Hi all

Anyone have experience of both product ranges?

Despite using fernox cleaner a year or so back - left running for a week in
the system IIRC, I recently had to clear a blockage of powdery magnetite
from a central heating 15mm plastic radiator feed.

Does anyone have good experience of FerroQuest by Sentinel (or any other
similar product) which is likely to dissolve and remove this sort of
residue? The blockage removed was more like finely ground coal than a
powdery sludge usually flushed through rads!
8 rads have been removed and been thoroughly blasted through or replaced, 6
have not been disturbed.

Phil

On Mon, 7 Nov 2005 08:42:43 -0000, "TheScullster"
wrote:

Hi all

Anyone have experience of both product ranges?

I've used both and had similarly good results.


Despite using fernox cleaner a year or so back - left running for a week in
the system IIRC, I recently had to clear a blockage of powdery magnetite
from a central heating 15mm plastic radiator feed.

This would suggest that either you have a problem with introduction of
air, or that the system was somewhat clogged before and material moved
around.


Does anyone have good experience of FerroQuest by Sentinel (or any other
similar product) which is likely to dissolve and remove this sort of
residue? The blockage removed was more like finely ground coal than a
powdery sludge usually flushed through rads!
8 rads have been removed and been thoroughly blasted through or replaced, 6
have not been disturbed.

I think that you may have described your problem. Chemical cleaners
can only do so much in terms of loosening or removing crud.

If you just cleaned half the system mechanically, then it's quite
likely that there is a fair amount of material left and some moved
around.

Some while ago I wrote up some notes on what I did to do a thorough
system clean.

In short it involved:

- Taking off radiators one at a time and flushing them outside. (Care
because the sludge stains)

- Using the header tank or filling loop, flush at each radiator valve
while radiator is removed.

- Refit and refill using a system cleaner. Run hot as appropriate.

- Thoroughly flush again and refill adding inhibitor.

This avoids crud being circulated around the system. It has to leave
by the shortest exit. Obviously it works better on a sealed system
because you can flush with mains pressure.





Phil


--

..andy

"Andy Hall" wrote:



Thanks Andy


I've used both and had similarly good results.

Do you know whether these cleaners can actually redissolve this granular
type material?
The only drain on my system (concrete ground floors) is on a radiator return
pipe. So I am reliant on the debris "floating" out of the system.

Phil

On Mon, 7 Nov 2005 12:37:08 -0000, "TheScullster"
wrote:


"Andy Hall" wrote:



Thanks Andy


I've used both and had similarly good results.

Do you know whether these cleaners can actually redissolve this granular
type material?

I am pretty sure that the effect is minimal when there are large
amounts of material. At best, I suspect that it might dislodge some,
and that this is what is happening - i.e. travelling from A to B.

Then the problem is that it can tend to collect and block.

I've only ever used this stuff after a mechanical clean to do a final
cleanup.


The only drain on my system (concrete ground floors) is on a radiator return
pipe. So I am reliant on the debris "floating" out of the system.

Oh I see. You mean that the pipes come out of the floor?

In that case, I think that I would try to come up with a way to force
water through and out at each radiator valve.

If you have an open vent system, this is going to be tricky because
you can't get a lot of pressure.

A couple of ideas spring to mind (assuming you don't want to convert
to a sealed system):


- Rent a pressure flushing machine.

- Temporarily (note temporarily) fit valves to the feed pipe and vent
pipe in the loft. Fit a valve to hook up a hose at a convenient
point on the system (don't use the drain outlet because it will tend
to leak). Disconnect downstairs radiators one at a time and flush out
at each radiator valve. Obviously great care is needed to avoid
staining furnishings and floors.


Once you've done this and got a clean system, make sure that there is
no sucking down the vent pipe. THen use flushing agent for a while,
drain, flush with plain water and refill with inhibitor added.

You probably could continue a little at a time, but it will remain a
perennial PITA.



--

..andy

"Andy Hall" wrote:

Thanks Andy, understand intruction except this next bit:

Once you've done this and got a clean system, make sure that *there is
no sucking down the vent pipe*.

Please can you clarify?

Phil

On Mon, 7 Nov 2005 13:48:25 -0000, "TheScullster"
wrote:


"Andy Hall" wrote:

Thanks Andy, understand intruction except this next bit:

Once you've done this and got a clean system, make sure that *there is
no sucking down the vent pipe*.

Please can you clarify?

Phil


This is where the plumbing layout, and pump position are such that
there is a significant pressure differential between the vent and the
feed pipes. If it is in one direction, there can be pump over -
water trickles from vent into tank. In the other, air is sucked down
the vent. Either one causes repeated oxygenation of the water,
although suckdown tends to also produce a build up of air in
radiators.

It is caused if there is a pressure differential between the two
places where vent and feed pipes connect to the system and is quite
likely to happen if they are on opposite sides of the pump. However,
as little as a 30cm length of pipe between the two can cause problems.

Generally the best way is to make sure that they connect to points no
more than 15cm apart or to an air separator like a Myson Aerjec.



--

..andy

"Andy Hall" wrote:

snip...............
Generally the best way is to make sure that they connect to points no
more than 15cm apart or to an air separator like a Myson Aerjec.

Thanks Andy all is now clear

Phil