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Default Bad smell from washing machine

We have a 4 year old Samsung washing machine (Eco Bubble Quiet Drive
WF0804W8E I think it is called). It has been used every couple of days
or so since new without any problem.
When we came back from a 2 week holiday away in October I noticed quite
a bad mouldy smell coming from its direction. I removed the dispenser
tray and found that behind its housing was mouldy and black. I cleaned
the area as best as I could and then ran the machine on max temperature
on empty. I also cleaner the filter.
Unfortunately the smell is still there and it seems to come from inside
the hole into which the detergent and conditioner are fed into the
machine. I hope that makes sense, but I put a couple of photos here just
in case:
http://tinypic.com/r/10gwoit/9
http://tinypic.com/r/ilhhyo/9

(note that the black marks in the photos have been thoroughly scraped
and would simply not go away).

Any idea what do do to resolve this?

I think that it came with 5 year warranty, so I can try that, but am
hoping that it is something simple€¦
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Default Bad smell from washing machine

On Wednesday, 6 December 2017 20:18:13 UTC, JoeJoe wrote:

We have a 4 year old Samsung washing machine (Eco Bubble Quiet Drive
WF0804W8E I think it is called). It has been used every couple of days
or so since new without any problem.
When we came back from a 2 week holiday away in October I noticed quite
a bad mouldy smell coming from its direction. I removed the dispenser
tray and found that behind its housing was mouldy and black. I cleaned
the area as best as I could and then ran the machine on max temperature
on empty. I also cleaner the filter.
Unfortunately the smell is still there and it seems to come from inside
the hole into which the detergent and conditioner are fed into the
machine. I hope that makes sense, but I put a couple of photos here just
in case:
http://tinypic.com/r/10gwoit/9
http://tinypic.com/r/ilhhyo/9

(note that the black marks in the photos have been thoroughly scraped
and would simply not go away).

Any idea what do do to resolve this?

I think that it came with 5 year warranty, so I can try that, but am
hoping that it is something simple€¦


Wipe around the soap dispensing area with bleach. Put it in the drawer if the machine is bleach compatible, not all are. A monthly boiling hot wash really helps, alternately with a tb of citric acid or washing soda. If not bleachable, doses of some other bleach killer down the chute would help. Also clean the folds of the door rubber, that tends to build up lots of mould.

I plan to experiment with fitting copper wire in the soap drawer, see if that prevents its growth.


NT
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Default Bad smell from washing machine

In article ,
writes
On Wednesday, 6 December 2017 20:18:13 UTC, JoeJoe wrote:

We have a 4 year old Samsung washing machine (Eco Bubble Quiet Drive
WF0804W8E I think it is called). It has been used every couple of days
or so since new without any problem.
When we came back from a 2 week holiday away in October I noticed quite
a bad mouldy smell coming from its direction. I removed the dispenser
tray and found that behind its housing was mouldy and black. I cleaned
the area as best as I could and then ran the machine on max temperature
on empty. I also cleaner the filter.
Unfortunately the smell is still there and it seems to come from inside
the hole into which the detergent and conditioner are fed into the
machine. I hope that makes sense, but I put a couple of photos here just
in case:
http://tinypic.com/r/10gwoit/9
http://tinypic.com/r/ilhhyo/9

(note that the black marks in the photos have been thoroughly scraped
and would simply not go away).

Any idea what do do to resolve this?

I think that it came with 5 year warranty, so I can try that, but am
hoping that it is something simple€¦


Wipe around the soap dispensing area with bleach. Put it in the drawer
if the machine is bleach compatible, not all are. A monthly boiling hot
wash really helps, alternately with a tb of citric acid or washing
soda. If not bleachable, doses of some other bleach killer down the
chute would help. Also clean the folds of the door rubber, that tends
to build up lots of mould.

I plan to experiment with fitting copper wire in the soap drawer, see
if that prevents its growth.


NT

And continue thereafter to clean it a regular intervals as per
manufacturers recommendations. I don't think the OP would have much joy
with a warranty claim!! Also take out and clean the filter by the pump.
--
bert
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Default Bad smell from washing machine

On 06/12/2017 20:18, JoeJoe wrote:
We have a 4 year old Samsung washing machine (Eco Bubble Quiet Drive
WF0804W8E I think it is called). It has been used every couple of days
or so since new without any problem.
When we came back from a 2 week holiday away in October I noticed quite
a bad mouldy smell coming from its direction. I removed the dispenser
tray and found that behind its housing was mouldy and black. I cleaned
the area as best as I could and then ran the machine on max temperature
on empty. I also cleaner the filter.
Unfortunately the smell is still there and it seems to come from inside
the hole into which the detergent and conditioner are fed into the
machine. I hope that makes sense, but I put a couple of photos here just
in case:
http://tinypic.com/r/10gwoit/9
http://tinypic.com/r/ilhhyo/9

(note that the black marks in the photos have been thoroughly scraped
and would simply not go away).

