In article ,
John Rumm wrote:
On 07/11/2016 17:44, Andy Burns wrote:
Brian Gaff wrote:

never been convinced that Halogen are anything but
unreliable current and tend to cook the sockets as well

Thought they weren't good for dimmers, 1) you might not make much power
saving by dimming them and 2) if you run them too cool the halogens will
"coat" the inside of the capsule with silvery deposits?

The halogen cycle requires the envelope run hot enough to work, but a
small amount of (visible) dimming does not drop the power dissipation
that much.

In theatres halogen lamps have been used for many years and are regularly
dimmed.

--
from KT24 in Surrey, England

In article ,
Andy Burns wrote:
Brian Gaff wrote:

never been convinced that Halogen are anything but
unreliable current and tend to cook the sockets as well

Thought they weren't good for dimmers, 1) you might not make much power
saving by dimming them and 2) if you run them too cool the halogens will
"coat" the inside of the capsule with silvery deposits?

I've often heard that one. I have halogens in the kitchen which are
frequently on for long periods dimmed, and never had a problem.

They are fairly unusual lamps - R80 - which are like a smaller PAP38. With
the usual halogen capsule within a large glass envelope.

--
*CAN VEGETARIANS EAT ANIMAL CRACKERS?

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article ,
Brian Gaff wrote:
Would this not make them flicker a bit?

No. The filament doesn't cool quickly enough.

--
*Happiness is seeing your mother-in-law on a milk carton

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article ,
wrote:
On Monday, 7 November 2016 20:06:12 UTC, Archibald Tarquin Blenkinsopp wrote:

Incidentally another trick was a "wattless dropper" . I doubt that the
capacitor would fit in the switch box though. One could of course bung
it in a jam jar on a small shelf by the side of the switch.

We have our witless dripper here, Mr Rodney. If only he fitted in a
jamjar.

Another option not mentioned is to switch only 3 of the bulbs on at
once. One seldom seems such a setup now.

Because to most it looks like half of them have failed. ;-)

You don't buy a chandelier for the light it gives, but for the looks.


NT

--
*Money isn‘t everything, but it sure keeps the kids in touch

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Harry Bloomfield wrote:
David laid this down on his screen :
I don't want to go down the LED filament route at this point as I'm
not rich enough.

Take a look in the Pound shops, they are selling low wattage SES lamps
for a pound each. I have no idea of the ability to last, or quality,
just that I noticed they sell what you need.
Daffodil or tulips? our tech teacher said lamps not bulbs!

On Monday, 7 November 2016 22:39:09 UTC, John Rumm wrote:
On 07/11/2016 15:45, David wrote:
On Monday, November 7, 2016 at 3:34:16 PM UTC, Brian Gaff wrote:

Well one thought occurred to me. Hide a patress box with a dimmer in it
above the lighting itself, adjust to suit and leave it on and set, using the
normal switch for the on and off.

Arrgghh - too late. Loft insulated and boarded...

Include a single rectifier diode in the switched live. That will run the
filament lamps half wave rectified - much lower brightness.

No good, it'll flicker heavily. You need thick filaments to do that, eg 110v 100w.

You could run 3 lamps on one diode, 3 on another so the flicker pretty much cancels.


NT

On Monday, 7 November 2016 22:45:08 UTC, John Rumm wrote:
On 07/11/2016 17:44, Andy Burns wrote:
Brian Gaff wrote:

never been convinced that Halogen are anything but
unreliable current and tend to cook the sockets as well

Thought they weren't good for dimmers, 1) you might not make much power
saving by dimming them and 2) if you run them too cool the halogens will
"coat" the inside of the capsule with silvery deposits?

The halogen cycle requires the envelope run hot enough to work, but a
small amount of (visible) dimming does not drop the power dissipation
that much.

The halogen cycle isn't needed if you dim it enough that it doesn't work.


NT

En el artículo ,
escribió:

We have our witless dripper here, Mr Rodney. If only he fitted in a jamjar.

Angle grinder, then a liqiuidiser.

--
(\_/)
(='.'=) systemd: the Linux version of Windows 10
(")_(")

In article ,
wrote:
Include a single rectifier diode in the switched live. That will run
the filament lamps half wave rectified - much lower brightness.

No good, it'll flicker heavily. You need thick filaments to do that, eg
110v 100w.

