Right, now I'm confused. I've bought Screwfix's Kaindl glueless laminate
floor system and the front of the instructions shows a symbol representing a
tube of glue with crossing out through it. Although I'm no expert, based on
the above I'd be betting that there was no glue required for the installation.

But.. step 12 on the detailed instructions shows what looks like glue being
spread along the tongue of the mating section prior to jointing to the
adjacent plank. Huh?

Does the "glueless" in glueless laminate floor refer to the fact that the
floor isn't glued to the floorboards / slab below, but not necessarily that it
isn't glued together? Seems a bit daft if that's the case, but I can't think
of another explanation for the instructions involving glueing of the planks.

--
Abso

Abso wrote:
Right, now I'm confused. I've bought Screwfix's Kaindl glueless laminate
floor system and the front of the instructions shows a symbol representing a
tube of glue with crossing out through it. Although I'm no expert, based on
the above I'd be betting that there was no glue required for the installation.

But.. step 12 on the detailed instructions shows what looks like glue being
spread along the tongue of the mating section prior to jointing to the
adjacent plank. Huh?

Does the "glueless" in glueless laminate floor refer to the fact that the
floor isn't glued to the floorboards / slab below, but not necessarily that it
isn't glued together? Seems a bit daft if that's the case, but I can't think
of another explanation for the instructions involving glueing of the planks.

Look at the tongues and grooves. Are they profiled so they lock
together? If yes, then no glue is required.

But - if you're installing it in a kitchen or bathroom, then
you'd glue it. The instructions are merely telling you when
you'd apply the glue if you were going to glue.

--
Grunff

"Grunff" wrote in message
...
Abso wrote:
snip
Does the "glueless" in glueless laminate floor refer to the fact that the
floor isn't glued to the floorboards / slab below, but not necessarily
that it
isn't glued together? Seems a bit daft if that's the case, but I can't
think
of another explanation for the instructions involving glueing of the
planks.

Look at the tongues and grooves. Are they profiled so they lock
together?

Yes they are.

If yes, then no glue is required.

Oh right, cool.

But - if you're installing it in a kitchen or bathroom, then
you'd glue it. The instructions are merely telling you when
you'd apply the glue if you were going to glue.

So you'd only glue when you need a waterproof seal? That doesn't apply to my
living room then. Ta for the reply.

--
Abso

"Gnube" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 11 Jul 2003 23:13:37 +0100, "Abso"
wrote:

snip
So you'd only glue when you need a waterproof seal? That doesn't apply to
my
living room then. Ta for the reply.

I think instruction 13 helps here too, as it shows the glue in
brackets, which sort of looks like they are suggesting it as an
option.

I am not fully clear on it, but it also looks like you may want to
optionally glue it if the room's properties for temp and moisture
commonly exceed the suggested figures too - seemingly 18-28c are good
for temps and 45%70% are ok for humidity.

Makes sense.

Not the most obvious instruction sheet I've ever seen to be honest! I
think /some/ words would have been a tad reassuring! ;O)

Heh, yep, but I think they're trying to keep it multilingual by having no
words at all. That doesn't work too well if the pictures are as inpenetrable
as they are.

--
Abso

"Abso" wrote in message
...
Right, now I'm confused. I've bought Screwfix's Kaindl glueless laminate
floor system and the front of the instructions shows a symbol representing
a
tube of glue with crossing out through it. Although I'm no expert, based
on
the above I'd be betting that there was no glue required for the
installation.

But.. step 12 on the detailed instructions shows what looks like glue
being
spread along the tongue of the mating section prior to jointing to the
adjacent plank. Huh?

Does the "glueless" in glueless laminate floor refer to the fact that the
floor isn't glued to the floorboards / slab below, but not necessarily
that it
isn't glued together? Seems a bit daft if that's the case, but I can't
think
of another explanation for the instructions involving glueing of the
planks.

--
Abso




I should wear me' glasses when trying to read these posts. :-)) I've just
read the subject as " Clueless Laminate Floor and Glue ". Now where's me'
specs' till I find out what this is all about. :-))


---
BigWallop

http://basecuritysystems.no-ip.com

Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.500 / Virus Database: 298 - Release Date: 10/07/03

"BigWallop" wrote in message
...

"Abso" wrote in message
...
Right, now I'm confused. I've bought Screwfix's Kaindl glueless laminate
floor system and the front of the instructions shows a symbol representing
a
tube of glue with crossing out through it. Although I'm no expert, based
on
the above I'd be betting that there was no glue required for the
installation.
snip



I should wear me' glasses when trying to read these posts. :-)) I've just
read the subject as " Clueless Laminate Floor and Glue ". Now where's me'
specs' till I find out what this is all about. :-))

Heh, but a fair description of the original poster. On that basis I'll feel
free to ask a dumb sounding question:

What's the best way to cut laminate flooring. I have a hacksaw but it's so
small it wouldn't cut right through a plank even if I attack from both sides.
My tenon saw might do the trick for cutting planks in half, but I think I
might struggle cutting around obstructions. Therefore I think I need to
invest in a thin bladed saw, but whether a powered jigsaw is the thing, or
simply a larger framed hacksaw or even a coping saw, I'm undecided. Anyone?

--
Abso

Abso wrote:

Heh, but a fair description of the original poster. On that basis I'll feel
free to ask a dumb sounding question:

What's the best way to cut laminate flooring. I have a hacksaw but it's so
small it wouldn't cut right through a plank even if I attack from both sides.
My tenon saw might do the trick for cutting planks in half, but I think I
might struggle cutting around obstructions. Therefore I think I need to
invest in a thin bladed saw, but whether a powered jigsaw is the thing, or
simply a larger framed hacksaw or even a coping saw, I'm undecided. Anyone?

My favourite method is a sliding chopsaw, but you can do a
reasonable cut with a good jigsaw.

--
Grunff

On Sat, 12 Jul 2003 23:27:18 +0100, "Abso"
wrote:

Not the most obvious instruction sheet I've ever seen to be honest! I
think /some/ words would have been a tad reassuring! ;O)

Heh, yep, but I think they're trying to keep it multilingual by having no
words at all. That doesn't work too well if the pictures are as inpenetrable
as they are.

As a result of their decision, I can easily imagine this conversation
is being had by a smallish group across the whole of Europe as they
ALL now struggle with it's consequence! ;O)

Actually, their web site http://www.kaindl.com/en/ can be helpful in a
slightly abrupt manner at times. They seem to know wood pretty well,
but communication seems to have them slightly banjaxed.

What did you make of the "pull iron" tool they seem to want you to use
in the details? looks like a bit of bent flat bar to me - never seen
one for sale anywhere so far though! Still wondering what the best
equivalent might be for that. I'll maybe try and make something.

Take Care,
Gnube

On Sun, 13 Jul 2003 12:22:15 +0100, "Abso"
wrote:

What's the best way to cut laminate flooring. I have a hacksaw but it's so
small it wouldn't cut right through a plank even if I attack from both sides.
My tenon saw might do the trick for cutting planks in half, but I think I
might struggle cutting around obstructions. Therefore I think I need to
invest in a thin bladed saw, but whether a powered jigsaw is the thing, or
simply a larger framed hacksaw or even a coping saw, I'm undecided. Anyone?

I ended up investing in a Freud 7 1/4" circular, and a mitre board for
this job and future ones, I have quite a number of cuts to make, and
this can aid the consistency in making them.

With the addition of a Freud 40T pro blade, it cuts very clean, and
that's even sawing with right side facing up! Overall a nice tool for
the job, but I suspect it may not be an "essential" as such.

A jigsaw with a home made saw board could get you there if the JS and
the selected blade are any good to start with - I'm told that straight
and square is something you should not need too badly in theory
(beading covers the edges), however in practice both could well give
you a nicer day while doing it I'd imagine. You'd probably have an
interesting time trying to clamp it to cut it with that arrangement in
certain situations though.

Take Care,
Gnube

On Sun, 13 Jul 2003 12:43:28 +0100, Gnube
wrote:

What did you make of the "pull iron" tool they seem to want you to use
in the details? looks like a bit of bent flat bar to me - never seen
one for sale anywhere so far though! Still wondering what the best
equivalent might be for that. I'll maybe try and make something.

I know those -- bent flat bar, hook behind the last bit of flooring,
step to hammer against and pull the flooring together.

The better ones have a little block of metal welded to them to hammer
against. Just a Z-shaped piece of bar will be pounded out of shape
eventually.

Very useful if the last bit is under a radiator or otherwise
inaccessible, otherwise, any lever wedged between wall and flooring
will also work.

Thomas Prufer

"Gnube" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 14 Jul 2003 07:59:27 +0200, Thomas Prufer
wrote:

On Sun, 13 Jul 2003 12:43:28 +0100, Gnube
wrote:

What did you make of the "pull iron" tool they seem to want you to use
in the details? looks like a bit of bent flat bar to me - never seen
one for sale anywhere so far though! Still wondering what the best
equivalent might be for that. I'll maybe try and make something.

I know those -- bent flat bar, hook behind the last bit of flooring,
step to hammer against and pull the flooring together.

The better ones have a little block of metal welded to them to hammer
against. Just a Z-shaped piece of bar will be pounded out of shape
eventually.

Very useful if the last bit is under a radiator or otherwise
inaccessible, otherwise, any lever wedged between wall and flooring
will also work.

Thanks for that, I now have a plan!

Take Care,
Gnube

The only thing with levering, rather than straight pulling, is it has the
tendency to lift or lower the edge being levered and put an angle one the
joint your trying to put it in to.


---
BigWallop

http://basecuritysystems.no-ip.com

Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.500 / Virus Database: 298 - Release Date: 10/07/03

On Mon, 14 Jul 2003 11:49:23 GMT, "BigWallop"
wrote:

The only thing with levering, rather than straight pulling, is it has the
tendency to lift or lower the edge being levered and put an angle one the
joint your trying to put it in to.

That's why I am going to make a "bash block" with an offset "bash
point" I got no shame! ;O)

Take Care,
Gnube