Where do I buy this from.

Is it only mean't for hardwood

This has been specified on a property I am working on, at was to cover Cedar
V groved panneling. I have now been given the go ahead to use softwood
instead, don't know wether or not to ask to use ordinary paint as well!

X-No-Archive: Yes
Stuart wrote in message
...
Where do I buy this from.

Is it only mean't for hardwood

This has been specified on a property I am working on, at was to cover
Cedar
V groved panneling. I have now been given the go ahead to use softwood
instead, don't know wether or not to ask to use ordinary paint as well!

Don't use microporous crap, use 'proper' paint (unless it's not your own
property, then who cares.)

On Wed, 14 Apr 2004 21:11:21 +0100, "Stuart"
wrote:

Where do I buy this from.

Is it only mean't for hardwood

This has been specified on a property I am working on, at was to cover Cedar
V groved panneling. I have now been given the go ahead to use softwood
instead, don't know wether or not to ask to use ordinary paint as well!

Hi,

You might be better off using something like Sikkens or Sadolin, they
do microporous wood stain in a wide variety of colours, and have a
helpline too.

If you use softwood then a few generous coats of a suitable wood
preserver on all surfaces, particularly on end grain is a very good
idea. If you can coat the end grain of the panelling too, even better.

Cheap paint, microporous or not is often a bad idea.

cheers,
Pete.

Pete C wrote:
On Wed, 14 Apr 2004 21:11:21 +0100, "Stuart"
wrote:


Where do I buy this from.

Is it only mean't for hardwood

This has been specified on a property I am working on, at was to cover Cedar
V groved panneling. I have now been given the go ahead to use softwood
instead, don't know wether or not to ask to use ordinary paint as well!


Hi,

You might be better off using something like Sikkens or Sadolin, they
do microporous wood stain in a wide variety of colours, and have a
helpline too.

If you use softwood then a few generous coats of a suitable wood
preserver on all surfaces, particularly on end grain is a very good
idea. If you can coat the end grain of the panelling too, even better.

Cheap paint, microporous or not is often a bad idea.

cheers,
Pete.

Sikkens also do microporous paint and it's good stuff. So it should be
at £60 for a 5l tin

http://www.decoratingdirect.co.uk/viewprod/s/SIKSAT/

Nick Brooks

This has been specified on a property I am working on, at was to
cover Cedar V groved panneling. I have now been given the go ahead to
use softwood instead, don't know wether or not to ask to use ordinary
paint as well!

Personally, I'm going to be doing my exterior woodwork in acrylic (water
based) paint. It is used almost exclusively in the US. Most importantly, in
five to ten years time when it is time to recoat, it is much easier to lay a
new layer of acrylic than sand/strip everything back, like you need to do
for solvent gloss. It is also better for the environment, less likely to
give you health problems and can be recoated in a fraction of the time.

Christian.

"Christian McArdle" wrote in message
. net...
This has been specified on a property I am working on, at was to
cover Cedar V groved panneling. I have now been given the go ahead to
use softwood instead, don't know wether or not to ask to use ordinary
paint as well!

Personally, I'm going to be doing my exterior woodwork in acrylic (water
based) paint. It is used almost exclusively in the US. Most importantly,
in
five to ten years time when it is time to recoat, it is much easier to lay
a
new layer of acrylic than sand/strip everything back, like you need to do
for solvent gloss. It is also better for the environment, less likely to
give you health problems and can be recoated in a fraction of the time.

Christian.


As a point of interest I have always used Sikkens/Sadolin on all my external
joinery for years, but have always had problems with it failing on the south
side of my property after 2 or 3 years (goes hard and starts flaking)
despite on one occasion stripping back completely to bare wood and using the
full recommended application sequence.

About 6 years ago, against my better judgement and in desperation I tried
the Ronseal 5 year water based stain. Its very easy to apply and can be
thinned with water for the first coat, and of course cleaning up is very
easy. Even in its sixth year it is still looking good - even the sills and
other horizontals on the south side of my property. This year I shall be
able to redecorate with just a quick rubdown and apply 1 or 2 coats.

So despite all the virtue extolling of the traditional Sikkens/Sadolins,
here is one happy user of water based stain.

HTH

Dave

Nick Brooks wrote:
Pete C wrote:
"Stuart" wrote:
Where do I buy this from. Is it only mean't for hardwood
This has been specified on a property I am working on, at was
to cover Cedar V groved panneling. I have now been given the
go ahead to use softwood instead, don't know wether or not to
ask to use ordinary paint as well!

