Anyone have propety damage after the storm?


--
Posted via Mailgate.ORG Server - http://www.Mailgate.ORG

"Michael Mcneil" wrote in message
news:84e217f4259682a488b038a045b62afe.45219@mygate .mailgate.org...
Anyone have propety damage after the storm?


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Posted via Mailgate.ORG Server - http://www.Mailgate.ORG

Yep, lost a few roof tiles and ridge tiles and ariel mast.
Can I get through to the insurance co.? Can I hell......... constantly
engaged.
Iain

"Iain Gordon" wrote in message
.. .
"Michael Mcneil" wrote in message
news:84e217f4259682a488b038a045b62afe.45219@mygate .mailgate.org...
Anyone have propety damage after the storm?


--
Posted via Mailgate.ORG Server - http://www.Mailgate.ORG

Yep, lost a few roof tiles and ridge tiles and ariel mast.
[snip]

You mean you keep your washing powder up a mast?? (or did you mean a rather
overweight Israeli politician?)

No hang on, you must mean the spirit of the air from The Tempest, right?
Sounds like the air has got a bit too much spirit at the moment!

:-) :-)

Rick

On Sat, 8 Jan 2005 09:08:26 +0000 (UTC), "Michael Mcneil"
wrote:

Anyone have propety damage after the storm?

Three or 4 ridge tiles and a couple of fence panels.

--
Frank Erskine
Sunderland

"Frank Erskine" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 8 Jan 2005 09:08:26 +0000 (UTC), "Michael Mcneil"
wrote:

Anyone have propety damage after the storm?

Three or 4 ridge tiles and a couple of fence panels.

--
Frank Erskine
Sunderland

I've been trying to contact Woolwich/Barclays Insurance since 9.00 this
morning.
Got in a queue at one point for 35 minutes then got cut off. Since then,
when its not engaged, the number rings, gets picked up then immediately
dropped. Looks like their systems have gone tits up.

Iain

What storm??? ;-)

--
Real email address is RJS at BIGFOOT dot COM

The information contained in this post
may not be published in, or used by

http://www.diyprojects.info

"Michael Mcneil" wrote
| Anyone have propety damage after the storm?

Yes.

Several tons of road and revetment wall decided to descend twenty ft into my
back garden. I am going to have so much fun talking to the council ...

Owain

"Michael Mcneil" wrote in message
news:84e217f4259682a488b038a045b62afe.45219@mygate .mailgate.org...
Anyone have propety damage after the storm?


--
Posted via Mailgate.ORG Server - http://www.Mailgate.ORG

Only a full grown rowan tree down in the garden, landed right across my
raspberry plants, too

The Q in Deepest Norfolk

A field shelter. Pulled up two ground anchors at the front, did a 360 degree
roll taking out about 4 * 100 mm post and rail posts. Left two happy
shetlands because they were able to spend the night stuffing themselves in
the field.

"Michael Mcneil" wrote in message
news:84e217f4259682a488b038a045b62afe.45219@mygate .mailgate.org...
Anyone have propety damage after the storm?


Not really. But lots of firewood to gather up :-)

Sheep are well ****ed off though. They shelter behind a dry stone wall but
have eaten all the grass there.

In message lgate.org,
Michael Mcneil writes
Anyone have propety damage after the storm?

Just one tile off, embedded in the lawn, fortunately it missed the car
unlike the last storm released tile . . . oh and spent some time
clearing the garden of the distributed contents of the previously full
recycle wheelie bin.

--
bof at bof dot me dot uk

On Sat, 8 Jan 2005 09:08:26 +0000 (UTC), Michael Mcneil wrote:

Anyone have propety damage after the storm?

Lost half a slate and another is rattling.

Gale F8 Gale and up to Severe Gale F9 (40 to 50mph sustained) with
gusts to the low 60s mph. Windiest it has been for a longtime but we
have had worse.

--
Cheers Dave.
Nr Garrigill, Cumbria. 421m ASL. pam is missing e-mail

"Michael Mcneil" wrote in message
news:84e217f4259682a488b038a045b62afe.45219@mygate .mailgate.org...
Anyone have propety damage after the storm?

