Rough hollowing and cleaning out large end grain blanks is getting to be
more chore than fun. Even with two toolrests and a cobbled up
restraining device, my armbrace and long 3/4" boring bar is getting
heavier by the day and I'm running out of aspirin. Still I don't want to
buy an expensive large hollowing system.

Very large expansion bits are expensive and limited in use so drilling
out large amounts of waste isn't feasible, but would machine boring be.
I see by the latest HF flyer that they have a cross slide with vise on
sale for $30.00. travel cross 5 3/4", longitudinal 6 3/4" , overall
ht. 6", wt. 32 lbs. It's probably very sloppy and bulky, but with a
cobbled easily moved bed clamp and packing to center the boring bits and
maybe an added shopmade swivel, that shouldn't matter. Or should it?

Of course I'd have to drill a hole for the boring bar and form and
finish the interior walls after the rough hollowing and I probably would
need a wide entry. Also there would be a lot of cranking and moving the
cross slide. If the idea was any good, I reckon everybody would be
boring out the bulk of their hollow forms.

This is all from my armchair with no actual experience other than boring
metal, which isn't comparable. Before I buy the cross slide just to add
to my stable of workable but impractical HF 'adaptions' such as tailpipe
expander pin chucks, venturi vacuum systems, black iron pipe do-dads
etc. etc., some questions:

1. Would boring like machinist do, work? 2. Would it be easier to use
and less strain on my arms & shoulders than the armbrace? 3. Anybody
doing this?
4, Your general opinion, cautions, etc. Don't spare me
5. A simple better way other than sending me to the turning accessory
suppliers.


Turn to Safety, Arch
Fortiter


http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings

In article ,
(Arch) wrote:

Rough hollowing and cleaning out large end grain blanks is getting to be
more chore than fun. Even with two toolrests and a cobbled up
....
5. A simple better way other than sending me to the turning accessory
suppliers.

A set of large Forstner bits and a drill chuck mounted in the tailstock.
Brief search finds Forstners up to 4-1/2 inches, and they are a lot
faster than fussing with a boring bar setup. There may well be bigger
ones available, the search was not extensive. With a hole of up to 4-1/2
inches to start from, any further hollowing could be done sidegrain
rather than endgrain, and would thus be easier cutting. Be careful when
working with such large bits...

Otherwise, sure, you can use a boring bar as for metal on wood. Tedious,
but it would put the strain on the machinery, rather than on you. Would
be slightly less tedious with a power feed, as on a metalworking lathe.

--
Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by

Hi Arch

Maybe you have to get yourself a good old metal lathe, you surely could
clamp a boring bar onto on of those.
I (we) know at least one goofy that uses a metal lathe to turn wood,
GG :-))

Then again, a milling/turning combo machine might be in your future
??????? TIC ;-

Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo

Arch wrote:
Rough hollowing and cleaning out large end grain blanks is getting to be
more chore than fun. Even with two toolrests and a cobbled up
restraining device, my armbrace and long 3/4" boring bar is getting
heavier by the day and I'm running out of aspirin. Still I don't want to
buy an expensive large hollowing system.

Very large expansion bits are expensive and limited in use so drilling
out large amounts of waste isn't feasible, but would machine boring be.
I see by the latest HF flyer that they have a cross slide with vise on
sale for $30.00. travel cross 5 3/4", longitudinal 6 3/4" , overall
ht. 6", wt. 32 lbs. It's probably very sloppy and bulky, but with a
cobbled easily moved bed clamp and packing to center the boring bits and
maybe an added shopmade swivel, that shouldn't matter. Or should it?

Of course I'd have to drill a hole for the boring bar and form and
finish the interior walls after the rough hollowing and I probably would
need a wide entry. Also there would be a lot of cranking and moving the
cross slide. If the idea was any good, I reckon everybody would be
boring out the bulk of their hollow forms.

This is all from my armchair with no actual experience other than boring
metal, which isn't comparable. Before I buy the cross slide just to add
to my stable of workable but impractical HF 'adaptions' such as tailpipe
expander pin chucks, venturi vacuum systems, black iron pipe do-dads
etc. etc., some questions:

1. Would boring like machinist do, work? 2. Would it be easier to use
and less strain on my arms & shoulders than the armbrace? 3. Anybody
doing this?
4, Your general opinion, cautions, etc. Don't spare me
5. A simple better way other than sending me to the turning accessory
suppliers.


