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Woodturning (rec.crafts.woodturning) To discuss tools, techniques, styles, materials, shows and competitions, education and educational materials related to woodturning. All skill levels are welcome, from art turners to production turners, beginners to masters. |
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#1
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Drilling on the Lathe - 3 Qs
Am planning on making some turned earrings in the next week and will be
drilling a very small hole through to attach the ear hardware. 1) Does it make any difference as to wandering if you turn the wood while the bit is stationary or turn the bit and hold the wood? 2) Am drilling Hard Maple with a #60 bit. Any way to keep it on the straight and true? When using this small of a bit, does Q1 come into play any more than with larger bits? Thanks -- Owen Lowe Northwest Woodturners Pacific Northwest Woodturning Guild ___ Tips fer Turnin': Place a sign, easily seen as you switch on your lathe, warning you to remove any and all rings from your fingers. Called degloving, extended hardware can grab your ring and rip it off your finger. A pic for the strong of stomach: www.itim.nsw.gov.au/go/objectid/2A3AC703-1321-1C29-70B067DC88E16BFC/index.cfm Besides, rings can easily mar the surface of a turning as you check for finished smoothness. |
#2
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Drilling on the Lathe - 3 Qs
Owen Lowe wrote:
Am planning on making some turned earrings in the next week and will be drilling a very small hole through to attach the ear hardware. 1) Does it make any difference as to wandering if you turn the wood while the bit is stationary or turn the bit and hold the wood? 2) Am drilling Hard Maple with a #60 bit. Any way to keep it on the straight and true? When using this small of a bit, does Q1 come into play any more than with larger bits? Thanks I'd hold the wood and turn the bit for a drill that small. Unless you are making a lot of them, you might think about using a pin vise. I've had better luck keeping true when using a pin vise rather than a Dremel or similar. Oh, and give the wood a pinprick where you want the hole to help center and start the bit. If you don't have a pin vise and can't find one local, give me a shout and I'll have SWMBO bring one down. LD |
#3
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Drilling on the Lathe - 3 Qs
Hello Owen,
I don't think the wood cares whether the drill is rotating or the wood itself. The important part with that small of a bit is to have a center point in the wood to fit the drill and the drill needs to be perpendicular to the surface in which it is drilling. I normally drill small holes such as you are planning with a hand held drill chuck, a small one for holding small drill bits, and the wood rotating. I use a center punch to make an indent for the drill at the point where I want to drill. Fred Holder http://www.fholder.com In article , Owen Lowe says... Am planning on making some turned earrings in the next week and will be drilling a very small hole through to attach the ear hardware. 1) Does it make any difference as to wandering if you turn the wood while the bit is stationary or turn the bit and hold the wood? 2) Am drilling Hard Maple with a #60 bit. Any way to keep it on the straight and true? When using this small of a bit, does Q1 come into play any more than with larger bits? Thanks |
#4
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Drilling on the Lathe - 3 Qs
"Owen Lowe" wrote in message news Am planning on making some turned earrings in the next week and will be drilling a very small hole through to attach the ear hardware. 1) Does it make any difference as to wandering if you turn the wood while the bit is stationary or turn the bit and hold the wood? 2) Am drilling Hard Maple with a #60 bit. Any way to keep it on the straight and true? When using this small of a bit, does Q1 come into play any more than with larger bits? Thanks -- Owen Lowe Northwest Woodturners Pacific Northwest Woodturning Guild ___ Tips fer Turnin': Place a sign, easily seen as you switch on your lathe, warning you to remove any and all rings from your fingers. Called degloving, extended hardware can grab your ring and rip it off your finger. A pic for the strong of stomach: http://www.itim.nsw.gov.au/go/object...E16BFC/index.c fm Besides, rings can easily mar the surface of a turning as you check for finished smoothness. I saw David Hout on the DIY channel make a pair of earrngs, and he used a cordless drill in reverse to drill the hole with what he called a standard drill bit. I am not sure I understand all this but I watched him do it on tv without splitting the tiny earring. IIRC they were made of Padauk. Hope this helps. Lyndell |
#5
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Drilling on the Lathe - 3 Qs
On Wed, 04 Jan 2006 11:13:25 -0800, Owen Lowe