There's never been any noticeable flicker when I've done this with
tungsten. I wouldn't have recommended it if there was. Although I've
generally used it with larger than 35 watt lamps.

--
*Beauty is in the eye of the beer holder...

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

David pretended :
Thanks. The dimmer switch was mentioned and is a good idea. The only
reservation was that I remember them as a knob with push for on and off and
turn for brightness. Is there such a thing as a "normal" switch with a
variable setting for brightness??

Dimmers are not a very efficient way to run ordinary lamps and
especially halogen lamps. Light output drops markedly as a larger
proportion of the power goes to producing heat. Halogen lamps can be
blackened by the use of a dimmer.

You can get dimmers which fit inline and are operated by a remote
control. LED's can be dimmed, but they have to be a variety designed to
work with a dimmer.

Dave Plowman (News) submitted this idea :
There's never been any noticeable flicker when I've done this with
tungsten. I wouldn't have recommended it if there was. Although I've
generally used it with larger than 35 watt lamps.

You could replace a one gang switch with a two gang, using one for
on/off, the second for bright /dim with a diode.

Dave Plowman (News) explained on 07/11/2016 :
Halogen replacements for the older tungsten are common these days. They
are easy to see (as it were) as usually contain the halogen capsule within
and ordinary glass envelope. Needed as the filament runs much hotter.
They consume less current than the equivalent tungsten hence 'allowed'. So
no reason they would 'cook' the socket, as being more efficient must
produce less heat.

They are more efficient, they produce a higher proportion of light than
heat when compared to ordinary lamps, but they do run very hot indeed -
the heat generated in a much smaller package less able to dispose of
the heat.

My experience of them is that the heat can oxidise the pins, the oxide
on the pins then damages the sockets.

I have around a dozen 10w halogen lamps in my caravan - all of them
have suffered some degree of damage due oxidisation of the pins.

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In ,
wrote:

Anyway, I have just put up a new six-bulb ceiling lamp on the landing
(reasons of design - I am just the labourer). It has six ses halogen
clear candle 18w bulbs. That's 108w or 138w equivalent. It's a bit too
bright. Does anyone know if I can get an ses clear candle filament (pref
halogen) bulb with a lower wattage than 18w? I don't want to go down
the LED filament route at this point as I'm not rich enough.


Stick a diode in series with the fitting. That will take the edge of the
output. LED candle lights are about 5 times the price of halogen. I dunno
halogen candle lamps but if anything like the older tungsten variety
you'll get very used to fitting new ones.


I bought some led candle lamps from china for just above a
pound each. To replace night light bulbs E11? They had leaf construction
and have performed well.

In article ,
Harry Bloomfield wrote:
David pretended :
Thanks. The dimmer switch was mentioned and is a good idea. The only
reservation was that I remember them as a knob with push for on and
off and turn for brightness. Is there such a thing as a "normal"
switch with a variable setting for brightness??

Dimmers are not a very efficient way to run ordinary lamps and
especially halogen lamps. Light output drops markedly as a larger
proportion of the power goes to producing heat.

True. However, if a light is too bright it reduces that output. It may
reduce the paper efficiency - but it doesn't cost you more in electricity.
If you are concerned about the very best working light for your penny,
change to a more efficient method of providing that light. But the problem
is (as in the OP's case) some want the device producing the light to be
attractive too.


Halogen lamps can be
blackened by the use of a dimmer.

I've read this many times and it simply doesn't happen here - with lots of
assorted halogen on dimmers. Only time I've seen blackened halogen bulbs
is in a car headlight. And I've no explanation as to why. Car headlights
are near always run with the voltage at near the 'correct' value. Very few
would run them for long with the engine stopped, so voltage below about
13.5v.

You can get dimmers which fit inline and are operated by a remote
control. LED's can be dimmed, but they have to be a variety designed to
work with a dimmer.

And the dimmer has to be trailing edge.

--
*A conclusion is the place where you got tired of thinking *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article ,
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Harry Bloomfield wrote:
David pretended :
Thanks. The dimmer switch was mentioned and is a good idea. The only
reservation was that I remember them as a knob with push for on and
off and turn for brightness. Is there such a thing as a "normal"
switch with a variable setting for brightness??

