Some sage advice from a member of the turning club
of which I am a member -

IF YOU'RE GOING TO SAND, USE SANDPAPER AS IF IT'S FREE.

Now think about how you use sandpaper.

Do you pay a bit more to get very uniform abrasive
particle sizes? Are you even aware of the different
grades of sandpaper, not "grits", but the degree of
uniformity of the particle sizes for a specific grit?
Doesn't take many particles of "190 grit" in your
"200 grit" paper to show.

When the piece of sandpaper you're sanding with
starts "loading up", do you chuck it and grab a
new one? Or do you try and wring every bit of
abrassive out of each piece 'til it stops cutting
and starts burnishing - or worse yet - burning?

If you've gotten to "320" and notice a ding you
missed, will you go back to 180 or even 150 to
get it out - or hope your finish will hide it?

Like all other forms of woodworking (OK so
maybe chainsaw carving is an exception), if
you're going to do a piece, start to finish,
EVERY step along the way will show in the
finished piece. If you have to sand, remeber
"Penny Wise, Pound Foolish"? Well that might
be another way of putting

IF YOU'RE GOING TO SAND, USE SANDPAPER AS IF IT'S FREE.

You'll be amazed at the finsih you can get
BEFORE you "apply a finish" - IF you take
this sage advice to heart.

Oh, and if "Abralon" doesn't mean anything to you
you might look into it. You'd be amazed how smooth
and shiny you can get a piece of wood.

charlie b

Charlie,

Hey, how do you know the quality of size consistency? Or how well a given
grit, in fact, cuts? Size might not mean the same as cutting ability.

Oh, and "Abralon" means nothing to me :-) Is it a brand? I guess I can
google it when I get a chance.

IMHO walnut tells the tale of good tool technique and sanding. Like a black
car versus white it shows everything. One catch seems to bruise the wood
deeply. And sanding sealer followed with Briwax has a fantastic feel and
sheen. Having a reversible and variable speed lathe sure helps get a great
finish if you're looking for more than OK. All the sanding isn't done in the
same direction and that seems best to show on endgrain.

Enjoy your posts, Charlie, keep up the good work.

TomNie


"charlieb" wrote in message
...
Some sage advice from a member of the turning club
of which I am a member -

IF YOU'RE GOING TO SAND, USE SANDPAPER AS IF IT'S FREE.

Now think about how you use sandpaper.

Do you pay a bit more to get very uniform abrasive
particle sizes? Are you even aware of the different
grades of sandpaper, not "grits", but the degree of
uniformity of the particle sizes for a specific grit?
Doesn't take many particles of "190 grit" in your
"200 grit" paper to show.

When the piece of sandpaper you're sanding with
starts "loading up", do you chuck it and grab a
new one? Or do you try and wring every bit of
abrassive out of each piece 'til it stops cutting
and starts burnishing - or worse yet - burning?

If you've gotten to "320" and notice a ding you
missed, will you go back to 180 or even 150 to
get it out - or hope your finish will hide it?

Like all other forms of woodworking (OK so
maybe chainsaw carving is an exception), if
you're going to do a piece, start to finish,
EVERY step along the way will show in the
finished piece. If you have to sand, remeber
"Penny Wise, Pound Foolish"? Well that might
be another way of putting

IF YOU'RE GOING TO SAND, USE SANDPAPER AS IF IT'S FREE.

You'll be amazed at the finsih you can get
BEFORE you "apply a finish" - IF you take
this sage advice to heart.

Oh, and if "Abralon" doesn't mean anything to you
you might look into it. You'd be amazed how smooth
and shiny you can get a piece of wood.

charlie b

Good one Charlie. I have to agree. Add in there that you should find a good
brand of sandpaper and stick with it. Cheap stuff is just that, cheap. Also,
every second grit, give the piece a run with 800 or so grit. It will show up
all those scratches that are still there for anything under 600. The first
two or three times you try it it is a real education.
---
God bless and safe turning
Darrell Feltmate
Truro, NS
http://aroundthewoods.com
http://roundopinions.blogspot.com

"charlieb" wrote in message
...
Some sage advice from a member of the turning club
of which I am a member -

IF YOU'RE GOING TO SAND, USE SANDPAPER AS IF IT'S FREE.

Now think about how you use sandpaper.

Do you pay a bit more to get very uniform abrasive
particle sizes? Are you even aware of the different
grades of sandpaper, not "grits", but the degree of
uniformity of the particle sizes for a specific grit?
Doesn't take many particles of "190 grit" in your
"200 grit" paper to show.

When the piece of sandpaper you're sanding with
starts "loading up", do you chuck it and grab a
new one? Or do you try and wring every bit of
abrassive out of each piece 'til it stops cutting
and starts burnishing - or worse yet - burning?

If you've gotten to "320" and notice a ding you
missed, will you go back to 180 or even 150 to
get it out - or hope your finish will hide it?

Like all other forms of woodworking (OK so
maybe chainsaw carving is an exception), if
you're going to do a piece, start to finish,
EVERY step along the way will show in the
finished piece. If you have to sand, remeber
"Penny Wise, Pound Foolish"? Well that might
be another way of putting

IF YOU'RE GOING TO SAND, USE SANDPAPER AS IF IT'S FREE.

You'll be amazed at the finsih you can get
BEFORE you "apply a finish" - IF you take
this sage advice to heart.

Oh, and if "Abralon" doesn't mean anything to you
you might look into it. You'd be amazed how smooth
and shiny you can get a piece of wood.

charlie b

The variation of that saying that I heard was "use the sandpaper like
some one else was buying it". As far as the best sanding discs that I
have found, the ones from www.VincesWoodNWonders.com. They are on a
plastic film, and have the most consistant grain of anything I have
used. They also outlast anything else that I have ever used about 2 to
1. No affiliation other than a happy customer. Also having a good
light really helps you see those marks that you don't spot until you
take it out in the sunlight to inspect the finish. One of the full
spectrum lights. As far as knowing when to throw a disc away, it has
taken a while for me to recoginze when, but when in doubt, I hit the
disc with one of the cleaning sticks, and then feel it with my
fingers. If it doesn't feel sharp, then toss it.
robo hippy

On Apr 26, 7:38 am, "Darrell Feltmate"
wrote:
Good one Charlie. I have to agree. Add in there that you should find a good
brand of sandpaper and stick with it. Cheap stuff is just that, cheap. Also,
every second grit, give the piece a run with 800 or so grit. It will show up
all those scratches that are still there for anything under 600. The first
two or three times you try it it is a real education.
---
God bless and safe turning
Darrell Feltmate
Truro, NShttp://aroundthewoods.comhttp://roundopinions.blogspot.com

"charlieb" wrote in message

...

Some sage advice from a member of the turning club
of which I am a member -

IF YOU'RE GOING TO SAND, USE SANDPAPER AS IF IT'S FREE.

Now think about how you use sandpaper.

Do you pay a bit more to get very uniform abrasive
particle sizes? Are you even aware of the different
grades of sandpaper, not "grits", but the degree of
uniformity of the particle sizes for a specific grit?
Doesn't take many particles of "190 grit" in your
"200 grit" paper to show.

When the piece of sandpaper you're sanding with
starts "loading up", do you chuck it and grab a
new one? Or do you try and wring every bit of
abrassive out of each piece 'til it stops cutting
and starts burnishing - or worse yet - burning?

If you've gotten to "320" and notice a ding you
missed, will you go back to 180 or even 150 to
get it out - or hope your finish will hide it?

Like all other forms of woodworking (OK so
maybe chainsaw carving is an exception), if
you're going to do a piece, start to finish,
EVERY step along the way will show in the
finished piece. If you have to sand, remeber
"Penny Wise, Pound Foolish"? Well that might
be another way of putting

IF YOU'RE GOING TO SAND, USE SANDPAPER AS IF IT'S FREE.

You'll be amazed at the finsih you can get
BEFORE you "apply a finish" - IF you take
this sage advice to heart.

Oh, and if "Abralon" doesn't mean anything to you
you might look into it. You'd be amazed how smooth
and shiny you can get a piece of wood.

charlie b

On 27 Apr 2007 08:44:26 -0700, robo hippy
wrote:

The variation of that saying that I heard was "use the sandpaper like
some one else was buying it". As far as the best sanding discs that I
have found, the ones from www.VincesWoodNWonders.com. They are on a
plastic film, and have the most consistant grain of anything I have
used. They also outlast anything else that I have ever used about 2 to
1. No affiliation other than a happy customer.

I've been using an ummm.... "Mini pistol grip pneumatic sander" (also
known as a right-angle die grinder to the rest of the world) for
power carving for a while now. I have been using the quick-lock
discs, but for close to $.50 each, they're quite an investment every
time I have to buy another box of them. They last long enough that
it's not putting me into the poorhouse, but they're still just a
little pricey.

The reason I mention this is because this velcro stuff is a whole lot
less expensive, and the sander he's selling appears to be a
standard-issue die grinder. Since I've already got two of them, I'm
wondering if you think they'd fit a standard 1/4" collet. Normally,
I'd assume that was the case, but the shanks look pretty thin in the
pictures.

Prometheus
I am using a variation on the 3M sanding/grinding system that sounds very
much like what you are using in the die grinder. The holders and sanding
disks and grinding pads are rated for 20,000 rpm at least, maybe more as I
recollect. I use a velcro pad system that I adapted. I am sure it would fit
the die grinder but I am not sure how well the Velcro would hold up to the
high heat of the die grinder rpm. The link for the system is
http://aroundthewoods.com/sanding.shtml
---
God bless and safe turning
Darrell Feltmate
Truro, NS
http://aroundthewoods.com
http://roundopinions.blogspot.com

"Prometheus" wrote in message
...
On 27 Apr 2007 08:44:26 -0700, robo hippy
wrote:

The variation of that saying that I heard was "use the sandpaper like
some one else was buying it". As far as the best sanding discs that I
have found, the ones from www.VincesWoodNWonders.com. They are on a
plastic film, and have the most consistant grain of anything I have
used. They also outlast anything else that I have ever used about 2 to
1. No affiliation other than a happy customer.

I've been using an ummm.... "Mini pistol grip pneumatic sander" (also
known as a right-angle die grinder to the rest of the world) for
power carving for a while now. I have been using the quick-lock
discs, but for close to $.50 each, they're quite an investment every
time I have to buy another box of them. They last long enough that
it's not putting me into the poorhouse, but they're still just a
little pricey.

The reason I mention this is because this velcro stuff is a whole lot
less expensive, and the sander he's selling appears to be a
standard-issue die grinder. Since I've already got two of them, I'm
wondering if you think they'd fit a standard 1/4" collet. Normally,
I'd assume that was the case, but the shanks look pretty thin in the
pictures.

On Sat, 28 Apr 2007 01:56:36 GMT, "Darrell Feltmate"
wrote:

Prometheus
I am using a variation on the 3M sanding/grinding system that sounds very
much like what you are using in the die grinder. The holders and sanding
disks and grinding pads are rated for 20,000 rpm at least, maybe more as I
recollect. I use a velcro pad system that I adapted. I am sure it would fit
the die grinder but I am not sure how well the Velcro would hold up to the
high heat of the die grinder rpm. The link for the system is
http://aroundthewoods.com/sanding.shtml

I would imagine that the RPMs would be similar- they're both air
turbines rated for 90 psi. I don't go all out when using it on wood,
either- usually, half speed is plenty to get the job done!

The 3M system is precisely what I am using, though I order the disks
through work in bulk. Grit assortment isn't nearly as important with
what I do, as I just use it for medium-level hogging after getting it
roughed out with a saw and drill. Final finish on my stuff is always
a chiseled surface or hand sanded. (The power carving is nice for
taking off a lot of material to reduce the risk of shearing off a bit
hunk of something you wanted to leave on, but not much beats a good
chisel for the fine work!)

I'll try out what you've got listed on your site- nice description and
instructions, btw! I've already got a couple of the holders, and I
think I've even got a little felt laying around somewhere, so it
should be easy enough to get together with a little velcro.

If I get really ambitious, I might turn some rubber on the lathe to
replace the felt as well. It's stinky, but works. I only know that
little tidbit because had a belt sander at work that had an unbalanced
tire a few weeks ago that was shaking the thing like crazy, and a
little temporary tool rest and a bit of sharpened scrap metal made
quick work of truing it. Might make for a good pad if I can find some
soft rubber, and be little easier to glue than felt.

I picked up a foam pad from the dollar store to try. It is about 3/4" thick
and designed as a float toy for the pool. It will be alot easier than felt.
---
God bless and safe turning
Darrell Feltmate
Truro, NS
http://aroundthewoods.com
http://roundopinions.blogspot.com

"Prometheus" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 28 Apr 2007 01:56:36 GMT, "Darrell Feltmate"
wrote:

Prometheus
I am using a variation on the 3M sanding/grinding system that sounds very
much like what you are using in the die grinder. The holders and sanding
disks and grinding pads are rated for 20,000 rpm at least, maybe more as I
recollect. I use a velcro pad system that I adapted. I am sure it would
fit
the die grinder but I am not sure how well the Velcro would hold up to the
high heat of the die grinder rpm. The link for the system is
http://aroundthewoods.com/sanding.shtml

I would imagine that the RPMs would be similar- they're both air
turbines rated for 90 psi. I don't go all out when using it on wood,
either- usually, half speed is plenty to get the job done!

The 3M system is precisely what I am using, though I order the disks
through work in bulk. Grit assortment isn't nearly as important with
what I do, as I just use it for medium-level hogging after getting it
roughed out with a saw and drill. Final finish on my stuff is always
a chiseled surface or hand sanded. (The power carving is nice for
taking off a lot of material to reduce the risk of shearing off a bit
hunk of something you wanted to leave on, but not much beats a good
chisel for the fine work!)

I'll try out what you've got listed on your site- nice description and
instructions, btw! I've already got a couple of the holders, and I
think I've even got a little felt laying around somewhere, so it
should be easy enough to get together with a little velcro.

If I get really ambitious, I might turn some rubber on the lathe to
replace the felt as well. It's stinky, but works. I only know that
little tidbit because had a belt sander at work that had an unbalanced
tire a few weeks ago that was shaking the thing like crazy, and a
little temporary tool rest and a bit of sharpened scrap metal made
quick work of truing it. Might make for a good pad if I can find some
soft rubber, and be little easier to glue than felt.

somewhat OT --- I don't know about you, but "use it like someone else was
buying it" tells me to use it up until it's totally dead so I don't wast
what someone else was paying for - whereas if I am buying it, I can toss it
when it's starting to get dull - in fact now that I think about it, I
actually resent that expression due to the disregard for value to others
that it implies - and yes, I've heard it and it annoys me every time.

"robo hippy" wrote in message
oups.com...
The variation of that saying that I heard was "use the sandpaper like
some one else was buying it".

snip------------o



--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

If you can find a place that makes wet/dry diving suits, they will usually
sell neoprene remanents and neoprene makes a great backing for velcro and
sticks well with a contact adhesive.

"Darrell Feltmate" wrote in message
news:lHFYh.13930$_G.7187@edtnps89...
I picked up a foam pad from the dollar store to try. It is about 3/4" thick
and designed as a float toy for the pool. It will be alot easier than
felt.
---
God bless and safe turning
Darrell Feltmate
Truro, NS
http://aroundthewoods.com
http://roundopinions.blogspot.com

"Prometheus" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 28 Apr 2007 01:56:36 GMT, "Darrell Feltmate"
wrote:

Prometheus
I am using a variation on the 3M sanding/grinding system that sounds very
much like what you are using in the die grinder. The holders and sanding
disks and grinding pads are rated for 20,000 rpm at least, maybe more as
I
recollect. I use a velcro pad system that I adapted. I am sure it would
fit
the die grinder but I am not sure how well the Velcro would hold up to
the
high heat of the die grinder rpm. The link for the system is
http://aroundthewoods.com/sanding.shtml

I would imagine that the RPMs would be similar- they're both air
turbines rated for 90 psi. I don't go all out when using it on wood,
either- usually, half speed is plenty to get the job done!

The 3M system is precisely what I am using, though I order the disks
through work in bulk. Grit assortment isn't nearly as important with
what I do, as I just use it for medium-level hogging after getting it
roughed out with a saw and drill. Final finish on my stuff is always
a chiseled surface or hand sanded. (The power carving is nice for
taking off a lot of material to reduce the risk of shearing off a bit
hunk of something you wanted to leave on, but not much beats a good
chisel for the fine work!)

I'll try out what you've got listed on your site- nice description and
instructions, btw! I've already got a couple of the holders, and I
think I've even got a little felt laying around somewhere, so it
should be easy enough to get together with a little velcro.

If I get really ambitious, I might turn some rubber on the lathe to
replace the felt as well. It's stinky, but works. I only know that
little tidbit because had a belt sander at work that had an unbalanced
tire a few weeks ago that was shaking the thing like crazy, and a
little temporary tool rest and a bit of sharpened scrap metal made
quick work of truing it. Might make for a good pad if I can find some
soft rubber, and be little easier to glue than felt.

On Sun, 29 Apr 2007 00:42:51 GMT, "Tom Storey"
wrote:

If you can find a place that makes wet/dry diving suits, they will usually
sell neoprene remanents and neoprene makes a great backing for velcro and
sticks well with a contact adhesive.

Not a bad suggestion, but I live about as far away from an ocean as
anyone can. Probably not a lot of diving suits around, though I
confess I've never really looked!

Hi Prometheus

I also live a long way from the ocean, but not far from the lakes,
there are all kinds of people that like to dive or sail and have wet/
dry suits.
There is a good chance you have a sporting store that carries the
suits, or a place that gives lessons for scuba divers, and they in
turn might know some persons that are active in the sport, connections
connections.
I got one from my sons FIL, he apparently hasn't (like many of
us ;-))), the same figure as he had some years ago, anyway he asked if
I had any interest in it (the suit), as they were moving out west and
didn't want to take it along, so now I have a complete suit missing
some small parts that have now found a new use, it also is a dandy
seal on the vacuum chuck.

Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo

On Apr 28, 9:22 pm, Prometheus wrote:
On Sun, 29 Apr 2007 00:42:51 GMT, "Tom Storey"
wrote:

If you can find a place that makes wet/dry diving suits, they will usually
sell neoprene remanents and neoprene makes a great backing for velcro and
sticks well with a contact adhesive.

Not a bad suggestion, but I live about as far away from an ocean as
anyone can. Probably not a lot of diving suits around, though I
confess I've never really looked!

Prometheus wrote:
On Sun, 29 Apr 2007 00:42:51 GMT, "Tom Storey"
wrote:

If you can find a place that makes wet/dry diving suits, they will usually
sell neoprene remanents and neoprene makes a great backing for velcro and
sticks well with a contact adhesive.

Not a bad suggestion, but I live about as far away from an ocean as
anyone can. Probably not a lot of diving suits around, though I
confess I've never really looked!

But I bet you live near a computer store. I have a foam wrist pad that
sits in front of the keyboard that's about an inch or so thick and 3"
wide. I've made several sanding disks with it and still have plenty
left over for more. Just a couple bucks...

....Kevin
--
Kevin Miller
http://www.alaska.net/~atftb
Juneau, Alaska
Registered Linux User No: 307357

On Apr 28, 7:12 pm, Kevin Miller wrote:
Prometheus wrote:
On Sun, 29 Apr 2007 00:42:51 GMT, "Tom Storey"
wrote:

If you can find a place that makes wet/dry diving suits, they will usually
sell neoprene remanents and neoprene makes a great backing for velcro and
sticks well with a contact adhesive.

Not a bad suggestion, but I live about as far away from an ocean as
If you check out Vinces site, he talks about sanding, and it got me
thinking. I have the slow speed Milwaukee/Sioux drills which go at
about 1200 rpm. He said that you should be sanding around 600 rpm. I
tried it, and it works just as well as the higher speeds: you get the
same amount of stock removal in the same amount of time, and the heat
is greatly reduced.
robo hippy

anyone can. Probably not a lot of diving suits around, though I
confess I've never really looked!

But I bet you live near a computer store. I have a foam wrist pad that
sits in front of the keyboard that's about an inch or so thick and 3"
wide. I've made several sanding disks with it and still have plenty
left over for more. Just a couple bucks...

...Kevin
--
Kevin Millerhttp://www.alaska.net/~atftb
Juneau, Alaska
Registered Linux User No: 307357

I would imagine that an old mouse pad would work as well for this
application.
"Kevin Miller" wrote in message
...
Prometheus wrote:
On Sun, 29 Apr 2007 00:42:51 GMT, "Tom Storey"
wrote:

If you can find a place that makes wet/dry diving suits, they will
usually
sell neoprene remanents and neoprene makes a great backing for velcro
and
sticks well with a contact adhesive.

Not a bad suggestion, but I live about as far away from an ocean as
anyone can. Probably not a lot of diving suits around, though I
confess I've never really looked!

But I bet you live near a computer store. I have a foam wrist pad that
sits in front of the keyboard that's about an inch or so thick and 3"
wide. I've made several sanding disks with it and still have plenty
left over for more. Just a couple bucks...

...Kevin
--
Kevin Miller
http://www.alaska.net/~atftb
Juneau, Alaska
Registered Linux User No: 307357

" wrote:

Hi Prometheus

I also live a long way from the ocean, but not far from the lakes,
there are all kinds of people that like to dive or sail and have wet/
dry suits.
There is a good chance you have a sporting store that carries the
suits, or a place that gives lessons for scuba divers, and they in
turn might know some persons that are active in the sport, connections
connections.
I got one from my sons FIL, he apparently hasn't (like many of
us ;-))), the same figure as he had some years ago, anyway he asked if
I had any interest in it (the suit), as they were moving out west and
didn't want to take it along, so now I have a complete suit missing
some small parts that have now found a new use, it also is a dandy
seal on the vacuum chuck.

Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo

On Apr 28, 9:22 pm, Prometheus wrote:
On Sun, 29 Apr 2007 00:42:51 GMT, "Tom Storey"
wrote:

If you can find a place that makes wet/dry diving suits, they will
usually sell neoprene remanents and neoprene makes a great backing
for velcro and sticks well with a contact adhesive.

Not a bad suggestion, but I live about as far away from an ocean as
anyone can. Probably not a lot of diving suits around, though I
confess I've never really looked!




I have to post this for my good wife who wonders why I keep so much
'junk'.

"But it's broken, you'll never use it!"

