stuart noble wrote:
The Medway Handyman wrote:
stuart noble wrote:

I use a made up ply T-square. The short bit of the cross piece is
(obviously) the distance from the blade to the fence, so you only
have to mark the timber and slide up to it. With rubber on the
bottom you don't even need to clamp it. You do need a small piece
of ply on the other end of the cross piece to keep it on the edge.
Blimey, easier to make one than describe how to. I'll post a pic
if you're interested.
I've made up a jig, but I'd like to see a picky of yours. I'll
show you mine if you show me yours :-)


http://i36.tinypic.com/24lmwqr.jpg
A is the sawcut, and B the bit that keeps it on the edge of the
timber. Of course it's upside down and the camera has played havoc
with the perspective (it really is a 90 deg angle!)

So it doesn't use the sawboard principle? One thing I like about the
sawboard is that it reduces splintering on the upper surface.

Dunno. IME splintering is usually the result of the blade chattering,
which in turn is caused by lack of sustained downward and forward
pressure when pushing the saw. I've cut worktops and trimmed door
bottoms with no problems.


I'll post a pic of mine 2moro out of interest.



Yes, I'd be interested. I knocked this up 20 years ago to do one quick
job ...........:-)

Pickys here
http://s99.photobucket.com/albums/l2...otos/sawboard/


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk