I understand the Powermatic (719A?) mortiser is a beefy machine that is very
easy to use. No question there. My question is whether this mortiser makes
the actual cutting of the mortise easier and if so why? So, after setting
up the board and the machines are turned on and the handle is pulled, is
there a difference in the cutting? I know the Powermatic has a bigger
motor, but the actual cutting consists of two parts; one part is to cut the
round hole with the bit and the second part is with the chisel. I would
think that even the Jet/Delta mortiser would be able to cut the round hole
just as easily as the Powermatic. If this assumption is true then it comes
down to the cutting of the square sides with the chisel. Since this is all
done with human power, why would the Powermatic be any easier to cut? Is it
any easier? Maybe my assumption about the JET/Delta being able to drill the
round hole just as easily is wrong? I assume the Powermatic must be easier
to cut with since you can even go up to a 1" mortise. For an extra $500 I
expect the Powermatic should both be easier to set up (which it is) and
easier to cut (which I'm asking).

I'd like to hear from any of you that have used a benchtop mortiser AND the
Powermatic. I appreciate all of you probably love the tool you bought so I
don't need to hear that you love your JET but have never used the
Powermatic, or that you love your Delta but have never used the Powermatic,
or ...

Thanks in advance!!
--
Larry C in Auburn, WA

Have a friend who makes a living woodworking locally and has for 30 years.
His shop is pretty much all Powermatic. I had the pleasure of trying out his
PM tools, including the mortiser, when he was trying to convince me to buy a
Powermatic table saw instead of a Unisaw. IIRC, the difference between his
PM Mortiser and my Delta benchtop is roughly the same noticeable difference
between a DP mortise attachment and my Delta mortiser .. although I just
tested it on scrap, to my recollection it cut mortises with noticeably less
effort than my Delta benchtop.

If ease of use is your criteria, I'd say go for it ... it was just too much
machine for such a dedicated task for my purposes, but if the toothfairy
made a delivery of one to my shop, I'd damn sure find the room for it.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 1/12/04

"Larry C in Auburn, WA" wrote in message

I'd like to hear from any of you that have used a benchtop mortiser AND
the
Powermatic. I appreciate all of you probably love the tool you bought so
I
don't need to hear that you love your JET but have never used the
Powermatic, or that you love your Delta but have never used the
Powermatic,

More than anything, starting off with sharp chisels will make more
difference in cutting ease than the machine itself IMHO. I have the Delta
and with the new chisels fresh out of the box, it cut so so. Using the
inexpensive LeeValley sharpening cone and polishing the 4 out side edges,
the machine and sharp chisels cut like a hot knife through butter. Just
like any other new chisels, these chisels need to be sharpened properly also
before an easy clean cut can be made. That said, if the PM has a longer arm
to engage the chisel into the wood it may seem to cut easier than the
competition.




"Larry C in Auburn, WA" wrote in message
newsicNb.65971$na.38841@attbi_s04...
I understand the Powermatic (719A?) mortiser is a beefy machine that is
very
easy to use. No question there. My question is whether this mortiser
makes
the actual cutting of the mortise easier and if so why? So, after setting
up the board and the machines are turned on and the handle is pulled, is
there a difference in the cutting? I know the Powermatic has a bigger
motor, but the actual cutting consists of two parts; one part is to cut
the
round hole with the bit and the second part is with the chisel. I would
think that even the Jet/Delta mortiser would be able to cut the round hole
just as easily as the Powermatic. If this assumption is true then it
comes
down to the cutting of the square sides with the chisel. Since this is
all
done with human power, why would the Powermatic be any easier to cut? Is
it
any easier? Maybe my assumption about the JET/Delta being able to drill
the
round hole just as easily is wrong? I assume the Powermatic must be
easier
to cut with since you can even go up to a 1" mortise. For an extra $500 I
expect the Powermatic should both be easier to set up (which it is) and
easier to cut (which I'm asking).

I'd like to hear from any of you that have used a benchtop mortiser AND
the
Powermatic. I appreciate all of you probably love the tool you bought so
I
don't need to hear that you love your JET but have never used the
Powermatic, or that you love your Delta but have never used the
Powermatic,
or ...

