Hello,

How do you add Sentinel X100 concentrate via a radiator on a sealed
system?

Do you have to partially drain the radiator?

wrote in message
...
Hello,

How do you add Sentinel X100 concentrate via a radiator on a sealed
system?

Do you have to partially drain the radiator?

What I would do is to turn off both valves then loosen one of the
connections at the radiator side of the valve to drain out some of the
(carpet staining) water - open the bleed valve to allow the water to run
out - then re-tighten and inject the Sentinel into the bleed valve. However
my radiators have a large bung in the top which has the bleed valve in it -
I have a square key to remove the bung- then re-fit using PTFE tape.

If I ever fit a system of my dreams it will have a drain point to the
outside of the house and a dosing point (whatever one is)

On 1 Nov, 13:47, "John" wrote:
wrote in message

... Hello,

How do you add Sentinel X100 concentrate via a radiator on a sealed
system?

Do you have to partially drain the radiator?

What I would do is to turn off both valves then loosen one of the
connections at the radiator side of the valve to drain out some of the
(carpet staining) water *- open the bleed valve to allow the water to run
out *- then re-tighten and inject the Sentinel into the bleed valve. However
my radiators have a large bung in the top which has the bleed valve in it -
I have a square key to remove the bung- then re-fit using PTFE tape.

If I ever fit a system of my dreams it will have a drain point to the
outside of the house and a dosing point (whatever one is)

Sounds too complicated for me.

My system is new, it has a drain point in the passage and kitchen, you
connect a hose pipe and away you go, the drain points are very close
to doors leading to outside.

In case your wondering why the system does not have inhibitor, it
actually did until my son opened the drain point and drained the
system onto the carpet!

wrote:
On 1 Nov, 13:47, "John" wrote:
wrote in message

...
Hello,

How do you add Sentinel X100 concentrate via a radiator on a sealed
system?

Do you have to partially drain the radiator?

What I would do is to turn off both valves then loosen one of the
connections at the radiator side of the valve to drain out some of
the (carpet staining) water - open the bleed valve to allow the
water to run
out - then re-tighten and inject the Sentinel into the bleed valve.
However
my radiators have a large bung in the top which has the bleed valve
in it -
I have a square key to remove the bung- then re-fit using PTFE tape.

If I ever fit a system of my dreams it will have a drain point to the
outside of the house and a dosing point (whatever one is)

Sounds too complicated for me.

My system is new, it has a drain point in the passage and kitchen, you
connect a hose pipe and away you go, the drain points are very close
to doors leading to outside.

In case your wondering why the system does not have inhibitor, it
actually did until my son opened the drain point and drained the
system onto the carpet!

It really isn't that hard - do you have a towel rail in the bathroom?

If so, these are usually the easiest, especially if it is one with a bleed
valve at the top, like this one here
The rail
http://www.bathroomheaven.com/upload...e_standard.jpg
The bleed valve
http://www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/to...leed_screw.jpg

If you turn off the radiator on both valves (Count the turns on the valve
that you don't usually turn off (the lock shield) so when you turn it back
on, you can put it back how it was.

Now the valve will resemble something like this
http://www.tradeplumbing.co.uk/asset...-Valve-chr.jpg

if you loosen it after the valve (so the part closest to the radiator) water
should start to come out, so be prepared to catch it in something, and put
an old towel down.

It will only let a little out (as air cant get in yet) so when it stops, you
need to undo the bleed screw at the top to let more out. (You don't need to
take the bleed screw all the way out, just a half turn should do)

You need to let out a little more than thee amount of X100 you wish to add.

Once you have done this, you can, if it is the same as the one in the
picture, undo the whole cap on the top, to reveal a large hole, ready for
you to pour the X100 in with a steady hand, or a funnel.

Once this is done, screw the plug back on, and re-tighten the bleed screw.
Now make sure the connection you undid at the bottom is fully tightened, and
then turn on one of the valves.

Inspect for any leaks at the bottom!

Now unscrew the small bleed screw at the top a little, and let all the air
out (until water starts to squire out) then tighten the bleed screw.

Now put the lock shield valve back to it's original position, and
congratulate yourself of a job well done :-)

Toby...

On Sat, 1 Nov 2008 13:47:09 -0000, "John"
wrote:


wrote in message
...
Hello,

How do you add Sentinel X100 concentrate via a radiator on a sealed
system?

Do you have to partially drain the radiator?

What I would do is to turn off both valves then loosen one of the
connections at the radiator side of the valve to drain out some of the
(carpet staining) water - open the bleed valve to allow the water to run
out - then re-tighten and inject the Sentinel into the bleed valve. However
my radiators have a large bung in the top which has the bleed valve in it -
I have a square key to remove the bung- then re-fit using PTFE tape.

If I ever fit a system of my dreams it will have a drain point to the
outside of the house and a dosing point (whatever one is)

18 months ago I got my CH boiler replaced and I made sure the guy
connected up the existing drain pipe to the outside down pipe and also
fitted a filling point beside the boiler for the concentrate .It's
just a branch off the pipe from the boiler which is turned upwards for
a few inches and has a compression stop on the end that you remove
when it needs refilled or topped up.

