I've spent a couple of days removing manky old lath and plaster, rewiring
and replumbing.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/gw64fjiz7v...2013.jpeg?dl=1

My daughter was going to get a man in to plasterboard the wall and build a
new door frame for a new back door but having gone this far I'd like to see
it through myself.

I've not plasterboarded myself but can't see that it's gonna be too hard,
particularly if it gets a plaster coat on top.

Given that a) I might be working alone and b) the ceiling is 9ft high,
would I be best using 6x3ft sheets of PB?

Would I stagger the joins across wall using a 6 + 3 ft piece followed by 3
+ 6 ft piece?

For a kitchen/dining room (well away from sink & countertops) what
thickness and type of PB should I use?

Tim

--
Trolls and troll feeders go in my killfile

On 23/07/16 16:35, Tim+ wrote:
I've spent a couple of days removing manky old lath and plaster, rewiring
and replumbing.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/gw64fjiz7v...2013.jpeg?dl=1

My daughter was going to get a man in to plasterboard the wall and build a
new door frame for a new back door but having gone this far I'd like to see
it through myself.

I've not plasterboarded myself but can't see that it's gonna be too hard,
particularly if it gets a plaster coat on top.

Given that a) I might be working alone and b) the ceiling is 9ft high,
would I be best using 6x3ft sheets of PB?

Yes - I've just used these and they are very manageable. You can balance
one on your head whilst getting the first 3-4 screws in.


Would I stagger the joins across wall using a 6 + 3 ft piece followed by 3
+ 6 ft piece?

Yes.

And max centres of 450mm seem to be fine for ceilings for the 9.5mm IME
- but for walls you'd need closer batten spacing or go up to 12.5mm



For a kitchen/dining room (well away from sink & countertops) what
thickness and type of PB should I use?

9.5mm if you can get the battens close enough.

Do you need to achieve fire resistance to the room above? 2x 9.5mm is a
good way to do this (staggered joints).


Tim

jim k wrote:
Tim+ Wrote in message:
I've spent a couple of days removing manky old lath and plaster, rewiring
and replumbing.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/gw64fjiz7v...2013.jpeg?dl=1

My daughter was going to get a man in to plasterboard the wall and build a
new door frame for a new back door but having gone this far I'd like to see
it through myself.

I've not plasterboarded myself but can't see that it's gonna be too hard,
particularly if it gets a plaster coat on top.

Given that a) I might be working alone and b) the ceiling is 9ft high,
would I be best using 6x3ft sheets of PB?

Would I stagger the joins across wall using a 6 + 3 ft piece followed by 3
+ 6 ft piece?

For a kitchen/dining room (well away from sink & countertops) what
thickness and type of PB should I use?

Tim


You could use 6x3s but I'd bite the bullet and go for 8x4s of
12.5mm if you can handle/transport them.

Well I have no illusions as to my upper body strength. I have distance
runner's arms. ;-) Also, when it comes to transporting building materials
I've discovered that a Jaguar XF is absolute pants so it'll be getting
delivered.

Less joints, and as long
as your studwork is good, less potential for an undulating
"patchwork" which makes a skim much harder to do.

Warning noted.


Whichever size yes you need to stagger joints.

Okay.


I like taper edge to hide the scrim reinforcement. You may be
lucky to find 6x3s with taper edge...

I thought taper edged stuff was for walls that you're not going to skim?

It looks like B&Q do it though. What do you do about the horizontal joints
with regards to scrim?


What area we talking about?


Basically what you see in the photo. About 10 x 9 ft.

Thanks for the feedback.

Tim

--
Trolls AND TROLL FEEDERS all go in my kill file

Tim+ wrote:

when it comes to transporting building materials
I've discovered that a Jaguar XF is absolute pants so it'll be getting
delivered.

If getting them delivered, would 2700mmx1200 boards suit the height?

Tim Watts wrote:
On 23/07/16 16:35, Tim+ wrote:
I've spent a couple of days removing manky old lath and plaster, rewiring
and replumbing.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/gw64fjiz7v...2013.jpeg?dl=1

My daughter was going to get a man in to plasterboard the wall and build a
new door frame for a new back door but having gone this far I'd like to see
it through myself.

I've not plasterboarded myself but can't see that it's gonna be too hard,
particularly if it gets a plaster coat on top.

Given that a) I might be working alone and b) the ceiling is 9ft high,
would I be best using 6x3ft sheets of PB?

Yes - I've just used these and they are very manageable. You can balance
one on your head whilst getting the first 3-4 screws in.


Would I stagger the joins across wall using a 6 + 3 ft piece followed by 3
+ 6 ft piece?

Yes.

And max centres of 450mm seem to be fine for ceilings for the 9.5mm IME
- but for walls you'd need closer batten spacing or go up to 12.5mm.

Haven't checked the batten spacing yet. Guess I probably should. ;-)

For a kitchen/dining room (well away from sink & countertops) what
thickness and type of PB should I use?

9.5mm if you can get the battens close enough.

Do you need to achieve fire resistance to the room above? 2x 9.5mm is a
good way to do this (staggered joints).

Ah, good question. I guess it probably does what with it being a kitchen
and a separate flat upstairs. I guess this would apply to the ceiling as
well if/when I do it?

Tim

--
Trolls AND TROLL FEEDERS all go in my kill file

Tim+ Wrote in message:
I've spent a couple of days removing manky old lath and plaster, rewiring
and replumbing.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/gw64fjiz7v...2013.jpeg?dl=1

My daughter was going to get a man in to plasterboard the wall and build a
new door frame for a new back door but having gone this far I'd like to see
it through myself.