Turn to Safety, Arch
Fortiter


http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings

Ecnerwal wrote:

A set of large Forstner bits and a drill chuck mounted in the tailstock.
Brief search finds Forstners up to 4-1/2 inches, and they are a lot
faster than fussing with a boring bar setup. There may well be bigger
ones available, the search was not extensive. With a hole of up to 4-1/2
inches to start from, any further hollowing could be done sidegrain
rather than endgrain, and would thus be easier cutting. Be careful when
working with such large bits...


I'm thinking that forstners are maybe too short. I've got the obligatory
set of them and I don't think the shanks are much more than three inches or
so. They'd do fine for shallow objects - I've used them for that - but I've
never seen Long forstners, say 6-12 inches.

When I turn hollow forms I start by first shaping the outside then
drilling the center.

For drilling I find that an auger works best. A forstner is good but
slow. If needed I put on an extension. As I'm going to remove much
more material than the initial hole I don't care about a clean hole only
getting started so I can get a gouge inside. The only problem with an
auger is including the tip in depth estimates. Once I've hollowed out
then I remove the center cone in the bottom with a forstner then smooth
with my hollowing tool.

Arch wrote:
Rough hollowing and cleaning out large end grain blanks is getting to be
more chore than fun. Even with two toolrests and a cobbled up
restraining device, my armbrace and long 3/4" boring bar is getting
heavier by the day and I'm running out of aspirin. Still I don't want to
buy an expensive large hollowing system.

Very large expansion bits are expensive and limited in use so drilling
out large amounts of waste isn't feasible, but would machine boring be.
I see by the latest HF flyer that they have a cross slide with vise on
sale for $30.00. travel cross 5 3/4", longitudinal 6 3/4" , overall
ht. 6", wt. 32 lbs. It's probably very sloppy and bulky, but with a
cobbled easily moved bed clamp and packing to center the boring bits and
maybe an added shopmade swivel, that shouldn't matter. Or should it?

Of course I'd have to drill a hole for the boring bar and form and
finish the interior walls after the rough hollowing and I probably would
need a wide entry. Also there would be a lot of cranking and moving the
cross slide. If the idea was any good, I reckon everybody would be
boring out the bulk of their hollow forms.

This is all from my armchair with no actual experience other than boring
metal, which isn't comparable. Before I buy the cross slide just to add
to my stable of workable but impractical HF 'adaptions' such as tailpipe
expander pin chucks, venturi vacuum systems, black iron pipe do-dads
etc. etc., some questions:

1. Would boring like machinist do, work? 2. Would it be easier to use
and less strain on my arms & shoulders than the armbrace? 3. Anybody
doing this?
4, Your general opinion, cautions, etc. Don't spare me
5. A simple better way other than sending me to the turning accessory
suppliers.


Turn to Safety, Arch
Fortiter


http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings

Arch wrote:

Rough hollowing and cleaning out large end grain blanks is getting to be
more chore than fun. Even with two toolrests and a cobbled up
restraining device, my armbrace and long 3/4" boring bar is getting
heavier by the day and I'm running out of aspirin. Still I don't want to
buy an expensive large hollowing system.

Very large expansion bits are expensive and limited in use so drilling
out large amounts of waste isn't feasible, but would machine boring be.
I see by the latest HF flyer that they have a cross slide with vise on
sale for $30.00. travel cross 5 3/4", longitudinal 6 3/4" , overall
ht. 6", wt. 32 lbs. It's probably very sloppy and bulky, but with a
cobbled easily moved bed clamp and packing to center the boring bits and
maybe an added shopmade swivel, that shouldn't matter. Or should it?

Of course I'd have to drill a hole for the boring bar and form and
finish the interior walls after the rough hollowing and I probably would
need a wide entry. Also there would be a lot of cranking and moving the
cross slide. If the idea was any good, I reckon everybody would be
boring out the bulk of their hollow forms.