Thanks in advance!!
--
Larry C in Auburn, WA

"Larry C in Auburn, WA" wrote in message
newsicNb.65971$na.38841@attbi_s04...
I understand the Powermatic (719A?) mortiser is a beefy machine that is
very
easy to use. No question there.
I'd like to hear from any of you that have used a benchtop mortiser AND
the
Powermatic. I appreciate all of you probably love the tool you bought so
I
don't need to hear that you love your JET but have never used the
Powermatic, or that you love your Delta but have never used the
Powermatic,
or ...

Well I have a Delta but have not had it long enough to say I like it for
sure. But I've never used a Powermatic. So. . . . can I still answer?

Popular Woodworking 2002 has a buying guide for mortisers. They mention
that the PM is the one in their shop.They do mention sliding tables and a
front mounted clamp.

American Woodworker Tool Buyer's Guide mentions ease of adjustment with
handwheels. It also has the most quill travel of all the ones tested.

IIRC, another magazine also made mention that is was "the best" tested but I
don't recall the details.

None mentioned that it actually cuts the mortise any better. Perhaps it is
ease of use in setup, accuracy of fence that makes the entire experience
better. The handle looks longer giving more leverage. Workbench tested
other brands but not the PM. They did mention that all worked better after
some break-in use.
Ed

http://pages.cthome.net/edhome

In article DicNb.65971$na.38841@attbi_s04,
Larry C in Auburn, WA wrote:
I understand the Powermatic (719A?) mortiser is a beefy machine that is very
easy to use. No question there. My question is whether this mortiser makes
the actual cutting of the mortise easier and if so why? So, after setting
up the board and the machines are turned on and the handle is pulled, is
there a difference in the cutting?

My previous mortiser was a Delta benchtop and I now have a General
75-075 which is pretty much equivalent to the Powermatic. I can't say
I feel a big difference in how it cuts on the downward stroke. I honed
the chisels on both mortisers to a high polish which is really the key
to easy cutting.

The two places where you really notice the difference between a benchtop
and one of the bigger models are the hold down and in speed. The bigger
units use a clamp for a hold down that is rock solid so there's no
binding when removing the chisel. The moving tables with adjustable
stops make it very fast - especially when doing multiples. Once you get
the stops set you can fly through a bunch of identical stiles.

My mortises aren't any better with the bigger unit, it's just a lot
faster and more pleasant to use.

--
Scott Post http://home.insightbb.com/~sepost/

If by easier you mean
a) you can set one chisel face to parallel the fence
b) quickly and accurately align the corner of the chisel
to the mortise layout line on your stock
c) REALLY hold the stock firmly
d) move the stock quickly, easily and accurately down
a mortise
e) have horizontal start and stop "stops" that make
doing more than one part quick, easy and accurate
f) you don't have to nearly bend the pull down lever
to make the cuts
g) enjoy never bogging down during a cut
then yes, the PM 719A and the General International
75-075M are easier to cut with.

Having an XY table common to both these units is one
of the critical differences between these units and
the bench top versions. The other major feature is
the stock hold down/hold in - the big shortcoming on
the bench top units.

The General has the added feature of a tilting head
and a pivoting fence - handy if you want to do angled
mortises - chairs and splayed leg tables etc..

While I've not used a bench top, I did spend many
frustrating hours with the "mortising accessory"
on my JET drill press - truly an exercise in futility.

Here's my url on The General. The following page has
a side by side comparison of it to the PM 179A.
http://www.wood-workers.com/users/ch.../Mortiser.html

If you poke around on my site you'll see that I've
used The General on the four drawer base unit it
now rests on and on The Real Workbench, still under
construction.

I've found that any tool that's a hassle to set up
before using doesn't get used much. The General is
used quite a bit.

charlie b

In article , charliebATaccesscomDOTcom wrote:
[snip]

The General has the added feature of a tilting head
and a pivoting fence - handy if you want to do angled
mortises - chairs and splayed leg tables etc..

I've been wondering about that... does the fence pivot a full ninety degrees?
Seems to me it would have to, in order for the tilting head to do any good,
but I seem to recall, the one time that I looked at this unit (over a year
ago) that the fence pivot was limited to about 60 degrees.

--
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

How come we choose from just two people to run for president and 50 for Miss America?

Doug Miller wrote:

In article , charliebATaccesscomDOTcom wrote:
[snip]

The General has the added feature of a tilting head
and a pivoting fence - handy if you want to do angled
mortises - chairs and splayed leg tables etc..