Any idea what do do to resolve this?

I think that it came with 5 year warranty, so I can try that, but am
hoping that it is something simple€¦


You could go over to the capsules!


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Default Bad smell from washing machine

I have to say that for many years after suffering this in an old Service
machine, I now use liquid blob things in with the washing as although one
can clean the trays by removing them its the bit of pipe from there to the
top of the durum where you cannot get at that pongs. People say Calgon or
some other similar products if used from new regularly can help while other
suggest the rot away the innards!
Brian

--
----- -
This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

Blind user, so no pictures please!
"JoeJoe" wrote in message
o.uk...
We have a 4 year old Samsung washing machine (Eco Bubble Quiet Drive
WF0804W8E I think it is called). It has been used every couple of days or
so since new without any problem.
When we came back from a 2 week holiday away in October I noticed quite a
bad mouldy smell coming from its direction. I removed the dispenser tray
and found that behind its housing was mouldy and black. I cleaned the area
as best as I could and then ran the machine on max temperature on empty. I
also cleaner the filter.
Unfortunately the smell is still there and it seems to come from inside
the hole into which the detergent and conditioner are fed into the
machine. I hope that makes sense, but I put a couple of photos here just
in case:
http://tinypic.com/r/10gwoit/9
http://tinypic.com/r/ilhhyo/9

(note that the black marks in the photos have been thoroughly scraped and
would simply not go away).

Any idea what do do to resolve this?

I think that it came with 5 year warranty, so I can try that, but am
hoping that it is something simple.



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Default Bad smell from washing machine

Most drawers do detach and you should see the mess underneath if you use
powder, the conditioner is best thinned before use to stop it acting like
fly paper when its left for a while.
Brian

--
----- -
This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

Blind user, so no pictures please!
wrote in message
...
On Wednesday, 6 December 2017 20:18:13 UTC, JoeJoe wrote:

We have a 4 year old Samsung washing machine (Eco Bubble Quiet Drive
WF0804W8E I think it is called). It has been used every couple of days
or so since new without any problem.
When we came back from a 2 week holiday away in October I noticed quite
a bad mouldy smell coming from its direction. I removed the dispenser
tray and found that behind its housing was mouldy and black. I cleaned
the area as best as I could and then ran the machine on max temperature
on empty. I also cleaner the filter.
Unfortunately the smell is still there and it seems to come from inside
the hole into which the detergent and conditioner are fed into the
machine. I hope that makes sense, but I put a couple of photos here just
in case:
http://tinypic.com/r/10gwoit/9
http://tinypic.com/r/ilhhyo/9

(note that the black marks in the photos have been thoroughly scraped
and would simply not go away).

Any idea what do do to resolve this?

I think that it came with 5 year warranty, so I can try that, but am
hoping that it is something simple.


Wipe around the soap dispensing area with bleach. Put it in the drawer if
the machine is bleach compatible, not all are. A monthly boiling hot wash
really helps, alternately with a tb of citric acid or washing soda. If not
bleachable, doses of some other bleach killer down the chute would help.
Also clean the folds of the door rubber, that tends to build up lots of
mould.

I plan to experiment with fitting copper wire in the soap drawer, see if
that prevents its growth.


NT


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Default Bad smell from washing machine

On Wednesday, 6 December 2017 20:41:56 UTC, wrote:
On Wednesday, 6 December 2017 20:18:13 UTC, JoeJoe wrote:

We have a 4 year old Samsung washing machine (Eco Bubble Quiet Drive
WF0804W8E I think it is called). It has been used every couple of days
or so since new without any problem.
When we came back from a 2 week holiday away in October I noticed quite
a bad mouldy smell coming from its direction. I removed the dispenser
tray and found that behind its housing was mouldy and black. I cleaned
the area as best as I could and then ran the machine on max temperature
on empty. I also cleaner the filter.
Unfortunately the smell is still there and it seems to come from inside
the hole into which the detergent and conditioner are fed into the
machine. I hope that makes sense, but I put a couple of photos here just
in case:
http://tinypic.com/r/10gwoit/9
http://tinypic.com/r/ilhhyo/9

(note that the black marks in the photos have been thoroughly scraped
and would simply not go away).

Any idea what do do to resolve this?

I think that it came with 5 year warranty, so I can try that, but am
hoping that it is something simple€¦


Wipe around the soap dispensing area with bleach. Put it in the drawer if the machine is bleach compatible, not all are. A monthly boiling hot wash really helps, alternately with a tb of citric acid or washing soda. If not bleachable, doses of some other bleach killer down the chute would help. Also clean the folds of the door rubber, that tends to build up lots of mould..

I plan to experiment with fitting copper wire in the soap drawer, see if that prevents its growth.