One hip tile, then, as we stood in the garden looking around for any
more damage, 45ft run of outbuilding roof (one side of a pitched roof)
lifted into the air and smashed itself all over the neighbour's garden.

It's going to be an interesting one to sort out with the insurers - it
would be daft to repair it "as was", and the rather rickety brick
outbuildings will not readily lend themselves to more sophisticated roof
designs.

Meanwhile, we've moved as much stuff as possible into other sheds and
the spare chicken caravan, sheeted over the rest, and bought a few
sheets of coated OSB to do some temporary bodges. All we need now is a
strong easterly to remove the other half of the roof...

Ho hum


--
Kevin Poole
**Use current month and year to reply (e.g. )***

the q wrote:
"Michael Mcneil" wrote in message
news:84e217f4259682a488b038a045b62afe.45219@mygate .mailgate.org...
Anyone have propety damage after the storm?

Only a full grown rowan tree down in the garden, landed right across
my raspberry plants, too

I woke up to find a hawthorn tree across my driveway. Had to shift it
without the benefit of heavy-duty gloves (emphasis on 'thorn' in the tree's
name), as to buy some I would have had to get my car past the bloody
thing...

Good thing I've got a decent saw though. Have now bought those gloves that
I had been meaning to get...

In message lgate.org,
Michael Mcneil writes
Anyone have propety damage after the storm?

No

--
geoff

Re wind damage, JM wrote:

I woke up to find a hawthorn tree across my driveway. Had to shift it
without the benefit of heavy-duty gloves (emphasis on 'thorn' in the tree's
name), as to buy some I would have had to get my car past the bloody
thing...

Good thing I've got a decent saw though. Have now bought those gloves that
I had been meaning to get...

Glad to hear that was the worst of it. But that reminds me to ask...

I'm about to take over about a third of an acre of what's meant to be
wooded paddock, but is largely overrun at ground level by brambles. The
previous owner has managed to return some of it to grass, but has really
only, er, scratched the surface of the problem.

How can I finish the job, as permanently as possible?

By the time we get in there, the new spring growth will be well under
way, so the first problem will be to clear the existing growth and try
to knock the main roots back. Gardening books and websites talk about
slicing around the roots of each plant - fine in a flower bed, but I
will need quicker and more drastic methods.

Obviously it will then be a life sentence of mowing, mowing, mowing to
keep the suckers down... but that's the way of it. We'll be sure to
leave a small area to reward ourselves with blackberry pies.

Any specific brand recommendations about genuinely thornproof gloves,
strong enough to let you grab a bramble sucker and haul on it?


--
Ian White
Abingdon, England

The message
from Ian White contains these words:

Any specific brand recommendations about genuinely thornproof gloves,
strong enough to let you grab a bramble sucker and haul on it?

With care any cheap thick leather glove should do. Bramble thorns aren't
quite in the same league as thorn and pullable suckers are relatively
small and soft. Screwfix do 'superior riggers' gloves at £1.89 per pair
and 'ultimate riggers' at £2.79. A bit pricy if you want nothing else
but if the quality of the ultimate ones haven't changed they even last a
good while on gritstone walling which can't be said for the cheaper ones
or the skin on my ingers without them.

I use a mattock to dig out mature bramble roots (and thorn bushes, etc).

--
Roger

Ian White wrote:
Re wind damage, JM wrote:


I'm about to take over about a third of an acre of what's meant to be
wooded paddock, but is largely overrun at ground level by brambles. The
previous owner has managed to return some of it to grass, but has really
only, er, scratched the surface of the problem.

How can I finish the job, as permanently as possible?

I found a hired cultivator was very effective in destroying the vigour
of very well-established brambles - I cut 'em down to near ground level
first by (ab)using a hedge trimmer, then made a couple of passes with a
Serious and heavy cultivator, getting down I'spose about 15cm. The
little slices of bramble root all tried sprouting next season, but
inbetween mulching and pulling up any more vigorous shoots (which had no
root structure to speak of), they didn't get hold.

