My old one has today thrown the towel in. Can't complain as it's given me
good service for 25-30 years.
Main usages: AC up to 440V, DC up to 120V. Resistance occasionally.
Transistor testing never.
Audible continuity testing is a must.
Not used very frequently but lost without it. A decent item that might last
10 years will see me out.
Thanks,
Nick.

On 06/11/2014 17:55, Nick wrote:
My old one has today thrown the towel in. Can't complain as it's given me
good service for 25-30 years.
Main usages: AC up to 440V, DC up to 120V. Resistance occasionally.
Transistor testing never.
Audible continuity testing is a must.
Not used very frequently but lost without it. A decent item that might last
10 years will see me out.
Thanks,
Nick.



I've still got a Maplin "Precision Gold" which is ancient but still
working, the current one they do looks very similar but whether it's the
same internally...

Unless the budget runs to a Fluke, in which case Fluke.

In article ,
Lee wrote:
On 06/11/2014 17:55, Nick wrote:
My old one has today thrown the towel in. Can't complain as it's given me
good service for 25-30 years.
Main usages: AC up to 440V, DC up to 120V. Resistance occasionally.
Transistor testing never.
Audible continuity testing is a must.
Not used very frequently but lost without it. A decent item that might last
10 years will see me out.
Thanks,
Nick.



I've still got a Maplin "Precision Gold" which is ancient but still
working, the current one they do looks very similar but whether it's the
same internally...

Unless the budget runs to a Fluke, in which case Fluke.

The display on my Fluke has become unreadable, but I did buy it in the
early 1980s.

--
From KT24

Using a RISC OS computer running v5.18

On 06/11/2014 18:54, Lee wrote:
On 06/11/2014 17:55, Nick wrote:
My old one has today thrown the towel in. Can't complain as it's given me
good service for 25-30 years.
Main usages: AC up to 440V, DC up to 120V. Resistance occasionally.
Transistor testing never.
Audible continuity testing is a must.
Not used very frequently but lost without it. A decent item that might
last
10 years will see me out.
Thanks,
Nick.



I've still got a Maplin "Precision Gold" which is ancient but still
working, the current one they do looks very similar but whether it's the
same internally...

Unless the budget runs to a Fluke, in which case Fluke.

After a confusing hour spent measuring ghost voltages (or what I hope
are ghost voltages) on a two-way switched stair lighting circuit, I've
ordered a Fluke 117. It has a low-input-impedance voltage measuring
mode, which should allow capacitively-coupled ghost voltages to be
distinguihed from real ones. It also has a no-contact voltage detector.
I can't wait for it to arrive...

In article , Lee
writes
On 06/11/2014 17:55, Nick wrote:
My old one has today thrown the towel in. Can't complain as it's given me
good service for 25-30 years.
Main usages: AC up to 440V, DC up to 120V. Resistance occasionally.
Transistor testing never.
Audible continuity testing is a must.
Not used very frequently but lost without it. A decent item that might last
10 years will see me out.
Thanks,
Nick.



I've still got a Maplin "Precision Gold" which is ancient but still
working, the current one they do looks very similar but whether it's the
same internally...

Likewise, one of these is my old favourite, including the shock
protective boot.

Don't know what the current examples are like though.
--
fred
it's a ba-na-na . . . .

"charles" wrote in message
...
In article ,
Lee wrote:
On 06/11/2014 17:55, Nick wrote:
My old one has today thrown the towel in. Can't complain as it's given
me
good service for 25-30 years.
Main usages: AC up to 440V, DC up to 120V. Resistance occasionally.
Transistor testing never.
Audible continuity testing is a must.
Not used very frequently but lost without it. A decent item that might
last
10 years will see me out.
Thanks,
Nick.



I've still got a Maplin "Precision Gold" which is ancient but still
working, the current one they do looks very similar but whether it's the
same internally...

Unless the budget runs to a Fluke, in which case Fluke.

The display on my Fluke has become unreadable, but I did buy it in the
early 1980s.

My Fluke 19 is as perfect as it ever was.

On Thu, 6 Nov 2014 17:55:16 -0000, "Nick"
wrote:

My old one has today thrown the towel in. Can't complain as it's given me
good service for 25-30 years.
Main usages: AC up to 440V, DC up to 120V. Resistance occasionally.