NT


Plus leave the door open when not in use.
Some machines have drain on the rubber door seal to stop water accumulations.
Check this is clear. (Can get blocked with soap/lime)
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Default Bad smell from washing machine

On 2017-12-06, wrote:

On Wednesday, 6 December 2017 20:18:13 UTC, JoeJoe wrote:

We have a 4 year old Samsung washing machine (Eco Bubble Quiet Drive
WF0804W8E I think it is called). It has been used every couple of days
or so since new without any problem.
When we came back from a 2 week holiday away in October I noticed quite
a bad mouldy smell coming from its direction. I removed the dispenser
tray and found that behind its housing was mouldy and black. I cleaned
the area as best as I could and then ran the machine on max temperature
on empty. I also cleaner the filter.
Unfortunately the smell is still there and it seems to come from inside
the hole into which the detergent and conditioner are fed into the
machine. I hope that makes sense, but I put a couple of photos here just
in case:
http://tinypic.com/r/10gwoit/9
http://tinypic.com/r/ilhhyo/9

(note that the black marks in the photos have been thoroughly scraped
and would simply not go away).

....
Wipe around the soap dispensing area with bleach. Put it in the
drawer if the machine is bleach compatible, not all are. A monthly
boiling hot wash really helps, alternately with a tb of citric acid
or washing soda. If not bleachable, doses of some other bleach
killer down the chute would help. Also clean the folds of the door
rubber, that tends to build up lots of mould.

I plan to experiment with fitting copper wire in the soap drawer, see if that prevents its growth.


The problem I've had is with black mould in the *top* of the slot that
the drawer goes into. I've managed to get it fairly clean (although
it's awkward) & I'm maintaining it by spraying distilled vinegar into
the slot & the drawer most mornings [1] after I take the laundry out.

How much copper wire "coverage" would you need to have the desired
effect? (I thought copper was more antibacterial than antifungal,
TBH.)



[1] Of course, I forgot today, now that I've said that.
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Default Bad smell from washing machine

On Thursday, 7 December 2017 13:00:08 UTC, Adam Funk wrote:
On 2017-12-06, tabbypurr wrote:

Wipe around the soap dispensing area with bleach. Put it in the
drawer if the machine is bleach compatible, not all are. A monthly
boiling hot wash really helps, alternately with a tb of citric acid
or washing soda. If not bleachable, doses of some other bleach
killer down the chute would help. Also clean the folds of the door
rubber, that tends to build up lots of mould.


Just remembered the bit about the "boiling hot wash". I don't think
that will have much effect on the detergent drawer & it's slot, since
the water is heated up after it goes through there.


On my machine steam comes out of the drawer. YMMV.


NT
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Default Bad smell from washing machine

On Thursday, 7 December 2017 13:00:08 UTC, Adam Funk wrote:
On 2017-12-06, tabbypurr wrote:
On Wednesday, 6 December 2017 20:18:13 UTC, JoeJoe wrote:

We have a 4 year old Samsung washing machine (Eco Bubble Quiet Drive
WF0804W8E I think it is called). It has been used every couple of days
or so since new without any problem.
When we came back from a 2 week holiday away in October I noticed quite
a bad mouldy smell coming from its direction. I removed the dispenser
tray and found that behind its housing was mouldy and black. I cleaned
the area as best as I could and then ran the machine on max temperature
on empty. I also cleaner the filter.
Unfortunately the smell is still there and it seems to come from inside
the hole into which the detergent and conditioner are fed into the
machine. I hope that makes sense, but I put a couple of photos here just
in case:
http://tinypic.com/r/10gwoit/9
http://tinypic.com/r/ilhhyo/9

(note that the black marks in the photos have been thoroughly scraped
and would simply not go away).

...
Wipe around the soap dispensing area with bleach. Put it in the
drawer if the machine is bleach compatible, not all are. A monthly
boiling hot wash really helps, alternately with a tb of citric acid
or washing soda. If not bleachable, doses of some other bleach
killer down the chute would help. Also clean the folds of the door
rubber, that tends to build up lots of mould.

I plan to experiment with fitting copper wire in the soap drawer, see if that prevents its growth.


The problem I've had is with black mould in the *top* of the slot that
the drawer goes into. I've managed to get it fairly clean (although
it's awkward) & I'm maintaining it by spraying distilled vinegar into
the slot & the drawer most mornings [1] after I take the laundry out.


Black mould tends to get all over. Will see if the copper works first, I'm less optomistic about it clearing splash areas but you never know.


How much copper wire "coverage" would you need to have the desired
effect?


no idea

(I thought copper was more antibacterial than antifungal,
TBH.)



[1] Of course, I forgot today, now that I've said that.

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On Thu, 07 Dec 2017 17:24:22 +0000, Chris Hogg wrote:


To the OP: If it were my problem, I'd remove the detergent drawer and
spray it and the slot it fits in liberally with HG Mould Spray.


