Having built around 25 decks, my Axminster White SCMS is in a bad way &
needs replacing. I'm in a quandary, do I buy an ALDI el cheapo and replace
as necessary or shell out on a decent brand for long term?

Spot on 100% accuracy isn't essential, its only used for decking - trimming
150 x 47 softwood or 147 x 28 deck boards.

I'm now thinking do I need an SCMS at all? I have the idea of making up a
'sawboard' with a right angle fence (I think Dennis mentioned this idea) and
using a circular saw.

I don't mind buying a new power tool :-) but its not just the cost.

An SCMS is a bulky & heavy item to store & squeeze into the van and involves
double handling of the timber very often. I don't use a stand for the SCMS
because that often involves lifting a 4.8m 150 x 47 and then holding it in
place - PITA if you only have to trim 30cm off. Easier at floor level.

It occurs to me that a sawboard & circular saw could be taken to the timber,
rather than taking the timber to the saw - I'd just need to support the end,
clamp on the sawboard & cut. Probably quicker.

Anyone see any snags in this cunning plan?


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

The Medway Handyman wrote:
Having built around 25 decks, my Axminster White SCMS is in a bad way &
needs replacing. I'm in a quandary, do I buy an ALDI el cheapo and replace
as necessary or shell out on a decent brand for long term?

Spot on 100% accuracy isn't essential, its only used for decking - trimming
150 x 47 softwood or 147 x 28 deck boards.

I'm now thinking do I need an SCMS at all? I have the idea of making up a
'sawboard' with a right angle fence (I think Dennis mentioned this idea) and
using a circular saw.

I don't mind buying a new power tool :-) but its not just the cost.

An SCMS is a bulky & heavy item to store & squeeze into the van and involves
double handling of the timber very often. I don't use a stand for the SCMS
because that often involves lifting a 4.8m 150 x 47 and then holding it in
place - PITA if you only have to trim 30cm off. Easier at floor level.

It occurs to me that a sawboard & circular saw could be taken to the timber,
rather than taking the timber to the saw - I'd just need to support the end,
clamp on the sawboard & cut. Probably quicker.

Anyone see any snags in this cunning plan?


I fancied one of these a while back after seeing a demo on a shopping
channel (yes, I know!) was about £30.
http://www.macboard.qc.ca/
Can't find any for sale in the UK ATM though.

R D S wrote:
The Medway Handyman wrote:
Having built around 25 decks, my Axminster White SCMS is in a bad
way & needs replacing. I'm in a quandary, do I buy an ALDI el
cheapo and replace as necessary or shell out on a decent brand for
long term? Spot on 100% accuracy isn't essential, its only used for
decking -
trimming 150 x 47 softwood or 147 x 28 deck boards.

I'm now thinking do I need an SCMS at all? I have the idea of
making up a 'sawboard' with a right angle fence (I think Dennis
mentioned this idea) and using a circular saw.

I don't mind buying a new power tool :-) but its not just the cost.

An SCMS is a bulky & heavy item to store & squeeze into the van and
involves double handling of the timber very often. I don't use a
stand for the SCMS because that often involves lifting a 4.8m 150 x
47 and then holding it in place - PITA if you only have to trim 30cm
off. Easier at floor level. It occurs to me that a sawboard & circular
saw could be taken to the
timber, rather than taking the timber to the saw - I'd just need to
support the end, clamp on the sawboard & cut. Probably quicker.

Anyone see any snags in this cunning plan?


I fancied one of these a while back after seeing a demo on a shopping
channel (yes, I know!) was about £30.
http://www.macboard.qc.ca/
Can't find any for sale in the UK ATM though.

Screwfix sell something similar
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/24972/...0GUIDE-_-24972

The downside is that the timber has to pass through the guide, I want
something I can just drop on top & clamp.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

The Medway Handyman wrote:
R D S wrote:
The Medway Handyman wrote:
Having built around 25 decks, my Axminster White SCMS is in a bad
way & needs replacing. I'm in a quandary, do I buy an ALDI el
cheapo and replace as necessary or shell out on a decent brand for
long term? Spot on 100% accuracy isn't essential, its only used for
decking -
trimming 150 x 47 softwood or 147 x 28 deck boards.

I'm now thinking do I need an SCMS at all? I have the idea of
making up a 'sawboard' with a right angle fence (I think Dennis
mentioned this idea) and using a circular saw.

I don't mind buying a new power tool :-) but its not just the cost.

