On my rather old tube of 'regular' Araldite it says it is ok for metal.

If this is so then why would I ever use one of those 2-part adhesives
sold specially for metal? I mean the sort of thing that is usually
coloured grey and can often be bought in car accessory shops?

I need to glue an aluminium ring (about 1.5 inches diameter and about
4mm thick) to a plastic base. There will be some light to moderate
stressing of this arrangement when it is in use.

I figured the Araldite was just fine for the plastic but what about the
metal?

On Sun, 01 Apr 2007 18:35:22 +0100, Alex Coleman
wrote:

On my rather old tube of 'regular' Araldite it says it is ok for metal.


It is OK for metal.

If this is so then why would I ever use one of those 2-part adhesives
sold specially for metal? I mean the sort of thing that is usually
coloured grey and can often be bought in car accessory shops?

Sundry other reasons. If it's what I'm thinking about they contain a
lot of inert filler, it helps filling holes and gaps. The grey colour
is to convince the proles they can fix holes in grey metal with it.

I need to glue an aluminium ring (about 1.5 inches diameter and about
4mm thick) to a plastic base. There will be some light to moderate
stressing of this arrangement when it is in use.

I figured the Araldite was just fine for the plastic but what about the
metal?

It's fine on aluminium per-se.

Less so on plastic, and it depends which plastic.

Set araldite is brittle, if the whole assembly will deflect under load
the joint may break up.

You may need to look further.

DG

"Derek Geldard" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 01 Apr 2007 18:35:22 +0100, Alex Coleman
wrote:

On my rather old tube of 'regular' Araldite it says it is ok for metal.


It is OK for metal.

If this is so then why would I ever use one of those 2-part adhesives
sold specially for metal? I mean the sort of thing that is usually
coloured grey and can often be bought in car accessory shops?

Sundry other reasons. If it's what I'm thinking about they contain a
lot of inert filler, it helps filling holes and gaps. The grey colour
is to convince the proles they can fix holes in grey metal with it.

I need to glue an aluminium ring (about 1.5 inches diameter and about
4mm thick) to a plastic base. There will be some light to moderate
stressing of this arrangement when it is in use.

I figured the Araldite was just fine for the plastic but what about the
metal?

It's fine on aluminium per-se.

Less so on plastic, and it depends which plastic.

Set araldite is brittle, if the whole assembly will deflect under load
the joint may break up.

I use a little less hardener if I think a bit of 'give' is needed.

On 01 Apr 2007, OG wrote:


"Derek Geldard" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 01 Apr 2007 18:35:22 +0100, Alex Coleman
wrote:

On my rather old tube of 'regular' Araldite it says it is ok for
metal.


It is OK for metal.

If this is so then why would I ever use one of those 2-part
adhesives sold specially for metal? I mean the sort of thing that
is usually coloured grey and can often be bought in car accessory
shops?

Sundry other reasons. If it's what I'm thinking about they contain
a lot of inert filler, it helps filling holes and gaps. The grey
colour is to convince the proles they can fix holes in grey metal
with it.

I need to glue an aluminium ring (about 1.5 inches diameter and
about 4mm thick) to a plastic base. There will be some light to
moderate stressing of this arrangement when it is in use.

I figured the Araldite was just fine for the plastic but what
about the metal?

It's fine on aluminium per-se.

Less so on plastic, and it depends which plastic.

Set araldite is brittle, if the whole assembly will deflect under
load the joint may break up.

I use a little less hardener if I think a bit of 'give' is needed.



Doesn't using less hardener with Araldite slow down the rate of
curing rather than give an incomplete (and therefore more flexible)
cure?

On Sun, 01 Apr 2007 20:42:23 +0100, Alex Coleman wrote:

On 01 Apr 2007, OG wrote:


"Derek Geldard" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 01 Apr 2007 18:35:22 +0100, Alex Coleman
wrote:

On my rather old tube of 'regular' Araldite it says it is ok for
metal.