My missus did that, god knows exactly how she sprayed it in but some
spray vapour must have ricocheted or something and got onto a circuit
board as the display went haywire when next turned on.
The deposited spray must have been conductive enough to affect
something.
All options displayed at once and no response to any input.
Thought it was going to need intensive repair but fortunatley blowing
warm air into the soap slot for about 3 hours rectified the situation.
That was four years ago now so we seem to have got away with it.
That the drawer could be released and cleaned elsewhere had escaped
her attention.

G.Harman
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On Thursday, 7 December 2017 21:49:34 UTC, wrote:
On Thu, 07 Dec 2017 17:24:22 +0000, Chris Hogg wrote:


To the OP: If it were my problem, I'd remove the detergent drawer and
spray it and the slot it fits in liberally with HG Mould Spray.


My missus did that, god knows exactly how she sprayed it in but some
spray vapour must have ricocheted or something and got onto a circuit
board as the display went haywire when next turned on.
The deposited spray must have been conductive enough to affect
something.
All options displayed at once and no response to any input.
Thought it was going to need intensive repair but fortunatley blowing
warm air into the soap slot for about 3 hours rectified the situation.
That was four years ago now so we seem to have got away with it.
That the drawer could be released and cleaned elsewhere had escaped
her attention.

G.Harman


IIRC HG mould remover spray contains bleach.


NT
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On 2017-12-07, Chris Hogg wrote:

On Thu, 07 Dec 2017 12:54:39 +0000, Adam Funk
wrote:

(I thought copper was more antibacterial than antifungal,
TBH.)


Dunno about antibacterial, but copper salts are widely used in
horticulture as a fungicide. A copper strip along the ridge of your
roof is also said to stop moss growing. The OP can but try it.


Interesting, thanks.

To the OP: If it were my problem, I'd remove the detergent drawer and
spray it and the slot it fits in liberally with HG Mould Spray. It's
obviously bleach-based from the smell, but there must be a persistent
fungicide in there as well, as it's effective for much longer than
simple bleach when applied to patches of black mould on cold walls and
in the bathroom. http://ebay.eu/2BdQdBl


Having ruined a couple of good items of clothing, I'm reluctant to
throw chlorine bleach around now. I did use it to clean the black
mould out, but I wouldn't leave it in there.
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Chris Hogg wrote:
On Thu, 07 Dec 2017 12:54:39 +0000, Adam Funk
wrote:

(I thought copper was more antibacterial than antifungal,
TBH.)


Dunno about antibacterial, but copper salts are widely used in
horticulture as a fungicide. A copper strip along the ridge of your
roof is also said to stop moss growing. The OP can but try it.

To the OP: If it were my problem, I'd remove the detergent drawer and
spray it and the slot it fits in liberally with HG Mould Spray. It's
obviously bleach-based from the smell, but there must be a persistent
fungicide in there as well, as it's effective for much longer than
simple bleach when applied to patches of black mould on cold walls and
in the bathroom. http://ebay.eu/2BdQdBl


No need to do that with the detergent drawer. Take it out, stick it in a
bucket of water with a blast of bleach and washing up liquid and leave
overnight. It comes up gleaming.


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Default Bad smell from washing machine

On Friday, 8 December 2017 22:04:22 UTC, Steve Walker wrote:
On 07/12/2017 15:02, tabbypurr wrote:
On Thursday, 7 December 2017 13:00:08 UTC, Adam Funk wrote:
On 2017-12-06, tabbypurr wrote:

Wipe around the soap dispensing area with bleach. Put it in the
drawer if the machine is bleach compatible, not all are. A monthly
boiling hot wash really helps, alternately with a tb of citric acid
or washing soda. If not bleachable, doses of some other bleach
killer down the chute would help. Also clean the folds of the door
rubber, that tends to build up lots of mould.

Just remembered the bit about the "boiling hot wash". I don't think
that will have much effect on the detergent drawer & it's slot, since
the water is heated up after it goes through there.


On my machine steam comes out of the drawer. YMMV.


NT


We bought a Hoover washing machine some years ago. We ran it with no
clothes in for the first wash, to ensure that any residues from
manufacture and inspection were washed away. It got so hot that the soap
drawer melted from the steam coming up. I told the shop that I wanted
our money back, as we were not willing to have it replaced and would not
trust a machine that obviously had no functional, independent, safety
cut-out.

SteveW


does it need one?
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On 07/12/2017 09:17, Brian Gaff wrote:
I have to say that for many years after suffering this in an old Service
machine, I now use liquid blob things in with the washing as although one
can clean the trays by removing them its the bit of pipe from there to the
top of the durum where you cannot get at that pongs. People say Calgon or
some other similar products if used from new regularly can help while other
suggest the rot away the innards!
Brian


We put the detergent staright in to the drum and bypass the detergent
tray. I tend to do my own washing and just squirt some washing up liguid
in to the drum, seems to work ok.