This is all from my armchair with no actual experience other than boring
metal, which isn't comparable. Before I buy the cross slide just to add
to my stable of workable but impractical HF 'adaptions' such as tailpipe
expander pin chucks, venturi vacuum systems, black iron pipe do-dads
etc. etc., some questions:

1. Would boring like machinist do, work? 2. Would it be easier to use
and less strain on my arms & shoulders than the armbrace? 3. Anybody
doing this?
4, Your general opinion, cautions, etc. Don't spare me
5. A simple better way other than sending me to the turning accessory
suppliers.


Turn to Safety, Arch
Fortiter


http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings

I generally use Forstner bits for items other than bowls. If I need a 4"
hole I start with a 4" bit just deep enough to get a guide hole, maybe
1/4 inch. It is slow. Then I change to a 3 inch bit and do the same,
then 2 inch, etc. The smallest size is driven to the calculated depth
then the next smallest. When I get back to the largest bit it doesn't
have to remove as much material and goes right in. Making a stepped cone
hole like this allows the bit to reach farther on the smaller bit
because there is room for the entire bit and most of the chuck. Just
watch the chuck closely on backing out. I once pulled the jacobs chuck
off its taper while backing out and such a racket it made as the turning
blank held the bit and slung the chuck around against the ways. A real
poor man's stress test.


--
Gerald Ross
Cochran, GA

A good scare is worth more to a man
than good advice.





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extenders for the forstner is also available. Just make sure you get
the one with 4 set screws to hold the shaft in place.

Larry Blanchard wrote:
Lobby Dosser wrote:


I'm thinking that forstners are maybe too short. I've got the obligatory
set of them and I don't think the shanks are much more than three inches or
so. They'd do fine for shallow objects - I've used them for that - but I've
never seen Long forstners, say 6-12 inches.


Someone (Craft Supplies?) sells a Morse taper extender. Could you drill to
the depth of the Forstner, put the extender between the drill chuck and the
tailstock, and drill another 5 inches or so?

Do you hand feed the auger bit or put it in the tail stock. I thought
augers were self feeding especially if doing it by hand.

Bruce

william kossack wrote:
When I turn hollow forms I start by first shaping the outside then
drilling the center.

For drilling I find that an auger works best. A forstner is good but
slow. If needed I put on an extension. As I'm going to remove much
more material than the initial hole I don't care about a clean hole only
getting started so I can get a gouge inside. The only problem with an
auger is including the tip in depth estimates. Once I've hollowed out
then I remove the center cone in the bottom with a forstner then smooth
with my hollowing tool.

Arch wrote:
Rough hollowing and cleaning out large end grain blanks is getting to be
more chore than fun. Even with two toolrests and a cobbled up
restraining device, my armbrace and long 3/4" boring bar is getting
heavier by the day and I'm running out of aspirin. Still I don't want to
buy an expensive large hollowing system.

Very large expansion bits are expensive and limited in use so drilling
out large amounts of waste isn't feasible, but would machine boring be.
I see by the latest HF flyer that they have a cross slide with vise on
sale for $30.00. travel cross 5 3/4", longitudinal 6 3/4" , overall
ht. 6", wt. 32 lbs. It's probably very sloppy and bulky, but with a
cobbled easily moved bed clamp and packing to center the boring bits and
maybe an added shopmade swivel, that shouldn't matter. Or should it?

Of course I'd have to drill a hole for the boring bar and form and
finish the interior walls after the rough hollowing and I probably would
need a wide entry. Also there would be a lot of cranking and moving the
cross slide. If the idea was any good, I reckon everybody would be
boring out the bulk of their hollow forms.

This is all from my armchair with no actual experience other than boring
metal, which isn't comparable. Before I buy the cross slide just to add
to my stable of workable but impractical HF 'adaptions' such as tailpipe
expander pin chucks, venturi vacuum systems, black iron pipe do-dads
etc. etc., some questions:
1. Would boring like machinist do, work? 2. Would it be easier to use
and less strain on my arms & shoulders than the armbrace? 3. Anybody
doing this? 4, Your general opinion, cautions, etc. Don't spare me
5. A simple better way other than sending me to the turning accessory
suppliers.
Turn to Safety, Arch
Fortiter


http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings

I do use incremental sizes up to 1 1/2" of both spade and forstner bits
along with a stout extender to open the hole and set the depth before
using arm rest and an inserted _cutting_ bit.

