Hi everyone!

I have a Danfoss Controller (FP715) connected to a Honeywell 3 way
valve via the Danfoss wiring box.

I installed it a while back, but it is only now the days have become
warmer that I had spotted a problem.

If I, via the programmer, turn the central heating on, the rads get
hot.

If I turn the CH and hot water on, the rads get hot and the water is
heated.

Now that the warmer days are here, I only wanted the hot water heater,
with no central heating. Unfortunately both the hot water and
central heating are switched on!

This isn't really what I wanted to happen!

I have read, and re-read, the FAQ on 3 port valves, and can only
assume that I have wired it incorreclty.

Can anyone else who has a honeywell 3 port valve please confirm what
colour cable I should have where?

I have my hot feed to AB, my CH is port A, the HW is port B (is the
OK)? (As I am writing this, I think the ports should be the other way
round?)

The connections for the wiring box a

Green Earth
Blue Neutral
White CH Call for heat
Grey HW off
Orange HW on (via the cyl sat)

Does this sound correct?

From the FAQ (which makes me think I have the valve the wrong way
round).

Green/Yellow Safety Earth
Brown Not used.
Orange Go fully to 'B' when live.
Grey Live when at 'AB' or 'B'
White Go to 'AB' or 'B'.


If I have the valve the wrong way round, can I just swap the Grey and
white connections over?

Many thanks for your help, and apologies for my ramblings!


Matthew

On Sun, 11 Apr 2004 10:35:27 GMT, in uk.d-i-y
(Matthew Humphreys) strung together this:

I have my hot feed to AB, my CH is port A, the HW is port B (is the
OK)? (As I am writing this, I think the ports should be the other way
round?)

Nope, thats fine.

The connections for the wiring box a

Green Earth
Blue Neutral
White CH Call for heat
Grey HW off
Orange HW on (via the cyl sat)

Does this sound correct?

Yes.

From the FAQ (which makes me think I have the valve the wrong way
round).

Green/Yellow Safety Earth
Brown Not used.
Orange Go fully to 'B' when live.
Grey Live when at 'AB' or 'B'
White Go to 'AB' or 'B'.


If I have the valve the wrong way round, can I just swap the Grey and
white connections over?

No. I think your wiring fault is elsewhere in the system, assuming it
isn't a faulty component somewhere.
You might want to read these.
http://tinyurl.com/2dr9m
http://tinyurl.com/26hzu
Check the system through, with a test meter, for the correct voltages
at the right places.
--

SJW
A.C.S. Ltd.

On Sun, 11 Apr 2004 11:00:13 GMT, (Lurch)
wrote:


I have my hot feed to AB, my CH is port A, the HW is port B (is the
OK)? (As I am writing this, I think the ports should be the other way
round?)

Nope, thats fine.

The connections for the wiring box a

Green Earth
Blue Neutral
White CH Call for heat
Grey HW off
Orange HW on (via the cyl sat)

Does this sound correct?

Yes.

No. I think your wiring fault is elsewhere in the system, assuming it
isn't a faulty component somewhere.
You might want to read these.
http://tinyurl.com/2dr9m
http://tinyurl.com/26hzu
Check the system through, with a test meter, for the correct voltages
at the right places.

Many thanks for that SJW.

Thanks for the links.

Looks like the plumbing is correct, perhaps I have a wiring fault
elsewhere.

Any ideas where to start?

If I call for heating only, the CH side of the pipework get hot.
If I call for both, both sets of pipework gets hot - if I lower the
seting on the tank stat the HW side of the pipework cools down.
If I call for HW only, both sides get hot, and adjusting the stat
switches the pump off so both sides cool down!

Does this help?

Thanks again,


Matthew

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Matthew Humphreys wrote:

Hi everyone!

I have a Danfoss Controller (FP715) connected to a Honeywell 3 way
valve via the Danfoss wiring box.

I installed it a while back, but it is only now the days have become
warmer that I had spotted a problem.

If I, via the programmer, turn the central heating on, the rads get
hot.

If I turn the CH and hot water on, the rads get hot and the water is
heated.

Now that the warmer days are here, I only wanted the hot water heater,
with no central heating. Unfortunately both the hot water and
central heating are switched on!

This isn't really what I wanted to happen!