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On 08/12/2017 22:57, wrote:
On Friday, 8 December 2017 22:04:22 UTC, Steve Walker wrote:
On 07/12/2017 15:02, tabbypurr wrote:
On Thursday, 7 December 2017 13:00:08 UTC, Adam Funk wrote:
On 2017-12-06, tabbypurr wrote:

Wipe around the soap dispensing area with bleach. Put it in the
drawer if the machine is bleach compatible, not all are. A monthly
boiling hot wash really helps, alternately with a tb of citric acid
or washing soda. If not bleachable, doses of some other bleach
killer down the chute would help. Also clean the folds of the door
rubber, that tends to build up lots of mould.

Just remembered the bit about the "boiling hot wash". I don't think
that will have much effect on the detergent drawer & it's slot, since
the water is heated up after it goes through there.

On my machine steam comes out of the drawer. YMMV.


NT


We bought a Hoover washing machine some years ago. We ran it with no
clothes in for the first wash, to ensure that any residues from
manufacture and inspection were washed away. It got so hot that the soap
drawer melted from the steam coming up. I told the shop that I wanted
our money back, as we were not willing to have it replaced and would not
trust a machine that obviously had no functional, independent, safety
cut-out.

SteveW


does it need one?


Yes. If, as was demontrated, the machine's microprocessor control can
fail in such as way as to stall the program while leaving the heater
turned on, so that the machine can get hot enough to boil the water and
continue to do so. There should be a simple, mechanical, overtemperature
cut-off!

SteveW
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On Saturday, 9 December 2017 00:14:35 UTC, Steve Walker wrote:
On 08/12/2017 22:57, tabbypurr wrote:
On Friday, 8 December 2017 22:04:22 UTC, Steve Walker wrote:
On 07/12/2017 15:02, tabbypurr wrote:


On my machine steam comes out of the drawer. YMMV.

We bought a Hoover washing machine some years ago. We ran it with no
clothes in for the first wash, to ensure that any residues from
manufacture and inspection were washed away. It got so hot that the soap
drawer melted from the steam coming up. I told the shop that I wanted
our money back, as we were not willing to have it replaced and would not
trust a machine that obviously had no functional, independent, safety
cut-out.

SteveW


does it need one?


Yes. If, as was demontrated, the machine's microprocessor control can
fail in such as way as to stall the program while leaving the heater
turned on, so that the machine can get hot enough to boil the water and
continue to do so.


We know that, it's kinda obvious. The question was does it need an overheat cutout.

There should be a simple, mechanical, overtemperature
cut-off!

SteveW

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On 09/12/2017 00:49, wrote:
On Saturday, 9 December 2017 00:14:35 UTC, Steve Walker wrote:
On 08/12/2017 22:57, tabbypurr wrote:
On Friday, 8 December 2017 22:04:22 UTC, Steve Walker wrote:
On 07/12/2017 15:02, tabbypurr wrote:


On my machine steam comes out of the drawer. YMMV.

We bought a Hoover washing machine some years ago. We ran it with no
clothes in for the first wash, to ensure that any residues from
manufacture and inspection were washed away. It got so hot that the soap
drawer melted from the steam coming up. I told the shop that I wanted
our money back, as we were not willing to have it replaced and would not
trust a machine that obviously had no functional, independent, safety
cut-out.

SteveW

does it need one?


Yes. If, as was demontrated, the machine's microprocessor control can
fail in such as way as to stall the program while leaving the heater
turned on, so that the machine can get hot enough to boil the water and
continue to do so.


We know that, it's kinda obvious. The question was does it need an overheat cutout.


Er, am I missing something here? It was the lack of such a functioning
overheat cutout that I referred to in my original post. You've then
asked "does it need one?" and I have stated yes and why. Now you've
stated that that is "kinda obvious" and then asked "does it need an
overheat cutout?"

There should be a simple, mechanical, overtemperature
cut-off!

SteveW


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On 06/12/2017 20:18, JoeJoe wrote:
We have a 4 year old Samsung washing machine (Eco Bubble Quiet Drive
WF0804W8E I think it is called). It has been used every couple of days
or so since new without any problem.
When we came back from a 2 week holiday away in October I noticed quite
a bad mouldy smell coming from its direction. I removed the dispenser
tray and found that behind its housing was mouldy and black. I cleaned
the area as best as I could and then ran the machine on max temperature
on empty. I also cleaner the filter.
Unfortunately the smell is still there and it seems to come from inside
the hole into which the detergent and conditioner are fed into the
machine. I hope that makes sense, but I put a couple of photos here just
in case:
http://tinypic.com/r/10gwoit/9
http://tinypic.com/r/ilhhyo/9

(note that the black marks in the photos have been thoroughly scraped
and would simply not go away).

Any idea what do do to resolve this?