I've been wondering about that... does the fence pivot a full ninety degrees?
Seems to me it would have to, in order for the tilting head to do any good,
but I seem to recall, the one time that I looked at this unit (over a year
ago) that the fence pivot was limited to about 60 degrees.

--
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

The head pivots on the vertical axis left/right +/- 30 degrees and the
fence pivots on the horizontal axis to +30 degrees. Not sure why the
fence would have to pivot a full 90 degrees. For that you could just
clamp a piece of squared MDF or wood.

charlie b

Seems like there is no overwhelming feeling that the Powermatic actually
cuts any easier. As I said in my OP I know the Powermatic is easier to use
(set up), but I was questioning whether the actual cutting of mortises is
any easier. Most posts had no opinion one way or the other, one said it
wasn't any easier and one said it was. So my unscientific conclusion has to
be that the Powermatic is much easier to set up, but doesn't necessarily
make the cutting any easier. If it does cut easier it doesn't seem to be a
huge difference over a benchtop model. Thanks for all the replies!

If anyone cares, while I think it would be very cool to have the Powermatic
(or a General) I think I'll have to save the extra $500 for another tool and
just get a benchtop mortiser.

Thanks again.
--
Larry C in Auburn, WA

"Larry C in Auburn, WA" wrote in message
newsicNb.65971$na.38841@attbi_s04...
I understand the Powermatic (719A?) mortiser is a beefy machine that is
very
easy to use. No question there. My question is whether this mortiser
makes
the actual cutting of the mortise easier and if so why? So, after setting
up the board and the machines are turned on and the handle is pulled, is
there a difference in the cutting? I know the Powermatic has a bigger
motor, but the actual cutting consists of two parts; one part is to cut
the
round hole with the bit and the second part is with the chisel. I would
think that even the Jet/Delta mortiser would be able to cut the round hole
just as easily as the Powermatic. If this assumption is true then it
comes
down to the cutting of the square sides with the chisel. Since this is
all
done with human power, why would the Powermatic be any easier to cut? Is
it
any easier? Maybe my assumption about the JET/Delta being able to drill
the
round hole just as easily is wrong? I assume the Powermatic must be
easier
to cut with since you can even go up to a 1" mortise. For an extra $500 I
expect the Powermatic should both be easier to set up (which it is) and
easier to cut (which I'm asking).

I'd like to hear from any of you that have used a benchtop mortiser AND
the
Powermatic. I appreciate all of you probably love the tool you bought so
I
don't need to hear that you love your JET but have never used the
Powermatic, or that you love your Delta but have never used the
Powermatic,
or ...

Thanks in advance!!
--
Larry C in Auburn, WA

Read my post first!! Research this good man! How much is accuracy and
dependability worth to you? Right now Id gladly pay the extra cash to get
something that works properly, is dependable and will last me years and
years.

Jim


"Larry C in Auburn, WA" wrote in message
news:jBINb.76996$I06.335776@attbi_s01...
Seems like there is no overwhelming feeling that the Powermatic actually
cuts any easier. As I said in my OP I know the Powermatic is easier to
use
(set up), but I was questioning whether the actual cutting of mortises is
any easier. Most posts had no opinion one way or the other, one said it
wasn't any easier and one said it was. So my unscientific conclusion has
to
be that the Powermatic is much easier to set up, but doesn't necessarily
make the cutting any easier. If it does cut easier it doesn't seem to be
a
huge difference over a benchtop model. Thanks for all the replies!

If anyone cares, while I think it would be very cool to have the
Powermatic
(or a General) I think I'll have to save the extra $500 for another tool
and
just get a benchtop mortiser.

Thanks again.
--
Larry C in Auburn, WA

"Larry C in Auburn, WA" wrote in message
newsicNb.65971$na.38841@attbi_s04...
I understand the Powermatic (719A?) mortiser is a beefy machine that is
very
easy to use. No question there. My question is whether this mortiser
makes
the actual cutting of the mortise easier and if so why? So, after
setting
up the board and the machines are turned on and the handle is pulled, is
there a difference in the cutting? I know the Powermatic has a bigger
motor, but the actual cutting consists of two parts; one part is to cut
the
round hole with the bit and the second part is with the chisel. I would
think that even the Jet/Delta mortiser would be able to cut the round
hole
just as easily as the Powermatic. If this assumption is true then it
comes
down to the cutting of the square sides with the chisel. Since this is
all
done with human power, why would the Powermatic be any easier to cut?
Is
it
any easier? Maybe my assumption about the JET/Delta being able to drill
the
round hole just as easily is wrong? I assume the Powermatic must be
easier
to cut with since you can even go up to a 1" mortise. For an extra $500
I
expect the Powermatic should both be easier to set up (which it is) and
easier to cut (which I'm asking).

