As I remarked in an earlier message, I now have a fully working
automatic garage door. However one problem is that if I don't remember
to park the Freelander forward then I'm going to have an expensive
repair job to look forward to, as the canopy door extension bar sticks
out several inches, and will clobber the rear of the Freelander.

The door opener/closer is the Motorlift 5000 from Screwfix.

I need to have some sort of proximity detector which will either
prevent the door from closing, or alternatively beep at me or flash a
light if the car isn't far enough forward in the garage.

Any ideas, possibly with links?

Andrew

Do you need a handyman service? Check out our
web site at http://www.handymac.co.uk

On Wed, 23 Jul 2003 19:54:55 +0100, Andrew McKay
wrote:

As I remarked in an earlier message, I now have a fully working
automatic garage door. However one problem is that if I don't remember
to park the Freelander forward then I'm going to have an expensive
repair job to look forward to, as the canopy door extension bar sticks
out several inches, and will clobber the rear of the Freelander.

The door opener/closer is the Motorlift 5000 from Screwfix.

I need to have some sort of proximity detector which will either
prevent the door from closing, or alternatively beep at me or flash a
light if the car isn't far enough forward in the garage.

Any ideas, possibly with links?

Andrew

=


Are you sure that the canopy arm is actually needed? When I did
mine, the instructions suggest that one is, by the design of the door,
but in fact it isn't


..andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl

Andrew McKay wrote:
As I remarked in an earlier message, I now have a fully working
automatic garage door. However one problem is that if I don't remember
to park the Freelander forward then I'm going to have an expensive
repair job to look forward to, as the canopy door extension bar sticks
out several inches, and will clobber the rear of the Freelander.

The door opener/closer is the Motorlift 5000 from Screwfix.

I need to have some sort of proximity detector which will either
prevent the door from closing, or alternatively beep at me or flash a
light if the car isn't far enough forward in the garage.

Any ideas, possibly with links?
To solve an identical problem I screwed a batten to the floor behind where
the rear wheel would be with the car in the correct position.
Didn't help when I remotely made the door come down on the open hatchback
though :-(

"Andrew McKay" wrote
| As I remarked in an earlier message, I now have a fully working
| automatic garage door. However one problem is that if I don't remember
| to park the Freelander forward then I'm going to have an expensive
| repair job to look forward to, as the canopy door extension bar sticks
| out several inches, and will clobber the rear of the Freelander.
| I need to have some sort of proximity detector which will either
| prevent the door from closing, or alternatively beep at me or flash a
| light if the car isn't far enough forward in the garage.

An infra-red beam break detector positioned the requisite distance/height
from the garage door sounds the sort of thing. Maplin.co.uk BZ64U or p557 in
the Catalogue for GBP 25. 12-20Vdc supply, reed relay normally-closed might
do the job.

Owain

Andrew McKay wrote:
As I remarked in an earlier message, I now have a fully working
automatic garage door. However one problem is that if I don't remember
to park the Freelander forward then I'm going to have an expensive
repair job to look forward to, as the canopy door extension bar sticks
out several inches, and will clobber the rear of the Freelander.

The door opener/closer is the Motorlift 5000 from Screwfix.

I need to have some sort of proximity detector which will either
prevent the door from closing, or alternatively beep at me or flash a
light if the car isn't far enough forward in the garage.

Any ideas, possibly with links?

How about a lever-arm switch with the lever running parallel to the bar so
that it'd kill the power if it came too close.

--
James...
http://www.jameshart.co.uk/

On Wed, 23 Jul 2003 21:50:39 +0100, Andy Hall
wrote:

Are you sure that the canopy arm is actually needed? When I did
mine, the instructions suggest that one is, by the design of the door,
but in fact it isn't

Well.....

I hear where you are coming from, but the canopy door levels out
horizontally. And prior to fitting the opener I tried applying
pressure on the top of the door in a horizontal direction - it
wouldn't budge.

Hence why I went for the canopy arm, because I believe that splits the
horizontal movement to a force direction which causes the door to
close.

I suppose I could try it without, but I was a bit worried about
knadgering the drive system and maybe having the door fall off through
being given some brute force in a direction it decided to resist

Andrew

Do you need a handyman service? Check out our
web site at http://www.handymac.co.uk

B & Q Warehouses used to sell the Chamberlain photo electric sensor kit to
go with the door. Phone them and check. Alternatively talk to any garage
door fitting company, they probably have the units.
It's an essential item, remarkably sensitive, I set it up with her
broomstick!
Regards
Capitol

Andrew McKay wrote in message ...
As I remarked in an earlier message, I now have a fully working
automatic garage door. However one problem is that if I don't remember
to park the Freelander forward then I'm going to have an expensive
repair job to look forward to, as the canopy door extension bar sticks
out several inches, and will clobber the rear of the Freelander.

The door opener/closer is the Motorlift 5000 from Screwfix.

I need to have some sort of proximity detector which will either
prevent the door from closing, or alternatively beep at me or flash a
light if the car isn't far enough forward in the garage.

Any ideas, possibly with links?

Andrew

Do you need a handyman service? Check out our
web site at http://www.handymac.co.uk

On Wed, 23 Jul 2003 23:18:05 +0100, Andrew McKay
wrote:

On Wed, 23 Jul 2003 21:50:39 +0100, Andy Hall
wrote:

Are you sure that the canopy arm is actually needed? When I did
mine, the instructions suggest that one is, by the design of the door,
but in fact it isn't

Well.....

I hear where you are coming from, but the canopy door levels out
horizontally. And prior to fitting the opener I tried applying
pressure on the top of the door in a horizontal direction - it
wouldn't budge.

Hence why I went for the canopy arm, because I believe that splits the
horizontal movement to a force direction which causes the door to
close.

I suppose I could try it without, but I was a bit worried about
knadgering the drive system and maybe having the door fall off through
being given some brute force in a direction it decided to resist

Andrew

Do you need a handyman service? Check out our
web site at http://www.handymac.co.uk

OK. Mine level out horizontally too, but there's no problem getting
it to move by pushing the top. Do you have horizontal tracks as
part of the door mechanism? If so, are they aligned properly? I had
to adjust mine because the builder did not install correctly.

However, see other post



..andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl

snip
I need to have some sort of proximity detector which will either
prevent the door from closing, or alternatively beep at me or flash a
light if the car isn't far enough forward in the garage.

Any ideas, possibly with links?

How about the old tennis ball hanging from the garage roof which touches the
windscreen when the car is far enough in the garage. Not high tech but it
works!
Steve R

---
One piece, one button suit, timeless fashion. All made by the same
manufacturer, no designer label, everybody has one.

Andy Hall wrote:
There is a photoelectric beam accessory that is normally intended to
protect children and animals. If there is something in its way, the
door opens.

If you put one of these in the right place, if the car is not far
enough forward, the door won't close.

B&Q have these for £25.

Tennis ball £1


Steve R

---
One piece, one button suit, timeless fashion. All made by the same
manufacturer, no designer label, everybody has one.

"Andrew McKay" wrote in message
news
As I remarked in an earlier message, I now have a fully working
automatic garage door. However one problem is that if I don't remember
to park the Freelander forward then I'm going to have an expensive
repair job to look forward to, as the canopy door extension bar sticks
out several inches, and will clobber the rear of the Freelander.

The door opener/closer is the Motorlift 5000 from Screwfix.

I need to have some sort of proximity detector which will either
prevent the door from closing, or alternatively beep at me or flash a
light if the car isn't far enough forward in the garage.

Any ideas, possibly with links?

I just line up my nearside wing mirror with a particular brick in the wall.

Colin Bignell

Andrew McKay wrote in message . ..
As I remarked in an earlier message, I now have a fully working
automatic garage door. However one problem is that if I don't remember
to park the Freelander forward then I'm going to have an expensive
repair job to look forward to, as the canopy door extension bar sticks
out several inches, and will clobber the rear of the Freelander.

The door opener/closer is the Motorlift 5000 from Screwfix.

I need to have some sort of proximity detector which will either
prevent the door from closing, or alternatively beep at me or flash a
light if the car isn't far enough forward in the garage.

Any ideas, possibly with links?

Andrew

Do you need a handyman service? Check out our
web site at http://www.handymac.co.uk

It's not what you asked to do but many people simply hang a
tennis ball or wiffle ball w/ string from the ceiling so that
the ball is touching the windshield when the vehicle is far
enough in the garage. Simply always pull in until the windshield
touches the ball. Most of the photo-cells made for residential
operators are brand specific & will not usually work on other
brands of openers.

Doordoc
www.doorsandopeners.com

On Thu, 24 Jul 2003 01:57:47 +0100, Andy Hall
wrote:

OK. Mine level out horizontally too, but there's no problem getting
it to move by pushing the top. Do you have horizontal tracks as
part of the door mechanism? If so, are they aligned properly? I had
to adjust mine because the builder did not install correctly.

I'll check this out.

However, no horizontal tracks that I recall.

Andrew

Do you need a handyman service? Check out our
web site at http://www.handymac.co.uk

On Thu, 24 Jul 2003 01:36:33 +0000 (UTC), "Essjay001"
wrote:

How about the old tennis ball hanging from the garage roof which touches the
windscreen when the car is far enough in the garage. Not high tech but it
works!

Yes, but the only problem is if I happen to be thinking of something
else whilst parking and pull up to where I used to park (I did this by
aligning the passenger door to a spot on the garage wall) then the
tennis ball isn't going to leap up and down to say "oi - you haven't
moved far enough forward!".

Andrew

Do you need a handyman service? Check out our
web site at http://www.handymac.co.uk

On Wed, 23 Jul 2003 23:35:40 +0100, "Capitol"
wrote:

B & Q Warehouses used to sell the Chamberlain photo electric sensor kit to
go with the door. Phone them and check. Alternatively talk to any garage
door fitting company, they probably have the units.

Forgot to mention - it's a double-width garage, so mounting the sender
and receiver units might be a tad difficult. There's usually always
something in the way on the other side of the garage, and you can't
mount these things in midair to span just one bay.

Andrew

Do you need a handyman service? Check out our
web site at http://www.handymac.co.uk

"Stephen Gower" wrote in message
...
Andrew McKay wrote:

Yes, but the only problem is if I happen to be thinking of something
else whilst parking and pull up to where I used to park (I did this by
aligning the passenger door to a spot on the garage wall)

Stick a reminder notice on the spot you used to use.
--
Selah

I warned you about parking something tall, and you called me a midget?! ;-)
Reverse in, makes for batman style getaways with the electric door. (Or hill
street blues...)
Bit of plank on the floor, good for nudging up against, bad for tripping
over.
Dangly string must touch windscreen.
Or nudge something on the side wall, stepladder? My sister used to nudge the
boiler!!


Toby.

On Wed, 23 Jul 2003 19:54:55 +0100, Andrew McKay
wrote:

As I remarked in an earlier message, I now have a fully working
automatic garage door. However one problem is that if I don't remember
to park the Freelander forward then I'm going to have an expensive
repair job to look forward to, as the canopy door extension bar sticks
out several inches, and will clobber the rear of the Freelander.

The door opener/closer is the Motorlift 5000 from Screwfix.

I need to have some sort of proximity detector which will either
prevent the door from closing, or alternatively beep at me or flash a
light if the car isn't far enough forward in the garage.

Any ideas, possibly with links?

Andrew

Do you need a handyman service? Check out our
web site at http://www.handymac.co.uk


How about one of these?
http://www.letsautomate.com/10463.cf...TOKEN=17875167

I'd have thought it'd be fairly striaghtforward to modify it into an
interlock if required.

I'm thinking about getting one for my dad, so if anyone's tried one
and they're rubbihs, or whatever, please say!

Cheers

Neil

On Thu, 24 Jul 2003 16:22:58 +0100, "Toby"
wrote:

I warned you about parking something tall, and you called me a midget?! ;-)

I didna call ya a midget, mon! I just said I was concerned if you HAD
been a midget

Reverse in, makes for batman style getaways with the electric door. (Or hill
street blues...)

Listen, going in forwards is hard enough - their is 1.5in to spare
with the wing mirrors sticking out and the single door frame (I know
because I've caught them twice in 3 years.....).

Plus if I reversed in I'd have to get out the passenger door.....

Andrew

Do you need a handyman service? Check out our
web site at http://www.handymac.co.uk

On Thu, 24 Jul 2003 15:40:11 +0100, "Owain"
wrote:

Of course if you had two highly directional transmitters in each corner of
the garage the system could also guide you into the garage on a radio beam.

Hey - I like that idea!

The door open signal works from the end of our road - I tried it
yesterday - about 50 yards. Now you've given me an idea that I could
fit some extra electronics so that when I come round the corner into
our close I push a button and auto-pilot guides the vehicle into the
garage......

Andrew

Do you need a handyman service? Check out our
web site at http://www.handymac.co.uk

On Thu, 24 Jul 2003 06:14:23 +0100, Andrew McKay
wrote:

On Wed, 23 Jul 2003 23:35:40 +0100, "Capitol"
wrote:

B & Q Warehouses used to sell the Chamberlain photo electric sensor kit to
go with the door. Phone them and check. Alternatively talk to any garage
door fitting company, they probably have the units.

Forgot to mention - it's a double-width garage, so mounting the sender
and receiver units might be a tad difficult. There's usually always
something in the way on the other side of the garage, and you can't
mount these things in midair to span just one bay.

Andrew



Careful use of a mirror in the middle? I'm not sure if it's IR
though
..andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl

Andrew McKay wrote in message ...
On Thu, 24 Jul 2003 01:57:47 +0100, Andy Hall
wrote:

OK. Mine level out horizontally too, but there's no problem getting
it to move by pushing the top. Do you have horizontal tracks as
part of the door mechanism? If so, are they aligned properly? I had
to adjust mine because the builder did not install correctly.

I'll check this out.

However, no horizontal tracks that I recall.

Andrew

Do you need a handyman service? Check out our
web site at http://www.handymac.co.uk
Andy, Canopy doors don't use horizontal tracks, only vertical. The fitting
instructions normally specify that the canopy door should not open fully. It
should have a gap of say 4" between the front of the door and the bottom of
the top of the frame. This is to give the door a downhill start when it
starts to close.
Regards
Capitol

Regards
Capitol

On Fri, 25 Jul 2003 01:24:27 +0100, "Capitol"
wrote:

Andy, Canopy doors don't use horizontal tracks, only vertical. The fitting
instructions normally specify that the canopy door should not open fully. It
should have a gap of say 4" between the front of the door and the bottom of
the top of the frame. This is to give the door a downhill start when it
starts to close.

If I did that then I'd have to bend down to get into the garage.

The instructions I have here (from Chamberlain) very clearly show the
door horizontal to the ceiling when fully open.

Andrew

Do you need a handyman service? Check out our
web site at http://www.handymac.co.uk

On Thu, 24 Jul 2003 23:23:50 +0100, Andy Hall
wrote:

Careful use of a mirror in the middle? I'm not sure if it's IR
though

Mounting the mirror would be the problem.

Andrew

Do you need a handyman service? Check out our
web site at http://www.handymac.co.uk

Further comments on this. Chamberlain appear to have lost all their business
in the US. They were the number 1 supplier. The last time I looked, Sears,
Home Depot, Menards & Lowes had all moved over to Genie screw driven
systems. I was unable to buy Chamberlain chain drive spares off the
shelf.(Although they are still available.) Be aware that this may happen
here. My own opener went obsolete 2 years after buying it.

Most photo cell systems operate as normally closed or normally open constant
current switches. It is sometimes possible to add a sensor to an existing
door controller if the electronics can be fiddled appropriately, but it is
not easy. I had to do this, using a Chamberlain photocell system, powered
off a walwart and with the output logic reversed. I don't recommend it. In
the US, there have been a number of children crushed under garage doors when
closing and current practice is always to fit the photo cell units which are
supplied as part of the fixing kit.
Regards
Capitol

"Capitol" wrote in message ...
Further comments on this. Chamberlain appear to have lost all their business
in the US. They were the number 1 supplier. The last time I looked, Sears,
Home Depot, Menards & Lowes had all moved over to Genie screw driven
systems. I was unable to buy Chamberlain chain drive spares off the
shelf.(Although they are still available.) Be aware that this may happen
here. My own opener went obsolete 2 years after buying it.

Most photo cell systems operate as normally closed or normally open constant
current switches. It is sometimes possible to add a sensor to an existing
door controller if the electronics can be fiddled appropriately, but it is
not easy. I had to do this, using a Chamberlain photocell system, powered
off a walwart and with the output logic reversed. I don't recommend it. In
the US, there have been a number of children crushed under garage doors when
closing and current practice is always to fit the photo cell units which are
supplied as part of the fixing kit.
Regards
Capitol

Chamberlain makes Sears openers under the Craftsman name &
they also make them under the Liftmaster name. Hence they
are the worlds largest garage door opener manufacturer.
Although they don't look the same they all use the same parts
inside.
Genie is now owned by the Overhead Door Corporation and
therefore those two operators are the same.
Both companies make chain drive, screw drive, and belt
drive operators however you may not see all three types in
some markets. Stores & garage door dealers tend to focus on
marketing only two or three models and while they can get any
of the models they usually do not stock them or they will
simply stock what they can get the best deal on at any
particular time.
Most openers that were made before UL-325 required photo-cells
on all openers in the United States are becoming obsolete since
manufacturers will no longer support these operators due to the
liability issues.
The photo-cells that come w/ the opener are to protect children
or other people from getting injured from a garage door and are
not there to protect vehicles. Per UL requirements the photo-cells
on both sides need to be 3"-5" off of the floor which will be
underneath the ends of vehicles. Therefore anyone that alters the
installation of these photo-cells are very open to some very serious
personal liability issues should heaven forbid that anything tragic
should happen. Once your insurance company learns of this they will
leaving you hanging out to dry in a heartbeat.