I think that it came with 5 year warranty, so I can try that, but am
hoping that it is something simple€¦



Quick update: Samsung are sending someone to have a look at it next week.
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On Saturday, 9 December 2017 15:27:47 UTC, Steve Walker wrote:
On 09/12/2017 00:49, tabbypurr wrote:
On Saturday, 9 December 2017 00:14:35 UTC, Steve Walker wrote:
On 08/12/2017 22:57, tabbypurr wrote:
On Friday, 8 December 2017 22:04:22 UTC, Steve Walker wrote:
On 07/12/2017 15:02, tabbypurr wrote:


On my machine steam comes out of the drawer. YMMV.

We bought a Hoover washing machine some years ago. We ran it with no
clothes in for the first wash, to ensure that any residues from
manufacture and inspection were washed away. It got so hot that the soap
drawer melted from the steam coming up. I told the shop that I wanted
our money back, as we were not willing to have it replaced and would not
trust a machine that obviously had no functional, independent, safety
cut-out.

SteveW

does it need one?

Yes. If, as was demontrated, the machine's microprocessor control can
fail in such as way as to stall the program while leaving the heater
turned on, so that the machine can get hot enough to boil the water and
continue to do so.


We know that, it's kinda obvious. The question was does it need an overheat cutout.


Er, am I missing something here? It was the lack of such a functioning
overheat cutout that I referred to in my original post. You've then
asked "does it need one?" and I have stated yes and why. Now you've
stated that that is "kinda obvious" and then asked "does it need an
overheat cutout?"

There should be a simple, mechanical, overtemperature
cut-off!

SteveW


I can see you're not following this. It sounds like the engineers that designed it knew what they were doing.


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On 09/12/2017 17:53, wrote:
On Saturday, 9 December 2017 15:27:47 UTC, Steve Walker wrote:
On 09/12/2017 00:49, tabbypurr wrote:
On Saturday, 9 December 2017 00:14:35 UTC, Steve Walker wrote:
On 08/12/2017 22:57, tabbypurr wrote:
On Friday, 8 December 2017 22:04:22 UTC, Steve Walker wrote:
On 07/12/2017 15:02, tabbypurr wrote:

On my machine steam comes out of the drawer. YMMV.

We bought a Hoover washing machine some years ago. We ran it with no
clothes in for the first wash, to ensure that any residues from
manufacture and inspection were washed away. It got so hot that the soap
drawer melted from the steam coming up. I told the shop that I wanted
our money back, as we were not willing to have it replaced and would not
trust a machine that obviously had no functional, independent, safety
cut-out.

SteveW

does it need one?

Yes. If, as was demontrated, the machine's microprocessor control can
fail in such as way as to stall the program while leaving the heater
turned on, so that the machine can get hot enough to boil the water and
continue to do so.

We know that, it's kinda obvious. The question was does it need an overheat cutout.


Er, am I missing something here? It was the lack of such a functioning
overheat cutout that I referred to in my original post. You've then
asked "does it need one?" and I have stated yes and why. Now you've
stated that that is "kinda obvious" and then asked "does it need an
overheat cutout?"

There should be a simple, mechanical, overtemperature
cut-off!

SteveW


I can see you're not following this. It sounds like the engineers that designed it knew what they were doing.


How did they kwow what they were doing, when on the first wash cycle it
malfunctioned, overheated and melted the soap drawer? The lack of a
safety cutout (or the failure of it to work) meant that it sat there
boiling, without cutting off. Who knows what it would have done if I
hadn't unplugged it and prevented it boiling dry?

SteveW
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On 06/12/2017 20:18, JoeJoe wrote:
We have a 4 year old Samsung washing machine (Eco Bubble Quiet Drive
WF0804W8E I think it is called). It has been used every couple of days
or so since new without any problem.
When we came back from a 2 week holiday away in October I noticed quite
a bad mouldy smell coming from its direction. I removed the dispenser
tray and found that behind its housing was mouldy and black. I cleaned
the area as best as I could and then ran the machine on max temperature
on empty. I also cleaner the filter.
Unfortunately the smell is still there and it seems to come from inside
the hole into which the detergent and conditioner are fed into the
machine. I hope that makes sense, but I put a couple of photos here just
in case:
http://tinypic.com/r/10gwoit/9
http://tinypic.com/r/ilhhyo/9

(note that the black marks in the photos have been thoroughly scraped
and would simply not go away).

Any idea what do do to resolve this?

I think that it came with 5 year warranty, so I can try that, but am
hoping that it is something simple€¦



That kind of mould is common in areas which are damp.

You could try cleaning off what you can (which you may have done
already) then spray with one of the products sold to kill mould in
bathrooms etc. Be generous, leave to 'soak'. Repeat and run the machine
empty on a hot wash.

Also, check the drain hose - they can get clogged with a 'slurry'*,
especially if you use fluid rather than poweder. Ditto the actual drain
arrangement- where the hose goes to the waste pipe.

Leave the detergent door open after use and the main (drum) door until
things dry off.

I doubt your problem will be covered by the warranty.

*the slurry is formed from body oil, excess detergent, and chalk- it is
worse in hard water areas.

--

Suspect someone is claiming a benefit under false pretences? Incapacity
Benefit or Personal Independence Payment when they don't need it? They
are depriving those in real need!

https://www.gov.uk/report-benefit-fraud
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Default Bad smell from washing machine

On 08/12/17 08:11, Chris Hogg wrote:

IIRC HG mould remover spray contains bleach.

Which is what I said in my post. But its effects last much longer than
ordinary bleach IME, so I think there's also a persistent fungicide in
there as well. But how it would perform in the detergent tray of a
washing machine, that gets frequently flushed, I've no idea.


The application of HG Mould Spray is almost as controversial as the use
of WD40. Magic stuff IMO, it brings up my shower wall grout nicely white.

From http://www.dehumidifier-reviews.co.u...d-spray-review

"We managed to get a hold of this closely-guarded list of main chemical
compounds that make up the formula, and they include:

Water

No surprises here.

Sodium hypochlorite (roughly 3% concentration)

Otherwise known as liquid bleach.

Sodium hydroxide (roughly 1% concentration)

A corrosive, alkaline compound often used as an industrial cleaning agent."

MDS
https://www.homecareessentials.co.uk...spray_5.07.pdf


Hmmm, There is something German industrial looking, sold in Aldi/Lidl,
that I should try sometime.

--
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On Sunday, 10 December 2017 00:41:11 UTC, Adrian Caspersz wrote:
On 08/12/17 08:11, Chris Hogg wrote:

IIRC HG mould remover spray contains bleach.

Which is what I said in my post. But its effects last much longer than
ordinary bleach IME, so I think there's also a persistent fungicide in
there as well. But how it would perform in the detergent tray of a
washing machine, that gets frequently flushed, I've no idea.


The application of HG Mould Spray is almost as controversial as the use
of WD40. Magic stuff IMO, it brings up my shower wall grout nicely white.


yes cos it's bleach

From http://www.dehumidifier-reviews.co.u...d-spray-review

"We managed to get a hold of this closely-guarded list of main chemical
compounds that make up the formula, and they include:

Water

No surprises here.

Sodium hypochlorite (roughly 3% concentration)

Otherwise known as liquid bleach.

Sodium hydroxide (roughly 1% concentration)

A corrosive, alkaline compound often used as an industrial cleaning agent."

MDS
https://www.homecareessentials.co.uk...spray_5.07.pdf


so to sum up, it's bleach.


Hmmm, There is something German industrial looking, sold in Aldi/Lidl,
that I should try sometime.


Yes, if you want to waste your money. It's weird how most folk do.


NT


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On 10/12/17 03:54, wrote:
On Sunday, 10 December 2017 00:41:11 UTC, Adrian Caspersz wrote:
MDS
https://www.homecareessentials.co.uk...spray_5.07.pdf

so to sum up, it's bleach.
Hmmm, There is something German industrial looking, sold in Aldi/Lidl,
that I should try sometime.


Yes, if you want to waste your money. It's weird how most folk do.


Plain bleach works but needs constant reapplying.

Yup, it's a bit of a WD40 thing ....

--
Adrian C
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On Sunday, 10 December 2017 15:24:49 UTC, Adrian Caspersz wrote:
On 10/12/17 03:54, tabbypurr wrote:
On Sunday, 10 December 2017 00:41:11 UTC, Adrian Caspersz wrote:
MDS
https://www.homecareessentials.co.uk...spray_5.07.pdf


so to sum up, it's bleach.
Hmmm, There is something German industrial looking, sold in Aldi/Lidl,
that I should try sometime.


Yes, if you want to waste your money. It's weird how most folk do.


Plain bleach works but needs constant reapplying.

Yup, it's a bit of a WD40 thing ....


it doesn't IME.
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"Steve Walker" wrote in message
news
On 09/12/2017 00:49, wrote:
On Saturday, 9 December 2017 00:14:35 UTC, Steve Walker wrote:
On 08/12/2017 22:57, tabbypurr wrote:
On Friday, 8 December 2017 22:04:22 UTC, Steve Walker wrote:
On 07/12/2017 15:02, tabbypurr wrote:


On my machine steam comes out of the drawer. YMMV.

We bought a Hoover washing machine some years ago. We ran it with no
clothes in for the first wash, to ensure that any residues from
manufacture and inspection were washed away. It got so hot that the
soap
drawer melted from the steam coming up. I told the shop that I wanted
our money back, as we were not willing to have it replaced and would
not
trust a machine that obviously had no functional, independent, safety
cut-out.

SteveW

does it need one?

Yes. If, as was demontrated, the machine's microprocessor control can
fail in such as way as to stall the program while leaving the heater
turned on, so that the machine can get hot enough to boil the water and
continue to do so.


We know that, it's kinda obvious. The question was does it need an
overheat cutout.


Er, am I missing something here?


Yep, that its a terminal ****wit.

It was the lack of such a functioning overheat cutout that I referred to
in my original post. You've then asked "does it need one?" and I have
stated yes and why. Now you've stated that that is "kinda obvious" and
then asked "does it need an overheat cutout?"