I'd like to hear from any of you that have used a benchtop mortiser AND
the
Powermatic. I appreciate all of you probably love the tool you bought
so
I
don't need to hear that you love your JET but have never used the
Powermatic, or that you love your Delta but have never used the
Powermatic,
or ...

Thanks in advance!!
--
Larry C in Auburn, WA

James D Kountz wrote:
Read my post first!!

This is the first post with that name to show up in this thread on my
verizon.net newsserver. :-( Please post again, at least for my benefit.
(I'm lurking and learning.)

Thanks.

-- Mark

I have another post, different thread but related topic. Sent them just
minutes apart so maybe try refreshing and see if the works.

Jim


"Mark Jerde" wrote in message
news
James D Kountz wrote:
Read my post first!!

This is the first post with that name to show up in this thread on my
verizon.net newsserver. :-( Please post again, at least for my benefit.
(I'm lurking and learning.)

Thanks.

-- Mark

James D Kountz wrote:
I have another post, different thread but related topic. Sent them
just minutes apart so maybe try refreshing and see if the works.

And that thread is named _____ and started on ____ ? Thanks. There's lots
of stuff here... ;-)

-- Mark

Ok here ya go ( holding Marks hand) its called "Already cussing new
mortiser" . Started 10:12pm Eastern Time today 1/15. Just minutes after
Larry C's post entitled "And the concensus is..."

Jim


"Mark Jerde" wrote in message
...
James D Kountz wrote:
I have another post, different thread but related topic. Sent them
just minutes apart so maybe try refreshing and see if the works.

And that thread is named _____ and started on ____ ? Thanks. There's
lots
of stuff here... ;-)

-- Mark

Tried sending an entire copy to you via email but it bounced back to me.

Jim


"Mark Jerde" wrote in message
...
James D Kountz wrote:
I have another post, different thread but related topic. Sent them
just minutes apart so maybe try refreshing and see if the works.

And that thread is named _____ and started on ____ ? Thanks. There's
lots
of stuff here... ;-)

-- Mark

Copy of original post

*snip*

Ok last week I loved it now I hate it. Got me a mortiser and started really
using it this week and while getting into the real workings of the thing I
have totally changed my opinion about them. Or at least the one I have, the
Delta. First thing I noticed was the fact that when centered on 3/4" stock
(yeah I know how un-common right?) the damn head hits the post that the hold
down it mounted on preventing you to make a mortise deeper than 9/16-5/8. I
was trying to make a 3/4" deep mortise and couldn't figure out why the damn
thing wouldn't go any deeper. That's why. Second thing, when finally getting
it to go deep enough by laying a piece of 1/4" ply on top of the table thus
raising the stock, I was mortising right along, made about 10 mortises when
"snap" the 1/4 bit broke. I thought ok what the hell it was the bit that was
included with the machine and was probably not that good to start with. Went
to the 5/16 bit. Not in the center anymore. Why? Didn't move the fence.
Checked the fit of the chisel in the head and guess what, severe play! The
damn chisel moves front to back a significant amount before setting the
set-screw. Setting the screw of course locks it in but where? Back? Front?
Side to side? Its moving all over the place. I locked it, then loosened it,
and locked it again several times to see if it was repeatable with no luck.
Different everytime. I just feel this should have been a closer tolerance
than what it is. It was just enough that the rails aren't flush with the
stiles now. Anyway, I think I'm going to play with it some more but it looks
like I may break out the 10 year old shop made horizontal router table I
used in the past. At least I know all of its perks!

Jim

*End snip*

There ya go Mark!


"Mark Jerde" wrote in message
...
James D Kountz wrote:
I have another post, different thread but related topic. Sent them
just minutes apart so maybe try refreshing and see if the works.

And that thread is named _____ and started on ____ ? Thanks. There's
lots
of stuff here... ;-)

-- Mark

James D Kountz wrote:

There ya go Mark!