I've not plasterboarded myself but can't see that it's gonna be too hard,
particularly if it gets a plaster coat on top.

Given that a) I might be working alone and b) the ceiling is 9ft high,
would I be best using 6x3ft sheets of PB?

Would I stagger the joins across wall using a 6 + 3 ft piece followed by 3
+ 6 ft piece?

For a kitchen/dining room (well away from sink & countertops) what
thickness and type of PB should I use?

Tim


You could use 6x3s but I'd bite the bullet and go for 8x4s of
12.5mm if you can handle/transport them. Less joints, and as long
as your studwork is good, less potential for an undulating
"patchwork" which makes a skim much harder to do.

Whichever size yes you need to stagger joints.

I like taper edge to hide the scrim reinforcement. You may be
lucky to find 6x3s with taper edge...

What area we talking about?

--
Jim K


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

Tim+ Wrote in message:
jim k wrote:
Tim+ Wrote in message:
I've spent a couple of days removing manky old lath and plaster, rewiring
and replumbing.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/gw64fjiz7v...2013.jpeg?dl=1

My daughter was going to get a man in to plasterboard the wall and build a
new door frame for a new back door but having gone this far I'd like to see
it through myself.

I've not plasterboarded myself but can't see that it's gonna be too hard,
particularly if it gets a plaster coat on top.

Given that a) I might be working alone and b) the ceiling is 9ft high,
would I be best using 6x3ft sheets of PB?

Would I stagger the joins across wall using a 6 + 3 ft piece followed by 3
+ 6 ft piece?

For a kitchen/dining room (well away from sink & countertops) what
thickness and type of PB should I use?

Tim


You could use 6x3s but I'd bite the bullet and go for 8x4s of
12.5mm if you can handle/transport them.

Well I have no illusions as to my upper body strength. I have distance
runner's arms. ;-) Also, when it comes to transporting building materials
I've discovered that a Jaguar XF is absolute pants so it'll be getting
delivered.

Name drop noted.

Less joints, and as long
as your studwork is good, less potential for an undulating
"patchwork" which makes a skim much harder to do.

Warning noted.


Whichever size yes you need to stagger joints.

Okay.


I like taper edge to hide the scrim reinforcement. You may be
lucky to find 6x3s with taper edge...

I thought taper edged stuff was for walls that you're not going to skim?

Probly was designed for that but in "norma"l 8ft houses the lack
of taper on the short ends doesn't bother anyone :-)



It looks like B&Q do it though. What do you do about the horizontal joints
with regards to scrim?

Same as verticals ;-) without the taper...

Or use 8x4s horizontally? Save the small ~foot piece for the top...
Then a 2ft x 9ft hole to fill with the leftovers?

What area we talking about?


Basically what you see in the photo.
Didn't look

About 10 x 9 ft.

3 sheets 8x4? Friend with decent car w roof rack, dry day?

--
Jim K


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

being a
kitchen and a separate flat upstairs. I guess this would apply to the
ceiling as well if/when I do it?

Tim


.....or is it one of those jobs that a professional wouuld simply eat and
have it done perfectly in a few hours whilst you are struggling with broken
sheets?

On Saturday, 23 July 2016 17:48:58 UTC+1, Tim+ wrote:
Tim Watts wrote:
On 23/07/16 16:35, Tim+ wrote:
I've spent a couple of days removing manky old lath and plaster, rewiring
and replumbing.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/gw64fjiz7v...2013.jpeg?dl=1

My daughter was going to get a man in to plasterboard the wall and build a
new door frame for a new back door but having gone this far I'd like to see
it through myself.

I've not plasterboarded myself but can't see that it's gonna be too hard,
particularly if it gets a plaster coat on top.

Given that a) I might be working alone and b) the ceiling is 9ft high,
would I be best using 6x3ft sheets of PB?

Yes - I've just used these and they are very manageable. You can balance
one on your head whilst getting the first 3-4 screws in.

Yes. I've done it with 8x4s but smaller is a good bit easier.

Would I stagger the joins across wall using a 6 + 3 ft piece followed by 3
+ 6 ft piece?

Yes.

any way you like, as long as it's all covered and there are no thin strips.


And max centres of 450mm seem to be fine for ceilings for the 9.5mm IME
- but for walls you'd need closer batten spacing or go up to 12.5mm.

I would never consider 9mm on walls. 12 is far more robust and very little more cost.

Haven't checked the batten spacing yet. Guess I probably should. ;-)

12mm works with any normal spacing

For a kitchen/dining room (well away from sink & countertops) what
thickness and type of PB should I use?

9.5mm if you can get the battens close enough.

definitely not, use 12 on walls minimum. 9 is weak & offers near zero sound stopping.

Re noise, even with 12mm you'll find the soundproofing rather inadequate. One easy way is to slap a load of wet plaster on the rear PB before fitting the front PB, with the aim of making the rear leaf thick & heavy.

Do you need to achieve fire resistance to the room above? 2x 9.5mm is a
good way to do this (staggered joints).

Ah, good question. I guess it probably does what with it being a kitchen
and a separate flat upstairs. I guess this would apply to the ceiling as
well if/when I do it?

In that case you need good fire & sound resistance. A sheet of PB absolutely won't cut it on either point.


NT

On 23/07/2016 17:48, jim wrote:
Tim+ Wrote in message:
jim k wrote:
Tim+ Wrote in message:
I've spent a couple of days removing manky old lath and plaster, rewiring
and replumbing.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/gw64fjiz7v...2013.jpeg?dl=1

My daughter was going to get a man in to plasterboard the wall and build a
new door frame for a new back door but having gone this far I'd like to see
it through myself.