I have read, and re-read, the FAQ on 3 port valves, and can only
assume that I have wired it incorreclty.

Can anyone else who has a honeywell 3 port valve please confirm what
colour cable I should have where?

I have my hot feed to AB, my CH is port A, the HW is port B (is the
OK)? (As I am writing this, I think the ports should be the other way
round?)

The connections for the wiring box a

Green Earth
Blue Neutral
White CH Call for heat
Grey HW off
Orange HW on (via the cyl sat)

Does this sound correct?

From the FAQ (which makes me think I have the valve the wrong way
round).

Green/Yellow Safety Earth
Brown Not used.
Orange Go fully to 'B' when live.
Grey Live when at 'AB' or 'B'
White Go to 'AB' or 'B'.


If I have the valve the wrong way round, can I just swap the Grey and
white connections over?

Many thanks for your help, and apologies for my ramblings!


Matthew

Make sure that the layout and wiring is as per the Y-plan details given in
http://content.honeywell.com/uk/homes/systems.htm

I think A is ok for heating and B for hot water - check the Honeywell
references which someone else has given.

If you *do* get them the wrong way round, you can't easily correct it with a
simple wiring change. This is because - when installed correctly - the hot
water wiring requires an ON *and* OFF signal from the programmer, and
requires the cylinder stat to have change-over (as opposed to just on/off)
contacts. If you swap this round, the heating would need a "not required"
signal from the programmer, and the room stat would have to be the
change-over sort. It also means that the valve actuator would be consuming
power rather than sitting at its home position throughout the summer when
only hot water is required.

Under these circumstances, it is far better to turn the valve round - even
though it means partially draining the system.
--
Cheers,
Set Square
______
Please reply to newsgroup. Reply address is Black Hole!

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Matthew Humphreys wrote:

On Sun, 11 Apr 2004 11:00:13 GMT, (Lurch)
wrote:


I have my hot feed to AB, my CH is port A, the HW is port B (is
the OK)? (As I am writing this, I think the ports should be the
other way round?)

Nope, thats fine.

The connections for the wiring box a

Green Earth
Blue Neutral
White CH Call for heat
Grey HW off
Orange HW on (via the cyl sat)

Does this sound correct?

Yes.

No. I think your wiring fault is elsewhere in the system, assuming it
isn't a faulty component somewhere.
You might want to read these.
http://tinyurl.com/2dr9m
http://tinyurl.com/26hzu
Check the system through, with a test meter, for the correct voltages
at the right places.

Many thanks for that SJW.

Thanks for the links.

Looks like the plumbing is correct, perhaps I have a wiring fault
elsewhere.

Any ideas where to start?

If I call for heating only, the CH side of the pipework get hot.
If I call for both, both sets of pipework gets hot - if I lower the
seting on the tank stat the HW side of the pipework cools down.
If I call for HW only, both sides get hot, and adjusting the stat
switches the pump off so both sides cool down!

Does this help?

Thanks again,


Matthew

Check the wiring in your junction box. When hot water only is switched on,
pins 1 and 6 in the junction box should be live. When you turn the cylinder
stat up to a high temperature, pin 8 should be live (and pin 7 not live).
When you turn the cylstat down to a low temperature, pin 8 should cease to
be live and pin 7 should become live instead.

The boiler and pump (or just the boiler if the pump is connected via an
over-run stat on the boiler) should be connected to pin 8 - so the boiler
should fire when the cylstat is turned up.

Check these things, and let us know the score.
--
Cheers,
Set Square
______
Please reply to newsgroup. Reply address is Black Hole!

On Sun, 11 Apr 2004 14:54:13 +0100, "Set Square"
wrote:


Matthew

Check the wiring in your junction box. When hot water only is switched on,
pins 1 and 6 in the junction box should be live. When you turn the cylinder
stat up to a high temperature, pin 8 should be live (and pin 7 not live).
When you turn the cylstat down to a low temperature, pin 8 should cease to
be live and pin 7 should become live instead.

The boiler and pump (or just the boiler if the pump is connected via an
over-run stat on the boiler) should be connected to pin 8 - so the boiler
should fire when the cylstat is turned up.

Check these things, and let us know the score.
--
Cheers,
Set Square
______
Please reply to newsgroup. Reply address is Black Hole!




