On my rather old tube of 'regular' Araldite it says it is ok for metal.

If this is so then why would I ever use one of those 2-part adhesives
sold specially for metal? I mean the sort of thing that is usually
coloured grey and can often be bought in car accessory shops?

I need to glue an aluminium ring (about 1.5 inches diameter and about
4mm thick) to a plastic base. There will be some light to moderate
stressing of this arrangement when it is in use.

I figured the Araldite was just fine for the plastic but what about the
metal?

On Sun, 01 Apr 2007 18:35:22 +0100, Alex Coleman
wrote:

On my rather old tube of 'regular' Araldite it says it is ok for metal.


It is OK for metal.

If this is so then why would I ever use one of those 2-part adhesives
sold specially for metal? I mean the sort of thing that is usually
coloured grey and can often be bought in car accessory shops?

Sundry other reasons. If it's what I'm thinking about they contain a
lot of inert filler, it helps filling holes and gaps. The grey colour
is to convince the proles they can fix holes in grey metal with it.

I need to glue an aluminium ring (about 1.5 inches diameter and about
4mm thick) to a plastic base. There will be some light to moderate
stressing of this arrangement when it is in use.

I figured the Araldite was just fine for the plastic but what about the
metal?

It's fine on aluminium per-se.

Less so on plastic, and it depends which plastic.

Set araldite is brittle, if the whole assembly will deflect under load
the joint may break up.

You may need to look further.

DG

"Derek Geldard" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 01 Apr 2007 18:35:22 +0100, Alex Coleman
wrote:

On my rather old tube of 'regular' Araldite it says it is ok for metal.


It is OK for metal.

If this is so then why would I ever use one of those 2-part adhesives
sold specially for metal? I mean the sort of thing that is usually
coloured grey and can often be bought in car accessory shops?

Sundry other reasons. If it's what I'm thinking about they contain a
lot of inert filler, it helps filling holes and gaps. The grey colour
is to convince the proles they can fix holes in grey metal with it.

I need to glue an aluminium ring (about 1.5 inches diameter and about
4mm thick) to a plastic base. There will be some light to moderate
stressing of this arrangement when it is in use.

I figured the Araldite was just fine for the plastic but what about the
metal?

It's fine on aluminium per-se.

Less so on plastic, and it depends which plastic.

Set araldite is brittle, if the whole assembly will deflect under load
the joint may break up.

I use a little less hardener if I think a bit of 'give' is needed.

On 01 Apr 2007, OG wrote:


"Derek Geldard" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 01 Apr 2007 18:35:22 +0100, Alex Coleman
wrote:

On my rather old tube of 'regular' Araldite it says it is ok for
metal.


It is OK for metal.

If this is so then why would I ever use one of those 2-part
adhesives sold specially for metal? I mean the sort of thing that
is usually coloured grey and can often be bought in car accessory
shops?

Sundry other reasons. If it's what I'm thinking about they contain
a lot of inert filler, it helps filling holes and gaps. The grey
colour is to convince the proles they can fix holes in grey metal
with it.

I need to glue an aluminium ring (about 1.5 inches diameter and
about 4mm thick) to a plastic base. There will be some light to
moderate stressing of this arrangement when it is in use.

I figured the Araldite was just fine for the plastic but what
about the metal?

It's fine on aluminium per-se.

Less so on plastic, and it depends which plastic.

Set araldite is brittle, if the whole assembly will deflect under
load the joint may break up.

I use a little less hardener if I think a bit of 'give' is needed.



Doesn't using less hardener with Araldite slow down the rate of
curing rather than give an incomplete (and therefore more flexible)
cure?

On Sun, 01 Apr 2007 20:42:23 +0100, Alex Coleman wrote:

On 01 Apr 2007, OG wrote:


"Derek Geldard" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 01 Apr 2007 18:35:22 +0100, Alex Coleman
wrote:

On my rather old tube of 'regular' Araldite it says it is ok for
metal.


It is OK for metal.

If this is so then why would I ever use one of those 2-part
adhesives sold specially for metal? I mean the sort of thing that
is usually coloured grey and can often be bought in car accessory
shops?

Sundry other reasons. If it's what I'm thinking about they contain
a lot of inert filler, it helps filling holes and gaps. The grey
colour is to convince the proles they can fix holes in grey metal
with it.

I need to glue an aluminium ring (about 1.5 inches diameter and
about 4mm thick) to a plastic base. There will be some light to
moderate stressing of this arrangement when it is in use.

I figured the Araldite was just fine for the plastic but what
about the metal?

It's fine on aluminium per-se.

Less so on plastic, and it depends which plastic.

Set araldite is brittle, if the whole assembly will deflect under
load the joint may break up.

I use a little less hardener if I think a bit of 'give' is needed.



Doesn't using less hardener with Araldite slow down the rate of
curing rather than give an incomplete (and therefore more flexible)
cure?

Yes.

Duncan Wood wrote:
On Sun, 01 Apr 2007 20:42:23 +0100, Alex Coleman wrote:

On 01 Apr 2007, OG wrote:


"Derek Geldard" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 01 Apr 2007 18:35:22 +0100, Alex Coleman
wrote:

On my rather old tube of 'regular' Araldite it says it is ok for
metal.


It is OK for metal.

If this is so then why would I ever use one of those 2-part
adhesives sold specially for metal? I mean the sort of thing that
is usually coloured grey and can often be bought in car accessory
shops?

Sundry other reasons. If it's what I'm thinking about they contain
a lot of inert filler, it helps filling holes and gaps. The grey
colour is to convince the proles they can fix holes in grey metal
with it.

I need to glue an aluminium ring (about 1.5 inches diameter and
about 4mm thick) to a plastic base. There will be some light to
moderate stressing of this arrangement when it is in use.

I figured the Araldite was just fine for the plastic but what
about the metal?

It's fine on aluminium per-se.

Less so on plastic, and it depends which plastic.

Set araldite is brittle, if the whole assembly will deflect under
load the joint may break up.

I use a little less hardener if I think a bit of 'give' is needed.



Doesn't using less hardener with Araldite slow down the rate of
curing rather than give an incomplete (and therefore more flexible)
cure?

Yes.
No.

Alex Coleman wrote:
On 01 Apr 2007, OG wrote:

"Derek Geldard" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 01 Apr 2007 18:35:22 +0100, Alex Coleman
wrote:

On my rather old tube of 'regular' Araldite it says it is ok for
metal.

It is OK for metal.

If this is so then why would I ever use one of those 2-part
adhesives sold specially for metal? I mean the sort of thing that
is usually coloured grey and can often be bought in car accessory
shops?
Sundry other reasons. If it's what I'm thinking about they contain
a lot of inert filler, it helps filling holes and gaps. The grey
colour is to convince the proles they can fix holes in grey metal
with it.

I need to glue an aluminium ring (about 1.5 inches diameter and
about 4mm thick) to a plastic base. There will be some light to
moderate stressing of this arrangement when it is in use.

I figured the Araldite was just fine for the plastic but what
about the metal?
It's fine on aluminium per-se.

Less so on plastic, and it depends which plastic.

Set araldite is brittle, if the whole assembly will deflect under
load the joint may break up.
I use a little less hardener if I think a bit of 'give' is needed.



Doesn't using less hardener with Araldite slow down the rate of
curing rather than give an incomplete (and therefore more flexible)
cure?

Actually it isn't hardener. Its two parts of the glue which have to be
mixed thoroughly and in equal proportions. All that less of one part
does is leave pockets of the other unset.

In message , Alex Coleman
writes
On my rather old tube of 'regular' Araldite it says it is ok for metal.

If this is so then why would I ever use one of those 2-part adhesives
sold specially for metal? I mean the sort of thing that is usually
coloured grey and can often be bought in car accessory shops?

I need to glue an aluminium ring (about 1.5 inches diameter and about
4mm thick) to a plastic base. There will be some light to moderate
stressing of this arrangement when it is in use.

I figured the Araldite was just fine for the plastic but what about the
metal?


Don't forget to roughen up the surface and apply the araldite before it
gets a chance to start oxidizing to any extent

Suitable? Probably, suck it and see

--
geoff

"raden" wrote in message
news
In message , Alex Coleman
writes
On my rather old tube of 'regular' Araldite it says it is ok for metal.

If this is so then why would I ever use one of those 2-part adhesives
sold specially for metal? I mean the sort of thing that is usually
coloured grey and can often be bought in car accessory shops?

I need to glue an aluminium ring (about 1.5 inches diameter and about
4mm thick) to a plastic base. There will be some light to moderate
stressing of this arrangement when it is in use.

I figured the Araldite was just fine for the plastic but what about the
metal?


Don't forget to roughen up the surface and apply the araldite before it
gets a chance to start oxidizing to any extent

Suitable? Probably, suck it and see

--
geoff
I would do the same to the plastic too. Many types of epoxy resin (Araldite
is just a trade name) do not adhere at all well to many plastics. Roughen
the surface to help it key.

Alex Coleman wrote:
On my rather old tube of 'regular' Araldite it says it is ok for
metal.

If this is so then why would I ever use one of those 2-part adhesives
sold specially for metal? I mean the sort of thing that is usually
coloured grey and can often be bought in car accessory shops?

When you say 'tube' of Araldite - do you mean 'tubes' ? AFAIK all Araldite
is 2-part.

I need to glue an aluminium ring (about 1.5 inches diameter and about
4mm thick) to a plastic base. There will be some light to moderate
stressing of this arrangement when it is in use.

I figured the Araldite was just fine for the plastic but what about
the metal?

The plastic might cause more trouble than the aluminium.


--
Dave
The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
01634 717930
07850 597257

On Sun, 01 Apr 2007 18:35:22 +0100, Alex Coleman wrote:

|!On my rather old tube of 'regular' Araldite it says it is ok for metal.
|!
|!If this is so then why would I ever use one of those 2-part adhesives
|!sold specially for metal? I mean the sort of thing that is usually
|!coloured grey and can often be bought in car accessory shops?
|!
|!I need to glue an aluminium ring (about 1.5 inches diameter and about
|!4mm thick) to a plastic base. There will be some light to moderate
|!stressing of this arrangement when it is in use.
|!
|!I figured the Araldite was just fine for the plastic but what about the
|!metal?

Yes! But!
Everything needs to be *real* flat, *real* smooth, and *real* clean, and
not have release agent on it, also both bits need to be rigid. We used to
do it for aircraft components. So if you can do the first two bits within a
few thou (you can measure to 1/10mm can't you), degrease the aluminium and
roughen up the plastic with fine emery and degrease, to get rid any release
agent, get some *new* araldite, then it *may* work, otherwise give up the
idea of araldite.
--
Dave Fawthrop sf hyphenologist.co.uk 165 *Free* SF ebooks.
165 Sci Fi books on CDROM, from Project Gutenberg
http://www.gutenberg.org/wiki/Main_Page Completely Free to any
address in the UK. Contact me on the *above* email address.

Dave Fawthrop wrote:
On Sun, 01 Apr 2007 18:35:22 +0100, Alex Coleman wrote:

|!On my rather old tube of 'regular' Araldite it says it is ok for metal.
|!
|!If this is so then why would I ever use one of those 2-part adhesives
|!sold specially for metal? I mean the sort of thing that is usually
|!coloured grey and can often be bought in car accessory shops?
|!
|!I need to glue an aluminium ring (about 1.5 inches diameter and about
|!4mm thick) to a plastic base. There will be some light to moderate
|!stressing of this arrangement when it is in use.
|!
|!I figured the Araldite was just fine for the plastic but what about the
|!metal?

Yes! But!
Everything needs to be *real* flat, *real* smooth, and *real* clean, and
not have release agent on it, also both bits need to be rigid. We used to
do it for aircraft components. So if you can do the first two bits within a
few thou (you can measure to 1/10mm can't you), degrease the aluminium and
roughen up the plastic with fine emery and degrease, to get rid any release
agent, get some *new* araldite, then it *may* work, otherwise give up the
idea of araldite.

But wouldn't the aluminium be anodised and epoxy primered first? That's
the way that I remember in the aerospace industry. The paint had a much
higher bond to the metal than the 'Hysol'* had to the paint and the
bond was very impressive.


*Hysol is a variant of Araldite and much better all round. It could be
used as an adhesive when mixed in the two parts, or used as a liquid
shim, when various fillers were added, that removed the need for
accurate flatness / surface conformity.

Dave

Alex Coleman wrote in news:Xns9905BD1A2FF9471F3M4@
127.0.0.1:

On my rather old tube of 'regular' Araldite it says it is ok for metal.

If this is so then why would I ever use one of those 2-part adhesives
sold specially for metal? I mean the sort of thing that is usually
coloured grey and can often be bought in car accessory shops?

I need to glue an aluminium ring (about 1.5 inches diameter and about
4mm thick) to a plastic base. There will be some light to moderate
stressing of this arrangement when it is in use.

I figured the Araldite was just fine for the plastic but what about the
metal?

Something like Evostick impact adhesive may be more suitable, it remains
flexible.

--
Tunku

"caution : traces of irony and other metallic objects may be present in
the above post"

"Alex Coleman" wrote in message
...
On my rather old tube of 'regular' Araldite it says it is ok for metal.

If this is so then why would I ever use one of those 2-part adhesives
sold specially for metal? I mean the sort of thing that is usually
coloured grey and can often be bought in car accessory shops?

I need to glue an aluminium ring (about 1.5 inches diameter and about
4mm thick) to a plastic base. There will be some light to moderate
stressing of this arrangement when it is in use.

Araldite is not recommended for use where it may be subjected to a peel
stress.

I figured the Araldite was just fine for the plastic but what about the
metal?

Aluminium to aluminium is the base against which they compare all other
bonds in their data sheets.

Colin Bignell

Alex Coleman wrote:
On my rather old tube of 'regular' Araldite it says it is ok for metal.

