Where do I buy this from.

Is it only mean't for hardwood

This has been specified on a property I am working on, at was to cover Cedar
V groved panneling. I have now been given the go ahead to use softwood
instead, don't know wether or not to ask to use ordinary paint as well!

X-No-Archive: Yes
Stuart wrote in message
...
Where do I buy this from.

Is it only mean't for hardwood

This has been specified on a property I am working on, at was to cover
Cedar
V groved panneling. I have now been given the go ahead to use softwood
instead, don't know wether or not to ask to use ordinary paint as well!

Don't use microporous crap, use 'proper' paint (unless it's not your own
property, then who cares.)

On Wed, 14 Apr 2004 21:11:21 +0100, "Stuart"
wrote:

Where do I buy this from.

Is it only mean't for hardwood

This has been specified on a property I am working on, at was to cover Cedar
V groved panneling. I have now been given the go ahead to use softwood
instead, don't know wether or not to ask to use ordinary paint as well!

Hi,

You might be better off using something like Sikkens or Sadolin, they
do microporous wood stain in a wide variety of colours, and have a
helpline too.

If you use softwood then a few generous coats of a suitable wood
preserver on all surfaces, particularly on end grain is a very good
idea. If you can coat the end grain of the panelling too, even better.

Cheap paint, microporous or not is often a bad idea.

cheers,
Pete.

This has been specified on a property I am working on, at was to
cover Cedar V groved panneling. I have now been given the go ahead to
use softwood instead, don't know wether or not to ask to use ordinary
paint as well!

Personally, I'm going to be doing my exterior woodwork in acrylic (water
based) paint. It is used almost exclusively in the US. Most importantly, in
five to ten years time when it is time to recoat, it is much easier to lay a
new layer of acrylic than sand/strip everything back, like you need to do
for solvent gloss. It is also better for the environment, less likely to
give you health problems and can be recoated in a fraction of the time.

Christian.

Pete C wrote:
On Wed, 14 Apr 2004 21:11:21 +0100, "Stuart"
wrote:


Where do I buy this from.

Is it only mean't for hardwood

This has been specified on a property I am working on, at was to cover Cedar
V groved panneling. I have now been given the go ahead to use softwood
instead, don't know wether or not to ask to use ordinary paint as well!


Hi,

You might be better off using something like Sikkens or Sadolin, they
do microporous wood stain in a wide variety of colours, and have a
helpline too.

If you use softwood then a few generous coats of a suitable wood
preserver on all surfaces, particularly on end grain is a very good
idea. If you can coat the end grain of the panelling too, even better.

Cheap paint, microporous or not is often a bad idea.

cheers,
Pete.

Sikkens also do microporous paint and it's good stuff. So it should be
at £60 for a 5l tin

http://www.decoratingdirect.co.uk/viewprod/s/SIKSAT/

Nick Brooks

"Christian McArdle" wrote in message
. net...
This has been specified on a property I am working on, at was to
cover Cedar V groved panneling. I have now been given the go ahead to
use softwood instead, don't know wether or not to ask to use ordinary
paint as well!

Personally, I'm going to be doing my exterior woodwork in acrylic (water
based) paint. It is used almost exclusively in the US. Most importantly,
in
five to ten years time when it is time to recoat, it is much easier to lay
a
new layer of acrylic than sand/strip everything back, like you need to do
for solvent gloss. It is also better for the environment, less likely to
give you health problems and can be recoated in a fraction of the time.

Christian.


As a point of interest I have always used Sikkens/Sadolin on all my external
joinery for years, but have always had problems with it failing on the south
side of my property after 2 or 3 years (goes hard and starts flaking)
despite on one occasion stripping back completely to bare wood and using the
full recommended application sequence.

About 6 years ago, against my better judgement and in desperation I tried
the Ronseal 5 year water based stain. Its very easy to apply and can be
thinned with water for the first coat, and of course cleaning up is very
easy. Even in its sixth year it is still looking good - even the sills and
other horizontals on the south side of my property. This year I shall be
able to redecorate with just a quick rubdown and apply 1 or 2 coats.

So despite all the virtue extolling of the traditional Sikkens/Sadolins,
here is one happy user of water based stain.

HTH

Dave

Nick Brooks wrote:
Pete C wrote:
"Stuart" wrote:
Where do I buy this from. Is it only mean't for hardwood
This has been specified on a property I am working on, at was
to cover Cedar V groved panneling. I have now been given the
go ahead to use softwood instead, don't know wether or not to
ask to use ordinary paint as well!

Is this an interior job? Microporous paint is normally used
outside, inside it's unlikely to be helpful. When you use
it, it must be applied as a "system", i.e. the primer, under-
and top-coat must be porous else the whole thing is a waste
of time (it's not *that* good anyway, IMO).


You might be better off using something like Sikkens or
Sadolin, they do microporous wood stain in a wide variety
of colours, and have a helpline too.

But a stain doesn't preserve, does it?


If you use softwood then a few generous coats of a suitable
wood preserver on all surfaces, particularly on end grain is
a very good idea. If you can coat the end grain of the
panelling too, even better.

Cheap paint, microporous or not is often a bad idea.

I very much agree with the latter statement!


Sikkens also do microporous paint and it's good stuff. So it
should be at =A360 for a 5l tin
=20
http://www.decoratingdirect.co.uk/viewprod/s/SIKSAT/

There are other places that can beat this price. It seems to me
that "decoratingdirect" are rather expensive.

If you are treating outside timber, then linseed oil is very
good, where appropriate, easily maintainable, and cheap.


J.B.

Christian McArdle wrote:
Personally, I'm going to be doing my exterior woodwork in acrylic
(water based) paint. It is used almost exclusively in the US.
Most importantly, in five to ten years time when it is time to
recoat, it is much easier to lay a new layer of acrylic than
sand/strip everything back, like you need to do for solvent
gloss.

Rubbish, of course you don't need to do that.


J.B.

Rubbish, of course you don't need to do that.

You need to get the horrible peeled up brittle glossy top coat off, which
isn't a nice job.

Christian.

Christian McArdle wrote:
Jerry Built wrote:
Christian McArdle wrote:
Personally, I'm going to be doing my exterior woodwork in
acrylic [ snip ] it is much easier to lay a new layer of
acrylic than sand/strip everything back, like you need to
do for solvent gloss.

Rubbish, of course you don't need to do that.

You need to get the horrible peeled up brittle glossy top coat
off, which isn't a nice job.

Oh dear Christian, you seem to have encountered a case of
poor preparation/practice in painting. This can happen
with water or "oil" paints. Nice to see the top coat
was still glossy, though! Normally maintenance means a
thorough wash down/clean, spot treatment, re-coat.


J.B.

You need to get the horrible peeled up brittle glossy top coat
off, which isn't a nice job.

Oh dear Christian, you seem to have encountered a case of
poor preparation/practice in painting.

Yes, I do like the punishment of buying ex-student terraces that haven't
been repainted in decades. At some point I really do need to renovate the
windows, which will be a complete removal, strip down, draughtproofing and
painting. I might still use a bit of solvent based paint on the window
sashes for its greater mechanical resistance where it slides, but I might
not.

Christian.

Christian McArdle wrote:
Yes, I do like the punishment of buying ex-student terraces that
haven't been repainted in decades. At some point I really do need
to renovate the windows, which will be a complete removal, strip
down, draughtproofing and painting.

Ah! sliding sashes?

I might still use a bit of solvent based paint on the window
sashes for its greater mechanical resistance where it slides,
but I might not.

Not sure it'll make a great difference...


J.B.

I might still use a bit of solvent based paint on the window
sashes for its greater mechanical resistance where it slides,
but I might not.

Not sure it'll make a great difference...

Then I definitely won't. I understand you're supposed to wax the actual
edges, rather than paint, though.

Christian.

Christian McArdle wrote:
[ About sliding sash windows and acrylic paint v. "oil" ]

I've done a few with acrylic, IME it doesn't like the sun or
traffic. It's quicker than proper gloss, yes, but harder to
use, and comparively un-glossy. OK for a quick in-and-out
job, but I would not use it "for me".


I understand you're supposed to wax the actual edges, rather
than paint, though.

I don't put anything on the sides. I don't know whether someone
called "Jacob" who posts here does, ISTR he's got a sash window
reconditioning bit on his web-site. Worth a look maybe, as are
the bods at Mighton Products.


J.B.

ISTR he's got a sash window reconditioning bit on his web-site.
Worth a look maybe, as are the bods at Mighton Products.

Yes, I've got a Mighton catalogue. Just a few questions, as you seem to know
something about it.

Firstly, can brush seal be used for the vertical sealing as well as the
horizontal? They aren't very clear about it.

Secondly, how do you cut the 2mm strip in the non-beaded side of the frame?
Do you have to remove the frame panel?

I'll see if I can find Jacob's website...

Christian.

Christian McArdle wrote:
Jerry Built writes:
ISTR he's got a sash window reconditioning bit on his web-site.
Worth a look maybe, as are the bods at Mighton Products.

[ snip ] can brush seal be used for the vertical sealing as well
as the horizontal? They aren't very clear about it.

There're some instructions on their web-site which show use
quite well - http://www.mighton.co.uk/Static%20Pages/weather.htm
(near the bottom of the page). You could use them, but they
really need accurate location with no "slop" which makes them
wear them quickly. The best bet is to use their parting bead,
and "standard" seal on the top rail, forget about using seal
on the staff beads - if you think about it, it doesn't help
very much! I don't like fitting seals at the meeting or
bottom rails, these normally fit well anyway, and do let
pooled condensation drip out. If you're using DG, then OK.


Secondly, how do you cut the 2mm strip in the non-beaded
side of the frame? Do you have to remove the frame panel?

Frame panel? Umm... Do you mean the inside of the outside
board that makes up the sash box frame? If I were you, I
wouldn't, the plastic parting bead does a fine job.

I'll see if I can find Jacob's website...

ISTR he included the URL in a fairly recent post.


J.B.

On Thu, 15 Apr 2004 11:30:05 +0100, "Dave Gibson" wrote:

As a point of interest I have always used Sikkens/Sadolin on all my external
joinery for years, but have always had problems with it failing on the south
side of my property after 2 or 3 years (goes hard and starts flaking)
despite on one occasion stripping back completely to bare wood and using the
full recommended application sequence.

Hi,

Can you remember which particular types these were, also what type of
wood were you using them on?

cheers,
Pete.

"Pete C" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 15 Apr 2004 11:30:05 +0100, "Dave Gibson" wrote:

As a point of interest I have always used Sikkens/Sadolin on all my
external
joinery for years, but have always had problems with it failing on the
south
side of my property after 2 or 3 years (goes hard and starts flaking)
despite on one occasion stripping back completely to bare wood and using
the
full recommended application sequence.

Hi,

Can you remember which particular types these were, also what type of
wood were you using them on?

cheers,
Pete.

Yep, I remember it well. My window frames are standard Boulton and Paul
pressure treated softwood. The last time I stripped all the woodwork back to
raw using a scraper and sander I used 2 coats of Sikkens Cetol HLS (Teak)
followed by 2 coats of Sikkens Cetol Filter 7 (Teak). As I said, the coating
started flaking off on the horizontals after 3 years on the south side of
the house. I then rubbed it down and applied 2 coats of Ronseal 5 year
Woodstain and its still in good nick after 6 years, although I will be
applying a maintenance coat this year.

Needless to say I shall never use Sikkens again, I think its overpriced (
although the Ronseal product is not *that* much cheaper ) and overhyped

HTH

Dave

On Sat, 17 Apr 2004 12:29:11 +0100, "Dave Gibson" wrote:

Yep, I remember it well. My window frames are standard Boulton and Paul
pressure treated softwood. The last time I stripped all the woodwork back to
raw using a scraper and sander I used 2 coats of Sikkens Cetol HLS (Teak)
followed by 2 coats of Sikkens Cetol Filter 7 (Teak). As I said, the coating
started flaking off on the horizontals after 3 years on the south side of
the house. I then rubbed it down and applied 2 coats of Ronseal 5 year
Woodstain and its still in good nick after 6 years, although I will be
applying a maintenance coat this year.

Needless to say I shall never use Sikkens again, I think its overpriced (
although the Ronseal product is not *that* much cheaper ) and overhyped

Sorry to hear that, I guess I will prefer Sadolin in future. Cetol
does have a good reputation for UV resistance though. I always though
Sikkens were the same company that made Sikaflex, but it looks like
they aren't.

cheers,
Pete

HTH

Dave