Most bit shaft extenders are flimsy and the more robust spindle
extenders extend the chuck which if the hole is big enough for it to
enter you _may_ not need the extender. Or as Yogi said, "If you don't
have it, that's why you need it!".

I would think in a home shop set up, the torque on 5 to 6 in. and larger
augers, saw tooths. spades and Forstners that cut the entire radius as
they progress into dry end grain would likely overstress the bit and its
shaft, the chuck and its Jarno & Morse tapers and generate excessive
heat. I may be wrong, but I wonder if anyone here drills out deep 5+"
holes in hard dry end grain without the tedium of going thru the sizes.

I think the size of the vase's orifice would limit the useful size of a
drill bit, while a boring bar bit could be extended or swivelled to make
the blank's internal diameter greater than the entry.

Eh Leo, does my 9" Sheldon qualify?


Turn to Safety, Arch
Fortiter


http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings

Arch, what size hole are you making? You didn't say. Is this for hollow
forms, end grain bowls, wide mouth vessels, or what? How deep do you need
to go, and how wide is the mouth? -mike

I put it into a Jacob's chuck in the tail stock and turn the speed of
the lathe way down. I've had the bits get hot enough to char dry wood
so I drill for a bit then back out. They do self feed. I've had the
jacobs chuck pull out of the tail stock.

Bruce Ferguson wrote:
Do you hand feed the auger bit or put it in the tail stock. I thought
augers were self feeding especially if doing it by hand.

Bruce

william kossack wrote:

When I turn hollow forms I start by first shaping the outside then
drilling the center.

For drilling I find that an auger works best. A forstner is good but
slow. If needed I put on an extension. As I'm going to remove much
more material than the initial hole I don't care about a clean hole
only getting started so I can get a gouge inside. The only problem
with an auger is including the tip in depth estimates. Once I've
hollowed out then I remove the center cone in the bottom with a
forstner then smooth with my hollowing tool.

Arch wrote:

Rough hollowing and cleaning out large end grain blanks is getting to be
more chore than fun. Even with two toolrests and a cobbled up
restraining device, my armbrace and long 3/4" boring bar is getting
heavier by the day and I'm running out of aspirin. Still I don't want to
buy an expensive large hollowing system.

Very large expansion bits are expensive and limited in use so drilling
out large amounts of waste isn't feasible, but would machine boring be.
I see by the latest HF flyer that they have a cross slide with vise on
sale for $30.00. travel cross 5 3/4", longitudinal 6 3/4" , overall
ht. 6", wt. 32 lbs. It's probably very sloppy and bulky, but with a
cobbled easily moved bed clamp and packing to center the boring bits and
maybe an added shopmade swivel, that shouldn't matter. Or should it?

Of course I'd have to drill a hole for the boring bar and form and
finish the interior walls after the rough hollowing and I probably would
need a wide entry. Also there would be a lot of cranking and moving the
cross slide. If the idea was any good, I reckon everybody would be
boring out the bulk of their hollow forms.

This is all from my armchair with no actual experience other than boring
metal, which isn't comparable. Before I buy the cross slide just to add
to my stable of workable but impractical HF 'adaptions' such as tailpipe
expander pin chucks, venturi vacuum systems, black iron pipe do-dads
etc. etc., some questions: 1. Would boring like machinist do, work?
2. Would it be easier to use
and less strain on my arms & shoulders than the armbrace? 3. Anybody
doing this? 4, Your general opinion, cautions, etc. Don't spare me
5. A simple better way other than sending me to the turning
accessory
suppliers.
Turn to Safety, Arch
Fortiter


http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings

One problem with longer drills is the bit can get choked with shavings.

As a result I will drill about half way up the shaft of the bit then
remove material with a gouge to open up the hole. Then I'll drill some
more. I've done vases as deep as 12 inches using an auger and a bit
extender. The trick is to take it slow watch for heating of the bit and
don't over drill past your planned bottom. I suppose you could use a
series of different sizes to solve this problem but I find I don't like
taking the time to change bits and a gouge against the side grain inside
a 1 inch wide hole removes material very effectively.



Arch wrote:
I do use incremental sizes up to 1 1/2" of both spade and forstner bits
along with a stout extender to open the hole and set the depth before
using arm rest and an inserted _cutting_ bit.

Most bit shaft extenders are flimsy and the more robust spindle
extenders extend the chuck which if the hole is big enough for it to
enter you _may_ not need the extender. Or as Yogi said, "If you don't
have it, that's why you need it!".

I would think in a home shop set up, the torque on 5 to 6 in. and larger
augers, saw tooths. spades and Forstners that cut the entire radius as
they progress into dry end grain would likely overstress the bit and its
shaft, the chuck and its Jarno & Morse tapers and generate excessive
heat. I may be wrong, but I wonder if anyone here drills out deep 5+"
holes in hard dry end grain without the tedium of going thru the sizes.

I think the size of the vase's orifice would limit the useful size of a
drill bit, while a boring bar bit could be extended or swivelled to make
the blank's internal diameter greater than the entry.

Eh Leo, does my 9" Sheldon qualify?


Turn to Safety, Arch
Fortiter


http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings

Hi Mike, I had no specific size or form in mind except at least as deep
and closed in hard end grain that an armbrace with perhaps a 12" X 3/4"
shaft would be called for. I've long used this set up and have used
various add ons (extra tool rests, restraining rests, swivelling cups,
side handles and 'Y's welded to the shanks) for supporting and
controlling long heavy tool shanks.

Being a tinkerer, I wondered about the utility of adapting a cheap
version of a machinist's boring bar set up & technique to a wood lathe
to substitute for the armbrace/long heavy shank method. I wasn't musing
about the hole for the boring bar, just thinking of another way to get
rid of a lot of closed in waste wood.




Turn to Safety, Arch
Fortiter


http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings

"Arch" wrote in message
...
Rough hollowing and cleaning out large end grain blanks is getting to be
more chore than fun. Even with two toolrests and a cobbled up
restraining device, my armbrace and long 3/4" boring bar is getting
heavier by the day and I'm running out of aspirin. Still I don't want to
buy an expensive large hollowing system.

So turn bowls or something for a break.

Fastest rough hollowing I've found is a pointy gouge. You could use a
metal-spinner's rest with the pin to _really_ hog on it if you care to. You
do have one of those, or a pivoting gate for that hollower, right? If not,
try it. Experiment by putting a C-clamp on the rest to bear against. Seems
to take a lot of strange stress off the AV joint.

George suggests in good natured humor that I turn bowls or something for
a break, but that doesn't answer the op subject. I do turn bowls, but
not for a break. I do that by canoeing & reading. I was merely wondering
out loud about trying a different turning technique. I think there is a
place on rcw for wondering, but maybe not.

Reporting my usually impractical or silly tinkerings is perhaps tiresome
or even counterproductive in a largely Q&A forum and it's certainly not
comparable, but I'm glad that David Ellsworth didn't give up on making
small mouth hollow forms or Roy Child abandon deepening his round shaft
gouge flutes or many turners didn't reject sweeping their short bevels
back.


Turn to Safety, Arch
Fortiter


http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings

(Arch) wrote:

Reporting my usually impractical or silly tinkerings is perhaps tiresome
or even counterproductive in a largely Q&A forum and it's certainly not
comparable, but I'm glad that David Ellsworth didn't give up on making
small mouth hollow forms or Roy Child abandon deepening his round shaft
gouge flutes or many turners didn't reject sweeping their short bevels
back.



What about spoon bits?

Hi Arch

I get the feeling that you are not willing to use your nice little
sheldon for that, but yes you could, just keep the sizes within the
range the lathe can handle.

However as a mental exercise in finding a possible way of using your
x-y, yes I think you could use the x-y vice, you would have to
fabricate some kind of base that you can clamp down to the lathe and
have your vice fastened to that, the hight would have to be kept in
mind, so that the boring bars toolbit could be set at centre hight+.
And to take away the problem of the "sloppy" fit of the vise, I would
use the regular tool rest right close to the wood to be turned, however
with a small opening you would need a hollowing bar with a articulating
end on it so you can compensate for the inability of swinging the
boring bar as when you hold it freehand.