Dimmers are not a very efficient way to run ordinary lamps and
especially halogen lamps. Light output drops markedly as a larger
proportion of the power goes to producing heat.

True. However, if a light is too bright it reduces that output. It may
reduce the paper efficiency - but it doesn't cost you more in electricity.
If you are concerned about the very best working light for your penny,
change to a more efficient method of providing that light. But the problem
is (as in the OP's case) some want the device producing the light to be
attractive too.


Halogen lamps can be
blackened by the use of a dimmer.

I've read this many times and it simply doesn't happen here - with lots of
assorted halogen on dimmers. Only time I've seen blackened halogen bulbs
is in a car headlight. And I've no explanation as to why. Car headlights
are near always run with the voltage at near the 'correct' value. Very few
would run them for long with the engine stopped, so voltage below about
13.5v.

There used to a function called "DimDip" which seriously reduced the
voltage to headlights so that they could be used as running lights. As
halogen lamps came in DimDip was dropped because of the blackening problem.
In the theatre, lamps tended to die becasue, in general, from handling
problems rather tha partial blackening due to lower voltage.

--
from KT24 in Surrey, England

On Monday, 7 November 2016 19:53:32 UTC, Rod Speed wrote:
whisky-dave wrote
David wrote

Now I think about it, the bulb problem and the dimmer switch
issue could be related. You could use the same (dimmable)
bulb throughout the house with pre-set dimmer switches.

Anyone think there's a market for a normal-looking
light switch with a dimmer pre-set adjusted with a
small control (screwdriver slot?) on the face of the switch?

Nah wait for the IoT version then you can set it via a phone while in
another country :-)

Not as silly as it sounds actually.

It wasn't meant to be silly but what's happening.

Once you have bulbs that can be switched
on and off using the phone, and have the color anything you want set by
the phone app, doesnt cost any more to have the dimming done that way too.

Yep even smart kettles are availible for under 100 UKPs.


And to have it programmed with different configs for say when watching TV
or cleaning the room at night, or to make the house look occupied why away
etc.

Yes lots of things have the possibility of IoT hopefully it'll be usefull things first, then I'll have to buy a smartphone.


And with sensors so most of the time it switches automatically as you come
into the room and off when you leave the room for long enough too.

Corse dinosaurs like you will just sneer and keep furiously flicking
switches...

Not me here were developing IoT not merely using off the shelf products.

On Tuesday, November 8, 2016 at 4:22:26 AM UTC, F Murtz wrote:
Daffodil or tulips? our tech teacher said lamps not bulbs!
Strangely enough - our woodwork teacher:
Pupil: Can I go to the toilet?
Mr Sutton: I don't know, can you?

On 08/11/16 14:14, David wrote:
On Tuesday, November 8, 2016 at 4:22:26 AM UTC, F Murtz wrote:
Daffodil or tulips? our tech teacher said lamps not bulbs!
Strangely enough - our woodwork teacher:
Pupil: Can I go to the toilet?
Mr Sutton: I don't know, can you?

Correct response.

"You have legs and an arsehole, and look a bit of a dick, so I guess
that's why you are asking?"


--
Canada is all right really, though not for the whole weekend.

"Saki"

In article ,
Harry Bloomfield wrote:
Dave Plowman (News) explained on 07/11/2016 :
Halogen replacements for the older tungsten are common these days.
They are easy to see (as it were) as usually contain the halogen
capsule within and ordinary glass envelope. Needed as the filament
runs much hotter. They consume less current than the equivalent
tungsten hence 'allowed'. So no reason they would 'cook' the socket,
as being more efficient must produce less heat.

They are more efficient, they produce a higher proportion of light than
heat when compared to ordinary lamps, but they do run very hot indeed -
the heat generated in a much smaller package less able to dispose of
the heat.

I was talking about halogen GLS replacements. Look much the same as GLS -
apart from the internals. The equivalent to an old 100w GLS is said to be
a 70w halogen - so not really sure how that could produce more heat?

https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_In...ena/index.html

My experience of them is that the heat can oxidise the pins, the oxide
on the pins then damages the sockets.

I have around a dozen 10w halogen lamps in my caravan - all of them
have suffered some degree of damage due oxidisation of the pins.

Yehbut that's just poor design. Nothing to do with being halogen or not.
Cars have had very small high powered halogen lamps for years. But with a
properly designed connector.

