Could someone assist my googling? g Two days ago the power company
converted a walnut tree in our backyard to a pile of branches and a stack of
14" logs about a foot to a foot and a half long. I painted the ends of the
largest of the logs before running out of old paint.

Then I unpacked my new Harbor Freight (I know, I know) mini lathe and set of
starter lathe chisels and made three practice "Christmas Tree Ornaments"
from lengths of the branches. No finish was applied. This morning the two
that are under an inch in diameter are ok but the 2" diameter ornament is
badly cracked.

How does one successfully work with green wood? Strip off the bark and let
it sit a year?

In any case I'm not going to be able to turn all the wood so there are some
free-for-the-hauling walnut logs in Bowie, Maryland USA if anyone wants some
wood. Do the obvious to the email address.

-- Mark

"Mark Jerde" wrote in message
...

In any case I'm not going to be able to turn all the wood so there are
some free-for-the-hauling walnut logs in Bowie, Maryland USA if anyone
wants some wood. Do the obvious to the email address.

Sorry about the spam addy, forgot I changed it. Try ([lower case] my first
name, no space, my last name at yahoo dot com).

-- Mark

Mark Jerde wrote:
Could someone assist my googling? g Two days ago the power company
converted a walnut tree in our backyard to a pile of branches and a stack of
14" logs about a foot to a foot and a half long. I painted the ends of the
largest of the logs before running out of old paint.

Then I unpacked my new Harbor Freight (I know, I know) mini lathe and set of
starter lathe chisels and made three practice "Christmas Tree Ornaments"
from lengths of the branches. No finish was applied. This morning the two
that are under an inch in diameter are ok but the 2" diameter ornament is
badly cracked.

How does one successfully work with green wood? Strip off the bark and let
it sit a year?

In any case I'm not going to be able to turn all the wood so there are some
free-for-the-hauling walnut logs in Bowie, Maryland USA if anyone wants some
wood. Do the obvious to the email address.

-- Mark



Are you trying to turn the ornaments using an entire branch section or
are you splitting the logs to remove the pith?

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA

My best luck has been using several methods.

1) Remove the pith out no matter what you do.

2) Cut and turn as much as possible green. Leave it thicker so that you can
turn away what warps. Usually bowls in my case. Then
anchorseal it and let it dry. I just build up my stock often up to a year
then. Then return to the lathe turn it again then put on your finnish.

3) Cut and turn as soon as possible but leave it thin so that it can warp
without cracking (again usually bowls in my case).

4) Cut into spindle stock. (Leave pith out again). Then seal the ends, I
use anchorseal or parafin on the ends. Anchorseal is safer, but I found a
temperature controlled pot to use for parafin and seal ends outside. As
long as you stack them with stickers in between I have had very good results
creating my own spindle stock. Again I usually set this aside for later use
after it drys.

A very good book I would recommend is "Turning Green Wood" by Michael
Odonnell though there are now many good books and videos on turning green
wood.

Also website searches on turning green wood will give you many ideas.

Have fun and good luck. Remember even if you loose some it was all free.
After I few times of experimenting you will find what works for you.


"Mark Jerde" wrote in message
...
Could someone assist my googling? g Two days ago the power company
converted a walnut tree in our backyard to a pile of branches and a stack
of 14" logs about a foot to a foot and a half long. I painted the ends of
the largest of the logs before running out of old paint.

Then I unpacked my new Harbor Freight (I know, I know) mini lathe and set
of starter lathe chisels and made three practice "Christmas Tree
Ornaments" from lengths of the branches. No finish was applied. This
morning the two that are under an inch in diameter are ok but the 2"
diameter ornament is badly cracked.

How does one successfully work with green wood? Strip off the bark and
let it sit a year?

In any case I'm not going to be able to turn all the wood so there are
some free-for-the-hauling walnut logs in Bowie, Maryland USA if anyone
wants some wood. Do the obvious to the email address.

-- Mark

Green wood is a fun thing - like others have said, coat.

Don't plan on a pith line in anything - it will be a hole.

I have turned green wood and taken the 1/4" over size walls
to a drying area to dry slowly.

I have also taken an almost finished green bowl and put it
in a microwave.

afterwards you can shape a hot bowl - at 50% defrost or the like.
shape the bowl into unique non-round shapes. Hand sanding is required.

The precut bowls/cups - are drying faster and need to be slowed with damp rags.
When the rags dry and the bowls dry - (depends on the location!!)
then remount it on the lathe and complete the bowl or cup.....

Richard Raffan "Turning Wood" - video tape workshop is interesting as it is
all wet cutting.

It might help if you search for it - ISBN 0918804566

He has a companion book as well.

Martin

John Gbur wrote:
4) Cut into spindle stock. (Leave pith out again). Then seal the ends, I
use anchorseal or parafin on the ends. Anchorseal is safer, but I found a
temperature controlled pot to use for parafin and seal ends outside.

Being in the UK, I am wondering if paraffin would do a useful job. Have
you tried kerosene?

I assume you are referring to paraffin wax or candle wax.

I don't know how far around the world these various names go but the
thought of someone's workshop exploding as a result of following this
advice......

Don't forget the internet is worldwide and the UK's influence runs deep
in some parts still.

Dave L

Dave Lawson wrote:
John Gbur wrote:
4) Cut into spindle stock. (Leave pith out again). Then seal the ends, I
use anchorseal or parafin on the ends. Anchorseal is safer, but I found a
temperature controlled pot to use for parafin and seal ends outside.

Being in the UK, I am wondering if paraffin would do a useful job. Have
you tried kerosene?

I assume you are referring to paraffin wax or candle wax.

I don't know how far around the world these various names go but the
thought of someone's workshop exploding as a result of following this
advice......

Don't forget the internet is worldwide and the UK's influence runs deep
in some parts still.

Dave L

We are both at fault. If we said paraffin wax and you said paraffin
oil, nobody would be confused. As much.

--
Gerald Ross
Cochran, GA

A Lot of people mistake their
imagination for their memory.

Hello Mark,

Strip off the bark. Using a chain saw or maul, split the 14" logs
down the middle. This is to remove the pith.
You could also rip the logs into small flat pieces 2-3" in thickness.
Coat the ends with wax or loads of
old paint. Keep outside, covered (out of the rain), and off the
ground. Air must be allowed to circulate. Figure
about 1 year per inch thickness but I personally can't wait that long.

Use the branches to practice and develop your skills with the skew and
gouge.


On Nov 20, 11:38*am, "Mark Jerde" wrote:
Could someone assist my googling? *g *Two days ago the power company
converted a walnut tree in our backyard to a pile of branches and a stack of
14" logs about a foot to a foot and a half long. *I painted the ends of the
largest of the logs before running out of old paint.

Then I unpacked my new Harbor Freight (I know, I know) mini lathe and set of
starter lathe chisels and made three practice "Christmas Tree Ornaments"
from lengths of the branches. *No finish was applied. *This morning the two
that are under an inch in diameter are ok but the 2" diameter ornament is
badly cracked.

How does one successfully work with green wood? *Strip off the bark and let
it sit a year?

In any case I'm not going to be able to turn all the wood so there are some
free-for-the-hauling walnut logs in Bowie, Maryland USA if anyone wants some
wood. *Do the obvious to the email address.

* *-- Mark

"Mark Jerde" wrote in message
...
Could someone assist my googling? g Two days ago the power company
converted a walnut tree in our backyard to a pile of branches and a stack
of 14" logs about a foot to a foot and a half long. I painted the ends of
the largest of the logs before running out of old paint.

Then I unpacked my new Harbor Freight (I know, I know) mini lathe and set
of starter lathe chisels and made three practice "Christmas Tree
Ornaments" from lengths of the branches. No finish was applied. This
morning the two that are under an inch in diameter are ok but the 2"
diameter ornament is badly cracked.

How does one successfully work with green wood? Strip off the bark and
let it sit a year?

In any case I'm not going to be able to turn all the wood so there are
some free-for-the-hauling walnut logs in Bowie, Maryland USA if anyone
wants some wood. Do the obvious to the email address.

-- Mark

I have been told (my direct experience in turning is still futuristic)
that one can
turn green wood, but after turning, it should be sealed somehow to cure (dry
without
cracking) for about a year.
My particular informant prefers using plastic film wrap (saran or
equivalent),
wrapping the piece(s) well, & storing away for about a year.

Either way, it will be a long time until you can turn the green wood into
a useful
thing without cracks - either cure the stock, or cure the turning...

HTH

Gerald Ross wrote:

Being in the UK, I am wondering if paraffin would do a useful job.
Have you tried kerosene?

I assume you are referring to paraffin wax or candle wax.

I used to use an old hand held electric clothes iron to melt paraffin
wax into the end grain. This stops the rapid, uneven drying that causes
cracks in wet wood drying. Also be sure the pith is removed. I never
used any commercial products like anchor seal that everyone seems to
like, but wax always worked well for me.

--
Jack
Using FREE News Server: http://Motzarella.org
http://jbstein.com

I don't know how far around the world these various names go but the
thought of someone's workshop exploding as a result of following this
advice......

Don't forget the internet is worldwide and the UK's influence runs
deep in some parts still.

Dave L

We are both at fault. If we said paraffin wax and you said paraffin oil,
nobody would be confused. As much.

In message , Jack Stein
writes
Gerald Ross wrote:

Being in the UK, I am wondering if paraffin would do a useful job.
Have you tried kerosene?

I assume you are referring to paraffin wax or candle wax.

I used to use an old hand held electric clothes iron to melt paraffin
wax into the end grain. This stops the rapid, uneven drying that
causes cracks in wet wood drying. Also be sure the pith is removed. I
never used any commercial products like anchor seal that everyone seems
like, but wax always worked well for me.

I too like Wax, it has worked for everything I have sealed. The only
wood I had problems with was the ones I used a commercial sealer !

One way to melt the wax is to use an electric deep-fat fryer, they will
handle decent size pieces depending on shape, just remember to turn it
off when the wax is molten, its normal temperature is a little high. If
you plan on sealing a lot of wood, and I mean a lot you can buy wax
pellets in bulk at very reasonable prices. Besides if you get bored
turning candlesticks, you can make your own candles

Another trick is to add colouring to the was to colour code your wood. I
usually dip the wood for a few seconds for any moisture to fizz away,
which seems to give a better adherence to the wood
--
John

Gerald Ross wrote:
Dave Lawson wrote:
John Gbur wrote:
4) Cut into spindle stock. (Leave pith out again). Then seal the
ends, I use anchorseal or parafin on the ends. Anchorseal is safer,
but I found a temperature controlled pot to use for parafin and seal
ends outside.

Being in the UK, I am wondering if paraffin would do a useful job.
Have you tried kerosene?

I assume you are referring to paraffin wax or candle wax.

I don't know how far around the world these various names go but the
thought of someone's workshop exploding as a result of following this
advice......

Don't forget the internet is worldwide and the UK's influence runs
deep in some parts still.

Dave L

We are both at fault. If we said paraffin wax and you said paraffin oil,
nobody would be confused. As much.

Isn't language a wonderful thing. ---- Divided by a common language.
Dave L

Mark,

Actually, green bowl turning is a lot of fun. Give it a try.

Take the green piece (without any pith in it) and turn the rough
shape.

Make the wood as uniform a thickness as you can, but leave lots of
wood in place for the final turning.

For drying, if the wood feels really wet (you'll know) I put it in a
brown paper bag so it dries slowly for a couple of weeks. Plastic
bags don't do it.

Otherwise I just put it on the shelf. I weigh it first (a cooking
scale from the Mart on the Wall). I weigh if each week, and when I
get the same weight for two weeks, its ready to turn. Usually about a
months time in MN.

I don't slather it with anything, unless I have a big (12" plus) bowl,
or I know that the wood is fragile. Then, I just do the end grain
portions of the outside, but not the inside. After all I do want the
moisture to LEAVE the piece, not be trapped in there forever. I use
Anchoseal, shellac, old latex paint, whatever I have. After all it
will be turned off when I finish the work.

Mounting the wood is the most seriious problem. Remember that the
bowl has changed in all directions when you put it back on the lathe.

If you use a glue block on your faceplate, it may have warped enough
to weaken/break the glue joint. You may have to reflatten the bottom
and reglue.

If you use a scroll chuck, you will have to redo the tenon or the
recess, as it won't be exactly round, and wont hold the wood securely.

If you just screwed the wood to the face plate, you should be fine

Once it is securely mounted, get out your chisels and create beauty.

Old Guy



On Nov 20, 10:38*am, "Mark Jerde" wrote:
Could someone assist my googling? *g *Two days ago the power company
converted a walnut tree in our backyard to a pile of branches and a stack of
14" logs about a foot to a foot and a half long. *I painted the ends of the
largest of the logs before running out of old paint.

Then I unpacked my new Harbor Freight (I know, I know) mini lathe and set of
starter lathe chisels and made three practice "Christmas Tree Ornaments"
from lengths of the branches. *No finish was applied. *This morning the two
that are under an inch in diameter are ok but the 2" diameter ornament is
badly cracked.

