The packaging for a self-contained LED lamp says:

Operating temperature -10°C +40°C

Allow to cool before replacing light bulb

Use the same kind of bulbs in lighting units with multiple
lampholders. Do not combine LED light bulbs and filament bulbs.

For indoor use only

Please compare the weight of the light bulb to be replaced.
Mechanical instability may occur if there is a difference.

Why can't you use different kinds of lamps in a multi-lamp light
fitting? All the lamps that are switched on at the same time on the
same circuit are (apart from ones on dimmers) effectively wired in
parallel anyway. I can see why a hanging light fitting might lean a
bit if you put a heavier lamp on one side than the other, but the last
instruction covers that.

(I have a 3-way R63 light in one room with 1 CFL & 2 incandescents; I
can't see why that's significantly different from the situation in the
kitchen, where there are 4 single R63 fittings wired close together,
using 2 CFLs & 2 incandescents.)


Also, why is the LED lamp unsuitable for outdoor use (in an
appropriate fitting) above -10°C?


Thanks

On Sat, 19 Oct 2013 21:36:51 +0100, Adam Funk
wrote:

The packaging for a self-contained LED lamp says:

Operating temperature -10°C +40°C

Allow to cool before replacing light bulb

Use the same kind of bulbs in lighting units with multiple
lampholders. Do not combine LED light bulbs and filament bulbs.

For indoor use only

Please compare the weight of the light bulb to be replaced.
Mechanical instability may occur if there is a difference.

Why can't you use different kinds of lamps in a multi-lamp light
fitting? All the lamps that are switched on at the same time on the
same circuit are (apart from ones on dimmers) effectively wired in
parallel anyway. I can see why a hanging light fitting might lean a
bit if you put a heavier lamp on one side than the other, but the last
instruction covers that.

(I have a 3-way R63 light in one room with 1 CFL & 2 incandescents; I
can't see why that's significantly different from the situation in the
kitchen, where there are 4 single R63 fittings wired close together,
using 2 CFLs & 2 incandescents.)


Also, why is the LED lamp unsuitable for outdoor use (in an
appropriate fitting) above -10°C?


Thanks

I think convention is to say *below* -10 deg C
Perhaps the electrolyte freezes in the caps?

As for not mixing them, perhaps the manufacturer foresees a scenario
where they get sued by someone burning themselves on the one halogen
lamp in the fitting they had forgot was there.

Best I can come up with, at the moment.

--
Graham.

%Profound_observation%

On 19/10/2013 21:36, Adam Funk wrote:
The packaging for a self-contained LED lamp says:

Operating temperature -10°C +40°C

Allow to cool before replacing light bulb

Use the same kind of bulbs in lighting units with multiple
lampholders. Do not combine LED light bulbs and filament bulbs.

For indoor use only

Please compare the weight of the light bulb to be replaced.
Mechanical instability may occur if there is a difference.

Why can't you use different kinds of lamps in a multi-lamp light
fitting?

You can generally.

All the lamps that are switched on at the same time on the
same circuit are (apart from ones on dimmers) effectively wired in
parallel anyway. I can see why a hanging light fitting might lean a
bit if you put a heavier lamp on one side than the other, but the last
instruction covers that.

The main issue would come with an enclosed fitting that takes more than
one lamp. The LED ones may not withstand the operating temperature of
the enclosure when sat right next to a filament lamp.

Also, why is the LED lamp unsuitable for outdoor use (in an
appropriate fitting) above -10°C?

The appropriate fitting is the key bit - the lamp is not suited to use
outside on its own.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On Saturday, October 19, 2013 9:36:51 PM UTC+1, Adam Funk wrote:

The packaging for a self-contained LED lamp says:
Operating temperature -10°C +40°C
Allow to cool before replacing light bulb
Use the same kind of bulbs in lighting units with multiple
lampholders. Do not combine LED light bulbs and filament bulbs.
For indoor use only
Please compare the weight of the light bulb to be replaced.
Mechanical instability may occur if there is a difference.
Why can't you use different kinds of lamps in a multi-lamp light
fitting?

Heat kills LEDs, eg 100w filament plus 5w LED in a glass globe

All the lamps that are switched on at the same time on the
same circuit are (apart from ones on dimmers) effectively wired in
parallel anyway. I can see why a hanging light fitting might lean a
bit if you put a heavier lamp on one side than the other, but the last
instruction covers that.
(I have a 3-way R63 light in one room with 1 CFL & 2 incandescents; I
can't see why that's significantly different from the situation in the
kitchen, where there are 4 single R63 fittings wired close together,
using 2 CFLs & 2 incandescents.)
Also, why is the LED lamp unsuitable for outdoor use (in an
appropriate fitting) above -10°C?
Thanks

Corrosion due to damp.


