Hi everyone!

I have a Danfoss Controller (FP715) connected to a Honeywell 3 way
valve via the Danfoss wiring box.

I installed it a while back, but it is only now the days have become
warmer that I had spotted a problem.

If I, via the programmer, turn the central heating on, the rads get
hot.

If I turn the CH and hot water on, the rads get hot and the water is
heated.

Now that the warmer days are here, I only wanted the hot water heater,
with no central heating. Unfortunately both the hot water and
central heating are switched on!

This isn't really what I wanted to happen!

I have read, and re-read, the FAQ on 3 port valves, and can only
assume that I have wired it incorreclty.

Can anyone else who has a honeywell 3 port valve please confirm what
colour cable I should have where?

I have my hot feed to AB, my CH is port A, the HW is port B (is the
OK)? (As I am writing this, I think the ports should be the other way
round?)

The connections for the wiring box a

Green Earth
Blue Neutral
White CH Call for heat
Grey HW off
Orange HW on (via the cyl sat)

Does this sound correct?

From the FAQ (which makes me think I have the valve the wrong way
round).

Green/Yellow Safety Earth
Brown Not used.
Orange Go fully to 'B' when live.
Grey Live when at 'AB' or 'B'
White Go to 'AB' or 'B'.


If I have the valve the wrong way round, can I just swap the Grey and
white connections over?

Many thanks for your help, and apologies for my ramblings!


Matthew

On Sun, 11 Apr 2004 10:35:27 GMT, in uk.d-i-y
(Matthew Humphreys) strung together this:

I have my hot feed to AB, my CH is port A, the HW is port B (is the
OK)? (As I am writing this, I think the ports should be the other way
round?)

Nope, thats fine.

The connections for the wiring box a

Green Earth
Blue Neutral
White CH Call for heat
Grey HW off
Orange HW on (via the cyl sat)

Does this sound correct?

Yes.

From the FAQ (which makes me think I have the valve the wrong way
round).

Green/Yellow Safety Earth
Brown Not used.
Orange Go fully to 'B' when live.
Grey Live when at 'AB' or 'B'
White Go to 'AB' or 'B'.


If I have the valve the wrong way round, can I just swap the Grey and
white connections over?

No. I think your wiring fault is elsewhere in the system, assuming it
isn't a faulty component somewhere.
You might want to read these.
http://tinyurl.com/2dr9m
http://tinyurl.com/26hzu
Check the system through, with a test meter, for the correct voltages
at the right places.
--

SJW
A.C.S. Ltd.

On Sun, 11 Apr 2004 11:00:13 GMT, (Lurch)
wrote:


I have my hot feed to AB, my CH is port A, the HW is port B (is the
OK)? (As I am writing this, I think the ports should be the other way
round?)

Nope, thats fine.

The connections for the wiring box a

Green Earth
Blue Neutral
White CH Call for heat
Grey HW off
Orange HW on (via the cyl sat)

Does this sound correct?

Yes.

No. I think your wiring fault is elsewhere in the system, assuming it
isn't a faulty component somewhere.
You might want to read these.
http://tinyurl.com/2dr9m
http://tinyurl.com/26hzu
Check the system through, with a test meter, for the correct voltages
at the right places.

Many thanks for that SJW.

Thanks for the links.

Looks like the plumbing is correct, perhaps I have a wiring fault
elsewhere.

Any ideas where to start?

If I call for heating only, the CH side of the pipework get hot.
If I call for both, both sets of pipework gets hot - if I lower the
seting on the tank stat the HW side of the pipework cools down.
If I call for HW only, both sides get hot, and adjusting the stat
switches the pump off so both sides cool down!

Does this help?

Thanks again,


Matthew

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Matthew Humphreys wrote:

On Sun, 11 Apr 2004 11:00:13 GMT, (Lurch)
wrote:


I have my hot feed to AB, my CH is port A, the HW is port B (is
the OK)? (As I am writing this, I think the ports should be the
other way round?)

Nope, thats fine.

The connections for the wiring box a

Green Earth
Blue Neutral
White CH Call for heat
Grey HW off
Orange HW on (via the cyl sat)

Does this sound correct?

Yes.

No. I think your wiring fault is elsewhere in the system, assuming it
isn't a faulty component somewhere.
You might want to read these.
http://tinyurl.com/2dr9m
http://tinyurl.com/26hzu
Check the system through, with a test meter, for the correct voltages
at the right places.

Many thanks for that SJW.

Thanks for the links.

Looks like the plumbing is correct, perhaps I have a wiring fault
elsewhere.

Any ideas where to start?

If I call for heating only, the CH side of the pipework get hot.
If I call for both, both sets of pipework gets hot - if I lower the
seting on the tank stat the HW side of the pipework cools down.
If I call for HW only, both sides get hot, and adjusting the stat
switches the pump off so both sides cool down!

Does this help?

Thanks again,


Matthew

Check the wiring in your junction box. When hot water only is switched on,
pins 1 and 6 in the junction box should be live. When you turn the cylinder
stat up to a high temperature, pin 8 should be live (and pin 7 not live).
When you turn the cylstat down to a low temperature, pin 8 should cease to
be live and pin 7 should become live instead.

The boiler and pump (or just the boiler if the pump is connected via an
over-run stat on the boiler) should be connected to pin 8 - so the boiler
should fire when the cylstat is turned up.

Check these things, and let us know the score.
--
Cheers,
Set Square
______
Please reply to newsgroup. Reply address is Black Hole!

On Sun, 11 Apr 2004 14:54:13 +0100, "Set Square"
wrote:


Matthew

Check the wiring in your junction box. When hot water only is switched on,
pins 1 and 6 in the junction box should be live. When you turn the cylinder
stat up to a high temperature, pin 8 should be live (and pin 7 not live).
When you turn the cylstat down to a low temperature, pin 8 should cease to
be live and pin 7 should become live instead.

The boiler and pump (or just the boiler if the pump is connected via an
over-run stat on the boiler) should be connected to pin 8 - so the boiler
should fire when the cylstat is turned up.

Check these things, and let us know the score.
--
Cheers,
Set Square
______
Please reply to newsgroup. Reply address is Black Hole!




Thanks for the help - not bad support for an Easter Sunday!
OK,

If I ask for HW only, pins 6,7,8 and 9 of the Danfoss wiring box are
live! This doesn't sound right!

If I drop the stat temp, then 8 and 9 go off.

The boiler is on pin 9, which in turn is linked to pin 8 (as per the
installation sheet) - which seems OK.

Pin 7 is the "HW off" from the stat, I think

Hope this is starting to make sense to someone!

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Matthew Humphreys wrote:

On Sun, 11 Apr 2004 14:54:13 +0100, "Set Square"
wrote:


Matthew

Check the wiring in your junction box. When hot water only is
switched on, pins 1 and 6 in the junction box should be live. When
you turn the cylinder stat up to a high temperature, pin 8 should be
live (and pin 7 not live). When you turn the cylstat down to a low
temperature, pin 8 should cease to be live and pin 7 should become
live instead.

The boiler and pump (or just the boiler if the pump is connected via
an over-run stat on the boiler) should be connected to pin 8 - so
the boiler should fire when the cylstat is turned up.

Check these things, and let us know the score.
--
Cheers,
Set Square
______
Please reply to newsgroup. Reply address is Black Hole!




Thanks for the help - not bad support for an Easter Sunday!
OK,

If I ask for HW only, pins 6,7,8 and 9 of the Danfoss wiring box are
live! This doesn't sound right!

If I drop the stat temp, then 8 and 9 go off.

The boiler is on pin 9, which in turn is linked to pin 8 (as per the
installation sheet) - which seems OK.

Pin 7 is the "HW off" from the stat, I think

Hope this is starting to make sense to someone!

I was referring to the pin (connection) numbers in the 10-way junction box
shown under Y-plan in http://content.honeywell.com/uk/homes/systems.htm

It sounds like you have a different wiring scheme if the boiler is on 9! Do
you have a reference to a diagram which covers your setup? [On the Honeywell
diagram shown in my reference, 9 and 10 are not used!]