Thanks for the help - not bad support for an Easter Sunday!
OK,

If I ask for HW only, pins 6,7,8 and 9 of the Danfoss wiring box are
live! This doesn't sound right!

If I drop the stat temp, then 8 and 9 go off.

The boiler is on pin 9, which in turn is linked to pin 8 (as per the
installation sheet) - which seems OK.

Pin 7 is the "HW off" from the stat, I think

Hope this is starting to make sense to someone!

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Matthew Humphreys wrote:

On Sun, 11 Apr 2004 14:54:13 +0100, "Set Square"
wrote:


Matthew

Check the wiring in your junction box. When hot water only is
switched on, pins 1 and 6 in the junction box should be live. When
you turn the cylinder stat up to a high temperature, pin 8 should be
live (and pin 7 not live). When you turn the cylstat down to a low
temperature, pin 8 should cease to be live and pin 7 should become
live instead.

The boiler and pump (or just the boiler if the pump is connected via
an over-run stat on the boiler) should be connected to pin 8 - so
the boiler should fire when the cylstat is turned up.

Check these things, and let us know the score.
--
Cheers,
Set Square
______
Please reply to newsgroup. Reply address is Black Hole!




Thanks for the help - not bad support for an Easter Sunday!
OK,

If I ask for HW only, pins 6,7,8 and 9 of the Danfoss wiring box are
live! This doesn't sound right!

If I drop the stat temp, then 8 and 9 go off.

The boiler is on pin 9, which in turn is linked to pin 8 (as per the
installation sheet) - which seems OK.

Pin 7 is the "HW off" from the stat, I think

Hope this is starting to make sense to someone!

I was referring to the pin (connection) numbers in the 10-way junction box
shown under Y-plan in http://content.honeywell.com/uk/homes/systems.htm

It sounds like you have a different wiring scheme if the boiler is on 9! Do
you have a reference to a diagram which covers your setup? [On the Honeywell
diagram shown in my reference, 9 and 10 are not used!]

That aside, if - as you say - 8 and 9 are live when calling for HW only, and
the boiler is on 9, I'm at a loss to know why the boiler isn't coming on and
heating the water.

--
Cheers,
Set Square
______
Please reply to newsgroup. Reply address is Black Hole!

On Sun, 11 Apr 2004 15:56:17 GMT, in uk.d-i-y
(Matthew Humphreys) strung together this:

Check the wiring in your junction box. When hot water only is switched on,
pins 1 and 6 in the junction box should be live. When you turn the cylinder
stat up to a high temperature, pin 8 should be live (and pin 7 not live).
When you turn the cylstat down to a low temperature, pin 8 should cease to
be live and pin 7 should become live instead.

The boiler and pump (or just the boiler if the pump is connected via an
over-run stat on the boiler) should be connected to pin 8 - so the boiler
should fire when the cylstat is turned up.

Check these things, and let us know the score.

Thanks for the help - not bad support for an Easter Sunday!
OK,

If I ask for HW only, pins 6,7,8 and 9 of the Danfoss wiring box are
live! This doesn't sound right!

I think from what you say pins 8+9 are the boiler and pump.

If I drop the stat temp, then 8 and 9 go off.

That sounds right.

The boiler is on pin 9, which in turn is linked to pin 8 (as per the
installation sheet) - which seems OK.

Pin 7 is the "HW off" from the stat, I think

Hope this is starting to make sense to someone!

I think this might help. http://tinyurl.com/3fyca I'm assuming the
wiring you have is as this diagram is, if it's different then what I
said could be totally wrong.
If I were you I would check the wiring at the clock, stat etc and
ensure it is all right.
--

SJW
A.C.S. Ltd.

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Set Square wrote:

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Matthew Humphreys wrote:

On Sun, 11 Apr 2004 14:54:13 +0100, "Set Square"
wrote:


Matthew

Check the wiring in your junction box. When hot water only is
switched on, pins 1 and 6 in the junction box should be live. When
you turn the cylinder stat up to a high temperature, pin 8 should be
live (and pin 7 not live). When you turn the cylstat down to a low
temperature, pin 8 should cease to be live and pin 7 should become
live instead.

