Hi,

I appreciate you can level individual batterns horizontally /
vertically using a spirit level or similar, but if the walls are bumpy
and irregular, how do you level the whole support across large spans
so that the plasterboard sits perfectly across the length and breadth
of the wall?

Do you fit spacers or something - I've been pondering the best method
but if there's a correct way to carry this out?

tester wrote:
Hi,

I appreciate you can level individual batterns horizontally /
vertically using a spirit level or similar, but if the walls are bumpy
and irregular, how do you level the whole support across large spans
so that the plasterboard sits perfectly across the length and breadth
of the wall?

Do you fit spacers or something - I've been pondering the best method
but if there's a correct way to carry this out?

I've never done it to be honest, but spacers are very useful for all sorts
of jobs. http://www.toolstation.com/search.html?searchstr=46640


--
Dave
The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
01634 717930
07850 597257

tester wrote:
Hi,

I appreciate you can level individual batterns horizontally /
vertically using a spirit level or similar, but if the walls are bumpy
and irregular, how do you level the whole support across large spans
so that the plasterboard sits perfectly across the length and breadth
of the wall?

Do you fit spacers or something - I've been pondering the best method
but if there's a correct way to carry this out?

It's easier to level everything with a skim coat of plaster. You can
pack battens with bits of hardboard or whatever but it's a painstaking
job. Even more fiddly if you're fixing to the original joists

On Sun, 22 Apr 2007 12:32:40 GMT, Stuart Noble
wrote:

tester wrote:
Hi,

I appreciate you can level individual batterns horizontally /
vertically using a spirit level or similar, but if the walls are bumpy
and irregular, how do you level the whole support across large spans
so that the plasterboard sits perfectly across the length and breadth
of the wall?

Do you fit spacers or something - I've been pondering the best method
but if there's a correct way to carry this out?

It's easier to level everything with a skim coat of plaster. You can
pack battens with bits of hardboard or whatever but it's a painstaking
job. Even more fiddly if you're fixing to the original joists

Most walls have painted paper and some (bathroom) has paint onto
ragged plaster / blocks. I have tried getting the paper off the
hallway, but it's a real pain. To do the hall / front room, bedrooms
(2 off), let alone anything else will take months at this rate to try
and get the paper off - that's before pva/plaster.

So, I thought I'd just plasterboard most walls as they are brick with
plaster on, but done to a wonky and horrible standard. It's an old
house. So I have to work taking into account all walls in the house
are painted paper over something, but no plasterboard in the house at
all at present.

btw - in the store the plasterboard itself seemed quite heavy - does
anyone know approximately how heavy general size plasterboard actually
is? I find it amazing that the dot and dab (?) fixing method works
with such heavy sheets of plasterboard.

"tester" wrote in message
...
Hi,

I appreciate you can level individual batterns horizontally /
vertically using a spirit level or similar, but if the walls are bumpy
and irregular, how do you level the whole support across large spans
so that the plasterboard sits perfectly across the length and breadth
of the wall?

Do you fit spacers or something - I've been pondering the best method
but if there's a correct way to carry this out?

If this is a new wall set end studs to be plumb - vertical ... run a line
across top & bottom from one end to other, and make sure all others studs
touch this line, you may need to wallop a tad to move them on header/footer
timbers.
Just concentrate on one side of wall only.

Run string diagonal .. corner to corner to check all is OK

Then fit your horizontal noggins (or Dwangs if up t'north) fit the edges
flush with the edge of the studs and you should be all Ok on one face.

On other side as long as all within 3mm or so ... just ignore it and fix
boards .... if you have the odd noggin sticking out - then I run an electric
plane over them ... few seconds to put them right.

If there are any more than 3mm shallow, staple on some hardboard.

Mark your floor & ceilings with a pencil at the stud centers to make finding
then easier when nailing up.


For Plaster board (quaint old stuff) ... stagger boards on alternate faces
... i.e. joints are not on same stud on both sides.

For Fermacell (much better IMHO) ... do not stagger, joints must be on same
stud.