Watch out for cheap multimeters that are marked with misleading max
categories and voltages. I've got one that's marked CAT III 600V/CAT
II 1000V, but a quick look at the fuse (simple glass jobbie with no
physical shieding), and the PCB gaps between the terminals (maybe 1mm)
means I'd never even use it for single phase mains.

I think a lot of the imported meters just silk-screen on these CAT III
/ CAT II markings.

As ohers have said, can't go wrong with Fluke.

In article ,
Lee writes:
On 06/11/2014 17:55, Nick wrote:
My old one has today thrown the towel in. Can't complain as it's given me
good service for 25-30 years.
Main usages: AC up to 440V, DC up to 120V. Resistance occasionally.
Transistor testing never.
Audible continuity testing is a must.
Not used very frequently but lost without it. A decent item that might last
10 years will see me out.
Thanks,
Nick.



I've still got a Maplin "Precision Gold" which is ancient but still
working,

Same here. Mine might be 30 years old (can't recall exactly
when I bought it).

The audible continuity testing is not great - it's fed from the
resistance scale and there's too much delay whilst it auto ranges
and settles before it sounds the sounder. Audible continuity
testers need to be instant. Other than that, it's fine.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

In article ,
Lee wrote:
I've still got a Maplin "Precision Gold" which is ancient but still
working, the current one they do looks very similar but whether it's the
same internally...

The spindle between knob and switch sheared on mine.

It also flashed over when measuring mains once - brass dust between the
switch tracks. Did manage to fix that, though. But I now only use a proper
meter designed for mains to measure that - not a DVM. Although my main DVM
is now a Fluke.

--
*Windows will never cease *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Caecilius wrote:
As ohers have said, can't go wrong with Fluke.

Buy two, a Fluke and a cheapo one. Use the cheapo one when you just need
to buzz out lightbulbs, check batteries, whatever, and use the Fluke when it
actually matters.

The cost of a fuse for a Fluke can be as much as a whole cheap multimeter,
so you live to regret testing the voltage of a D cell but the probes plugged
in for current mode. And the cheapo one comes in handy when you pick up the
Fluke and discover the battery is flat *again* (I know it's a problem in
the Fluke 83, not sure about others).

In fact, buy several cheapo ones and leave one in the shed, one in the car,
etc. Then there's always one about when you need it.

Theo

When I could see, it was a must to keep an analogue one with a real meter,
as the digital ones were always less accurate if measuring things that
fluctuate.
I'm on the lookout at the moment for a simple audio continuity tester so
Ican actually do a bit of wiring seeing as I cannot see the wire
colours.another gadget would be a live detector which warbles on the live.
Such things no doubt would be frowned upon for health and safety grounds,
but we do not all keep sihted people in cupboards.
Brian

--
From the Sofa of Brian Gaff Reply address is active
"Lee" wrote in message
...
On 06/11/2014 17:55, Nick wrote:
My old one has today thrown the towel in. Can't complain as it's given me
good service for 25-30 years.
Main usages: AC up to 440V, DC up to 120V. Resistance occasionally.
Transistor testing never.
Audible continuity testing is a must.
Not used very frequently but lost without it. A decent item that might
last
10 years will see me out.
Thanks,
Nick.



I've still got a Maplin "Precision Gold" which is ancient but still
working, the current one they do looks very similar but whether it's the
same internally...

Unless the budget runs to a Fluke, in which case Fluke.

In article ,
Theo Markettos wrote:
Caecilius wrote:
As ohers have said, can't go wrong with Fluke.

Buy two, a Fluke and a cheapo one. Use the cheapo one when you just
need to buzz out lightbulbs, check batteries, whatever, and use the
Fluke when it actually matters.

Good advice.

The cost of a fuse for a Fluke can be as much as a whole cheap
multimeter, so you live to regret testing the voltage of a D cell but
the probes plugged in for current mode. And the cheapo one comes in
handy when you pick up the Fluke and discover the battery is flat
*again* (I know it's a problem in the Fluke 83, not sure about others).

Quite. Of course there will be smartarses who say they've never blown a
fuse in a DVM. I'm certainly more careful after having to buy a new one
for my Fluke. ;-)

In fact, buy several cheapo ones and leave one in the shed, one in the
car, etc. Then there's always one about when you need it.

I bought a 'proper' automotive one off Ebay from China direct to keep in
the old car. Does RPM, Dwell and Temperature, as well as the usual and has
a 20 amp range. Actually seems rather a nice meter at about 30 quid.