I've not plasterboarded myself but can't see that it's gonna be too hard,
particularly if it gets a plaster coat on top.

Given that a) I might be working alone and b) the ceiling is 9ft high,
would I be best using 6x3ft sheets of PB?

Would I stagger the joins across wall using a 6 + 3 ft piece followed by 3
+ 6 ft piece?

For a kitchen/dining room (well away from sink & countertops) what
thickness and type of PB should I use?

Tim


You could use 6x3s but I'd bite the bullet and go for 8x4s of
12.5mm if you can handle/transport them.

Well I have no illusions as to my upper body strength. I have distance
runner's arms. ;-) Also, when it comes to transporting building materials
I've discovered that a Jaguar XF is absolute pants so it'll be getting
delivered.

Name drop noted.

Less joints, and as long
as your studwork is good, less potential for an undulating
"patchwork" which makes a skim much harder to do.

Warning noted.


Whichever size yes you need to stagger joints.

Okay.


I like taper edge to hide the scrim reinforcement. You may be
lucky to find 6x3s with taper edge...

I thought taper edged stuff was for walls that you're not going to skim?

Probly was designed for that but in "norma"l 8ft houses the lack
of taper on the short ends doesn't bother anyone :-)



It looks like B&Q do it though. What do you do about the horizontal joints
with regards to scrim?

Same as verticals ;-) without the taper...

Or use 8x4s horizontally? Save the small ~foot piece for the top...
Then a 2ft x 9ft hole to fill with the leftovers?

What area we talking about?


Basically what you see in the photo.
Didn't look

About 10 x 9 ft.


3 sheets 8x4? Friend with decent car w roof rack, dry day?


They do make PB in 3 metre lengths. But you'd probably need to buy
a pallet load.

Horizontally staggered 6x3, with the long side horizontal may be the
best way, and secure the unsupported vertical joint that is not
coterminous with a batten with a bit of freestanding OSB fixed with
PB screws to avoid cracks in the skim.

On 23/07/2016 18:20, DerbyBorn wrote:
being a
kitchen and a separate flat upstairs. I guess this would apply to the
ceiling as well if/when I do it?

Tim


....or is it one of those jobs that a professional wouuld simply eat and
have it done perfectly in a few hours whilst you are struggling with broken
sheets?


No. Why would the sheets become broken, when new plasterboard has some
flexibility ?.

If the existing timer uprights are way off plumb then add another set of
correctly spaced horizonal noggins cut to fit the gaps
between the verticals but aligned horizintally to give a flat wall.

DerbyBorn wrote:
being a
kitchen and a separate flat upstairs. I guess this would apply to the
ceiling as well if/when I do it?

Tim


....or is it one of those jobs that a professional wouuld simply eat and
have it done perfectly in a few hours whilst you are struggling with broken
sheets?


Very probably, assuming you can get one who will answer your calls, come
when expected, organise the sparky to sort sockets/switches etc.

This is a D I Y group isn't it?

Tim

--
Trolls and troll feeders go in my killfile

Andrew wrote:

They do make PB in 3 metre lengths. But you'd probably need to buy
a pallet load.

No, SIG insulation sell the 2.7 and 3.0 boards in singles, you'll
probably get hit for a delivery charge though unless you're buying other
stuff from them (e.g. you might consider buying resilient bars for sound
isolation of the ceiling boards if there's a flat upstairs)

Andrew wrote:


Horizontally staggered 6x3, with the long side horizontal may be the
best way, and secure the unsupported vertical joint that is not
coterminous with a batten with a bit of freestanding OSB fixed with
PB screws to avoid cracks in the skim.

I was wondering about that. I had thought about just putting in another
batten but OSB sounds easier.

Ta.

Tim

--
Trolls AND TROLL FEEDERS all go in my kill file

jim k wrote:

About 10 x 9 ft.

3 sheets 8x4? Friend with decent car w roof rack, dry day?

None available alas.

Tim

--
Trolls AND TROLL FEEDERS all go in my kill file

On 23/07/2016 16:35, Tim+ wrote:
I've spent a couple of days removing manky old lath and plaster, rewiring
and replumbing.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/gw64fjiz7v...2013.jpeg?dl=1

My daughter was going to get a man in to plasterboard the wall and build a
new door frame for a new back door but having gone this far I'd like to see
it through myself.

I've not plasterboarded myself but can't see that it's gonna be too hard,
particularly if it gets a plaster coat on top.

Plasterboard is very easy to do. You need a long straight edge, and a
knife for scoring and snapping, small saw for awkward cut-outs etc. A
box of suitable length PB screws, a powered driver with a cowled PB
driving bit in the end.

Cut to shape, offer into place and stick in a screw to fix it, then slap
in the remaining screws every 600mm or so.

Given that a) I might be working alone and b) the ceiling is 9ft high,
would I be best using 6x3ft sheets of PB?

They are easier to handle, but there is not much in it to be fair. I
managed about 50 sheets of 8x4 mostly by myself when I did my loft at
the last place.

(smaller sheets are better if you are working in confined or low height
spaces)

Would I stagger the joins across wall using a 6 + 3 ft piece followed by 3
+ 6 ft piece?

My personal preference is to lay the boards with the long axis
horizontal, and then stagger the next one up so the joins don't all end
on the same stud. With 6x3 boards you could do in effect what looks like
three courses of stretcher bond.

For a kitchen/dining room (well away from sink & countertops) what
thickness and type of PB should I use?

12.5 mm, If skimming, then just get square edge. Leave slight gaps
(couple of mm) when fitting the boards. Cover the joints with fibreglass
scrim tape before plastering.

(if you were just planning to fill and sand, then you are better off
with taper edge boards, long axis vertical, and each board in line, you
you have nice long straight joins to fill).


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

John Rumm wrote:

Plasterboard is very easy to do. You need a long straight edge, and a
knife for scoring and snapping, small saw for awkward cut-outs

A small surform plane is very useful for shaving the edges to make minor
adjustments ...

On 23/07/2016 19:55, wrote:
On Saturday, 23 July 2016 17:48:58 UTC+1, Tim+ wrote:

Do you need to achieve fire resistance to the room above? 2x
9.5mm is a good way to do this (staggered joints).

Ah, good question. I guess it probably does what with it being a
kitchen and a separate flat upstairs. I guess this would apply to
the ceiling as well if/when I do it?

In that case you need good fire & sound resistance. A sheet of PB
absolutely won't cut it on either point.

ISTR recall that a sheet of 12.5mm with skim will meet fire regs for a
ceiling.



--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On Saturday, 23 July 2016 22:01:39 UTC+1, John Rumm wrote:
On 23/07/2016 19:55, tabbypurr wrote:
On Saturday, 23 July 2016 17:48:58 UTC+1, Tim+ wrote:

Do you need to achieve fire resistance to the room above? 2x
9.5mm is a good way to do this (staggered joints).

Ah, good question. I guess it probably does what with it being a
kitchen and a separate flat upstairs. I guess this would apply to
the ceiling as well if/when I do it?

In that case you need good fire & sound resistance. A sheet of PB
absolutely won't cut it on either point.

ISTR recall that a sheet of 12.5mm with skim will meet fire regs for a
ceiling.

within a house yes, I don't think between flats though.


NT

On Sat, 23 Jul 2016 21:58:35 +0100, Andy Burns wrote:

John Rumm wrote:

Plasterboard is very easy to do. You need a long straight edge, and a
knife for scoring and snapping, small saw for awkward cut-outs

A small surform plane is very useful for shaving the edges to make minor
adjustments ...

This beastie?
http://www.stanleytools.com/en-us/pr...-shaver/21-115
--
Peter.
The gods will stay away
whilst religions hold sway

---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus

On 23/07/2016 21:56, John Rumm wrote:

Given that a) I might be working alone and b) the ceiling is 9ft high,
would I be best using 6x3ft sheets of PB?

They are easier to handle, but there is not much in it to be fair. I
managed about 50 sheets of 8x4 mostly by myself when I did my loft at
the last place.


FSVO "not much". 12.5mm Gyproc:

8x4 is 24 kg
6x3 is 14 kg

Though I admit that for us weedy, doddering titches without arms like
orang-utans there's
http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Hand+Tools/d10/Clamps/sd10/Roughneck+Plasterboard+Carrier/p60073
--
Robin
reply-to address is (intended to be) valid

PeterC wrote:

Andy Burns wrote:

A small surform plane is very useful for shaving the edges to make minor
adjustments ...

This beastie?
http://www.stanleytools.com/en-us/pr...-shaver/21-115

That looks a bit too short to keep flat, I have this one

http://www.stanleytools.com/products/hand-tools/woodworking-tools/planes/6-in-surform174-pocket-plane/21-399

On Saturday, 23 July 2016 16:35:22 UTC+1, Tim+ wrote:
I've spent a couple of days removing manky old lath and plaster, rewiring
and replumbing.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/gw64fjiz7v...2013.jpeg?dl=1

My daughter was going to get a man in to plasterboard the wall and build a
new door frame for a new back door but having gone this far I'd like to see
it through myself.

I've not plasterboarded myself but can't see that it's gonna be too hard,
particularly if it gets a plaster coat on top.

Given that a) I might be working alone and b) the ceiling is 9ft high,
would I be best using 6x3ft sheets of PB?

The idea of staggering joints was that the abutted boards crack in time and will do so more easily with a matching line all the way up. Just leave a wide enough gap between the boards to allow you to press plaster in between when you plaster (a nail width is plenty) the heads of clouts will serve to hold the board in place while you get a fix in. Then the modern fibreglass tape should prevent cracking -or not as the case may be.

Would I stagger the joins across wall using a 6 + 3 ft piece followed by 3
+ 6 ft piece?

For a kitchen/dining room (well away from sink & countertops) what
thickness and type of PB should I use?

You are governed by the imperial measurements used in the construction. What size are the studs and how far apart are they?
Then work out how easily you can cope with the boards.

All you need to do to overcome the studding problem is insert an extra stud every so often. Alternatively you can put timber across the studs and use any measurement to suit yourself.

The thin boards are lighter and less able to cope with bending. But how big is a wall that you have to worry bout a sheet breaking occasionally?
Can you get it in the room no problem?
You can buy huge sheets and cut them to suit outside if the weather is nice.. But the more expensive smaller boards will make new experience more pleasant, it may even be fun.

Either way, a disaster will be slightly easier to cope with, well worth the cost.

Just cut and place every board ready for screwing in place. Put all the wiring in first and the insulation etcetera. Keep them 1/2" off the floor to stop damage from floor-boards bouncing. That is all there is to it.

On Sunday, 24 July 2016 12:24:47 UTC+1, Weatherlawyer wrote:
On Saturday, 23 July 2016 16:35:22 UTC+1, Tim+ wrote:
I've spent a couple of days removing manky old lath and plaster, rewiring
and replumbing.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/gw64fjiz7v...2013.jpeg?dl=1

My daughter was going to get a man in to plasterboard the wall and build a
new door frame for a new back door but having gone this far I'd like to see
it through myself.

I've not plasterboarded myself but can't see that it's gonna be too hard,
particularly if it gets a plaster coat on top.

Given that a) I might be working alone and b) the ceiling is 9ft high,
would I be best using 6x3ft sheets of PB?

The idea of staggering joints was that the abutted boards crack in time and will do so more easily with a matching line all the way up. Just leave a wide enough gap between the boards to allow you to press plaster in between when you plaster (a nail width is plenty) the heads of clouts will serve to hold the board in place while you get a fix in. Then the modern fibreglass tape should prevent cracking -or not as the case may be.

I'd definitely screw rather than nail.

Would I stagger the joins across wall using a 6 + 3 ft piece followed by 3
+ 6 ft piece?

For a kitchen/dining room (well away from sink & countertops) what
thickness and type of PB should I use?

You are governed by the imperial measurements used in the construction. What size are the studs and how far apart are they?
Then work out how easily you can cope with the boards.

All you need to do to overcome the studding problem is insert an extra stud every so often. Alternatively you can put timber across the studs and use any measurement to suit yourself.

What problem is being addressed there, the L&P nailheads? You'd lose space by adding more wood on top, and there's timber cost, versus labour removing or flattening the nails. Pick your evil.

The thin boards are lighter and less able to cope with bending. But how big is a wall that you have to worry bout a sheet breaking occasionally?

nonsequitor. Why choose sheets that break occasionally, there's a gnat's whisker of cost difference.

Can you get it in the room no problem?

I doubt the OP would have started the job if he can't

You can buy huge sheets and cut them to suit outside if the weather is nice. But the more expensive smaller boards will make new experience more pleasant,

it may even be fun.

or not


Either way, a disaster will be slightly easier to cope with, well worth the cost.

que?

Just cut and place every board ready for screwing in place.

Makes a lot more sense to put a screw in to keep it there as soon as it's ready.

Put all the wiring in first and the insulation etcetera. Keep them 1/2" off the floor to stop damage from floor-boards bouncing.

any such damage would only affect the pb edges where it meets the boards. It's practical enough to board down to the floor and omit skirting.


That is all there is to it.

noise, fire, smoke, choice of board edges...
I can't imagine any situation where I'd fit pb without sound blocking in my own building nowadays. It's trivially easy to make a big difference.


NT

On 24/07/2016 10:03, Robin wrote:
On 23/07/2016 21:56, John Rumm wrote:

Given that a) I might be working alone and b) the ceiling is 9ft high,
would I be best using 6x3ft sheets of PB?

They are easier to handle, but there is not much in it to be fair. I
managed about 50 sheets of 8x4 mostly by myself when I did my loft at
the last place.


FSVO "not much". 12.5mm Gyproc:

8x4 is 24 kg
6x3 is 14 kg

Though I admit that for us weedy, doddering titches without arms like
orang-utans there's
http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Hand+Tools/d10/Clamps/sd10/Roughneck+Plasterboard+Carrier/p60073

Yup those are good for toting boards of any type about.

If you need to PB a ceiling, then make one of:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/Dead_man_prop




--
Cheers,

John.

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On Sunday, 24 July 2016 12:41:14 UTC+1, wrote:
On Sunday, 24 July 2016 12:24:47 UTC+1, Weatherlawyer wrote:
On Saturday, 23 July 2016 16:35:22 UTC+1, Tim+ wrote:
I've spent a couple of days removing manky old lath and plaster, rewiring
and replumbing.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/gw64fjiz7v...2013.jpeg?dl=1

My daughter was going to get a man in to plasterboard the wall and build a
new door frame for a new back door but having gone this far I'd like to see
it through myself.

I've not plasterboarded myself but can't see that it's gonna be too hard,
particularly if it gets a plaster coat on top.

Given that a) I might be working alone and b) the ceiling is 9ft high,
would I be best using 6x3ft sheets of PB?

The idea of staggering joints was that the abutted boards crack in time and will do so more easily with a matching line all the way up. Just leave a wide enough gap between the boards to allow you to press plaster in between when you plaster (a nail width is plenty) the heads of clouts will serve to hold the board in place while you get a fix in. Then the modern fibreglass tape should prevent cracking -or not as the case may be.

I'd definitely screw rather than nail.

Would I stagger the joins across wall using a 6 + 3 ft piece followed by 3
+ 6 ft piece?

For a kitchen/dining room (well away from sink & countertops) what
thickness and type of PB should I use?

You are governed by the imperial measurements used in the construction. What size are the studs and how far apart are they?
Then work out how easily you can cope with the boards.

All you need to do to overcome the studding problem is insert an extra stud every so often. Alternatively you can put timber across the studs and use any measurement to suit yourself.

What problem is being addressed there, the L&P nailheads? You'd lose space by adding more wood on top, and there's timber cost, versus labour removing or flattening the nails. Pick your evil.

The thin boards are lighter and less able to cope with bending. But how big is a wall that you have to worry bout a sheet breaking occasionally?

nonsequitor. Why choose sheets that break occasionally, there's a gnat's whisker of cost difference.

Can you get it in the room no problem?

I doubt the OP would have started the job if he can't

You can buy huge sheets and cut them to suit outside if the weather is nice. But the more expensive smaller boards will make new experience more pleasant,

it may even be fun.

or not


Either way, a disaster will be slightly easier to cope with, well worth the cost.

que?

Just cut and place every board ready for screwing in place.

Makes a lot more sense to put a screw in to keep it there as soon as it's ready.

Put all the wiring in first and the insulation etcetera. Keep them 1/2" off the floor to stop damage from floor-boards bouncing.

any such damage would only affect the pb edges where it meets the boards. It's practical enough to board down to the floor and omit skirting.


That is all there is to it.

noise, fire, smoke, choice of board edges...
I can't imagine any situation where I'd fit pb without sound blocking in my own building nowadays. It's trivially easy to make a big difference.


NuxTelligencia

Whatever you decide to do Tim, don't read anymore advice from this child. He has never tried it himself.

Tim+ wrote:
I've spent a couple of days removing manky old lath and plaster,
rewiring and replumbing.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/gw64fjiz7v...2013.jpeg?dl=1

My daughter was going to get a man in to plasterboard the wall and
build a new door frame for a new back door but having gone this far
I'd like to see it through myself.

I've not plasterboarded myself but can't see that it's gonna be too
hard, particularly if it gets a plaster coat on top.

Given that a) I might be working alone and b) the ceiling is 9ft high,
would I be best using 6x3ft sheets of PB?

Would I stagger the joins across wall using a 6 + 3 ft piece followed
by 3 + 6 ft piece?

For a kitchen/dining room (well away from sink & countertops) what
thickness and type of PB should I use?

Tim

If you are replacing the ceiling, pull this down and board it first, for
fire regs, it will need two sheets of 12.5mm. use 6x3's as 8x4 are too
heavy, also use 50mm screws so as to fix through both sheets.

for the walls, use 12.5mm for strength.

In all cases, make sure all the joists are denailed, even one old nail is
enough to make a complete ******** of the new boards, to do this, do one
joist at a time and then run the hammer along it's length and then be
surprised at how many you've missed.

Mark the centre of the ceiling joists on the walls with a pencil so that you
can see where to screw when plating, likewise, mark on the ceiling (after
it's boarded) where the wall joists are....you don't need to mark the floor
as you should raise the wall boards up an inch or two (skirtings will cover
this) this prevents damp/moisture from tracking up from the floor.

Don't leave any flapping edges, cut the boards to land in the centre of a
joist. Stagger the joints as best you can, but don't waste masses of
plasterboard in an attempt ot do so, there's always going to be one long
joint as you can't stagger them both ways. make sure the screw heads are
driven slightly below the surface of the PB but don't rag them straight
through or they will be doing nothing, set your screwdriver's torque to the
required setting and be prepared to adjust this accordingly as the power
drains out of it, have a spare battery on charge at all times

On 24/07/2016 12:44, John Rumm wrote:
On 24/07/2016 10:03, Robin wrote:
On 23/07/2016 21:56, John Rumm wrote:

Given that a) I might be working alone and b) the ceiling is 9ft high,
would I be best using 6x3ft sheets of PB?

They are easier to handle, but there is not much in it to be fair. I
managed about 50 sheets of 8x4 mostly by myself when I did my loft at
the last place.


FSVO "not much". 12.5mm Gyproc:

8x4 is 24 kg
6x3 is 14 kg

Though I admit that for us weedy, doddering titches without arms like
orang-utans there's
http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Hand+Tools/d10/Clamps/sd10/Roughneck+Plasterboard+Carrier/p60073


Yup those are good for toting boards of any type about.

If you need to PB a ceiling, then make one of:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/Dead_man_prop


I bought one of these, meaning to sell it on once I'd finished:

http://www.toolandfix.com/silverline...p-115-29m.html

Highly recommend, especially if you're doing a ceiling alone. As I was
boarding over an existing L+P ceiling, the ratchet also serves to push
the board up/in nicely.

In the event, it's come in useful for a variety of prop-like duties,


--
Cheers, Rob

On 7/23/2016 5:23 PM, jim wrote:
Tim+ Wrote in message:
I've spent a couple of days removing manky old lath and plaster, rewiring
and replumbing.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/gw64fjiz7v...2013.jpeg?dl=1

My daughter was going to get a man in to plasterboard the wall and build a
new door frame for a new back door but having gone this far I'd like to see
it through myself.

I've not plasterboarded myself but can't see that it's gonna be too hard,
particularly if it gets a plaster coat on top.

Given that a) I might be working alone and b) the ceiling is 9ft high,
would I be best using 6x3ft sheets of PB?

Would I stagger the joins across wall using a 6 + 3 ft piece followed by 3
+ 6 ft piece?

For a kitchen/dining room (well away from sink & countertops) what
thickness and type of PB should I use?

Tim


You could use 6x3s but I'd bite the bullet and go for 8x4s of
12.5mm if you can handle/transport them. Less joints, and as long
as your studwork is good, less potential for an undulating
"patchwork" which makes a skim much harder to do.

Whichever size yes you need to stagger joints.

I like taper edge to hide the scrim reinforcement. You may be
lucky to find 6x3s with taper edge...

What area we talking about?

You don't need to be doing a very large area to justify getting one of these

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Dry-Wall-P...AOSwZG9Wjhx b

particularly as you will probably be able to get £50 for it afterwards
on eBay or Gumtree.

(I'm guessing that hiring one wouldn't be cost effective).

John Rumm wrote:
On 24/07/2016 10:03, Robin wrote:
On 23/07/2016 21:56, John Rumm wrote:

Given that a) I might be working alone and b) the ceiling is 9ft high,
would I be best using 6x3ft sheets of PB?

They are easier to handle, but there is not much in it to be fair. I
managed about 50 sheets of 8x4 mostly by myself when I did my loft at
the last place.


FSVO "not much". 12.5mm Gyproc:

8x4 is 24 kg
6x3 is 14 kg

Though I admit that for us weedy, doddering titches without arms like
orang-utans there's
http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Hand+Tools/d10/Clamps/sd10/Roughneck+Plasterboard+Carrier/p60073

Yup those are good for toting boards of any type about.

If you need to PB a ceiling, then make one of:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/Dead_man_prop





Not sure about "offering a board up" to a 9ft high ceiling on my own.

This looks more like my kind of toy. ;-)

https://www.manomano.co.uk/plasterin...IqcRoC3QXw_wcB

Tim

--
Trolls and troll feeders go in my killfile

On Sun, 24 Jul 2016 11:02:06 +0100, Andy Burns wrote:

PeterC wrote:

Andy Burns wrote:

A small surform plane is very useful for shaving the edges to make minor
adjustments ...

This beastie?
http://www.stanleytools.com/en-us/pr...-shaver/21-115

That looks a bit too short to keep flat, I have this one

Yes, but for the awkward little irregularities it's very good.

http://www.stanleytools.com/products/hand-tools/woodworking-tools/planes/6-in-surform174-pocket-plane/21-399

That looks useful. I've one that's rather longer and it's too 'flat' for
some bits.
--
Peter.
The gods will stay away
whilst religions hold sway

---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus

On 24/07/2016 16:37, Tim+ wrote:

Not sure about "offering a board up" to a 9ft high ceiling on my own.

This looks more like my kind of toy. ;-)

https://www.manomano.co.uk/plasterin...IqcRoC3QXw_wcB


FWIW I've been told that with some at least of those cheap hoists the
orientation of the panel in relation to the feet is fixed, so it may be
impossible to get the panel flush to the wall.


--
Robin
reply-to address is (intended to be) valid

On Sunday, 24 July 2016 12:44:01 UTC+1, John Rumm wrote:
On 24/07/2016 10:03, Robin wrote:
On 23/07/2016 21:56, John Rumm wrote:

Given that a) I might be working alone and b) the ceiling is 9ft high,
would I be best using 6x3ft sheets of PB?

They are easier to handle, but there is not much in it to be fair. I
managed about 50 sheets of 8x4 mostly by myself when I did my loft at
the last place.


FSVO "not much". 12.5mm Gyproc:

8x4 is 24 kg
6x3 is 14 kg

Though I admit that for us weedy, doddering titches without arms like
orang-utans there's
http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Hand+Tools/d10/Clamps/sd10/Roughneck+Plasterboard+Carrier/p60073

Yup those are good for toting boards of any type about.

If you need to PB a ceiling, then make one of:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/Dead_man_prop

or just use a piece of 2 by half.


NT

On Sunday, 24 July 2016 13:22:04 UTC+1, Weatherlawyer wrote:
On Sunday, 24 July 2016 12:41:14 UTC+1, tabbypurr wrote:
On Sunday, 24 July 2016 12:24:47 UTC+1, Weatherlawyer wrote:
On Saturday, 23 July 2016 16:35:22 UTC+1, Tim+ wrote:

I've spent a couple of days removing manky old lath and plaster, rewiring
and replumbing.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/gw64fjiz7v...2013.jpeg?dl=1

My daughter was going to get a man in to plasterboard the wall and build a
new door frame for a new back door but having gone this far I'd like to see
it through myself.

I've not plasterboarded myself but can't see that it's gonna be too hard,
particularly if it gets a plaster coat on top.

Given that a) I might be working alone and b) the ceiling is 9ft high,
would I be best using 6x3ft sheets of PB?

The idea of staggering joints was that the abutted boards crack in time and will do so more easily with a matching line all the way up. Just leave a wide enough gap between the boards to allow you to press plaster in between when you plaster (a nail width is plenty) the heads of clouts will serve to hold the board in place while you get a fix in. Then the modern fibreglass tape should prevent cracking -or not as the case may be.

I'd definitely screw rather than nail.

Would I stagger the joins across wall using a 6 + 3 ft piece followed by 3
+ 6 ft piece?

For a kitchen/dining room (well away from sink & countertops) what
thickness and type of PB should I use?

You are governed by the imperial measurements used in the construction. What size are the studs and how far apart are they?
Then work out how easily you can cope with the boards.

All you need to do to overcome the studding problem is insert an extra stud every so often. Alternatively you can put timber across the studs and use any measurement to suit yourself.

What problem is being addressed there, the L&P nailheads? You'd lose space by adding more wood on top, and there's timber cost, versus labour removing or flattening the nails. Pick your evil.

The thin boards are lighter and less able to cope with bending. But how big is a wall that you have to worry bout a sheet breaking occasionally?

nonsequitor. Why choose sheets that break occasionally, there's a gnat's whisker of cost difference.

Can you get it in the room no problem?

I doubt the OP would have started the job if he can't

You can buy huge sheets and cut them to suit outside if the weather is nice. But the more expensive smaller boards will make new experience more pleasant,

it may even be fun.

or not


Either way, a disaster will be slightly easier to cope with, well worth the cost.

que?

Just cut and place every board ready for screwing in place.

Makes a lot more sense to put a screw in to keep it there as soon as it's ready.

Put all the wiring in first and the insulation etcetera. Keep them 1/2" off the floor to stop damage from floor-boards bouncing.

any such damage would only affect the pb edges where it meets the boards. It's practical enough to board down to the floor and omit skirting.


That is all there is to it.

noise, fire, smoke, choice of board edges...
I can't imagine any situation where I'd fit pb without sound blocking in my own building nowadays. It's trivially easy to make a big difference.


NuxTelligencia

Whatever you decide to do Tim, don't read anymore advice from this child. He has never tried it himself.

Lol. Too funny. And I did not write 'NuxTelligencia,' you misquote.

wrote:
Lol. Too funny. And I did not write 'NuxTelligencia,' you misquote.

You're wasting your time with weatherlawyer, he lost his marbles about 12
months ago and has been getting steadily worse, his only pastime now is
trolling groups making nonsensical posts and insulting people

On Sunday, 24 July 2016 17:35:30 UTC+1, Phil L wrote:
tabbypurr wrote:

Lol. Too funny. And I did not write 'NuxTelligencia,' you misquote.

You're wasting your time with weatherlawyer, he lost his marbles about 12
months ago and has been getting steadily worse, his only pastime now is
trolling groups making nonsensical posts and insulting people

Yeah. Shows how lucky we are really.


NT

On 24/07/2016 16:37, Tim+ wrote:
John Rumm wrote:
On 24/07/2016 10:03, Robin wrote:
On 23/07/2016 21:56, John Rumm wrote:

Given that a) I might be working alone and b) the ceiling is 9ft high,
would I be best using 6x3ft sheets of PB?

They are easier to handle, but there is not much in it to be fair. I
managed about 50 sheets of 8x4 mostly by myself when I did my loft at
the last place.


FSVO "not much". 12.5mm Gyproc:

8x4 is 24 kg
6x3 is 14 kg

Though I admit that for us weedy, doddering titches without arms like
orang-utans there's
http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Hand+Tools/d10/Clamps/sd10/Roughneck+Plasterboard+Carrier/p60073

Yup those are good for toting boards of any type about.

If you need to PB a ceiling, then make one of:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/Dead_man_prop





Not sure about "offering a board up" to a 9ft high ceiling on my own.

Once you are working on a ceiling you can't reach from the floor, the
actual height does not make that much difference (within reason!) I found.

It helps to have a platform of some form to work from (a hop up, box,
create etc, or a couple of scaffold boards supported on something
appropriate).

Basically if you can get a board balanced above your head briefly, then
its quite easy to get the prop under it and let it take the weight. Then
its just a case of positioning it, before pulling the prop in a bit
tighter (the "spring" you get from the bendyness of the prop makes this
very easy - you can choose how hard it pushes up).


This looks more like my kind of toy. ;-)

https://www.manomano.co.uk/plasterin...IqcRoC3QXw_wcB

Tis very pretty, and I am sure it will do a splendid job.

To be fair I was sceptical about the wood prop when a builder mate of
mine suggested it. I was surprised how well it actually worked. Also on
the bright sire it only cost a couple of quid, and I got to use it for
something else when I was done with it.

--
Cheers,

John.

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| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
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| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 24/07/2016 17:14, wrote:
On Sunday, 24 July 2016 12:44:01 UTC+1, John Rumm wrote:
On 24/07/2016 10:03, Robin wrote:
On 23/07/2016 21:56, John Rumm wrote:

Given that a) I might be working alone and b) the ceiling is 9ft high,
would I be best using 6x3ft sheets of PB?

They are easier to handle, but there is not much in it to be fair. I
managed about 50 sheets of 8x4 mostly by myself when I did my loft at
the last place.


FSVO "not much". 12.5mm Gyproc:

8x4 is 24 kg
6x3 is 14 kg

Though I admit that for us weedy, doddering titches without arms like
orang-utans there's
http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Hand+Tools/d10/Clamps/sd10/Roughneck+Plasterboard+Carrier/p60073

Yup those are good for toting boards of any type about.

If you need to PB a ceiling, then make one of:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/Dead_man_prop

or just use a piece of 2 by half.

Having the tee bar stops it marking the board...


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On Monday, 25 July 2016 10:49:26 UTC+1, John Rumm wrote:
On 24/07/2016 17:14, tabbypurr wrote:
On Sunday, 24 July 2016 12:44:01 UTC+1, John Rumm wrote:
On 24/07/2016 10:03, Robin wrote:
On 23/07/2016 21:56, John Rumm wrote:

Given that a) I might be working alone and b) the ceiling is 9ft high,
would I be best using 6x3ft sheets of PB?

They are easier to handle, but there is not much in it to be fair. I
managed about 50 sheets of 8x4 mostly by myself when I did my loft at
the last place.


FSVO "not much". 12.5mm Gyproc:

8x4 is 24 kg
6x3 is 14 kg

Though I admit that for us weedy, doddering titches without arms like
orang-utans there's
http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Hand+Tools/d10/Clamps/sd10/Roughneck+Plasterboard+Carrier/p60073

Yup those are good for toting boards of any type about.

If you need to PB a ceiling, then make one of:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/Dead_man_prop

or just use a piece of 2 by half.

Having the tee bar stops it marking the board...

Yes, I put a short bit of 2x.5 across the top on mine. I think there's a wiki page that explains it. If someone's going to skim I don't expect it matters.


NT

On 7/23/2016 4:35 PM, Tim+ wrote:
I've spent a couple of days removing manky old lath and plaster, rewiring
and replumbing.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/gw64fjiz7v...2013.jpeg?dl=1

My daughter was going to get a man in to plasterboard the wall and build a
new door frame for a new back door but having gone this far I'd like to see
it through myself.

I've not plasterboarded myself but can't see that it's gonna be too hard,
particularly if it gets a plaster coat on top.

Given that a) I might be working alone and b) the ceiling is 9ft high,
would I be best using 6x3ft sheets of PB?

Would I stagger the joins across wall using a 6 + 3 ft piece followed by 3
+ 6 ft piece?

For a kitchen/dining room (well away from sink & countertops) what
thickness and type of PB should I use?

Tim

I'd stick to 8x4 and split them if need be for your handling to 4x4
For a wall use 12mm and for ceiling 9.5mm
Stagger all joints.