St.Pierre wrote: wrote in news:1166031265.407511.211760 @l12g2000cwl.googlegroups.com: wrote: Someone update this, I wanna know how it worked out! Take some pictures too! Not sure if you are addressing to me or to DJ Delorie. Anyway, I haven't applied the final coat of wipe-on-poly yet because I was waiting for DJ Delorie's reply on his method of rubbing wipe-on-poly. Well, I guess he is not going to reply, and I will have to use another method that I found in this newgroup, and I will do this in this evening: o Yesterday, I sanded the surface down very smooth to remove the dusts that landed on the coat of wipe-on-poly that I applied the other day. o This evening, I will run the air cleaner for one hour to remove all the dusts. Then, I will apply two thin coats of wipe-on-poly on the surface in quick succession. I plan on waiting for one hour between coats to let the poly to dry to touch before applying the second coat. I will _not_ sand between coats. After two coats, I will wait another hour and then use wipe-on-poly to touch up areas that are not shiny -- again, no sanding before applying wipe-on-poly to touch up. Hope this will finish this refinishing project that has been going on for one month. Jay Chan FWIW Jay. After you run the air cleaner, let the shop stay still for two days. This time will give the dust that was circulated by the air cleaner time to settle. Make certain that you use a tack cloth before the next coat. Hank Sound like I started putting on the last coat too soon after I had run the air cleaner. And wipe-on-poly didn't dry that fast in the unheated basement. These two factors resulted with me having dusts on the wet wipe-on-poly. I will not correct this until X'mas is over and I can leave the poly some time to completely hardened (let's say one month). Then, I plan to light sand it and try rubbing finish. Hopefully, this will be good enough. But if I end up sanding through the three coats of thin wipe-on-poly, I may have to apply a thick coat of poly and wait another month and try rubbing finish again. I'm a little puzzled as to why you're having to put this much work into wipe-on polyurethane. Just sand smooth, wipe on, let set for the recommended time, repeat until you're happy with the finish. No elaborate dust-control measures needed. Sounds like wipe-on poly just isn't the right finish for you--spend the $125 for a gallon of precatalyzed lacquer and a Woodcraft HVLP gun. Dries hard enough to sand in 40 minutes or so, not enough time for it to pick up much dust, and you can sand and polish it as bright as you want. -- --John to email, dial "usenet" and validate (was jclarke at eye bee em dot net) I didn't see dusts in the air when I point a spot-light through the air before I applied the wipe-on-poly. I was quite surpised to see the amount of dusts that landed on the wet wipe-on-poly. My thinking is that my two sons running around and jumping around on the floor right above where the table was (it was in the basement) might have something to do with the amount of dusts ending up on the table surface -- I am not very sure. I also have the same feeling that wipe-on-poly is not the right finish for me. I am thinking of either using a brush-on-poly or a completely different finish (that I will put on top of the wipe-on-poly). Honestly, I am not going to buy or use a HVLP gun because I doubt that I will have much use of it in other projects. At this point, I am not sure what type of finish that I will put on top of the wipe-on-poly; but this is the direction that I likely will go. Jay Chan |
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