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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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Alternative to Fernox AF10 biocide
When I flushed & refilled my CH system last year I had to remove quite a wodge of jelly-like growth from the header tank. Luckily it hadn't descended into the pipe work. Fernox appear to make AF-10 biocide to deal with this growth - I tried to buy some but no-one seemed to stock it and I was advised that most people just add extra inhibitor into the tank to deal with the problem so I did. I checked the header-tank yesterday and the growth has returned so I'm again trying to buy AF-10. The local Plumbase said they could get some in but I just went to collect it and they'd failed to do so, so now they're ordering it direct from Fernox. I was again told that no-one uses it which is why they don't stock it and that it "old hat". What else could I use or do? -- dave @ stejonda UCE Spammer : : Bots please harvest |
#2
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dave @ stejonda wrote:
When I flushed & refilled my CH system last year I had to remove quite a wodge of jelly-like growth from the header tank. Luckily it hadn't descended into the pipe work. Neither brick acid, creosote, nor car body filler are appropriate, so the answer must be caustic soda :-) Owain |
#3
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dave @ stejonda wrote:
When I flushed & refilled my CH system last year I had to remove quite a wodge of jelly-like growth from the header tank. Luckily it hadn't descended into the pipe work. Fernox appear to make AF-10 biocide to deal with this growth - I tried to buy some but no-one seemed to stock it and I was advised that most people just add extra inhibitor into the tank to deal with the problem so I did. I checked the header-tank yesterday and the growth has returned so I'm again trying to buy AF-10. The local Plumbase said they could get some in but I just went to collect it and they'd failed to do so, so now they're ordering it direct from Fernox. I was again told that no-one uses it which is why they don't stock it and that it "old hat". What else could I use or do? According to BES' catalogue FERNOX ALPHI-11. A combined anti-freeze and inhibitor which is suitable for protecting heating, chilled water, and solar systems. It helps prevent oxidic corrosion, bacterial contamination and limescale formation. Suitable for all metals 5 litre £16.43 |
#4
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In message , John Stumbles
writes dave @ stejonda wrote: I checked the header-tank yesterday and the growth has returned so I'm again trying to buy AF-10. I was again told that no-one uses it which is why they don't stock it and that it "old hat". What else could I use or do? According to BES' catalogue FERNOX ALPHI-11. A combined anti-freeze and inhibitor which is suitable for protecting heating, chilled water, and solar systems. It helps prevent oxidic corrosion, bacterial contamination and limescale formation. Suitable for all metals 5 litre £16.43 Thanks for that John I'll add that in if I can't get the AF-10. -- dave @ stejonda UCE Spammer : : Bots please harvest |
#5
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"dave @ stejonda" wrote in message ...
When I flushed & refilled my CH system last year I had to remove quite a wodge of jelly-like growth from the header tank. Luckily it hadn't descended into the pipe work. The slime is a "bio-film". See ehp.niehs.nih.gov/docs/1998/106-12/innovations.html It probably hasn't got into the main circulation pipework because the working temperature is too high for it to survive. It has only proliferated in the stagnant water of the F&E tank, the cold feed and open vent pipes. The organsims responsible secrete a sticky carbohydrate coating which protects them from disinfectants and anti-biotics. Generally, it takes 1,500 times as much disinfectant to kill and disperse a biofilm as a bacterial infestation; I doubt that Fernox or household disinfectants will clear the infestation, some bugs will survive and the bio-film will return in a few months. It may be Pseudomonas aeruginosa , a very persistent slime that can clog heating or cooling systems. I'm an engineer, not a microbiologists, so I'm open to correction by the microbiologists who frequent this forum. Pseudomonas was in the trade mags a few years ago, having been identified in a number of clogged-up or contaminated commercial systems. The organism was getting in through the fill water and, once clogged, the systems were extraordinarily difficult to clear. It is present in small numbers in the environment and (possibly) in the mains water, like legionella. It is harmless in this form, the problems occur when it is given favourable conditions to survive and multiply. The recommendation was to disinfect the water used to fill the systems, to prevent the system becoming contaminated. I don't know the details, but I think it was low-temperature systems (water treatment, chilled water, heat recovery), rather than LTHW heating systems. Pseudomonas aeruginosa can cause infections, especially lung infections in cystic fibrosis sufferers, also urinary tract & contact lense problems. I think I'd look at converting to a sealed system, if your boiler is suitable (i.e., it must have a secondary manual-reset high-limit thermostat), and minimize the lengths of any dead-legs. Check with the boiler manufacturers. Otherwise do some searching for an effective biocide. If you've got plastic pipes, then be aware that polybutylene pipes (e.g., HEP2O) don't like high chlorine levels, chlorine being a common and effective disinfectant ingredient. I think PEX is OK. |
#6
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Aidan wrote:
"dave @ stejonda" wrote in message ... When I flushed & refilled my CH system last year I had to remove quite a wodge of jelly-like growth from the header tank. Luckily it hadn't descended into the pipe work. Pseudomonas aeruginosa can cause infections, especially lung infections in cystic fibrosis sufferers, also urinary tract & contact lense problems. good point. I would be a bit cautious about handling it. Bugs in that quantity could overwhelm anyone's T cells. Chlorine will evaporate in time, but might do something to reduce slime and bacteria population for a bit. I'd stick some copper compund in there, its harmless to your heating system and kills just about everything. CuSO4 should so it. Swimming pools sometimes use Cu and Ag in place of Cl2. Since its not in the hot section, boiling the water for half an hour would also kill it, fwiw. A chemical that breaks down the sticky coating may help a lot as well, by removing most of the defences. NT |
#8
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dave @ stejonda wrote:
I tried to find a source of CuSO4 and failed. Back in t'olden days I can remember getting it in toy shops as refills for chemistry sets. I never achieved anything with a chemistry set other than Secret Writing and a smokey kitchen. Owain |
#9
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dave @ stejonda wrote: Chlorine bleach? But would adding that adversely affect the rest of the system? I tried to find a source of CuSO4 and failed. Ahhh http://www.ukpoolstore.co.uk/ does stock both stabilised chlorine granules & a copper-based 6 Month Algaecide. They're not far from us. Would either of these be Ok? It's not an algae, so an algaecide would be of dubious effectiveness. I'd be very wary of bunging in home-brew chlorine or copper compounds in the hope of killing it. Thery could create corrosion problems, if not flushed out. Pseudomonas was resistant to customized biocides, I wouldn't count on a home-brew toxin. Even if you got the system 100% sterile, there'll be bugs lurking in the environs of the F&E tank, ready to recolonize the water when the chemical's effectiveness have diminished. The slime isn't in the circulation pipes and isn't causing a problem. If you must use chemicals, I'd just disconnect, drain and treat the OV, feed pipe and F&E tank. I still think a sealed system is the best fix for this. If any bugs get established in the expansion vessel, they won't get out. Sorry I don't know more about the appropriate chemicals. |
#10
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PS
I just did a search of Google Groups and found there is a group called "bionet . microbiology . biofilms"! I kid you not. Someone there might have an answer. |
#11
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In message .com,
Aidan writes I just did a search of Google Groups and found there is a group called "bionet . microbiology . biofilms"! I kid you not. Someone there might have an answer. yup, and available from both my main news servers. -- dave @ stejonda UCE Spammer : : Bots please harvest |
#12
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In message . com, Aidan
writes dave @ stejonda wrote: Chlorine bleach? But would adding that adversely affect the rest of the system? I tried to find a source of CuSO4 and failed. Ahhh http://www.ukpoolstore.co.uk/ does stock both stabilised chlorine granules & a copper-based 6 Month Algaecide. They're not far from us. Would either of these be Ok? It's not an algae, so an algaecide would be of dubious effectiveness. Ah. I'd be very wary of bunging in home-brew chlorine or copper compounds in the hope of killing it. Thery could create corrosion problems, if not flushed out. Pseudomonas was resistant to customized biocides, I wouldn't count on a home-brew toxin. Even if you got the system 100% sterile, there'll be bugs lurking in the environs of the F&E tank, ready to recolonize the water when the chemical's effectiveness have diminished. The slime isn't in the circulation pipes and isn't causing a problem. If you must use chemicals, I'd just disconnect, drain and treat the OV, feed pipe and F&E tank. If the Fernox chemicals don't sort it then I'll go this route. I still think a sealed system is the best fix for this. If any bugs get established in the expansion vessel, they won't get out. I'll keep that idea in reserve for now, but thanks. -- dave @ stejonda UCE Spammer : : Bots please harvest |
#13
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In message , John Stumbles
writes dave @ stejonda wrote: When I flushed & refilled my CH system last year I had to remove quite a wodge of jelly-like growth from the header tank. Luckily it hadn't descended into the pipe work. Fernox appear to make AF-10 biocide to deal with this growth - I tried to buy some but no-one seemed to stock it and I was advised that most people just add extra inhibitor into the tank to deal with the problem so I did. I checked the header-tank yesterday and the growth has returned so I'm again trying to buy AF-10. The local Plumbase said they could get some in but I just went to collect it and they'd failed to do so, so now they're ordering it direct from Fernox. I was again told that no-one uses it which is why they don't stock it and that it "old hat". What else could I use or do? According to BES' catalogue FERNOX ALPHI-11. A combined anti-freeze and inhibitor which is suitable for protecting heating, chilled water, and solar systems. It helps prevent oxidic corrosion, bacterial contamination and limescale formation. Suitable for all metals 5 litre £16.43 I suggest you call the Fernox help line for some definitive advice. 017990550811 The reason why contamination of the feed and expansion cistern has occurred should be identified and the cause remedied otherwise contamination will reoccur and the following stages will be a waste of time. The system should be drained and thoroughly flushed out. The header tank thoroughly cleaned manually, ( face mask eye protection rubber gloves) wipe internal surfaces with a rag soaked in strong bleach solution. The tank then should be flushed to remove ALL residual bleach The system should be thoroughly cleaned out, then disinfected with biocide ( ask Fernox for their recommendation), Then again thoroughly flushed, and fully drained Then and ONLY then should sufficient fresh inhibitor/corrosion proofer be added. Yes, time consuming but thoroughness will be rewarded with a trouble free operation for years to come. FWIW Senile chemist |
#14
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Alternative to Fernox AF10 biocide
replying to dave , steady99 wrote:
Try JTM Plumbing. Got some from them the other day -- for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/uk-diy...de-162137-.htm |
#15
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Alternative to Fernox AF10 biocide
On 15/01/2017 18:14, steady99 wrote:
replying to dave , steady99 wrote: Try JTM Plumbing. Got some from them the other day OP posted on March 15, 2005, 10:59 am !! Is dave still alive ???. Does anyone know ?, does anyone even care ?. |
#16
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Alternative to Fernox AF10 biocide
On Sun, 15 Jan 2017 19:06:33 +0000, Andrew wrote:
On 15/01/2017 18:14, steady99 wrote: replying to dave , steady99 wrote: Try JTM Plumbing. Got some from them the other day OP posted on March 15, 2005, 10:59 am !! Is dave still alive ???. They're all dead, Dave. |
#17
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Alternative to Fernox AF10 biocide
replying to dave , Geoff wrote:
Hi Dave I have been an engineer for 30 years. I use it on every underfloor heating system that we instal. I find that if you power flush a system with a header tank it usually gets infected with the sludge usually pseudonomous, which is bad for your lungs and ears so wear a mask etc. Drain the tank with a hose pipe bye siphoning it into a toilet or something else, scrub the whole thing out ball valve and float, underside of the lid. When it's all clean drain it down put AF10 in a smal plant sprayer and spray all of the inside of the tank , spray some down the overflow all around the ball valve etc ,wipe it all over with a cloth being carful not to miss any where. Then wait 10 minutes refill tank wash it all around then drain it again. Then refill but add two half ltr bottles of theAF10 and leave full. I then ad another bottle or two to the system. Do not drain the tank through the system!! I hope this helps, or ring fernox -- for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/uk-diy...de-162137-.htm |
#18
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Alternative to Fernox AF10 biocide
On Saturday, 21 January 2017 21:14:04 UTC, Geoff wrote:
replying to dave , Geoff wrote: Hi Dave I have been an engineer for 30 years. I use it on every underfloor heating system that we instal. I find that if you power flush a system with a header tank it usually gets infected with the sludge usually pseudonomous, which is bad for your lungs and ears so wear a mask etc. Drain the tank with a hose pipe bye siphoning it into a toilet or something else, scrub the whole thing out ball valve and float, underside of the lid. When it's all clean drain it down put AF10 in a smal plant sprayer and spray all of the inside of the tank , spray some down the overflow all around the ball valve etc ,wipe it all over with a cloth being carful not to miss any where. Then wait 10 minutes refill tank wash it all around then drain it again. Then refill but add two half ltr bottles of theAF10 and leave full. I then ad another bottle or two to the system. Do not drain the tank through the system!! I hope this helps, or ring fernox He had this issue 12 years ago, and is most likely long gone from here. This is news:uk.d-i-y, not a website, try a newsgroup portal or client that can claim basic sanity. What's so magic about gallons of af10 anyway? Copper sulphate is vastly cheaper, and any CH system with copper in it is going to end up with copper compounds in the water anyway. NT |
#19
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Alternative to Fernox AF10 biocide
On 21/01/2017 21:14, Geoff wrote:
replying to dave , Geoff wrote: Hi Dave Aren't you replying to Geoff? Is Dave still alive? I have been an engineer for 30 years. I use it on every underfloor heating system that we instal. Use what? This might assist you with posting to a newsgroup, albeit through a website: https://tools.ietf.org/html/rfc1855 - If you are sending a reply to a message or a posting be sure you summarize the original at the top of the message, or include just enough text of the original to give a context. |
#20
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Alternative to Fernox AF10 biocide
replying to Andrew, Quolh wrote:
Yes, dave is still alive and kicking. I know him well Horatio. -- for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/uk-diy...de-162137-.htm |
#21
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Alternative to Fernox AF10 biocide
As a boy we used vast quantities of 40% formaldehyde around the market garden. Very few organisms could survive that.
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#22
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Alternative to Fernox AF10 biocide
replying to Aidan, Paul wrote:
I had this problem 3 years ago. I contacted Fernox who recommended AF10 but said there are two types of bio infection you can get in a heating system. They can test your water - at a cost! But suggested I try AF 10 first. I managed to get some off eBay at the time and after flushing my system and scrubbing the header tank, I added fresh inhibitor and AF10, several weeks later there were signs of return, so I immediately bought another biocide -this time managed to buy it locally at an Indy plumbers merchant, sorry cant recall the name of it, added this to the header tank and it all went away! Moral,of the tale - buy twice as much as it says on the bottle! Three years on, it has not returned. Where did it come from? Well, the roof space is an eco system of its own and I guess well never be sure, but make certain your header tank is well insulated and - just as important- sealed as much as it can be so that nothing can get in it and / or contaminate it such as insects, my theory being you can only get a €˜bio infestation from an organic origin. -- for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/uk-diy...de-162137-.htm |
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