Thanks. My, your hand is warm... g

-- Mark

Stop that!

lol

Jim


"Mark Jerde" wrote in message
...
James D Kountz wrote:

There ya go Mark!

Thanks. My, your hand is warm... g

-- Mark

Ive been looking with no luck for that article on adapting a cross sliding
vise to a mortiser. Thought that might help with accuracy but I cant find
the darn article. Was a Badger Pond article but I checked the archives at
Woodcentral and that turned up nothing. Still looking.........

Jim


"Mark Jerde" wrote in message
...
James D Kountz wrote:

There ya go Mark!

Thanks. My, your hand is warm... g

-- Mark

In article , charliebATaccesscomDOTcom wrote:
Doug Miller wrote:

In article , charliebATaccesscomDOTcom wrote:
[snip]

The General has the added feature of a tilting head
and a pivoting fence - handy if you want to do angled
mortises - chairs and splayed leg tables etc..

I've been wondering about that... does the fence pivot a full ninety degrees?
Seems to me it would have to, in order for the tilting head to do any good,
but I seem to recall, the one time that I looked at this unit (over a year
ago) that the fence pivot was limited to about 60 degrees.

The head pivots on the vertical axis left/right +/- 30 degrees and the
fence pivots on the horizontal axis to +30 degrees. Not sure why the
fence would have to pivot a full 90 degrees. For that you could just
clamp a piece of squared MDF or wood.

OK, maybe I'm being dense here... but I don't see how the tilting head can be
of any use at all in cutting an angled mortise in a chair leg, given that the
head tilts in the left-right plane. With the long axis of the leg running
left-right, the head would need to tilt in the fore-aft plane to cut an angled
mortise. And if you clamp a squared piece of MDF to align the leg in the
fore-aft direction, how the heck do you clamp the leg?

Like I said, maybe I'm being dense, but I just don't see how it helps in
making a chair to have the mortise head tilt from left to right, unless you
can pivot the fence and clamping mechanism a full 90 degrees to put the leg
into the fore-aft direction.

--
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

How come we choose from just two people to run for president and 50 for Miss America?

Doug Miller wrote:

OK, maybe I'm being dense here... but I don't see how the tilting head can be
of any use at all in cutting an angled mortise in a chair leg, given that the
head tilts in the left-right plane. With the long axis of the leg running
left-right, the head would need to tilt in the fore-aft plane to cut an angled
mortise. And if you clamp a squared piece of MDF to align the leg in the
fore-aft direction, how the heck do you clamp the leg?

Like I said, maybe I'm being dense, but I just don't see how it helps in
making a chair to have the mortise head tilt from left to right, unless you
can pivot the fence and clamping mechanism a full 90 degrees to put the leg
into the fore-aft direction.


Sorry about not responding sooner - still trying to come up with an
illustration of some examples. An integrated chair leg/ chair back is
an example. With the feet of the chair outside the outline of the
front and the back of the chair seat, the mortises need to be angled


|
|
/
+------+
/ \
+----------+
/ \

The ASCII diagram below, though the angles are too extreme, shows
a rear leg part being mortised before being shaped on the bandsaw.

Mortising Chisel & Bit
/ / / /
/ / / /
+--------------+-+------------+-+---------------------+
| |
+-----------------------------------------------------+
chair leg chair back
bottom

Make sense? Trying to convey 3-D info in 2-D when angles other
than 90 degrees gets tricky.

charlie b

In article , charliebATaccesscomDOTcom wrote:
Doug Miller wrote:

OK, maybe I'm being dense here... but I don't see how the tilting head can be
of any use at all in cutting an angled mortise in a chair leg, given that the
head tilts in the left-right plane. With the long axis of the leg running
left-right, the head would need to tilt in the fore-aft plane to cut an
angled mortise.

[snip]

Sorry about not responding sooner - still trying to come up with an
illustration of some examples.

Hey, no problem -- thanks for responding. If you hadn't, I'd still be
wondering.

An integrated chair leg/ chair back is
an example. With the feet of the chair outside the outline of the
front and the back of the chair seat, the mortises need to be angled


|
|
/
+------+
/ \
+----------+
/ \

The ASCII diagram below, though the angles are too extreme, shows
a rear leg part being mortised before being shaped on the bandsaw.

