I'm looking to upgrade my bandsaw - my current saw is just too small for
rounding out large blanks, slabbing logs or resawing wider boards.
Currently I'm using a chainsaw and maul to do most of the
rough work. I'm looking in the 16-18"/1000$ range - does anyone have any
recommendations for saws/blades?

Andrew Staats wrote:
I'm looking to upgrade my bandsaw - my current saw is just too small
for rounding out large blanks, slabbing logs or resawing wider boards.
Currently I'm using a chainsaw and maul to do most of the
rough work. I'm looking in the 16-18"/1000$ range - does anyone have
any recommendations for saws/blades?

You may want to do a google group search of rec.woodworking, then ask in
that newsgroup if you want more info.

http://groups.google.com/groups?num=...ec.woodworking

HTH.

-- Mark

Andrew,

I am also looking to upgrade. My budget is somewhere around 1500$ and I
am willing to wait if something is currently out of reach. I also use a
chainsaw to maul most of the rough work. Need at least 12 inches of
capacity in a saw that I will never want to upgrade.

Recommendations from the woodturners carry a lot of weight with me since
we will use (abuse?) the saw in the same manner.

Thanks for this post and I'll be following it to see what kind of
recommendations we get.

Kirk

Hi Andrew, In that price range Laguana would be a good choice. I don't own one
but have seen them at a woodworking show.
I've also read positive reviews here.
I think they start at around $1000

I'm looking to upgrade my bandsaw - my current saw is just too small for
rounding out large blanks


Bob, Naugatuck Ct.
http://www.outofcontrol-woodturning.com

I own a Laguna 16". I just ordered my lathe so I can't comment on
specific lathe related operations, but in genreal woodworking terms: I
got this saw primarily because it has 12" resaw capacity in the small
16" footprint. It is very stout and the motor is plenty powerful. The
mobile base they sell is great. I've done some precise resawing with
it, so it _is_ capable of the kind of work it is marketed for. I think
the current models come with the new 'Laguna guides' as standard
equipment. This is good because [rant warning] the Euro guides, such
as my saw has, truly and utterly SUCK. That more than one prototype of
this design was ever built is a real blemish on the notion that
mankind's collective intelligence is evolving. Either that or they are
a supremely well executed cruelty joke. Did I mention that the Euro
guides totally SUCK? Well they do. They suck. OK? [end rant] These
guides are probably why I feel the saw is finicky and doesn't track as
precisely as it should. I imagine that brute force is at least as
important for roughing out something that will after be turned, and in
that respect this saw is fine.

Just whatever you buy, if it has Euro guides, factor in the cost of
new guides. Carter guides are around $150, and 'Laguna guides,' their
new style ceramic ones, are like $220.

Peace,
Sanaka


(Bob Pritchard) wrote in message ...
Hi Andrew, In that price range Laguana would be a good choice. I don't own one
but have seen them at a woodworking show.
I've also read positive reviews here.
I think they start at around $1000

I'm looking to upgrade my bandsaw - my current saw is just too small for
rounding out large blanks


Bob, Naugatuck Ct.
http://www.outofcontrol-woodturning.com

In article ,
(Sanaka) wrote:

Just whatever you buy, if it has Euro guides, factor in the cost of
new guides. Carter guides are around $150, and 'Laguna guides,' their
new style ceramic ones, are like $220.

I'm not sure what the Euro guides are, but I have the Carter's on my
Delta 14" - and I wouldn't recommend them to anyone who does a majority
of green wood cutting. The outer surface of the bearings load up with
damp sawdust and sap creating a loud and bumpy cutting experience. I
frequently have to stop the saw in order to scrape the gunk off each
bearing because it gets so bad. In hindsight I wish I had gone with the
standard block guides.

_____
American Association of Woodturners
Cascade Woodturners Assoc., Portland, Oregon
Northwest Woodturners, Tigard, Oregon
_____

I have a Jet 18". At first I wasn't really happy with it and REALLY
wished I'd have spent twice as much for a Laguna. But after a few months
of frustration I spent a few hours tuning it up. Now I'm a happier with
it and only sorta wish I had a Laguna. But...for sawing out blanks &
such, the Jet does a good job and cash that would've gone to Laguna is
better spend on chucks & turning tools.

