Hello,

How do you add Sentinel X100 concentrate via a radiator on a sealed
system?

Do you have to partially drain the radiator?

wrote in message
...
Hello,

How do you add Sentinel X100 concentrate via a radiator on a sealed
system?

Do you have to partially drain the radiator?

What I would do is to turn off both valves then loosen one of the
connections at the radiator side of the valve to drain out some of the
(carpet staining) water - open the bleed valve to allow the water to run
out - then re-tighten and inject the Sentinel into the bleed valve. However
my radiators have a large bung in the top which has the bleed valve in it -
I have a square key to remove the bung- then re-fit using PTFE tape.

If I ever fit a system of my dreams it will have a drain point to the
outside of the house and a dosing point (whatever one is)

On 1 Nov, 13:47, "John" wrote:
wrote in message

... Hello,

How do you add Sentinel X100 concentrate via a radiator on a sealed
system?

Do you have to partially drain the radiator?

What I would do is to turn off both valves then loosen one of the
connections at the radiator side of the valve to drain out some of the
(carpet staining) water *- open the bleed valve to allow the water to run
out *- then re-tighten and inject the Sentinel into the bleed valve. However
my radiators have a large bung in the top which has the bleed valve in it -
I have a square key to remove the bung- then re-fit using PTFE tape.

If I ever fit a system of my dreams it will have a drain point to the
outside of the house and a dosing point (whatever one is)

Sounds too complicated for me.

My system is new, it has a drain point in the passage and kitchen, you
connect a hose pipe and away you go, the drain points are very close
to doors leading to outside.

In case your wondering why the system does not have inhibitor, it
actually did until my son opened the drain point and drained the
system onto the carpet!

On Sat, 1 Nov 2008 13:47:09 -0000, "John"
wrote:


wrote in message
...
Hello,

How do you add Sentinel X100 concentrate via a radiator on a sealed
system?

Do you have to partially drain the radiator?

What I would do is to turn off both valves then loosen one of the
connections at the radiator side of the valve to drain out some of the
(carpet staining) water - open the bleed valve to allow the water to run
out - then re-tighten and inject the Sentinel into the bleed valve. However
my radiators have a large bung in the top which has the bleed valve in it -
I have a square key to remove the bung- then re-fit using PTFE tape.

If I ever fit a system of my dreams it will have a drain point to the
outside of the house and a dosing point (whatever one is)

18 months ago I got my CH boiler replaced and I made sure the guy
connected up the existing drain pipe to the outside down pipe and also
fitted a filling point beside the boiler for the concentrate .It's
just a branch off the pipe from the boiler which is turned upwards for
a few inches and has a compression stop on the end that you remove
when it needs refilled or topped up.

wrote:
Hello,

How do you add Sentinel X100 concentrate via a radiator on a sealed
system?

Do you have to partially drain the radiator?

Yes. Close both valves to isolate the rad. Wickes do a small rubber pump
kit
http://www.wickes.co.uk/MaintenanceI...or/invt/159829

Remove the bleed valve & bung using one of these
http://www.wickes.co.uk/Plumbing-Too...ey/invt/500042.

The gizmo will suck out a suitable amount of water & pump back the
inhibitor.

Easy peasy lemon squeezy.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

In article ,
wrote:
If I ever fit a system of my dreams it will have a drain point to the
outside of the house and a dosing point (whatever one is)

18 months ago I got my CH boiler replaced and I made sure the guy
connected up the existing drain pipe to the outside down pipe and also
fitted a filling point beside the boiler for the concentrate .It's
just a branch off the pipe from the boiler which is turned upwards for
a few inches and has a compression stop on the end that you remove
when it needs refilled or topped up.

You'll still need to drain down before adding concentrate - and rather
further than if you use the highest rad in the house.
In other words, drain about a bucket full out of a sealed system. Add the
concentrate via the bleed valve on the highest rad. Then refill and with
luck only that rad or it and the others on that level will need bleeding.

--
*Why is it called tourist season if we can't shoot at them?

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

wrote:
On 1 Nov, 13:47, "John" wrote:
wrote in message

...
Hello,

How do you add Sentinel X100 concentrate via a radiator on a sealed
system?

Do you have to partially drain the radiator?

What I would do is to turn off both valves then loosen one of the
connections at the radiator side of the valve to drain out some of
the (carpet staining) water - open the bleed valve to allow the
water to run
out - then re-tighten and inject the Sentinel into the bleed valve.
However
my radiators have a large bung in the top which has the bleed valve
in it -
I have a square key to remove the bung- then re-fit using PTFE tape.

If I ever fit a system of my dreams it will have a drain point to the
outside of the house and a dosing point (whatever one is)

Sounds too complicated for me.

My system is new, it has a drain point in the passage and kitchen, you
connect a hose pipe and away you go, the drain points are very close
to doors leading to outside.

In case your wondering why the system does not have inhibitor, it
actually did until my son opened the drain point and drained the
system onto the carpet!

It really isn't that hard - do you have a towel rail in the bathroom?

If so, these are usually the easiest, especially if it is one with a bleed
valve at the top, like this one here
The rail
http://www.bathroomheaven.com/upload...e_standard.jpg
The bleed valve
http://www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/to...leed_screw.jpg

If you turn off the radiator on both valves (Count the turns on the valve
that you don't usually turn off (the lock shield) so when you turn it back
on, you can put it back how it was.

Now the valve will resemble something like this
http://www.tradeplumbing.co.uk/asset...-Valve-chr.jpg

if you loosen it after the valve (so the part closest to the radiator) water
should start to come out, so be prepared to catch it in something, and put
an old towel down.

It will only let a little out (as air cant get in yet) so when it stops, you
need to undo the bleed screw at the top to let more out. (You don't need to
take the bleed screw all the way out, just a half turn should do)

You need to let out a little more than thee amount of X100 you wish to add.

Once you have done this, you can, if it is the same as the one in the
picture, undo the whole cap on the top, to reveal a large hole, ready for
you to pour the X100 in with a steady hand, or a funnel.

Once this is done, screw the plug back on, and re-tighten the bleed screw.
Now make sure the connection you undid at the bottom is fully tightened, and
then turn on one of the valves.

Inspect for any leaks at the bottom!

Now unscrew the small bleed screw at the top a little, and let all the air
out (until water starts to squire out) then tighten the bleed screw.

Now put the lock shield valve back to it's original position, and
congratulate yourself of a job well done :-)

Toby...

In article ,
"John" writes:

wrote in message
...
Hello,

How do you add Sentinel X100 concentrate via a radiator on a sealed
system?

Do you have to partially drain the radiator?

What I would do is to turn off both valves then loosen one of the
connections at the radiator side of the valve to drain out some of the
(carpet staining) water - open the bleed valve to allow the water to run
out - then re-tighten and inject the Sentinel into the bleed valve. However
my radiators have a large bung in the top which has the bleed valve in it -
I have a square key to remove the bung- then re-fit using PTFE tape.

If I ever fit a system of my dreams it will have a drain point to the
outside of the house and a dosing point (whatever one is)

I did something similar, except I drained from the drain point
rather than unscrewing a radiator connector. One thing I over-
estimated was the amount of water in a modern radiator. I
drained it down a bit thinking I could pour in a litre through
the removed blanking plug, and got less than half that in
before the radiator was filled. Modern radiators have a rather
small water volume (which makes good sense).

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

On Sat, 01 Nov 2008 14:43:35 +0000 (GMT), "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:

In article ,
wrote:
If I ever fit a system of my dreams it will have a drain point to the
outside of the house and a dosing point (whatever one is)

18 months ago I got my CH boiler replaced and I made sure the guy
connected up the existing drain pipe to the outside down pipe and also
fitted a filling point beside the boiler for the concentrate .It's
just a branch off the pipe from the boiler which is turned upwards for
a few inches and has a compression stop on the end that you remove
when it needs refilled or topped up.

You'll still need to drain down before adding concentrate - and rather
further than if you use the highest rad in the house.
In other words, drain about a bucket full out of a sealed system. Add the
concentrate via the bleed valve on the highest rad. Then refill and with
luck only that rad or it and the others on that level will need bleeding.

I take it that reply is directed at the OP?

On 1 Nov, 16:05, wrote:
On Sat, 01 Nov 2008 14:43:35 +0000 (GMT), "Dave Plowman (News)"



wrote:
In article ,
* wrote:
If I ever fit a system of my dreams it will have a drain point to the
outside of the house and a dosing point (whatever one is)

18 months ago I got my CH boiler replaced and I made sure the guy
connected up the existing drain pipe to the outside down pipe and also
fitted a filling point beside the boiler for the concentrate *.It's
just a branch off the pipe from the boiler which is turned upwards for
a few inches and has a compression stop on the end that you remove
when it needs refilled or topped up.

You'll still need to drain down before adding concentrate - and rather
further than if you use the highest rad in the house.
In other words, drain about a bucket full out of a sealed system. Add the
concentrate via the bleed valve on the highest rad. Then refill and with
luck only that rad or it and the others on that level will need bleeding..

I take it that reply is directed at the OP?

Thanks to all,
I bought Fernox Super concentrate, all I had to do was turn of the
valves on the radiator, remove the bleed screw, insert the adapter,
open wheel valve, pump in the inhibitor, close the wheel valve and
close the vent screw. Re open valves to original positions.

Very easy and quick, the inhibitor comes in a silicon type tube and
you use a silicon gun for pumping it in, the product comes with all
adapters.





Although it may sound tedious, it wasn't bad at all.

Thanks to all,
I bought Fernox Super concentrate, all I had to do was turn of the
valves on the radiator, remove the bleed screw, insert the adapter,
open wheel valve, pump in the inhibitor, close the wheel valve and
close the vent screw. Re open valves to original positions.

Very easy and quick, the inhibitor comes in a silicon type tube and
you use a silicon gun for pumping it in, the product comes with all
adapters.





Although it may sound tedious, it wasn't bad at all.

Sounds a good product - but not sure how you managed to inject a quality of
anything into a full radiator with the valves off - so there was nowhere for
the displaced liquid to go.

Perhaps there was some air space.

In article ,
wrote:
18 months ago I got my CH boiler replaced and I made sure the guy
connected up the existing drain pipe to the outside down pipe and also
fitted a filling point beside the boiler for the concentrate .It's
just a branch off the pipe from the boiler which is turned upwards for
a few inches and has a compression stop on the end that you remove
when it needs refilled or topped up.

You'll still need to drain down before adding concentrate - and rather
further than if you use the highest rad in the house. In other words,
drain about a bucket full out of a sealed system. Add the concentrate
via the bleed valve on the highest rad. Then refill and with luck only
that rad or it and the others on that level will need bleeding.

I take it that reply is directed at the OP?

No - to you.

--
*The average person falls asleep in seven minutes *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Sun, 02 Nov 2008 12:25:44 +0000 (GMT), "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:

In article ,
wrote:
18 months ago I got my CH boiler replaced and I made sure the guy
connected up the existing drain pipe to the outside down pipe and also
fitted a filling point beside the boiler for the concentrate .It's
just a branch off the pipe from the boiler which is turned upwards for
a few inches and has a compression stop on the end that you remove
when it needs refilled or topped up.

You'll still need to drain down before adding concentrate - and rather
further than if you use the highest rad in the house. In other words,
drain about a bucket full out of a sealed system. Add the concentrate
via the bleed valve on the highest rad. Then refill and with luck only
that rad or it and the others on that level will need bleeding.

I take it that reply is directed at the OP?

No - to you.
Well in that case maybe it would have been helpful if you had
explained why I should do it that way instead of using the "filling
point" which seems a lot easier .
And none of the radiators are "highest" . They are all on the same
level as I live in a flat .

In article ,
wrote:
On Sun, 02 Nov 2008 12:25:44 +0000 (GMT), "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:

In article ,
wrote:
18 months ago I got my CH boiler replaced and I made sure the guy
connected up the existing drain pipe to the outside down pipe and
also fitted a filling point beside the boiler for the concentrate
.It's just a branch off the pipe from the boiler which is turned
upwards for a few inches and has a compression stop on the end
that you remove when it needs refilled or topped up.

You'll still need to drain down before adding concentrate - and
rather further than if you use the highest rad in the house. In
other words, drain about a bucket full out of a sealed system. Add
the concentrate via the bleed valve on the highest rad. Then refill
and with luck only that rad or it and the others on that level will
need bleeding.

I take it that reply is directed at the OP?

No - to you.

Well in that case maybe it would have been helpful if you had explained
why I should do it that way instead of using the "filling point" which
seems a lot easier .

Have you actually tried it - and are familiar with other methods? It's
just that saying you got 'the guy' to do such and such suggests not. As
does plumbing in the drain point - it's not as though draining the system
is an everyday requirement.

And none of the radiators are "highest" . They are
all on the same level as I live in a flat .

OK. But for most the biggest hassle when adding inhibitor is introducing
air to the system which has to be bled out afterwards. And I can't see
your idea minimising this.

--
*Save a tree, eat a beaver*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Sun, 02 Nov 2008 13:28:00 +0000 (GMT), "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:

In article ,
wrote:
On Sun, 02 Nov 2008 12:25:44 +0000 (GMT), "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:

In article ,
wrote:
18 months ago I got my CH boiler replaced and I made sure the guy
connected up the existing drain pipe to the outside down pipe and
also fitted a filling point beside the boiler for the concentrate
.It's just a branch off the pipe from the boiler which is turned
upwards for a few inches and has a compression stop on the end
that you remove when it needs refilled or topped up.

You'll still need to drain down before adding concentrate - and
rather further than if you use the highest rad in the house. In
other words, drain about a bucket full out of a sealed system. Add
the concentrate via the bleed valve on the highest rad. Then refill
and with luck only that rad or it and the others on that level will
need bleeding.

I take it that reply is directed at the OP?

No - to you.

Well in that case maybe it would have been helpful if you had explained
why I should do it that way instead of using the "filling point" which
seems a lot easier .

Have you actually tried it - and are familiar with other methods? It's
just that saying you got 'the guy' to do such and such suggests not. As
does plumbing in the drain point - it's not as though draining the system
is an everyday requirement.

I don't see what your problem is . It 's a lot simpler to use this
than do it through the radiator . Draining the system may not be an
everyday req't but I might as well make it easier when it does need to
be done .

And none of the radiators are "highest" . They are
all on the same level as I live in a flat .

OK. But for most the biggest hassle when adding inhibitor is introducing
air to the system which has to be bled out afterwards. And I can't see
your idea minimising this.

Bleeding radiators is a real problem is it ? I've never found it to
be so.

Bleeding radiators is a real problem is it ? I've never found it to
be so.



Remembering where you left the key is the hard bit. I now have 5 - due to
having to go and buy one because I couldn't remember where I put it /them.

A couple now live on the radiators which sometimes get a bit of air in them.
One in the car for when I am at my daughter's and feel the top of the
radiators and think "mmm, needs bleeding". I think the others are in my
toolbox.

On Sun, 2 Nov 2008 16:59:23 -0000, "John"
wrote:




Bleeding radiators is a real problem is it ? I've never found it to
be so.



Remembering where you left the key is the hard bit. I now have 5 - due to
having to go and buy one because I couldn't remember where I put it /them.

A couple now live on the radiators which sometimes get a bit of air in them.
One in the car for when I am at my daughter's and feel the top of the
radiators and think "mmm, needs bleeding". I think the others are in my
toolbox.


I know .I have two and I'm sure I left them somewhere safe so I could
find them easily .So safe I now can't find them for love nor money .
I'm going to buy a couple more next time I'm at Screwfix .Hanging them
up next to the boiler seems the sensible option .

On Nov 2, 10:47*am, "John" wrote:
Thanks to all,
I bought Fernox Super concentrate, all I had to do was turn of the
valves on the radiator, remove the bleed screw, insert the adapter,
open wheel valve, pump in the inhibitor, close the wheel valve and
close the vent screw. Re open valves to original positions.

Very easy and quick, the inhibitor comes in a silicon type tube and
you use a silicon gun for pumping it in, the product comes with all
adapters.

Although it may sound tedious, it wasn't bad at all.

Sounds a good product - but not sure how you managed to inject a quality of
anything into a full radiator with the valves off - so there was nowhere for
the displaced liquid to go.

Perhaps there was some air space.

Sounds a good product - but not sure how you managed to inject a
quality of
anything into a full radiator with the valves off - so there was
nowhere for
the displaced liquid to go.

Perhaps there was some air space.

I was surprised, the instructions mentioned nothing about draining,
you do have to replace the bleed cap quickly though, to prevent it
spitting back out.

On Sun, 2 Nov 2008 16:59:23 -0000 someone who may be "John"
wrote this:-

Bleeding radiators is a real problem is it ? I've never found it to
be so.

Remembering where you left the key is the hard bit.

Something like
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/15164/Hand-Tools/Plumbing-Tools/Radiator-Tools/Radiator-Bleed-Valve-Tool
is harder to mislay.

At the moment I can't find the key which has the loop of string
through it so that I don't lose it. However, I do have the "easy to
lose" cheap key without the string. As I have been doing major
surgery to the heating, just completed, this is somewhat annoying.
I'm just cleaning the system out before adding inhibitor, so there
is a fair amount of bleeding to do. When that is done a properly
designed and installed system shouldn't require bleeding.



--
David Hansen, Edinburgh
I will *always* explain revoked encryption keys, unless RIP prevents me
http://www.opsi.gov.uk/acts/acts2000/00023--e.htm#54

In article ,
wrote:
Have you actually tried it - and are familiar with other methods? It's
just that saying you got 'the guy' to do such and such suggests not. As
does plumbing in the drain point - it's not as though draining the
system is an everyday requirement.

I don't see what your problem is . It 's a lot simpler to use this
than do it through the radiator .

Sorry - not convinced. It's dead easy to add concentrate via the bleed
screw. I'd guess you've never done it. Certainly no more difficult than
having to remove a cap.

Draining the system may not be an
everyday req't but I might as well make it easier when it does need to
be done .

I like to look at the colour etc of the water that comes out.

And none of the radiators are "highest" . They are
all on the same level as I live in a flat .

OK. But for most the biggest hassle when adding inhibitor is introducing
air to the system which has to be bled out afterwards. And I can't see
your idea minimising this.

Bleeding radiators is a real problem is it ? I've never found it to
be so.

Perhaps not in your flat. 14, on the other hand, is.

--
*Therapy is expensive, poppin' bubble wrap is cheap! You choose.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

John wrote:

Remembering where you left the key is the hard bit. I now have 5 - due to
having to go and buy one because I couldn't remember where I put it /them.

A couple now live on the radiators which sometimes get a bit of air in them.
One in the car for when I am at my daughter's and feel the top of the
radiators and think "mmm, needs bleeding". I think the others are in my
toolbox.


I'm still using the solid brass one that was left to me by my
grandfather in 1983. I lose it from time to time, but it always turns
up. (unlike combs, socks or biros!)


If you have radiators that often need bleeding you either have an air
leak (Oxygen into the system tends to induce corrosion) or you have
plain corrosion and it's hydrogen building up. You may want to find the
cause.

Andy

wrote:
On Nov 2, 10:47 am, "John" wrote:
Thanks to all,
I bought Fernox Super concentrate, all I had to do was turn of the
valves on the radiator, remove the bleed screw, insert the adapter,
open wheel valve, pump in the inhibitor, close the wheel valve and
close the vent screw. Re open valves to original positions.

Very easy and quick, the inhibitor comes in a silicon type tube and
you use a silicon gun for pumping it in, the product comes with all
adapters.

Although it may sound tedious, it wasn't bad at all.

Sounds a good product - but not sure how you managed to inject a
quality of anything into a full radiator with the valves off - so
there was nowhere for the displaced liquid to go.

Perhaps there was some air space.


I was surprised, the instructions mentioned nothing about draining,
you do have to replace the bleed cap quickly though, to prevent it
spitting back out.

I tried that method & wondered how you were supposed to get any product in
without draining any water out. It did work after a fashion, but the
pressure on the tube was so high, product started leaking back past the
internal plunger. I had to crack open a joint to let some water out in the
end.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk