I would recommand building a Procut type chainsaw mill and just mount the
chainsaw vertically instead of horizontally like you would with the Procut.
It would be easy to make a indexing mount that would let you set the angle
of the blade to the bed.

You can decide if you want to buy the plans for the full mill or just build
your own H carriage. Having a sawmill is handy if you live in the woods.

I built one about 2 years ago for under $350 plus the cost of the chainsaw
and of course the plans.

Here's the link:

http://www.procutportablesawmills.com/index.html


You might also want to check out the milling yahoo group.

later,
Larry E.


"Terry King" wrote in message
.. .
(Also posted to rec.woodworking)
Has anyone seen a chain saw device that has the
'far' end of the bar stabilized for more accuracy?

I need to be able to cut off up to 8 by 12 beams,
and do many partial cuts accurately for timber
framing. I want to modify a couple of electric
chain saws for this work.

A sharp chainsaw with a unworn bar and chain makes a pretty
accurate cut if well controlled. I want to build a sort of
"chainsaw chop-saw" which controls the saw movement. Not
usual 'freehand' at all.

The closest thing I've seen are chain saw mills that
support both ends of the bar. But they are specialized
for ripping logs etc.

Also there is a device with a 'follower' blade that mounts
on an adapter circular saw, but the end of the bar and blade
are still unsupported.

Any pointers to designs or existing tools that use a
bar stabilized at both ends would be appreciated!

If I get something working I'll show what I did...
--
Regards, Terry King ...In The Woods In Vermont

The one who Dies With The Most Parts LOSES!! What do you need?

On Mon, 14 Jul 2003 00:07:25 -0400, Terry King
wrote:

(Also posted to rec.woodworking)
Has anyone seen a chain saw device that has the
'far' end of the bar stabilized for more accuracy?

I need to be able to cut off up to 8 by 12 beams,
and do many partial cuts accurately for timber
framing. I want to modify a couple of electric
chain saws for this work.

You probably won't find electric saws that are powerful enough for
cuts like that...at least I've never seen any.

You might want to check into a thing called "The Swedish Mill". It's
an alumninum framework portable sawmill that uses a Stihl gas-powered
chain saw for the cuts. Costs under $3000 complete, and can be
carried by one man, or put on top of a car. I've seen them cutting
15" diameter logs on them, and the limit is actually something over
20" with the right saw. You can cut 1/2" thick slabs, or square off a
cant to make a beam. The saw is run on a carriage with the blade
horizontal. The log is supported on both ends (about 10' apart I
think), and the ends can be individually raised or lowered to let you
flat-cut a tapered log. You move the saw by turning a crank that
hooks to a pulley arrangement. A 10' cut takes under a
minute...something like 30 seconds or so, but I wasn't timing with a
watch. If you have a limited number of logs to process, it looks like
a good machine.

If you have a lot to do, the larger portable bandsaw mills might do a
better, faster and easier job...check out a magazine called "Sawmill
and Woodlot" for some reviews and ads. Names I remember are Timber
Wolf (King?) and Wood Mizer. The larger machines tow behind a
vehicle, handle logs with hydraulics, and let the operator stay away
from the blade while cutting. Cost is anything from a few thousand to
a few tens of thousands, depending on size and options.

The closest thing I've seen are chain saw mills that
support both ends of the bar. But they are specialized
for ripping logs etc.

Yeah, that's the Swedish Mill idea. If you just want to crosscut,
some of the firewood processor machines have saws mounted to cut logs
to length.

I've also seen hand-grips for saw tips for longer bars, so two people
can keep it on track. That was 30+ years ago though...don't know what
liability lawyers have done to the availability of those things.

What sort of cuts are you trying to do? If it's square off a log, the
bandsaw mills, or Swedish Mill if not too long, will do it. If it's
chop one to length, something like the firewood processor machines
might work, or be adaptable. If you want to cut joints, a skilled
worker with a normal chainsaw, reciprocating saw or large circular saw
all work...I've seen shows that picture this activity for house
building.

-- Mike
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Terry King wrote:
(Also posted to rec.woodworking)
Has anyone seen a chain saw device that has the
'far' end of the bar stabilized for more accuracy?

I need to be able to cut off up to 8 by 12 beams,
and do many partial cuts accurately for timber
framing. I want to modify a couple of electric
chain saws for this work.

A sharp chainsaw with a unworn bar and chain makes a pretty
accurate cut if well controlled. I want to build a sort of
"chainsaw chop-saw" which controls the saw movement. Not
usual 'freehand' at all.

The closest thing I've seen are chain saw mills that
support both ends of the bar. But they are specialized
for ripping logs etc.

Also there is a device with a 'follower' blade that mounts
on an adapter circular saw, but the end of the bar and blade
are still unsupported.

Any pointers to designs or existing tools that use a
bar stabilized at both ends would be appreciated!

If I get something working I'll show what I did...

Hi Terry
If it was me I would get a "Canon" brand bar . They are much stiffer
and heavier then Oregon or Windsor . Of course a lot more money too but
they last a very long time . You should be able to get a direct
replacement . That said , no properly sharpened chain and squared up bar
should wander if not pushed faster then the chain is cutting . Luck
Ken Cutt