Y'know, when I was little, we had 60w bayonets and that was it, unless you decided to go mad and get a 100w bayonet. Now I actually need to have a written bulb inventory with which cap/type/wattage/clear/pearl/candle/halogen/cfl/led etc for each room. Jesus.

Anyway, I have just put up a new six-bulb ceiling lamp on the landing (reasons of design - I am just the labourer). It has six ses halogen clear candle 18w bulbs. That's 108w or 138w equivalent. It's a bit too bright. Does anyone know if I can get an ses clear candle filament (pref halogen) bulb with a lower wattage than 18w? I don't want to go down the LED filament route at this point as I'm not rich enough.

In this case Google is not my friend, it is a Moroccan street market trader who ignores what I say and tries to sell me what it has. "Less than 18w? Yes my friend, I have! Look! Yes, is 42w. 42w is better! Look it is good bulb and very cheap!"

All advice welcome. Even the advice to travel back in time and get a lamp with fewer than six bulbs...

David

David laid this down on his screen :
I don't want to go down the LED filament route at this point as I'm not
rich enough.

Take a look in the Pound shops, they are selling low wattage SES lamps
for a pound each. I have no idea of the ability to last, or quality,
just that I noticed they sell what you need.

In article ,
Harry Bloomfield wrote:
David laid this down on his screen :
I don't want to go down the LED filament route at this point as I'm
not rich enough.

Take a look in the Pound shops, they are selling low wattage SES lamps
for a pound each. I have no idea of the ability to last, or quality,
just that I noticed they sell what you need.

TLC sell low wattage standard tungsten lamps (25w) for 78p each!

--
from KT24 in Surrey, England

On Monday, November 7, 2016 at 2:58:05 PM UTC, Harry Bloomfield wrote:
David laid this down on his screen :
I don't want to go down the LED filament route at this point as I'm not
rich enough.

Take a look in the Pound shops, they are selling low wattage SES lamps
for a pound each. I have no idea of the ability to last, or quality,
just that I noticed they sell what you need.

Thanks - I'll check them out.

Harry Bloomfield wrote:
David laid this down on his screen :
I don't want to go down the LED filament route at this point as I'm
not rich enough.

Take a look in the Pound shops, they are selling low wattage SES lamps
for a pound each. I have no idea of the ability to last, or quality,
just that I noticed they sell what you need.
Daffodil or tulips? our tech teacher said lamps not bulbs!

On Tuesday, November 8, 2016 at 4:22:26 AM UTC, F Murtz wrote:
Daffodil or tulips? our tech teacher said lamps not bulbs!
Strangely enough - our woodwork teacher:
Pupil: Can I go to the toilet?
Mr Sutton: I don't know, can you?

On 08/11/16 14:14, David wrote:
On Tuesday, November 8, 2016 at 4:22:26 AM UTC, F Murtz wrote:
Daffodil or tulips? our tech teacher said lamps not bulbs!
Strangely enough - our woodwork teacher:
Pupil: Can I go to the toilet?
Mr Sutton: I don't know, can you?

Correct response.

"You have legs and an arsehole, and look a bit of a dick, so I guess
that's why you are asking?"


--
Canada is all right really, though not for the whole weekend.

"Saki"

On 08/11/2016 04:22, F Murtz wrote:
Harry Bloomfield wrote:
David laid this down on his screen :
I don't want to go down the LED filament route at this point as I'm
not rich enough.

Take a look in the Pound shops, they are selling low wattage SES lamps
for a pound each. I have no idea of the ability to last, or quality,
just that I noticed they sell what you need.
Daffodil or tulips? our tech teacher said lamps not bulbs!


+1

In article ,
critcher wrote:
On 08/11/2016 04:22, F Murtz wrote:
Harry Bloomfield wrote:
David laid this down on his screen :
I don't want to go down the LED filament route at this point as I'm
not rich enough.

Take a look in the Pound shops, they are selling low wattage SES lamps
for a pound each. I have no idea of the ability to last, or quality,
just that I noticed they sell what you need.
Daffodil or tulips? our tech teacher said lamps not bulbs!