It is OK for metal.

If this is so then why would I ever use one of those 2-part
adhesives sold specially for metal? I mean the sort of thing that
is usually coloured grey and can often be bought in car accessory
shops?

Sundry other reasons. If it's what I'm thinking about they contain
a lot of inert filler, it helps filling holes and gaps. The grey
colour is to convince the proles they can fix holes in grey metal
with it.

I need to glue an aluminium ring (about 1.5 inches diameter and
about 4mm thick) to a plastic base. There will be some light to
moderate stressing of this arrangement when it is in use.

I figured the Araldite was just fine for the plastic but what
about the metal?

It's fine on aluminium per-se.

Less so on plastic, and it depends which plastic.

Set araldite is brittle, if the whole assembly will deflect under
load the joint may break up.

I use a little less hardener if I think a bit of 'give' is needed.



Doesn't using less hardener with Araldite slow down the rate of
curing rather than give an incomplete (and therefore more flexible)
cure?

Yes.

In message , Alex Coleman
writes
On my rather old tube of 'regular' Araldite it says it is ok for metal.

If this is so then why would I ever use one of those 2-part adhesives
sold specially for metal? I mean the sort of thing that is usually
coloured grey and can often be bought in car accessory shops?

I need to glue an aluminium ring (about 1.5 inches diameter and about
4mm thick) to a plastic base. There will be some light to moderate
stressing of this arrangement when it is in use.

I figured the Araldite was just fine for the plastic but what about the
metal?


Don't forget to roughen up the surface and apply the araldite before it
gets a chance to start oxidizing to any extent

Suitable? Probably, suck it and see

--
geoff

"raden" wrote in message
news
In message , Alex Coleman
writes
On my rather old tube of 'regular' Araldite it says it is ok for metal.

If this is so then why would I ever use one of those 2-part adhesives
sold specially for metal? I mean the sort of thing that is usually
coloured grey and can often be bought in car accessory shops?

I need to glue an aluminium ring (about 1.5 inches diameter and about
4mm thick) to a plastic base. There will be some light to moderate
stressing of this arrangement when it is in use.

I figured the Araldite was just fine for the plastic but what about the
metal?


Don't forget to roughen up the surface and apply the araldite before it
gets a chance to start oxidizing to any extent

Suitable? Probably, suck it and see

--
geoff
I would do the same to the plastic too. Many types of epoxy resin (Araldite
is just a trade name) do not adhere at all well to many plastics. Roughen
the surface to help it key.

Alex Coleman wrote:
On my rather old tube of 'regular' Araldite it says it is ok for
metal.

If this is so then why would I ever use one of those 2-part adhesives
sold specially for metal? I mean the sort of thing that is usually
coloured grey and can often be bought in car accessory shops?

When you say 'tube' of Araldite - do you mean 'tubes' ? AFAIK all Araldite
is 2-part.

I need to glue an aluminium ring (about 1.5 inches diameter and about
4mm thick) to a plastic base. There will be some light to moderate
stressing of this arrangement when it is in use.

I figured the Araldite was just fine for the plastic but what about
the metal?

The plastic might cause more trouble than the aluminium.


--
Dave
The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
01634 717930
07850 597257

On Sun, 01 Apr 2007 18:35:22 +0100, Alex Coleman wrote:

|!On my rather old tube of 'regular' Araldite it says it is ok for metal.
|!
|!If this is so then why would I ever use one of those 2-part adhesives
|!sold specially for metal? I mean the sort of thing that is usually
|!coloured grey and can often be bought in car accessory shops?
|!
|!I need to glue an aluminium ring (about 1.5 inches diameter and about
|!4mm thick) to a plastic base. There will be some light to moderate
|!stressing of this arrangement when it is in use.
|!
|!I figured the Araldite was just fine for the plastic but what about the
|!metal?

Yes! But!
Everything needs to be *real* flat, *real* smooth, and *real* clean, and
not have release agent on it, also both bits need to be rigid. We used to
do it for aircraft components. So if you can do the first two bits within a
few thou (you can measure to 1/10mm can't you), degrease the aluminium and
roughen up the plastic with fine emery and degrease, to get rid any release
agent, get some *new* araldite, then it *may* work, otherwise give up the
idea of araldite.
--
Dave Fawthrop sf hyphenologist.co.uk 165 *Free* SF ebooks.
165 Sci Fi books on CDROM, from Project Gutenberg
http://www.gutenberg.org/wiki/Main_Page Completely Free to any
address in the UK. Contact me on the *above* email address.

Alex Coleman wrote in news:Xns9905BD1A2FF9471F3M4@
127.0.0.1:

On my rather old tube of 'regular' Araldite it says it is ok for metal.

If this is so then why would I ever use one of those 2-part adhesives
sold specially for metal? I mean the sort of thing that is usually
coloured grey and can often be bought in car accessory shops?

I need to glue an aluminium ring (about 1.5 inches diameter and about
4mm thick) to a plastic base. There will be some light to moderate
stressing of this arrangement when it is in use.

I figured the Araldite was just fine for the plastic but what about the
metal?

Something like Evostick impact adhesive may be more suitable, it remains
flexible.

--
Tunku

"caution : traces of irony and other metallic objects may be present in
the above post"

"Alex Coleman" wrote in message
...
On my rather old tube of 'regular' Araldite it says it is ok for metal.

If this is so then why would I ever use one of those 2-part adhesives
sold specially for metal? I mean the sort of thing that is usually
coloured grey and can often be bought in car accessory shops?

I need to glue an aluminium ring (about 1.5 inches diameter and about
4mm thick) to a plastic base. There will be some light to moderate
stressing of this arrangement when it is in use.

Araldite is not recommended for use where it may be subjected to a peel
stress.

I figured the Araldite was just fine for the plastic but what about the
metal?

Aluminium to aluminium is the base against which they compare all other
bonds in their data sheets.

Colin Bignell

Alex Coleman wrote:
On my rather old tube of 'regular' Araldite it says it is ok for metal.

If this is so then why would I ever use one of those 2-part adhesives
sold specially for metal? I mean the sort of thing that is usually
coloured grey and can often be bought in car accessory shops?

cos they are better

I need to glue an aluminium ring (about 1.5 inches diameter and about
4mm thick) to a plastic base. There will be some light to moderate
stressing of this arrangement when it is in use.

I figured the Araldite was just fine for the plastic but what about the
metal?

Actaully, is not brimliant for wither. get some 'liquid metal'. That
will work best.

Alex Coleman wrote:
On 01 Apr 2007, OG wrote:

"Derek Geldard" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 01 Apr 2007 18:35:22 +0100, Alex Coleman
wrote:

On my rather old tube of 'regular' Araldite it says it is ok for
metal.

It is OK for metal.

If this is so then why would I ever use one of those 2-part
adhesives sold specially for metal? I mean the sort of thing that
is usually coloured grey and can often be bought in car accessory
shops?
Sundry other reasons. If it's what I'm thinking about they contain
a lot of inert filler, it helps filling holes and gaps. The grey
colour is to convince the proles they can fix holes in grey metal
with it.

I need to glue an aluminium ring (about 1.5 inches diameter and
about 4mm thick) to a plastic base. There will be some light to
moderate stressing of this arrangement when it is in use.

I figured the Araldite was just fine for the plastic but what
about the metal?
It's fine on aluminium per-se.

Less so on plastic, and it depends which plastic.

Set araldite is brittle, if the whole assembly will deflect under
load the joint may break up.
I use a little less hardener if I think a bit of 'give' is needed.



Doesn't using less hardener with Araldite slow down the rate of
curing rather than give an incomplete (and therefore more flexible)
cure?

Actually it isn't hardener. Its two parts of the glue which have to be
mixed thoroughly and in equal proportions. All that less of one part
does is leave pockets of the other unset.