I'm not sure how well it would work doing precision resawing...never
done any.

rr



Owen Lowe wrote:
In article ,
(Sanaka) wrote:


Just whatever you buy, if it has Euro guides, factor in the cost of
new guides. Carter guides are around $150, and 'Laguna guides,' their
new style ceramic ones, are like $220.


I'm not sure what the Euro guides are, but I have the Carter's on my
Delta 14" - and I wouldn't recommend them to anyone who does a majority
of green wood cutting. The outer surface of the bearings load up with
damp sawdust and sap creating a loud and bumpy cutting experience. I
frequently have to stop the saw in order to scrape the gunk off each
bearing because it gets so bad. In hindsight I wish I had gone with the
standard block guides.

_____
American Association of Woodturners
Cascade Woodturners Assoc., Portland, Oregon
Northwest Woodturners, Tigard, Oregon
_____

In article eWuDb.553368$HS4.4219529@attbi_s01,
Randy Rhine wrote:

I have a Jet 18". At first I wasn't really happy with it and REALLY
wished I'd have spent twice as much for a Laguna. But after a few months
of frustration I spent a few hours tuning it up. Now I'm a happier with
it and only sorta wish I had a Laguna. But...for sawing out blanks &
such, the Jet does a good job and cash that would've gone to Laguna is
better spend on chucks & turning tools.

I'm not sure how well it would work doing precision resawing...never
done any.

Hi Randy. Does your Jet have roller guides or blocks? If rollers any
problems with buildup cutting green wood?

See you Thursday? (There is a Cascade meeting Thurs., yes?)

_____
American Association of Woodturners
Cascade Woodturners Assoc., Portland, Oregon
Northwest Woodturners, Tigard, Oregon
_____

Imagine your Carter guides with the bearings turned 90 deg. to how
they are - that's Euro guides. They are standard on most of the
Italian made fabricated frame saws like Laguna and Meber. There is
necessarily a friction between the blade and the bearing surface all
the time. Interesting the Carters clog up w/ green wood - I'm sure the
Euros would be at least as bad. Block guides actually are very
effective, the only 'complaint' being the friction with the blade -
probably more an idealogical than real problem, especially with what
you describe where blocks would keep the blade wiped clean :-) The
Laguna guides are kind of a high tech block guide using a high heat
aerospace ceramic for the blocks.

Peace,
Sanaka


Owen Lowe wrote in message ...
In article ,
(Sanaka) wrote:

I'm not sure what the Euro guides are, but I have the Carter's on my
Delta 14" - and I wouldn't recommend them to anyone who does a majority
of green wood cutting. The outer surface of the bearings load up with
damp sawdust and sap creating a loud and bumpy cutting experience. I
frequently have to stop the saw in order to scrape the gunk off each
bearing because it gets so bad. In hindsight I wish I had gone with the
standard block guides.

_____
American Association of Woodturners
Cascade Woodturners Assoc., Portland, Oregon
Northwest Woodturners, Tigard, Oregon
_____

Ceramics are available for the Delta and Jet variety 14" saws. Got 'em on
mine. They're as slick or slicker than the graphite coolblocks without the
tendency to wear quickly away from cutting circle after circle.

They don't clog, but there's a danger there as well. They're so
trouble-free you can forget to clean and lube your lower thrust bearing, a
job I used to do each time I resquared my cool blocks.

"Sanaka" wrote in message
om...
Interesting the Carters clog up w/ green wood - I'm sure the
Euros would be at least as bad. Block guides actually are very
effective, the only 'complaint' being the friction with the blade -
probably more an idealogical than real problem, especially with what
you describe where blocks would keep the blade wiped clean :-) The
Laguna guides are kind of a high tech block guide using a high heat
aerospace ceramic for the blocks.

I have been looking close at the Mini-max 16 and Laguna 16, these saws are
about evenly priced. Anyone have any comparison or general information
about these saws?

Bill

I would go with the Mini-Max if I was to make the choice. I can't really
speak about comparisons because at the Woodshows the Laguna folks act like
they are too busy to talk to ordinary people. The Mini-Max demonstrators
will spend as much time as needed. I figure a company representative is just
that, they represent how the company works and the quality of the product.