+1

Certainly in film and TV etc you got looked down on by the sparks if you
talked about a 'bulb'.

Snag is domestically most would thing of a fitting when you mention lamp -
like a table lamp. But everyone would know what you meant by a bulb in
that context.

--
*No husband has ever been shot while doing the dishes *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article ,
Harry Bloomfield writes:
David laid this down on his screen :
I don't want to go down the LED filament route at this point as I'm not
rich enough.

Take a look in the Pound shops, they are selling low wattage SES lamps
for a pound each. I have no idea of the ability to last, or quality,
just that I noticed they sell what you need.

I have used quite a number of the Poundland 3W and 5W LEDs.
No failures in the originals.
The more recent ones have not been as reliable.
The 5W ones seems to have vanished since brexit.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

En el artículo , Andrew Gabriel
escribió:

I have used quite a number of the Poundland 3W and 5W LEDs.

Were these the Electrek ones with the white plastic diffuser that gives
a wide spread of light, with the LEDs arranged in a circle?

I can see scorch marks on mine under the diffuser, but they still work.

--
(\_/)
(='.'=) systemd: the Linux version of Windows 10
(")_(")

In article , David
wrote:
Y'know, when I was little, we had 60w bayonets and that was it, unless
you decided to go mad and get a 100w bayonet. Now I actually need to
have a written bulb inventory with which
cap/type/wattage/clear/pearl/candle/halogen/cfl/led etc for each room.
Jesus.

Anyway, I have just put up a new six-bulb ceiling lamp on the landing
(reasons of design - I am just the labourer). It has six ses halogen
clear candle 18w bulbs. That's 108w or 138w equivalent. It's a bit too
bright. Does anyone know if I can get an ses clear candle filament (pref
halogen) bulb with a lower wattage than 18w? I don't want to go down the
LED filament route at this point as I'm not rich enough.

In this case Google is not my friend, it is a Moroccan street market
trader who ignores what I say and tries to sell me what it has. "Less
than 18w? Yes my friend, I have! Look! Yes, is 42w. 42w is better! Look
it is good bulb and very cheap!"

All advice welcome. Even the advice to travel back in time and get a
lamp with fewer than six bulbs..

Fit a dimmer switch.

According to TLC's catalogue, 3w LEDs are 25% brighter than the halogen
ones you have.

--
from KT24 in Surrey, England

On Monday, November 7, 2016 at 2:59:22 PM UTC, charles wrote:
Y'know, when I was little, we had 60w bayonets and that was it, unless
you decided to go mad and get a 100w bayonet. Now I actually need to
have a written bulb inventory with which
cap/type/wattage/clear/pearl/candle/halogen/cfl/led etc for each room.
Jesus.

Anyway, I have just put up a new six-bulb ceiling lamp on the landing
(reasons of design - I am just the labourer). It has six ses halogen
clear candle 18w bulbs. That's 108w or 138w equivalent. It's a bit too
bright. Does anyone know if I can get an ses clear candle filament (pref
halogen) bulb with a lower wattage than 18w? I don't want to go down the
LED filament route at this point as I'm not rich enough.

In this case Google is not my friend, it is a Moroccan street market
trader who ignores what I say and tries to sell me what it has. "Less
than 18w? Yes my friend, I have! Look! Yes, is 42w. 42w is better! Look
it is good bulb and very cheap!"

All advice welcome. Even the advice to travel back in time and get a
lamp with fewer than six bulbs..

Fit a dimmer switch.

According to TLC's catalogue, 3w LEDs are 25% brighter than the halogen
ones you have.

--
from KT24 in Surrey, England

Thanks. The dimmer switch was mentioned and is a good idea. The only reservation was that I remember them as a knob with push for on and off and turn for brightness. Is there such a thing as a "normal" switch with a variable setting for brightness??

Well one thought occurred to me. Hide a patress box with a dimmer in it
above the lighting itself, adjust to suit and leave it on and set, using the
normal switch for the on and off.
Brian

--
----- -
This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

Blind user, so no pictures please!
"David" wrote in message
...
On Monday, November 7, 2016 at 2:59:22 PM UTC, charles wrote:
Y'know, when I was little, we had 60w bayonets and that was it, unless
you decided to go mad and get a 100w bayonet. Now I actually need to
have a written bulb inventory with which
cap/type/wattage/clear/pearl/candle/halogen/cfl/led etc for each room.
Jesus.

Anyway, I have just put up a new six-bulb ceiling lamp on the landing
(reasons of design - I am just the labourer). It has six ses halogen
clear candle 18w bulbs. That's 108w or 138w equivalent. It's a bit
too
bright. Does anyone know if I can get an ses clear candle filament
(pref
halogen) bulb with a lower wattage than 18w? I don't want to go down
the
LED filament route at this point as I'm not rich enough.

In this case Google is not my friend, it is a Moroccan street market
trader who ignores what I say and tries to sell me what it has. "Less
than 18w? Yes my friend, I have! Look! Yes, is 42w. 42w is better!
Look
it is good bulb and very cheap!"

All advice welcome. Even the advice to travel back in time and get a
lamp with fewer than six bulbs..

Fit a dimmer switch.

According to TLC's catalogue, 3w LEDs are 25% brighter than the halogen
ones you have.

--
from KT24 in Surrey, England

Thanks. The dimmer switch was mentioned and is a good idea. The only
reservation was that I remember them as a knob with push for on and off
and turn for brightness. Is there such a thing as a "normal" switch with
a variable setting for brightness??

On Monday, November 7, 2016 at 3:34:16 PM UTC, Brian Gaff wrote:
Well one thought occurred to me. Hide a patress box with a dimmer in it
above the lighting itself, adjust to suit and leave it on and set, using the
normal switch for the on and off.

Arrgghh - too late. Loft insulated and boarded...

Now I think about it, the bulb problem and the dimmer switch issue could be related. You could use the same (dimmable) bulb throughout the house with pre-set dimmer switches.

Anyone think there's a market for a normal-looking light switch with a dimmer pre-set adjusted with a small control (screwdriver slot?) on the face of the switch?

David

On 07/11/2016 15:45, David wrote:
On Monday, November 7, 2016 at 3:34:16 PM UTC, Brian Gaff wrote:
Well one thought occurred to me. Hide a patress box with a dimmer in it
above the lighting itself, adjust to suit and leave it on and set, using the
normal switch for the on and off.

Arrgghh - too late. Loft insulated and boarded...

Include a single rectifier diode in the switched live. That will run the
filament lamps half wave rectified - much lower brightness.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

In article , David
wrote:
On Monday, November 7, 2016 at 2:59:22 PM UTC, charles wrote:
Y'know, when I was little, we had 60w bayonets and that was it,
unless you decided to go mad and get a 100w bayonet. Now I actually
need to have a written bulb inventory with which
cap/type/wattage/clear/pearl/candle/halogen/cfl/led etc for each
room. Jesus.

Anyway, I have just put up a new six-bulb ceiling lamp on the landing
(reasons of design - I am just the labourer). It has six ses halogen
clear candle 18w bulbs. That's 108w or 138w equivalent. It's a bit
too bright. Does anyone know if I can get an ses clear candle
filament (pref halogen) bulb with a lower wattage than 18w? I don't
want to go down the LED filament route at this point as I'm not rich
enough.

In this case Google is not my friend, it is a Moroccan street market
trader who ignores what I say and tries to sell me what it has. "Less
than 18w? Yes my friend, I have! Look! Yes, is 42w. 42w is better!
Look it is good bulb and very cheap!"

All advice welcome. Even the advice to travel back in time and get a
lamp with fewer than six bulbs..

Fit a dimmer switch.

According to TLC's catalogue, 3w LEDs are 25% brighter than the halogen
ones you have.

-- from KT24 in Surrey, England

Thanks. The dimmer switch was mentioned and is a good idea. The only
reservation was that I remember them as a knob with push for on and off
and turn for brightness. Is there such a thing as a "normal" switch with
a variable setting for brightness??

I have one of those, made by MK and fitted by me some 38 years ago - we've
been in this house 39 years. But not made these days.

What you could do is to use the MK Grid system and fit a standard switch in
one location and a dimmer in the other. You could always remove the dimmer
know and cut the spindel down to "nearly flush" and cut a screwriver slot
in the bit that's left.

--
from KT24 in Surrey, England

David pretended :
Thanks. The dimmer switch was mentioned and is a good idea. The only
reservation was that I remember them as a knob with push for on and off and
turn for brightness. Is there such a thing as a "normal" switch with a
variable setting for brightness??

Dimmers are not a very efficient way to run ordinary lamps and
especially halogen lamps. Light output drops markedly as a larger
proportion of the power goes to producing heat. Halogen lamps can be
blackened by the use of a dimmer.

You can get dimmers which fit inline and are operated by a remote
control. LED's can be dimmed, but they have to be a variety designed to
work with a dimmer.

In article ,
Harry Bloomfield wrote:
David pretended :
Thanks. The dimmer switch was mentioned and is a good idea. The only
reservation was that I remember them as a knob with push for on and
off and turn for brightness. Is there such a thing as a "normal"
switch with a variable setting for brightness??

Dimmers are not a very efficient way to run ordinary lamps and
especially halogen lamps. Light output drops markedly as a larger
proportion of the power goes to producing heat.

True. However, if a light is too bright it reduces that output. It may
reduce the paper efficiency - but it doesn't cost you more in electricity.
If you are concerned about the very best working light for your penny,
change to a more efficient method of providing that light. But the problem
is (as in the OP's case) some want the device producing the light to be
attractive too.


Halogen lamps can be
blackened by the use of a dimmer.

I've read this many times and it simply doesn't happen here - with lots of
assorted halogen on dimmers. Only time I've seen blackened halogen bulbs
is in a car headlight. And I've no explanation as to why. Car headlights
are near always run with the voltage at near the 'correct' value. Very few
would run them for long with the engine stopped, so voltage below about
13.5v.

You can get dimmers which fit inline and are operated by a remote
control. LED's can be dimmed, but they have to be a variety designed to
work with a dimmer.

And the dimmer has to be trailing edge.

--
*A conclusion is the place where you got tired of thinking *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article ,
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Harry Bloomfield wrote:
David pretended :
Thanks. The dimmer switch was mentioned and is a good idea. The only
reservation was that I remember them as a knob with push for on and
off and turn for brightness. Is there such a thing as a "normal"
switch with a variable setting for brightness??

Dimmers are not a very efficient way to run ordinary lamps and
especially halogen lamps. Light output drops markedly as a larger
proportion of the power goes to producing heat.

True. However, if a light is too bright it reduces that output. It may
reduce the paper efficiency - but it doesn't cost you more in electricity.
If you are concerned about the very best working light for your penny,
change to a more efficient method of providing that light. But the problem
is (as in the OP's case) some want the device producing the light to be
attractive too.


Halogen lamps can be
blackened by the use of a dimmer.

I've read this many times and it simply doesn't happen here - with lots of
assorted halogen on dimmers. Only time I've seen blackened halogen bulbs
is in a car headlight. And I've no explanation as to why. Car headlights
are near always run with the voltage at near the 'correct' value. Very few
would run them for long with the engine stopped, so voltage below about
13.5v.

There used to a function called "DimDip" which seriously reduced the
voltage to headlights so that they could be used as running lights. As
halogen lamps came in DimDip was dropped because of the blackening problem.
In the theatre, lamps tended to die becasue, in general, from handling
problems rather tha partial blackening due to lower voltage.

--
from KT24 in Surrey, England

On 08/11/2016 12:32, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Harry Bloomfield wrote:
David pretended :
Thanks. The dimmer switch was mentioned and is a good idea. The only
reservation was that I remember them as a knob with push for on and
off and turn for brightness. Is there such a thing as a "normal"
switch with a variable setting for brightness??

Dimmers are not a very efficient way to run ordinary lamps and
especially halogen lamps. Light output drops markedly as a larger
proportion of the power goes to producing heat.