Duncan Wood wrote:
On Sun, 01 Apr 2007 20:42:23 +0100, Alex Coleman wrote:

On 01 Apr 2007, OG wrote:


"Derek Geldard" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 01 Apr 2007 18:35:22 +0100, Alex Coleman
wrote:

On my rather old tube of 'regular' Araldite it says it is ok for
metal.


It is OK for metal.

If this is so then why would I ever use one of those 2-part
adhesives sold specially for metal? I mean the sort of thing that
is usually coloured grey and can often be bought in car accessory
shops?

Sundry other reasons. If it's what I'm thinking about they contain
a lot of inert filler, it helps filling holes and gaps. The grey
colour is to convince the proles they can fix holes in grey metal
with it.

I need to glue an aluminium ring (about 1.5 inches diameter and
about 4mm thick) to a plastic base. There will be some light to
moderate stressing of this arrangement when it is in use.

I figured the Araldite was just fine for the plastic but what
about the metal?

It's fine on aluminium per-se.

Less so on plastic, and it depends which plastic.

Set araldite is brittle, if the whole assembly will deflect under
load the joint may break up.

I use a little less hardener if I think a bit of 'give' is needed.



Doesn't using less hardener with Araldite slow down the rate of
curing rather than give an incomplete (and therefore more flexible)
cure?

Yes.
No.

I haven't been following this discussion,
but re the title, wasn't Araldite originally developed
for sticking together small jet planes?

IIRC, it was developed at Duxford, south of Cambridge (UK),
which I think was an air base at the time,
perhaps in the 1950s?


--
Timothy Murphy
e-mail (80k only): tim /at/ birdsnest.maths.tcd.ie
tel: +353-86-2336090, +353-1-2842366
s-mail: School of Mathematics, Trinity College, Dublin 2, Ireland

Timothy Murphy wrote:
I haven't been following this discussion,
but re the title, wasn't Araldite originally developed
for sticking together small jet planes?

IIRC, it was developed at Duxford, south of Cambridge (UK),
which I think was an air base at the time,
perhaps in the 1950s?


Used with high temperature bonding, epoxies make very fine aluminium
glues indeed. In fact there are thousands of different formulations
available for specific applications.

Araldite is just one, and its not really optimized for anything apart
from a decent shelf life.

Epoxies are substantially inferior to polyesters in a hobby/DIY
situation, their one advantage being that they are less irritating and
stiffer than polyesters.. However the addition of metal powder and other
fillers to polyester resins to make a typical 'liquid metal' formulation
solves the viscosity problem and the fact that the reaction is catalytic
means that the accurate mixing and consistent stirring that is so
importance with epoxies is no longer an issue.

I use both a lot, and really epoxy is surpsringly tricky to use..it MUST
be mixed really throughly, or it never sets, its not that strong, and a
hint of grease or oxide anywhere and it simply tears off.

The metal loaded polyesters (chemical metal) seem to degrease more
readily in themselves, always set with more or less the right amount of
hardener even when poorly mixed, and seem to adhere a bit better to
olefin plastics,

Whilst epoxies, correctly used under industrial control are undoubtedly
superior, used under indifferent circumstances the polyesters are far
more reliable.

On 1 Apr, 18:35, Alex Coleman wrote:
On my rather old tube of 'regular' Araldite it says it is ok for metal.

It's no worse than on anything else.

Araldite is nearly always a poor choice (Araldite Rapid even more so),
except for its easy availability and the convenient tubes. Most uk.d-i-
y readers would do well to spring the ten-fifteen quid for a West
Systems small pack and some suitable filler (cellulose fluff isn't a
bad start, or else microballoons) (all from Axminster). A real low-
viscosity high-quality epoxy is streets ahead of ready-filled tube
epoxies. You can fill it to suit, as necessary.

JB Weld is a steel-powder filled tube epoxy. Much the same applies as
for Araldite vs. West System.