O yes and you would need some overhead crane to get it all mounted
GG ;-))

Have fun and take care Arch
Leo Van Der Loo

Arch wrote:
I do use incremental sizes up to 1 1/2" of both spade and forstner bits
along with a stout extender to open the hole and set the depth before
using arm rest and an inserted _cutting_ bit.

Most bit shaft extenders are flimsy and the more robust spindle
extenders extend the chuck which if the hole is big enough for it to
enter you _may_ not need the extender. Or as Yogi said, "If you don't
have it, that's why you need it!".

I would think in a home shop set up, the torque on 5 to 6 in. and larger
augers, saw tooths. spades and Forstners that cut the entire radius as
they progress into dry end grain would likely overstress the bit and its
shaft, the chuck and its Jarno & Morse tapers and generate excessive
heat. I may be wrong, but I wonder if anyone here drills out deep 5+"
holes in hard dry end grain without the tedium of going thru the sizes.

I think the size of the vase's orifice would limit the useful size of a
drill bit, while a boring bar bit could be extended or swivelled to make
the blank's internal diameter greater than the entry.

Eh Leo, does my 9" Sheldon qualify?


Turn to Safety, Arch
Fortiter


http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings

"Arch" wrote in message
...
I'm glad that David Ellsworth didn't give up on making
small mouth hollow forms or Roy Child abandon deepening his round shaft
gouge flutes or many turners didn't reject sweeping their short bevels
back.

They had to. The manufacturers had gone to a form of gouge that no
woodturner had ever seen before, made possible by new machining technology.
Lots cheaper than the old "long and strong" gouges. As I recall, about a
third the price originally, and "High Speed Steel" to boot! The turners had
to adjust to the new shape. The ears were a gimme, as they had been drawn
back for clearance for years on the inside gouges, but the gouge didn't have
enough consistent bevel depth to make an inside cut the way a forged gouge
could, so the Irish started, as usual, to go to extremes....

Notice the return of the standard pattern - interim name "Continental"-
gouges? Cropping up everywhere. They sure make easy work of peeling wood
without contortions or catches, but of course, they were developed by
woodturners, not engineers. I see in Woodworkers' Supply that the straight
chisel has made a return. I'll be ordering one of the larger ones next
time. Been using smaller made by regrinding scrapers as beading/planing
tool for years. What's next, someone going to realize that a skew works
best with a single bevel and bring back the original?

Edison's 1% and 99% also describes the ratio of successful tinkerings to
unsuccessful.

Good thought provoking post, George.

Edison's 1% success made him rich & famous. I live in the hope my
0.001% will do the same for me, but more likely I'll end up dependent on
social security and my only fame due to the kindness of the strange.


Turn to Safety, Arch
Fortiter


http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings

On Fri, 7 Jul 2006 10:50:52 -0400, (Arch) wrote:

Rough hollowing and cleaning out large end grain blanks is getting to be
more chore than fun. Even with two toolrests and a cobbled up
restraining device, my armbrace and long 3/4" boring bar is getting
heavier by the day and I'm running out of aspirin. Still I don't want to
buy an expensive large hollowing system.


Just my personal view, Arch, but I drill a 1/2" or larger hole to the depth of
the jar or vase bottom (not sure what you're working on) and then use my
(Oneway) termite from the bottom of the hole up... works well without any
special gear like braces, tow truck, arm reattachers or anything... *g*

Again, just my OHO, but if you need to change from a turning process to a
milling or boring process, why bother turning??

I could mass produce bowls by drilling stepped holes with forstner bits to have
a preshaped bowl to put on the lathe, but what fun is that? I treat this as a
hobby and the joy is in the trip, not the destination..