How does one successfully work with green wood? *Strip off the bark and let
it sit a year?

In any case I'm not going to be able to turn all the wood so there are some
free-for-the-hauling walnut logs in Bowie, Maryland USA if anyone wants some
wood. *Do the obvious to the email address.

* *-- Mark

On Fri, 21 Nov 2008 07:44:16 -0500, Gerald Ross wrote:

Dave Lawson wrote:
John Gbur wrote:
4) Cut into spindle stock. (Leave pith out again). Then seal the ends, I
use anchorseal or parafin on the ends. Anchorseal is safer, but I found a
temperature controlled pot to use for parafin and seal ends outside.

Being in the UK, I am wondering if paraffin would do a useful job. Have
you tried kerosene?

I assume you are referring to paraffin wax or candle wax.

I don't know how far around the world these various names go but the
thought of someone's workshop exploding as a result of following this
advice......

Don't forget the internet is worldwide and the UK's influence runs deep
in some parts still.

Dave L

We are both at fault. If we said paraffin wax and you said paraffin
oil, nobody would be confused. As much.

Wow.. thinking back a few years when a friend from the UK suggested I use
"Liquid Paraffin" for wet sanding...
After extensive searching, I found that the US translation was mineral oil..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Thu, 20 Nov 2008 16:38:26 GMT, "Mark Jerde" wrote:

Could someone assist my googling? g Two days ago the power company
converted a walnut tree in our backyard to a pile of branches and a stack of
14" logs about a foot to a foot and a half long. I painted the ends of the
largest of the logs before running out of old paint.

Then I unpacked my new Harbor Freight (I know, I know) mini lathe and set of
starter lathe chisels and made three practice "Christmas Tree Ornaments"
from lengths of the branches. No finish was applied. This morning the two
that are under an inch in diameter are ok but the 2" diameter ornament is
badly cracked.

How does one successfully work with green wood? Strip off the bark and let
it sit a year?

In any case I'm not going to be able to turn all the wood so there are some
free-for-the-hauling walnut logs in Bowie, Maryland USA if anyone wants some
wood. Do the obvious to the email address.

-- Mark

A lot depends on your skill level and "tastes", Mark..
You might notice that most replies that you got addressed bowls, the most common
thing turned green..
I've never had luck with anything green that was spindle turned, maybe others
have..

Anyway, after trying to dry rough turned pieces, using about every method known
to man, I quit rough turning..

I turn green wood to final thickness, or maybe I should say thinness, and if it
will cooperate, I sand and apply an oil finish..
They very seldom crack, but they warp like hell.. which is something that I
happen to like and also seems to sell well..
Someone looks at a "banana split" dish and asked how the hell I carved it.. I
just say that I turned it and mother nature stretched it for me..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Nov 20, 11:38 am, "Mark Jerde" wrote:
Could someone assist my googling? g Two days ago the power company
converted a walnut tree in our backyard to a pile of branches and a stack of
14" logs about a foot to a foot and a half long. I painted the ends of the
largest of the logs before running out of old paint.

Then I unpacked my new Harbor Freight (I know, I know) mini lathe and set of
starter lathe chisels and made three practice "Christmas Tree Ornaments"
from lengths of the branches. No finish was applied. This morning the two
that are under an inch in diameter are ok but the 2" diameter ornament is
badly cracked.

How does one successfully work with green wood? Strip off the bark and let
it sit a year?

In any case I'm not going to be able to turn all the wood so there are some
free-for-the-hauling walnut logs in Bowie, Maryland USA if anyone wants some
wood. Do the obvious to the email address.

-- Mark

Mark,
for ornaments I would suggest you use dry wood.
Cut or split the branches to remove the pith and then use the
microwave (watch out for SO (-: )
Use it on about 75%power and zap for 30 seconds then allow to cool and
weigh. Repeat ad nauseum until the weight is stabilized and you are
ready to go.

In article ,
Stuart wrote:

In article ,
mac davis wrote:

Wow.. thinking back a few years when a friend from the UK suggested I
use "Liquid Paraffin" for wet sanding... After extensive searching, I
found that the US translation was mineral oil..

Interesting because the term "Liquid Paraffin" normally has a highly
specific meaning in the UK. You would normally purchase it from a pharmacy
(drug store) and it is taken internally, by mouth, as a laxative!

Any "mineral oil" would not be recommended for this as it would be toxic.

To be honest, I'm not sure what the source of "Liquid paraffin" actually
is but "mineral oil" implies something derived from the stuff that comes
out of the ground.

