Need a bit if help choosing the best kind of araldite to use!
If I'm correct the standard 5-min isn't the strongest. Does it follow
the slower drying ones (eg 30 min) set to stronger bonds?

Seb

wrote:
Need a bit if help choosing the best kind of araldite to use!
If I'm correct the standard 5-min isn't the strongest. Does it follow
the slower drying ones (eg 30 min) set to stronger bonds?

Seb

What are you bonding?

--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite

wrote:
Need a bit if help choosing the best kind of araldite to use!
If I'm correct the standard 5-min isn't the strongest. Does it follow
the slower drying ones (eg 30 min) set to stronger bonds?

All else being equal, yes.


Exactly how to get the strongest bond depends on a whole host of
factors, surface cleanliness and preparation, materials to be glued,
geometry of the gluejoint, flex in materials to be glued, ...

On 24 Mar 2006 08:11:08 -0800, wrote:

Need a bit if help choosing the best kind of araldite to use!

There is almost certainly something better.

--
Nigel M

Ian Stirling wrote:
wrote:
Need a bit if help choosing the best kind of araldite to use!
If I'm correct the standard 5-min isn't the strongest. Does it follow
the slower drying ones (eg 30 min) set to stronger bonds?

All else being equal, yes.

Generally the longer the setting time the stronger the bond. A single part
polyurethane might be easier, like Gorilla Glue.

--
Dave
The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
01634 717930
07850 597257

In message , The Medway
Handyman writes
Ian Stirling wrote:
wrote:
Need a bit if help choosing the best kind of araldite to use!
If I'm correct the standard 5-min isn't the strongest. Does it follow
the slower drying ones (eg 30 min) set to stronger bonds?

All else being equal, yes.

Generally the longer the setting time the stronger the bond. A single part
polyurethane might be easier, like Gorilla Glue.

You can accelerate Araldite curing time by applying a modest level of
heat. What it does to bond strength is beyond my knowledge.

regards


--
Tim Lamb

On Fri, 24 Mar 2006 21:37:51 +0000, Tim Lamb
wrote:

In message , The Medway
Handyman writes
Ian Stirling wrote:
wrote:
Need a bit if help choosing the best kind of araldite to use!
If I'm correct the standard 5-min isn't the strongest. Does it follow
the slower drying ones (eg 30 min) set to stronger bonds?

All else being equal, yes.

Generally the longer the setting time the stronger the bond. A single part
polyurethane might be easier, like Gorilla Glue.

You can accelerate Araldite curing time by applying a modest level of
heat. What it does to bond strength is beyond my knowledge.


It weekens it.

IME to more/less what the equivalent "Rapid" would have been. Though
you can end up getting bubbles in it.

No good.

DG

Tim Lamb wrote:
In message , The
Medway Handyman writes
Ian Stirling wrote:
wrote:
Need a bit if help choosing the best kind of araldite to use!
If I'm correct the standard 5-min isn't the strongest. Does it
follow the slower drying ones (eg 30 min) set to stronger bonds?

All else being equal, yes.

Generally the longer the setting time the stronger the bond. A
single part polyurethane might be easier, like Gorilla Glue.

You can accelerate Araldite curing time by applying a modest level of
heat. What it does to bond strength is beyond my knowledge.

regards


--
Tim Lamb

Not a good thing to do,given the fact the curing process is at normal
tempretures to the instructions

--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite

The3rd Earl Of Derby wrote:
wrote:
Need a bit if help choosing the best kind of araldite to use!
If I'm correct the standard 5-min isn't the strongest. Does it follow
the slower drying ones (eg 30 min) set to stronger bonds?

Seb

What are you bonding?

--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite

No specific project in mind, but I often use it to fix shoes--I know
you're supposed to use Evo for that but I keep thinking 2-part resins
are stronger. The Evo seems to work off after a while, although the
5-min araldite I'm using isn't a lot better. So I was hoping stronger
araldite could do the trick.

Seb

wrote:
The3rd Earl Of Derby wrote:
wrote:
Need a bit if help choosing the best kind of araldite to use!
If I'm correct the standard 5-min isn't the strongest. Does it
follow the slower drying ones (eg 30 min) set to stronger bonds?

Seb

What are you bonding?

--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite

No specific project in mind, but I often use it to fix shoes--I know
you're supposed to use Evo for that but I keep thinking 2-part resins
are stronger. The Evo seems to work off after a while, although the
5-min araldite I'm using isn't a lot better. So I was hoping stronger
araldite could do the trick.

Seb

Hot gluegun for the soul. ;-) yes,yes I know(sole)

--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite

On 24 Mar 2006 14:22:08 -0800, wrote:

I keep thinking 2-part resins are stronger.

But not flexible. Ask a cobbler what he uses.

--
Nigel M

On Fri, 24 Mar 2006 21:37:51 +0000, Tim Lamb wrote:

You can accelerate Araldite curing time by applying a modest level of heat.

When I was a kid, I broke a leg off a table. I mixed up some Cascamite
(wonderful stuff), and glued it back together. Only problem, parents
coming back in 3 hours.

I put the heating on full, and put every electric fire in my bedroom
(which also had the hot water tank in it). I got the temperature above
125 degrees Fahrenheit (50 Celsius) - the greenhouse thermometer ran
out at that point.

Glue was set in 2 hours (normally took 24), parents never knew.

--
Nigel M

In message .com,
writes

The3rd Earl Of Derby wrote:
wrote:
Need a bit if help choosing the best kind of araldite to use!
If I'm correct the standard 5-min isn't the strongest. Does it follow
the slower drying ones (eg 30 min) set to stronger bonds?

Seb

What are you bonding?

--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite

No specific project in mind, but I often use it to fix shoes--I know
you're supposed to use Evo for that but I keep thinking 2-part resins
are stronger. The Evo seems to work off after a while, although the
5-min araldite I'm using isn't a lot better. So I was hoping stronger
araldite could do the trick.

Not very flexible though

--
geoff

Tim Lamb wrote:

You can accelerate Araldite curing time by applying a modest level of
heat. What it does to bond strength is beyond my knowledge.

I used similar epoxy resins in a job for six years. I discovered
that moderate heat helped the epoxy to set better and harder.
Heat also helps if you have not got the mixture proportions quite
right (which usually happens when mixing a small quantity).
The heat was applied by putting the article to be glued in a box
containing a light bulb, for a few hours. It is important to heat
the article before applying the epoxy. It will tend to get very
runny at that stage, so allow for that.

wrote in message
oups.com...
Need a bit if help choosing the best kind of araldite to use!
If I'm correct the standard 5-min isn't the strongest. Does it follow
the slower drying ones (eg 30 min) set to stronger bonds?

Seb


If you can find one locally, visit a stonecutter/mason. The sort of firm
that makes stone tops for bathrooms/kitchens etc. I have one as a tenant.
They use araldite type stuff for glueing sinks/basins to worktops etc.
Certainly smells the same.
2Kgs I think is about a tenner inc. hardener
Much too inflexible for shoes unfortunately and where are we to find a
cobbler today.
I have a couple of tins in my workshop, can send a name or link (if
available) should you wish.

Nick

Tim Lamb wrote:
In message , The Medway
Handyman writes
Ian Stirling wrote:
wrote:
Need a bit if help choosing the best kind of araldite to use!
If I'm correct the standard 5-min isn't the strongest. Does it follow
the slower drying ones (eg 30 min) set to stronger bonds?

All else being equal, yes.

Generally the longer the setting time the stronger the bond. A single part
polyurethane might be easier, like Gorilla Glue.

You can accelerate Araldite curing time by applying a modest level of
heat. What it does to bond strength is beyond my knowledge.

AIUI.
Epoxies are complex beasts.
Basically, the faster the epoxy, the more the reaction does not go to
completion, but sticks part way there.
This means there is less reacted epoxy molecules as a proportion of the
whole, and the ends of the molecules which would normally join together
instead get immobilised by the molecules that are set around them.

Once it's 'set' (say 10 times the setting time) not much happens.
Until you raise it above a certain temperature for the first time.
Then the strength drops a bit as the ends of the unbound molecules whip
around due to thermal vibrations, and reform so that more of them are
joined up.
When it cools again, it's stronger - though less flexible than before.
Heating again to the same temperature as before does nothing.

Setting at elevated temperatures does nothing bad - apart from losing
flexibility.

Then there is the whole issue of differences in the coefficient of
expansion of the epoxy and the substrate - if you cure it at elevated
temperatures, you're going to lock in some stress, which may weaken the
joint.

Then there is heat generated while setting, and the fact that it can
get hot enough to damage the setting epoxy.

On Fri, 24 Mar 2006 22:26:56 GMT, "The3rd Earl Of Derby"
wrote:

wrote:
The3rd Earl Of Derby wrote:
wrote:
Need a bit if help choosing the best kind of araldite to use!
If I'm correct the standard 5-min isn't the strongest. Does it
follow the slower drying ones (eg 30 min) set to stronger bonds?

Seb

What are you bonding?

--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite

No specific project in mind, but I often use it to fix shoes--I know
you're supposed to use Evo for that but I keep thinking 2-part resins
are stronger. The Evo seems to work off after a while, although the
5-min araldite I'm using isn't a lot better. So I was hoping stronger
araldite could do the trick.

Seb

Hot gluegun for the soul. ;-) yes,yes I know(sole)

Presumably using fish glue?


--

..andy


Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services
----------------------------------------------------------
** SPEED ** RETENTION ** COMPLETION ** ANONYMITY **
----------------------------------------------------------
http://www.usenet.com

On Sat, 25 Mar 2006 07:14:19 +0000, Andy Hall wrote:

Presumably using fish glue?

Oh no, not this gag again.

--
Nigel M

On Fri, 24 Mar 2006 22:43:50 +0000, Nigel Molesworth
wrote:

On Fri, 24 Mar 2006 21:37:51 +0000, Tim Lamb wrote:

You can accelerate Araldite curing time by applying a modest level of heat.

When I was a kid, I broke a leg off a table. I mixed up some Cascamite
(wonderful stuff), and glued it back together. Only problem, parents
coming back in 3 hours.

I put the heating on full, and put every electric fire in my bedroom
(which also had the hot water tank in it). I got the temperature above
125 degrees Fahrenheit (50 Celsius) - the greenhouse thermometer ran
out at that point.

Glue was set in 2 hours (normally took 24), parents never knew.

Impressive, but a guy I knew at university managed to roll his mum's
mini into a ditch while she was about three days into a fortnights
holiday after leaving her previously trustworthy son in sole charge of
the family home. He wasn't insured and only had a bike licence. By
calling in quite a few favours and using a huge chunk of his grant he
reshelled it and it looked as good as new when they came back. He
would have got away with it except for one small detail.

Before she went on holiday his mum had caught the headlining with a
ring and had torn it slightly. A few weeks later when she booked it
in for a service she mentioned the headlining and went out to the car
to show the service receptionist the damage. But obviously none was
found. She smelt a rat, and when grilled her son lost his nerve and
spilled the beans. He went without drink for the best part of the
next year and still paying back his huge overdraft years later.

--

silicono2 wrote:
I often use it to fix shoes--I know
you're supposed to use Evo for that but I keep thinking 2-part resins
are stronger. The Evo seems to work off after a while, although the
5-min araldite I'm using isn't a lot better. So I was hoping stronger
araldite could do the trick.

It's rigid, and the bond will fail quickly. You ought to buy some
shoe glue (polteurethane with toluene solvent).

wrote:
Need a bit if help choosing the best kind of araldite to use!
If I'm correct the standard 5-min isn't the strongest. Does it follow
the slower drying ones (eg 30 min) set to stronger bonds?

Seb

More or less yes.

But epoxies are many and varied, and there is a huge range for
industrial uses - essentially you can juggle setting times, brittleness,
strength, temperature range etc etc almost ad infinitum.

What you buy in a shed is merely a cheap stripped down version of one of
these deemed 'suitable for domestic use' and put in a fancy pack and
marked up 30000%.

Tim Lamb wrote:
In message , The Medway
Handyman writes
Ian Stirling wrote:
wrote:
Need a bit if help choosing the best kind of araldite to use!
If I'm correct the standard 5-min isn't the strongest. Does it follow
the slower drying ones (eg 30 min) set to stronger bonds?

All else being equal, yes.

Generally the longer the setting time the stronger the bond. A single
part
polyurethane might be easier, like Gorilla Glue.

You can accelerate Araldite curing time by applying a modest level of
heat. What it does to bond strength is beyond my knowledge.

modest? We used to cure 24 hour alardite in ten minutes with a
hairdryer when it first came out (1963?) . It went translucent and dark
brown, and was MUCH stronger.

I use epoxy a lot in model making, and always try to get some heat into
it to get it runnier. It seems that if you don;t heat to cure, sometimes
its prone to soften under heat anyway. No idea why..

Aircraft skins that are epoxy bonded use a lot of heat in the cure.


regards

wrote:
The3rd Earl Of Derby wrote:
wrote:
Need a bit if help choosing the best kind of araldite to use!
If I'm correct the standard 5-min isn't the strongest. Does it follow
the slower drying ones (eg 30 min) set to stronger bonds?

Seb
What are you bonding?

--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite

No specific project in mind, but I often use it to fix shoes--I know
you're supposed to use Evo for that but I keep thinking 2-part resins
are stronger. The Evo seems to work off after a while, although the
5-min araldite I'm using isn't a lot better. So I was hoping stronger
araldite could do the trick.


Shoes? Too brittle - use a polyurethane adhesive. Or superglue.


Seb

Ian Stirling wrote:
Tim Lamb wrote:
In message , The Medway
Handyman writes
Ian Stirling wrote:
wrote:
Need a bit if help choosing the best kind of araldite to use!
If I'm correct the standard 5-min isn't the strongest. Does it follow
the slower drying ones (eg 30 min) set to stronger bonds?
All else being equal, yes.
Generally the longer the setting time the stronger the bond. A single part
polyurethane might be easier, like Gorilla Glue.
You can accelerate Araldite curing time by applying a modest level of
heat. What it does to bond strength is beyond my knowledge.

AIUI.
Epoxies are complex beasts.
Basically, the faster the epoxy, the more the reaction does not go to
completion, but sticks part way there.
This means there is less reacted epoxy molecules as a proportion of the
whole, and the ends of the molecules which would normally join together
instead get immobilised by the molecules that are set around them.

Once it's 'set' (say 10 times the setting time) not much happens.
Until you raise it above a certain temperature for the first time.
Then the strength drops a bit as the ends of the unbound molecules whip
around due to thermal vibrations, and reform so that more of them are
joined up.
When it cools again, it's stronger - though less flexible than before.
Heating again to the same temperature as before does nothing.


THANK you. That is EXACTLY what I have observed. Rubbery cures until
heated, then she sets rock hard..

Setting at elevated temperatures does nothing bad - apart from losing
flexibility.

Then there is the whole issue of differences in the coefficient of
expansion of the epoxy and the substrate - if you cure it at elevated
temperatures, you're going to lock in some stress, which may weaken the
joint.

Then there is heat generated while setting, and the fact that it can
get hot enough to damage the setting epoxy.

In article .com
wrote:
snip

No specific project in mind, but I often use it to fix shoes--I know
you're supposed to use Evo for that but I keep thinking 2-part resins
are stronger. The Evo seems to work off after a while, although the
5-min araldite I'm using isn't a lot better. So I was hoping stronger
araldite could do the trick.

A 1-part polyurethane adhesive is probably better for that.

Rob Morley wrote:
In article .com
wrote:
snip
No specific project in mind, but I often use it to fix shoes--I know
you're supposed to use Evo for that but I keep thinking 2-part resins
are stronger. The Evo seems to work off after a while, although the
5-min araldite I'm using isn't a lot better. So I was hoping stronger
araldite could do the trick.

A 1-part polyurethane adhesive is probably better for that.

"Bison" shoe adhesive which is a one-part non-foaming adhesive is best.
Araldite is a poor choice for shoes, it may be strong but it doesn't
work well if the leather is moist (as from sweat) and it doesn't
tolerate flexing at all.

In article ,
lid says...
On 24 Mar 2006 08:11:08 -0800, wrote:

Need a bit if help choosing the best kind of araldite to use!

There is almost certainly something better.

Rubber glue is much better for this job. The horrible black gooey stuff
(which hopefully someone can name) not the Copydex type. Sticks like
****, can be flexed as much as you like and will outlive the shoes. Has
to be used very carefully unless your shoes are black.

Anna
--
~~ Anna Kettle, Suffolk, England
|""""| ~ Lime plaster repair and conservation
/ ^^ \ // Freehand modelling in lime: overmantels, pargeting etc
|____| www.kettlenet.co.uk 01359 230642

In message , The Natural
Philosopher writes

You can accelerate Araldite curing time by applying a modest level
of heat. What it does to bond strength is beyond my knowledge.

modest? We used to cure 24 hour alardite in ten minutes with a
hairdryer when it first came out (1963?) . It went translucent and dark
brown, and was MUCH stronger.

I use a Black and Decker paint stripper. No good for paint but
marvellous for de-frosting pipes, drying welding rods, softening
plastics etc.

regards
--
Tim Lamb

In message , Anna Kettle
writes
In article ,
says...
On 24 Mar 2006 08:11:08 -0800, wrote:

Need a bit if help choosing the best kind of araldite to use!

There is almost certainly something better.

Rubber glue is much better for this job. The horrible black gooey stuff
(which hopefully someone can name) not the Copydex type. Sticks like
****, can be flexed as much as you like and will outlive the shoes. Has
to be used very carefully unless your shoes are black.

Bostick?

regards
--
Tim Lamb

All a bit confusing, but I agree araldite is a bit brittle. It seems
the single part polyurethane is what I need (or the black rubber
cement)--thanks again,

Seb