"Stuart Noble" wrote in message
...
tester wrote:
Hi,

I appreciate you can level individual batterns horizontally /
vertically using a spirit level or similar, but if the walls are bumpy
and irregular, how do you level the whole support across large spans
so that the plasterboard sits perfectly across the length and breadth
of the wall?

Do you fit spacers or something - I've been pondering the best method
but if there's a correct way to carry this out?

It's easier to level everything with a skim coat of plaster. You can pack
battens with bits of hardboard or whatever but it's a painstaking job.
Even more fiddly if you're fixing to the original joists

Agree about packing; Screwfix do "funny" screws which lock into the batten
and can then be backed off to serve as standoffs. I have a box but havn't
tried them yet.

On Sun, 22 Apr 2007 17:05:08 +0100, "Rick Hughes"
wrote:


"tester" wrote in message
.. .
Hi,

I appreciate you can level individual batterns horizontally /
vertically using a spirit level or similar, but if the walls are bumpy
and irregular, how do you level the whole support across large spans
so that the plasterboard sits perfectly across the length and breadth
of the wall?

Do you fit spacers or something - I've been pondering the best method
but if there's a correct way to carry this out?

If this is a new wall set end studs to be plumb - vertical ... run a line
across top & bottom from one end to other, and make sure all others studs
touch this line, you may need to wallop a tad to move them on header/footer
timbers.
Just concentrate on one side of wall only.

Run string diagonal .. corner to corner to check all is OK

Then fit your horizontal noggins (or Dwangs if up t'north) fit the edges
flush with the edge of the studs and you should be all Ok on one face.

On other side as long as all within 3mm or so ... just ignore it and fix
boards .... if you have the odd noggin sticking out - then I run an electric
plane over them ... few seconds to put them right.

If there are any more than 3mm shallow, staple on some hardboard.

Mark your floor & ceilings with a pencil at the stud centers to make finding
then easier when nailing up.


For Plaster board (quaint old stuff) ... stagger boards on alternate faces
.. i.e. joints are not on same stud on both sides.

For Fermacell (much better IMHO) ... do not stagger, joints must be on same
stud.


Thanks - it all looks easy until the moment I am prepared to start.

On Sun, 22 Apr 2007 17:05:08 +0100, "Rick Hughes"
wrote:


"tester" wrote in message
.. .
Hi,

I appreciate you can level individual batterns horizontally /
vertically using a spirit level or similar, but if the walls are bumpy
and irregular, how do you level the whole support across large spans
so that the plasterboard sits perfectly across the length and breadth
of the wall?

Do you fit spacers or something - I've been pondering the best method
but if there's a correct way to carry this out?

If this is a new wall set end studs to be plumb - vertical ... run a line
across top & bottom from one end to other, and make sure all others studs
touch this line, you may need to wallop a tad to move them on header/footer
timbers.
Just concentrate on one side of wall only.

Run string diagonal .. corner to corner to check all is OK

Then fit your horizontal noggins (or Dwangs if up t'north) fit the edges
flush with the edge of the studs and you should be all Ok on one face.

On other side as long as all within 3mm or so ... just ignore it and fix
boards .... if you have the odd noggin sticking out - then I run an electric
plane over them ... few seconds to put them right.

If there are any more than 3mm shallow, staple on some hardboard.

Mark your floor & ceilings with a pencil at the stud centers to make finding
then easier when nailing up.


For Plaster board (quaint old stuff) ... stagger boards on alternate faces
.. i.e. joints are not on same stud on both sides.

For Fermacell (much better IMHO) ... do not stagger, joints must be on same
stud.


The way I read the Op it is not a new stud wall.It's to sort out an
existing wall by putting battens up and boarding them . The way I'd
do it is put up the two end battens and make sure they are vertical
then fit the ones between remembering the spacing to suit the p/board
being used . Then fit horizontal battens as required ,especially if
the boards being used do not go floor to ceiling ..remembering that
battens will be needed at any joins .

On the other point 8 ' x 4' 12.5 boards are HEV V V V V V Y !!!!

On Sun, 22 Apr 2007 21:11:50 +0100, Stuart B
wrote:

On Sun, 22 Apr 2007 17:05:08 +0100, "Rick Hughes"
wrote:


"tester" wrote in message
. ..
Hi,

I appreciate you can level individual batterns horizontally /
vertically using a spirit level or similar, but if the walls are bumpy
and irregular, how do you level the whole support across large spans
so that the plasterboard sits perfectly across the length and breadth
of the wall?

Do you fit spacers or something - I've been pondering the best method
but if there's a correct way to carry this out?

If this is a new wall set end studs to be plumb - vertical ... run a line
across top & bottom from one end to other, and make sure all others studs
touch this line, you may need to wallop a tad to move them on header/footer
timbers.
Just concentrate on one side of wall only.

Run string diagonal .. corner to corner to check all is OK

Then fit your horizontal noggins (or Dwangs if up t'north) fit the edges
flush with the edge of the studs and you should be all Ok on one face.

On other side as long as all within 3mm or so ... just ignore it and fix
boards .... if you have the odd noggin sticking out - then I run an electric
plane over them ... few seconds to put them right.

If there are any more than 3mm shallow, staple on some hardboard.

Mark your floor & ceilings with a pencil at the stud centers to make finding
then easier when nailing up.


For Plaster board (quaint old stuff) ... stagger boards on alternate faces
.. i.e. joints are not on same stud on both sides.

For Fermacell (much better IMHO) ... do not stagger, joints must be on same
stud.


The way I read the Op it is not a new stud wall.It's to sort out an
existing wall by putting battens up and boarding them . The way I'd
do it is put up the two end battens and make sure they are vertical
then fit the ones between remembering the spacing to suit the p/board
being used . Then fit horizontal battens as required ,especially if
the boards being used do not go floor to ceiling ..remembering that
battens will be needed at any joins .

On the other point 8 ' x 4' 12.5 boards are HEV V V V V V Y !!!!

Yeah - I tried lifting one a bit when layed flat in wicks - not easy
for one person to carry or use.

Some walls are not too bad but have painted patterned paper as stated
- can plasterboard be fixed directly to the brick wall and if so, what
is the best thing to attach the board to the wall - with no batterns?

On 2007-04-22 21:41:36 +0100, tester said:

On Sun, 22 Apr 2007 21:11:50 +0100, Stuart B
wrote:


On the other point 8 ' x 4' 12.5 boards are HEV V V V V V Y !!!!

Yeah - I tried lifting one a bit when layed flat in wicks - not easy
for one person to carry or use.

I found this device during a trip to the U.S. some while ago.

http://www.telproinc.com/ProductDetail.aspx?PID=6

It's remarkably effective for the handling of large sheets of drywall,
plywood and MDF.

It wouldn't be that hard to make one from wood..........





Some walls are not too bad but have painted patterned paper as stated
- can plasterboard be fixed directly to the brick wall and if so, what
is the best thing to attach the board to the wall - with no batterns?

One method is to use dabs of plaster on the wall and to push the board
onto them.

I found this device during a trip to the U.S. some while ago.

Similar thing without wheels:
http://www.screwfix.com/search.do;js...arrier&x=0&y=0

Certainly helps when moving 18mm ply sheets alone.

On Sun, 22 Apr 2007 21:58:43 +0100, Andy Hall
wrote:

On 2007-04-22 21:41:36 +0100, tester said:

On Sun, 22 Apr 2007 21:11:50 +0100, Stuart B
wrote:


On the other point 8 ' x 4' 12.5 boards are HEV V V V V V Y !!!!

Yeah - I tried lifting one a bit when layed flat in wicks - not easy
for one person to carry or use.

I found this device during a trip to the U.S. some while ago.

http://www.telproinc.com/ProductDetail.aspx?PID=6

It's remarkably effective for the handling of large sheets of drywall,
plywood and MDF.

It wouldn't be that hard to make one from wood..........





Some walls are not too bad but have painted patterned paper as stated
- can plasterboard be fixed directly to the brick wall and if so, what
is the best thing to attach the board to the wall - with no batterns?