However, this was only a long strip for a new hedge - 50m long but
little more than 1m wide. Whether the approach would scale to your
paddock without requiring an infeasible amount of labour, I'm not sure.
(Maybe a local farmer/contractor would do you the equivalent of the
cultivator application using a suitable attachment on the back of their
trusty Massey for a few beer vouchers!)

Any specific brand recommendations about genuinely thornproof gloves,
strong enough to let you grab a bramble sucker and haul on it?

Screwfix's welding guantlets do it for me - brambles aren't seriously
nasty thorns (unlike the blackthorn which makes up some 30% of the mix I
planted ;-), so they're more than up to the job, and the extended
wrist/lower forearm coverage is handy.

HTH - Stefek

raden wrote:

In message lgate.org,
Michael Mcneil writes

Anyone have propety damage after the storm?

No

Me niether as far as I can tell.

Which is unusual.

But most of the dodgy trees fell over years ago or were cut down last year.

Out here is was not the worst I have seen by a long chalk.

Another one due in a day or two allegedly.

Ian White wrote:

Re wind damage, JM wrote:


I woke up to find a hawthorn tree across my driveway. Had to shift it
without the benefit of heavy-duty gloves (emphasis on 'thorn' in the
tree's
name), as to buy some I would have had to get my car past the bloody
thing...

Good thing I've got a decent saw though. Have now bought those gloves
that
I had been meaning to get...

Glad to hear that was the worst of it. But that reminds me to ask...

I'm about to take over about a third of an acre of what's meant to be
wooded paddock, but is largely overrun at ground level by brambles. The
previous owner has managed to return some of it to grass, but has really
only, er, scratched the surface of the problem.

How can I finish the job, as permanently as possible?

Two methofs have worked for me.

(i) slash, burn, and mow, and keep mowing.

(ii) use of glyphosate at between 10 and 100 times recommended strength
sprayed on to newly sprouting stuff.

This generally kills it stone dead, but don't mess around with
'recommended' strength.

And wera protective clothing and keep pets away and shwoer immediately
afterwards etc tec.



By the time we get in there, the new spring growth will be well under
way, so the first problem will be to clear the existing growth and try
to knock the main roots back. Gardening books and websites talk about
slicing around the roots of each plant - fine in a flower bed, but I
will need quicker and more drastic methods.

Glyphosate.

Obviously it will then be a life sentence of mowing, mowing, mowing to
keep the suckers down... but that's the way of it. We'll be sure to
leave a small area to reward ourselves with blackberry pies.

Not if you use glyphosate it won't. The whole are will be bramble free
(and everything else free too).

Just reseed with meadow mix or pasture mix or let nature take its course.

Any specific brand recommendations about genuinely thornproof gloves,
strong enough to let you grab a bramble sucker and haul on it?


Go to a builders merchants.

Another option is to hire a digger, and dig the *******s up.

Then use the blade to regrade.

Or rotovate.

Seripusly, don'y mess around. Use drastic tactics. Nazi style 'final
solutions' are required for proper 'ethnic cleansing'

If chemsitry bother you, use digger to buldoze to ground level, and a
ride on mower with (essentially disposable blade in year one) to mulch
anything left to silage, and then keep mowing - high setting is fine for
pasture - at least once every couple of months. Eventually the bastarads
give up, but they will always re-seed, which is why biannual mowing of
pasture is de rigeur. Thistles and brambles and hawthorn seeds come on
on the wind and in bird****.

On Sun, 9 Jan 2005 09:37:08 +0000, Ian White
wrote:

How can I finish the job, as permanently as possible?

Get a chap in. They're ready equipped with billhooks, gloves, chipper
and a pickup to drag the mess away afterwards. If you use the right
people (I can give you a recommendation for Bristol) then the cost
looks reasonable against the hire and disposal charges for DIY.


If you do DIY, then you need to be properly tooled up to do it. This
includes a real billhook (minimum 50 years old) - tenner from eBay
(search for "mrayre" as a seller) and ideally a long-handled slasher
too. Get a scythe stone too. If it's hawthorns rather than brambles, I
prefer my khukri (army issue) as it will cut a thicker branch than a
straight billhook.

Also useful if you're doing this in the green season is a paraffin
weed burner, to wilt the greenery a week before you attack the stems.
Glyphosate will do it too, but is nothing like so much fun.

For gloves, welding gauntlets are nice and long, but I usually wear
"Panda" brand cloth-backed rigger gloves for heavy stuff (dark brown
and yellow) as they're far more heavily made than the old pale green
chrome leather jobs. Shiny buckskin surfaced gloves look nice, but
they rip up on thorns in no time.

Once you have brambles down to stumps, dig them out. Good rootstocks
will make you a friend with any carver or woodturner. Glyphosate the
remnants.

I _wouldn't_ run a rotovator over it, at least not immediately.
Chopped rootstock on healthy plants can re-grow. You want it well
starved and dead before you chop it up. Hanging before quartering.

--
Smert' spamionam

"Ian White" wrote in message
...

I'm about to take over about a third of an acre of what's meant to be
wooded paddock, but is largely overrun at ground level by brambles. The
previous owner has managed to return some of it to grass, but has really
only, er, scratched the surface of the problem.

How can I finish the job, as permanently as possible?

Plough the whole field and start again, then weed out new growths and they
will usually give up after a season. This is also the best way to get back
to a grass paddock anyway.

"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...


I'm about to take over about a third of an acre of what's meant to be
wooded paddock, but is largely overrun at ground level by brambles. The
previous owner has managed to return some of it to grass, but has really
only, er, scratched the surface of the problem.


(ii) use of glyphosate at between 10 and 100 times recommended strength
sprayed on to newly sprouting stuff.

I really wouldn't suggest this if there's a watercourse anywhere nearby.
Also if you are in a rural area, all fields are being aerial surveyed every
year from now on for the CAP replacement scheme so if you were unlucky the
'scene of devastation' would be caught on camera.

On Sun, 09 Jan 2005 13:33:03 +0000, The Natural Philosopher
wrote:

(ii) use of glyphosate at between 10 and 100 times recommended strength
sprayed on to newly sprouting stuff.

You don't understand how glyphosate works do you ? Why increase the
strength so massively ?

"Mike" wrote in message
...

"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...


I'm about to take over about a third of an acre of what's meant to be
wooded paddock, but is largely overrun at ground level by brambles. The
previous owner has managed to return some of it to grass, but has
really
only, er, scratched the surface of the problem.


(ii) use of glyphosate at between 10 and 100 times recommended strength
sprayed on to newly sprouting stuff.

I really wouldn't suggest this if there's a watercourse anywhere nearby.
Also if you are in a rural area, all fields are being aerial surveyed
every
year from now on for the CAP replacement scheme so if you were unlucky the
'scene of devastation' would be caught on camera.



Use proprietary "Brushwood killer" which is basically 2-4-D herbicide and
will leave the (any) grass unharmed. Liable to be quite expensive though. Do
you feel like a lot of theraputic slashing and burning?

"Ian White" wrote in message


I'm about to take over about a third of an acre of what's meant to be
wooded paddock, but is largely overrun at ground level by brambles. The
previous owner has managed to return some of it to grass, but has really
only, er, scratched the surface of the problem.
How can I finish the job, as permanently as possible?

What is the paddock for?

With brambles near a wall or fence you just pull them out when they are
full of fruit. That way you don't get bunching with live and dead stems
making harvesting difficult. And you're left with tender new growth that
can be trained up the wall or along the fence.

Actually in the field mowing will eradicate them as it will with
nettles, thistles and docks -eventually.


--
Posted via Mailgate.ORG Server - http://www.Mailgate.ORG

Mike wrote:

"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...


I'm about to take over about a third of an acre of what's meant to be
wooded paddock, but is largely overrun at ground level by brambles. The
previous owner has managed to return some of it to grass, but has really
only, er, scratched the surface of the problem.


(ii) use of glyphosate at between 10 and 100 times recommended strength
sprayed on to newly sprouting stuff.


I really wouldn't suggest this if there's a watercourse anywhere nearby.
Also if you are in a rural area, all fields are being aerial surveyed every
year from now on for the CAP replacement scheme so if you were unlucky the
'scene of devastation' would be caught on camera.