An SCMS is a bulky & heavy item to store & squeeze into the van and
involves double handling of the timber very often. I don't use a
stand for the SCMS because that often involves lifting a 4.8m 150 x
47 and then holding it in place - PITA if you only have to trim 30cm
off. Easier at floor level. It occurs to me that a sawboard & circular
saw could be taken to the
timber, rather than taking the timber to the saw - I'd just need to
support the end, clamp on the sawboard & cut. Probably quicker.

Anyone see any snags in this cunning plan?


I fancied one of these a while back after seeing a demo on a shopping
channel (yes, I know!) was about £30.
http://www.macboard.qc.ca/
Can't find any for sale in the UK ATM though.

Screwfix sell something similar
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/24972/...0GUIDE-_-24972


I think that's exactly the same, a bit much at £40 though IMO, though a
new gadget might provoke a bit of DIY action.

When I was doing a lot of 50*200 joists (80 or so), it was easier to
slide each one of the end of the bundle (as dropped outside by the
builders merchant), clamp on a right angle template (a bit like a
bench hook) and use a hand held circular saw.

However that was when the alternative a basic DW700 DeWalt SCMS and
its very basic leg stand. I used to use improvised supports for the
long end of long timbers.

More recently, I took the plunge an bought the 12" Bosch SCMS and the
bosch bench for it.

http://www.toolstop.co.uk/?option=sh...FRyB1Qod81ppPQ

This is sufficient to support 4.8m timbers, and because the timber
supports (one either end) and the saw are all on a common base - it's
all completely level and square.

It's a lot of dosh, but has transformed the way I work. I now have a
stack of 4.8m timbers at one end of the bench, and simply slide the
next one off the top of the bundle and up onto the bench and snip off
what I need.

I've found in practice I don't end up with a lot of short ends
(because I always look at the odd bits stacked vertically first), and
simply order another bundle from the BM's as necessary. By sticking to
the largest size my bench can handle comfortably, I think I've got it
as efficient as I can in terms of timber handling and simplified
ordering.

So my advice is - if you replace your SCMS - budget for a bench (and
you'll probably not want to go back to a handheld CS unless you have
to).

....and don't buy a cheap bench. I got a "free" one with Bosch saw from
Axminster. It's still lying about here, if anyone wants it.

"The Medway Handyman" wrote in message
om...

The downside is that the timber has to pass through the guide, I want
something I can just drop on top & clamp.

A square ply base with a strip at 90 degrees and an eccentric clamp made
from a 100 mm disk of ply.
Put it on, turn the disk to lock it and cut.

dennis@home wrote:
"The Medway Handyman" wrote in
message om...

The downside is that the timber has to pass through the guide, I want
something I can just drop on top & clamp.

A square ply base with a strip at 90 degrees and an eccentric clamp
made from a 100 mm disk of ply.
Put it on, turn the disk to lock it and cut.

Excellent! Thank you.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

The Medway Handyman wrote:

Having built around 25 decks, my Axminster White SCMS is in a bad way &
needs replacing. I'm in a quandary, do I buy an ALDI el cheapo and replace
as necessary or shell out on a decent brand for long term?

As another alternative you may find you can replace bits of the existing
one to return it to serviceable condition. Axminster sometimes have
spares for these things.

Spot on 100% accuracy isn't essential, its only used for decking - trimming
150 x 47 softwood or 147 x 28 deck boards.

You could do that with a 10" chop saw rather than a sliding one probably.

I'm now thinking do I need an SCMS at all? I have the idea of making up a
'sawboard' with a right angle fence (I think Dennis mentioned this idea) and
using a circular saw.

I don't mind buying a new power tool :-) but its not just the cost.

An SCMS is a bulky & heavy item to store & squeeze into the van and involves
double handling of the timber very often. I don't use a stand for the SCMS
because that often involves lifting a 4.8m 150 x 47 and then holding it in
place - PITA if you only have to trim 30cm off. Easier at floor level.

I can see the dilemma. Although I expect if you had one of the decent
stands like Dom suggested you would find its actually quite a
comfortable way of working. Using a sliding saw you can also stack up a
pile of boards and cut a number at a time. The big SCMS will probably do
8 deck boards at a time for example.

(my 12" SCMS and stand is lovely to use for this sort of thing, but it
is 'kin heavy to shift about. The Makita stand is nice and solid, but
being steel rather than Ali is pretty heavy just by itself).

It occurs to me that a sawboard & circular saw could be taken to the timber,
rather than taking the timber to the saw - I'd just need to support the end,
clamp on the sawboard & cut. Probably quicker.

Could be in some cases. As could be laying a number of boards overlength
and then trimming them all together with a hand held saw and a straight
edge.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

John Rumm wrote:
The Medway Handyman wrote:

Having built around 25 decks, my Axminster White SCMS is in a bad
way & needs replacing. I'm in a quandary, do I buy an ALDI el
cheapo and replace as necessary or shell out on a decent brand for
long term?

As another alternative you may find you can replace bits of the
existing one to return it to serviceable condition. Axminster
sometimes have spares for these things.

I've checked that out & they did have most of the parts, but at a fairly
high cost. Not far of the cost of a new Aldi or Titan one.

Spot on 100% accuracy isn't essential, its only used for decking -
trimming 150 x 47 softwood or 147 x 28 deck boards.

You could do that with a 10" chop saw rather than a sliding one
probably.

I've only seen one 250mm non slider that will cut a 150 x 47 and thats the
Titan from SF. At £60 its cheap enough. Most will only cut 130 - 140mm.

I'm now thinking do I need an SCMS at all? I have the idea of
making up a 'sawboard' with a right angle fence (I think Dennis
mentioned this idea) and using a circular saw.

I don't mind buying a new power tool :-) but its not just the cost.

An SCMS is a bulky & heavy item to store & squeeze into the van and
involves double handling of the timber very often. I don't use a
stand for the SCMS because that often involves lifting a 4.8m 150 x
47 and then holding it in place - PITA if you only have to trim 30cm
off. Easier at floor level.

I can see the dilemma. Although I expect if you had one of the decent
stands like Dom suggested you would find its actually quite a
comfortable way of working. Using a sliding saw you can also stack up
a pile of boards and cut a number at a time. The big SCMS will
probably do 8 deck boards at a time for example.

Still got to double handle the timber - lift it up onto the saw, then down
onto the floor. Plus getting the big stand into the van.

It occurs to me that a sawboard & circular saw could be taken to the
timber, rather than taking the timber to the saw - I'd just need to
support the end, clamp on the sawboard & cut. Probably quicker.

Could be in some cases. As could be laying a number of boards
overlength and then trimming them all together with a hand held saw
and a straight edge.

Easiest way is to trim the boards after they are laid, I use a sawbord &
circ saw. If you plan things correctly you can buy the boards almost the
right size - provided the supplier has that size in stock of course.

I spent an hour or so today mucking about with some 12mm ply & a strip of
ally angle.

After a few trials I ended up with a saw board based cross cut jig that
works a real treat. I have an old, but good, B&D circ saw with a 65mm dopth
of cut, so with 12mm ply it still gives 53mm capacity.

I'll give it a try on the next deck (prolly next year by now) & see how it
goes, but I reckon it will save time overall.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

You could do that with a 10" chop saw rather than a sliding one
probably.

I've only seen one 250mm non slider that will cut a 150 x 47 and thats the
Titan from SF. *At £60 its cheap enough. *Most will only cut 130 - 140mm.



I can recommend the SIP 10" extra wide saw. Cuts up to 68 x 160mm, and
is solidly built and powerful.

It's this model http://www.tapltd.co.uk/index.php?ap...show&ref=X1506
although they have been available for less than that - an ebay seller
had them on clearance for under £50 recently. It's basically the same
as their £150 10" sliding saw without the slide.

A

The Medway Handyman wrote:

I can see the dilemma. Although I expect if you had one of the decent
stands like Dom suggested you would find its actually quite a
comfortable way of working. Using a sliding saw you can also stack up
a pile of boards and cut a number at a time. The big SCMS will
probably do 8 deck boards at a time for example.

Still got to double handle the timber - lift it up onto the saw, then down
onto the floor. Plus getting the big stand into the van.

The double handling is not as bad as you would expect - just set up the
saw close to the pile of wood, measure you next cut and snip off what
you need - taking another plank from the pile if you need.

The stands fold up into a relatively small package (I suppose my one
goes down to something a bit bigger than a pipe bender). The alloy
versions are not that heavy. (you can usually use the wheels on them to
drag them along behind you anyway)

It occurs to me that a sawboard & circular saw could be taken to the
timber, rather than taking the timber to the saw - I'd just need to
support the end, clamp on the sawboard & cut. Probably quicker.
Could be in some cases. As could be laying a number of boards
overlength and then trimming them all together with a hand held saw
and a straight edge.

Easiest way is to trim the boards after they are laid, I use a sawbord &
circ saw. If you plan things correctly you can buy the boards almost the
right size - provided the supplier has that size in stock of course.