--
*How does Moses make his tea? Hebrews it.*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article ,
whisky-dave wrote:
Once you have bulbs that can be switched on and off using the phone,
and have the color anything you want set by the phone app, doesn‘t
cost any more to have the dimming done that way too.

Yep even smart kettles are availible for under 100 UKPs.

It's an excellent idea. You stay outside in the cold fiddling with your
phone to make sure the kettle has just boiled when you get indoors. Let's
just hope you remembered to switch on your heating too - before getting
home.

I've heard of smart toasters too. You put the bread in before you go to
work and have beautiful stale bread toast waiting for you when you get
home at night. Assuming a mouse hasn't eaten it first. After fiddling
with your phone outside in the cold.

What I need is an app. which can take the dirty clothes from the basket
and put them in the machine before switching it on. And an app to do the
ironing - even better.

I must be the odd one here. I'd have thought of all those ideas ages ago
if I saw any merit in them. Not have to be 'sold' them by a TV ad.

--
*Wood burns faster when you have to cut and chop it yourself.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On 08/11/2016 14:33, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

snip

What I need is an app. which can take the dirty clothes from the basket
and put them in the machine before switching it on. And an app to do the
ironing - even better.

I have an automated system for that. I'm not sure how it works, but you
just put the clothes in a basket and everything gets sorted. It broke
down last year while the missus was away for a few days, but it seemed
to fix itself before I had to call someone out.

Cheers
--
Syd

charles expressed precisely :
In article ,
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Harry Bloomfield wrote:
David pretended :
Thanks. The dimmer switch was mentioned and is a good idea. The only
reservation was that I remember them as a knob with push for on and
off and turn for brightness. Is there such a thing as a "normal"
switch with a variable setting for brightness??

Dimmers are not a very efficient way to run ordinary lamps and
especially halogen lamps. Light output drops markedly as a larger
proportion of the power goes to producing heat.

True. However, if a light is too bright it reduces that output. It may
reduce the paper efficiency - but it doesn't cost you more in electricity.
If you are concerned about the very best working light for your penny,
change to a more efficient method of providing that light. But the problem
is (as in the OP's case) some want the device producing the light to be
attractive too.


Halogen lamps can be
blackened by the use of a dimmer.

I've read this many times and it simply doesn't happen here - with lots of
assorted halogen on dimmers. Only time I've seen blackened halogen bulbs
is in a car headlight. And I've no explanation as to why. Car headlights
are near always run with the voltage at near the 'correct' value. Very few
would run them for long with the engine stopped, so voltage below about
13.5v.

There used to a function called "DimDip" which seriously reduced the
voltage to headlights so that they could be used as running lights. As
halogen lamps came in DimDip was dropped because of the blackening problem.
In the theatre, lamps tended to die becasue, in general, from handling
problems rather tha partial blackening due to lower voltage.

That is not what I read - I read that it was dropped because the EU
would not accept it. One of my cars had it and it was perfect for use
in built up areas, where dipped tended to blind both pedestrians and
other drivers, to what was behind you/me.

Dave Plowman (News) explained on 08/11/2016 :
Yehbut that's just poor design. Nothing to do with being halogen or not.
Cars have had very small high powered halogen lamps for years. But with a
properly designed connector.

I agree, I have never had an issue with car halogen lamps.

On Tuesday, 8 November 2016 14:43:47 UTC, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
whisky-dave wrote:
Once you have bulbs that can be switched on and off using the phone,
and have the color anything you want set by the phone app, doesn€˜t
cost any more to have the dimming done that way too.

Yep even smart kettles are availible for under 100 UKPs.

It's an excellent idea. You stay outside in the cold fiddling with your
phone to make sure the kettle has just boiled when you get indoors. Let's
just hope you remembered to switch on your heating too - before getting
home.

You could check to see how often and how much you used your kettle.
I guess some peole neber had a use for a kettle that automatically switched itself off or stopped when it had no water in it.
Some prefer old whistling kettles.

Pehaps you can tell me what use a remote is for opening yuor car door or locking it. It;s not likje the remote puts yuo in the car you've still got to manualy open the door.


I've heard of smart toasters too. You put the bread in before you go to
work and have beautiful stale bread toast waiting for you when you get
home at night.