That aside, if - as you say - 8 and 9 are live when calling for HW only, and
the boiler is on 9, I'm at a loss to know why the boiler isn't coming on and
heating the water.

--
Cheers,
Set Square
______
Please reply to newsgroup. Reply address is Black Hole!

On Sun, 11 Apr 2004 15:56:17 GMT, in uk.d-i-y
(Matthew Humphreys) strung together this:

Check the wiring in your junction box. When hot water only is switched on,
pins 1 and 6 in the junction box should be live. When you turn the cylinder
stat up to a high temperature, pin 8 should be live (and pin 7 not live).
When you turn the cylstat down to a low temperature, pin 8 should cease to
be live and pin 7 should become live instead.

The boiler and pump (or just the boiler if the pump is connected via an
over-run stat on the boiler) should be connected to pin 8 - so the boiler
should fire when the cylstat is turned up.

Check these things, and let us know the score.

Thanks for the help - not bad support for an Easter Sunday!
OK,

If I ask for HW only, pins 6,7,8 and 9 of the Danfoss wiring box are
live! This doesn't sound right!

I think from what you say pins 8+9 are the boiler and pump.

If I drop the stat temp, then 8 and 9 go off.

That sounds right.

The boiler is on pin 9, which in turn is linked to pin 8 (as per the
installation sheet) - which seems OK.

Pin 7 is the "HW off" from the stat, I think

Hope this is starting to make sense to someone!

I think this might help. http://tinyurl.com/3fyca I'm assuming the
wiring you have is as this diagram is, if it's different then what I
said could be totally wrong.
If I were you I would check the wiring at the clock, stat etc and
ensure it is all right.
--

SJW
A.C.S. Ltd.

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Matthew Humphreys wrote:

Hi everyone!

I have a Danfoss Controller (FP715) connected to a Honeywell 3 way
valve via the Danfoss wiring box.

I installed it a while back, but it is only now the days have become
warmer that I had spotted a problem.

If I, via the programmer, turn the central heating on, the rads get
hot.

If I turn the CH and hot water on, the rads get hot and the water is
heated.

Now that the warmer days are here, I only wanted the hot water heater,
with no central heating. Unfortunately both the hot water and
central heating are switched on!

This isn't really what I wanted to happen!

I have read, and re-read, the FAQ on 3 port valves, and can only
assume that I have wired it incorreclty.

Can anyone else who has a honeywell 3 port valve please confirm what
colour cable I should have where?

I have my hot feed to AB, my CH is port A, the HW is port B (is the
OK)? (As I am writing this, I think the ports should be the other way
round?)

The connections for the wiring box a

Green Earth
Blue Neutral
White CH Call for heat
Grey HW off
Orange HW on (via the cyl sat)

Does this sound correct?

From the FAQ (which makes me think I have the valve the wrong way
round).

Green/Yellow Safety Earth
Brown Not used.
Orange Go fully to 'B' when live.
Grey Live when at 'AB' or 'B'
White Go to 'AB' or 'B'.


If I have the valve the wrong way round, can I just swap the Grey and
white connections over?

Many thanks for your help, and apologies for my ramblings!


Matthew

Make sure that the layout and wiring is as per the Y-plan details given in
http://content.honeywell.com/uk/homes/systems.htm

I think A is ok for heating and B for hot water - check the Honeywell
references which someone else has given.

If you *do* get them the wrong way round, you can't easily correct it with a
simple wiring change. This is because - when installed correctly - the hot
water wiring requires an ON *and* OFF signal from the programmer, and
requires the cylinder stat to have change-over (as opposed to just on/off)
contacts. If you swap this round, the heating would need a "not required"
signal from the programmer, and the room stat would have to be the
change-over sort. It also means that the valve actuator would be consuming
power rather than sitting at its home position throughout the summer when
only hot water is required.

Under these circumstances, it is far better to turn the valve round - even
though it means partially draining the system.
--
Cheers,
Set Square
______
Please reply to newsgroup. Reply address is Black Hole!