Stuart Johnson
Red Oak, Texas


In article , Bill
wrote:
I have been looking close at the Mini-max 16 and Laguna 16, these saws are
about evenly priced. Anyone have any comparison or general information
about these saws?

Bill

It has flat discs, the flat side is against the blade. They revolve but
aren't the roller type your thinking of (I think).

NO...no meeting this month. Next one is in Jan.

rr



Owen Lowe wrote:
In article eWuDb.553368$HS4.4219529@attbi_s01,
Randy Rhine wrote:


I have a Jet 18". At first I wasn't really happy with it and REALLY
wished I'd have spent twice as much for a Laguna. But after a few months
of frustration I spent a few hours tuning it up. Now I'm a happier with
it and only sorta wish I had a Laguna. But...for sawing out blanks &
such, the Jet does a good job and cash that would've gone to Laguna is
better spend on chucks & turning tools.

I'm not sure how well it would work doing precision resawing...never
done any.


Hi Randy. Does your Jet have roller guides or blocks? If rollers any
problems with buildup cutting green wood?

See you Thursday? (There is a Cascade meeting Thurs., yes?)

_____
American Association of Woodturners
Cascade Woodturners Assoc., Portland, Oregon
Northwest Woodturners, Tigard, Oregon
_____

Oh...and...no...I haven't noticed a buildup when cutting green wood.

rr



Owen Lowe wrote:

In article eWuDb.553368$HS4.4219529@attbi_s01,
Randy Rhine wrote:


I have a Jet 18". At first I wasn't really happy with it and REALLY
wished I'd have spent twice as much for a Laguna. But after a few months
of frustration I spent a few hours tuning it up. Now I'm a happier with
it and only sorta wish I had a Laguna. But...for sawing out blanks &
such, the Jet does a good job and cash that would've gone to Laguna is
better spend on chucks & turning tools.

I'm not sure how well it would work doing precision resawing...never
done any.


Hi Randy. Does your Jet have roller guides or blocks? If rollers any
problems with buildup cutting green wood?

See you Thursday? (There is a Cascade meeting Thurs., yes?)

_____
American Association of Woodturners
Cascade Woodturners Assoc., Portland, Oregon
Northwest Woodturners, Tigard, Oregon
_____

Check out Grizzly. They have a nice selection.

"Andrew Staats" wrote in message
news
I'm looking to upgrade my bandsaw - my current saw is just too small for
rounding out large blanks, slabbing logs or resawing wider boards.
Currently I'm using a chainsaw and maul to do most of the
rough work. I'm looking in the 16-18"/1000$ range - does anyone have any
recommendations for saws/blades?

Euro guides are just fine. I've used saws with Carter Guides and my
Minimax has Euro Guides and the euro guides are just fine; no real
need to upgrade to Carter guides if you're running a decent bandsaw.

"Andrew Staats" wrote in message . com...
I'm looking to upgrade my bandsaw - my current saw is just too small for
rounding out large blanks, slabbing logs or resawing wider boards.
Currently I'm using a chainsaw and maul to do most of the
rough work. I'm looking in the 16-18"/1000$ range - does anyone have any
recommendations for saws/blades?

Wet wood needs a fair amount of horsepower and a decent blade. I like
to use the Timberwolf 3/8" 3tpi AS blade for cutting wet wood (i.e.
bowl blanks), for resawing I like to use a 1" Lennox Trimaster carbide
blade. A 1" carbide blade needs a saw that can tension 25000psi and
has 20" or larger wheels. After a lot of searching I upgraded from a
Jet 14" to a Minimax MM20. The MM20 has 20" throat, 15" resaw
capacity, and a 4.8hp motor, it also has the beefiest frame in its
class, very stout guide assembly, cast wheels, and is just a very
massive machine for the money. It's made for Minimax by Centauro,
which is a top maker of bandsaws. The Euroshop/Aggazzi bandsaws are
probably the next best, followed by the ACM bandsaws that are imported
by Bridgewood (their pro series), Felder, and Laguna. In 220V1phase,
60hz trim the stock ACM motors tend to run very hot which is why
Bridgewood replaces the ACM motors with American made ones and Felder
substitutes Austrian ones. Except fo the motors the saws are the
same. The Bridgewood Pro is probably the best value of the ACM saws.