NT

Well, most of this is just protecting their backs. If the fitting is
enclosed then the filament bulbs can overheat the electronics of the other
bulb of course, merely due to proximity and the enclosed design. I have also
noticed that some cfls do not like being in cold places like sheds etc, and
can be dim or simply not strike at all. as for LEDs I don't know enough
about how their power supply orks to make an educated guess, but I'd imagine
it might be that much i like cfls the electronics get condensation if
outside and can fail due to that.

Brian

--
From the Sofa of Brian Gaff Reply address is active
"Adam Funk" wrote in message
...
The packaging for a self-contained LED lamp says:

Operating temperature -10°C +40°C

Allow to cool before replacing light bulb

Use the same kind of bulbs in lighting units with multiple
lampholders. Do not combine LED light bulbs and filament bulbs.

For indoor use only

Please compare the weight of the light bulb to be replaced.
Mechanical instability may occur if there is a difference.

Why can't you use different kinds of lamps in a multi-lamp light
fitting? All the lamps that are switched on at the same time on the
same circuit are (apart from ones on dimmers) effectively wired in
parallel anyway. I can see why a hanging light fitting might lean a
bit if you put a heavier lamp on one side than the other, but the last
instruction covers that.

(I have a 3-way R63 light in one room with 1 CFL & 2 incandescents; I
can't see why that's significantly different from the situation in the
kitchen, where there are 4 single R63 fittings wired close together,
using 2 CFLs & 2 incandescents.)


Also, why is the LED lamp unsuitable for outdoor use (in an
appropriate fitting) above -10°C?


Thanks

On 19/10/2013 23:53, John Rumm wrote:
On 19/10/2013 21:36, Adam Funk wrote:
....
Also, why is the LED lamp unsuitable for outdoor use (in an
appropriate fitting) above -10°C?

The appropriate fitting is the key bit - the lamp is not suited to use
outside on its own.

Indeed. I have an LED bulkhead lamp that is rated for outdoor use.

Colin Bignell

On 20/10/2013 09:22, Brian Gaff wrote:
Well, most of this is just protecting their backs. If the fitting is
enclosed then the filament bulbs can overheat the electronics of the other
bulb of course, merely due to proximity and the enclosed design. I have also
noticed that some cfls do not like being in cold places like sheds etc, and
can be dim or simply not strike at all. as for LEDs I don't know enough
about how their power supply orks to make an educated guess, but I'd imagine
it might be that much i like cfls the electronics get condensation if
outside and can fail due to that.

Unless you need "always on" outside lights there is little point in
using CFLs for that application. Filament lamps give instant on at any
temperature, and good light output. In applications where the total run
time per year is relatively low, then the cost of running them becomes
far less significant.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 2013-10-19, John Rumm wrote:

On 19/10/2013 21:36, Adam Funk wrote:

Why can't you use different kinds of lamps in a multi-lamp light
fitting?

You can generally.

All the lamps that are switched on at the same time on the
same circuit are (apart from ones on dimmers) effectively wired in
parallel anyway. I can see why a hanging light fitting might lean a
bit if you put a heavier lamp on one side than the other, but the last
instruction covers that.

The main issue would come with an enclosed fitting that takes more than
one lamp. The LED ones may not withstand the operating temperature of
the enclosure when sat right next to a filament lamp.

Ah, now if the instructions had said "do not combine ... in an
enclosed fitting" I would've thought of that. (It just happens that I
only have 1 enclosed light fitting that takes more than 1 lamp, & that
one was designed for 2 CFLs.)


Also, why is the LED lamp unsuitable for outdoor use (in an
appropriate fitting) above -10°C?

The appropriate fitting is the key bit - the lamp is not suited to use
outside on its own.

Not many lamps are suitable for use outdoors without an appropriate
fitting!

On Sun, 20 Oct 2013 17:20:39 +0100, John Rumm
wrote:

On 20/10/2013 09:22, Brian Gaff wrote:
Well, most of this is just protecting their backs. If the fitting is
enclosed then the filament bulbs can overheat the electronics of the other
bulb of course, merely due to proximity and the enclosed design. I have also
noticed that some cfls do not like being in cold places like sheds etc, and
can be dim or simply not strike at all. as for LEDs I don't know enough
about how their power supply orks to make an educated guess, but I'd imagine
it might be that much i like cfls the electronics get condensation if
outside and can fail due to that.

Unless you need "always on" outside lights there is little point in
using CFLs for that application. Filament lamps give instant on at any
temperature, and good light output. In applications where the total run
time per year is relatively low, then the cost of running them becomes
far less significant.

The problem I find is failure due to wind vibration of the fitting.
I have three spiral CFLs in the coach lamps outside, they have
reasonable switch-on brightness and CFLs outside seem to last forever.

--
Graham.

%Profound_observation%

On 2013-10-20, Graham wrote:

On Sun, 20 Oct 2013 17:20:39 +0100, John Rumm
wrote:

Unless you need "always on" outside lights there is little point in
using CFLs for that application. Filament lamps give instant on at any
temperature, and good light output. In applications where the total run
time per year is relatively low, then the cost of running them becomes
far less significant.

The problem I find is failure due to wind vibration of the fitting.
I have three spiral CFLs in the coach lamps outside, they have
reasonable switch-on brightness and CFLs outside seem to last forever.

I have CFLs in all the outside lights & get similar results
(reasonable but instant switch-on & very long life).

Adam Funk :
On 2013-10-20, Graham wrote:

On Sun, 20 Oct 2013 17:20:39 +0100, John Rumm
wrote:

Unless you need "always on" outside lights there is little point in
using CFLs for that application. Filament lamps give instant on at any
temperature, and good light output. In applications where the total run
time per year is relatively low, then the cost of running them becomes
far less significant.

The problem I find is failure due to wind vibration of the fitting.
I have three spiral CFLs in the coach lamps outside, they have
reasonable switch-on brightness and CFLs outside seem to last forever.

I have CFLs in all the outside lights & get similar results
(reasonable but instant switch-on & very long life).

Ditto with the spiral CFLs from CPC. They've been going for years and I
can't see me ever getting through my small stock of spares.

--
Mike Barnes

On 2013-10-21, Adam Funk wrote:

On 2013-10-20, Graham wrote:

On Sun, 20 Oct 2013 17:20:39 +0100, John Rumm
wrote:

Unless you need "always on" outside lights there is little point in
using CFLs for that application. Filament lamps give instant on at any
temperature, and good light output. In applications where the total run
time per year is relatively low, then the cost of running them becomes
far less significant.

The problem I find is failure due to wind vibration of the fitting.
I have three spiral CFLs in the coach lamps outside, they have
reasonable switch-on brightness and CFLs outside seem to last forever.

I have CFLs in all the outside lights & get similar results
(reasonable but instant switch-on & very long life).

Oops, that should be "reasonable but not instant"!

On 21/10/2013 14:54, Adam Funk wrote:
On 2013-10-21, Adam Funk wrote:

On 2013-10-20, Graham wrote:

On Sun, 20 Oct 2013 17:20:39 +0100, John Rumm
wrote:

Unless you need "always on" outside lights there is little point in
using CFLs for that application. Filament lamps give instant on at any
temperature, and good light output. In applications where the total run
time per year is relatively low, then the cost of running them becomes
far less significant.

The problem I find is failure due to wind vibration of the fitting.
I have three spiral CFLs in the coach lamps outside, they have
reasonable switch-on brightness and CFLs outside seem to last forever.

I have CFLs in all the outside lights & get similar results
(reasonable but instant switch-on & very long life).

Oops, that should be "reasonable but not instant"!

You can get ones intended for outdoor use which are quicker to warm up
under frosty conditions. LED ones shouldn't suffer as badly at least in
the UK although electrolyte freezing damage possible at -10C or so.

--
Regards,
Martin Brown

On 20/10/2013 19:40, Adam Funk wrote:
On 2013-10-19, John Rumm wrote:

The appropriate fitting is the key bit - the lamp is not suited to use
outside on its own.

Not many lamps are suitable for use outdoors without an appropriate
fitting!

Those for use in festoon lighting "ropes" spring to mind...


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 21/10/2013 12:15, Adam Funk wrote:
On 2013-10-20, Graham wrote:

On Sun, 20 Oct 2013 17:20:39 +0100, John Rumm
wrote:

Unless you need "always on" outside lights there is little point in
using CFLs for that application. Filament lamps give instant on at any
temperature, and good light output. In applications where the total run
time per year is relatively low, then the cost of running them becomes
far less significant.

The problem I find is failure due to wind vibration of the fitting.
I have three spiral CFLs in the coach lamps outside, they have
reasonable switch-on brightness and CFLs outside seem to last forever.

I have CFLs in all the outside lights & get similar results
(reasonable but instant switch-on & very long life).

I installed all my outside lights about 5 years ago or so, not had to
replace a filament bulb yet (these are PIR switched).


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 2013-10-21, John Rumm wrote:

On 20/10/2013 19:40, Adam Funk wrote:
On 2013-10-19, John Rumm wrote:

The appropriate fitting is the key bit - the lamp is not suited to use
outside on its own.

Not many lamps are suitable for use outdoors without an appropriate
fitting!

Those for use in festoon lighting "ropes" spring to mind...

Yabbut I'd assume that any lamp is not suitable for "bare" use outside
unless it's marked as such. Putting "not suitable for outside use" on
a lamp (as opposed to a light fitting) makes it sound like it's not
suitable for outside use at all.