In article ,
wrote:
If I ever fit a system of my dreams it will have a drain point to the
outside of the house and a dosing point (whatever one is)

18 months ago I got my CH boiler replaced and I made sure the guy
connected up the existing drain pipe to the outside down pipe and also
fitted a filling point beside the boiler for the concentrate .It's
just a branch off the pipe from the boiler which is turned upwards for
a few inches and has a compression stop on the end that you remove
when it needs refilled or topped up.

You'll still need to drain down before adding concentrate - and rather
further than if you use the highest rad in the house.
In other words, drain about a bucket full out of a sealed system. Add the
concentrate via the bleed valve on the highest rad. Then refill and with
luck only that rad or it and the others on that level will need bleeding.

--
*Why is it called tourist season if we can't shoot at them?

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Sat, 01 Nov 2008 14:43:35 +0000 (GMT), "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:

In article ,
wrote:
If I ever fit a system of my dreams it will have a drain point to the
outside of the house and a dosing point (whatever one is)

18 months ago I got my CH boiler replaced and I made sure the guy
connected up the existing drain pipe to the outside down pipe and also
fitted a filling point beside the boiler for the concentrate .It's
just a branch off the pipe from the boiler which is turned upwards for
a few inches and has a compression stop on the end that you remove
when it needs refilled or topped up.

You'll still need to drain down before adding concentrate - and rather
further than if you use the highest rad in the house.
In other words, drain about a bucket full out of a sealed system. Add the
concentrate via the bleed valve on the highest rad. Then refill and with
luck only that rad or it and the others on that level will need bleeding.

I take it that reply is directed at the OP?

On 1 Nov, 16:05, wrote:
On Sat, 01 Nov 2008 14:43:35 +0000 (GMT), "Dave Plowman (News)"



wrote:
In article ,
* wrote:
If I ever fit a system of my dreams it will have a drain point to the
outside of the house and a dosing point (whatever one is)

18 months ago I got my CH boiler replaced and I made sure the guy
connected up the existing drain pipe to the outside down pipe and also
fitted a filling point beside the boiler for the concentrate *.It's
just a branch off the pipe from the boiler which is turned upwards for
a few inches and has a compression stop on the end that you remove
when it needs refilled or topped up.

You'll still need to drain down before adding concentrate - and rather
further than if you use the highest rad in the house.
In other words, drain about a bucket full out of a sealed system. Add the
concentrate via the bleed valve on the highest rad. Then refill and with
luck only that rad or it and the others on that level will need bleeding..

I take it that reply is directed at the OP?

Thanks to all,
I bought Fernox Super concentrate, all I had to do was turn of the
valves on the radiator, remove the bleed screw, insert the adapter,
open wheel valve, pump in the inhibitor, close the wheel valve and
close the vent screw. Re open valves to original positions.

Very easy and quick, the inhibitor comes in a silicon type tube and
you use a silicon gun for pumping it in, the product comes with all
adapters.





Although it may sound tedious, it wasn't bad at all.

In article ,
wrote:
18 months ago I got my CH boiler replaced and I made sure the guy
connected up the existing drain pipe to the outside down pipe and also
fitted a filling point beside the boiler for the concentrate .It's
just a branch off the pipe from the boiler which is turned upwards for
a few inches and has a compression stop on the end that you remove
when it needs refilled or topped up.

You'll still need to drain down before adding concentrate - and rather
further than if you use the highest rad in the house. In other words,
drain about a bucket full out of a sealed system. Add the concentrate
via the bleed valve on the highest rad. Then refill and with luck only
that rad or it and the others on that level will need bleeding.

I take it that reply is directed at the OP?

No - to you.

--
*The average person falls asleep in seven minutes *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article ,
"John" writes:

wrote in message
...
Hello,

How do you add Sentinel X100 concentrate via a radiator on a sealed
system?

Do you have to partially drain the radiator?

What I would do is to turn off both valves then loosen one of the
connections at the radiator side of the valve to drain out some of the
(carpet staining) water - open the bleed valve to allow the water to run
out - then re-tighten and inject the Sentinel into the bleed valve. However
my radiators have a large bung in the top which has the bleed valve in it -
I have a square key to remove the bung- then re-fit using PTFE tape.

If I ever fit a system of my dreams it will have a drain point to the
outside of the house and a dosing point (whatever one is)

I did something similar, except I drained from the drain point
rather than unscrewing a radiator connector. One thing I over-
estimated was the amount of water in a modern radiator. I
drained it down a bit thinking I could pour in a litre through
the removed blanking plug, and got less than half that in
before the radiator was filled. Modern radiators have a rather
small water volume (which makes good sense).

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

wrote:
Hello,

How do you add Sentinel X100 concentrate via a radiator on a sealed
system?

Do you have to partially drain the radiator?

Yes. Close both valves to isolate the rad. Wickes do a small rubber pump
kit
http://www.wickes.co.uk/MaintenanceI...or/invt/159829

Remove the bleed valve & bung using one of these
http://www.wickes.co.uk/Plumbing-Too...ey/invt/500042.

The gizmo will suck out a suitable amount of water & pump back the
inhibitor.

Easy peasy lemon squeezy.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk