Am planning on making some turned earrings in the next week and will be
drilling a very small hole through to attach the ear hardware.

1) Does it make any difference as to wandering if you turn the wood
while the bit is stationary or turn the bit and hold the wood?

2) Am drilling Hard Maple with a #60 bit. Any way to keep it on the
straight and true? When using this small of a bit, does Q1 come into
play any more than with larger bits?

Thanks

--
Owen Lowe

Northwest Woodturners
Pacific Northwest Woodturning Guild
___
Tips fer Turnin': Place a sign, easily seen as you switch on your lathe, warning you to remove any and all rings from your fingers. Called degloving, extended hardware can grab your ring and rip it off your finger. A pic for the strong of stomach: www.itim.nsw.gov.au/go/objectid/2A3AC703-1321-1C29-70B067DC88E16BFC/index.cfm

Besides, rings can easily mar the surface of a turning as you check for finished smoothness.

Owen Lowe wrote:

Am planning on making some turned earrings in the next week and will
be drilling a very small hole through to attach the ear hardware.

1) Does it make any difference as to wandering if you turn the wood
while the bit is stationary or turn the bit and hold the wood?

2) Am drilling Hard Maple with a #60 bit. Any way to keep it on the
straight and true? When using this small of a bit, does Q1 come into
play any more than with larger bits?

Thanks


I'd hold the wood and turn the bit for a drill that small. Unless you are
making a lot of them, you might think about using a pin vise. I've had
better luck keeping true when using a pin vise rather than a Dremel or
similar. Oh, and give the wood a pinprick where you want the hole to help
center and start the bit.

If you don't have a pin vise and can't find one local, give me a shout and
I'll have SWMBO bring one down.

LD

Hello Owen,

I don't think the wood cares whether the drill is rotating or the wood itself.
The important part with that small of a bit is to have a center point in the
wood to fit the drill and the drill needs to be perpendicular to the surface in
which it is drilling. I normally drill small holes such as you are planning with
a hand held drill chuck, a small one for holding small drill bits, and the wood
rotating. I use a center punch to make an indent for the drill at the point
where I want to drill.

Fred Holder
http://www.fholder.com

In article , Owen Lowe
says...

Am planning on making some turned earrings in the next week and will be
drilling a very small hole through to attach the ear hardware.

1) Does it make any difference as to wandering if you turn the wood
while the bit is stationary or turn the bit and hold the wood?

2) Am drilling Hard Maple with a #60 bit. Any way to keep it on the
straight and true? When using this small of a bit, does Q1 come into
play any more than with larger bits?

Thanks

"Owen Lowe" wrote in message
news
Am planning on making some turned earrings in the next week and will be
drilling a very small hole through to attach the ear hardware.

1) Does it make any difference as to wandering if you turn the wood
while the bit is stationary or turn the bit and hold the wood?

2) Am drilling Hard Maple with a #60 bit. Any way to keep it on the
straight and true? When using this small of a bit, does Q1 come into
play any more than with larger bits?

Thanks

--
Owen Lowe

Northwest Woodturners
Pacific Northwest Woodturning Guild
___
Tips fer Turnin': Place a sign, easily seen as you switch on your lathe,
warning you to remove any and all rings from your fingers. Called degloving,
extended hardware can grab your ring and rip it off your finger. A pic for
the strong of stomach:
http://www.itim.nsw.gov.au/go/object...E16BFC/index.c
fm

Besides, rings can easily mar the surface of a turning as you check for
finished smoothness.

I saw David Hout on the DIY channel make a pair of earrngs, and he used a
cordless drill in reverse to drill the hole with what he called a standard
drill bit. I am not sure I understand all this but I watched him do it on tv
without splitting the tiny earring. IIRC they were made of Padauk. Hope this
helps.
Lyndell

On Wed, 04 Jan 2006 11:13:25 -0800, Owen Lowe
wrote:

Am planning on making some turned earrings in the next week and will be
drilling a very small hole through to attach the ear hardware.

1) Does it make any difference as to wandering if you turn the wood
while the bit is stationary or turn the bit and hold the wood?

