Hi,

I have borrowed a 13" Stihl chainsaw. It worked fine on the gas that was in
it last fall. I filled it with (mixed) gas that was about a year old. After
that it didn't work very well (stalled easily, had little cutting power). I
poured it out and put fresh gas in. It's still not working well. I was
wondering if anyone has any tips or links to good do-it-yourself type sites?
I'm (obviously) a newbie when it comes to this.

Thanks,
Shawn
--
Shawn Wilson

http://www.GlassGiant.com

Always use fresh gas in any two-cycle engine. My Echo weed eater taught
me this. It wouldn't even start until you gave it fresh gas and replaced
the spark plug each season. You may have to clean out the carburetor to get
rid of the gunky residue.

Barry

"Shawn Wilson" wrote in message
...
Hi,

I have borrowed a 13" Stihl chainsaw. It worked fine on the gas that
was in
it last fall. I filled it with (mixed) gas that was about a year old.
After
that it didn't work very well (stalled easily, had little cutting
power). I
poured it out and put fresh gas in. It's still not working well. I was
wondering if anyone has any tips or links to good do-it-yourself type
sites?
I'm (obviously) a newbie when it comes to this.

Thanks,
Shawn
--
Shawn Wilson

http://www.GlassGiant.com

Start by looking at the air filter. You may have clogged it up. After that,
check your manual for the mixture valve adjustments.

Almost every brand of 2-stroke oil contains anti-varnish stabilizers. Oh
yes, use premium gas.

Last resort, and this can happen when you let the gas run out entirely and
suck a wood chip in, open and clean the carb flappers with clean gasoline
(no oil).

"Shawn Wilson" wrote in message
...
Hi,

I have borrowed a 13" Stihl chainsaw. It worked fine on the gas that was
in
it last fall. I filled it with (mixed) gas that was about a year old.
After
that it didn't work very well (stalled easily, had little cutting power).
I
poured it out and put fresh gas in. It's still not working well. I was
wondering if anyone has any tips or links to good do-it-yourself type
sites?
I'm (obviously) a newbie when it comes to this.

I'm relatively new to turning. I got a lathe for Christmas and my table saw
has turned into a table for the most part. I have a crown bowl gouge that I
have modified the grind on the edges to cut down on catches. I am grinding
it at about 60 degrees now. I am wanting to do deeper bowls. More like
wooden vases actually. I know that I can make the grind steeper to go
deeper. What is the practical limit for the bevel? At 60 degrees I can't
seem to rub the bevel in anything over 3 inches deep. I really want to do
taller items. If there is a practical limit how do I hollow out a deeper
item?

This turning thing is addictive. Am I going to have to find a 12 step
program? I can't seem to go more than a day without making shavings.


--
Dennis W. Ewing Sr
210/653-1276

HelpI'm turning and I can't stop!

Delete one of the r's to reply directly.

Generally speaking, folks new to turning are encouraged to do more open bowls with sloped
sides and not too deep for exactly the reasons you state. The steeper the sides and the
deeper the piece, the harder it is to do.

What you use to turn deeper bowls partly depends if you are mounting the blank cross grain or
long grain.

On cross grain, some people grind a bowl gouge as you have suggested, with an angle close to
perpendicular to the tool with the left side or both sides ground back. The alternative is
to continue with large scrapers after you get to the point where your gouge no longer can be
rubbed properly.

On long grain, since you are hollowing from the center of the bowl (which has been center
drilled) you have more options. Richard Raffin might use his back-hollowing method with a
gouge as he does on boxes. It looks scary but can be learned if you can find somebody to
show you how to do it. Others use a gouge with a cut back left edge, working out from the
center to about 10 o'clock. There are also real specialties such as the Soren Berger tool.

Scrapers are also a possibility if you work from the center to the wall. One with a sharp
left corner can be used to nibble short cuts from center to wall.

Some people use the various shielded cutters.

In a word, the answer to your questions is -- get out the old credit card!

Bill


In article , says...
I'm relatively new to turning. I got a lathe for Christmas and my table saw
has turned into a table for the most part. I have a crown bowl gouge that I
have modified the grind on the edges to cut down on catches. I am grinding
it at about 60 degrees now. I am wanting to do deeper bowls. More like
wooden vases actually. I know that I can make the grind steeper to go
deeper. What is the practical limit for the bevel? At 60 degrees I can't
seem to rub the bevel in anything over 3 inches deep. I really want to do
taller items. If there is a practical limit how do I hollow out a deeper
item?