Actually its not as devastating as you think. With a hand sprayer it
really is only the actual bush and what drips off underneath, and I am
pretty sure that glyphosate is relatively harmless almost as soon as it
hits the soil.

If you are fussy paint it on a few leaves, neat. That is the best of all.

Andy Dingley wrote:

On Sun, 09 Jan 2005 13:33:03 +0000, The Natural Philosopher
wrote:


(ii) use of glyphosate at between 10 and 100 times recommended strength
sprayed on to newly sprouting stuff.


You don't understand how glyphosate works do you ? Why increase the
strength so massively ?

Because experience shows that brambles sparyed with 'garden DIY'
strength just poke two fingers at you, brambles sprayed with x10 mostly
die back but the roots don't die, and brambles sprayed with greater
concentrations die back and don't sucker.

I have no idea how it works, but having used it for years now, I know
that heavier concentratins kill brushwwood better.

On grass and weeds its a different matter. They die at the merest touch.

"Michael Mcneil" wrote in message
news:588e0fae81f2e40924f3fb03519e5294.45219@mygate .mailgate.org

With brambles near a wall or fence you just pull them out when they are
full of fruit. That way you don't get bunching with live and dead stems
making harvesting difficult. And you're left with tender new growth that
can be trained up the wall or along the fence.

If you have a thicket of live and dead stuff load it with wads of
newspaper on the next dry day and burn all the dead stuff off. All the
live stuff will recoup for friuit at the end of summer. Any garden
gloves will be OK on live stems it is the sere stuff that is hard and
brittle. It is the brittle stuff that festers.


--
Posted via Mailgate.ORG Server - http://www.Mailgate.ORG

Michael Mcneil wrote:
"Ian White" wrote in message


I'm about to take over about a third of an acre of what's meant to be
wooded paddock, but is largely overrun at ground level by brambles. The
previous owner has managed to return some of it to grass, but has really
only, er, scratched the surface of the problem.
How can I finish the job, as permanently as possible?


First of all, thanks to everyone for the helpful answers so far.

What is the paddock for?

Big radio aerials, mostly, which will involve laying an extensive earth
mat, just below the surface. That is the immediate reason why I need the
brambles out. The nobler aim is to reclaim the area from recent neglect,
and return it to grass as the dominant ground cover.

BTW, it does have scattered trees, and already has some areas that have
been reclaimed to grass. For both of those reasons, full-scale ploughing
is not an option. Even rotavating the brambled areas would be a mistake,
because it would spread thousands of bits of living root (BTDT with
other weeds, and very much regretted it). After the roots are dead,
there will be no need to rotavate anyway - I'd only want to remove any
stumps that could get in the way of the mower.


--
Ian White
Abingdon, England

In article , Ian White
writes
Michael Mcneil wrote:
"Ian White" wrote in message


I'm about to take over about a third of an acre of what's meant to be
wooded paddock, but is largely overrun at ground level by brambles. The
previous owner has managed to return some of it to grass, but has really
only, er, scratched the surface of the problem.
How can I finish the job, as permanently as possible?


First of all, thanks to everyone for the helpful answers so far.

What is the paddock for?

Big radio aerials, mostly, which will involve laying an extensive earth
mat, just below the surface.


Coo!, What are U using that for a medium wave transmitter?...

--
Tony Sayer

Ian White wrote:

Michael Mcneil wrote:

"Ian White" wrote in message


I'm about to take over about a third of an acre of what's meant to be
wooded paddock, but is largely overrun at ground level by brambles. The
previous owner has managed to return some of it to grass, but has really
only, er, scratched the surface of the problem.
How can I finish the job, as permanently as possible?



First of all, thanks to everyone for the helpful answers so far.

What is the paddock for?

Big radio aerials, mostly, which will involve laying an extensive earth
mat, just below the surface. That is the immediate reason why I need the
brambles out. The nobler aim is to reclaim the area from recent neglect,
and return it to grass as the dominant ground cover.


Oh. Thn hire a mini digger, and simply scrape off the topsoil, pile it
in a corner together with any trashy brambles, lay your mat, and
re-ceover with topsoil.

If you simply then mow the result regularly, it will become fair lawn.

The digger will also make a fair stump remover for any bigger trash that
needs claering.


BTW, it does have scattered trees, and already has some areas that have
been reclaimed to grass. For both of those reasons, full-scale ploughing
is not an option. Even rotavating the brambled areas would be a mistake,
because it would spread thousands of bits of living root (BTDT with
other weeds, and very much regretted it). After the roots are dead,
there will be no need to rotavate anyway - I'd only want to remove any
stumps that could get in the way of the mower.

Brambles do not survive having roots decimated.

Other weeds will, but conatsnt mowing will finally eliminate all but the
ususal suspects - buttercups, danadelions, daisies and the like. These
can be knocked over with specific weedkillers if you can be bothered.

"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...

I'm about to take over about a third of an acre of what's meant to be
wooded paddock, but is largely overrun at ground level by brambles. The
previous owner has managed to return some of it to grass, but has
really
only, er, scratched the surface of the problem.


(ii) use of glyphosate at between 10 and 100 times recommended strength
sprayed on to newly sprouting stuff.


I really wouldn't suggest this if there's a watercourse anywhere nearby.
Also if you are in a rural area, all fields are being aerial surveyed
every
year from now on for the CAP replacement scheme so if you were unlucky
the
'scene of devastation' would be caught on camera.


Actually its not as devastating as you think. With a hand sprayer it
really is only the actual bush and what drips off underneath, and I am
pretty sure that glyphosate is relatively harmless almost as soon as it
hits the soil.

DEFRA lists it as a controlled substance. In view of the concentrations I
had images of you spraying the whole field in a back to ground zero approach
but I suppose applied carefully it's fine.

I'm about to take over about a third of an acre of what's meant to be
wooded paddock, but is largely overrun at ground level by brambles.
The
previous owner has managed to return some of it to grass, but has
really
only, er, scratched the surface of the problem.


(ii) use of glyphosate at between 10 and 100 times recommended strength
sprayed on to newly sprouting stuff.

I tried Glysophate but had no luck. (Admittedly, not in these dilutions.)
The solution I found was to fence the area with an electric fence and stick
a couple of borrowed pigs in the area. The ground was 'organically' cleared
and nicely turned-over within a month or so.

Colin

Mike wrote:

"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...

I'm about to take over about a third of an acre of what's meant to be
wooded paddock, but is largely overrun at ground level by brambles. The
previous owner has managed to return some of it to grass, but has

really

only, er, scratched the surface of the problem.


(ii) use of glyphosate at between 10 and 100 times recommended strength
sprayed on to newly sprouting stuff.


I really wouldn't suggest this if there's a watercourse anywhere nearby.
Also if you are in a rural area, all fields are being aerial surveyed

every

year from now on for the CAP replacement scheme so if you were unlucky

the

'scene of devastation' would be caught on camera.



Actually its not as devastating as you think. With a hand sprayer it
really is only the actual bush and what drips off underneath, and I am
pretty sure that glyphosate is relatively harmless almost as soon as it
hits the soil.


DEFRA lists it as a controlled substance. In view of the concentrations I
had images of you spraying the whole field in a back to ground zero approach
but I suppose applied carefully it's fine.


Good lord no!

The stuff acts by getting into teh plant. Brambles are big tough plants
with leathery leaves. They don't absorbe well. Hence high concentrations
on a few bits are better than an overall mist.

Ive actually done the rubber gloves/paintbrush/fulls strength painted
on/ bit on selected leaves. This is the only way to go when the buggers
are mixed up with wanted hedges etc. And beware of drips.

If its just a question of clearing an area of scrub - well a digger
equipped with a small bucket to hoick out the roots, plus a blade to
scrape the loose stuff off first, is an enjoyable days work.

Once the big lumps are removed, and the topsoil spread around, grass
comes very quickly.

Then its ride on mower in perpetuity...

Colin wrote:

I'm about to take over about a third of an acre of what's meant to be
wooded paddock, but is largely overrun at ground level by brambles.
The
previous owner has managed to return some of it to grass, but has

really

only, er, scratched the surface of the problem.