wrote: Am planning on making some turned earrings in the next week and will be drilling a very small hole through to attach the ear hardware. 1) Does it make any difference as to wandering if you turn the wood while the bit is stationary or turn the bit and hold the wood? Owen, I frequently make earrings and the like that require tiny holes, and have honestly found that using a pin vise is more than adequate for this size hole, in even the hardest of exotic hardwoods. Maple is no problem at all, and using the pin vise gives you very precise control. Takes literally seconds to drill holes even an inch deep. -- Chuck *#:^) chaz3913(AT)yahoo(DOT)com Anti-spam sig: please remove "NO SPAM" from e-mail address to reply. September 11, 2001 - Never Forget ----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==---- http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups ----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =---- |
#6
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Drilling on the Lathe - 3 Qs
"Lyndell Thompson" wrote in message ink.net... I saw David Hout on the DIY channel make a pair of earrngs, and he used a cordless drill in reverse to drill the hole with what he called a standard drill bit. I am not sure I understand all this but I watched him do it on tv without splitting the tiny earring. IIRC they were made of Padauk. Hope this helps. Lyndell Yep. Dull would pretty much burn its way through. Probably the best way to go. The differential stress on the spiral sides of the bit start the wander, and it's exacerbated by the differential density in the wood. Chuck up a soft iron brad and burn 'er through. Or use a grinder instead of a spiraled bit and sand your way through. |
#7
Posted to rec.crafts.woodturning
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Drilling on the Lathe - 3 Qs
Owen Lowe wrote:
Am planning on making some turned earrings in the next week and will be drilling a very small hole through to attach the ear hardware. 1) Does it make any difference as to wandering if you turn the wood while the bit is stationary or turn the bit and hold the wood? 2) Am drilling Hard Maple with a #60 bit. Any way to keep it on the straight and true? When using this small of a bit, does Q1 come into play any more than with larger bits? Thanks Don't know what a #60 bit is, but sounds pretty small. When I've had to drill really small holes in the past w/o wandering I've used my dremel. At really high speeds it doesn't seem to want to grab and wander around. George can explain why. g I just know it's worked for me... ....Kevin -- Kevin Miller http://www.alaska.net/~atftb Juneau, Alaska Registered Linux User No: 307357 |
#8
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Drilling on the Lathe - 3 Qs
In article fuXuf.3696$QI6.2976@trnddc07,
Lobby Dosser wrote: If you don't have a pin vise and can't find one local, give me a shout and I'll have SWMBO bring one down. Thanks for the offer Lobby. Woodcraft sells a pin chuck for $10 and a set of #80-#60 (IIRC) drills for $5. I'll probably just swing by there on Saturday and get them for my own tool drawer. This isn't the first time I could have used it/them and certainly won't be the last. -- Owen Lowe Northwest Woodturners Pacific Northwest Woodturning Guild ___ Tips fer Turnin': Place a sign, easily seen as you switch on your lathe, warning you to remove any and all rings from your fingers. Called degloving, extended hardware can grab your ring and rip it off your finger. A pic for the strong of stomach: www.itim.nsw.gov.au/go/objectid/2A3AC703-1321-1C29-70B067DC88E16BFC/index.cfm Besides, rings can easily mar the surface of a turning as you check for finished smoothness. |
#9
Posted to rec.crafts.woodturning
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Drilling on the Lathe - 3 Qs
In article ,
Kevin Miller wrote: Don't know what a #60 bit is, but sounds pretty small. When I've had to drill really small holes in the past w/o wandering I've used my dremel. At really high speeds it doesn't seem to want to grab and wander around. George can explain why. g I just know it's worked for me... Yeah, it's the smallest drill that my local Ace carries. I wanted even smaller but was out of luck. The #60 is .040". I hadn't thought of my Dremel and may give that a try. Lots of option advice given: high speed, burn, reverse direction - will post what worked the best. -- Owen Lowe Northwest Woodturners Pacific Northwest Woodturning Guild ___ Tips fer Turnin': Place a sign, easily seen as you switch on your lathe, warning you to remove any and all rings from your fingers. Called degloving, extended hardware can grab your ring and rip it off your finger. A pic for the strong of stomach: www.itim.nsw.gov.au/go/objectid/2A3AC703-1321-1C29-70B067DC88E16BFC/index.cfm Besides, rings can easily mar the surface of a turning as you check for finished smoothness. |
#10
Posted to rec.crafts.woodturning
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Drilling on the Lathe - 3 Qs
In article . net,
"Lyndell Thompson" wrote: I saw David Hout on the DIY channel make a pair of earrngs, and he used a cordless drill in reverse to drill the hole with what he called a standard drill bit. I am not sure I understand all this but I watched him do it on tv without splitting the tiny earring. IIRC they were made of Padauk. Hope this helps. Hmmmm. Reverse direction... wouldn't have ever thought of that one. -- Owen Lowe Northwest Woodturners Pacific Northwest Woodturning Guild ___ Tips fer Turnin': Place a sign, easily seen as you switch on your lathe, warning you to remove any and all rings from your fingers. Called degloving, extended hardware can grab your ring and rip it off your finger. A pic for the strong of stomach: www.itim.nsw.gov.au/go/objectid/2A3AC703-1321-1C29-70B067DC88E16BFC/index.cfm Besides, rings can easily mar the surface of a turning as you check for finished smoothness. |
#11
Posted to rec.crafts.woodturning
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Drilling on the Lathe - 3 Qs
In article , "George" George@least
wrote: Chuck up a soft iron brad and burn 'er through. Or use a grinder instead of a spiraled bit and sand your way through. What does "use a grinder...and sand your way through" mean? In this instance, what's a grinder? -- Owen Lowe Northwest Woodturners Pacific Northwest Woodturning Guild ___ Tips fer Turnin': Place a sign, easily seen as you switch on your lathe, warning you to remove any and all rings from your fingers. Called degloving, extended hardware can grab your ring and rip it off your finger. A pic for the strong of stomach: www.itim.nsw.gov.au/go/objectid/2A3AC703-1321-1C29-70B067DC88E16BFC/index.cfm Besides, rings can easily mar the surface of a turning as you check for finished smoothness. |
#12
Posted to rec.crafts.woodturning
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Drilling on the Lathe - 3 Qs
Owen Lowe wrote:
In article fuXuf.3696$QI6.2976@trnddc07, Lobby Dosser wrote: If you don't have a pin vise and can't find one local, give me a shout and I'll have SWMBO bring one down. Thanks for the offer Lobby. Woodcraft sells a pin chuck for $10 and a set of #80-#60 (IIRC) drills for $5. I'll probably just swing by there on Saturday and get them for my own tool drawer. This isn't the first time I could have used it/them and certainly won't be the last. There's a nice looking set at Woodcraft online for $18, but I don't see one for $10. Might want to call them. I don't recall ever seeing one in the store. 'Course, I wasn't looking for one. |
#13
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Drilling on the Lathe - 3 Qs
Owen Lowe wrote:
In article , Kevin Miller wrote: Don't know what a #60 bit is, but sounds pretty small. When I've had to drill really small holes in the past w/o wandering I've used my dremel. At really high speeds it doesn't seem to want to grab and wander around. George can explain why. g I just know it's worked for me... Yeah, it's the smallest drill that my local Ace carries. I wanted even smaller but was out of luck. The #60 is .040". I hadn't thought of my Dremel and may give that a try. Lots of option advice given: high speed, burn, reverse direction - will post what worked the best. Watch out for lateral pressure with the Dremel. You can break bits pretty quickly. |
#14
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Drilling on the Lathe - 3 Qs
"Owen Lowe" wrote in message news In article , "George" George@least wrote: Chuck up a soft iron brad and burn 'er through. Or use a grinder instead of a spiraled bit and sand your way through. What does "use a grinder...and sand your way through" mean? In this instance, what's a grinder? Grinder as in ball grinder. Like the dentist's burr. Fast speed and small bites is the key to minimizing outside influences such as grain and grab. |
#15
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Drilling on the Lathe - 3 Qs (2 more)
Some machinists think there's a difference between making holes with the
work rotating and the bit steady (boring) and the bit rotating and the work steady (drilling). I don't know why other than boring is better for making large holes. Anyone? I know it works from the days before plywood when I nailed #3 sheeting on roofs, but I don't know why dulling the tip of a nail helps to make it go straight and not split the lumber. Somebody? Turn to Safety, Arch Fortiter http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings |
#16
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Drilling on the Lathe - 3 Qs
Owen Lowe wrote:
In article , Kevin Miller wrote: Don't know what a #60 bit is, but sounds pretty small. When I've had to drill really small holes in the past w/o wandering I've used my dremel. At really high speeds it doesn't seem to want to grab and wander around. George can explain why. g I just know it's worked for me... Yeah, it's the smallest drill that my local Ace carries. I wanted even smaller but was out of luck. The #60 is .040". I hadn't thought of my Dremel and may give that a try. Lots of option advice given: high speed, burn, reverse direction - will post what worked the best. If you need smaller, you can get a 61-80 set from Micro-tools http://www.micro-tools.com for 8 bucks. If you need smaller than #80 (.0135), McMaster http://www.mcmaster.com has specialty bits down to .0019 but they're on a 1/32" shank, have limited flute length, and cost about 12 bucks a shot. http://www.store.yahoo.com/drillcity/ has a good assortment as well, including resharpened carbide microbits. -- --John to email, dial "usenet" and validate (was jclarke at eye bee em dot net) |
#17
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Drilling on the Lathe - 3 Qs (2 more)
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#18
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Drilling on the Lathe - 3 Qs (2 more)
Arch wrote:
Some machinists think there's a difference between making holes with the work rotating and the bit steady (boring) and the bit rotating and the work steady (drilling). I don't know why other than boring is better for making large holes. Anyone? One thing you can do by boring is support the boring bar at both ends and move the work along it. Also, if the boring-bar doesn't have to be balanced it can be made stiffer. You'd be doing that after you had a through-hole into which you could insert the bar though. I know it works from the days before plywood when I nailed #3 sheeting on roofs, but I don't know why dulling the tip of a nail helps to make it go straight and not split the lumber. Somebody? Turn to Safety, Arch Fortiter http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings -- --John to email, dial "usenet" and validate (was jclarke at eye bee em dot net) |
#19
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Drilling on the Lathe - 3 Qs
In article , "George" George@least
wrote: Grinder as in ball grinder. Like the dentist's burr. Fast speed and small bites is the key to minimizing outside influences such as grain and grab. I hadn't thought of that idea either - thanks. Problem I see with that is the shafts, AFAIR, are larger than the ball so wouldn't drill very deep. I need to go through about an inch or more of wood. -- Owen Lowe Northwest Woodturners Pacific Northwest Woodturning Guild ___ Tips fer Turnin': Place a sign, easily seen as you switch on your lathe, warning you to remove any and all rings from your fingers. Called degloving, extended hardware can grab your ring and rip it off your finger. A pic for the strong of stomach: www.itim.nsw.gov.au/go/objectid/2A3AC703-1321-1C29-70B067DC88E16BFC/index.cfm Besides, rings can easily mar the surface of a turning as you check for finished smoothness. |
#20
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Drilling on the Lathe - 3 Qs
In article v7zvf.2711$uy3.2186@trnddc08,
Lobby Dosser wrote: There's a nice looking set at Woodcraft online for $18, but I don't see one for $10. Might want to call them. I don't recall ever seeing one in the store. 'Course, I wasn't looking for one. These are the items I saw with Woodcraft online: http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=784 I've not seen them at the local place either - but likewise, hadn't looked before. Oh, I see what you found: http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?FamilyID=7349 Would a hand-held tool work better than a tailstock mounted chuck? -- Owen Lowe Northwest Woodturners Pacific Northwest Woodturning Guild ___ Tips fer Turnin': Place a sign, easily seen as you switch on your lathe, warning you to remove any and all rings from your fingers. Called degloving, extended hardware can grab your ring and rip it off your finger. A pic for the strong of stomach: www.itim.nsw.gov.au/go/objectid/2A3AC703-1321-1C29-70B067DC88E16BFC/index.cfm Besides, rings can easily mar the surface of a turning as you check for finished smoothness. |
#21
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More drill questions
A fourth drilling question has sprung to mind as to drilling wood:
Given the choice of 135 degree or 118 degree (or other angles) of grind on a drill, when do you choose one over the other? -- Owen Lowe Northwest Woodturners Pacific Northwest Woodturning Guild ___ Tips fer Turnin': Place a sign, easily seen as you switch on your lathe, warning you to remove any and all rings from your fingers. Called degloving, extended hardware can grab your ring and rip it off your finger. A pic for the strong of stomach: www.itim.nsw.gov.au/go/objectid/2A3AC703-1321-1C29-70B067DC88E16BFC/index.cfm Besides, rings can easily mar the surface of a turning as you check for finished smoothness. |
#22
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More drill questions
"Owen Lowe" wrote in message news A fourth drilling question has sprung to mind as to drilling wood: Given the choice of 135 degree or 118 degree (or other angles) of grind on a drill, when do you choose one over the other? Material. Wood isn't really consistent enough to make a difference. Seems to respond best to score and scrape - bits with ears to guide, not points. |
#23
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More drill questions
Owen Lowe writes:
A fourth drilling question has sprung to mind as to drilling wood: Given the choice of 135 degree or 118 degree (or other angles) of grind on a drill, when do you choose one over the other? 135 degrees is used to cut high alloy steel. (HSS, M2, etc.) For cast iron, aluminum, bronze, plastic,wood, etc. use 118 -- Sending unsolicited commercial e-mail to this account incurs a fee of $500 per message, and acknowledges the legality of this contract. |
#24
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More drill questions
that picture is enough for me to take my ring off !!
-- Bill . |
#25
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Drilling on the Lathe - 3 Qs
Owen Lowe wrote:
In article , "George" George@least wrote: Grinder as in ball grinder. Like the dentist's burr. Fast speed and small bites is the key to minimizing outside influences such as grain and grab. I hadn't thought of that idea either - thanks. Problem I see with that is the shafts, AFAIR, are larger than the ball so wouldn't drill very deep. I need to go through about an inch or more of wood. After you got in a quarter inch or so you could switch to a straight bit. Wandering won't be an issue at that point... ....Kevin -- Kevin Miller http://www.alaska.net/~atftb Juneau, Alaska Registered Linux User No: 307357 |
#26
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Drilling on the Lathe - 3 Qs
"Kevin Miller" wrote in message ... Owen Lowe wrote: In article , "George" George@least wrote: Grinder as in ball grinder. Like the dentist's burr. Fast speed and small bites is the key to minimizing outside influences such as grain and grab. I hadn't thought of that idea either - thanks. Problem I see with that is the shafts, AFAIR, are larger than the ball so wouldn't drill very deep. I need to go through about an inch or more of wood. After you got in a quarter inch or so you could switch to a straight bit. Wandering won't be an issue at that point... Or use a wire like they use for a root canal .... |
#27
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Drilling on the Lathe - 3 Qs
"root canal"? George, how could you use language like that on a family news
group? Those are curse words where I come from. Why does my dentist have my finger inpressions in the arms of his chair, you ask? :-) -- God bless and safe turning Darrell Feltmate Truro, NS Canada www.aroundthewoods.com |
#28
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Drilling on the Lathe - 3 Qs
Owen Lowe wrote:
In article v7zvf.2711$uy3.2186@trnddc08, Lobby Dosser wrote: There's a nice looking set at Woodcraft online for $18, but I don't see one for $10. Might want to call them. I don't recall ever seeing one in the store. 'Course, I wasn't looking for one. These are the items I saw with Woodcraft online: http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=784 I didn't see this. I've not seen them at the local place either - but likewise, hadn't looked before. Oh, I see what you found: http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?FamilyID=7349 Would a hand-held tool work better than a tailstock mounted chuck? That's the item. I've never tried drills that small in a tailstock chuck, so I don't really know. I'd guess that there would be more lateral displacement with a drill chuck and wire drill adapter in the tailstock than there would be with the drill in a dremel or a pin vise. I've drilled using the dremel (freehand and mounted on a stand), but prefer using a pin vise. Let us know which way you go and how it works. |
#29
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Drilling on the Lathe - 3 Qs
"Owen Lowe" wrote in message news In article v7zvf.2711$uy3.2186@trnddc08, Lobby Dosser wrote: There's a nice looking set at Woodcraft online for $18, but I don't see one for $10. Might want to call them. I don't recall ever seeing one in the store. 'Course, I wasn't looking for one. These are the items I saw with Woodcraft online: http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=784 I've not seen them at the local place either - but likewise, hadn't looked before. Oh, I see what you found: http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?FamilyID=7349 Would a hand-held tool work better than a tailstock mounted chuck? ======================== Probably not. The tail mounted chuck would be automatically centered on the work piece, and, IMO, drill straighter than hand held or drill press held drills. Ken Moon Webberville, TX. |
#30
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More drill questions
In article ,
"Bill Gooch" wrote: that picture is enough for me to take my ring off !! Yeah, but I've still not gotten in the habit yet. -- Owen Lowe Northwest Woodturners Pacific Northwest Woodturning Guild ___ Tips fer Turnin': Place a sign, easily seen as you switch on your lathe, warning you to remove any and all rings from your fingers. Called degloving, extended hardware can grab your ring and rip it off your finger. A pic for the strong of stomach: www.itim.nsw.gov.au/go/objectid/2A3AC703-1321-1C29-70B067DC88E16BFC/index.cfm Besides, rings can easily mar the surface of a turning as you check for finished smoothness. |
#31
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More drill questions
In article ,
Bruce Barnett wrote: 135 degrees is used to cut high alloy steel. (HSS, M2, etc.) For cast iron, aluminum, bronze, plastic,wood, etc. use 118 That's exactly what I was looking for - in addition to George's comment about it not mattering too much for wood. Seems I've seen some company - Fuller, maybe? - that offers a 90 degree point...? -- Owen Lowe Northwest Woodturners Pacific Northwest Woodturning Guild ___ Tips fer Turnin': Place a sign, easily seen as you switch on your lathe, warning you to remove any and all rings from your fingers. Called degloving, extended hardware can grab your ring and rip it off your finger. A pic for the strong of stomach: www.itim.nsw.gov.au/go/objectid/2A3AC703-1321-1C29-70B067DC88E16BFC/index.cfm Besides, rings can easily mar the surface of a turning as you check for finished smoothness. |
#32
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Drilling on the Lathe - 3 Qs
In article ,
"J. Clarke" wrote: If you need smaller, you can get a 61-80 set from Micro-tools http://www.micro-tools.com for 8 bucks. If you need smaller than #80 (.0135), McMaster http://www.mcmaster.com has specialty bits down to .0019 but they're on a 1/32" shank, have limited flute length, and cost about 12 bucks a shot. http://www.store.yahoo.com/drillcity/ has a good assortment as well, including resharpened carbide microbits. Thank you. My local Ace used to carry the really small # drills, but now they've dropped the "Ace" logo and only carry down to #60 - don't know if the two observations are related or not. -- Owen Lowe Northwest Woodturners Pacific Northwest Woodturning Guild ___ Tips fer Turnin': Place a sign, easily seen as you switch on your lathe, warning you to remove any and all rings from your fingers. Called degloving, extended hardware can grab your ring and rip it off your finger. A pic for the strong of stomach: www.itim.nsw.gov.au/go/objectid/2A3AC703-1321-1C29-70B067DC88E16BFC/index.cfm Besides, rings can easily mar the surface of a turning as you check for finished smoothness. |
#33
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Drilling on the Lathe - 3 Qs
In article ,
"Ken Moon" wrote: Probably not. The tail mounted chuck would be automatically centered on the work piece, and, IMO, drill straighter than hand held or drill press held drills. Will giver 'er a shot and see what happens. -- Owen Lowe Northwest Woodturners Pacific Northwest Woodturning Guild ___ Tips fer Turnin': Place a sign, easily seen as you switch on your lathe, warning you to remove any and all rings from your fingers. Called degloving, extended hardware can grab your ring and rip it off your finger. A pic for the strong of stomach: www.itim.nsw.gov.au/go/objectid/2A3AC703-1321-1C29-70B067DC88E16BFC/index.cfm Besides, rings can easily mar the surface of a turning as you check for finished smoothness. |
#34
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Drilling on the Lathe - 3 Qs
In article 5sZvf.21296$uy3.18300@trnddc08,
Lobby Dosser wrote: These are the items I saw with Woodcraft online: http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=784 I didn't see this. I've not seen them at the local place either - but likewise, hadn't looked before. Oh, I see what you found: http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?FamilyID=7349 Would a hand-held tool work better than a tailstock mounted chuck? That's the item. I've never tried drills that small in a tailstock chuck, so I don't really know. I'd guess that there would be more lateral displacement with a drill chuck and wire drill adapter in the tailstock than there would be with the drill in a dremel or a pin vise. I've drilled using the dremel (freehand and mounted on a stand), but prefer using a pin vise. Let us know which way you go and how it works. Well Tigard WC carries both on the pegs. The one you noted from the online catalog looks much better online than in person - especially given the 2x price over the mini-drill chuck. Both, by the way, are made by the same company. I figured I could make up a turned handle/knob for the mini-chuck and end up with the same type of tool if it doesn't work mounted in my full-size 3-jaw drill chuck. Will give it a go, prolly Monday... -- Owen Lowe Northwest Woodturners Pacific Northwest Woodturning Guild ___ Tips fer Turnin': Place a sign, easily seen as you switch on your lathe, warning you to remove any and all rings from your fingers. Called degloving, extended hardware can grab your ring and rip it off your finger. A pic for the strong of stomach: www.itim.nsw.gov.au/go/objectid/2A3AC703-1321-1C29-70B067DC88E16BFC/index.cfm Besides, rings can easily mar the surface of a turning as you check for finished smoothness. |
