On 23/07/2016 16:35, Tim+ wrote:
I've spent a couple of days removing manky old lath and plaster, rewiring
and replumbing.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/gw64fjiz7v...2013.jpeg?dl=1

My daughter was going to get a man in to plasterboard the wall and build a
new door frame for a new back door but having gone this far I'd like to see
it through myself.

I've not plasterboarded myself but can't see that it's gonna be too hard,
particularly if it gets a plaster coat on top.

Plasterboard is very easy to do. You need a long straight edge, and a
knife for scoring and snapping, small saw for awkward cut-outs etc. A
box of suitable length PB screws, a powered driver with a cowled PB
driving bit in the end.

Cut to shape, offer into place and stick in a screw to fix it, then slap
in the remaining screws every 600mm or so.

Given that a) I might be working alone and b) the ceiling is 9ft high,
would I be best using 6x3ft sheets of PB?

They are easier to handle, but there is not much in it to be fair. I
managed about 50 sheets of 8x4 mostly by myself when I did my loft at
the last place.

(smaller sheets are better if you are working in confined or low height
spaces)

Would I stagger the joins across wall using a 6 + 3 ft piece followed by 3
+ 6 ft piece?

My personal preference is to lay the boards with the long axis
horizontal, and then stagger the next one up so the joins don't all end
on the same stud. With 6x3 boards you could do in effect what looks like
three courses of stretcher bond.

For a kitchen/dining room (well away from sink & countertops) what
thickness and type of PB should I use?

12.5 mm, If skimming, then just get square edge. Leave slight gaps
(couple of mm) when fitting the boards. Cover the joints with fibreglass
scrim tape before plastering.

(if you were just planning to fill and sand, then you are better off
with taper edge boards, long axis vertical, and each board in line, you
you have nice long straight joins to fill).


--
Cheers,

John.

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