The boiler and pump (or just the boiler if the pump is connected via
an over-run stat on the boiler) should be connected to pin 8 - so
the boiler should fire when the cylstat is turned up.

Check these things, and let us know the score.
--
Cheers,
Set Square
______
Please reply to newsgroup. Reply address is Black Hole!




Thanks for the help - not bad support for an Easter Sunday!
OK,

If I ask for HW only, pins 6,7,8 and 9 of the Danfoss wiring box are
live! This doesn't sound right!

If I drop the stat temp, then 8 and 9 go off.

The boiler is on pin 9, which in turn is linked to pin 8 (as per the
installation sheet) - which seems OK.

Pin 7 is the "HW off" from the stat, I think

Hope this is starting to make sense to someone!

I was referring to the pin (connection) numbers in the 10-way
junction box shown under Y-plan in
http://content.honeywell.com/uk/homes/systems.htm

It sounds like you have a different wiring scheme if the boiler is on
9! Do you have a reference to a diagram which covers your setup? [On
the Honeywell diagram shown in my reference, 9 and 10 are not used!]

That aside, if - as you say - 8 and 9 are live when calling for HW
only, and the boiler is on 9, I'm at a loss to know why the boiler
isn't coming on and heating the water.

If your wiring scheme is like the Danfos diagram referenced by Lurch - with
a 12-way junction box - then the following should apply:

With HW only selected, Pin 3 of the programmer should be live and this
should be connected to Pin 6 in the juction box, which should also be live.
When the cylstat is turned to high, pins 8/9/10 of the junction box should
be live and pin 7 should not be live. When the stat is turned down, 8/9/10
should no longer be live, but 7 should now be live. When 8/9/10 are live,
the boiler and pump should operate.

Does this make sense? If this matches your setup, please let us know what
*really* happens.

--
Cheers,
Set Square
______
Please reply to newsgroup. Reply address is Black Hole!

On Sun, 11 Apr 2004 17:00:03 GMT, (Lurch)
wrote:

On Sun, 11 Apr 2004 15:56:17 GMT, in uk.d-i-y
(Matthew Humphreys) strung together this:

Check the wiring in your junction box. When hot water only is switched on,
pins 1 and 6 in the junction box should be live. When you turn the cylinder
stat up to a high temperature, pin 8 should be live (and pin 7 not live).
When you turn the cylstat down to a low temperature, pin 8 should cease to
be live and pin 7 should become live instead.

The boiler and pump (or just the boiler if the pump is connected via an
over-run stat on the boiler) should be connected to pin 8 - so the boiler
should fire when the cylstat is turned up.

Check these things, and let us know the score.

Thanks for the help - not bad support for an Easter Sunday!
OK,

If I ask for HW only, pins 6,7,8 and 9 of the Danfoss wiring box are
live! This doesn't sound right!

I think from what you say pins 8+9 are the boiler and pump.

If I drop the stat temp, then 8 and 9 go off.

That sounds right.

The boiler is on pin 9, which in turn is linked to pin 8 (as per the
installation sheet) - which seems OK.

Pin 7 is the "HW off" from the stat, I think

Hope this is starting to make sense to someone!

I think this might help. http://tinyurl.com/3fyca I'm assuming the
wiring you have is as this diagram is, if it's different then what I
said could be totally wrong.
If I were you I would check the wiring at the clock, stat etc and
ensure it is all right.
--

SJW
A.C.S. Ltd.


Thats the controller / wiring box I have. - I was about to post the
same link!

It appears that the connection I have to pin 7 is permantly live. I
will check it out in the morning to see if I have wired the tank stat
incorrectly.

Can someone remind me the function of the connections on the tank
stat?

Cheers,


Matthew

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Matthew Humphreys wrote:



Thats the controller / wiring box I have. - I was about to post the
same link!

It appears that the connection I have to pin 7 is permantly live. I
will check it out in the morning to see if I have wired the tank stat
incorrectly.

Can someone remind me the function of the connections on the tank
stat?

Cheers,


Matthew

The cylinder thermostat is in the form of a change-over switch. Pin 1 is the
"common" connection and is fed from Pin 6 in the junction box which in turn
is fed from the "Hot water required" contact in the programmer. When the
temperature of the water in the cylinder is lower than the temperature set
on the stat, Pins 1 and 2 are connected - so that Pin 2 provides a live feed
to Pin 8 in the junction box (and hence to the boiler and pump).

When the water gets up to the set temperature, the thermostat switch changes
over - such that Pins 1 and 3 are now connected. Pin 3 provides a live feed
to Pin 7 on the junction box, and onwards to the mid-position valve
actuator. This is the "hot water demand satisfied" signal and is used (via
the microswitches in the mid-position valve actuator) to switch on the
boiler and pump in cases where central heating is required but hot water is
not.

HTH.
--
Cheers,
Set Square
______
Please reply to newsgroup. Reply address is Black Hole!

On Mon, 12 Apr 2004 00:21:52 GMT, (Matthew Humphreys)
wrote:

On Sun, 11 Apr 2004 17:00:03 GMT, (Lurch)
wrote:

On Sun, 11 Apr 2004 15:56:17 GMT, in uk.d-i-y
(Matthew Humphreys) strung together this:

Check the wiring in your junction box. When hot water only is switched on,
pins 1 and 6 in the junction box should be live. When you turn the cylinder
stat up to a high temperature, pin 8 should be live (and pin 7 not live).
When you turn the cylstat down to a low temperature, pin 8 should cease to
be live and pin 7 should become live instead.

The boiler and pump (or just the boiler if the pump is connected via an
over-run stat on the boiler) should be connected to pin 8 - so the boiler
should fire when the cylstat is turned up.

Check these things, and let us know the score.

Thanks for the help - not bad support for an Easter Sunday!
OK,

If I ask for HW only, pins 6,7,8 and 9 of the Danfoss wiring box are
live! This doesn't sound right!

I think from what you say pins 8+9 are the boiler and pump.

If I drop the stat temp, then 8 and 9 go off.

That sounds right.

The boiler is on pin 9, which in turn is linked to pin 8 (as per the
installation sheet) - which seems OK.

Pin 7 is the "HW off" from the stat, I think

Hope this is starting to make sense to someone!

I think this might help. http://tinyurl.com/3fyca I'm assuming the
wiring you have is as this diagram is, if it's different then what I
said could be totally wrong.
If I were you I would check the wiring at the clock, stat etc and
ensure it is all right.
--

SJW
A.C.S. Ltd.


Thats the controller / wiring box I have. - I was about to post the
same link!

It appears that the connection I have to pin 7 is permantly live. I
will check it out in the morning to see if I have wired the tank stat
incorrectly.

Can someone remind me the function of the connections on the tank
stat?

Cheers,


Matthew



Of checked the wiring to the cyl stat and there was a problem! I have
now fixed it.

Pin 7 is now only live when when it the tank is hot


(Note - a 240v test screwdriver glows slightly (on pin 7) when the
tank is cool and then brightly when the tank is hot - is this a
function of the valve?)

Which of the connections to the valve should be live for just the hw
to be heated?

Cheers,


Matthew

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Matthew Humphreys wrote:


Which of the connections to the valve should be live for just the hw
to be heated?


Essentially none - but the wire which is connected to Pin 8 in the junction
box will be live because Pin 8 is powered from elsewhere. Some of the others
may glow dimly on your screwdriver because they're connected via the motor
windings etc.

The valve is least active in the Hot Water only position. It sits at its
"home" (spring return) position, where it directs water only to the heating
coil in the hot water cylinder. In this position, the actuator plays no part
in switching the boiler and pump - they are switched by the cylinder stat.
--
Cheers,
Set Square
______
Please reply to newsgroup. Reply address is Black Hole!

On Mon, 12 Apr 2004 09:22:26 GMT, Matthew Humphreys wrote:

(Note - a 240v test screwdriver glows slightly (on pin 7) when the
tank is cool and then brightly when the tank is hot - is this a
function of the valve?)

No, a function of your test instrument. Google this group on neon
screwdriver for plenty of previous discussion...

--
Cheers
Dave. pam is missing e-mail

On Mon, 12 Apr 2004 11:51:09 +0100 (BST), "Dave Liquorice"
wrote:

On Mon, 12 Apr 2004 09:22:26 GMT, Matthew Humphreys wrote:

(Note - a 240v test screwdriver glows slightly (on pin 7) when the
tank is cool and then brightly when the tank is hot - is this a
function of the valve?)

No, a function of your test instrument. Google this group on neon
screwdriver for plenty of previous discussion...

--
Cheers
Dave. pam is missing e-mail



Cheers Dave, will Google later and improve my education! Thanks

On Mon, 12 Apr 2004 11:20:09 +0100, "Set Square"
wrote:

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Matthew Humphreys wrote:


Which of the connections to the valve should be live for just the hw
to be heated?


Essentially none - but the wire which is connected to Pin 8 in the junction
box will be live because Pin 8 is powered from elsewhere. Some of the others
may glow dimly on your screwdriver because they're connected via the motor
windings etc.

The valve is least active in the Hot Water only position. It sits at its
"home" (spring return) position, where it directs water only to the heating
coil in the hot water cylinder. In this position, the actuator plays no part
in switching the boiler and pump - they are switched by the cylinder stat.
--
Cheers,
Set Square
______
Please reply to newsgroup. Reply address is Black Hole!


OK, perhaps we're getting somewhere!

I've had all the wiring double checked by a friend - we are confident
it is OK.

When I ask the system for hw on pins 6,7 amd 8 are live.
When the water is hot, 7 and 8 are live (7 is HW off, 8 is feed to the
boiler as you explained above.

This now seems to be logical!

One thought I had was that as the system is expecting a Danfoss
Randall 3 way valve, which has the CH/HW - A/B ports the other way
round (doesn't it?) and I have a Honeywell 3 port valve, is the
controller trying to ask the port to do the "wrong thing"?

If this is utter tripe, please tell me, I'm a mechanical engineer not
an electrical /heating engineer!

Is there any way to manual operate the valve to the "rest"/ HW only
position to see of the valve is playing ball.

What else can I do to check the valve is OK?

Any other ideas anyone?

Thanks for all the help over the last few days,



Matthew

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Matthew Humphreys wrote:

On Mon, 12 Apr 2004 11:20:09 +0100, "Set Square"
wrote:

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Matthew Humphreys wrote:


Which of the connections to the valve should be live for just the hw
to be heated?


Essentially none - but the wire which is connected to Pin 8 in the
junction box will be live because Pin 8 is powered from elsewhere.
Some of the others may glow dimly on your screwdriver because
they're connected via the motor windings etc.

The valve is least active in the Hot Water only position. It sits at
its "home" (spring return) position, where it directs water only to
the heating coil in the hot water cylinder. In this position, the
actuator plays no part in switching the boiler and pump - they are
switched by the cylinder stat. --
Cheers,
Set Square
______
Please reply to newsgroup. Reply address is Black Hole!


OK, perhaps we're getting somewhere!

I've had all the wiring double checked by a friend - we are confident
it is OK.

When I ask the system for hw on pins 6,7 amd 8 are live.
When the water is hot, 7 and 8 are live (7 is HW off, 8 is feed to the
boiler as you explained above.

This now seems to be logical!

One thought I had was that as the system is expecting a Danfoss
Randall 3 way valve, which has the CH/HW - A/B ports the other way
round (doesn't it?) and I have a Honeywell 3 port valve, is the
controller trying to ask the port to do the "wrong thing"?

If this is utter tripe, please tell me, I'm a mechanical engineer not
an electrical /heating engineer!

Is there any way to manual operate the valve to the "rest"/ HW only
position to see of the valve is playing ball.

What else can I do to check the valve is OK?

Any other ideas anyone?

Thanks for all the help over the last few days,



Matthew

If you're working to the Danfos schematic, Pin 8 shouldn't be live when the
water is hot - unless the central heating is also on.

When you turn all the power off to the heating system (at the main switch -
not the programmer) you should hear the valve return to its home position -
unless it is already there, in which case you won't.

If you want to check it's the right way round, disconnect the valve
completely from the junction box but leave everything else connected. Run
the system in the HW only mode. Hot water from the boiler should circulate
through the heating coil in the cylinder but not through the radiators. If
the radiators get hot but the heating coil doesn't, the valve is the wrong
way round!

If you are using a Honeywell valve with a Danfos junction box, the valve
wiring should be (as far as I can work out!):
Blue - Pin 2
Green/Yellow - Pin 3
White - Pin 5
Grey - Pin 7
Orange - Pin 8

--
Cheers,
Set Square
______
Please reply to newsgroup. Reply address is Black Hole!