Owen,

I frequently make earrings and the like that require tiny holes, and
have honestly found that using a pin vise is more than adequate for
this size hole, in even the hardest of exotic hardwoods. Maple is no
problem at all, and using the pin vise gives you very precise control.
Takes literally seconds to drill holes even an inch deep.


--
Chuck *#:^)
chaz3913(AT)yahoo(DOT)com
Anti-spam sig: please remove "NO SPAM" from e-mail address to reply.


September 11, 2001 - Never Forget

----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==----
http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups
----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =----

"Lyndell Thompson" wrote in message
ink.net...

I saw David Hout on the DIY channel make a pair of earrngs, and he used a
cordless drill in reverse to drill the hole with what he called a standard
drill bit. I am not sure I understand all this but I watched him do it on
tv
without splitting the tiny earring. IIRC they were made of Padauk. Hope
this
helps.
Lyndell


Yep. Dull would pretty much burn its way through. Probably the best way to
go. The differential stress on the spiral sides of the bit start the
wander, and it's exacerbated by the differential density in the wood.

Chuck up a soft iron brad and burn 'er through. Or use a grinder instead of
a spiraled bit and sand your way through.

Owen Lowe wrote:
Am planning on making some turned earrings in the next week and will be
drilling a very small hole through to attach the ear hardware.

1) Does it make any difference as to wandering if you turn the wood
while the bit is stationary or turn the bit and hold the wood?

2) Am drilling Hard Maple with a #60 bit. Any way to keep it on the
straight and true? When using this small of a bit, does Q1 come into
play any more than with larger bits?

Thanks

Don't know what a #60 bit is, but sounds pretty small. When I've had to
drill really small holes in the past w/o wandering I've used my dremel.
At really high speeds it doesn't seem to want to grab and wander
around. George can explain why. g I just know it's worked for me...

....Kevin
--
Kevin Miller
http://www.alaska.net/~atftb
Juneau, Alaska
Registered Linux User No: 307357

In article fuXuf.3696$QI6.2976@trnddc07,
Lobby Dosser wrote:

If you don't have a pin vise and can't find one local, give me a shout and
I'll have SWMBO bring one down.

Thanks for the offer Lobby. Woodcraft sells a pin chuck for $10 and a
set of #80-#60 (IIRC) drills for $5. I'll probably just swing by there
on Saturday and get them for my own tool drawer. This isn't the first
time I could have used it/them and certainly won't be the last.

--
Owen Lowe

Northwest Woodturners
Pacific Northwest Woodturning Guild
___
Tips fer Turnin': Place a sign, easily seen as you switch on your lathe, warning you to remove any and all rings from your fingers. Called degloving, extended hardware can grab your ring and rip it off your finger. A pic for the strong of stomach: www.itim.nsw.gov.au/go/objectid/2A3AC703-1321-1C29-70B067DC88E16BFC/index.cfm

Besides, rings can easily mar the surface of a turning as you check for finished smoothness.

In article ,
Kevin Miller wrote:

Don't know what a #60 bit is, but sounds pretty small. When I've had to
drill really small holes in the past w/o wandering I've used my dremel.
At really high speeds it doesn't seem to want to grab and wander
around. George can explain why. g I just know it's worked for me...

Yeah, it's the smallest drill that my local Ace carries. I wanted even
smaller but was out of luck. The #60 is .040". I hadn't thought of my
Dremel and may give that a try. Lots of option advice given: high speed,
burn, reverse direction - will post what worked the best.

--
Owen Lowe

Northwest Woodturners
Pacific Northwest Woodturning Guild
___
Tips fer Turnin': Place a sign, easily seen as you switch on your lathe, warning you to remove any and all rings from your fingers. Called degloving, extended hardware can grab your ring and rip it off your finger. A pic for the strong of stomach: www.itim.nsw.gov.au/go/objectid/2A3AC703-1321-1C29-70B067DC88E16BFC/index.cfm

Besides, rings can easily mar the surface of a turning as you check for finished smoothness.

In article . net,
"Lyndell Thompson" wrote:

I saw David Hout on the DIY channel make a pair of earrngs, and he used a
cordless drill in reverse to drill the hole with what he called a standard
drill bit. I am not sure I understand all this but I watched him do it on tv
without splitting the tiny earring. IIRC they were made of Padauk. Hope this
helps.