Is this an interior job? Microporous paint is normally used
outside, inside it's unlikely to be helpful. When you use
it, it must be applied as a "system", i.e. the primer, under-
and top-coat must be porous else the whole thing is a waste
of time (it's not *that* good anyway, IMO).


You might be better off using something like Sikkens or
Sadolin, they do microporous wood stain in a wide variety
of colours, and have a helpline too.

But a stain doesn't preserve, does it?


If you use softwood then a few generous coats of a suitable
wood preserver on all surfaces, particularly on end grain is
a very good idea. If you can coat the end grain of the
panelling too, even better.

Cheap paint, microporous or not is often a bad idea.

I very much agree with the latter statement!


Sikkens also do microporous paint and it's good stuff. So it
should be at =A360 for a 5l tin
=20
http://www.decoratingdirect.co.uk/viewprod/s/SIKSAT/

There are other places that can beat this price. It seems to me
that "decoratingdirect" are rather expensive.

If you are treating outside timber, then linseed oil is very
good, where appropriate, easily maintainable, and cheap.


J.B.

Christian McArdle wrote:
Personally, I'm going to be doing my exterior woodwork in acrylic
(water based) paint. It is used almost exclusively in the US.
Most importantly, in five to ten years time when it is time to
recoat, it is much easier to lay a new layer of acrylic than
sand/strip everything back, like you need to do for solvent
gloss.

Rubbish, of course you don't need to do that.


J.B.

Rubbish, of course you don't need to do that.

You need to get the horrible peeled up brittle glossy top coat off, which
isn't a nice job.

Christian.

On Thu, 15 Apr 2004 11:30:05 +0100, "Dave Gibson" wrote:

As a point of interest I have always used Sikkens/Sadolin on all my external
joinery for years, but have always had problems with it failing on the south
side of my property after 2 or 3 years (goes hard and starts flaking)
despite on one occasion stripping back completely to bare wood and using the
full recommended application sequence.

Hi,

Can you remember which particular types these were, also what type of
wood were you using them on?

cheers,
Pete.

"Pete C" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 15 Apr 2004 11:30:05 +0100, "Dave Gibson" wrote:

As a point of interest I have always used Sikkens/Sadolin on all my
external
joinery for years, but have always had problems with it failing on the
south
side of my property after 2 or 3 years (goes hard and starts flaking)
despite on one occasion stripping back completely to bare wood and using
the
full recommended application sequence.

Hi,

Can you remember which particular types these were, also what type of
wood were you using them on?

cheers,
Pete.

Yep, I remember it well. My window frames are standard Boulton and Paul
pressure treated softwood. The last time I stripped all the woodwork back to
raw using a scraper and sander I used 2 coats of Sikkens Cetol HLS (Teak)
followed by 2 coats of Sikkens Cetol Filter 7 (Teak). As I said, the coating
started flaking off on the horizontals after 3 years on the south side of
the house. I then rubbed it down and applied 2 coats of Ronseal 5 year
Woodstain and its still in good nick after 6 years, although I will be
applying a maintenance coat this year.

Needless to say I shall never use Sikkens again, I think its overpriced (
although the Ronseal product is not *that* much cheaper ) and overhyped

HTH

Dave

On Sat, 17 Apr 2004 12:29:11 +0100, "Dave Gibson" wrote:

Yep, I remember it well. My window frames are standard Boulton and Paul
pressure treated softwood. The last time I stripped all the woodwork back to
raw using a scraper and sander I used 2 coats of Sikkens Cetol HLS (Teak)
followed by 2 coats of Sikkens Cetol Filter 7 (Teak). As I said, the coating
started flaking off on the horizontals after 3 years on the south side of
the house. I then rubbed it down and applied 2 coats of Ronseal 5 year
Woodstain and its still in good nick after 6 years, although I will be
applying a maintenance coat this year.

Needless to say I shall never use Sikkens again, I think its overpriced (
although the Ronseal product is not *that* much cheaper ) and overhyped

Sorry to hear that, I guess I will prefer Sadolin in future. Cetol
does have a good reputation for UV resistance though. I always though
Sikkens were the same company that made Sikaflex, but it looks like
they aren't.

cheers,
Pete

HTH

Dave