My Fluke is a delight to use - but doubt it is decent value for money, and
probably not worth it for general DIY. Snag is knowing which of the many
from China are.

--
*I'll try being nicer if you'll try being smarter

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On 07/11/2014 11:07, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:


Quite. Of course there will be smartarses who say they've never blown a
fuse in a DVM. I'm certainly more careful after having to buy a new one
for my Fluke. ;-)


Hehe, the manual for my cheap Uni-T dvm/'scope says "the fuse will only
blow due to customer misuse"

My Fluke is a delight to use - but doubt it is decent value for money, and
probably not worth it for general DIY. Snag is knowing which of the many
from China are.


Dave Jones' eevblog forum has plenty of discussions about meters and of
course he has several test and teardown videos.

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote:
In article ,
Theo Markettos wrote:
Caecilius wrote:
As ohers have said, can't go wrong with Fluke.

Buy two, a Fluke and a cheapo one. Use the cheapo one when you just
need to buzz out lightbulbs, check batteries, whatever, and use the
Fluke when it actually matters.

Good advice.

The cost of a fuse for a Fluke can be as much as a whole cheap
multimeter, so you live to regret testing the voltage of a D cell but
the probes plugged in for current mode. And the cheapo one comes in
handy when you pick up the Fluke and discover the battery is flat
*again* (I know it's a problem in the Fluke 83, not sure about others).

Quite. Of course there will be smartarses who say they've never blown a
fuse in a DVM. I'm certainly more careful after having to buy a new one
for my Fluke. ;-)

In fact, buy several cheapo ones and leave one in the shed, one in the
car, etc. Then there's always one about when you need it.

I bought a 'proper' automotive one off Ebay from China direct to keep in
the old car. Does RPM, Dwell and Temperature, as well as the usual and has
a 20 amp range. Actually seems rather a nice meter at about 30 quid.

My Fluke is a delight to use - but doubt it is decent value for money, and
probably not worth it for general DIY. Snag is knowing which of the many
from China are.

I have a couple of the Tenma ones from CPC, seem pretty solid so far.
(I also have an ancient Maplin Gold DVM and a Maplin Analogue one)

--
Chris Green
·

On Friday, November 7, 2014 10:31:01 AM UTC, Theo Markettos wrote:
Caecilius wrote:
As ohers have said, can't go wrong with Fluke.

Buy two, a Fluke and a cheapo one. Use the cheapo one when you just need
to buzz out lightbulbs, check batteries, whatever, and use the Fluke when it
actually matters.

The cost of a fuse for a Fluke can be as much as a whole cheap multimeter,
so you live to regret testing the voltage of a D cell but the probes plugged
in for current mode. And the cheapo one comes in handy when you pick up the
Fluke and discover the battery is flat *again* (I know it's a problem in
the Fluke 83, not sure about others).

In fact, buy several cheapo ones and leave one in the shed, one in the car,
etc. Then there's always one about when you need it.

Theo

+1


NT

On 06/11/2014 17:55, Nick wrote:
My old one has today thrown the towel in. Can't complain as it's given me
good service for 25-30 years.
Main usages: AC up to 440V, DC up to 120V. Resistance occasionally.
Transistor testing never.
Audible continuity testing is a must.
Not used very frequently but lost without it. A decent item that might last
10 years will see me out.
Thanks,
Nick.


Fluke! I have had my 70 Series II for more than twenty five years. Get
the hard rubber case for it. Secondhand ones appear on eBay from time to
time. Choose carefully.


--
Peter Crosland

Reply address is valid

On Thursday, 6 November 2014 17:55:26 UTC, Nick wrote:
My old one has today thrown the towel in.

Fluke. eBay has bargains, if you're patient.

Otherwise cheapo from Maplin / eBay and treat it as consumable.

On 2014-11-06 17:55:16 +0000, Nick said:

My old one has today thrown the towel in. Can't complain as it's given
me good service for 25-30 years.
Main usages: AC up to 440V, DC up to 120V. Resistance occasionally.
Transistor testing never.
Audible continuity testing is a must.
Not used very frequently but lost without it. A decent item that might
last 10 years will see me out.
Thanks,
Nick.

You can't go wrong with one of these:

http://www.richardsradios.co.uk/avo8.html

I've got one.

E.

Theo Markettos wrote
Caecilius wrote

As ohers have said, can't go wrong with Fluke.

Buy two, a Fluke and a cheapo one.

I do have a couple of previous cheapo
ones and don’t use them at all anymore.

Use the cheapo one when you just need to
buzz out lightbulbs, check batteries, whatever,
and use the Fluke when it actually matters.

The cost of a fuse for a Fluke can be as much as a whole
cheap multimeter, so you live to regret testing the voltage
of a D cell but the probes plugged in for current mode.

I don’t do that sort of thing accidentally enough to matter.
In fact I don’t measure current that often and just make
sure I put the probes back in the normal sockets after
doing that so I just don’t do that sort of accident.

And the cheapo one comes in handy when you pick up
the Fluke and discover the battery is flat *again* (I know
it's a problem in the Fluke 83, not sure about others).

I don’t get that at all with the Fluke 17. I did have a few
initial reservations about the fact it uses a not that cheap
9V battery, but have only replaced it once in 15 years now.

In fact, buy several cheapo ones and leave one in the shed, one
in the car, etc. Then there's always one about when you need it.

I don’t bother to do that with the spare cheapos I do
have. My whole house is my shed and there isnt that
much spar space in the car glove box what with the
torch and the car charger for the phone etc. I cant
think of the last time I needed a meter in the car
when not at home, even when there was a problem
with a failing battery which would intermittently
not crank the engine and adjusting the battery
clamps didn’t help.

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ,
Theo Markettos wrote:
Caecilius wrote:
As ohers have said, can't go wrong with Fluke.

Buy two, a Fluke and a cheapo one. Use the cheapo one when you just
need to buzz out lightbulbs, check batteries, whatever, and use the
Fluke when it actually matters.

Good advice.

Nope, I much prefer using the Fluke because is a much
better designed meter and don’t ****up and blow the
fuse at all, because after I measure current, I put the probes
back where they go for normal ops so I don’t **** up.

The cost of a fuse for a Fluke can be as much as a whole cheap
multimeter, so you live to regret testing the voltage of a D cell but
the probes plugged in for current mode. And the cheapo one comes in
handy when you pick up the Fluke and discover the battery is flat
*again* (I know it's a problem in the Fluke 83, not sure about others).

Quite. Of course there will be smartarses who
say they've never blown a fuse in a DVM.

Taint smartarses, just those with enough to a clue to
put the probes back in the normal holes when you
have finished measuring current.

I'm certainly more careful after having
to buy a new one for my Fluke. ;-)

I was more careful without blowing one.

In fact, buy several cheapo ones and leave one in the shed, one
in the car, etc. Then there's always one about when you need it.

I bought a 'proper' automotive one off Ebay
from China direct to keep in the old car.

I don’t find I do stuff on the car away from home enough
to matter and I did run the previous car for 35+ years.

Does RPM,

My car does that on the dash

Dwell and Temperature, as well as the usual

I have an OBDII adapter that leaves any meter for dead on that stuff.

and has a 20 amp range. Actually seems
rather a nice meter at about 30 quid.

The OBDII adapter didn’t cost anything like that and does
a hell of a lot more fault finding wise if you have a problem.

My Fluke is a delight to use

Yeah, that’s the main reason I don’t use cheapos for anything
even tho I have a few left over from before I got the Fluke.

- but doubt it is decent value for money,

The Fluke 17 wasn’t all that expensive
and I got it at a decent discount too.

and probably not worth it for general DIY.

Not at the current Fluke prices.

Snag is knowing which of the many from China are.

On Fri, 07 Nov 2014 22:09:22 +0000, eastender wrote:

On 2014-11-06 17:55:16 +0000, Nick said:

My old one has today thrown the towel in. Can't complain as it's given
me good service for 25-30 years.
Main usages: AC up to 440V, DC up to 120V. Resistance occasionally.
Transistor testing never.
Audible continuity testing is a must.
Not used very frequently but lost without it. A decent item that might
last 10 years will see me out.
Thanks,
Nick.

You can't go wrong with one of these:

http://www.richardsradios.co.uk/avo8.html

I've got one.

E.

Indeed. I have four!



--
My posts are my copyright and if @diy_forums or Home Owners' Hub
wish to copy them they can pay me £30a message.
Use the BIG mirror service in the UK: http://www.mirrorservice.org
*lightning surge protection* - a w_tom conductor

"eastender" wrote in message
...
On 2014-11-06 17:55:16 +0000, Nick said:

My old one has today thrown the towel in. Can't complain as it's given me
good service for 25-30 years.
Main usages: AC up to 440V, DC up to 120V. Resistance occasionally.
Transistor testing never.
Audible continuity testing is a must.
Not used very frequently but lost without it. A decent item that might
last 10 years will see me out.
Thanks,

You can't go wrong with one of these:
http://www.richardsradios.co.uk/avo8.html

You do a lot better with a decent modern Fluke.

I've got one.

I used one for years but bought a Fluke for myself.

In article ,
Rod Speed wrote:
Quite. Of course there will be smartarses who
say they've never blown a fuse in a DVM.

Taint smartarses, just those with enough to a clue to
put the probes back in the normal holes when you
have finished measuring current.

As I said, smartarse.

But then you'd not admit if you had blown a fuse, being the perfect being
you like to think you are.

--
*Organized Crime Is Alive And Well; It's Called Auto Insurance.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article ,
eastender wrote:
On 2014-11-06 17:55:16 +0000, Nick said:

My old one has today thrown the towel in. Can't complain as it's given
me good service for 25-30 years.
Main usages: AC up to 440V, DC up to 120V. Resistance occasionally.
Transistor testing never.
Audible continuity testing is a must.
Not used very frequently but lost without it. A decent item that might
last 10 years will see me out.
Thanks,
Nick.

You can't go wrong with one of these:

http://www.richardsradios.co.uk/avo8.html

I've got one.

You can certainly go wrong with one of those. Just trying to get
batteries, for a start. And they're less accurate than the average 2 quid
market stall DVM. And don't whatever you do drop one.

I've got one too. In a nice leather case. Where it stays.

--
*I was once a millionaire but my mom gave away my baseball cards

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Sat, 08 Nov 2014 12:28:32 +0000, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

In article ,
eastender wrote:
On 2014-11-06 17:55:16 +0000, Nick said:

My old one has today thrown the towel in. Can't complain as it's
given me good service for 25-30 years.
Main usages: AC up to 440V, DC up to 120V. Resistance occasionally.
Transistor testing never.
Audible continuity testing is a must.
Not used very frequently but lost without it. A decent item that
might last 10 years will see me out.
Thanks,
Nick.

You can't go wrong with one of these:

http://www.richardsradios.co.uk/avo8.html

I've got one.

You can certainly go wrong with one of those. Just trying to get
batteries, for a start.

Got the last two from Rapid and RS.


--
My posts are my copyright and if @diy_forums or Home Owners' Hub
wish to copy them they can pay me £30a message.
Use the BIG mirror service in the UK: http://www.mirrorservice.org
*lightning surge protection* - a w_tom conductor

In article ,
Bob Eager wrote:
You can certainly go wrong with one of those. Just trying to get
batteries, for a start.

Got the last two from Rapid and RS.

Care to say how much?

Even the 1.5v volt one on mine is not something you'll find locally.

--
*How can I miss you if you won't go away?

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On 2014-11-08 12:28:32 +0000, Dave Plowman (News) said:

In article ,
eastender wrote:
On 2014-11-06 17:55:16 +0000, Nick said:

My old one has today thrown the towel in. Can't complain as it's given
me good service for 25-30 years.
Main usages: AC up to 440V, DC up to 120V. Resistance occasionally.
Transistor testing never.
Audible continuity testing is a must.
Not used very frequently but lost without it. A decent item that might
last 10 years will see me out.
Thanks,
Nick.

You can't go wrong with one of these:

http://www.richardsradios.co.uk/avo8.html

I've got one.

You can certainly go wrong with one of those.

I was joking. Still it's a nice old thing to have.

E.

On 2014-11-08 12:37:37 +0000, Bob Eager said:

On Sat, 08 Nov 2014 12:28:32 +0000, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

In article ,
eastender wrote:
On 2014-11-06 17:55:16 +0000, Nick said:

My old one has today thrown the towel in. Can't complain as it's
given me good service for 25-30 years.
Main usages: AC up to 440V, DC up to 120V. Resistance occasionally.
Transistor testing never.
Audible continuity testing is a must.
Not used very frequently but lost without it. A decent item that
might last 10 years will see me out.
Thanks,
Nick.

You can't go wrong with one of these:

http://www.richardsradios.co.uk/avo8.html

I've got one.

You can certainly go wrong with one of those. Just trying to get
batteries, for a start.

Got the last two from Rapid and RS.

Have you got links to the batteries Bob? I'd like to get them for my Avo.

E.

On Sat, 08 Nov 2014 12:59:42 +0000, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

In article ,
Bob Eager wrote:
You can certainly go wrong with one of those. Just trying to get
batteries, for a start.

Got the last two from Rapid and RS.

Care to say how much?

Even the 1.5v volt one on mine is not something you'll find locally.

It was a while ago. I know there are two different models of 15v battery
anyway.



--
My posts are my copyright and if @diy_forums or Home Owners' Hub
wish to copy them they can pay me £30a message.
Use the BIG mirror service in the UK: http://www.mirrorservice.org
*lightning surge protection* - a w_tom conductor

On Saturday, November 8, 2014 12:31:14 PM UTC, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
eastender wrote:
On 2014-11-06 17:55:16 +0000, Nick said:

My old one has today thrown the towel in. Can't complain as it's given
me good service for 25-30 years.
Main usages: AC up to 440V, DC up to 120V. Resistance occasionally.
Transistor testing never.
Audible continuity testing is a must.
Not used very frequently but lost without it. A decent item that might
last 10 years will see me out.
Thanks,
Nick.

You can't go wrong with one of these:

http://www.richardsradios.co.uk/avo8.html

I've got one.

You can certainly go wrong with one of those. Just trying to get
batteries, for a start. And they're less accurate than the average 2 quid
market stall DVM. And don't whatever you do drop one.

I've got one too. In a nice leather case. Where it stays.

Quite. AVOs always struck me as overpriced ad absurdam for what they were.


NT

In article ,
scribeth thus
On Saturday, November 8, 2014 12:31:14 PM UTC, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
eastender wrote:
On 2014-11-06 17:55:16 +0000, Nick said:

My old one has today thrown the towel in. Can't complain as it's given
me good service for 25-30 years.
Main usages: AC up to 440V, DC up to 120V. Resistance occasionally.
Transistor testing never.
Audible continuity testing is a must.
Not used very frequently but lost without it. A decent item that might
last 10 years will see me out.
Thanks,
Nick.

You can't go wrong with one of these:

http://www.richardsradios.co.uk/avo8.html

I've got one.

You can certainly go wrong with one of those. Just trying to get
batteries, for a start. And they're less accurate than the average 2 quid
market stall DVM. And don't whatever you do drop one.

I've got one too. In a nice leather case. Where it stays.

Quite. AVOs always struck me as overpriced ad absurdam for what they were.


NT

But that that in context of the time they were built and used and its
not that surprising..

As to the original request Fluke anytime, get a second-hand one off ebay
or try "Stewart of reading" he sometimes has used model 77 's at the
right price.

Wouldn't have anything else;!...
--
Tony Sayer

In article ,
wrote:
You can certainly go wrong with one of those. Just trying to get
batteries, for a start. And they're less accurate than the average 2
quid market stall DVM. And don't whatever you do drop one.

I've got one too. In a nice leather case. Where it stays.

Quite. AVOs always struck me as overpriced ad absurdam for what they
were.

You could still buy a AVO 8 new until recently, IIRC. Thick end of a
grand. ;-)

--
*WHY IS THERE AN EXPIRATION DATE ON SOUR CREAM?

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Thu, 06 Nov 2014 23:34:53 +0000, Andrew Gabriel wrote:

Same here. Mine might be 30 years old (can't recall exactly when I
bought it).

Me too. It sort of "died" about 18 months ago - but then made a Lazarus
like recovery immediately AFTER I bought a replacement for it. *******. I
still use it in preference to the replacement UNI-T one. Familiarity
rules, I guess.

The audible continuity testing is not great - it's fed from the
resistance scale and there's too much delay whilst it auto ranges and
settles before it sounds the sounder. Audible continuity testers need to
be instant. Other than that, it's fine.

I don't have that problem. My Maplin WG is instant and doesn't have an
auto-range facility, unlike the new one which does, and takes an age.

But the WG is way overspecified for the OP's needs. It does capacitance,
inductance, diodes and transistors in addition to the core multimeter
functions so wouldn't be suitable IMV.

Dave Plowman (News) wrote
Rod Speed wrote
Dave Plowman (News) wrote

Quite. Of course there will be smartarses who
say they've never blown a fuse in a DVM.

Taint smartarses, just those with enough to a clue to
put the probes back in the normal holes when you
have finished measuring current.

As I said, smartarse.

You never could bull**** your way out of a wet paper bag.

But then you'd not admit if you had blown a fuse,
being the perfect being you like to think you are.

There you go, lying again, as you always do when you
have got done like a ****ing dinner, as you always are.

Even someone as stupid as you should be able to
use groups.google and find plenty of examples of
me admitting to have ****ed something up.

On Saturday, November 8, 2014 2:57:08 PM UTC, tony sayer wrote:
In article ,
scribeth thus
On Saturday, November 8, 2014 12:31:14 PM UTC, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

I've got one too. In a nice leather case. Where it stays.

Quite. AVOs always struck me as overpriced ad absurdam for what they were.

But that that in context of the time they were built and used and its
not that surprising..

Their price might have made sense in the '20s, but decades later it had lost all connection with basic sense. And from my limited time using them, I was never impressed, any reasonably decent modern meter is better.

I like some old stuff, but AVOs no.


NT

On Sat, 08 Nov 2014 15:05:57 +0000, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

You could still buy a AVO 8 new until recently, IIRC. Thick end of a
grand. ;-)

Yes, but this is "pwopper quality" we're talking here and it doesn't come
cheap. None of your Chinese junk that falls to bits in 5 minutes.
There was another English firm that made this gargantuan, museumesque
type of stuff, too. Megger was it? Probably folded decades ago.

wrote in message
...
On Saturday, November 8, 2014 12:31:14 PM UTC, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
eastender wrote:
On 2014-11-06 17:55:16 +0000, Nick said:

My old one has today thrown the towel in. Can't complain as it's
given
me good service for 25-30 years.
Main usages: AC up to 440V, DC up to 120V. Resistance occasionally.
Transistor testing never.
Audible continuity testing is a must.
Not used very frequently but lost without it. A decent item that
might
last 10 years will see me out.
Thanks,
Nick.

You can't go wrong with one of these:

http://www.richardsradios.co.uk/avo8.html

I've got one.

You can certainly go wrong with one of those. Just trying to get
batteries, for a start. And they're less accurate than the average 2 quid
market stall DVM. And don't whatever you do drop one.

I've got one too. In a nice leather case. Where it stays.

Quite. AVOs always struck me as overpriced ad absurdam for what they were.

And a pain in the arse to use compared with a decent
modern digital auto ranging Fluke as well. And I used
Avos for decades before the Flukes showed up too.

On Sat, 08 Nov 2014 21:21:26 +0000, Cursitor Doom wrote:

There was another English firm that made this gargantuan, museumesque
type of stuff, too. Megger was it? Probably folded decades ago.

I stand correcting myself! Still in business, it transpires!
So then, which is the better buy: Megger or Fluke?

wrote in message
...
On Saturday, November 8, 2014 2:57:08 PM UTC, tony sayer wrote:
In article ,
scribeth thus
On Saturday, November 8, 2014 12:31:14 PM UTC, Dave Plowman (News)
wrote:

I've got one too. In a nice leather case. Where it stays.

Quite. AVOs always struck me as overpriced ad absurdam for what they
were.

But that that in context of the time they were built and used and its
not that surprising..

Their price might have made sense in the '20s, but decades later it had
lost all connection with basic sense. And from my limited time using them,
I was never impressed, any reasonably decent modern meter is better.

I like some old stuff, but AVOs no.

I don't like any old electrical stuff, the world had
moved on so dramatically with that stuff now.

Cursitor Doom wrote
Dave Plowman (News) wrote

You could still buy a AVO 8 new until recently,
IIRC. Thick end of a grand. ;-)

Yes, but this is "pwopper quality" we're talking here and it doesn't
come cheap. None of your Chinese junk that falls to bits in 5 minutes.

My Fluke 17 is in fact made in China. And so is my iphone.

Neither has fallen to bits at all and the Fluke has lasted fine
for 15 years now.

There was another English firm that made this gargantuan, museumesque
type of stuff, too. Megger was it? Probably folded decades ago.

Nope, still around
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Megger_Group_Limited