(ii) use of glyphosate at between 10 and 100 times recommended strength
sprayed on to newly sprouting stuff.


I tried Glysophate but had no luck. (Admittedly, not in these dilutions.)
The solution I found was to fence the area with an electric fence and stick
a couple of borrowed pigs in the area. The ground was 'organically' cleared
and nicely turned-over within a month or so.


That is interesting to hear too.

I always wondered how teh legenrdary pig lifetsyle would leave a plot...

In my case it was tyeh mathematics. The cost of fencing vastly exceeded
teh cost of a digger for a day or two. Even when the value of the
sausages was taken into account.

Ive done or garden in bits. But the hugely strong weedkiller cleared one
pattch so completely it simply naver has reappeared. That was INSIDE OF
a hedge. Couldn't get a mower there. (ditch)

Where its IN the hedge we recourse to painting it on, and cutting out
the stems once it goes manky and shrivelled. This works mostly, but any
drops on the hawthorn etc cause severe damage to that.

Regular mowing on the ride on takes care of any suckers and other
problems inside the garden. That is simply not a problem - just cut to
teh level that the ride on can cope with, and let the mulching blades do
teh rest.



Colin

In article , "Andy
Dingley" says...
On Mon, 10 Jan 2005 20:09:30 -0000, "Mike" wrote:

DEFRA lists it [glyphosate] as a controlled substance

Used to be, it's a lot more easily available these days (Roundup)

Dangerous stuff. There's a lot of surfactant in that bottle and if you
were to drink it, it's the _surfactant_ that's the dangerous part.
Unless you're a member of the vegetable kingdom (so IMM had better be
careful), then it's really pretty safe.

OTOH I saw a tub of labelled "paraquat antidote" last week - fuller's
earth ! If that's the best "antidote" they can offer, then you're
pretty screwed. It's a less reassuring treatment than even calcium
gluconate gel.


So in an emergency, if you did knock back a cup of paraquat, you
should get stuck into a nice bowl of kitty litter?

On Tue, 11 Jan 2005 12:38:15 -0000, Rob Morley
wrote:

So in an emergency, if you did knock back a cup of paraquat, you
should get stuck into a nice bowl of kitty litter?

It's a common treatment for many things. Should be ground though, not
clumped. Also some cat litter is a super-absorbent polymer which has
its own health risks if you swallow much of it.

My workshop spillage control is a sack of fuller's earth cat litter,
but I ball-milled it first to make it smaller. I buy the good stuff
for wood finishing though.

--
Smert' spamionam

Huge wrote:
Ian White writes:
Michael Mcneil wrote:
"Ian White" wrote in message


I'm about to take over about a third of an acre of what's meant to be
wooded paddock, but is largely overrun at ground level by brambles. The
previous owner has managed to return some of it to grass, but has really
only, er, scratched the surface of the problem.
How can I finish the job, as permanently as possible?


First of all, thanks to everyone for the helpful answers so far.

What is the paddock for?

Big radio aerials, mostly,

Aha! What's your callsign?

de G0CNR. (Very inactive)

See below.

What antennas actually go up will depend very much on my success with
the subject of this thread.

Thanks again for the ongoing discussion. I'm archiving the whole lot -
the pig, the kitty litter and all.


--
73 from Ian G3SEK
'In Practice' columnist for RadCom (RSGB)
...but a complete novice with brambles.

In article , "Andy
Dingley" says...
On Mon, 10 Jan 2005 20:09:30 -0000, "Mike" wrote:

DEFRA lists it [glyphosate] as a controlled substance

Used to be, it's a lot more easily available these days (Roundup)

Dangerous stuff. There's a lot of surfactant in that bottle and if you
were to drink it, it's the _surfactant_ that's the dangerous part.
Unless you're a member of the vegetable kingdom (so IMM had better be
careful), then it's really pretty safe.

OTOH I saw a tub of labelled "paraquat antidote" last week - fuller's
earth ! If that's the best "antidote" they can offer, then you're
pretty screwed. It's a less reassuring treatment than even calcium
gluconate gel.


So in an emergency, if you did knock back a cup of paraquat, you
should get stuck into a nice bowl of kitty litter?