This turning thing is addictive. Am I going to have to find a 12 step
program? I can't seem to go more than a day without making shavings.

Also, Dennis, there are lots of turners in your area. If you are not in contact with them
you should be -- you will enjoy it. Check the AAW site for a link to your local chapter.

Bill

In article , says...
I'm relatively new to turning. I got a lathe for Christmas and my table saw
has turned into a table for the most part. I have a crown bowl gouge that I
have modified the grind on the edges to cut down on catches. I am grinding
it at about 60 degrees now. I am wanting to do deeper bowls. More like
wooden vases actually. I know that I can make the grind steeper to go
deeper. What is the practical limit for the bevel? At 60 degrees I can't
seem to rub the bevel in anything over 3 inches deep. I really want to do
taller items. If there is a practical limit how do I hollow out a deeper
item?

This turning thing is addictive. Am I going to have to find a 12 step
program? I can't seem to go more than a day without making shavings.

Remember, there are two ways to "rub a bevel." You can rub perpendicular
to the edge, or parallel. Catches happen when your deepest point of cut is
not the point where the edge exits the wood. This is visible as torn grain
in minor form, or as the big tilt when you get a dig.

More important than grind angle or type is to keep your toolrest as tight to
the work as you can to minimize the piece's leverage, and to present the
cutting edge only after you've steadied on the bevel. You can then hog if
you like, right on the fine edge of a catch to clear the interior, returning
to a cut to clear up the torn grain when you're close to final shape.

Take a peek at http://personalpages.tds.net/~upgeor...ing_inside.htm for
an extremely aggressive method of removing the interior of a deeper piece,
regardless of grain orientation. Also Darrell's page, where he shows the
shorter, shallower version of a pointy gouge - an Oland tool
http://www.aroundthewoods.com/. Less grabby, but slower, of course. I do
my initial hollowing of vases and ornaments with pointy gouges, because with
the tool rest low, the shavings run down the flute, and I don't have to stop
and blow the scraper dust out.

On the subject of speed. As long as you're cutting wood rather than
bullying it, stay slow. Faster rotations produce greater kinetic energy
for a catch, without, in my opinion, speeding up stock removal enough to
compensate for the risk.

"Dennis W. Ewing Sr." wrote in message
...
I'm relatively new to turning. I got a lathe for Christmas and my table
saw
has turned into a table for the most part. I have a crown bowl gouge that
I
have modified the grind on the edges to cut down on catches. I am grinding
it at about 60 degrees now. I am wanting to do deeper bowls. More like
wooden vases actually. I know that I can make the grind steeper to go
deeper. What is the practical limit for the bevel? At 60 degrees I can't
seem to rub the bevel in anything over 3 inches deep. I really want to do
taller items. If there is a practical limit how do I hollow out a deeper
item?

Hi Dennis Sr,
Obviously you know how to grind and sharpen edge tools and how to use
them. Your question is both proper and welcome here and I hope my reply
is also.

As you know, your question is a common one and answered differently in
books, tapes, magazines and almost daily on net sites. Turner friends
offer (demand?) to share their revelations. Although their opinions
differ as day to night, each is held with a death grip by their
proponent. Does make one wonder about authority, rules, always and
nevers for woodturning?

We turners generally fall into groups of bevel & edge true believers,
but no matter how much we want to believe in our particular guru and
submit to his/her authority, we usually end up finding out for
ourselves what works.Then as experts we the chosen go out with zeal and
conviction to preach our (egocentric, Chuck?) truth.

Within reason and common sense, innovation and 'trying it for ourselves
to see if it works' is safe, economical and easy to do. This is fun and
one of the attractions of woodturning. IOW, you ought to _Ask, But
Verify_!

For help in comparing and deciding on the 'best' tools and accessories
for deep hollowing, I suggest the excellent reviews of Lyn Mangiameli.
Find them in rcw's archives or Fred Holder's "More Woodturning". I
happen to enjoy making and using inserted bit scrapers/cutters ground to
41.2345andsometimes6 deg., but I'm not forcing you. Darrell Feltmate
has full instructions on his site. There are many other good sites plus
you should get lots of opinions here. Please let us know who you end up
believing in and follow as a loyal disciple. Happy hollowing, Arch

Fortiter,

Thanks for the input. I have learned over the years to value all opinions.
In my other life (I own a print shop) I see the same type of opinions (Mac
vs. PC, Quark vs. PageMaker or InDesign). the trick is as you say; to look
at all of them and see what works for you. I am fortunate to be a quick
study and am more than willing to spend a little money to try new ways of
doing things. I will try most anything once. I have found some of the
craziest sounding things work well and some of the most logical sounding
don't. That to me is the benefit of a serve like this. The wide rage of
opinions that I can sample to improve my addiction to wood. I imagine
someday I'll learn enough to share my knowledge, but for now I'm here to
soak up whatever I can pick up.