I spent an hour or so today mucking about with some 12mm ply & a strip of
ally angle.

After a few trials I ended up with a saw board based cross cut jig that
works a real treat. I have an old, but good, B&D circ saw with a 65mm dopth
of cut, so with 12mm ply it still gives 53mm capacity.

I'll give it a try on the next deck (prolly next year by now) & see how it
goes, but I reckon it will save time overall.

might do... hard to say until you try it.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

John Rumm wrote:
The Medway Handyman wrote:

I can see the dilemma. Although I expect if you had one of the
decent stands like Dom suggested you would find its actually quite a
comfortable way of working. Using a sliding saw you can also stack
up a pile of boards and cut a number at a time. The big SCMS will
probably do 8 deck boards at a time for example.

Still got to double handle the timber - lift it up onto the saw,
then down onto the floor. Plus getting the big stand into the van.

The double handling is not as bad as you would expect - just set up
the saw close to the pile of wood, measure you next cut and snip off
what you need - taking another plank from the pile if you need.

Trust me matey, it is :-)

I get the timber delivered the day before I start the deck. Invariably it
is dropped on the drive. Current proceedure - carry from drive to saw, cut
& carry to deck site. If I can cut it on the drive with a jig it takes out
an entire step.


The stands fold up into a relatively small package (I suppose my one
goes down to something a bit bigger than a pipe bender). The alloy
versions are not that heavy. (you can usually use the wheels on them
to drag them along behind you anyway)

I only have experience of the free stand that came with my Axminster saw.
Heavy & bulky on its own - and it's only a stand for the saw, no out
riggers.


It occurs to me that a sawboard & circular saw could be taken to
the timber, rather than taking the timber to the saw - I'd just
need to support the end, clamp on the sawboard & cut. Probably
quicker.
Could be in some cases. As could be laying a number of boards
overlength and then trimming them all together with a hand held saw
and a straight edge.

Easiest way is to trim the boards after they are laid, I use a
sawbord & circ saw. If you plan things correctly you can buy the
boards almost the right size - provided the supplier has that size
in stock of course. I spent an hour or so today mucking about with some
12mm ply & a
strip of ally angle.

After a few trials I ended up with a saw board based cross cut jig
that works a real treat. I have an old, but good, B&D circ saw with
a 65mm dopth of cut, so with 12mm ply it still gives 53mm capacity.

I'll give it a try on the next deck (prolly next year by now) & see
how it goes, but I reckon it will save time overall.

might do... hard to say until you try it.

Indeed. The proof is in the pudding as they say. I reckon its going to
work well though.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

The Medway Handyman wrote:
Having built around 25 decks, my Axminster White SCMS is in a bad way &
needs replacing. I'm in a quandary, do I buy an ALDI el cheapo and replace
as necessary or shell out on a decent brand for long term?

Spot on 100% accuracy isn't essential, its only used for decking - trimming
150 x 47 softwood or 147 x 28 deck boards.

I'm now thinking do I need an SCMS at all? I have the idea of making up a
'sawboard' with a right angle fence (I think Dennis mentioned this idea) and
using a circular saw.

I don't mind buying a new power tool :-) but its not just the cost.

An SCMS is a bulky & heavy item to store & squeeze into the van and involves
double handling of the timber very often. I don't use a stand for the SCMS
because that often involves lifting a 4.8m 150 x 47 and then holding it in
place - PITA if you only have to trim 30cm off. Easier at floor level.

It occurs to me that a sawboard & circular saw could be taken to the timber,
rather than taking the timber to the saw - I'd just need to support the end,
clamp on the sawboard & cut. Probably quicker.

Anyone see any snags in this cunning plan?



I use a made up ply T-square. The short bit of the cross piece is
(obviously) the distance from the blade to the fence, so you only have
to mark the timber and slide up to it. With rubber on the bottom you
don't even need to clamp it. You do need a small piece of ply on the
other end of the cross piece to keep it on the edge. Blimey, easier to
make one than describe how to. I'll post a pic if you're interested.

The Medway Handyman wrote:

I only have experience of the free stand that came with my Axminster saw.
Heavy & bulky on its own - and it's only a stand for the saw, no out
riggers.

The stand I have (middle one):

http://www.makitauk.com/index.php?pa...&id=49&catid=2

has sliding outriggers that mean you can work on stuff upto 5m long
without too much difficulty. They are height adjustable, and have
settable end stops for doing repeat cuts.

I found the ordinary stands (or just a workmate) are quite difficult to
use with longer timber since you are forever repositioning extra stands
etc to take the free end of the wood.



--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

stuart noble wrote:
The Medway Handyman wrote:
Having built around 25 decks, my Axminster White SCMS is in a bad
way & needs replacing. I'm in a quandary, do I buy an ALDI el
cheapo and replace as necessary or shell out on a decent brand for
long term? Spot on 100% accuracy isn't essential, its only used for
decking -
trimming 150 x 47 softwood or 147 x 28 deck boards.

I'm now thinking do I need an SCMS at all? I have the idea of
making up a 'sawboard' with a right angle fence (I think Dennis
mentioned this idea) and using a circular saw.

I don't mind buying a new power tool :-) but its not just the cost.

An SCMS is a bulky & heavy item to store & squeeze into the van and
involves double handling of the timber very often. I don't use a
stand for the SCMS because that often involves lifting a 4.8m 150 x
47 and then holding it in place - PITA if you only have to trim 30cm
off. Easier at floor level. It occurs to me that a sawboard & circular
saw could be taken to the
timber, rather than taking the timber to the saw - I'd just need to
support the end, clamp on the sawboard & cut. Probably quicker.

Anyone see any snags in this cunning plan?



I use a made up ply T-square. The short bit of the cross piece is
(obviously) the distance from the blade to the fence, so you only have
to mark the timber and slide up to it. With rubber on the bottom you
don't even need to clamp it. You do need a small piece of ply on the
other end of the cross piece to keep it on the edge. Blimey, easier to
make one than describe how to. I'll post a pic if you're interested.

I've made up a jig, but I'd like to see a picky of yours. I'll show you
mine if you show me yours :-)


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

The Medway Handyman wrote:
stuart noble wrote:
The Medway Handyman wrote:
Having built around 25 decks, my Axminster White SCMS is in a bad
way & needs replacing. I'm in a quandary, do I buy an ALDI el
cheapo and replace as necessary or shell out on a decent brand for
long term? Spot on 100% accuracy isn't essential, its only used for
decking -
trimming 150 x 47 softwood or 147 x 28 deck boards.

I'm now thinking do I need an SCMS at all? I have the idea of
making up a 'sawboard' with a right angle fence (I think Dennis
mentioned this idea) and using a circular saw.

I don't mind buying a new power tool :-) but its not just the cost.

An SCMS is a bulky & heavy item to store & squeeze into the van and
involves double handling of the timber very often. I don't use a
stand for the SCMS because that often involves lifting a 4.8m 150 x
47 and then holding it in place - PITA if you only have to trim 30cm
off. Easier at floor level. It occurs to me that a sawboard & circular
saw could be taken to the
timber, rather than taking the timber to the saw - I'd just need to
support the end, clamp on the sawboard & cut. Probably quicker.

Anyone see any snags in this cunning plan?


I use a made up ply T-square. The short bit of the cross piece is
(obviously) the distance from the blade to the fence, so you only have
to mark the timber and slide up to it. With rubber on the bottom you
don't even need to clamp it. You do need a small piece of ply on the
other end of the cross piece to keep it on the edge. Blimey, easier to
make one than describe how to. I'll post a pic if you're interested.

I've made up a jig, but I'd like to see a picky of yours. I'll show you
mine if you show me yours :-)


Did you see Little Britain in the US last night? Not always my
favourite, but you definitely reminded me of one scene... :-)

--
Rod

Hypothyroidism is a seriously debilitating condition with an insidious
onset.
Although common it frequently goes undiagnosed.
www.thyromind.info www.thyroiduk.org www.altsupportthyroid.org

The Medway Handyman wrote:
stuart noble wrote:
The Medway Handyman wrote:
Having built around 25 decks, my Axminster White SCMS is in a bad
way & needs replacing. I'm in a quandary, do I buy an ALDI el
cheapo and replace as necessary or shell out on a decent brand for
long term? Spot on 100% accuracy isn't essential, its only used for
decking -
trimming 150 x 47 softwood or 147 x 28 deck boards.

I'm now thinking do I need an SCMS at all? I have the idea of
making up a 'sawboard' with a right angle fence (I think Dennis
mentioned this idea) and using a circular saw.

I don't mind buying a new power tool :-) but its not just the cost.

An SCMS is a bulky & heavy item to store & squeeze into the van and
involves double handling of the timber very often. I don't use a
stand for the SCMS because that often involves lifting a 4.8m 150 x
47 and then holding it in place - PITA if you only have to trim 30cm
off. Easier at floor level. It occurs to me that a sawboard & circular
saw could be taken to the
timber, rather than taking the timber to the saw - I'd just need to
support the end, clamp on the sawboard & cut. Probably quicker.

Anyone see any snags in this cunning plan?


I use a made up ply T-square. The short bit of the cross piece is
(obviously) the distance from the blade to the fence, so you only have
to mark the timber and slide up to it. With rubber on the bottom you
don't even need to clamp it. You do need a small piece of ply on the
other end of the cross piece to keep it on the edge. Blimey, easier to
make one than describe how to. I'll post a pic if you're interested.

I've made up a jig, but I'd like to see a picky of yours. I'll show you
mine if you show me yours :-)



http://i36.tinypic.com/24lmwqr.jpg

A is the sawcut, and B the bit that keeps it on the edge of the timber.
Of course it's upside down and the camera has played havoc with the
perspective (it really is a 90 deg angle!)

stuart noble wrote:

http://i36.tinypic.com/24lmwqr.jpg

A is the sawcut, and B the bit that keeps it on the edge of the timber.
Of course it's upside down and the camera has played havoc with the
perspective (it really is a 90 deg angle!)

Am I the only one that thought:

http://www.internode.co.uk/temp/24lmwqr-mk2.jpg



--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

stuart noble wrote:

I use a made up ply T-square. The short bit of the cross piece is
(obviously) the distance from the blade to the fence, so you only
have to mark the timber and slide up to it. With rubber on the
bottom you don't even need to clamp it. You do need a small piece
of ply on the other end of the cross piece to keep it on the edge.
Blimey, easier to make one than describe how to. I'll post a pic if
you're interested.

I've made up a jig, but I'd like to see a picky of yours. I'll show
you mine if you show me yours :-)



http://i36.tinypic.com/24lmwqr.jpg

A is the sawcut, and B the bit that keeps it on the edge of the
timber. Of course it's upside down and the camera has played havoc
with the perspective (it really is a 90 deg angle!)

So it doesn't use the sawboard principle? One thing I like about the
sawboard is that it reduces splintering on the upper surface.

I'll post a pic of mine 2moro out of interest.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

John Rumm wrote:
stuart noble wrote:

http://i36.tinypic.com/24lmwqr.jpg

A is the sawcut, and B the bit that keeps it on the edge of the
timber. Of course it's upside down and the camera has played havoc
with the perspective (it really is a 90 deg angle!)

Am I the only one that thought:

http://www.internode.co.uk/temp/24lmwqr-mk2.jpg



Probably :-)

The Medway Handyman wrote:
stuart noble wrote:

I use a made up ply T-square. The short bit of the cross piece is
(obviously) the distance from the blade to the fence, so you only
have to mark the timber and slide up to it. With rubber on the
bottom you don't even need to clamp it. You do need a small piece
of ply on the other end of the cross piece to keep it on the edge.
Blimey, easier to make one than describe how to. I'll post a pic if
you're interested.
I've made up a jig, but I'd like to see a picky of yours. I'll show
you mine if you show me yours :-)


http://i36.tinypic.com/24lmwqr.jpg
A is the sawcut, and B the bit that keeps it on the edge of the
timber. Of course it's upside down and the camera has played havoc
with the perspective (it really is a 90 deg angle!)

So it doesn't use the sawboard principle? One thing I like about the
sawboard is that it reduces splintering on the upper surface.

Dunno. IME splintering is usually the result of the blade chattering,
which in turn is caused by lack of sustained downward and forward
pressure when pushing the saw. I've cut worktops and trimmed door
bottoms with no problems.


I'll post a pic of mine 2moro out of interest.



Yes, I'd be interested. I knocked this up 20 years ago to do one quick
job ...........:-)

On Sat, 8 Nov 2008 06:22:24 -0800 (PST), "
wrote:

More recently, I took the plunge an bought the 12" Bosch SCMS and the
bosch bench for it.

http://www.toolstop.co.uk/?option=sh...FRyB1Qod81ppPQ

This is sufficient to support 4.8m timbers, and because the timber
supports (one either end) and the saw are all on a common base - it's
all completely level and square.

I can't see how is sufficient for 4.8m timber, it's just 3.7m long or
1.85m either side of the saw line. If lopping off say 100mm from a
4.8m length there will be 2.85m overhanging the end of the left hand
support, more than enough for it to overbalance the free end.


