 |
|
| UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
| Reply |
|
|
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
Power Tool FAQ, & Drill-bit and Drilling FAQ
x-noarchive
The "Power Tool FAQ", & updated "Drill-bit and Drilling FAQ" are on the brink of release within our main FAQ. If anyone wants to make any last minute input a pre-release version is at http://www.diyfaq.org.uk/testing/con...tml#powertools Any comments appreciated on broken links, typos, punctuation, grammar, readability, facts, gibberish, content, style etc. Feel free to email me if you have comments you think too trivial to post here. Phil phil_a (a t) big foot (stop) c om = make obvious corrections PS Did I mention content? |
|
#2
|
|||
|
|||
|
Phil Addison wrote:
x-noarchive The "Power Tool FAQ", & updated "Drill-bit and Drilling FAQ" are on the brink of release within our main FAQ. If anyone wants to make any last minute input a pre-release version is at http://www.diyfaq.org.uk/testing/con...tml#powertools Any comments appreciated on broken links, typos, punctuation, grammar, readability, facts, gibberish, content, style etc. I would split out "multimaterial drills" into a seperate section". Perhaps "Drilling anything!" And what about a little speed/feed table, perhaps listing cutting speed for a given combination (HSS/steel) and recommended maximum speeds at 2mm, 5mm, 10mm? After "Hole saws", something like. The type of hole saw with cutters that are complete cylinders with one end closed and fitted for an attachment to a common arbour are significantly longer lasting and easier to use in any but the softest materials than the type that are merely circular strips of sawblade that clip onto a base. After "Wire brushes". This is one tool that may be particularly handy when combined with a flexible shaft for your drill. This can let you remove rust in otherwise very hard to reach places. However, never let the flexible shaft form more than a 90 degree bend, otherwise it will wind round itself, and be destroyed. After "get a new one" " (check the drill is not in reverse!)" |
|
#3
|
|||
|
|||
|
On 15 Sep 2005 23:42:01 GMT, in uk.d-i-y Ian Stirling
wrote: Phil Addison wrote: x-noarchive The "Power Tool FAQ", & updated "Drill-bit and Drilling FAQ" are on the brink of release within our main FAQ. If anyone wants to make any last minute input a pre-release version is at http://www.diyfaq.org.uk/testing/con...tml#powertools Any comments appreciated on broken links, typos, punctuation, grammar, readability, facts, gibberish, content, style etc. I would split out "multimaterial drills" into a seperate section". Perhaps "Drilling anything!" Possibly, but wouldn't the content under it would be a little sparse. Just "Drills anything"?? I have never actually tried these myself. And what about a little speed/feed table, perhaps listing cutting speed for a given combination (HSS/steel) and recommended maximum speeds at 2mm, 5mm, 10mm? Yes please. After "Hole saws", something like. The type of hole saw with cutters that are complete cylinders with one end closed and fitted for an attachment to a common arbour are significantly longer lasting and easier to use in any but the softest materials than the type that are merely circular strips of sawblade that clip onto a base. Yes After "Wire brushes". This is one tool that may be particularly handy when combined with a flexible shaft for your drill. This can let you remove rust in otherwise very hard to reach places. However, never let the flexible shaft form more than a 90 degree bend, otherwise it will wind round itself, and be destroyed. After "get a new one" " (check the drill is not in reverse!)" Yes :-) Thanks for those. Phil The uk.d-i-y FAQ is at http://www.diyfaq.org.uk/ The Google uk.d-i-y archive is at http://tinyurl.com/65kwq Remove NOSPAM from address to email me |
|
#4
|
|||
|
|||
|
Phil Addison wrote:
I would split out "multimaterial drills" into a seperate section". Perhaps "Drilling anything!" Possibly, but wouldn't the content under it would be a little sparse. Just "Drills anything"?? I have never actually tried these myself. I put em under the masonry section since that seems to be what they do very well, while being OK for other things. (Must admit I quite like them - very handy to keep in the cordless drill case and know that you can tackle most jobs without needing to remember to take several sets of drills with you). After "Wire brushes". This is one tool that may be particularly handy when combined with a flexible shaft for your drill. A flexi shaft with a 90 degree turn on the end like an angle grinder would be even better if you find such a thing... (like a man sized dentists drill) After "get a new one" " (check the drill is not in reverse!)" BTSTGTTS ;-) (you also find the torque limiter on your SDS does not when drilling backwards!) -- Cheers, John. /================================================== ===============\ | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------| | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \================================================= ================/ |
|
#5
|
|||
|
|||
|
Phil Addison wrote:
On 15 Sep 2005 23:42:01 GMT, in uk.d-i-y Ian Stirling wrote: Phil Addison wrote: x-noarchive The "Power Tool FAQ", & updated "Drill-bit and Drilling FAQ" are on the brink of release within our main FAQ. If anyone wants to make any last minute input a pre-release version is at http://www.diyfaq.org.uk/testing/con...tml#powertools Any comments appreciated on broken links, typos, punctuation, grammar, readability, facts, gibberish, content, style etc. I would split out "multimaterial drills" into a seperate section". Perhaps "Drilling anything!" Possibly, but wouldn't the content under it would be a little sparse. Just "Drills anything"?? I have never actually tried these myself. And what about a little speed/feed table, perhaps listing cutting speed for a given combination (HSS/steel) and recommended maximum speeds at 2mm, 5mm, 10mm? Yes please. Tomorrow/next day maybe. |
|
#6
|
|||
|
|||
|
On Thu, 15 Sep 2005 21:54:25 GMT, Phil Addison
wrote: | x-noarchive | | The "Power Tool FAQ", & updated "Drill-bit and Drilling FAQ" are on the | brink of release within our main FAQ. If anyone wants to make any last | minute input a pre-release version is at | http://www.diyfaq.org.uk/testing/con...tml#powertools | | Any comments appreciated on broken links, typos, punctuation, grammar, | readability, facts, gibberish, content, style etc. | | Feel free to email me if you have comments you think too trivial to post | here. Making an On Topic, very interesting, advert for a link to a FAQ which will probably last for years "x-noarchive" is IMO self defeating, and IMO utterly daft. I personally use groups.google regularly to find information which has expired on my good newserver. -- Dave Fawthrop dave hyphenologist co uk "Intelligent Design?" my knees say *not*. "Intelligent Design?" my back says *not*. |
|
#7
|
|||
|
|||
|
Dave Fawthrop wrote:
| http://www.diyfaq.org.uk/testing/con...tml#powertools ^^^^^^^ Making an On Topic, very interesting, advert for a link to a FAQ which will probably last for years "x-noarchive" is IMO self defeating, and IMO utterly daft. Do you not suppose that a link to a draft copy of a FAQ in a *temporary* directory is not going to be terribly useful in a week once it is no longer there? I personally use groups.google regularly to find information which has expired on my good newserver. And you would then find the regular posted links to the real FAQ site. -- Cheers, John. /================================================== ===============\ | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------| | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \================================================= ================/ |
|
#8
|
|||
|
|||
|
x-noarchive
Re-revised pages now up in pre-release area: http://www.diyfaq.org.uk/testing/pow...s/cordless.htm Re-written section "What about “Watts”?" http://www.diyfaq.org.uk/testing/pow...s/drillfaq.htm Re-written sections "Hole Saws" "Core Drills" Added comments to "Wire brushes" Any more comments appreciated on broken links, typos, punctuation, grammar, readability, facts, gibberish, content, style etc. Did I mention content? Feel free to email me if you have comments you think too trivial to post here. Phil phil_a (a t) big foot (stop) c om = make obvious corrections Phil The uk.d-i-y FAQ is at http://www.diyfaq.org.uk/ The Google uk.d-i-y archive is at http://tinyurl.com/65kwq Remove NOSPAM from address to email me |
|
#9
|
|||
|
|||
|
Phil Addison wrote:
x-noarchive The "Power Tool FAQ", & updated "Drill-bit and Drilling FAQ" are on the brink of release within our main FAQ. If anyone wants to make any last minute input a pre-release version is at http://www.diyfaq.org.uk/testing/con...tml#powertools Any comments appreciated on broken links, typos, punctuation, grammar, readability, facts, gibberish, content, style etc. Feel free to email me if you have comments you think too trivial to post here. Phil phil_a (a t) big foot (stop) c om = make obvious corrections PS Did I mention content? The line about D200 drills wants re-hashing as the first sentence refers to the end of my comments about C1150 drills and introducing the D200 drills. As another poster asked about rotation speeds for drill sizes and feed rates, I would say that this depends very much on what is being drilled and by what tool. e.g. When drilling very hard steel, it is necessary to make sure that lots of pressure is applied to the twist drill. On the other hand, aluminium, copper and brass can be better drilled at a slower feed rate, but quite a fast rotational speed. Just to complicate things, the angle of the cutting edge may have to change for soft metals. Twist drills are usually ground for drilling mild steel Pin drills (those that have a feed handle to lower the cutter, base plate to place the drilled item and a variable speed of rotation) will drill slightly different to a hand held powered drill. The use of a cutting fluid will change the rules again. It's a complex topic, is drilling metal :-) Just thought of another variable. When using an electric drill to drill holes, if you only grip the pistol handle, you will tend to bend the drill. Because the pressure is not behind the cutter, but at an angle to it, this causes the cutter to wander away from the intended position of the hole. The way round this, is to lean the drill body at the opposite angle to the point you want to drill. This makes the drill bit wander where you want it to drill the hole. (If anyone doesn't understand that, I will expand on it when the whisky wears off :-) Perhaps it is time to tap into the knowledge of the group and get the experts in the various materials to tell you. I know a little of drilling metal, but nothing about drilling wood etc. Dave |
|
#10
|
|||
|
|||
|
On Fri, 16 Sep 2005 18:21:55 +0000 (UTC), in uk.d-i-y you wrote:
Phil Addison wrote: Any comments appreciated on broken links, typos, punctuation, grammar, readability, facts, gibberish, content, style etc. The line about D200 drills wants re-hashing as the first sentence refers to the end of my comments about C1150 drills and introducing the D200 drills. Re-hashed now. Should it be "D200" or "D 200", ditto the "C"? As another poster asked about rotation speeds for drill sizes and feed rates, I would say that this depends very much on what is being drilled and by what tool. So a 3 column table of Material/Diameter/Speed? I can slot in table if someone provides the content. Meanwhile I have incorporated the basics of your para above and the two below. e.g. When drilling very hard steel, it is necessary to make sure that lots of pressure is applied to the twist drill. On the other hand, aluminium, copper and brass can be better drilled at a slower feed rate, but quite a fast rotational speed. Just to complicate things, the angle of the cutting edge may have to change for soft metals. Twist drills are usually ground for drilling mild steel Pin drills (those that have a feed handle to lower the cutter, base plate to place the drilled item and a variable speed of rotation) will drill slightly different to a hand held powered drill. The use of a cutting fluid will change the rules again. It's a complex topic, is drilling metal :-) I'm not familiar wit the term Pin Drill. Is it covered by the general term Pillar Drill as already used in that section? Just thought of another variable. When using an electric drill to drill holes, if you only grip the pistol handle, you will tend to bend the drill. Because the pressure is not behind the cutter, but at an angle to it, this causes the cutter to wander away from the intended position of the hole. The way round this, is to lean the drill body at the opposite angle to the point you want to drill. This makes the drill bit wander where you want it to drill the hole. (If anyone doesn't understand that, I will expand on it when the whisky wears off :-) Not sure about that one. I use two hands on my drill, one on the trigger handle to take the weight and (try to) keep the bit vertical, and the other hand at the back of the drill to apply pressure in line with the drill axis. Seems a natural grasp to me. I just realised the main point (that actually is missing in this text) is to centre punch the job first. There is a technique to this that allows you to pull a slightly 'off' punch mark into the exact desired place. Perhaps it is time to tap into the knowledge of the group and get the experts in the various materials to tell you. I know a little of drilling metal, but nothing about drilling wood etc. Err... did I mention content? :-) Thanks for the useful input. drillfaq page updated again - let me know if I've mucked up your input in the editing. ;-) Phil The uk.d-i-y FAQ is at http://www.diyfaq.org.uk/ The Google uk.d-i-y archive is at http://tinyurl.com/65kwq Remove NOSPAM from address to email me |
|
#11
|
|||
|
|||
|
Phil Addison wrote:
re drilling faq Nice job, lots of info. I always like to be a pain, so could offer a few more snippets to think about: another way to avoid dust is to tie your hoover hose to the depth stop on the drill. Although its a bit to the side, the air suction takes care of that no problem. I've saved endless work that way, makes a big difference. If it were my faq I might replace 'very hot' with red hot, in case folks may not realise just how seriously hot they can go. I've had bits go red hot in the days before hammer drills. Driling laminates eg formica tends to produce a messy hole. Pressing a piece of hardboard over it and drilling through that makes a big difference. (Same with sawing the stuff.) Downward pressure must be maintained while drilling, a clamp is often the easy way. I've always found standard twist drills do soft metals acceptably as long as one goes real easy on pressure. The angle is too aggressive, but using less pressure counters this fairly well, preventing gouging and binding. Breaking through is best done by holding the chuck and turning it by hand, problems are likely if you try and power through. Lip and spur bits: these drill wood faster and with less effort than standard twist, so are recommended for codless use. And really for most wood drilling use. You say flat bits drill clean holes: how? whenever I've used them theyve been pretty msesy. One advantage of a flat bit is that if youre caught without the right size bit you can use a hammer to make one out of anything rodlike. Auger bits need high torque and very low drill speed. Theyre barely suitable for mains drills. All drill bits should be removed from an unfinished hole while being spun clockwise, except for augers, and expcet when it has dug right in and wont turn. "Then there are those you find in DIY sheds. these are thin bendy spring steel things that do not quite form a complete circle, and you get a whole set of them mounted on a single wide arbour.These thin floppy ones can cut holes through sheet materials, though not much else. The arbour is always bigger than the cutter so you can drill no deeper than the exposed depth of the blade. The set comes with all the blades mounted on the arbour, but in use they should all be removed except the one required, remembering to do the securing grub-screw up tight" I can add that these must be used with much gentleness and patience, as applying even mild to normal driling pressure is enough to ruin them immediately, and damage the workpiece. They are a very weak cheapskate option. I know this from experience. Theyre ideal where few holes are ever needed, as theyre slow, weak, likely to be short lived, but very cheap. There must be a proper name for these? decent from a ladder - descent from a ladder Sanding discs: use a light stroking action to avoid gauges. Once you get the hang of it its quite prctical to sand large quantities of wood this way. But if you dont get the hang of it, I hope you like crescent shapes! "How do I stop my drill-bit from slipping in the chuck?" easy, use less pressure. "Cutting off the last foot of cable and rewiring the drill could save you the price of a new drill (do unplug it first!)" yes, but this tends to happen at both ends. If one end has gone, the other end will most likely be in an unsafe state, so the same trick should be done both ends. I notice you didnt mntion hex shank drills. I use these a lot, theyre a real time and energy saver because the bits can be swapped over by just pulling it out and pushing the new one in. A hex adaptor for the drill is a real time saver. The downsides a - high torque must be avoided, since the bit is liable to come unstuck from the hex base - the bits cost more than round twist drills, but theyre well worth it. - they tend to wobble a bit, which can be an issue in a minority of situations. With hex shank I'd recommend titanium coated ones. Ti coating is a great thing anyway, plus it reduces the required torque. thanks for the work, NT |
|
#13
|
|||
|
|||
|
Phil Addison wrote:
On 17 Sep 2005 07:36:28 -0700, in uk.d-i-y wrote: Phil Addison wrote: Lip and spur bits: these drill wood faster and with less effort than standard twist, so are recommended for codless use. And really for most wood drilling use. More expensive? Sure, though not always. Poundland do a set of 10 for =A31, and remarkably they seem to work well. Well worth it, even for the price of a better quality set, they make hard going jobs easy. One advantage of a flat bit is that if youre caught without the right size bit you can use a hammer to make one out of anything rodlike. ROFL heh. I've heard it said thats their only advantage. We've probably all found ourselves doing a job unexpectedly without the tools, when it wasnt convenient to go get some. The flat bit is ideal here. A nail, screwdriver shaft, bolt, screw, bit of threaded rod, any old junk. Bang it down at one end and there ya go, one crudely done hole. If it only has to do 2 holes, any old monkey metal will do. Also broken drill bits are simple to turn into flat bits for people that cant figure out how to regrind them as twists. This saves buying a new bit set. Maybe we can have a wot-no-tools faq some day  All drill bits should be removed from an unfinished hole while being spun clockwise, except for augers, and expcet when it has dug right in and wont turn. When drilling in metal near the limit of a my not-so-huge power drill there is a tendency to stall. The only way out then is in reverse. Yes. The remove clockwise when poss is just something newbs need to know. option. I know this from experience. Theyre ideal where few holes are ever needed, as theyre slow, weak, likely to be short lived, but very cheap. There must be a proper name for these? Crappy hole saws? lol, yeah. Sanding discs: use a light stroking action to avoid gauges. Once you Nah, it's really not recommended IME if you care about surface finish. The ball-joint ones give you some chance of success but the rigid ones always dig in, in my experience. They have built in positive feedback. Must admit I gave up using mine years ago - have they changed? I agree theyre not to be recommended. Some people get the hang of them, but many dont. What I was thinking is a fair few of your readers have little in the way of tools or money, and for them a disc sander costs 50p and is sometimes just fine. I did a floor with nowt but a disc sander, and it was fine. Quick to use (with a very coarse fibre disc), and no crescents. Technique is everything, you need to always keep the pressure light enough to avoid the possibility of digging in, _always_ keep it moving, lean the drill over slightly so its the side of the disc thats doing the work, and move it sideways. If you sweep it parallel to the cutting edge, gouges are guaranteed. If for a moment you allow a bit too much pressure on it, ditto. The secret is to use a very coarse fibre disc. IIRC I used 20 or 30 grit. 60 grit paper is a waste of time. "How do I stop my drill-bit from slipping in the chuck?" easy, use less pressure. In general yes, but have you tried drilling out a jammed car steering lock, in situ? When the twist bit catches on a tumbler the slippage is nowt to do with pressure yup. "Cutting off the last foot of cable and rewiring the drill could save you the price of a new drill (do unplug it first!)" yes, but this tends to happen at both ends. If one end has gone, the other end will most likely be in an unsafe state, so the same trick should be done both ends. ok, but probably obvious to anyone that tries the first end. not if it then works, it will probably be unsafe. Broken strands can cause arcing, melting, charring, fire, shorts. One should do both ends if one's bad. By the way, a way to find where a flex conductor is broken is to give the cable a hefty heave - that can snap it at the weak point. and snap other strands in various places I'd expect. I notice you didnt mntion hex shank drills. I use these a lot, theyre a real time and energy saver because the bits can be swapped over by just pulling it out and pushing the new one in. A hex adaptor for the drill is a real time saver. ok, but so is having several drills on the go. Saves loosing the drill-bit you just changed for a different size. 3 are good; for pilot, clearance, and counter-sink. yes, though a) I find one drill with hexes a fair bit easier myself. b) youre writing for readers most of whom have one drill not 3. The downsides a - high torque must be avoided, since the bit is liable to come unstuck from the hex base Is the hex welded on then? I assumed it was pressed onto the rod. Mine look like theyre glued in, and a few have come unstuck. Despite this shortcoming I use them lots, saves much time. NT |
|
#14
|
|||
|
|||
|
On Fri, 16 Sep 2005 00:42:01 +0100, Ian Stirling
wrote: After "Wire brushes". This is one tool that may be particularly handy when combined with a flexible shaft for your drill. With these, it is probably wise to emphasise that both earphone cables and long hair can become tangled in the wirebrush and then it will turn ugly. Rather a few years ago a young lady at a certain educational establishment removed half her scalp in this manner. BTW, a big hand for the team. More excellent stuff. John Schmitt -- Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/ |
|
#15
|
|||
|
|||
|
On Mon, 19 Sep 2005 09:47:19 +0100, in uk.d-i-y "John Schmitt"
wrote: On Fri, 16 Sep 2005 00:42:01 +0100, Ian Stirling wrote: After "Wire brushes". This is one tool that may be particularly handy when combined with a flexible shaft for your drill. With these, it is probably wise to emphasise that both earphone cables and long hair can become tangled in the wirebrush and then it will turn ugly. Rather a few years ago a young lady at a certain educational establishment removed half her scalp in this manner. Ouch!! ok, another one to add then. BTW, a big hand for the team. More excellent stuff. John Schmitt Phil The uk.d-i-y FAQ is at http://www.diyfaq.org.uk/ The Google uk.d-i-y archive is at http://tinyurl.com/65kwq Remove NOSPAM from address to email me |
|
#16
|
|||
|
|||
|
In article ,
Phil Addison wrote: On Mon, 19 Sep 2005 09:47:19 +0100, in uk.d-i-y "John Schmitt" wrote: On Fri, 16 Sep 2005 00:42:01 +0100, Ian Stirling wrote: After "Wire brushes". This is one tool that may be particularly handy when combined with a flexible shaft for your drill. With these, it is probably wise to emphasise that both earphone cables and long hair can become tangled in the wirebrush and then it will turn ugly. Rather a few years ago a young lady at a certain educational establishment removed half her scalp in this manner. Ouch!! ok, another one to add then. Worth adding a note on any description of machines with a (fast) turning action that long hair, ties, bows, jewellry, snooks, &c should be left behind along with the idea of using such machinery whilst tired, drugged, inebriated, or hung-over. Other problems include distractions caused by a nagging spouse, kids (technology teachers have to be carefully trained not to move their concentration in response to endless "please sirs"), and being responsible for anything/anyone else at the same time as operating dangerous machinery. -- John Cartmell john@ followed by finnybank.com 0845 006 8822 Qercus magazine FAX +44 (0)8700-519-527 www.finnybank.com Qercus - the best guide to RISC OS computing |
|
#17
|
|||
|
|||
|
On Mon, 19 Sep 2005 12:26:49 +0100, in uk.d-i-y John Cartmell
wrote: In article , Phil Addison wrote: Ouch!! ok, another one to add then. Worth adding a note on any description of machines with a (fast) turning action that long hair, ties, bows, jewellry, snooks, &c should be left behind along with the idea of using such machinery whilst tired, drugged, inebriated, or hung-over. What is a snook? Or do you mean they should wear a snood? Phil The uk.d-i-y FAQ is at http://www.diyfaq.org.uk/ The Google uk.d-i-y archive is at http://tinyurl.com/65kwq Remove NOSPAM from address to email me |
|
#18
|
|||
|
|||
|
In article , Phil Addison
wrote: On Mon, 19 Sep 2005 12:26:49 +0100, in uk.d-i-y John Cartmell wrote: In article , Phil Addison wrote: Ouch!! ok, another one to add then. Worth adding a note on any description of machines with a (fast) turning action that long hair, ties, bows, jewellry, snooks, &c should be left behind along with the idea of using such machinery whilst tired, drugged, inebriated, or hung-over. What is a snook? Or do you mean they should wear a snood? However spelt they shouldn't wear one! ;-) -- John Cartmell john@ followed by finnybank.com 0845 006 8822 Qercus magazine FAX +44 (0)8700-519-527 www.finnybank.com Qercus - the best guide to RISC OS computing |
|
#19
|
|||
|
|||
|
On Tue, 20 Sep 2005 01:01:26 +0100, in uk.d-i-y John Cartmell
wrote: In article , Phil Addison wrote: On Mon, 19 Sep 2005 12:26:49 +0100, in uk.d-i-y John Cartmell wrote: In article , Phil Addison wrote: Ouch!! ok, another one to add then. Worth adding a note on any description of machines with a (fast) turning action that long hair, ties, bows, jewellry, snooks, &c should be left behind along with the idea of using such machinery whilst tired, drugged, inebriated, or hung-over. What is a snook? Or do you mean they should wear a snood? However spelt they shouldn't wear one! ;-) You've lost me. A snood is what is worn to keep long hair in place. "Snood: A small netlike cap worn by women to keep the hair in place" (dictionary.com), so I've altered it to include that. I have no idea what you mean by a snook. Phil The uk.d-i-y FAQ is at http://www.diyfaq.org.uk/ The Google uk.d-i-y archive is at http://tinyurl.com/65kwq Remove NOSPAM from address to email me |
|
#20
|
|||
|
|||
|
Phil Addison wrote:
I have no idea what you mean by a snook. It's something one cocks, isn't it? |
|
#21
|
|||
|
|||
|
In article , Phil Addison
wrote: On Tue, 20 Sep 2005 01:01:26 +0100, in uk.d-i-y John Cartmell wrote: In article , Phil Addison wrote: On Mon, 19 Sep 2005 12:26:49 +0100, in uk.d-i-y John Cartmell wrote: In article , Phil Addison wrote: Ouch!! ok, another one to add then. Worth adding a note on any description of machines with a (fast) turning action that long hair, ties, bows, jewellry, snooks, &c should be left behind along with the idea of using such machinery whilst tired, drugged, inebriated, or hung-over. What is a snook? Or do you mean they should wear a snood? However spelt they shouldn't wear one! ;-) You've lost me. A snood is what is worn to keep long hair in place. "Snood: A small netlike cap worn by women to keep the hair in place" (dictionary.com), so I've altered it to include that. I have no idea what you mean by a snook. Loose cowl thing - whatever it is called. Browning knew how to name such things ... ;-) -- John Cartmell john@ followed by finnybank.com 0845 006 8822 Qercus magazine FAX +44 (0)8700-519-527 www.finnybank.com Qercus - the best guide to RISC OS computing |
|
#22
|
|||
|
|||
|
On Tue, 20 Sep 2005 09:27:37 +0100, in uk.d-i-y John Cartmell
wrote: In article , Phil Addison wrote: On Tue, 20 Sep 2005 01:01:26 +0100, in uk.d-i-y John Cartmell wrote: In article , