I picked up a cheap face shield at Woodcraft, only to find that the
plastic shield is so poor that I can barely see through it. It's so bad that
I have a hard time telling exactly when / where the tool is contacting the
wood. Any recommendations on a good face shield that one can actually see
through. Thanks. Dan

"Dan Williams" wrote in message
...
I picked up a cheap face shield at Woodcraft, only to find that the
plastic shield is so poor that I can barely see through it. It's so bad
that I have a hard time telling exactly when / where the tool is
contacting the wood. Any recommendations on a good face shield that one
can actually see through. Thanks. Dan

I use an AOS that I got from Lee Valley. They also sell replacement shields
for the headband. After a while they shields get marked, scratched and
gunked up and get harder to see through. I have often wondered about trying
to polish the scratches out of mine with my buffing system.
Billh

"Dan Williams" wrote in message
...
I picked up a cheap face shield at Woodcraft, only to find that the
plastic shield is so poor that I can barely see through it. It's so bad
that I have a hard time telling exactly when / where the tool is
contacting the wood. Any recommendations on a good face shield that one
can actually see through. Thanks. Dan
==========================
Dan,
Some faceshields come from the factory with a protective film on it to
prevent scratching in shipment. Take a close look at yours to see if it has
a Saran wrap type plastic cover on it. If so, take it off and you'll see a
vast difference. You can also use layers of plastic wrap as a "tear-off"
when turning wet pieces to keep sap off the shield.

Ken Moon
Webberville, TX

"billh" wrote in message

I have often wondered about trying
to polish the scratches out of mine with my buffing system.

Mequiars makes two polishes for plastics, #17 and #10. Can't recall which
is which, but one will remove fairly superficial scratches and the other
polishes the surface to a nice optical level.

Max

Dan, go to your favorite welding supply shop (where they also sell bottled
welding gas) and select the head gear and face shield you want. Should be
in the range of $20. Suggest you pick the longest face shield they have and
also pick one that is .060" thick (probably all they have there). After a
couple of years, when the face shield is too gunked up to see through, go
back and by a replacement face shield, generally $10. Also, along the
line, when the face shield gets dirty from green wood sap and other "stuff"
take the shield off the head band, put it in the kitchen sink with dish
washing soap and water and clean it up. Dry with a dish towel and you are
back in business. Acetone will remove CA glue spatters.
"Dan Williams" wrote in message
...
I picked up a cheap face shield at Woodcraft, only to find that the
plastic shield is so poor that I can barely see through it. It's so bad
that I have a hard time telling exactly when / where the tool is
contacting the wood. Any recommendations on a good face shield that one
can actually see through. Thanks. Dan

Sounds like something I did. There is a protective cover over the shield
and I will bet it hasn't been removed. I bought one and thought the same
thing you did until I took a real close look and found that overlay. Hope
this is your problem as it is easy to fix.....Ralph
"Dan Williams" wrote in message
...
I picked up a cheap face shield at Woodcraft, only to find that the
plastic shield is so poor that I can barely see through it. It's so bad
that
I have a hard time telling exactly when / where the tool is contacting the
wood. Any recommendations on a good face shield that one can actually see
through. Thanks. Dan

Duh.... yeah that was it. Another case of failing to see that which is
"right in front of your face".
Thanks - Dan
"Ralph J. Ramirez" wrote in message
news:sfGvd.756564$8_6.238612@attbi_s04...
Sounds like something I did. There is a protective cover over the shield
and I will bet it hasn't been removed. I bought one and thought the same
thing you did until I took a real close look and found that overlay. Hope
this is your problem as it is easy to fix.....Ralph
"Dan Williams" wrote in message
...
I picked up a cheap face shield at Woodcraft, only to find that the
plastic shield is so poor that I can barely see through it. It's so bad
that
I have a hard time telling exactly when / where the tool is contacting
the
wood. Any recommendations on a good face shield that one can actually see
through. Thanks. Dan

Don't feel bad. My wife complained about the face of her cell phone being
unreadable for months before I went to use it - and removed the protective
plastic.

"Dan Williams" wrote in message
...
Duh.... yeah that was it. Another case of failing to see that which is
"right in front of your face".
Thanks - Dan
"Ralph J. Ramirez" wrote in message
news:sfGvd.756564$8_6.238612@attbi_s04...
Sounds like something I did. There is a protective cover over the
shield
and I will bet it hasn't been removed. I bought one and thought the
same
thing you did until I took a real close look and found that overlay.
Hope
this is your problem as it is easy to fix.....Ralph
"Dan Williams" wrote in message

Dan Williams wrote:
I picked up a cheap face shield at Woodcraft, only to find that the
plastic shield is so poor that I can barely see through it. It's so
bad that
I have a hard time telling exactly when / where the tool is
contacting the
wood. Any recommendations on a good face shield that one can actually
see
through. Thanks. Dan

Has anyone ever tried a wire mesh face shield, they sell them in place
of the plastic ones. I thought it might be easier to keep things from
fogging up, more impact resistant also.
Scott

In article .com,
"tall_corn" wrote:
Has anyone ever tried a wire mesh face shield, they sell them in place
of the plastic ones. I thought it might be easier to keep things from
fogging up, more impact resistant also.

They work pretty well for chainsawing, where fogging is a major problem.
Never tried it in the shop.

--
Cats, Coffee, Chocolate...vices to live by

You mean that you only would need to remove the thin and small slivers
out of your eyes ??

tall_corn wrote:
Dan Williams wrote:

I picked up a cheap face shield at Woodcraft, only to find that the
plastic shield is so poor that I can barely see through it. It's so

bad that

I have a hard time telling exactly when / where the tool is

contacting the

wood. Any recommendations on a good face shield that one can actually

see

through. Thanks. Dan


Has anyone ever tried a wire mesh face shield, they sell them in place
of the plastic ones. I thought it might be easier to keep things from
fogging up, more impact resistant also.
Scott

On Wed, 15 Dec 2004 17:11:44 -0500, Leo Van Der Loo
wrote:

no, the one where you also get to pick the chips out of your mouth,
nose and eyebrows..

You mean that you only would need to remove the thin and small slivers
out of your eyes ??

tall_corn wrote:
Dan Williams wrote:

I picked up a cheap face shield at Woodcraft, only to find that the
plastic shield is so poor that I can barely see through it. It's so

bad that

I have a hard time telling exactly when / where the tool is

contacting the

wood. Any recommendations on a good face shield that one can actually

see

through. Thanks. Dan


Has anyone ever tried a wire mesh face shield, they sell them in place
of the plastic ones. I thought it might be easier to keep things from
fogging up, more impact resistant also.
Scott

Don't stand in the throw zone, or hack the wood and throw splinters, and
it's all moot.

"Leo Van Der Loo" wrote in message
news
You mean that you only would need to remove the thin and small slivers
out of your eyes ??



Has anyone ever tried a wire mesh face shield, they sell them in place
of the plastic ones. I thought it might be easier to keep things from
fogging up, more impact resistant also.
Scott

On Thu, 16 Dec 2004 06:26:08 -0500, "George" george@least wrote:

very true, George.. don't have accidents, and you save a lot of bucks
on safety equipment..
no use wearing seat belts, either..

Don't stand in the throw zone, or hack the wood and throw splinters, and
it's all moot.

"Leo Van Der Loo" wrote in message
news
You mean that you only would need to remove the thin and small slivers
out of your eyes ??



Has anyone ever tried a wire mesh face shield, they sell them in place
of the plastic ones. I thought it might be easier to keep things from
fogging up, more impact resistant also.
Scott

Poor analogy, really. If there is a way to avoid problems - for example
standing out of the throw zone and cutting the wood gently so the shavings
fall, not fly, why not take them? A better driving analogy would be
staying in your own lane to avoid head-on collisions and not speeding on
snow, to avoid loss of control.

Then there are the other benefits of low-pressure cutting, like fair curves,
no tear-out, minimal sanding and no tendonitis, just to name a few. It's
worth striving for, no matter how you like to armor yourself.

I would, however, recommend covering cast iron tools located in the sap
throw path.


"mac davis" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 16 Dec 2004 06:26:08 -0500, "George" george@least wrote:

very true, George.. don't have accidents, and you save a lot of bucks
on safety equipment..
no use wearing seat belts, either..

Don't stand in the throw zone, or hack the wood and throw splinters, and
it's all moot.

My query may not be exactly as per this thread.
The biggest problem I have with wearing a face shield is fog. After a few
minutes of wearing the shield it starts to fog up. I have used dish soap
and the like but still have fog. In order to minimize the condensation from
accumulating inside the shield I lift the bottom of the shield up a little.
It helps but not all that well.
Recently I have read about the new "UVEX Bionic Shield - Clear Lens -
Anti-fog/Hardcoat".
Its priced at about $45.00/$50.00. I wonder if anyone has used it yet.

"George" george@least wrote in message
...
Poor analogy, really. If there is a way to avoid problems - for example
standing out of the throw zone and cutting the wood gently so the shavings
fall, not fly, why not take them? A better driving analogy would be
staying in your own lane to avoid head-on collisions and not speeding on
snow, to avoid loss of control.

Then there are the other benefits of low-pressure cutting, like fair
curves,
no tear-out, minimal sanding and no tendonitis, just to name a few. It's
worth striving for, no matter how you like to armor yourself.

I would, however, recommend covering cast iron tools located in the sap
throw path.


"mac davis" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 16 Dec 2004 06:26:08 -0500, "George" george@least wrote:

very true, George.. don't have accidents, and you save a lot of bucks
on safety equipment..
no use wearing seat belts, either..

Don't stand in the throw zone, or hack the wood and throw splinters,
and
it's all moot.

On Thu, 16 Dec 2004 16:32:20 -0500, "George" george@least wrote:

Poor analogy, really. If there is a way to avoid problems - for example
standing out of the throw zone and cutting the wood gently so the shavings
fall, not fly, why not take them? A better driving analogy would be
staying in your own lane to avoid head-on collisions and not speeding on
snow, to avoid loss of control.

Then there are the other benefits of low-pressure cutting, like fair curves,
no tear-out, minimal sanding and no tendonitis, just to name a few. It's
worth striving for, no matter how you like to armor yourself.

I would, however, recommend covering cast iron tools located in the sap
throw path.

I realize that, George, but folks should wear safety stuff when
they're operating machinery...
I don't put mine on very often, though I know that I should... even if
I don't make a mistake, the tool can screw up and throw a part..

Hell, a friend of my brothers spent 1/2 a day in emergency, getting
slivers picked out, when his partner turned on a saw or something that
had a coffee cup sitting on it..


"mac davis" wrote in message
.. .
On Thu, 16 Dec 2004 06:26:08 -0500, "George" george@least wrote:

very true, George.. don't have accidents, and you save a lot of bucks
on safety equipment..
no use wearing seat belts, either..

Don't stand in the throw zone, or hack the wood and throw splinters, and
it's all moot.

On Thu, 16 Dec 2004 23:20:49 GMT, "Denis Marier"
wrote:

Rainex anti-fog
I haven't tried it on a face mask, but everything else I've used it
on, including bathroom mirrors in winter, have stayed fog free..

My query may not be exactly as per this thread.
The biggest problem I have with wearing a face shield is fog. After a few
minutes of wearing the shield it starts to fog up. I have used dish soap
and the like but still have fog. In order to minimize the condensation from
accumulating inside the shield I lift the bottom of the shield up a little.
It helps but not all that well.
Recently I have read about the new "UVEX Bionic Shield - Clear Lens -
Anti-fog/Hardcoat".
Its priced at about $45.00/$50.00. I wonder if anyone has used it yet.

"George" george@least wrote in message
...
Poor analogy, really. If there is a way to avoid problems - for example
standing out of the throw zone and cutting the wood gently so the shavings
fall, not fly, why not take them? A better driving analogy would be
staying in your own lane to avoid head-on collisions and not speeding on
snow, to avoid loss of control.

Then there are the other benefits of low-pressure cutting, like fair
curves,
no tear-out, minimal sanding and no tendonitis, just to name a few. It's
worth striving for, no matter how you like to armor yourself.

I would, however, recommend covering cast iron tools located in the sap
throw path.


"mac davis" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 16 Dec 2004 06:26:08 -0500, "George" george@least wrote:

very true, George.. don't have accidents, and you save a lot of bucks
on safety equipment..
no use wearing seat belts, either..

Don't stand in the throw zone, or hack the wood and throw splinters,
and
it's all moot.

Hi Mac,

Hi Mac,

I do not know where you live. By the sound of it you may reside in a low
humidity and warm area. That may explain the absent of condensation inside
your shield? Conversely the situation is different in North Eastern coastal
area.

"mac davis" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 16 Dec 2004 23:20:49 GMT, "Denis Marier"
wrote:

Rainex anti-fog
I haven't tried it on a face mask, but everything else I've used it
on, including bathroom mirrors in winter, have stayed fog free..

My query may not be exactly as per this thread.
The biggest problem I have with wearing a face shield is fog. After a
few
minutes of wearing the shield it starts to fog up. I have used dish soap
and the like but still have fog. In order to minimize the condensation
from
accumulating inside the shield I lift the bottom of the shield up a
little.
It helps but not all that well.
Recently I have read about the new "UVEX Bionic Shield - Clear Lens -
Anti-fog/Hardcoat".
Its priced at about $45.00/$50.00. I wonder if anyone has used it yet.

"George" george@least wrote in message
...
Poor analogy, really. If there is a way to avoid problems - for
example
standing out of the throw zone and cutting the wood gently so the
shavings
fall, not fly, why not take them? A better driving analogy would be
staying in your own lane to avoid head-on collisions and not speeding
on
snow, to avoid loss of control.

Then there are the other benefits of low-pressure cutting, like fair
curves,
no tear-out, minimal sanding and no tendonitis, just to name a few.
It's
worth striving for, no matter how you like to armor yourself.

I would, however, recommend covering cast iron tools located in the sap
throw path.


"mac davis" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 16 Dec 2004 06:26:08 -0500, "George" george@least wrote:

very true, George.. don't have accidents, and you save a lot of bucks
on safety equipment..
no use wearing seat belts, either..

Don't stand in the throw zone, or hack the wood and throw splinters,
and
it's all moot.

On Fri, 17 Dec 2004 01:08:25 GMT, "Denis Marier"
wrote:

Hi Mac,

Hi Mac,

I do not know where you live. By the sound of it you may reside in a low
humidity and warm area. That may explain the absent of condensation inside
your shield? Conversely the situation is different in North Eastern coastal
area.

no, Dennis.. I didn't say condensation wasn't a problem. I just said
that I haven't tried the rainx no-fog on a face shield, so I didn't
know if it would work..

right now it's "winter" in Central CA.... about 42 degrees at midnight
and 96% humidity... foggy as hell but no rain...

"mac davis" wrote in message
.. .
On Thu, 16 Dec 2004 23:20:49 GMT, "Denis Marier"
wrote:

Rainex anti-fog
I haven't tried it on a face mask, but everything else I've used it
on, including bathroom mirrors in winter, have stayed fog free..

My query may not be exactly as per this thread.
The biggest problem I have with wearing a face shield is fog. After a
few
minutes of wearing the shield it starts to fog up. I have used dish soap
and the like but still have fog. In order to minimize the condensation
from
accumulating inside the shield I lift the bottom of the shield up a
little.
It helps but not all that well.
Recently I have read about the new "UVEX Bionic Shield - Clear Lens -
Anti-fog/Hardcoat".
Its priced at about $45.00/$50.00. I wonder if anyone has used it yet.

"George" george@least wrote in message
...
Poor analogy, really. If there is a way to avoid problems - for
example
standing out of the throw zone and cutting the wood gently so the
shavings
fall, not fly, why not take them? A better driving analogy would be
staying in your own lane to avoid head-on collisions and not speeding
on
snow, to avoid loss of control.

Then there are the other benefits of low-pressure cutting, like fair
curves,
no tear-out, minimal sanding and no tendonitis, just to name a few.
It's
worth striving for, no matter how you like to armor yourself.

I would, however, recommend covering cast iron tools located in the sap
throw path.


"mac davis" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 16 Dec 2004 06:26:08 -0500, "George" george@least wrote:

very true, George.. don't have accidents, and you save a lot of bucks
on safety equipment..
no use wearing seat belts, either..

Don't stand in the throw zone, or hack the wood and throw splinters,
and
it's all moot.

Sorry Mac, I got side tracked. I am getting a little old and I just got my
B12 shot.
I saw the new "UVEX Bionic Shield - Clear Lens - on the internet. It looks
good but I do not know if its working and if its worth the money they are
asking. When I read Rainex anti-fog it reflected another image in my mind.
I did used dish washing soap on my shield and wiped it dry. It works a
little but only for a short time. Have a good day.

"mac davis" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 17 Dec 2004 01:08:25 GMT, "Denis Marier"
wrote:

Hi Mac,

Hi Mac,

I do not know where you live. By the sound of it you may reside in a low
humidity and warm area. That may explain the absent of condensation
inside
your shield? Conversely the situation is different in North Eastern
coastal
area.

no, Dennis.. I didn't say condensation wasn't a problem. I just said
that I haven't tried the rainx no-fog on a face shield, so I didn't
know if it would work..

right now it's "winter" in Central CA.... about 42 degrees at midnight
and 96% humidity... foggy as hell but no rain...

"mac davis" wrote in message
.. .
On Thu, 16 Dec 2004 23:20:49 GMT, "Denis Marier"
wrote:

Rainex anti-fog
I haven't tried it on a face mask, but everything else I've used it
on, including bathroom mirrors in winter, have stayed fog free..

My query may not be exactly as per this thread.
The biggest problem I have with wearing a face shield is fog. After a
few
minutes of wearing the shield it starts to fog up. I have used dish
soap
and the like but still have fog. In order to minimize the
condensation
from
accumulating inside the shield I lift the bottom of the shield up a
little.
It helps but not all that well.
Recently I have read about the new "UVEX Bionic Shield - Clear Lens -
Anti-fog/Hardcoat".
Its priced at about $45.00/$50.00. I wonder if anyone has used it
yet.

"George" george@least wrote in message
...
Poor analogy, really. If there is a way to avoid problems - for
example
standing out of the throw zone and cutting the wood gently so the
shavings
fall, not fly, why not take them? A better driving analogy would
be
staying in your own lane to avoid head-on collisions and not
speeding
on
snow, to avoid loss of control.

Then there are the other benefits of low-pressure cutting, like fair
curves,
no tear-out, minimal sanding and no tendonitis, just to name a few.
It's
worth striving for, no matter how you like to armor yourself.

I would, however, recommend covering cast iron tools located in the
sap
throw path.


"mac davis" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 16 Dec 2004 06:26:08 -0500, "George" george@least wrote:

very true, George.. don't have accidents, and you save a lot of
bucks
on safety equipment..
no use wearing seat belts, either..

Don't stand in the throw zone, or hack the wood and throw
splinters,
and
it's all moot.

"Denis Marier" wrote in message
...
My query may not be exactly as per this thread.
The biggest problem I have with wearing a face shield is fog. After a few
minutes of wearing the shield it starts to fog up. I have used dish soap
and the like but still have fog. In order to minimize the condensation
from
accumulating inside the shield I lift the bottom of the shield up a
little.
It helps but not all that well.

On most shield types I've used, the visor is vented up top, it's up to the
wearer to provide air flow from the bottom, which means keeping it at a tilt
which does not close the flow. Logger masks have glasses above, mesh below,
but they are heavier. Check and see if you might not be able to wear the
band of the visor at a bit of a tilt if yours is one where the shield blocks
flow at certain angles. Remember that you put your chin down into your
chest and huff and puff harder when concentrating, so the angle you use at
ease may not be best when working up close.

You might even think of adding extra ventilation up top if it won't weaken
the visor. I've moved my visor to other places, because I don't stand in
risky places or with risky gouge angles any more. When a piece of bark
flies, I'm nowhere near it, and my glasses stay dry even when the sap hits
the opposite wall 12 feet away.

Antistatic sprays and wipes are pretty effective at beading moisture, too.

Hi George,

At time, I am tempted to drill holes (similar to a salt shaker) through the
shield where my mouth is. This may facilitate the warm air to exhaust. Or
it may make the situation worse?

"George" george@least wrote in message
...
"Denis Marier" wrote in message
...
My query may not be exactly as per this thread.
The biggest problem I have with wearing a face shield is fog. After a
few
minutes of wearing the shield it starts to fog up. I have used dish
soap
and the like but still have fog. In order to minimize the condensation
from
accumulating inside the shield I lift the bottom of the shield up a
little.
It helps but not all that well.

On most shield types I've used, the visor is vented up top, it's up to the
wearer to provide air flow from the bottom, which means keeping it at a
tilt
which does not close the flow. Logger masks have glasses above, mesh
below,
but they are heavier. Check and see if you might not be able to wear the
band of the visor at a bit of a tilt if yours is one where the shield
blocks
flow at certain angles. Remember that you put your chin down into your
chest and huff and puff harder when concentrating, so the angle you use at
ease may not be best when working up close.

You might even think of adding extra ventilation up top if it won't weaken
the visor. I've moved my visor to other places, because I don't stand in
risky places or with risky gouge angles any more. When a piece of bark
flies, I'm nowhere near it, and my glasses stay dry even when the sap hits
the opposite wall 12 feet away.

Antistatic sprays and wipes are pretty effective at beading moisture, too.