--

Mike wrote:
On Sat, 8 Nov 2008 06:22:24 -0800 (PST), "
wrote:

More recently, I took the plunge an bought the 12" Bosch SCMS and the
bosch bench for it.

http://www.toolstop.co.uk/?option=sh...FRyB1Qod81ppPQ

This is sufficient to support 4.8m timbers, and because the timber
supports (one either end) and the saw are all on a common base - it's
all completely level and square.

I can't see how is sufficient for 4.8m timber, it's just 3.7m long or
1.85m either side of the saw line. If lopping off say 100mm from a
4.8m length there will be 2.85m overhanging the end of the left hand
support, more than enough for it to overbalance the free end.



This is presumably partly why TMH is thinking saw to wood rather than
wood to saw.

I can't see how is sufficient for 4.8m timber, it's just 3.7m long or
1.85m either side of the saw line. If lopping off say 100mm from a
4.8m length there will be 2.85m overhanging the end of the left hand
support, more than enough for it to overbalance the free end.

You clamp the saw down at one end of the bench, and it's exactly 2.2m
from the line of the blade to the furthest support.

(those pics of it with the saw in the middle is just the work of the
clueless photographers)

I'm right-handed, so the saw is set at the extreme right of my bench
(of the non-extendable area) and just as you would normally press the
timber against the back fence with your left hand - so you do with a
slightly overlength timber, to support it during & after the cut.

In practice, you would very rarely trim 100mm from one end of a 4.8m
timber anyway.

stuart noble wrote:
Mike wrote:
On Sat, 8 Nov 2008 06:22:24 -0800 (PST), "
wrote:

More recently, I took the plunge an bought the 12" Bosch SCMS and
the bosch bench for it.

http://www.toolstop.co.uk/?option=sh...FRyB1Qod81ppPQ

This is sufficient to support 4.8m timbers, and because the timber
supports (one either end) and the saw are all on a common base -
it's all completely level and square.

I can't see how is sufficient for 4.8m timber, it's just 3.7m long or
1.85m either side of the saw line. If lopping off say 100mm from a
4.8m length there will be 2.85m overhanging the end of the left hand
support, more than enough for it to overbalance the free end.



This is presumably partly why TMH is thinking saw to wood rather than
wood to saw.

Ferzacerly.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

wrote:
I can't see how is sufficient for 4.8m timber, it's just 3.7m long or
1.85m either side of the saw line. If lopping off say 100mm from a
4.8m length there will be 2.85m overhanging the end of the left hand
support, more than enough for it to overbalance the free end.

You clamp the saw down at one end of the bench, and it's exactly 2.2m
from the line of the blade to the furthest support.

(those pics of it with the saw in the middle is just the work of the
clueless photographers)

I'm right-handed, so the saw is set at the extreme right of my bench
(of the non-extendable area) and just as you would normally press the
timber against the back fence with your left hand - so you do with a
slightly overlength timber, to support it during & after the cut.

In practice, you would very rarely trim 100mm from one end of a 4.8m
timber anyway.

Quite common when deck building, granted 100mm isn't common, but cutting a
sort length (250-300mm) is. Depends what the supplier has in stock & how
big the deck is.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

Quite common when deck building, granted 100mm isn't common, but cutting a
sort length (250-300mm) is. *Depends what the supplier has in stock & how
big the deck is.

Lol - but next to never do you cut a 100mm to *use* from a 4.8m timber
- you cut it from your heap of short oddments.

You might occasionally trim a 4.8m to a 4.7m - and that's perfectly
doable on those benches.

For studding it's preferable to have long timbers for headers and
footers (but rarely longer than 4.8m) and slightly less than 2.4m in
standard height rooms (or all bloody sorts in my chapel - up to 4.2m)
and then lots of noggins a little under 600mm.

wrote:
Quite common when deck building, granted 100mm isn't common, but
cutting a sort length (250-300mm) is. Depends what the supplier has
in stock & how big the deck is.

Lol - but next to never do you cut a 100mm to *use* from a 4.8m timber
- you cut it from your heap of short oddments.

You might occasionally trim a 4.8m to a 4.7m - and that's perfectly
doable on those benches.

Sorry, should have said 'trim off'. I do cut a lot of 400mm noggins though.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

The Medway Handyman wrote:
wrote:
Quite common when deck building, granted 100mm isn't common, but
cutting a sort length (250-300mm) is. Depends what the supplier has
in stock & how big the deck is.
Lol - but next to never do you cut a 100mm to *use* from a 4.8m timber
- you cut it from your heap of short oddments.

