Hi All,

I currently have a Drayton RTS1 room thermostat wired in. In an
attempt to better control my CH I am looking at replacing the above
with a Danfoss TP7000 (the replacement for the TP75 series).

The wiring to the RTS1 has 5 wires connected as follows:-

2 x N
1 x L
1 x C(all)
1 x Earth

There are 3 (+ earth) connections on the RTS1 being N, L and Call.

Looking at the Danfoss website (http://heating.danfoss.com) and
getting the PDF for the 7000 series, the two models I am looking at
are the TP7000 and the TP7000M (the M being mains powered).

The wiring for the TP7000 is listed as being; COM, ON and OFF

The wiring for the TP7000M is the same as above with an additional N
and L

Now the question is, which wires would I connnect to where? I am
assuming for the TP7000 the wiring would be:-

N -- COM
C -- ON

The remaining wires not being used?

and for the TP7000M;

N -- COM
C -- ON
N -- N
L -- L

Does this look right or am I missing something here? (there is a
wiring diagram in the PDF from Dandoss's site)

Also, can anyone recommend the best place to get one from? The
cheapest I have found so far is from
www.buydirectheatingsupplies.co.uk @ 47.39 ukp but this doesn't say if
it is the battery or mains powered version. Most places I have looked
only stock the older TP75 but SWMBO likes the look of the 7000 series
better.

Any help / comments appreciated!


LN

Now the question is, which wires would I connnect to where? I am
assuming for the TP7000 the wiring would be:-

N -- COM
C -- ON

The remaining wires not being used?

and for the TP7000M;

N -- COM
C -- ON
N -- N
L -- L

There's no point in connection a neutral to the switch common. It will cause
the heating to go permanently off.

L(CH On) -- COM
C -- ON
(TP7000M only)
L(Perm) -- L
N -- N

The old "Live" is probably not permanent live. Old analogue room stats had
connections for CH On (from programmer), Call for heat (to zone valve), and
neutral (used to power a heater to affect hysteresis). I have no idea why
you appear to have two neutral connections, though. It is possible you have
an odd installation.

Unfortunately, if the wiring is conventional you probably don't have a
permanent live available, which may preclude the use of the TP7000M, unless
you either rewire, or disconnect the 'L' line from programmer "CH On" and
connect to permanent live. This will prevent the old programmer being used
as a master control, however. (Obviously, the new thermostat would have to
be programmable as it will disable the programmer's CH timing
functionality).

Christian.

"Christian McArdle" wrote in message
et...
Now the question is, which wires would I connnect to where? I am
assuming for the TP7000 the wiring would be:-

N -- COM
C -- ON

The remaining wires not being used?

and for the TP7000M;

N -- COM
C -- ON
N -- N
L -- L

There's no point in connection a neutral to the switch common. It will
cause
the heating to go permanently off.

L(CH On) -- COM
C -- ON
(TP7000M only)
L(Perm) -- L
N -- N

The old "Live" is probably not permanent live. Old analogue room stats had
connections for CH On (from programmer), Call for heat (to zone valve),
and
neutral (used to power a heater to affect hysteresis). I have no idea why
you appear to have two neutral connections, though. It is possible you
have
an odd installation.

One possibiliy is that 5 core flex is been used, the one with 2 black wires.
It is often easier to double up on the neutral than identify the black
cables. I know that the cables are usually numbered, but not all are.

Unfortunately, if the wiring is conventional you probably don't have a
permanent live available,

If the neutrals are doubled up back at the boiler/wiring box it would be
possible to seperate them to give the permant live required

Have a look at the other end of the cable (if it is just one cable/flex to
see if this is possible)
--
Adam

[Replacing a RTS1 thermostat with a Danfoss TP7000]

L(CH On) -- COM
C -- ON
(TP7000M only)
L(Perm) -- L
N -- N

[SNIP]

One possibiliy is that 5 core flex is been used, the one with 2 black wires.
It is often easier to double up on the neutral than identify the black
cables. I know that the cables are usually numbered, but not all are.

There are two set's of cable running to the thermostat, one set is the
L, N & Earth, the other is the N & Call.

Does this help any?

Unfortunately, if the wiring is conventional you probably don't have a
permanent live available,

It is a 4B detached house built in '96 by Jelson's. AFAIK, the wiring
for the CH has not been altered since it was built. (not to say it is
'conventional' but in general Jelson houses are pretty well built e.g.
Solid wood doors, breeze-block / plaster on all walls up&down etc)

If the neutrals are doubled up back at the boiler/wiring box it would be
possible to seperate them to give the permant live required

Have a look at the other end of the cable (if it is just one cable/flex to
see if this is possible)

The timer is in our utility room with the room thermostat in the hall.
Am I correct in assuming that all these wires will go back to the
timer/controller? or will some go to the valves upstairs in the airing
cupboard?

Is there any easy way to tell?


LN

"Christian McArdle" wrote in message . net...
Now the question is, which wires would I connnect to where? I am
assuming for the TP7000 the wiring would be:-
N -- COM
C -- ON
The remaining wires not being used?
There's no point in connection a neutral to the switch common. It will cause
the heating to go permanently off.
L(CH On) -- COM
C -- ON
(TP7000M only)
L(Perm) -- L
N -- N

Looking at the PDF from http://heating.danfoss.com for the TP7000
again, the three connections are COM, ON & OFF. Should the 'OFF' be
connected to N ? (If I am reading the diagram correctly, 'COM' is
switched to 'ON' or 'OFF')

The old "Live" is probably not permanent live. Old analogue room stats had
connections for CH On (from programmer), Call for heat (to zone valve), and
neutral (used to power a heater to affect hysteresis). I have no idea why
you appear to have two neutral connections, though. It is possible you have
an odd installation.

See my other post on this, there are two sets/cores of cable running
to the box, N/L/E and N/Call. Is one set going to the CH programmer
and the other to
the zone valve (I assume this is the motorised valve(s) located next
to the HW tank?)

Unfortunately, if the wiring is conventional you probably don't have a
permanent live available, which may preclude the use of the TP7000M, unless
you either rewire, or disconnect the 'L' line from programmer "CH On" and
connect to permanent live. This will prevent the old programmer being used
as a master control, however. (Obviously, the new thermostat would have to
be programmable as it will disable the programmer's CH timing
functionality).

I would prefer to be able to switch off the CH if needed from the
programmer...

LN

There are two set's of cable running to the thermostat, one set is the
L, N & Earth, the other is the N & Call.

Does this help any?

It is possible that one cable is from the programmer with the L (actually CH
On, not permanent) and N.

The other cable might go directly to the zone valve, particularly if it
isn't mounted in the same place as the programmer. This would explain the
doubled up neutrals.

Christian.

Looking at the PDF from http://heating.danfoss.com for the TP7000
again, the three connections are COM, ON & OFF. Should the 'OFF' be
connected to N ? (If I am reading the diagram correctly, 'COM' is
switched to 'ON' or 'OFF')

NO!!!!!!!

Do not under any circumstances connect any neutrals to any of the switch
connections.

Christian.