In the 16"-18" /$1000 range you're talking exclusively about light
weight asian imports. The frames are much lighter and the guide
assemblies are much less stout than the Italian welded steel frame
bandsaws. One decent light weight Italian saw is the Minimax S45
which is made by Minimax but it's a bit more than the $1000 limit
you've set.

One thing I've found with my Minimax MM20 is that I use it a lot for
general purpose cutting that I use to do exclusively on the tablesaw.
For example, for initial stock prep I like to use the bandsaw, instead
of the tablesaw, for ripping. The kerf is less, feed rate is higher,
and it's much safer. I also like to use the bandsaw for ripping any
thick stock (say 16/4 leg stock). I find that using the carbide blade
I'm able to get a very nice finish that cleans up quickly with a ROS
or a quick pass over the jointer set for 1/64" cut.

I would seriously consider the Minimax MM16 or MM20 bandsaws.

"Andrew Staats" wrote in message . com...
I'm looking to upgrade my bandsaw - my current saw is just too small for
rounding out large blanks, slabbing logs or resawing wider boards.
Currently I'm using a chainsaw and maul to do most of the
rough work. I'm looking in the 16-18"/1000$ range - does anyone have any
recommendations for saws/blades?

Ellis Wallentine on the Wood Central forum addressed this question.
What band saw to get for woodturners? And his response makes sense.
He says get an old heavy duty Oliver, Tannewitz, Northfield, etc. band
saw. Old and used and hopefully cheap. You want a big throat depth
and big capacity under the guides and a huge motor. You don't really
care if the tires are worn or the bearings are wobbly as a woodturner
roughing blanks. You want horsepower and capacity to get the blank to
rough shape. You just want your cut to be within a 1/4 inch or so of
ideal. Accuracy isn't terribly important.

These old monster bandsaws come with 3 phase motors. So you would
have to get a rotary phase converter to make 3 phase power or buy a
VFD that takes 1 phase on the input side and produces 3 phase on the
output side to get supply the motor. Not difficult or too costly for
either of these methods. Dealers Electric and Ebay have cheap VFD.

On 20 Dec 2003 10:13:14 -0800, (Russell Seaton) wrote:

Ellis Wallentine on the Wood Central forum addressed this question.
What band saw to get for woodturners? And his response makes sense.
He says get an old heavy duty Oliver, Tannewitz, Northfield, etc. band
saw. Old and used and hopefully cheap. You want a big throat depth
and big capacity under the guides and a huge motor. You don't really
care if the tires are worn or the bearings are wobbly as a woodturner
roughing blanks. You want horsepower and capacity to get the blank to
rough shape. You just want your cut to be within a 1/4 inch or so of
ideal. Accuracy isn't terribly important.

These old monster bandsaws come with 3 phase motors. So you would
have to get a rotary phase converter to make 3 phase power or buy a
VFD that takes 1 phase on the input side and produces 3 phase on the
output side to get supply the motor. Not difficult or too costly for
either of these methods. Dealers Electric and Ebay have cheap VFD.

While I agree with Russ on big-iron, I have taken a different route (while waiting on a big-iron deal to appear locally) due to
parts availablity. I have a Reliant DD90 (14" import) that I've made some mods to that has improved the performance immeasurably.
The upper wheel hinge broke, so I made one from a 1/2" thick steel plate using only a sawsall, drill press and angle grinder. It
no longer a weak point in the system. I built a large table to handle big stock. Slides on and off easily (for changing blades
only). I also replaced the burned out 1750 RPM 3/4hp motor with a Delta 3450 RPM 1.5hp motor. Using the existing jackshaft, I was
able to get the speed down a bit. Using a 3/8" 3TPI hook tooth blade running at 4200 SFM, I can cut thru 11" thick green work with
ease. The blade will break before the saw will stall (DAMHIK). This saw can't cut a straight line to save itself, but great for
roughing out blanks. In fact, I just got another DD90 (free) for parts.

Peter Teubel
Milford, MA
http://www.revolutionary-turners.com

Among other comments, Peter Teubel wrote:

I have a Reliant DD90 (14" import) ...I also replaced the burned out 1750
RPM 3/4hp motor...