You might occasionally trim a 4.8m to a 4.7m - and that's perfectly
doable on those benches.

Sorry, should have said 'trim off'. I do cut a lot of 400mm noggins though.

That is the sort of job the bench is very good fir I find. Set an end
stop, load up a few lengths of timber, chop, slide, chop etc producing
several noggings per cut and loads of copies all to exact length.

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

stuart noble wrote:
The Medway Handyman wrote:
stuart noble wrote:

I use a made up ply T-square. The short bit of the cross piece is
(obviously) the distance from the blade to the fence, so you only
have to mark the timber and slide up to it. With rubber on the
bottom you don't even need to clamp it. You do need a small piece
of ply on the other end of the cross piece to keep it on the edge.
Blimey, easier to make one than describe how to. I'll post a pic
if you're interested.
I've made up a jig, but I'd like to see a picky of yours. I'll
show you mine if you show me yours :-)


http://i36.tinypic.com/24lmwqr.jpg
A is the sawcut, and B the bit that keeps it on the edge of the
timber. Of course it's upside down and the camera has played havoc
with the perspective (it really is a 90 deg angle!)

So it doesn't use the sawboard principle? One thing I like about the
sawboard is that it reduces splintering on the upper surface.

Dunno. IME splintering is usually the result of the blade chattering,
which in turn is caused by lack of sustained downward and forward
pressure when pushing the saw. I've cut worktops and trimmed door
bottoms with no problems.


I'll post a pic of mine 2moro out of interest.



Yes, I'd be interested. I knocked this up 20 years ago to do one quick
job ...........:-)

Pickys here
http://s99.photobucket.com/albums/l2...otos/sawboard/


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

The Medway Handyman wrote:
stuart noble wrote:
The Medway Handyman wrote:
stuart noble wrote:

I use a made up ply T-square. The short bit of the cross piece is
(obviously) the distance from the blade to the fence, so you only
have to mark the timber and slide up to it. With rubber on the
bottom you don't even need to clamp it. You do need a small piece
of ply on the other end of the cross piece to keep it on the edge.
Blimey, easier to make one than describe how to. I'll post a pic
if you're interested.
I've made up a jig, but I'd like to see a picky of yours. I'll
show you mine if you show me yours :-)


http://i36.tinypic.com/24lmwqr.jpg
A is the sawcut, and B the bit that keeps it on the edge of the
timber. Of course it's upside down and the camera has played havoc
with the perspective (it really is a 90 deg angle!)
So it doesn't use the sawboard principle? One thing I like about the
sawboard is that it reduces splintering on the upper surface.
Dunno. IME splintering is usually the result of the blade chattering,
which in turn is caused by lack of sustained downward and forward
pressure when pushing the saw. I've cut worktops and trimmed door
bottoms with no problems.

I'll post a pic of mine 2moro out of interest.


Yes, I'd be interested. I knocked this up 20 years ago to do one quick
job ...........:-)

Pickys here
http://s99.photobucket.com/albums/l2...otos/sawboard/


I think with a bottom piece (as in T square) you wouldn't need to clamp,
but they're all variations on the basic sawboard principle. Discourages
you from changing your saw too often and having to make a new jig (and
put a cute little handle on it :-))

stuart noble wrote:


I think with a bottom piece (as in T square) you wouldn't need to
clamp, but they're all variations on the basic sawboard principle.
Discourages you from changing your saw too often and having to make a
new jig (and put a cute little handle on it :-))

I tried mine out yesterday cutting deck boards to make planters, needs some
modifications. I reckon yours might be better, I'll make one up & try it
out - it will have to have a cute little handle though :-)


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

The Medway Handyman wrote:
stuart noble wrote:

I think with a bottom piece (as in T square) you wouldn't need to
clamp, but they're all variations on the basic sawboard principle.
Discourages you from changing your saw too often and having to make a
new jig (and put a cute little handle on it :-))

I tried mine out yesterday cutting deck boards to make planters, needs some
modifications. I reckon yours might be better, I'll make one up & try it
out - it will have to have a cute little handle though :-)


Ideally you want your thumb on the bottom edge of the cross piece with
room for four fingers flat on the long bit, so I suppose 2"x 1" for the
bottom and 4" X 1/4" for the rest? For stuff like decking, where you
know the edge is straight, the cross piece can be short. Obviously one
side is the blade/baseplate distance, and the other could be the same,
which means you wouldn't need the little lip to keep it balanced. I've
never thought about it this much before :-)