On Fri, 17 Dec 2004 11:31:12 GMT, "Denis Marier"
wrote:

yeah, I've been known to have "senior moments" myself.. *g*


Sorry Mac, I got side tracked. I am getting a little old and I just got my
B12 shot.
I saw the new "UVEX Bionic Shield - Clear Lens - on the internet. It looks
good but I do not know if its working and if its worth the money they are
asking. When I read Rainex anti-fog it reflected another image in my mind.
I did used dish washing soap on my shield and wiped it dry. It works a
little but only for a short time. Have a good day.

"mac davis" wrote in message
.. .
On Fri, 17 Dec 2004 01:08:25 GMT, "Denis Marier"
wrote:

Hi Mac,

Hi Mac,

I do not know where you live. By the sound of it you may reside in a low
humidity and warm area. That may explain the absent of condensation
inside
your shield? Conversely the situation is different in North Eastern
coastal
area.

no, Dennis.. I didn't say condensation wasn't a problem. I just said
that I haven't tried the rainx no-fog on a face shield, so I didn't
know if it would work..

right now it's "winter" in Central CA.... about 42 degrees at midnight
and 96% humidity... foggy as hell but no rain...

"mac davis" wrote in message
.. .
On Thu, 16 Dec 2004 23:20:49 GMT, "Denis Marier"
wrote:

Rainex anti-fog
I haven't tried it on a face mask, but everything else I've used it
on, including bathroom mirrors in winter, have stayed fog free..

My query may not be exactly as per this thread.
The biggest problem I have with wearing a face shield is fog. After a
few
minutes of wearing the shield it starts to fog up. I have used dish
soap
and the like but still have fog. In order to minimize the
condensation
from
accumulating inside the shield I lift the bottom of the shield up a
little.
It helps but not all that well.
Recently I have read about the new "UVEX Bionic Shield - Clear Lens -
Anti-fog/Hardcoat".
Its priced at about $45.00/$50.00. I wonder if anyone has used it
yet.

"George" george@least wrote in message
...
Poor analogy, really. If there is a way to avoid problems - for
example
standing out of the throw zone and cutting the wood gently so the
shavings
fall, not fly, why not take them? A better driving analogy would
be
staying in your own lane to avoid head-on collisions and not
speeding
on
snow, to avoid loss of control.

Then there are the other benefits of low-pressure cutting, like fair
curves,
no tear-out, minimal sanding and no tendonitis, just to name a few.
It's
worth striving for, no matter how you like to armor yourself.

I would, however, recommend covering cast iron tools located in the
sap
throw path.


"mac davis" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 16 Dec 2004 06:26:08 -0500, "George" george@least wrote:

very true, George.. don't have accidents, and you save a lot of
bucks
on safety equipment..
no use wearing seat belts, either..

Don't stand in the throw zone, or hack the wood and throw
splinters,
and
it's all moot.

On Fri, 17 Dec 2004 14:47:47 GMT, "Denis Marier"
wrote:

Denis.. I'm no expert, but my gut feeling is that holes, even small
ones, might weaken the shield...

Hi George,

At time, I am tempted to drill holes (similar to a salt shaker) through the
shield where my mouth is. This may facilitate the warm air to exhaust. Or
it may make the situation worse?

"George" george@least wrote in message
...
"Denis Marier" wrote in message
...
My query may not be exactly as per this thread.
The biggest problem I have with wearing a face shield is fog. After a
few
minutes of wearing the shield it starts to fog up. I have used dish
soap
and the like but still have fog. In order to minimize the condensation
from
accumulating inside the shield I lift the bottom of the shield up a
little.
It helps but not all that well.

On most shield types I've used, the visor is vented up top, it's up to the
wearer to provide air flow from the bottom, which means keeping it at a
tilt
which does not close the flow. Logger masks have glasses above, mesh
below,
but they are heavier. Check and see if you might not be able to wear the
band of the visor at a bit of a tilt if yours is one where the shield
blocks
flow at certain angles. Remember that you put your chin down into your
chest and huff and puff harder when concentrating, so the angle you use at
ease may not be best when working up close.

You might even think of adding extra ventilation up top if it won't weaken
the visor. I've moved my visor to other places, because I don't stand in
risky places or with risky gouge angles any more. When a piece of bark
flies, I'm nowhere near it, and my glasses stay dry even when the sap hits
the opposite wall 12 feet away.

Antistatic sprays and wipes are pretty effective at beading moisture, too.