An alternative is to buy a used metal turning lathe and pre-cut all of your
blanks before putting them on the wood lathe... 100's of identical goblets,
uniform shaped bowls, etc...
End grain would be no different than cross grain to a machine tool..
Mac

https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm

On Fri, 07 Jul 2006 20:03:42 GMT, Lobby Dosser
wrote:

Ecnerwal wrote:

A set of large Forstner bits and a drill chuck mounted in the tailstock.
Brief search finds Forstners up to 4-1/2 inches, and they are a lot
faster than fussing with a boring bar setup. There may well be bigger
ones available, the search was not extensive. With a hole of up to 4-1/2
inches to start from, any further hollowing could be done sidegrain
rather than endgrain, and would thus be easier cutting. Be careful when
working with such large bits...


I'm thinking that forstners are maybe too short. I've got the obligatory
set of them and I don't think the shanks are much more than three inches or
so. They'd do fine for shallow objects - I've used them for that - but I've
never seen Long forstners, say 6-12 inches.

I'm having trouble seeing that as a problem, but maybe it's because I usually am
using bits that are the size of the drill chuck or larger..

With a 2" forstner and the chuck, I bottom out at about 6 or 7", I guess... I
know that I usually stop before the chuck is in more than an inch or so because
I don't do many deep pieces..
You can get extensions for forstners that are like the ones for drill bits, but
they have to be for the larger sizes, too..
Mac

https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm

Hi Arch,

If you are working within the limits of a standard Stewart or similar
armbrace, there is nothing that hollows endgrain faster and easier the
Soren Berger's hollowing tool, he calls it the Viking tool. If you
already have the armbrace, or any boring bar, you just need the tip.
After I wore out my first Viking tip I ground my own from the shank of a
5/16 or 8mm allen wrench. That's a good size to fit in the end of the
Stewart straight shank. The steel in allen wrenches is good stuff, and it
hogs out end grain at a seriously rapid rate. You don't need a large
pilot hole, either. My current deep drill is only 3/8", so that's an easy
pilot hole to make. I use the tip only in the straight shank and I don't
bother with it for hollow forms because I am working through a 1" hole,
but for end grain vessels with a wider mouth the Viking style tip really
makes a big hole in a hurry.

-mike paulson, fort collins, co

Arch wrote:
1. Would boring like machinist do, work? 2. Would it be easier to use
and less strain on my arms & shoulders than the armbrace? 3. Anybody
doing this?
4, Your general opinion, cautions, etc. Don't spare me
5. A simple better way other than sending me to the turning accessory
suppliers.

Not to portray myself as someone who really understands what he's
talking about. I will try answering your questions/wonderings, although
I think you know most of the answers - this isn't cynical just my view.
1. Does it work for the boring machinist? Yes I guess it does, why
would something that works on metal not work on wood (excluding
threading softwood)
2. Yes, any mechanical appendage that takes the load of your back will
be easier to use (as long as it itself is of good quality)
3. I am considering - not for boring especialy but buying and attaching
a crossslide on my woodturning lathe is a thought for adavanced and the
next level (doing more accurate work by the power of the jig)
4. Cautions: if you build it by yourself - you know what can happen,
just make sure that everything is tight and strong, slower speeds at
first, until you are comfortable that nothing will snap/break/detach -
especialy in the tool holder, and then down from there...
5. The cross slide you mentioned seems OK, providing for all the
obvious problem (fit, rising to the correct height, tool holder which
you need to make - do not rely on the vice itself for that...). And
although you ask not to be turned to the turning accesory suppliers I
suggest that you look at this new accessory from Eli Avisera (it is
expensive but seems to be what you want, and more)
http://avisera.co.il/Content/Tools/Avisera-Jig.asp

Make a lot of shavings, and don't listen to all the people who tell you
not to experiment!

Thanks to all of you for some much better suggestions and comments about
the small turning problem I raised. I'm pleased to have had a part, but
of course I realize that my way of contributing is not for everyone here
and although not intentional might be misunderstood as arrogance. I hope
not.

"The half of knowledge is to know where to find knowledge". My peculiar
way of asking questions, sometimes knowing a
possible answer, is to prod others to offer better answers for
discussion. It's just the way I was taught and we all try to emulate the
teachers we respected. Anyway, the 'plonk button' works on most
computers.


Turn to Safety, Arch
Fortiter


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