Compared to Araldite though, JB Weld is rather more useful for "heavy"
uses. The numerical strength might not look much better on paper, but
things like creep under load are improved by the filler.

On 02 Apr 2007, The Natural Philosopher wrote:

Timothy Murphy wrote:
I haven't been following this discussion,
but re the title, wasn't Araldite originally developed
for sticking together small jet planes?

IIRC, it was developed at Duxford, south of Cambridge (UK),
which I think was an air base at the time,
perhaps in the 1950s?


Used with high temperature bonding, epoxies make very fine
aluminium glues indeed. In fact there are thousands of different
formulations available for specific applications.

Araldite is just one, and its not really optimized for anything
apart from a decent shelf life.

Epoxies are substantially inferior to polyesters in a hobby/DIY
situation, their one advantage being that they are less irritating
and stiffer than polyesters.. However the addition of metal powder
and other fillers to polyester resins to make a typical 'liquid
metal' formulation solves the viscosity problem and the fact that
the reaction is catalytic means that the accurate mixing and
consistent stirring that is so importance with epoxies is no longer
an issue.

I use both a lot, and really epoxy is surpsringly tricky to use..it
MUST be mixed really throughly, or it never sets, its not that
strong, and a hint of grease or oxide anywhere and it simply tears
off.

The metal loaded polyesters (chemical metal) seem to degrease more
readily in themselves, always set with more or less the right
amount of hardener even when poorly mixed, and seem to adhere a bit
better to olefin plastics,

Whilst epoxies, correctly used under industrial control are
undoubtedly superior, used under indifferent circumstances the
polyesters are far more reliable.


Very interesting post. Useful too. Thank you.

Dave Fawthrop wrote:
On Sun, 01 Apr 2007 18:35:22 +0100, Alex Coleman wrote:

|!On my rather old tube of 'regular' Araldite it says it is ok for metal.
|!
|!If this is so then why would I ever use one of those 2-part adhesives
|!sold specially for metal? I mean the sort of thing that is usually
|!coloured grey and can often be bought in car accessory shops?
|!
|!I need to glue an aluminium ring (about 1.5 inches diameter and about
|!4mm thick) to a plastic base. There will be some light to moderate
|!stressing of this arrangement when it is in use.
|!
|!I figured the Araldite was just fine for the plastic but what about the
|!metal?

Yes! But!
Everything needs to be *real* flat, *real* smooth, and *real* clean, and
not have release agent on it, also both bits need to be rigid. We used to
do it for aircraft components. So if you can do the first two bits within a
few thou (you can measure to 1/10mm can't you), degrease the aluminium and
roughen up the plastic with fine emery and degrease, to get rid any release
agent, get some *new* araldite, then it *may* work, otherwise give up the
idea of araldite.

But wouldn't the aluminium be anodised and epoxy primered first? That's
the way that I remember in the aerospace industry. The paint had a much
higher bond to the metal than the 'Hysol'* had to the paint and the
bond was very impressive.


*Hysol is a variant of Araldite and much better all round. It could be
used as an adhesive when mixed in the two parts, or used as a liquid
shim, when various fillers were added, that removed the need for
accurate flatness / surface conformity.

Dave

In message , Coyoteboy
writes
The Natural Philosopher proclaimed to uk.rec.cars.maintenance ...
Doesn't using less hardener with Araldite slow down the rate of
curing rather than give an incomplete (and therefore more flexible)
cure?


Wouldn't Isopon P38 (whichever the flexible one is) body filler not be a
better solution in this case ?

--
geoff

Andy Dingley wrote:
On 1 Apr, 18:35, Alex Coleman wrote:
On my rather old tube of 'regular' Araldite it says it is ok for
metal.

It's no worse than on anything else.

Araldite is nearly always a poor choice (Araldite Rapid even more so),
except for its easy availability and the convenient tubes. Most
uk.d-i- y readers would do well to spring the ten-fifteen quid for a
West Systems small pack and some suitable filler (cellulose fluff
isn't a bad start, or else microballoons) (all from Axminster). A
real low- viscosity high-quality epoxy is streets ahead of
ready-filled tube epoxies. You can fill it to suit, as necessary.

JB Weld is a steel-powder filled tube epoxy. Much the same applies as
for Araldite vs. West System.

Compared to Araldite though, JB Weld is rather more useful for "heavy"
uses. The numerical strength might not look much better on paper, but
things like creep under load are improved by the filler.

I've got an aluminium bike frame with a small hole worn in it, when it was
ridden with a tyre rubbing the frame.. (damn kids).

The wear is an elliptical cone about 10x6mm with a 2mm hole in the middle,
on a rear stay of about 18mm diameter. Any guesses as to whether JBWeld
would patch it up firmly enough for mucking about use (no World Cup
Downhills planned...) or should I just scrap the frame?

PC Paul wrote:
Andy Dingley wrote:
On 1 Apr, 18:35, Alex Coleman wrote:
On my rather old tube of 'regular' Araldite it says it is ok for
metal.
It's no worse than on anything else.

Araldite is nearly always a poor choice (Araldite Rapid even more so),
except for its easy availability and the convenient tubes. Most
uk.d-i- y readers would do well to spring the ten-fifteen quid for a
West Systems small pack and some suitable filler (cellulose fluff
isn't a bad start, or else microballoons) (all from Axminster). A
real low- viscosity high-quality epoxy is streets ahead of
ready-filled tube epoxies. You can fill it to suit, as necessary.

JB Weld is a steel-powder filled tube epoxy. Much the same applies as
for Araldite vs. West System.

Compared to Araldite though, JB Weld is rather more useful for "heavy"
uses. The numerical strength might not look much better on paper, but
things like creep under load are improved by the filler.

I've got an aluminium bike frame with a small hole worn in it, when it was
ridden with a tyre rubbing the frame.. (damn kids).

The wear is an elliptical cone about 10x6mm with a 2mm hole in the middle,
on a rear stay of about 18mm diameter. Any guesses as to whether JBWeld
would patch it up firmly enough for mucking about use (no World Cup
Downhills planned...) or should I just scrap the frame?



Jb weld will patch it,but for strength I'd wrap it with glass fibre
cloth doused in polyester resin..

raden wrote:
In message , Coyoteboy
writes
The Natural Philosopher proclaimed to uk.rec.cars.maintenance ...
Doesn't using less hardener with Araldite slow down the rate of
curing rather than give an incomplete (and therefore more flexible)
cure?


Wouldn't Isopon P38 (whichever the flexible one is) body filler not be a
better solution in this case ?


That is a polyster loaded with filler.
Greta stif.

Known around here as 'hard muckite' to distinguish from 'soft muckite'
(mastica and silicones) ;-)

The Natural Philosopher wrote:

raden wrote:
In message , Coyoteboy
writes
The Natural Philosopher proclaimed to uk.rec.cars.maintenance ...
Doesn't using less hardener with Araldite slow down the rate of
curing rather than give an incomplete (and therefore more flexible)
cure?


Wouldn't Isopon P38 (whichever the flexible one is) body filler not be a
better solution in this case ?


That is a polyster loaded with filler.
Greta stif.

Known around here as 'hard muckite' to distinguish from 'soft muckite'
(mastica and silicones) ;-)

My father used to refer to die-cast ali (as in toys, cheap fittings etc)
as "muckite" - mostly because it was as brittle as crap and usually broke.

Tim

Tim wrote:
The Natural Philosopher wrote:

raden wrote:
In message , Coyoteboy
writes
The Natural Philosopher proclaimed to uk.rec.cars.maintenance ...
Doesn't using less hardener with Araldite slow down the rate of
curing rather than give an incomplete (and therefore more flexible)
cure?

Wouldn't Isopon P38 (whichever the flexible one is) body filler not be a
better solution in this case ?