Stale bread is better for toasting well not too stale thgat it has a life of it's own.
But what I see in the future is an app that sets all yuor appliances off after you've loaded them them the phone will sych everything.
You know like people have to do when cooking seting timers goign from one pot to another..... I bet you've never even considered that option in the future.

Any idea why peokle use clocks and timers when cooking as I don't have to.
Only idiots need to have cooking times for difernt products is that it ?



Assuming a mouse hasn't eaten it first. After fiddling
with your phone outside in the cold.

I;ve seen plenty of peole fiddle with car remotes in the cold.


What I need is an app. which can take the dirty clothes from the basket
and put them in the machine before switching it on. And an app to do the
ironing - even better.

It's being worked on , we did a version using a BBC microbit just a demo no real cloths as it was benchtop.


I must be the odd one here.

you are very odd yes glad you realise.

I'd have thought of all those ideas ages ago
if I saw any merit in them. Not have to be 'sold' them by a TV ad.

--
*Wood burns faster when you have to cut and chop it yourself.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article ,
Harry Bloomfield wrote:
Dave Plowman (News) explained on 08/11/2016 :
Yehbut that's just poor design. Nothing to do with being halogen or not.
Cars have had very small high powered halogen lamps for years.

Inded years. My MkIII Cortina - bought new in 1971 - had halogen
headlights. That's 45 years ago!

--
from KT24 in Surrey, England

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ,
whisky-dave wrote:
Once you have bulbs that can be switched on and off using the phone,
and have the color anything you want set by the phone app, doesn't
cost any more to have the dimming done that way too.

Yep even smart kettles are availible for under 100 UKPs.

It's an excellent idea. You stay outside in the cold fiddling with your
phone to make sure the kettle has just boiled when you get indoors. Let's
just hope you remembered to switch on your heating too - before getting
home.

I've heard of smart toasters too. You put the bread in before you go to
work and have beautiful stale bread toast waiting for you when you get
home at night. Assuming a mouse hasn't eaten it first. After fiddling
with your phone outside in the cold.

What I need is an app. which can take the dirty clothes from the basket
and put them in the machine before switching it on. And an app to do the
ironing - even better.

I must be the odd one here.

Yep, you clearly are by far the worst of the mindless lefty****s.

I'd have thought of all those ideas ages ago if I saw any merit in them.

Clearly don't have a funking clue about the advantage of
a complete lighting system that turns the lights on and off
completely automatically as people move around the house
and allow you to indicate when you want to go to sleep if
say you do read in bed etc.

Or if you keep significantly variable hours, allows you to
indicate when you are likely to be coming home so the
house is at the temp you prefer when you get home etc.

"David" wrote in message
...
Y'know, when I was little, we had 60w bayonets and that was it, unless you
decided to go mad and get a 100w bayonet. Now I actually need to have a
written bulb inventory with which
cap/type/wattage/clear/pearl/candle/halogen/cfl/led etc for each room.
Jesus.

Anyway, I have just put up a new six-bulb ceiling lamp on the landing
(reasons of design - I am just the labourer). It has six ses halogen clear
candle 18w bulbs. That's 108w or 138w equivalent. It's a bit too bright.
Does anyone know if I can get an ses clear candle filament (pref halogen)
bulb with a lower wattage than 18w? I don't want to go down the LED
filament route at this point as I'm not rich enough.

In this case Google is not my friend, it is a Moroccan street market trader
who ignores what I say and tries to sell me what it has. "Less than 18w?
Yes my friend, I have! Look! Yes, is 42w. 42w is better! Look it is good
bulb and very cheap!"

All advice welcome. Even the advice to travel back in time and get a lamp
with fewer than six bulbs...

David
----------------------------------------------------------

I wonder if a 12V 5W car bulb could be put in series with the lot, hopefully
dropping less than a safe 13V to run the 6 bulbs by that much less? The bulb
could be mounted to look like it's part of the fixture.

Another idea would be to use a mains to 12V transformer (rated 6W or more),
with its secondary connected in antiphase to the primary live, and your
lamps connected between the free ends of primary and secondary so that they
get 12V less than full mains.
--
Dave W

On Tuesday, 8 November 2016 20:43:13 UTC, Dave W wrote:

I wonder if a 12V 5W car bulb could be put in series with the lot, hopefully
dropping less than a safe 13V to run the 6 bulbs by that much less? The bulb
could be mounted to look like it's part of the fixture.