On Tue, 13 Apr 2004 00:05:57 +0100, "Set Square"
wrote:

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Matthew Humphreys wrote:

On Mon, 12 Apr 2004 11:20:09 +0100, "Set Square"
wrote:

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Matthew Humphreys wrote:


Which of the connections to the valve should be live for just the hw
to be heated?


Essentially none - but the wire which is connected to Pin 8 in the
junction box will be live because Pin 8 is powered from elsewhere.
Some of the others may glow dimly on your screwdriver because
they're connected via the motor windings etc.

The valve is least active in the Hot Water only position. It sits at
its "home" (spring return) position, where it directs water only to
the heating coil in the hot water cylinder. In this position, the
actuator plays no part in switching the boiler and pump - they are
switched by the cylinder stat. --
Cheers,
Set Square
______
Please reply to newsgroup. Reply address is Black Hole!


OK, perhaps we're getting somewhere!

I've had all the wiring double checked by a friend - we are confident
it is OK.

When I ask the system for hw on pins 6,7 amd 8 are live.
When the water is hot, 7 and 8 are live (7 is HW off, 8 is feed to the
boiler as you explained above.

This now seems to be logical!

One thought I had was that as the system is expecting a Danfoss
Randall 3 way valve, which has the CH/HW - A/B ports the other way
round (doesn't it?) and I have a Honeywell 3 port valve, is the
controller trying to ask the port to do the "wrong thing"?

If this is utter tripe, please tell me, I'm a mechanical engineer not
an electrical /heating engineer!

Is there any way to manual operate the valve to the "rest"/ HW only
position to see of the valve is playing ball.

What else can I do to check the valve is OK?

Any other ideas anyone?

Thanks for all the help over the last few days,



Matthew

If you're working to the Danfos schematic, Pin 8 shouldn't be live when the
water is hot - unless the central heating is also on.

My mistake - pin 9 is dead when the tank is hot. It's been a long
day.....



When you turn all the power off to the heating system (at the main switch -
not the programmer) you should hear the valve return to its home position -
unless it is already there, in which case you won't.

If you want to check it's the right way round, disconnect the valve
completely from the junction box but leave everything else connected. Run
the system in the HW only mode. Hot water from the boiler should circulate
through the heating coil in the cylinder but not through the radiators. If
the radiators get hot but the heating coil doesn't, the valve is the wrong
way round!


Will try that tomorrow.

If you are using a Honeywell valve with a Danfos junction box, the valve
wiring should be (as far as I can work out!):
Blue - Pin 2
Green/Yellow - Pin 3
White - Pin 5
Grey - Pin 7
Orange - Pin 8


thats what I've got too.

--
Cheers,
Set Square
______
Please reply to newsgroup. Reply address is Black Hole!


Cheers,

Matthew

If you want to check it's the right way round, disconnect the valve
completely from the junction box but leave everything else connected. Run
the system in the HW only mode. Hot water from the boiler should circulate
through the heating coil in the cylinder but not through the radiators. If
the radiators get hot but the heating coil doesn't, the valve is the wrong
way round!


Will try that tomorrow.
Will it took a bit longer then planned...

The system is now running without the valve wiring connected, and BOTH
sides of the valve appear to be getting hot - some of this could be
conduction from the feed from the boiler, but I don't think so!

Where now?

Cheers,


Matt

On Sat, 24 Apr 2004 19:10:35 GMT, (Matthew Humphreys)
wrote:

If you want to check it's the right way round, disconnect the valve
completely from the junction box but leave everything else connected. Run
the system in the HW only mode. Hot water from the boiler should circulate
through the heating coil in the cylinder but not through the radiators. If
the radiators get hot but the heating coil doesn't, the valve is the wrong
way round!


Will try that tomorrow.
Will it took a bit longer then planned...

The system is now running without the valve wiring connected, and BOTH
sides of the valve appear to be getting hot - some of this could be
conduction from the feed from the boiler, but I don't think so!

Where now?

Cheers,


Matt


UPDATE - the heating output from the valve is not hot!

BUT.... the radiators are getting hot......... HELP!!!

I have not got a clue what is going on here!