That is a polyster loaded with filler.
Greta stif.

Known around here as 'hard muckite' to distinguish from 'soft muckite'
(mastica and silicones) ;-)

My father used to refer to die-cast ali (as in toys, cheap fittings etc)
as "muckite" - mostly because it was as brittle as crap and usually broke.

Tim
Ah.. google 'pot metal' for full info..zinc castings and MEZAC..

Alex Coleman wrote
On my rather old tube of 'regular' Araldite it says it is ok for metal.

Where do you keep it?
I mislaid my Araldite yonks ago and I finally gave up searching for the
damn stuff today, and bought another lot.
Now that I have two lots of it, how long will it be before the original
lot turns up?
--
Roger Hunt

On Wed, 4 Apr 2007 15:35:12 +0100, Roger Hunt
wrote:

Alex Coleman wrote
On my rather old tube of 'regular' Araldite it says it is ok for metal.

Where do you keep it?
I mislaid my Araldite yonks ago and I finally gave up searching for the
damn stuff today, and bought another lot.
Now that I have two lots of it, how long will it be before the original
lot turns up?

When you tread on the old one and burst it over the floor silly!

In message , Tim
writes
The Natural Philosopher wrote:

raden wrote:
In message , Coyoteboy
writes
The Natural Philosopher proclaimed to uk.rec.cars.maintenance ...
Doesn't using less hardener with Araldite slow down the rate of
curing rather than give an incomplete (and therefore more flexible)
cure?


Wouldn't Isopon P38 (whichever the flexible one is) body filler not be a
better solution in this case ?


That is a polyster loaded with filler.
Greta stif.

Known around here as 'hard muckite' to distinguish from 'soft muckite'
(mastica and silicones) ;-)

My father used to refer to die-cast ali (as in toys, cheap fittings etc)
as "muckite" - mostly because it was as brittle as crap and usually broke.

Do you mean Mazac ?

--
geoff

On 4 Apr, 19:55, raden wrote:

Do you mean Mazac ?

Mazak or Zamak, if we're going to get snippy over spellings.

Potmetal is older than Zamak and the older zinc potmetals were
especially brittle when aged, owing to purity problems and iron
precipitation. Old Victorian "potmetal" was usually a lead alloy and
ductile rather than brittle (although about as strong as cheese). Some
low-grade Victorian brasses were also termed potmetal, although these
had to be really low grade (usually by being porous) before they
became brittle.

Andy Dingley wrote:

On 4 Apr, 19:55, raden wrote:

Do you mean Mazac ?

Mazak or Zamak, if we're going to get snippy over spellings.

Potmetal is older than Zamak and the older zinc potmetals were
especially brittle when aged, owing to purity problems and iron
precipitation. Old Victorian "potmetal" was usually a lead alloy and
ductile rather than brittle (although about as strong as cheese). Some
low-grade Victorian brasses were also termed potmetal, although these
had to be really low grade (usually by being porous) before they
became brittle.

The stuff I'm thinking of probably was zinc now that people have mentioned
it (rather than ali).

Interesting.

Tim

Coyoteboy wrote:
PC Paul proclaimed to uk.rec.cars.maintenance ...

The wear is an elliptical cone about 10x6mm with a 2mm hole in the
middle, on a rear stay of about 18mm diameter. Any guesses as to
whether JBWeld would patch it up firmly enough for mucking about use
(no World Cup Downhills planned...) or should I just scrap the frame?

A hole right through the stay tubing or just worn into it without
piercing? Which stay - seatstay or chainstay? Either way dont worry
yourself, just keep an eye one it - unless youre doing some
jumps/drops with it you'll notice a hairline fracture coming from it
before it fails completely - I have a fair amount of experience with
breaking bike frames

Right through on the seatstay (where the tyre goes past, curiously enough
;-), but with steep sides - only the bit around the 2mm hole in the very
centre is *thin*.

I'm not planning to do anything too major on it, but I hate having to walk
home...