If this is so then why would I ever use one of those 2-part adhesives
sold specially for metal? I mean the sort of thing that is usually
coloured grey and can often be bought in car accessory shops?

cos they are better

I need to glue an aluminium ring (about 1.5 inches diameter and about
4mm thick) to a plastic base. There will be some light to moderate
stressing of this arrangement when it is in use.

I figured the Araldite was just fine for the plastic but what about the
metal?

Actaully, is not brimliant for wither. get some 'liquid metal'. That
will work best.

On 1 Apr, 18:35, Alex Coleman wrote:
On my rather old tube of 'regular' Araldite it says it is ok for metal.

It's no worse than on anything else.

Araldite is nearly always a poor choice (Araldite Rapid even more so),
except for its easy availability and the convenient tubes. Most uk.d-i-
y readers would do well to spring the ten-fifteen quid for a West
Systems small pack and some suitable filler (cellulose fluff isn't a
bad start, or else microballoons) (all from Axminster). A real low-
viscosity high-quality epoxy is streets ahead of ready-filled tube
epoxies. You can fill it to suit, as necessary.

JB Weld is a steel-powder filled tube epoxy. Much the same applies as
for Araldite vs. West System.

Compared to Araldite though, JB Weld is rather more useful for "heavy"
uses. The numerical strength might not look much better on paper, but
things like creep under load are improved by the filler.

Andy Dingley wrote:
On 1 Apr, 18:35, Alex Coleman wrote:
On my rather old tube of 'regular' Araldite it says it is ok for
metal.

It's no worse than on anything else.

Araldite is nearly always a poor choice (Araldite Rapid even more so),
except for its easy availability and the convenient tubes. Most
uk.d-i- y readers would do well to spring the ten-fifteen quid for a
West Systems small pack and some suitable filler (cellulose fluff
isn't a bad start, or else microballoons) (all from Axminster). A
real low- viscosity high-quality epoxy is streets ahead of
ready-filled tube epoxies. You can fill it to suit, as necessary.

JB Weld is a steel-powder filled tube epoxy. Much the same applies as
for Araldite vs. West System.

Compared to Araldite though, JB Weld is rather more useful for "heavy"
uses. The numerical strength might not look much better on paper, but
things like creep under load are improved by the filler.

I've got an aluminium bike frame with a small hole worn in it, when it was
ridden with a tyre rubbing the frame.. (damn kids).

The wear is an elliptical cone about 10x6mm with a 2mm hole in the middle,
on a rear stay of about 18mm diameter. Any guesses as to whether JBWeld
would patch it up firmly enough for mucking about use (no World Cup
Downhills planned...) or should I just scrap the frame?

PC Paul wrote:
Andy Dingley wrote:
On 1 Apr, 18:35, Alex Coleman wrote:
On my rather old tube of 'regular' Araldite it says it is ok for
metal.
It's no worse than on anything else.

Araldite is nearly always a poor choice (Araldite Rapid even more so),
except for its easy availability and the convenient tubes. Most
uk.d-i- y readers would do well to spring the ten-fifteen quid for a
West Systems small pack and some suitable filler (cellulose fluff
isn't a bad start, or else microballoons) (all from Axminster). A
real low- viscosity high-quality epoxy is streets ahead of
ready-filled tube epoxies. You can fill it to suit, as necessary.

JB Weld is a steel-powder filled tube epoxy. Much the same applies as
for Araldite vs. West System.

Compared to Araldite though, JB Weld is rather more useful for "heavy"
uses. The numerical strength might not look much better on paper, but
things like creep under load are improved by the filler.

I've got an aluminium bike frame with a small hole worn in it, when it was
ridden with a tyre rubbing the frame.. (damn kids).

The wear is an elliptical cone about 10x6mm with a 2mm hole in the middle,
on a rear stay of about 18mm diameter. Any guesses as to whether JBWeld
would patch it up firmly enough for mucking about use (no World Cup
Downhills planned...) or should I just scrap the frame?



Jb weld will patch it,but for strength I'd wrap it with glass fibre
cloth doused in polyester resin..

Alex Coleman wrote
On my rather old tube of 'regular' Araldite it says it is ok for metal.

Where do you keep it?
I mislaid my Araldite yonks ago and I finally gave up searching for the
damn stuff today, and bought another lot.
Now that I have two lots of it, how long will it be before the original
lot turns up?
--
Roger Hunt

On Wed, 4 Apr 2007 15:35:12 +0100, Roger Hunt
wrote:

Alex Coleman wrote
On my rather old tube of 'regular' Araldite it says it is ok for metal.

Where do you keep it?
I mislaid my Araldite yonks ago and I finally gave up searching for the
damn stuff today, and bought another lot.
Now that I have two lots of it, how long will it be before the original
lot turns up?

When you tread on the old one and burst it over the floor silly!