One method is to use dabs of plaster on the wall and to push the board
onto them.


I thought that works onto brick - but the walls have painted paper.

On 2007-04-22 22:35:45 +0100, tester said:

On Sun, 22 Apr 2007 21:58:43 +0100, Andy Hall
wrote:

On 2007-04-22 21:41:36 +0100, tester said:

On Sun, 22 Apr 2007 21:11:50 +0100, Stuart B
wrote:


On the other point 8 ' x 4' 12.5 boards are HEV V V V V V Y !!!!

Yeah - I tried lifting one a bit when layed flat in wicks - not easy
for one person to carry or use.

I found this device during a trip to the U.S. some while ago.

http://www.telproinc.com/ProductDetail.aspx?PID=6

It's remarkably effective for the handling of large sheets of drywall,
plywood and MDF.

It wouldn't be that hard to make one from wood..........





Some walls are not too bad but have painted patterned paper as stated
- can plasterboard be fixed directly to the brick wall and if so, what
is the best thing to attach the board to the wall - with no batterns?

One method is to use dabs of plaster on the wall and to push the board
onto them.


I thought that works onto brick - but the walls have painted paper.

No. Paper would have to come off.

On Sun, 22 Apr 2007 23:12:25 +0100, Andy Hall
mused:


One method is to use dabs of plaster on the wall and to push the board
onto them.


I thought that works onto brick - but the walls have painted paper.

No. Paper would have to come off.

I believe that's a full circle then.
--
Regards,
Stuart.

On 2007-04-22 23:23:00 +0100, Lurch said:

On Sun, 22 Apr 2007 23:12:25 +0100, Andy Hall
mused:


One method is to use dabs of plaster on the wall and to push the board
onto them.


I thought that works onto brick - but the walls have painted paper.

No. Paper would have to come off.

I believe that's a full circle then.

I didn't paint over the gas tap....

Cutting it short, it seems as though the options are

- paper off

- paper and plaster off

- battens screwed to wall and plasterboard.

Andy Hall wrote:
On 2007-04-22 23:23:00 +0100, Lurch said:

On Sun, 22 Apr 2007 23:12:25 +0100, Andy Hall
mused:


One method is to use dabs of plaster on the wall and to push the board
onto them.


I thought that works onto brick - but the walls have painted paper.

No. Paper would have to come off.

I believe that's a full circle then.

I didn't paint over the gas tap....

Cutting it short, it seems as though the options are

- paper off

- paper and plaster off

- battens screwed to wall and plasterboard.


Or just swamp the whole thing in pva and skim. I wouldn't want to lose
that much space with battens and PB, not to mention all the faffing
about round doors and windows

On Mon, 23 Apr 2007 06:47:20 GMT, Stuart Noble
wrote:

Andy Hall wrote:
On 2007-04-22 23:23:00 +0100, Lurch said:

On Sun, 22 Apr 2007 23:12:25 +0100, Andy Hall
mused:


One method is to use dabs of plaster on the wall and to push the board
onto them.


I thought that works onto brick - but the walls have painted paper.

No. Paper would have to come off.

I believe that's a full circle then.

I didn't paint over the gas tap....

Cutting it short, it seems as though the options are

- paper off

- paper and plaster off

- battens screwed to wall and plasterboard.


Or just swamp the whole thing in pva and skim. I wouldn't want to lose
that much space with battens and PB, not to mention all the faffing
about round doors and windows

PVA and skim over painted wallpaper - serious?

tester wrote:
On Mon, 23 Apr 2007 06:47:20 GMT, Stuart Noble
wrote:

Andy Hall wrote:
On 2007-04-22 23:23:00 +0100, Lurch said:

On Sun, 22 Apr 2007 23:12:25 +0100, Andy Hall
mused:

One method is to use dabs of plaster on the wall and to push the board
onto them.

I thought that works onto brick - but the walls have painted paper.
No. Paper would have to come off.

I believe that's a full circle then.
I didn't paint over the gas tap....