"I might need some of the parts someday." (whining)

I do agree with you on that Reed, also less heat checks and my velcro
and sanding disks last longer, I have an cheap B&D one speed 1500rpm
drill and also a Milwaukee, use the Milwaukee only if I can't do the
job with the B&D, it's loud and squeaks a lot and than gets the oil,
it's still running, I'm looking for another cheap one, as this one is
not going to last much longer I'm afraid.
Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo

On Apr 28, 10:28 pm, robo hippy wrote:
On Apr 28, 7:12 pm, Kevin Miller wrote: Prometheus wrote:
On Sun, 29 Apr 2007 00:42:51 GMT, "Tom Storey"
wrote:

If you can find a place that makes wet/dry diving suits, they will usually
sell neoprene remanents and neoprene makes a great backing for velcro and
sticks well with a contact adhesive.

Not a bad suggestion, but I live about as far away from an ocean as

If you check out Vinces site, he talks about sanding, and it got me
thinking. I have the slow speed Milwaukee/Sioux drills which go at
about 1200 rpm. He said that you should be sanding around 600 rpm. I
tried it, and it works just as well as the higher speeds: you get the
same amount of stock removal in the same amount of time, and the heat
is greatly reduced.
robo hippy

anyone can. Probably not a lot of diving suits around, though I
confess I've never really looked!

But I bet you live near a computer store. I have a foam wrist pad that
sits in front of the keyboard that's about an inch or so thick and 3"
wide. I've made several sanding disks with it and still have plenty
left over for more. Just a couple bucks...

...Kevin
--
Kevin Millerhttp://www.alaska.net/~atftb
Juneau, Alaska
Registered Linux User No: 307357

On 28 Apr 2007 19:28:13 -0700, robo hippy
wrote:

If you check out Vinces site, he talks about sanding, and it got me
thinking. I have the slow speed Milwaukee/Sioux drills which go at
about 1200 rpm. He said that you should be sanding around 600 rpm. I
tried it, and it works just as well as the higher speeds: you get the
same amount of stock removal in the same amount of time, and the heat
is greatly reduced.

I do believe that- I used to sand stuff on the lathe as fast as
possible, but after trying it at a slower speed one day, I now do it
all at 300 RPM. Less heat, and the paper lasts longer.

Perhaps the higher speed of the die grinder means I ought to stick
with the 3M discs that are designed for that. To get a pnuematic tool
that slow (at least, my pnuematic grinder) you have to give up pretty
much all of it's torque.

I'll try it out, and see which one works better- if the velcro rig
just isn't up to the speed, I can stick with what I've got, because it
is working.

In article ,
"steven raphael" wrote:

I would imagine that an old mouse pad would work as well for this
application.

Exactly

--
--------------------------------------------------------
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Ralph E Lindberg wrote:
In article ,
"steven raphael" wrote:

I would imagine that an old mouse pad would work as well for this
application.

Exactly

I've used those too, but they're only a quarter inch thick or so. I
like having three or four times that much padding as a rule. Just
personal preference however - nothing that says a mouse pad is wrong...

....Kevin
--
Kevin Miller
http://www.alaska.net/~atftb
Juneau, Alaska
Registered Linux User No: 307357

Another hint from Vince was to use a firm pad for the lower grits, up
to 180 or 220, then switch to the soft pads. His firm pads have a 1/4
round edge rather than the square edge that is standard.
robo hippy

On Apr 29, 1:31 pm, Kevin Miller wrote:
Ralph E Lindberg wrote:
In article ,
"steven raphael" wrote:

I would imagine that an old mouse pad would work as well for this
application.

Exactly

I've used those too, but they're only a quarter inch thick or so. I
like having three or four times that much padding as a rule. Just
personal preference however - nothing that says a mouse pad is wrong...

...Kevin
--
Kevin Millerhttp://www.alaska.net/~atftb
Juneau, Alaska
Registered Linux User No: 307357

"robo hippy" wrote in message
oups.com...
Another hint from Vince was to use a firm pad for the lower grits, up
to 180 or 220, then switch to the soft pads. His firm pads have a 1/4
round edge rather than the square edge that is standard.
robo hippy


Sounds like an excellent choice. Been using the same principle for years.
Power Locks followed by Velcro foam backed.

Of course, sandpaper isn't free, which is why I will go to an extra
sharpening to avoid using it.

Good original post and responses. I've come to love Norton's 3x Premium
paper. Seems to be graded very well compared to the Klingspor junk I used
to use and it does last a long time and resists clogging. I agree that
sandpaper is the last place a woodturner should cheap out.
Tony Manella
ndd1"at"prolog.net (remove "at")
http://home.ptd.net/~ndd1/
Lehigh Valley Woodturners

"charlieb" wrote in message
...
Some sage advice from a member of the turning club
of which I am a member -

IF YOU'RE GOING TO SAND, USE SANDPAPER AS IF IT'S FREE.