Good move! I once borrowed a friend's Reliant when my ancient Sears
(King-Seely) needed new guides and tried to resaw a piece of wenge less than
3 inches thick. Fed it very slowly, and still burned out the motor before
I'd gotten through 8 inches of cut length. It convinced me not to buy one.
Or much of anything else under that brand name. Not that there was much
chance to begin with.

Owen Davies

What type of teeth configuration did you have on your blade when the motor
burned out.

"Owen Davies" wrote in message
t...
Among other comments, Peter Teubel wrote:

I have a Reliant DD90 (14" import) ...I also replaced the burned out
1750
RPM 3/4hp motor...

Good move! I once borrowed a friend's Reliant when my ancient Sears
(King-Seely) needed new guides and tried to resaw a piece of wenge less
than
3 inches thick. Fed it very slowly, and still burned out the motor before
I'd gotten through 8 inches of cut length. It convinced me not to buy
one.
Or much of anything else under that brand name. Not that there was much
chance to begin with.

Owen Davies

Denis Marier not unreasonably asked:

What type of teeth configuration did you have on your blade when the motor
burned out.

Whatever he had on it. Memory says it was hooked, about 3 tpi, but it's
long enough ago that I can't be sure. Definitely not a top-quality resaw
blade, but my guess is that a better blade would only have bought me a few
more inches of cut before disaster struck. It really was not a saw that
inspired confidence.

Owen Davies

While I see that choosing the proper bandsaw is important I realized that
picking up the right blade is as important.
Background:
I am looking around to upgrade my old (1978) Rockwell Bandsaw. Its maximum
height of cut is 6 inches with 1/2 HP motor. To cut blanks I had to get a 4
TPI (L) skip tooth blade. http://www.melbran.com/wikus_geometry.htm#skip
It's works well. Last spring when cutting a 5" thick maple blanks the blade
went to a soft spot and accelerated the cutting pace. I pulled my finger as
quick as I could but not fast enough for my left hand index to be cut to the
bone below the knuckle. Today, the flesh and skin have grown back on the
finger after about six months. The only wenge I have is 2" thick dried and I
have not problem cutting it.with the 4 TPI (L) blade FWIW


"Owen Davies" wrote in message
t...
Denis Marier not unreasonably asked:

What type of teeth configuration did you have on your blade when the
motor
burned out.

Whatever he had on it. Memory says it was hooked, about 3 tpi, but it's
long enough ago that I can't be sure. Definitely not a top-quality resaw
blade, but my guess is that a better blade would only have bought me a few
more inches of cut before disaster struck. It really was not a saw that
inspired confidence.

Owen Davies

Denis,
Your experience is a good example to all of the old rule of bandsawing:
never push a piece through a band saw with your fingers or hands in line
with the blade. Be paranoid around all power tools; it will help you keep
all your digits where they belong.
Have happy, safe holidays.

Ken Moon
Webberville, TX
*************************************
"Denis Marier" wrote in message
...
While I see that choosing the proper bandsaw is important I realized that
picking up the right blade is as important.
Background:
I am looking around to upgrade my old (1978) Rockwell Bandsaw. Its maximum
height of cut is 6 inches with 1/2 HP motor. To cut blanks I had to get a
4
TPI (L) skip tooth blade. http://www.melbran.com/wikus_geometry.htm#skip
It's works well. Last spring when cutting a 5" thick maple blanks the
blade
went to a soft spot and accelerated the cutting pace. I pulled my finger
as
quick as I could but not fast enough for my left hand index to be cut to
the
bone below the knuckle. Today, the flesh and skin have grown back on the
finger after about six months. The only wenge I have is 2" thick dried and
I
have not problem cutting it.with the 4 TPI (L) blade FWIW


"Owen Davies" wrote in message
t...
Denis Marier not unreasonably asked:

What type of teeth configuration did you have on your blade when the
motor
burned out.

Whatever he had on it. Memory says it was hooked, about 3 tpi, but it's
long enough ago that I can't be sure. Definitely not a top-quality
resaw
blade, but my guess is that a better blade would only have bought me a
few
more inches of cut before disaster struck. It really was not a saw that
inspired confidence.

Owen Davies