See above.

There should be a simple, mechanical, overtemperature
cut-off!



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On Sat, 9 Dec 2017 19:54:46 -0800 (PST)
wrote:

MDS
https://www.homecareessentials.co.uk...spray_5.07.pdf

so to sum up, it's bleach.

And caustic soda (sodium hydroxide) a precursor of sodium hypochlorite,
also useful as a cleaner, and available cheaply £2 for 500g in Wilko.
(B&Q website claims to sell it for half that, but none of the nearby
stores have stock).

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On Monday, 11 December 2017 14:29:11 UTC, Rob Morley wrote:
On Sat, 9 Dec 2017 19:54:46 -0800 (PST)
tabbypurr wrote:

MDS
https://www.homecareessentials.co.uk...spray_5.07.pdf


so to sum up, it's bleach.

And caustic soda (sodium hydroxide) a precursor of sodium hypochlorite,
also useful as a cleaner, and available cheaply £2 for 500g in Wilko..
(B&Q website claims to sell it for half that, but none of the nearby
stores have stock).


I thought that was present in household bleach.


NT


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On 2017-12-11, wrote:

On Monday, 11 December 2017 14:29:11 UTC, Rob Morley wrote:
On Sat, 9 Dec 2017 19:54:46 -0800 (PST)
tabbypurr wrote:

MDS
https://www.homecareessentials.co.uk...spray_5.07.pdf

so to sum up, it's bleach.

And caustic soda (sodium hydroxide) a precursor of sodium hypochlorite,
also useful as a cleaner, and available cheaply £2 for 500g in Wilko.
(B&Q website claims to sell it for half that, but none of the nearby
stores have stock).


I thought that was present in household bleach.


IIRC chlorine bleach has sodium hypochlorite as the active ingredient
& a small amount of something cheap & alkaline (typically sodium
hydroxide) just to make it more stable.
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On 11/12/2017 21:42, Adam Funk wrote:
On 2017-12-11, wrote:

On Monday, 11 December 2017 14:29:11 UTC, Rob Morley wrote:
On Sat, 9 Dec 2017 19:54:46 -0800 (PST)
tabbypurr wrote:

MDS
https://www.homecareessentials.co.uk...spray_5.07.pdf

so to sum up, it's bleach.

And caustic soda (sodium hydroxide) a precursor of sodium hypochlorite,
also useful as a cleaner, and available cheaply £2 for 500g in Wilko.
(B&Q website claims to sell it for half that, but none of the nearby
stores have stock).


I thought that was present in household bleach.


IIRC chlorine bleach has sodium hypochlorite as the active ingredient
& a small amount of something cheap & alkaline (typically sodium
hydroxide) just to make it more stable.


"Pure" liquid bleach (like Milton) contains a small amount of sodium
chloride, but that's just a bi-product of manufacture - it's made by
passing chlorine gas through sodium hydroxide (caustic soda). Ordinary
domestic bleach (as in bog cleaner) contains "surfactants" (whatever
they are - I think they are a kind of detergent), perfume, whatever
makes it thick so it sticks to the side of the bowl...

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On Monday, 11 December 2017 22:57:46 UTC, Max Demian wrote:
On 11/12/2017 21:42, Adam Funk wrote:
On 2017-12-11, tabbypurr wrote:
On Monday, 11 December 2017 14:29:11 UTC, Rob Morley wrote:
On Sat, 9 Dec 2017 19:54:46 -0800 (PST)
tabbypurr wrote:



MDS
https://www.homecareessentials.co.uk...pray_5..07.pdf

so to sum up, it's bleach.

And caustic soda (sodium hydroxide) a precursor of sodium hypochlorite,
also useful as a cleaner, and available cheaply £2 for 500g in Wilko.
(B&Q website claims to sell it for half that, but none of the nearby
stores have stock).

I thought that was present in household bleach.


IIRC chlorine bleach has sodium hypochlorite as the active ingredient
& a small amount of something cheap & alkaline (typically sodium
hydroxide) just to make it more stable.


"Pure" liquid bleach (like Milton) contains a small amount of sodium
chloride, but that's just a bi-product of manufacture - it's made by
passing chlorine gas through sodium hydroxide (caustic soda). Ordinary
domestic bleach (as in bog cleaner) contains "surfactants" (whatever
they are - I think they are a kind of detergent), perfume, whatever
makes it thick so it sticks to the side of the bowl...


that's thickened bleach, not just bleach.
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On 11/12/2017 23:00, Huge wrote:
On 2017-12-11, Max Demian wrote:

[25 lines snipped]

Ordinary
domestic bleach (as in bog cleaner) contains "surfactants" (whatever
they are - I think they are a kind of detergent)


That's exactly what they are. And not a "kind of" - they *are* detergent.


So what's the difference between anionic and cationic surfactants?

--
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