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Drilling on the Lathe - 3 Qs
Owen Lowe wrote:
Well Tigard WC carries both on the pegs. The one you noted from the online catalog looks much better online than in person Funny how that works! Woodcrafters has MHG chisels (bevel edge). They seem pretty good, but look much better online. - especially given the 2x price over the mini-drill chuck. Both, by the way, are made by the same company. I figured I could make up a turned handle/knob for the mini-chuck and end up with the same type of tool if it doesn't work mounted in my full-size 3-jaw drill chuck. Good idea! |
#36
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More drill questions
Owen Lowe writes:
In article , Bruce Barnett wrote: 135 degrees is used to cut high alloy steel. (HSS, M2, etc.) For cast iron, aluminum, bronze, plastic,wood, etc. use 118 That's exactly what I was looking for - in addition to George's comment about it not mattering too much for wood. Seems I've seen some company - Fuller, maybe? - that offers a 90 degree point...? I was reading in an old book that 90 was ideal for wood. But I can't find that reference. I did find this chart: http://www.tapdie.com/html/drills_guide.html which lists nearly everything EXCEPT wood. -- Sending unsolicited commercial e-mail to this account incurs a fee of $500 per message, and acknowledges the legality of this contract. |
#37
Posted to rec.crafts.woodturning
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Drilling on the Lathe - Followup
In article ,
Owen Lowe wrote: Am planning on making some turned earrings in the next week and will be drilling a very small hole through to attach the ear hardware. 1) Does it make any difference as to wandering if you turn the wood while the bit is stationary or turn the bit and hold the wood? 2) Am drilling Hard Maple with a #60 bit. Any way to keep it on the straight and true? When using this small of a bit, does Q1 come into play any more than with larger bits? Thanks Just wanted to post a followup to this thread. The mini-chuck from Woodcraft was a bust. It was bent and thus rotated off-center. I could have straightened it, but then I wasn't confident it would be true in the future unless I checked it before every use. Since I was wanting to mount this in the tailstock, checking it would require unmounting whatever was in the headstock to install a chuck and re-true. I decided to return it and just use my Albrecht clone keyless chuck - which is supposed to have a 0"-1/2" capacity. Also, the collet threads were rough and not very nice to use - can one expect decent quality for $10? I guess not. I also bought the mini bit set (#61-#80) for $5. Very cheap and not of particularly high quality. However, I noticed an identical looking set at my local Ace Hardware in the metal grinding and welding section going for $11. I decided to keep the Woodcraft set just to have them on hand since the Ace store has stopped selling individual bits smaller than #60 in the last couple years. As to drilling into the endgrain of hard maple, I tried George's suggestion to reverse the lathe and "burn" the bit through. Worked like a charm. Not sure how large a bit could successfully use this method, but the #60 bit (.040") accomplished the task just fine. The through holes were spot on or very nearly so with regard to parting off the wood and having the "inner" hole in the center. On my previous 2 tries drilling in the traditional manner, the "inner" holes were not centered well enough to be confident of the results. Thanks to all who took the time to offer opinions. -- Owen Lowe Northwest Woodturners Pacific Northwest Woodturning Guild ___ Tips fer Turnin': Place a sign, easily seen as you switch on your lathe, warning you to remove any and all rings from your fingers. Called degloving, extended hardware can grab your ring and rip it off your finger. A pic for the strong of stomach: www.itim.nsw.gov.au/go/objectid/2A3AC703-1321-1C29-70B067DC88E16BFC/index.cfm Besides, rings can easily mar the surface of a turning as you check for finished smoothness. |
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