Mortising Chisel & Bit
/ / / /
/ / / /
+--------------+-+------------+-+---------------------+
| |
+-----------------------------------------------------+
chair leg chair back
bottom

Make sense? Trying to convey 3-D info in 2-D when angles other
than 90 degrees gets tricky.

Ahh, now I see the cause of the confusion -- we are picturing two entirely
different types of chairs. Your picture is of a chair with non-vertical legs,
having the same horizontal separation between the left and right sides at both
front and rear. *My* picture is of a chair with *vertical* legs, having a
wider horizontal separation between the front legs and the rear legs, e.g.

Side View Top View

| +-------+ back
| / \
| / \
| / \
+---------+ +---------------+ front
| |
| |
| |
| |

I understand clearly how the tilting-head mortiser can cut the angled mortises
needed for your picture of a chair. But how on earth can it cut the angled
mortises needed in *my* picture, unless the fence and leg can be pivoted 90
degrees?

--
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

How come we choose from just two people to run for president and 50 for Miss America?

Doug Miller wrote:

snip


Ahh, now I see the cause of the confusion -- we are picturing two entirely
different types of chairs. Your picture is of a chair with non-vertical legs,
having the same horizontal separation between the left and right sides at both
front and rear. *My* picture is of a chair with *vertical* legs, having a
wider horizontal separation between the front legs and the rear legs, e.g.

Side View Top View

| +-------+ back
| / \
| / \
| / \
+---------+ +---------------+ front
| |
| |
| |
| |

I understand clearly how the tilting-head mortiser can cut the angled mortises
needed for your picture of a chair. But how on earth can it cut the angled
mortises needed in *my* picture, unless the fence and leg can be pivoted 90
degrees?

--
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)


So many ways to use M&T joinery and so many ways to do them. If you
combine
the chair example I did with the one you did things really get harry
and
things get really interesting. A horizontal boring/mortiser machine
can
do a bit more than either a fixed or tilting head chisel and bit
mortiser.
Add the jig described by the url below and you can cut mortises at
almost
any angle or compound angle. A guy in the Yahoo Robland X31 group
came
up with this slick jig. With its two T-slots you can cut just about
any angle on any axis, assuming your mortiser has the throw and the
bit long enough.

www.wood-workers.com/users/charlieb/!RaysMortiser1/RaysJIG1.html

The horizontal boring/mortiser is the fifth function on the Robland
X31.
The pictures on the lower half of the following page shws the XYZ
table and the bit in the chuck on the end of the joiner/jointer -
planer cutter head.

www.wood-workers.com/users/charlieb/X31pg3.html

Between roof rafters and chairs the old high school trig class
finally starts coming in handy. Sometimes I even use the
analytical geometry I learned in college. Now calculas and
differntial equations ...

Fun and intersting this woodworking thing.

charlie b

In article , charliebATaccesscomDOTcom wrote:
Doug Miller wrote:

snip
Ahh, now I see the cause of the confusion -- we are picturing two entirely
different types of chairs. Your picture is of a chair with non-vertical legs,
having the same horizontal separation between the left and right sides at
both front and rear. *My* picture is of a chair with *vertical* legs, having a
wider horizontal separation between the front legs and the rear legs, e.g.

[snip ascii art]
I understand clearly how the tilting-head mortiser can cut the angled
mortises
needed for your picture of a chair. But how on earth can it cut the angled
mortises needed in *my* picture, unless the fence and leg can be pivoted 90
degrees?


So many ways to use M&T joinery and so many ways to do them. If you
combine the chair example I did with the one you did things really get harry
and things get really interesting. A horizontal boring/mortiser machine
can do a bit more than either a fixed or tilting head chisel and bit
mortiser. Add the jig described by the url below and you can cut mortises at
almost any angle or compound angle. A guy in the Yahoo Robland X31 group
came up with this slick jig. With its two T-slots you can cut just about
any angle on any axis, assuming your mortiser has the throw and the
bit long enough.

www.wood-workers.com/users/charlieb/!RaysMortiser1/RaysJIG1.html

The horizontal boring/mortiser is the fifth function on the Robland X31.
The pictures on the lower half of the following page shws the XYZ
table and the bit in the chuck on the end of the joiner/jointer -
planer cutter head.

www.wood-workers.com/users/charlieb/X31pg3.html

Thanks for the great links, Charlie!!

--
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

How come we choose from just two people to run for president and 50 for Miss America?