14v 6w = 0.43A. At 240v that's 103w, so your chandelier consumption needs to be 100w or less.

Another idea would be to use a mains to 12V transformer (rated 6W or more),
with its secondary connected in antiphase to the primary live, and your
lamps connected between the free ends of primary and secondary so that they
get 12V less than full mains.

I've used that trick before to get 3 brightness settings, boost, cut, 240v. Use a 20v transformer. ISTR lamp life dropped to around 300hrs on boost, reducing TCO some, but lamps cost more now thanks to the government's meddling.


NT

On 08/11/2016 12:32, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Harry Bloomfield wrote:
David pretended :
Thanks. The dimmer switch was mentioned and is a good idea. The only
reservation was that I remember them as a knob with push for on and
off and turn for brightness. Is there such a thing as a "normal"
switch with a variable setting for brightness??

Dimmers are not a very efficient way to run ordinary lamps and
especially halogen lamps. Light output drops markedly as a larger
proportion of the power goes to producing heat.

True. However, if a light is too bright it reduces that output. It may
reduce the paper efficiency - but it doesn't cost you more in electricity.
If you are concerned about the very best working light for your penny,
change to a more efficient method of providing that light. But the problem
is (as in the OP's case) some want the device producing the light to be
attractive too.


Halogen lamps can be
blackened by the use of a dimmer.

I've read this many times and it simply doesn't happen here - with lots of
assorted halogen on dimmers. Only time I've seen blackened halogen bulbs
is in a car headlight. And I've no explanation as to why. Car headlights
are near always run with the voltage at near the 'correct' value. Very few
would run them for long with the engine stopped, so voltage below about
13.5v.

You can get dimmers which fit inline and are operated by a remote
control. LED's can be dimmed, but they have to be a variety designed to
work with a dimmer.

And the dimmer has to be trailing edge.



--
mailto: news {at} admac {dot] myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

On 08/11/2016 12:07, Harry Bloomfield wrote:
David pretended :
Thanks. The dimmer switch was mentioned and is a good idea. The only
reservation was that I remember them as a knob with push for on and
off and turn for brightness. Is there such a thing as a "normal"
switch with a variable setting for brightness??

Dimmers are not a very efficient way to run ordinary lamps and
especially halogen lamps. Light output drops markedly as a larger
proportion of the power goes to producing heat. Halogen lamps can be
blackened by the use of a dimmer.


The OP suggested this was a landing light. It may be switched from two
or more positions making the use of a dimmer somewhat more complicated.


--
mailto: news {at} admac {dot] myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

brought next idea :
I wonder if a 12V 5W car bulb could be put in series with the lot,
hopefully
dropping less than a safe 13V to run the 6 bulbs by that much less? The
bulb
could be mounted to look like it's part of the fixture.

14v 6w = 0.43A. At 240v that's 103w, so your chandelier consumption needs to
be 100w or less.

No, the 12v lamp would blow immediately. I have you not heard of Ohms
Law?

alan_m submitted this idea :
The OP suggested this was a landing light. It may be switched from two or
more positions making the use of a dimmer somewhat more complicated.

Though not impossible

On 08/11/2016 21:49, Harry Bloomfield wrote:
brought next idea :
I wonder if a 12V 5W car bulb could be put in series with the lot,
hopefully dropping less than a safe 13V to run the 6 bulbs by that
much less? The bulb could be mounted to look like it's part of the
fixture.

14v 6w = 0.43A. At 240v that's 103w, so your chandelier consumption
needs to be 100w or less.

No, the 12v lamp would blow immediately. I have you not heard of Ohms Law?

In series? Though it's not obvious what would happen as the bulbs warm up.

On Tuesday, 8 November 2016 21:50:01 UTC, Harry Bloomfield wrote:
tabbypurr brought next idea :
Dave W:

I wonder if a 12V 5W car bulb could be put in series with the lot,
hopefully
dropping less than a safe 13V to run the 6 bulbs by that much less? The
bulb
could be mounted to look like it's part of the fixture.

14v 6w = 0.43A. At 240v that's 103w, so your chandelier consumption needs to
be 100w or less.

No, the 12v lamp would blow immediately. I have you not heard of Ohms
Law?

