Woodworking (rec.woodworking) Discussion forum covering all aspects of working with wood. All levels of expertise are encouraged to particiapte.

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #1   Report Post  
Old February 19th 05, 08:49 PM
Corey
 
Posts: n/a
Default Sand after last poly coat?

I know to lightly sand between coats of poly. Do you also lightly sand
after the final coat - or is the final coat the final finsh?

Thanks



  #2   Report Post  
Old February 19th 05, 09:16 PM
Walt Cheever
 
Posts: n/a
Default

I use 0000 steel wool with Johnson's paste wax to give the wood a sensuous
feel.

Walt C


"Corey" wrote in message
news:[email protected]
I know to lightly sand between coats of poly. Do you also lightly sand
after the final coat - or is the final coat the final finsh?

Thanks




  #3   Report Post  
Old February 19th 05, 10:03 PM
George
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"Corey" wrote in message
news:[email protected]
I know to lightly sand between coats of poly. Do you also lightly sand
after the final coat - or is the final coat the final finsh?

Thanks

Don't have to. May not want to. Some people can't abide a shine, so they
degloss the surface. Some people, like turners, like the shine, so they
buff it.


  #4   Report Post  
Old February 21st 05, 05:37 PM
mac davis
 
Posts: n/a
Default

On Sat, 19 Feb 2005 20:16:33 GMT, "Walt Cheever" wrote:

I use 0000 steel wool with Johnson's paste wax to give the wood a sensuous
feel.

Walt C

That sounds border-line kinky, Walt..
you don't have red velvet tool holders, do you? *lmao*



mac

Please remove splinters before emailing
  #5   Report Post  
Old February 21st 05, 06:34 PM
Bob Schmall
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"mac davis" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 19 Feb 2005 20:16:33 GMT, "Walt Cheever" wrote:

I use 0000 steel wool with Johnson's paste wax to give the wood a sensuous
feel.

Walt C

That sounds border-line kinky, Walt..
you don't have red velvet tool holders, do you? *lmao*


Yep--and latte too.
The steel wool/wax treatment is real inspirational, and it smells sooooo
fine.

Bob




  #6   Report Post  
Old February 22nd 05, 03:16 AM
Bruce
 
Posts: n/a
Default

On Mon, 21 Feb 2005 10:34:30 -0700, Bob Schmall wrote
(in article ):


"mac davis" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 19 Feb 2005 20:16:33 GMT, "Walt Cheever" wrote:

I use 0000 steel wool with Johnson's paste wax to give the wood a sensuous
feel.

Walt C

That sounds border-line kinky, Walt..
you don't have red velvet tool holders, do you? *lmao*


Yep--and latte too.
The steel wool/wax treatment is real inspirational, and it smells sooooo
fine.

Bob



So let me get this straight..

I have always used 0000 steel wool _followed_ with some Johnson wax.
Are you using the wool _with_ the wax?

BTW, the wife always giggles when I show her my can of Johnson wax 8^)

-Bruce

  #7   Report Post  
Old February 22nd 05, 05:06 AM
GerryG
 
Posts: n/a
Default

There are two reasons for for sanding between coats. One is to improve
adhesion. The other is to level the surface as you build up the film.

Some poly's have a recoat period where sanding is not required. How much you
want to level the surface depends entirely on what you want to finish with.

And, that's exactly what you didn't say. IOW, what look do you want to end
with? For a low gloss finish without filled grain, I sand after the seal to
remove wood nibs, then just use a hand scraper between coats to cut any
imperfections. The final coat gives about a 1200 grit sheen and isn't touched.

Course, if you want to end up with something else, then you do something else.
For instance, to get filled grain and a 20000+ grit "piano" finish, I'd sand
to level between most coats, then rub out the final coat.

So, if what you end up with looks like what you want, leave it alone. If too
shiny, then sand it down. However, other noted steel wool. Fine on oil based
poly; not good on water base, even after dried. Pieces of iron will remain,
and unless fully cured (30 days) some water will remain, or you may want to
recoat in the future.

GerryG

On Sat, 19 Feb 2005 19:49:02 GMT, "Corey" wrote:

I know to lightly sand between coats of poly. Do you also lightly sand
after the final coat - or is the final coat the final finsh?

Thanks

  #8   Report Post  
Old February 22nd 05, 03:36 PM
Bob Schmall
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"Bruce" wrote in message ...
On Mon, 21 Feb 2005 10:34:30 -0700, Bob Schmall wrote
(in article ):


"mac davis" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 19 Feb 2005 20:16:33 GMT, "Walt Cheever"
wrote:

I use 0000 steel wool with Johnson's paste wax to give the wood a
sensuous
feel.

Walt C

That sounds border-line kinky, Walt..
you don't have red velvet tool holders, do you? *lmao*


Yep--and latte too.
The steel wool/wax treatment is real inspirational, and it smells sooooo
fine.

Bob



So let me get this straight..

I have always used 0000 steel wool _followed_ with some Johnson wax.
Are you using the wool _with_ the wax?

BTW, the wife always giggles when I show her my can of Johnson wax 8^)

-Bruce


1. The serious side: I use the 0000 alone, followed by paste wax applied
with 0000. You could use the wax applied with a soft cloth just as well.
2.The other side: I just did a mass mailing for a club. One of the
addressees lives on Short Johnson Road.

Bob



  #9   Report Post  
Old February 22nd 05, 06:54 PM
mac davis
 
Posts: n/a
Default

On Tue, 22 Feb 2005 04:06:21 GMT, GerryG wrote:

There are two reasons for for sanding between coats. One is to improve
adhesion. The other is to level the surface as you build up the film.

Some poly's have a recoat period where sanding is not required. How much you
want to level the surface depends entirely on what you want to finish with.

And, that's exactly what you didn't say. IOW, what look do you want to end
with? For a low gloss finish without filled grain, I sand after the seal to
remove wood nibs, then just use a hand scraper between coats to cut any
imperfections. The final coat gives about a 1200 grit sheen and isn't touched.

Course, if you want to end up with something else, then you do something else.
For instance, to get filled grain and a 20000+ grit "piano" finish, I'd sand
to level between most coats, then rub out the final coat.

So, if what you end up with looks like what you want, leave it alone. If too
shiny, then sand it down. However, other noted steel wool. Fine on oil based
poly; not good on water base, even after dried. Pieces of iron will remain,
and unless fully cured (30 days) some water will remain, or you may want to
recoat in the future.

GerryG

I don't use water based poly, but have been using "synthetic" steel wool, which
I really like..
Washable/reusable, not rust, no particles of steel left, etc...



mac

Please remove splinters before emailing


Reply
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules

Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Advice needed on putting poly on wood interior doors Shawn Home Repair 15 January 17th 05 06:26 AM
Plaster - bonding coat layers Pecanfan UK diy 11 November 2nd 04 10:19 PM
Oil Based Poly and Butcher Block Dan White Woodworking 2 October 27th 04 01:50 PM
Tips Needed on Plastering Bodysnatcher UK diy 7 August 10th 04 02:36 PM
' Help! Rough surface after poly coat!' Ron Magen Woodworking 0 October 1st 03 02:49 PM


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 08:50 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright 2004-2017 DIYbanter.
The comments are property of their posters.
 

About Us

"It's about DIY & home improvement"

 

Copyright © 2017