Stuart, mineral oil is -highly- refined petroleum and I suspect it is
exactly the same thing as "liquid paraffin", as we use mineral oil in
exactly the same way. BTW, you do know that paraffin (both wax and
kerosine) also are refined from crude, right?

--
--------------------------------------------------------
Personal e-mail is the n7bsn but at amsat.org
This posting address is a spam-trap and seldom read
RV and Camping FAQ can be found at
http://www.ralphandellen.us/rv

On Sun, 23 Nov 2008 07:49:52 -0800, Ralph E Lindberg wrote:

In article ,
Stuart wrote:

In article ,
mac davis wrote:

Wow.. thinking back a few years when a friend from the UK suggested I
use "Liquid Paraffin" for wet sanding... After extensive searching, I
found that the US translation was mineral oil..

Interesting because the term "Liquid Paraffin" normally has a highly
specific meaning in the UK. You would normally purchase it from a pharmacy
(drug store) and it is taken internally, by mouth, as a laxative!

Any "mineral oil" would not be recommended for this as it would be toxic.

To be honest, I'm not sure what the source of "Liquid paraffin" actually
is but "mineral oil" implies something derived from the stuff that comes
out of the ground.

Stuart, mineral oil is -highly- refined petroleum and I suspect it is
exactly the same thing as "liquid paraffin", as we use mineral oil in
exactly the same way. BTW, you do know that paraffin (both wax and
kerosine) also are refined from crude, right?

Exactly right, Ralph.. and you should have seen the looks of sympathy when I'd
go the pharmacy and ask for 3 or 4 pints of mineral oil.. rofl

BTW: Mineral oil is also the main ingredient in "baby oil"..
(nope, not made from pressing babies)


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

In message , mac davis
writes

BTW: Mineral oil is also the main ingredient in "baby oil"..
(nope, not made from pressing babies)


Squished Babies..bit messy.

But have you tried using Baby Oil on wood?

--
John

Hi Mark,

One lazy man's method of making stable spindle stock is by relieving the
internal stresses of green wood by just letting an untreated log or
limb, say about 18" long, crack & split by itself.

Not for all species, but often there is one deep longitudinal split
(sometimes two) all the way to the pith that "releases" much of the
internal stresses and strains. Then just debark and rive along the big
split and cut up the two unequal halves into spindle stock sizes of your
choice.

I sometimes slosh liquid dishwashing detergent (or whatever it's called
in the UK) on the two halves before cutting them up, but that's another
topic to discuss pro & con ad infinitum (and nauseum) along with alcohol
soaks, microwaves, paper sacks, incantations, acts of congress (or
parliment), etc. etc.


Turn to Safety, Arch
Fortiter


http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings

On Sun, 23 Nov 2008 22:37:24 +0000, John wrote:

In message , mac davis
writes

BTW: Mineral oil is also the main ingredient in "baby oil"..
(nope, not made from pressing babies)


Squished Babies..bit messy.

But have you tried using Baby Oil on wood?

Yes, that was my original point.. wet sanding with mineral oil..
You don't want to use "baby oil" because it usually has stuff added, such as
perfume, aloe, etc..

My results were really stunning, for a few days.. lol
As mineral oil not only isn't a finish, but also never dries, the nice shiny
bowl soon becomes a dull, sticky dust collector..

I wet sand with natural Danish oil now and buff when cured..
MUCH better than baby oil, IMHO


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

Thanks for all the replies. Didn't mean to take so long, but work and life
have been interfering with my woodworking! Sure beats being unemployed
though. ;-)

Making shavings is fun, but the *next* task is learning to sharpen the
starter-set HF chisels. Time to unpack the grinder.

-- Mark

Mark Jerde wrote:
Thanks for all the replies. Didn't mean to take so long, but work and life
have been interfering with my woodworking! Sure beats being unemployed
though. ;-)

Making shavings is fun, but the *next* task is learning to sharpen the
starter-set HF chisels. Time to unpack the grinder.

-- Mark


Mark
I realize this is an answer to a non question, but for your own sake
make or buy a sharpening jig. I just helped a mill right (sp?) with one
and he can sharpen anything else but considers lathe tools a whole new
ball game. On the other hand, you may want to spend time learning to
sharpen, not turning wood :-) Anyway, to blow my own horn and I have
nothing to sell, try this http://aroundthewoods.com/sharpening01.html

Darrell Feltmate
http://aroundthewoods.com/