--
Dennis W. Ewing Sr
210/653-1276


Delete an r to reply directly

Help! I'm turning and I can't stop.
"Arch" wrote in message
...
Hi Dennis Sr,
Obviously you know how to grind and sharpen edge tools and how to use
them. Your question is both proper and welcome here and I hope my reply
is also.

As you know, your question is a common one and answered differently in
books, tapes, magazines and almost daily on net sites. Turner friends
offer (demand?) to share their revelations. Although their opinions
differ as day to night, each is held with a death grip by their
proponent. Does make one wonder about authority, rules, always and
nevers for woodturning?

We turners generally fall into groups of bevel & edge true believers,
but no matter how much we want to believe in our particular guru and
submit to his/her authority, we usually end up finding out for
ourselves what works.Then as experts we the chosen go out with zeal and
conviction to preach our (egocentric, Chuck?) truth.

Within reason and common sense, innovation and 'trying it for ourselves
to see if it works' is safe, economical and easy to do. This is fun and
one of the attractions of woodturning. IOW, you ought to _Ask, But
Verify_!

For help in comparing and deciding on the 'best' tools and accessories
for deep hollowing, I suggest the excellent reviews of Lyn Mangiameli.
Find them in rcw's archives or Fred Holder's "More Woodturning". I
happen to enjoy making and using inserted bit scrapers/cutters ground to
41.2345andsometimes6 deg., but I'm not forcing you. Darrell Feltmate
has full instructions on his site. There are many other good sites plus
you should get lots of opinions here. Please let us know who you end up
believing in and follow as a loyal disciple. Happy hollowing, Arch

Fortiter,

I don't guess there's any kind of practical limit other than one of safety.
As long as your edge is still thick and stiff enough to support the kind of
work you're doing without chipping or breaking then you can have it to
whatever angle you need to get the job done.

Assuming you're talking about cross-grain/faceplate/bowl turning orientation
of the wood as opposed to engrain hollowing...

I tried doing what you described below before and it worked but it was a
pretty specialized bowl gouge that I couldn't really use too much elsewhere.
What I ended up doing, and still usually do for those steep sided turnings
where you don't have a lot of tool swing space to work with was just to use
a fingernail ground shallow fluted gouge (aka spindle gouge) instead. The
more steel you have under the flute, such as in what many call a detail
gouge but usually larger diameter than those most often seen, the better as
the deeper you go. Less vibration that way. Keep that flute pointed to
around 4 o'clock and cut with the edge just to the right of the tip
centerline of the tool. It takes a little getting used to but it works well
and you don't have to pretty much dedicate a bowl gouge to the purpose.

Otherwise, I'd just do as much as I can with a "regular" swept back bowl
gouge; drill to (close to, of course) my final depth and as wide as will
accomodate the bowl gouge; start cutting from center to outside (bowl/vase
depth up to rim). It's a far more tricky thing to do but does work. You're
only riding that left side bevel and doing a pull-cut instead of push-cut.
Get it over-rotated to the right and you'll get a good catch. Keep the
bevel around the 9-10 o'clock position and just slightly rotate the tool to
the right (clockwise) until you start cutting. I usually have to shear
scrape after this procedure as I can't get a smooth finish just from the
tool this way.

BTW, these flute positions everybody always talks about (including myself,
of course) is so very dependent on how your gouge is formed (V-shaped,
U-shaped, depth of flute, size of flute, etc.) as well as how it's ground.
They are only rough approximations. Many of the techniques themselves that
we discuss are also dependent on these things too. I wouldn't even think of
doing some of the techniques that I regularly do with some of my friends
tools. They're just not the same kind of tool (and especially grind) even
though they are all called a "bowl gouge". When in doubt, stop the lathe
and hand turn the piece with the tool in the position you're thinking of.
See how it acts this way before turning on the machine. If still in doubt,
maybe you shouldn't be trying that cut right now anyway. grin

Good luck,

- Andrew


I'm relatively new to turning. I got a lathe for Christmas and my table
saw
has turned into a table for the most part. I have a crown bowl gouge that
I
have modified the grind on the edges to cut down on catches. I am grinding
it at about 60 degrees now. I am wanting to do deeper bowls. More like
wooden vases actually. I know that I can make the grind steeper to go
deeper. What is the practical limit for the bevel? At 60 degrees I can't
seem to rub the bevel in anything over 3 inches deep. I really want to do
taller items. If there is a practical limit how do I hollow out a deeper
item?

This turning thing is addictive. Am I going to have to find a 12 step
program? I can't seem to go more than a day without making shavings.


--
Dennis W. Ewing Sr

This turning thing is addictive. Am I going to have to find a 12 step
program? I can't seem to go more than a day without making shavings.

Hi Dennis,

It sounds as if you , like most of us here have been " bitten by the
turning bug". And this is the "meeting" for turners but the only
help we can offer for your addiction is to encourage more turning and
talking of turning - thats the only cure!

Welcome to the group !

Bertie

"Darrell Feltmate" wrote in message

Hi
My name is Darrell and I have a problem.
I only have a four or five year supply of wood in the yard and LOML will
not turn her back long enough for me to pile in some more.
What will I do with the oak and apple and spalted birch and pin cherry
and ample and birch that have been promised to me?

Would ya be a single malt drinker, Darrell. We need to sit and have a chat.
:-)

Max

Hi
My name is Darrell and I have a problem.
I only have a four or five year supply of wood in the yard and LOML will
not turn her back long enough for me to pile in some more.
What will I do with the oak and apple and spalted birch and pin cherry
and ample and birch that have been promised to me?
--
God bless and safe turning
Darrell Feltmate
Truro, NS, Canada
http://www.aroundthewoods.com

Max
A tea totaler am I although coffee tends to part me lips more than tea
these days. However, if you wish a wee dram while the coffee slips down
me throat, a chat would seem to go well with me.
--
God bless and safe turning
Darrell Feltmate
Truro, NS, Canada
http://www.aroundthewoods.com

Hi Darrell and Max,
As a Scottish 'Whiskypalian' I've found a thrifty deal. I'll provide
the tea, even a little sugar & milk, but I'll sip a drop (needn't be
_too wee) of Max's expensive single malt while we snack on Darrell's
biscuits. I'll be in the company of two fine fellows while learning
about grind angles and excess wood. We need a free place to meet. Any
volunteers? For aye, Arch

Fortiter,

"Darrell Feltmate" wrote in message

Max
A tea totaler am I although coffee tends to part me lips more than tea
these days. However, if you wish a wee dram while the coffee slips down
me throat, a chat would seem to go well with me.

Excellent. I'll bring some Jamaican Blue Mountain beans and my pickup
truck. :-)

Max

Arch and Max
We got to get closer together.
--
God bless and safe turning
Darrell Feltmate
Truro, NS, Canada
http://www.aroundthewoods.com

You're not OT at all. The manual for my chainsaw says very emphatically
that I should end the season by running it until empty. Every season I
forget.

The next Spring, I have learned that putting a small amount of gas without
the normal oil proportion, then cranking for a while, I can get it to start.
I let it run for a few minutes to sort of clean out, then stop it and put
in the PROPER oil and gas mix. Runs like a damn charm the rest of the
summer.

Bob Moody (cheapskate at large)

"Darrell Feltmate" wrote in message

Arch and Max
We got to get closer together.

T'would be an honor and a pleasure, Darrell. And I'm not really planning to
abscond with some of your blank stock. :-)

Max

Max
No need to abscond. Just turn your back and LOML will throw a pile in
your truck:-)
--
God bless and safe turning
Darrell Feltmate
Truro, NS, Canada
http://www.aroundthewoods.com

Bob Moody wrote:

You're not OT at all. The manual for my chainsaw says very emphatically
that I should end the season by running it until empty. Every season I
forget.

The next Spring, I have learned that putting a small amount of gas without
the normal oil proportion, then cranking for a while, I can get it to start.
I let it run for a few minutes to sort of clean out, then stop it and put
in the PROPER oil and gas mix. Runs like a damn charm the rest of the
summer.

Hi,

Thanks for the advise (to you and everyone else who answered). I think I'll
give your idea a try first, then clean the air filter and finally the carb, if
need be. I'm not really mechanically-inclined )

Thanks again everyone,
Shawn

--
Shawn Wilson

http://www.glassgiant.com