Cutting it short, it seems as though the options are

- paper off

- paper and plaster off

- battens screwed to wall and plasterboard.

Or just swamp the whole thing in pva and skim. I wouldn't want to lose
that much space with battens and PB, not to mention all the faffing
about round doors and windows

PVA and skim over painted wallpaper - serious?

Not ideal but, with enough pva and scoring the surface, it would
probably hold. Try it on a section.

On Mon, 23 Apr 2007 19:15:31 GMT, tester mused:

On Mon, 23 Apr 2007 06:47:20 GMT, Stuart Noble
wrote:

Andy Hall wrote:
On 2007-04-22 23:23:00 +0100, Lurch said:

On Sun, 22 Apr 2007 23:12:25 +0100, Andy Hall
mused:


One method is to use dabs of plaster on the wall and to push the board
onto them.


I thought that works onto brick - but the walls have painted paper.

No. Paper would have to come off.

I believe that's a full circle then.

I didn't paint over the gas tap....

Cutting it short, it seems as though the options are

- paper off

- paper and plaster off

- battens screwed to wall and plasterboard.


Or just swamp the whole thing in pva and skim. I wouldn't want to lose
that much space with battens and PB, not to mention all the faffing
about round doors and windows

PVA and skim over painted wallpaper - serious?

He might be, but ignore it.
--
Regards,
Stuart.

Lurch wrote:
On Mon, 23 Apr 2007 19:15:31 GMT, tester mused:

On Mon, 23 Apr 2007 06:47:20 GMT, Stuart Noble
wrote:

Andy Hall wrote:
On 2007-04-22 23:23:00 +0100, Lurch said:

On Sun, 22 Apr 2007 23:12:25 +0100, Andy Hall
mused:

One method is to use dabs of plaster on the wall and to push the board
onto them.

I thought that works onto brick - but the walls have painted paper.
No. Paper would have to come off.

I believe that's a full circle then.
I didn't paint over the gas tap....

Cutting it short, it seems as though the options are

- paper off

- paper and plaster off

- battens screwed to wall and plasterboard.

Or just swamp the whole thing in pva and skim. I wouldn't want to lose
that much space with battens and PB, not to mention all the faffing
about round doors and windows
PVA and skim over painted wallpaper - serious?

He might be, but ignore it.

I've seen instances where woodchip had been skimmed in older houses,
student lets etc, and had held up remarkably well. Depends what kind of
a job you want to do

Stuart Noble wrote:
Lurch wrote:
On Mon, 23 Apr 2007 19:15:31 GMT, tester mused:

On Mon, 23 Apr 2007 06:47:20 GMT, Stuart Noble
wrote:

Andy Hall wrote:
On 2007-04-22 23:23:00 +0100, Lurch said:

On Sun, 22 Apr 2007 23:12:25 +0100, Andy Hall
mused:

One method is to use dabs of plaster on the wall and to push
the board
onto them.

I thought that works onto brick - but the walls have painted paper.
No. Paper would have to come off.

I believe that's a full circle then.
I didn't paint over the gas tap....

Cutting it short, it seems as though the options are

- paper off

- paper and plaster off

- battens screwed to wall and plasterboard.

Or just swamp the whole thing in pva and skim. I wouldn't want to
lose that much space with battens and PB, not to mention all the
faffing about round doors and windows
PVA and skim over painted wallpaper - serious?

He might be, but ignore it.

I've seen instances where woodchip had been skimmed in older houses,
student lets etc, and had held up remarkably well. Depends what kind of
a job you want to do

Essentially if copious yanking and pulling fails to remove the paper,
skim over it. It is, de facto solid enough.

I've had more trouble from plasterboard clouts then over the scrim
tape..which is hardly a really major adhesive..

A lot of DIY is knowing when it matters, and when it does not.

I have regularly repaired holes in plasterboard with all manner of bits
of newspaper and wire mesh and lords knows what wedged behind, knowing
that once a layer of binding plaster is over them, they cease to have
any function at all.

What is plasterboard? a layer of very poor quality plaster with two
layers of rather thick wall paper - not even properly glued - either side.