Hmmmm. Reverse direction... wouldn't have ever thought of that one.

--
Owen Lowe

Northwest Woodturners
Pacific Northwest Woodturning Guild
___
Tips fer Turnin': Place a sign, easily seen as you switch on your lathe, warning you to remove any and all rings from your fingers. Called degloving, extended hardware can grab your ring and rip it off your finger. A pic for the strong of stomach: www.itim.nsw.gov.au/go/objectid/2A3AC703-1321-1C29-70B067DC88E16BFC/index.cfm

Besides, rings can easily mar the surface of a turning as you check for finished smoothness.

In article , "George" George@least
wrote:

Chuck up a soft iron brad and burn 'er through. Or use a grinder instead of
a spiraled bit and sand your way through.

What does "use a grinder...and sand your way through" mean? In this
instance, what's a grinder?

--
Owen Lowe

Northwest Woodturners
Pacific Northwest Woodturning Guild
___
Tips fer Turnin': Place a sign, easily seen as you switch on your lathe, warning you to remove any and all rings from your fingers. Called degloving, extended hardware can grab your ring and rip it off your finger. A pic for the strong of stomach: www.itim.nsw.gov.au/go/objectid/2A3AC703-1321-1C29-70B067DC88E16BFC/index.cfm

Besides, rings can easily mar the surface of a turning as you check for finished smoothness.

Owen Lowe wrote:

In article fuXuf.3696$QI6.2976@trnddc07,
Lobby Dosser wrote:

If you don't have a pin vise and can't find one local, give me a
shout and I'll have SWMBO bring one down.

Thanks for the offer Lobby. Woodcraft sells a pin chuck for $10 and a
set of #80-#60 (IIRC) drills for $5. I'll probably just swing by there
on Saturday and get them for my own tool drawer. This isn't the first
time I could have used it/them and certainly won't be the last.


There's a nice looking set at Woodcraft online for $18, but I don't see one
for $10. Might want to call them. I don't recall ever seeing one in the
store. 'Course, I wasn't looking for one.

Owen Lowe wrote:

In article ,
Kevin Miller wrote:

Don't know what a #60 bit is, but sounds pretty small. When I've had
to drill really small holes in the past w/o wandering I've used my
dremel.
At really high speeds it doesn't seem to want to grab and wander
around. George can explain why. g I just know it's worked for
me...

Yeah, it's the smallest drill that my local Ace carries. I wanted even
smaller but was out of luck. The #60 is .040". I hadn't thought of my
Dremel and may give that a try. Lots of option advice given: high
speed, burn, reverse direction - will post what worked the best.


Watch out for lateral pressure with the Dremel. You can break bits pretty
quickly.

"Owen Lowe" wrote in message
news
In article , "George" George@least
wrote:

Chuck up a soft iron brad and burn 'er through. Or use a grinder instead
of
a spiraled bit and sand your way through.

What does "use a grinder...and sand your way through" mean? In this
instance, what's a grinder?

Grinder as in ball grinder. Like the dentist's burr. Fast speed and small
bites is the key to minimizing outside influences such as grain and grab.

Some machinists think there's a difference between making holes with the
work rotating and the bit steady (boring) and the bit rotating and the
work steady (drilling). I don't know why other than boring is better for
making large holes. Anyone?

I know it works from the days before plywood when I nailed #3 sheeting
on roofs, but I don't know why dulling the tip of a nail helps to make
it go straight and not split the lumber. Somebody?


Turn to Safety, Arch
Fortiter



http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings

Owen Lowe wrote:

In article ,
Kevin Miller wrote:

Don't know what a #60 bit is, but sounds pretty small. When I've had to
drill really small holes in the past w/o wandering I've used my dremel.
At really high speeds it doesn't seem to want to grab and wander
around. George can explain why. g I just know it's worked for me...

Yeah, it's the smallest drill that my local Ace carries. I wanted even
smaller but was out of luck. The #60 is .040". I hadn't thought of my
Dremel and may give that a try. Lots of option advice given: high speed,
burn, reverse direction - will post what worked the best.

If you need smaller, you can get a 61-80 set from Micro-tools
http://www.micro-tools.com for 8 bucks. If you need smaller than #80
(.0135), McMaster http://www.mcmaster.com has specialty bits down
to .0019 but they're on a 1/32" shank, have limited flute length, and cost
about 12 bucks a shot. http://www.store.yahoo.com/drillcity/ has a good
assortment as well, including resharpened carbide microbits.

--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

(Arch) wrote:

Some machinists think there's a difference between making holes with
the work rotating and the bit steady (boring) and the bit rotating and
the work steady (drilling). I don't know why other than boring is
better for making large holes. Anyone?

I know it works from the days before plywood when I nailed #3 sheeting
on roofs, but I don't know why dulling the tip of a nail helps to make
it go straight and not split the lumber. Somebody?

Dull nail crushes the fibers. Pointy nail pushes them apart. I've got some
new old timey square cut nails around somewhere and they almost never split
the wood.

Arch wrote:

Some machinists think there's a difference between making holes with the
work rotating and the bit steady (boring) and the bit rotating and the
work steady (drilling). I don't know why other than boring is better for
making large holes. Anyone?

One thing you can do by boring is support the boring bar at both ends and
move the work along it. Also, if the boring-bar doesn't have to be
balanced it can be made stiffer. You'd be doing that after you had a
through-hole into which you could insert the bar though.

I know it works from the days before plywood when I nailed #3 sheeting
on roofs, but I don't know why dulling the tip of a nail helps to make
it go straight and not split the lumber. Somebody?


Turn to Safety, Arch
Fortiter



http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings

--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

In article , "George" George@least
wrote:

Grinder as in ball grinder. Like the dentist's burr. Fast speed and small
bites is the key to minimizing outside influences such as grain and grab.

I hadn't thought of that idea either - thanks. Problem I see with that
is the shafts, AFAIR, are larger than the ball so wouldn't drill very
deep. I need to go through about an inch or more of wood.

--
Owen Lowe

Northwest Woodturners
Pacific Northwest Woodturning Guild
___
Tips fer Turnin': Place a sign, easily seen as you switch on your lathe, warning you to remove any and all rings from your fingers. Called degloving, extended hardware can grab your ring and rip it off your finger. A pic for the strong of stomach: www.itim.nsw.gov.au/go/objectid/2A3AC703-1321-1C29-70B067DC88E16BFC/index.cfm

Besides, rings can easily mar the surface of a turning as you check for finished smoothness.

In article v7zvf.2711$uy3.2186@trnddc08,
Lobby Dosser wrote:

There's a nice looking set at Woodcraft online for $18, but I don't see one
for $10. Might want to call them. I don't recall ever seeing one in the
store. 'Course, I wasn't looking for one.

These are the items I saw with Woodcraft online:
http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=784
I've not seen them at the local place either - but likewise, hadn't
looked before.

Oh, I see what you found:
http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?FamilyID=7349 Would a hand-held
tool work better than a tailstock mounted chuck?

--
Owen Lowe

Northwest Woodturners
Pacific Northwest Woodturning Guild
___
Tips fer Turnin': Place a sign, easily seen as you switch on your lathe, warning you to remove any and all rings from your fingers. Called degloving, extended hardware can grab your ring and rip it off your finger. A pic for the strong of stomach: www.itim.nsw.gov.au/go/objectid/2A3AC703-1321-1C29-70B067DC88E16BFC/index.cfm

Besides, rings can easily mar the surface of a turning as you check for finished smoothness.

A fourth drilling question has sprung to mind as to drilling wood:

Given the choice of 135 degree or 118 degree (or other angles) of grind
on a drill, when do you choose one over the other?

--
Owen Lowe

Northwest Woodturners
Pacific Northwest Woodturning Guild
___
Tips fer Turnin': Place a sign, easily seen as you switch on your lathe, warning you to remove any and all rings from your fingers. Called degloving, extended hardware can grab your ring and rip it off your finger. A pic for the strong of stomach: www.itim.nsw.gov.au/go/objectid/2A3AC703-1321-1C29-70B067DC88E16BFC/index.cfm

Besides, rings can easily mar the surface of a turning as you check for finished smoothness.

"Owen Lowe" wrote in message
news
A fourth drilling question has sprung to mind as to drilling wood:

Given the choice of 135 degree or 118 degree (or other angles) of grind
on a drill, when do you choose one over the other?

Material. Wood isn't really consistent enough to make a difference. Seems
to respond best to score and scrape - bits with ears to guide, not points.

Owen Lowe writes:

A fourth drilling question has sprung to mind as to drilling wood:

Given the choice of 135 degree or 118 degree (or other angles) of grind
on a drill, when do you choose one over the other?

135 degrees is used to cut high alloy steel. (HSS, M2, etc.)
For cast iron, aluminum, bronze, plastic,wood, etc. use 118

--
Sending unsolicited commercial e-mail to this account incurs a fee of
$500 per message, and acknowledges the legality of this contract.

that picture is enough for me to take my ring off !!

--
Bill .

Owen Lowe wrote:
In article , "George" George@least
wrote:

Grinder as in ball grinder. Like the dentist's burr. Fast speed and small
bites is the key to minimizing outside influences such as grain and grab.

I hadn't thought of that idea either - thanks. Problem I see with that
is the shafts, AFAIR, are larger than the ball so wouldn't drill very
deep. I need to go through about an inch or more of wood.

After you got in a quarter inch or so you could switch to a straight
bit. Wandering won't be an issue at that point...

....Kevin
--
Kevin Miller
http://www.alaska.net/~atftb
Juneau, Alaska
Registered Linux User No: 307357

"Kevin Miller" wrote in message
...
Owen Lowe wrote:
In article , "George" George@least wrote:

Grinder as in ball grinder. Like the dentist's burr. Fast speed and
small bites is the key to minimizing outside influences such as grain
and grab.

I hadn't thought of that idea either - thanks. Problem I see with that is
the shafts, AFAIR, are larger than the ball so wouldn't drill very deep.
I need to go through about an inch or more of wood.

After you got in a quarter inch or so you could switch to a straight bit.
Wandering won't be an issue at that point...


Or use a wire like they use for a root canal ....

"root canal"? George, how could you use language like that on a family news
group? Those are curse words where I come from. Why does my dentist have my
finger inpressions in the arms of his chair, you ask? :-)

--
God bless and safe turning
Darrell Feltmate
Truro, NS Canada
www.aroundthewoods.com

Owen Lowe wrote:

In article v7zvf.2711$uy3.2186@trnddc08,
Lobby Dosser wrote:

There's a nice looking set at Woodcraft online for $18, but I don't
see one for $10. Might want to call them. I don't recall ever seeing
one in the store. 'Course, I wasn't looking for one.

These are the items I saw with Woodcraft online:
http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=784

I didn't see this.

I've not seen them at the local place either - but likewise, hadn't
looked before.

Oh, I see what you found:
http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?FamilyID=7349 Would a hand-held
tool work better than a tailstock mounted chuck?

That's the item. I've never tried drills that small in a tailstock chuck,
so I don't really know. I'd guess that there would be more lateral
displacement with a drill chuck and wire drill adapter in the tailstock
than there would be with the drill in a dremel or a pin vise. I've
drilled using the dremel (freehand and mounted on a stand), but prefer
using a pin vise.

Let us know which way you go and how it works.

"Owen Lowe" wrote in message
news
In article v7zvf.2711$uy3.2186@trnddc08,
Lobby Dosser wrote:

There's a nice looking set at Woodcraft online for $18, but I don't see
one
for $10. Might want to call them. I don't recall ever seeing one in the
store. 'Course, I wasn't looking for one.

These are the items I saw with Woodcraft online:
http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=784
I've not seen them at the local place either - but likewise, hadn't
looked before.

Oh, I see what you found:
http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?FamilyID=7349 Would a hand-held
tool work better than a tailstock mounted chuck?
========================
Probably not. The tail mounted chuck would be automatically centered on the
work piece, and, IMO, drill straighter than hand held or drill press held
drills.

Ken Moon
Webberville, TX.

In article ,
"Bill Gooch" wrote:

that picture is enough for me to take my ring off !!

Yeah, but I've still not gotten in the habit yet.

--
Owen Lowe

Northwest Woodturners
Pacific Northwest Woodturning Guild
___
Tips fer Turnin': Place a sign, easily seen as you switch on your lathe, warning you to remove any and all rings from your fingers. Called degloving, extended hardware can grab your ring and rip it off your finger. A pic for the strong of stomach: www.itim.nsw.gov.au/go/objectid/2A3AC703-1321-1C29-70B067DC88E16BFC/index.cfm

Besides, rings can easily mar the surface of a turning as you check for finished smoothness.

In article ,
Bruce Barnett wrote:

135 degrees is used to cut high alloy steel. (HSS, M2, etc.)
For cast iron, aluminum, bronze, plastic,wood, etc. use 118

That's exactly what I was looking for - in addition to George's comment
about it not mattering too much for wood. Seems I've seen some company -
Fuller, maybe? - that offers a 90 degree point...?

--
Owen Lowe

Northwest Woodturners
Pacific Northwest Woodturning Guild
___
Tips fer Turnin': Place a sign, easily seen as you switch on your lathe, warning you to remove any and all rings from your fingers. Called degloving, extended hardware can grab your ring and rip it off your finger. A pic for the strong of stomach: www.itim.nsw.gov.au/go/objectid/2A3AC703-1321-1C29-70B067DC88E16BFC/index.cfm

Besides, rings can easily mar the surface of a turning as you check for finished smoothness.

In article ,
"J. Clarke" wrote:

If you need smaller, you can get a 61-80 set from Micro-tools
http://www.micro-tools.com for 8 bucks. If you need smaller than #80
(.0135), McMaster http://www.mcmaster.com has specialty bits down
to .0019 but they're on a 1/32" shank, have limited flute length, and cost
about 12 bucks a shot. http://www.store.yahoo.com/drillcity/ has a good
assortment as well, including resharpened carbide microbits.

Thank you. My local Ace used to carry the really small # drills, but now
they've dropped the "Ace" logo and only carry down to #60 - don't know
if the two observations are related or not.

--
Owen Lowe

Northwest Woodturners
Pacific Northwest Woodturning Guild
___
Tips fer Turnin': Place a sign, easily seen as you switch on your lathe, warning you to remove any and all rings from your fingers. Called degloving, extended hardware can grab your ring and rip it off your finger. A pic for the strong of stomach: www.itim.nsw.gov.au/go/objectid/2A3AC703-1321-1C29-70B067DC88E16BFC/index.cfm

Besides, rings can easily mar the surface of a turning as you check for finished smoothness.

In article ,
"Ken Moon" wrote:

Probably not. The tail mounted chuck would be automatically centered on the
work piece, and, IMO, drill straighter than hand held or drill press held
drills.

Will giver 'er a shot and see what happens.

--
Owen Lowe

Northwest Woodturners
Pacific Northwest Woodturning Guild
___
Tips fer Turnin': Place a sign, easily seen as you switch on your lathe, warning you to remove any and all rings from your fingers. Called degloving, extended hardware can grab your ring and rip it off your finger. A pic for the strong of stomach: www.itim.nsw.gov.au/go/objectid/2A3AC703-1321-1C29-70B067DC88E16BFC/index.cfm

Besides, rings can easily mar the surface of a turning as you check for finished smoothness.

In article 5sZvf.21296$uy3.18300@trnddc08,
Lobby Dosser wrote:

These are the items I saw with Woodcraft online:
http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=784

I didn't see this.

I've not seen them at the local place either - but likewise, hadn't
looked before.

Oh, I see what you found:
http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?FamilyID=7349 Would a hand-held
tool work better than a tailstock mounted chuck?

That's the item. I've never tried drills that small in a tailstock chuck,
so I don't really know. I'd guess that there would be more lateral
displacement with a drill chuck and wire drill adapter in the tailstock
than there would be with the drill in a dremel or a pin vise. I've
drilled using the dremel (freehand and mounted on a stand), but prefer
using a pin vise.

Let us know which way you go and how it works.

Well Tigard WC carries both on the pegs. The one you noted from the
online catalog looks much better online than in person - especially
given the 2x price over the mini-drill chuck. Both, by the way, are made
by the same company. I figured I could make up a turned handle/knob for
the mini-chuck and end up with the same type of tool if it doesn't work
mounted in my full-size 3-jaw drill chuck.

Will give it a go, prolly Monday...

--
Owen Lowe

Northwest Woodturners
Pacific Northwest Woodturning Guild
___
Tips fer Turnin': Place a sign, easily seen as you switch on your lathe, warning you to remove any and all rings from your fingers. Called degloving, extended hardware can grab your ring and rip it off your finger. A pic for the strong of stomach: www.itim.nsw.gov.au/go/objectid/2A3AC703-1321-1C29-70B067DC88E16BFC/index.cfm

Besides, rings can easily mar the surface of a turning as you check for finished smoothness.

Owen Lowe wrote:

Well Tigard WC carries both on the pegs. The one you noted from the
online catalog looks much better online than in person

Funny how that works!

Woodcrafters has MHG chisels (bevel edge). They seem pretty good, but
look much better online.

- especially given the 2x price over the mini-drill chuck. Both, by
the way, are made by the same company. I figured I could make up a
turned handle/knob for the mini-chuck and end up with the same
type of tool if it doesn't work mounted in my full-size 3-jaw drill
chuck.

Good idea!

Owen Lowe writes:

In article ,
Bruce Barnett wrote:

135 degrees is used to cut high alloy steel. (HSS, M2, etc.)
For cast iron, aluminum, bronze, plastic,wood, etc. use 118

That's exactly what I was looking for - in addition to George's comment
about it not mattering too much for wood. Seems I've seen some company -
Fuller, maybe? - that offers a 90 degree point...?

I was reading in an old book that 90 was ideal for wood.
But I can't find that reference. I did find this chart:

http://www.tapdie.com/html/drills_guide.html

which lists nearly everything EXCEPT wood.



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In article ,
Owen Lowe wrote:

Am planning on making some turned earrings in the next week and will be
drilling a very small hole through to attach the ear hardware.

1) Does it make any difference as to wandering if you turn the wood
while the bit is stationary or turn the bit and hold the wood?

2) Am drilling Hard Maple with a #60 bit. Any way to keep it on the
straight and true? When using this small of a bit, does Q1 come into
play any more than with larger bits?

Thanks

Just wanted to post a followup to this thread.

The mini-chuck from Woodcraft was a bust. It was bent and thus rotated
off-center. I could have straightened it, but then I wasn't confident it
would be true in the future unless I checked it before every use. Since
I was wanting to mount this in the tailstock, checking it would require
unmounting whatever was in the headstock to install a chuck and re-true.
I decided to return it and just use my Albrecht clone keyless chuck -
which is supposed to have a 0"-1/2" capacity. Also, the collet threads
were rough and not very nice to use - can one expect decent quality for
$10? I guess not.

I also bought the mini bit set (#61-#80) for $5. Very cheap and not of
particularly high quality. However, I noticed an identical looking set
at my local Ace Hardware in the metal grinding and welding section going
for $11. I decided to keep the Woodcraft set just to have them on hand
since the Ace store has stopped selling individual bits smaller than #60
in the last couple years.

As to drilling into the endgrain of hard maple, I tried George's
suggestion to reverse the lathe and "burn" the bit through. Worked like
a charm. Not sure how large a bit could successfully use this method,
but the #60 bit (.040") accomplished the task just fine. The through
holes were spot on or very nearly so with regard to parting off the wood
and having the "inner" hole in the center. On my previous 2 tries
drilling in the traditional manner, the "inner" holes were not centered
well enough to be confident of the results.

Thanks to all who took the time to offer opinions.

--
Owen Lowe

Northwest Woodturners
Pacific Northwest Woodturning Guild
___
Tips fer Turnin': Place a sign, easily seen as you switch on your lathe, warning you to remove any and all rings from your fingers. Called degloving, extended hardware can grab your ring and rip it off your finger. A pic for the strong of stomach: www.itim.nsw.gov.au/go/objectid/2A3AC703-1321-1C29-70B067DC88E16BFC/index.cfm

Besides, rings can easily mar the surface of a turning as you check for finished smoothness.