Now think about how you use sandpaper.

Do you pay a bit more to get very uniform abrasive
particle sizes? Are you even aware of the different
grades of sandpaper, not "grits", but the degree of
uniformity of the particle sizes for a specific grit?
Doesn't take many particles of "190 grit" in your
"200 grit" paper to show.

When the piece of sandpaper you're sanding with
starts "loading up", do you chuck it and grab a
new one? Or do you try and wring every bit of
abrassive out of each piece 'til it stops cutting
and starts burnishing - or worse yet - burning?

If you've gotten to "320" and notice a ding you
missed, will you go back to 180 or even 150 to
get it out - or hope your finish will hide it?

Like all other forms of woodworking (OK so
maybe chainsaw carving is an exception), if
you're going to do a piece, start to finish,
EVERY step along the way will show in the
finished piece. If you have to sand, remeber
"Penny Wise, Pound Foolish"? Well that might
be another way of putting

IF YOU'RE GOING TO SAND, USE SANDPAPER AS IF IT'S FREE.

You'll be amazed at the finsih you can get
BEFORE you "apply a finish" - IF you take
this sage advice to heart.

Oh, and if "Abralon" doesn't mean anything to you
you might look into it. You'd be amazed how smooth
and shiny you can get a piece of wood.

charlie b

I have used the Klingspoor red and white aluminum oxide, and the
Norton 3x, and the yellow, the wave,and just about everything else.
Vinces discs are 2 3/8, and 3 3/8 inch disce, and the 3 inch discs
were $10 per 50, but I think the prices went up a bit. Really, they
are better than anything I have ever used. Again, I am a happy
customer.
robo hippy

On Apr 30, 6:23 am, "TonyM" tonym.le"at"comcast.net wrote:
Good original post and responses. I've come to love Norton's 3x Premium
paper. Seems to be graded very well compared to the Klingspor junk I used
to use and it does last a long time and resists clogging. I agree that
sandpaper is the last place a woodturner should cheap out.
Tony Manella
ndd1"at"prolog.net (remove "at")http://home.ptd.net/~ndd1/
Lehigh Valley Woodturners

"charlieb" wrote in message

...

Some sage advice from a member of the turning club
of which I am a member -

IF YOU'RE GOING TO SAND, USE SANDPAPER AS IF IT'S FREE.

Now think about how you use sandpaper.

Do you pay a bit more to get very uniform abrasive
particle sizes? Are you even aware of the different
grades of sandpaper, not "grits", but the degree of
uniformity of the particle sizes for a specific grit?
Doesn't take many particles of "190 grit" in your
"200 grit" paper to show.

When the piece of sandpaper you're sanding with
starts "loading up", do you chuck it and grab a
new one? Or do you try and wring every bit of
abrassive out of each piece 'til it stops cutting
and starts burnishing - or worse yet - burning?

If you've gotten to "320" and notice a ding you
missed, will you go back to 180 or even 150 to
get it out - or hope your finish will hide it?

Like all other forms of woodworking (OK so
maybe chainsaw carving is an exception), if
you're going to do a piece, start to finish,
EVERY step along the way will show in the
finished piece. If you have to sand, remeber
"Penny Wise, Pound Foolish"? Well that might
be another way of putting

IF YOU'RE GOING TO SAND, USE SANDPAPER AS IF IT'S FREE.

You'll be amazed at the finsih you can get
BEFORE you "apply a finish" - IF you take
this sage advice to heart.

Oh, and if "Abralon" doesn't mean anything to you
you might look into it. You'd be amazed how smooth
and shiny you can get a piece of wood.

charlie b

I have had great service and results from Royce Sales in Ontario. They have
a full range of sanding products and stand behind their products. No
affiliation et. etc. but they do have some of my cash :-)
http://store.sandpaper.ca/catalogue/default.php

---
God bless and safe turning
Darrell Feltmate
Truro, NS
http://aroundthewoods.com
http://roundopinions.blogspot.com

"robo hippy" wrote in message
ups.com...
I have used the Klingspoor red and white aluminum oxide, and the
Norton 3x, and the yellow, the wave,and just about everything else.
Vinces discs are 2 3/8, and 3 3/8 inch disce, and the 3 inch discs
were $10 per 50, but I think the prices went up a bit. Really, they
are better than anything I have ever used. Again, I am a happy
customer.
robo hippy

On Apr 30, 6:23 am, "TonyM" tonym.le"at"comcast.net wrote:
Good original post and responses. I've come to love Norton's 3x Premium
paper. Seems to be graded very well compared to the Klingspor junk I
used
to use and it does last a long time and resists clogging. I agree that
sandpaper is the last place a woodturner should cheap out.
Tony Manella
ndd1"at"prolog.net (remove "at")http://home.ptd.net/~ndd1/
Lehigh Valley Woodturners

"charlieb" wrote in message

...

Some sage advice from a member of the turning club
of which I am a member -

IF YOU'RE GOING TO SAND, USE SANDPAPER AS IF IT'S FREE.

Now think about how you use sandpaper.

Do you pay a bit more to get very uniform abrasive
particle sizes? Are you even aware of the different
grades of sandpaper, not "grits", but the degree of
uniformity of the particle sizes for a specific grit?
Doesn't take many particles of "190 grit" in your
"200 grit" paper to show.

When the piece of sandpaper you're sanding with
starts "loading up", do you chuck it and grab a
new one? Or do you try and wring every bit of
abrassive out of each piece 'til it stops cutting
and starts burnishing - or worse yet - burning?

If you've gotten to "320" and notice a ding you
missed, will you go back to 180 or even 150 to
get it out - or hope your finish will hide it?

Like all other forms of woodworking (OK so
maybe chainsaw carving is an exception), if
you're going to do a piece, start to finish,
EVERY step along the way will show in the
finished piece. If you have to sand, remeber
"Penny Wise, Pound Foolish"? Well that might
be another way of putting

IF YOU'RE GOING TO SAND, USE SANDPAPER AS IF IT'S FREE.

You'll be amazed at the finsih you can get
BEFORE you "apply a finish" - IF you take
this sage advice to heart.

Oh, and if "Abralon" doesn't mean anything to you
you might look into it. You'd be amazed how smooth
and shiny you can get a piece of wood.

charlie b

Thanks Darrell, I'll take a look at their site.
Tony Manella

"Darrell Feltmate" wrote in message
news:IpoZh.14490$JF6.12100@edtnps90...
I have had great service and results from Royce Sales in Ontario. They have
a full range of sanding products and stand behind their products. No
affiliation et. etc. but they do have some of my cash :-)
http://store.sandpaper.ca/catalogue/default.php

---
God bless and safe turning
Darrell Feltmate
Truro, NS
http://aroundthewoods.com
http://roundopinions.blogspot.com

"robo hippy" wrote in message
ups.com...
I have used the Klingspoor red and white aluminum oxide, and the
Norton 3x, and the yellow, the wave,and just about everything else.
Vinces discs are 2 3/8, and 3 3/8 inch disce, and the 3 inch discs
were $10 per 50, but I think the prices went up a bit. Really, they
are better than anything I have ever used. Again, I am a happy
customer.
robo hippy

On Apr 30, 6:23 am, "TonyM" tonym.le"at"comcast.net wrote:
Good original post and responses. I've come to love Norton's 3x Premium
paper. Seems to be graded very well compared to the Klingspor junk I
used
to use and it does last a long time and resists clogging. I agree that
sandpaper is the last place a woodturner should cheap out.
Tony Manella
ndd1"at"prolog.net (remove "at")http://home.ptd.net/~ndd1/
Lehigh Valley Woodturners

"charlieb" wrote in message

...

Some sage advice from a member of the turning club
of which I am a member -

IF YOU'RE GOING TO SAND, USE SANDPAPER AS IF IT'S FREE.

Now think about how you use sandpaper.

Do you pay a bit more to get very uniform abrasive
particle sizes? Are you even aware of the different
grades of sandpaper, not "grits", but the degree of
uniformity of the particle sizes for a specific grit?
Doesn't take many particles of "190 grit" in your
"200 grit" paper to show.

When the piece of sandpaper you're sanding with
starts "loading up", do you chuck it and grab a
new one? Or do you try and wring every bit of
abrassive out of each piece 'til it stops cutting
and starts burnishing - or worse yet - burning?

If you've gotten to "320" and notice a ding you
missed, will you go back to 180 or even 150 to
get it out - or hope your finish will hide it?

Like all other forms of woodworking (OK so
maybe chainsaw carving is an exception), if
you're going to do a piece, start to finish,
EVERY step along the way will show in the
finished piece. If you have to sand, remeber
"Penny Wise, Pound Foolish"? Well that might
be another way of putting

IF YOU'RE GOING TO SAND, USE SANDPAPER AS IF IT'S FREE.

You'll be amazed at the finsih you can get
BEFORE you "apply a finish" - IF you take
this sage advice to heart.

Oh, and if "Abralon" doesn't mean anything to you
you might look into it. You'd be amazed how smooth
and shiny you can get a piece of wood.

charlie b