Is there a good way to take a kink out of a 1" wide bandsaw (resaw)
blade? Not sure how it got there, and the usual suspects aren't owning
up to anything, but it's got the expected results in the cut quality.
How do I fix this, or is it trash?

Dave Hinz

Dave Hinz wrote:
Is there a good way to take a kink out of a 1" wide bandsaw (resaw)
blade? Not sure how it got there, and the usual suspects aren't owning
up to anything, but it's got the expected results in the cut quality.
How do I fix this, or is it trash?

Dave Hinz



Cut out the kink and re-weld it? A small loss of length shouldn't matter
on most bandsaws...

Otherwise...

--
Will R.
Jewel Boxes and Wood Art
http://woodwork.pmccl.com
The power of accurate observation is commonly called cynicism by those
who have not got it.” George Bernard Shaw

In article , Dave Hinz
wrote:

Is there a good way to take a kink out of a 1" wide bandsaw (resaw)
blade? Not sure how it got there, and the usual suspects aren't owning
up to anything, but it's got the expected results in the cut quality.
How do I fix this, or is it trash?

Dave Hinz

If the radius of the kink isn't too sharp, beating it back with a few soft
strokes of a hammer will work. Hang the teeth over the edge of a flat 1" thick
piece of something hard.. like maple. That becomes your anvil. Now you have to
strike the kink across the whole width of the blade at once without striking the
teeth.
Put a socket, of approximately the same radius as the kink on the bumped out
side of the blade and gently hit it. Most bandsaw blade material isn't that
hard, comparatively speaking, in fact, I would try to bend it back by hand first.

As it is, it is worthless, no?

WillR wrote:
Dave Hinz wrote:

Is there a good way to take a kink out of a 1" wide bandsaw (resaw)
blade? Not sure how it got there, and the usual suspects aren't owning
up to anything, but it's got the expected results in the cut quality.
How do I fix this, or is it trash?

Dave Hinz



Cut out the kink and re-weld it? A small loss of length shouldn't matter
on most bandsaws...

Otherwise...

If it won't unkink by rolling it over a smaller radius roller than the
wheel, start bit then decrease according to what you have, make bowsaws.
Larry can tell you how.
Joe

On Fri, 16 Dec 2005 15:31:49 -0500, Joe Gorman wrote:

If it won't unkink by rolling it over a smaller radius roller than the
wheel,

Ah, I see what you're saying. Could even do that using the saw to
"hold" things in place, just attach a roller setup to the table.
(thinks) Oh damn, time on the lathe & mill.

start bit then decrease according to what you have, make bowsaws.

Ouch. Expensive bowsaws.

On Fri, 16 Dec 2005 15:29:43 -0500, Robatoy wrote:

If the radius of the kink isn't too sharp, beating it back with a few soft
strokes of a hammer will work. Hang the teeth over the edge of a flat 1" thick
piece of something hard.. like maple. That becomes your anvil. Now you have to
strike the kink across the whole width of the blade at once without striking the
teeth.

Big hits, or little hits? Blacksmith friend of mine if a big proponent
of "hit it many times a little bit", but I can't see that working.

Put a socket, of approximately the same radius as the kink on the bumped out
side of the blade and gently hit it.

Kind of like a bodywork dolly then?

Most bandsaw blade material isn't that
hard, comparatively speaking, in fact, I would try to bend it back by hand first.

As it is, it is worthless, no?

Well, it makes a very rough-sawn appearance to that which I resaw, so if
I were after that effect, I now know how to get it. But, yeah. Thanks!

Dave

Fri, Dec 16, 2005, 2:59pm (WillR) doth sayeth:
Cut out the kink and re-weld it? A small loss of length shouldn't matter
on most bandsaws...

Sounds reasonable anyway.

I've tried tapping out a kink in a bandsaw blade. It was better
than with the kink in it, but self-destructed very quickly anyway. I'd
say your best bet would be to snap it off in about 6" pieces, glue a
couple of pieces of wood on each side as handles, and make a whole bunch
of little saws. Or, you can grind them into "custom" carving knives, of
various shapes.



JOAT
A rolling stone gathers no moss...unless it's a hobby he does on the
weekends.

Dave Hinz wrote:
On Fri, 16 Dec 2005 15:29:43 -0500, Robatoy wrote:


If the radius of the kink isn't too sharp, beating it back with a few soft
strokes of a hammer will work. Hang the teeth over the edge of a flat 1" thick
piece of something hard.. like maple. That becomes your anvil. Now you have to
strike the kink across the whole width of the blade at once without striking the
teeth.


Big hits, or little hits? Blacksmith friend of mine if a big proponent
of "hit it many times a little bit", but I can't see that working.


Put a socket, of approximately the same radius as the kink on the bumped out
side of the blade and gently hit it.


Kind of like a bodywork dolly then?


Most bandsaw blade material isn't that
hard, comparatively speaking, in fact, I would try to bend it back by hand first.


As it is, it is worthless, no?


Well, it makes a very rough-sawn appearance to that which I resaw, so if
I were after that effect, I now know how to get it. But, yeah. Thanks!

Dave



As someone pointed out it should self-destruct shortly thereafter anyway
if you bend it back.

Hammering will change the structure (temper) of the metal. So...




--
Will R.
Jewel Boxes and Wood Art
http://woodwork.pmccl.com
The power of accurate observation is commonly called cynicism by those
who have not got it.” George Bernard Shaw

In article , Dave Hinz
wrote:

Kind of like a bodywork dolly then?

That would work. Small hits, many times...yup. I hope it works for you.

In article ,
WillR wrote:

As someone pointed out it should self-destruct shortly thereafter anyway
if you bend it back.

Hammering will change the structure (temper) of the metal. So...

That all depends on how much it is kinked... and the 'hammering' I'm talking
about is more like 'coaxing'... think jewellery as opposed to Clydesdale
horseshoe. Circumcision vs pork chops.

If the kink is 'creased' cutting out the crease and re-welding would be the
ticket.

"WillR" wrote in message
.. .
As someone pointed out it should self-destruct shortly thereafter anyway
if you bend it back.

Hammering will change the structure (temper) of the metal. So...


That's the clincher. You make the area more brittle by hammering. If it's
a tight kink, reuse the blade for something else. If it's a gentle one, the
rolling may give you a few more hours.

On Fri, 16 Dec 2005 16:53:57 -0500, Robatoy wrote:
In article , Dave Hinz
wrote:

Kind of like a bodywork dolly then?

That would work. Small hits, many times...yup. I hope it works for you.

I'll see if I can finesse it. But, to be honest, the idea of that
hella-big blade (for my standards) coming unglued during use gives me
the willies.

On Fri, 16 Dec 2005 17:03:32 -0500, Robatoy wrote:
In article ,
WillR wrote:

As someone pointed out it should self-destruct shortly thereafter anyway
if you bend it back.

Hammering will change the structure (temper) of the metal. So...

That all depends on how much it is kinked... and the 'hammering' I'm talking
about is more like 'coaxing'... think jewellery as opposed to Clydesdale
horseshoe.

Gotcha.

Circumcision vs pork chops.

Um.

If the kink is 'creased' cutting out the crease and re-welding would be the
ticket.

I'll know as soon as I take a good look at it, probably tonight. If
it's particularly interesting and/or I'm bored, I'll take pics and write
something up to post on a website.

On 16-Dec-2005, "George" George@least wrote:

That's the clincher. You make the area more brittle by hammering.

Try heating it first. That will avoid some work hardening at the expense of losing
some overall hardness on the teeth. You could heat and quench it after straightening
it to try to recover the hardness.

Mike

I picked up one of them King band saws. I am absolutely blown away by
how much saw I got for the money.

I'm a total newbie when it comes to artsy-fartsy band saws so I decided
to get one to play with.... an early Christmas present from me to me.
I'm learning about blades and stuff now.

I can clearly see how one could get swept up in those things as a hobby
toy/tool.

Fun!

I wouldn't try and reuse it even after you get the kink out. The kink
will have weakened the blade and the blade will fail right where the
kink is.

You could cut and reweld at the kink, but how good are your welding
skills? If you overheat the blade and the weld point you will alter
the temper of the blade and it will break at that point too.

Like someone suggested you could salvage what you have, cut it to
length, drill holes and use it on a bowsaw or hacksaw.

Layne

On 16 Dec 2005 19:49:07 GMT, Dave Hinz wrote:

Is there a good way to take a kink out of a 1" wide bandsaw (resaw)
blade? Not sure how it got there, and the usual suspects aren't owning
up to anything, but it's got the expected results in the cut quality.
How do I fix this, or is it trash?

Dave Hinz

Robatoy wrote:
I picked up one of them King band saws. I am absolutely blown away by
how much saw I got for the money.

I'm a total newbie when it comes to artsy-fartsy band saws so I decided
to get one to play with.... an early Christmas present from me to me.
I'm learning about blades and stuff now.

I can clearly see how one could get swept up in those things as a hobby
toy/tool.

Fun!


Which one did you get?

I got the 1433FX -- just wish I had time to get it running -- maybe this
weekend or Christmas day I will be allowed to play wit it instead of
this %$**%#@ renovating.

http://www.kingcanada.com/Products.htm?CD=104

http://www.kingcanada.com/Products.htm?CD=13


I added the riser block for resaw work.

--
Will R.
Jewel Boxes and Wood Art
http://woodwork.pmccl.com
The power of accurate observation is commonly called cynicism by those
who have not got it.” George Bernard Shaw

In article ,
WillR wrote:

Which one did you get?

I got the kiddy one... the KC1401HD... $ 389.00 Can.
It should tell me enough about whether or not I want a real one some day.
I am aware that this isn't first class.
I can't even get my head around them SHIPPING it for less that 400
bucks.... no wonder Delta et al are getting the **** kicked out of them.

I never had a lathe either, but I think one should really start off with
something half decent when venturing into that hobby. I don't think I'll
ever go there.
I have nothing but the greatest admiration for some of those art pieces
I have seen over the years.

The other wood related hobby that fascinates me is marquetry. You don't
need a lot of expensive gear to get going in that. (Using a CNC would be
cheating? G) Just an expensive inventory of veneers, I suppose. But
how am I to take a hobby seriously when they use words like purfeling?

Robatoy wrote:
In article ,
WillR wrote:


Which one did you get?


I got the kiddy one... the KC1401HD... $ 389.00 Can.
It should tell me enough about whether or not I want a real one some day.
I am aware that this isn't first class.
I can't even get my head around them SHIPPING it for less that 400
bucks.... no wonder Delta et al are getting the **** kicked out of them.

It's a good saw -- I just needed the extra power for re-saw -- so the
1433FX was it.


I never had a lathe either, but I think one should really start off with
something half decent when venturing into that hobby. I don't think I'll
ever go there.

I have the King Midi-lathe -- it is quite decent.

I have nothing but the greatest admiration for some of those art pieces
I have seen over the years.


Well try it!!!!

The other wood related hobby that fascinates me is marquetry. You don't
need a lot of expensive gear to get going in that. (Using a CNC would be
cheating? G) Just an expensive inventory of veneers, I suppose. But
how am I to take a hobby seriously when they use words like purfeling?


Go for it.
http://marquetrysociety.ca/

My next jewel box will have a scene or design on the lid. It's fun stuff.


--
Will R.
Jewel Boxes and Wood Art
http://woodwork.pmccl.com
The power of accurate observation is commonly called cynicism by those
who have not got it.” George Bernard Shaw

Layne wrote:

You could cut and reweld at the kink, but how good are your welding
skills? If you overheat the blade and the weld point you will alter
the temper of the blade and it will break at that point too.


Lee Valley has a silver soldering kit for bandsaw blades. I don't own
one but I have been thinking about getting one. Anybody own one and used
it care to comment on its worthwhileness?

-jj

--
Remove BOB to email me

On 16 Dec 2005 19:49:07 GMT, Dave Hinz wrote:

Is there a good way to take a kink out of a 1" wide bandsaw (resaw)
blade? Not sure how it got there, and the usual suspects aren't owning
up to anything, but it's got the expected results in the cut quality.
How do I fix this, or is it trash?

Dave Hinz

Dave.. just MHO, but my average cost at the saw shop is about $15 a blade,
depending on size... and I wouldn't bother trying to fix a kinked blade for
$15...

Like the ad should say...

Bandsaw blade ..... $15

Fingers and eyes.. priceless


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Mon, 19 Dec 2005 09:08:21 -0800, mac davis
wrote:

I wouldn't bother trying to fix a kinked blade for $15...

I kinked one at the weekend.

I was roughing out bowl blanks for turning and the green hornbeam was
being particularly troublesome and grabby, so I was sawing off a series
of triangle with straight cuts, not trying to force a big blade around a
tight radius. I didn't realise there was a triangular offcut lying on
the table underneath the bowl until the blade caught it. It grabbed the
wedge-shaped offcut and rammed it down into the throatplate, jamming the
whole saw solid. The Tufnol throatplate smashed in two and the 1/2"
blade managed to kink front-to-back (yes, edge-on) as well as sideways.

I don't think there's any way to de-kink that one.
..

On Mon, 19 Dec 2005 20:12:46 +0000, Andy Dingley wrote:

On Mon, 19 Dec 2005 09:08:21 -0800, mac davis
wrote:

I wouldn't bother trying to fix a kinked blade for $15...

I kinked one at the weekend.

I was roughing out bowl blanks for turning and the green hornbeam was
being particularly troublesome and grabby, so I was sawing off a series
of triangle with straight cuts, not trying to force a big blade around a
tight radius. I didn't realise there was a triangular offcut lying on
the table underneath the bowl until the blade caught it. It grabbed the
wedge-shaped offcut and rammed it down into the throatplate, jamming the
whole saw solid. The Tufnol throatplate smashed in two and the 1/2"
blade managed to kink front-to-back (yes, edge-on) as well as sideways.

I don't think there's any way to de-kink that one.
.
wow! I'm just glad that you didn't get hurt when it jammed!!

I was cutting some ash blanks this morning and it was scarey when you cut the
circle and the bottom face of the blank is a lot smaller than the top face, and
you can see naked blade between the wood and table..
Just waiting for it to try to push the edge of the blank against the table and
jam up, but got lucky and cut 4 blanks with no drama..
(no drama, no trauma!)



mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

"mac davis" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 19 Dec 2005 20:12:46 +0000, Andy Dingley
wrote:

On Mon, 19 Dec 2005 09:08:21 -0800, mac davis
wrote:

I wouldn't bother trying to fix a kinked blade for $15...

I kinked one at the weekend.

I was roughing out bowl blanks for turning and the green hornbeam was
being particularly troublesome and grabby, so I was sawing off a series
of triangle with straight cuts, not trying to force a big blade around a
tight radius. I didn't realise there was a triangular offcut lying on
the table underneath the bowl until the blade caught it. It grabbed the
wedge-shaped offcut and rammed it down into the throatplate, jamming the
whole saw solid. The Tufnol throatplate smashed in two and the 1/2"
blade managed to kink front-to-back (yes, edge-on) as well as sideways.

I don't think there's any way to de-kink that one.
.
wow! I'm just glad that you didn't get hurt when it jammed!!

I was cutting some ash blanks this morning and it was scarey when you cut
the
circle and the bottom face of the blank is a lot smaller than the top
face, and
you can see naked blade between the wood and table..
Just waiting for it to try to push the edge of the blank against the table
and
jam up, but got lucky and cut 4 blanks with no drama..
(no drama, no trauma!)

Get smart and control the piece with a center pin. Luck has nothing to do
with it when using a circle jig.

On Tue, 20 Dec 2005 10:31:00 -0800, mac davis
wrote:

I was cutting some ash blanks this morning and it was scarey when you cut the
circle and the bottom face of the blank is a lot smaller than the top face, and
you can see naked blade between the wood and table..

It's not the naked blade that worries me about that, it's the lack of
support across the narrow base. It'll tip, and that's a great way to jam
a blade and kink it.

A bracket or false table to support a pin from beneath is a much quicker
and safer way to guide a blank flat-side down. Failing that, attach a
wire guide from the top of the saw and mark out the centre on both sides
of the bowl. They're only blanks - accuracy doesn't have to be that
close until you're turning them.

On Tue, 20 Dec 2005 23:34:52 +0000, Andy Dingley wrote:

On Tue, 20 Dec 2005 10:31:00 -0800, mac davis
wrote:

I was cutting some ash blanks this morning and it was scarey when you cut the
circle and the bottom face of the blank is a lot smaller than the top face, and
you can see naked blade between the wood and table..

It's not the naked blade that worries me about that, it's the lack of
support across the narrow base. It'll tip, and that's a great way to jam
a blade and kink it.

yeah.. that's the point I was trying to get across... as usual, you hit it spot
on, Andy..

A bracket or false table to support a pin from beneath is a much quicker
and safer way to guide a blank flat-side down. Failing that, attach a
wire guide from the top of the saw and mark out the centre on both sides
of the bowl. They're only blanks - accuracy doesn't have to be that
close until you're turning them.

I have a couple of different setups, the one I usually use is an expanding ring
clamp like I used to use for finishing bowl bottoms..
These blanks were both larger diameter and thicker than I normally cut... (about
15" rounds), and wouldn't fit any of my present jigs..

Accuracy gets pretty important for me on these blanks, Andy... they're wet wood
that when trimmed will JUST fit on my 1442, and I need to eliminate as much
wobble and shake as I can before they're spinning..

The pin to allow the wider face of the blank sounds like a winner.. got any
pictures or links to them??


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Wed, 21 Dec 2005 10:45:14 -0800, mac davis
wrote:

when trimmed will JUST fit on my 1442,

So there's your excuse for a bigger lathe 8-)

The pin to allow the wider face of the blank sounds like a winner.. got any
pictures or links to them??

Any reference on bandsaw gadgets ought to describe them. They're usually
a design specific to that particular bandsaw design.

Mine is just a thin sheet of metal with a 1/4" pin above it and a few
holes to bolt it down. I use short machine screws into T nuts in the
mitre gauge slot. Using a spiral of holes lets me screw it down for a
number of different radii. Obviously the pin needs to be aligned with
the front of the blade, but this is just a matter of where I clamp it.

There's also a more complicated design where the pin can slide from the
front of the table back to a stop level with the blade. This lets you
put a blank on, then saw stragith down to the circle diameter. It's an
easier jig though if you fix the pin and just saw the blank first along
a tangent.