Feel free to offer your reasoning if you have any.


NT

On Tuesday, 8 November 2016 22:17:28 UTC, Clive George wrote:
On 08/11/2016 21:49, Harry Bloomfield wrote:
tabbypurr brought next idea :
I wonder if a 12V 5W car bulb could be put in series with the lot,
hopefully dropping less than a safe 13V to run the 6 bulbs by that
much less? The bulb could be mounted to look like it's part of the
fixture.

14v 6w = 0.43A. At 240v that's 103w, so your chandelier consumption
needs to be 100w or less.

No, the 12v lamp would blow immediately. I have you not heard of Ohms Law?

In series? Though it's not obvious what would happen as the bulbs warm up.

Yes it is.


NT

"Dave W" wrote in message
...

"David" wrote in message
...
Y'know, when I was little, we had 60w bayonets and that was it, unless you
decided to go mad and get a 100w bayonet. Now I actually need to have a
written bulb inventory with which
cap/type/wattage/clear/pearl/candle/halogen/cfl/led etc for each room.
Jesus.

Anyway, I have just put up a new six-bulb ceiling lamp on the landing
(reasons of design - I am just the labourer). It has six ses halogen
clear candle 18w bulbs. That's 108w or 138w equivalent. It's a bit too
bright. Does anyone know if I can get an ses clear candle filament (pref
halogen) bulb with a lower wattage than 18w? I don't want to go down the
LED filament route at this point as I'm not rich enough.

In this case Google is not my friend, it is a Moroccan street market
trader who ignores what I say and tries to sell me what it has. "Less than
18w? Yes my friend, I have! Look! Yes, is 42w. 42w is better! Look it is
good bulb and very cheap!"

All advice welcome. Even the advice to travel back in time and get a lamp
with fewer than six bulbs...
----------------------------------------------------------

I wonder if a 12V 5W car bulb could be put in series with the lot,
hopefully dropping less than a safe 13V to run the 6 bulbs by that much
less? The bulb could be mounted to look like it's part of the fixture.

Unlikely to ever look the same tho.

Another idea would be to use a mains to 12V transformer (rated 6W or
more), with its secondary connected in antiphase to the primary live, and
your lamps connected between the free ends of primary and secondary so
that they get 12V less than full mains.

In article ,
whisky-dave wrote:
It's an excellent idea. You stay outside in the cold fiddling with
your phone to make sure the kettle has just boiled when you get
indoors. Let's just hope you remembered to switch on your heating too
- before getting home.

You could check to see how often and how much you used your kettle.

Excellent idea. I often boil it just for the hell of it. Knowing how often
I do that will cure me of doing such a stupid thing.

--
*Friends help you move. Real friends help you move bodies.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article ,
alan_m wrote:
The OP suggested this was a landing light. It may be switched from two
or more positions making the use of a dimmer somewhat more complicated.

The push on/off types have a two way switch. Depending on make, some don't
dim to extinction, so you would always have at least some light.

--
*Broken pencils are pointless.*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On 09/11/2016 00:43, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
alan_m wrote:
The OP suggested this was a landing light. It may be switched from two
or more positions making the use of a dimmer somewhat more complicated.

The push on/off types have a two way switch. Depending on make, some don't
dim to extinction, so you would always have at least some light.

Maser slave dimmer sets are the better answer for dimming two way
switched lamps. Otherwise you often get stuck at the end without dimming
control when you need to change the brightness.

(we used to have that at our previous place - dimmer on the landing was
nice for low level light for nocturnal trips to the loo etc, but if you
forgot to turn it up again in the morning, next time you switched it on
from the hall, it was as much use a back pocket on a sock).


--
Cheers,

John.

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On 08/11/2016 23:29, Rod Speed wrote:

I wonder if a 12V 5W car bulb could be put in series with the lot,
hopefully dropping less than a safe 13V to run the 6 bulbs by that
much less? The bulb could be mounted to look like it's part of the
fixture.

If you do that then there isn't much point in looking for halogen as
running them at a lower power makes them look like ordinary lamps.
Can you get none halogen lamps instead these days.

Screwfix have some cheap LED ones

http://www.screwfix.com/p/lap-candle...r-ses-2w/3455f

I don't know how many lumen you are getting, these are 210.