True. However, if a light is too bright it reduces that output. It may
reduce the paper efficiency - but it doesn't cost you more in electricity.
If you are concerned about the very best working light for your penny,
change to a more efficient method of providing that light. But the problem
is (as in the OP's case) some want the device producing the light to be
attractive too.


Halogen lamps can be
blackened by the use of a dimmer.

I've read this many times and it simply doesn't happen here - with lots of
assorted halogen on dimmers. Only time I've seen blackened halogen bulbs
is in a car headlight. And I've no explanation as to why. Car headlights
are near always run with the voltage at near the 'correct' value. Very few
would run them for long with the engine stopped, so voltage below about
13.5v.

You can get dimmers which fit inline and are operated by a remote
control. LED's can be dimmed, but they have to be a variety designed to
work with a dimmer.

And the dimmer has to be trailing edge.



--
mailto: news {at} admac {dot] myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

On 08/11/2016 12:07, Harry Bloomfield wrote:
David pretended :
Thanks. The dimmer switch was mentioned and is a good idea. The only
reservation was that I remember them as a knob with push for on and
off and turn for brightness. Is there such a thing as a "normal"
switch with a variable setting for brightness??

Dimmers are not a very efficient way to run ordinary lamps and
especially halogen lamps. Light output drops markedly as a larger
proportion of the power goes to producing heat. Halogen lamps can be
blackened by the use of a dimmer.


The OP suggested this was a landing light. It may be switched from two
or more positions making the use of a dimmer somewhat more complicated.


--
mailto: news {at} admac {dot] myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

alan_m submitted this idea :
The OP suggested this was a landing light. It may be switched from two or
more positions making the use of a dimmer somewhat more complicated.

Though not impossible

In article ,
alan_m wrote:
The OP suggested this was a landing light. It may be switched from two
or more positions making the use of a dimmer somewhat more complicated.

The push on/off types have a two way switch. Depending on make, some don't
dim to extinction, so you would always have at least some light.

--
*Broken pencils are pointless.*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

But can be strange colours of course.
I'm not and have never been convinced that Halogen are anything but
unreliable current and tend to cook the sockets as well.
Brian

--
----- -
This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

Blind user, so no pictures please!
"charles" wrote in message
...
In article , David
wrote:
Y'know, when I was little, we had 60w bayonets and that was it, unless
you decided to go mad and get a 100w bayonet. Now I actually need to
have a written bulb inventory with which
cap/type/wattage/clear/pearl/candle/halogen/cfl/led etc for each room.
Jesus.

Anyway, I have just put up a new six-bulb ceiling lamp on the landing
(reasons of design - I am just the labourer). It has six ses halogen
clear candle 18w bulbs. That's 108w or 138w equivalent. It's a bit too
bright. Does anyone know if I can get an ses clear candle filament (pref
halogen) bulb with a lower wattage than 18w? I don't want to go down the
LED filament route at this point as I'm not rich enough.

In this case Google is not my friend, it is a Moroccan street market
trader who ignores what I say and tries to sell me what it has. "Less
than 18w? Yes my friend, I have! Look! Yes, is 42w. 42w is better! Look
it is good bulb and very cheap!"

All advice welcome. Even the advice to travel back in time and get a
lamp with fewer than six bulbs..

Fit a dimmer switch.

According to TLC's catalogue, 3w LEDs are 25% brighter than the halogen
ones you have.

--
from KT24 in Surrey, England

On Monday, 7 November 2016 15:31:27 UTC, Brian Gaff wrote:
But can be strange colours of course.
I'm not and have never been convinced that Halogen are anything but
unreliable current and tend to cook the sockets as well.
Brian

Yes they do seem to get rather hot and give off a lot of heat they've made a brown/black mark on my ceiling which is another reason to stick to lower wattge or a dimmer.
If you're dimming LEDs get dimmable LEDs and a dimmer that can dim LEDs seems simple enough but you'd be suprised.

In article ,
Brian Gaff wrote:
But can be strange colours of course.
I'm not and have never been convinced that Halogen are anything but
unreliable current and tend to cook the sockets as well.

Halogen replacements for the older tungsten are common these days. They
are easy to see (as it were) as usually contain the halogen capsule within
and ordinary glass envelope. Needed as the filament runs much hotter.
They consume less current than the equivalent tungsten hence 'allowed'. So
no reason they would 'cook' the socket, as being more efficient must
produce less heat.

--
*A cubicle is just a padded cell without a door.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ,
Brian Gaff wrote:
But can be strange colours of course.
I'm not and have never been convinced that Halogen are anything but
unreliable current and tend to cook the sockets as well.

Halogen replacements for the older tungsten are common these days. They
are easy to see (as it were) as usually contain the halogen capsule within
and ordinary glass envelope. Needed as the filament runs much hotter.
They consume less current than the equivalent tungsten hence 'allowed'. So
no reason they would 'cook' the socket, as being more efficient must
produce less heat.

That last mangles the real story. Because they run much hotter, they heat
the socket more. They are more efficient because they run much hotter.

Dave Plowman (News) explained on 07/11/2016 :
Halogen replacements for the older tungsten are common these days. They
are easy to see (as it were) as usually contain the halogen capsule within
and ordinary glass envelope. Needed as the filament runs much hotter.
They consume less current than the equivalent tungsten hence 'allowed'. So
no reason they would 'cook' the socket, as being more efficient must
produce less heat.

They are more efficient, they produce a higher proportion of light than
heat when compared to ordinary lamps, but they do run very hot indeed -
the heat generated in a much smaller package less able to dispose of
the heat.

My experience of them is that the heat can oxidise the pins, the oxide
on the pins then damages the sockets.

I have around a dozen 10w halogen lamps in my caravan - all of them
have suffered some degree of damage due oxidisation of the pins.

In article ,
Harry Bloomfield wrote:
Dave Plowman (News) explained on 07/11/2016 :
Halogen replacements for the older tungsten are common these days.
They are easy to see (as it were) as usually contain the halogen
capsule within and ordinary glass envelope. Needed as the filament
runs much hotter. They consume less current than the equivalent
tungsten hence 'allowed'. So no reason they would 'cook' the socket,
as being more efficient must produce less heat.

They are more efficient, they produce a higher proportion of light than
heat when compared to ordinary lamps, but they do run very hot indeed -
the heat generated in a much smaller package less able to dispose of
the heat.

I was talking about halogen GLS replacements. Look much the same as GLS -
apart from the internals. The equivalent to an old 100w GLS is said to be
a 70w halogen - so not really sure how that could produce more heat?

https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_In...ena/index.html

My experience of them is that the heat can oxidise the pins, the oxide
on the pins then damages the sockets.

I have around a dozen 10w halogen lamps in my caravan - all of them
have suffered some degree of damage due oxidisation of the pins.

Yehbut that's just poor design. Nothing to do with being halogen or not.
Cars have had very small high powered halogen lamps for years. But with a
properly designed connector.

--
*How does Moses make his tea? Hebrews it.*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Brian Gaff wrote:

never been convinced that Halogen are anything but
unreliable current and tend to cook the sockets as well

Thought they weren't good for dimmers, 1) you might not make much power
saving by dimming them and 2) if you run them too cool the halogens will
"coat" the inside of the capsule with silvery deposits?

On 07/11/2016 17:44, Andy Burns wrote:
Brian Gaff wrote:

never been convinced that Halogen are anything but
unreliable current and tend to cook the sockets as well

Thought they weren't good for dimmers, 1) you might not make much power
saving by dimming them and 2) if you run them too cool the halogens will
"coat" the inside of the capsule with silvery deposits?

The halogen cycle requires the envelope run hot enough to work, but a
small amount of (visible) dimming does not drop the power dissipation
that much.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

In article ,
John Rumm wrote:
On 07/11/2016 17:44, Andy Burns wrote:
Brian Gaff wrote:

never been convinced that Halogen are anything but
unreliable current and tend to cook the sockets as well

Thought they weren't good for dimmers, 1) you might not make much power
saving by dimming them and 2) if you run them too cool the halogens will
"coat" the inside of the capsule with silvery deposits?

The halogen cycle requires the envelope run hot enough to work, but a
small amount of (visible) dimming does not drop the power dissipation
that much.

In theatres halogen lamps have been used for many years and are regularly
dimmed.

--
from KT24 in Surrey, England

On Monday, 7 November 2016 22:45:08 UTC, John Rumm wrote:
On 07/11/2016 17:44, Andy Burns wrote:
Brian Gaff wrote:

never been convinced that Halogen are anything but
unreliable current and tend to cook the sockets as well

Thought they weren't good for dimmers, 1) you might not make much power
saving by dimming them and 2) if you run them too cool the halogens will
"coat" the inside of the capsule with silvery deposits?

The halogen cycle requires the envelope run hot enough to work, but a
small amount of (visible) dimming does not drop the power dissipation
that much.

The halogen cycle isn't needed if you dim it enough that it doesn't work.


NT

In article ,
Andy Burns wrote:
Brian Gaff wrote:

never been convinced that Halogen are anything but
unreliable current and tend to cook the sockets as well

Thought they weren't good for dimmers, 1) you might not make much power
saving by dimming them and 2) if you run them too cool the halogens will
"coat" the inside of the capsule with silvery deposits?

I've often heard that one. I have halogens in the kitchen which are
frequently on for long periods dimmed, and never had a problem.

They are fairly unusual lamps - R80 - which are like a smaller PAP38. With
the usual halogen capsule within a large glass envelope.

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*CAN VEGETARIANS EAT ANIMAL CRACKERS?

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article ,
David wrote:
Anyway, I have just put up a new six-bulb ceiling lamp on the landing
(reasons of design - I am just the labourer). It has six ses halogen
clear candle 18w bulbs. That's 108w or 138w equivalent. It's a bit too
bright. Does anyone know if I can get an ses clear candle filament (pref
halogen) bulb with a lower wattage than 18w? I don't want to go down
the LED filament route at this point as I'm not rich enough.


Stick a diode in series with the fitting. That will take the edge of the
output. LED candle lights are about 5 times the price of halogen. I dunno
halogen candle lamps but if anything like the older tungsten variety
you'll get very used to fitting new ones.

--
*Modulation in all things *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Would this not make them flicker a bit? Not to say it would load one mains
half cycle one would assume.

Brian

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This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
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"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ,
David wrote:
Anyway, I have just put up a new six-bulb ceiling lamp on the landing
(reasons of design - I am just the labourer). It has six ses halogen
clear candle 18w bulbs. That's 108w or 138w equivalent. It's a bit too
bright. Does anyone know if I can get an ses clear candle filament (pref
halogen) bulb with a lower wattage than 18w? I don't want to go down
the LED filament route at this point as I'm not rich enough.


Stick a diode in series with the fitting. That will take the edge of the
output. LED candle lights are about 5 times the price of halogen. I dunno
halogen candle lamps but if anything like the older tungsten variety
you'll get very used to fitting new ones.

--
*Modulation in all things *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Brian Gaff wrote:

Would this not make them flicker a bit?

Perhaps

Not to say it would load one mains
half cycle one would assume.

I think the grid can cope!

On Mon, 7 Nov 2016 17:45:39 +0000, Andy Burns
wrote:

Brian Gaff wrote:

Would this not make them flicker a bit?

Perhaps


This was a fairly well known approach years back, there was a flicker
but I would guess that the type of filament used in halogens may
reduce the flicker to negligble levels.

Not to say it would load one mains
half cycle one would assume.

I think the grid can cope!

Assuming you take the positive half cycle in one room, stick the same
arrangement in another room and stick the diode in the other way so
the current is passed on the negative swing.

Peace happiness and much serenity back in the power station :-)


Incidentally another trick was a "wattless dropper" . I doubt that the
capacitor would fit in the switch box though. One could of course bung
it in a jam jar on a small shelf by the side of the switch.


AB

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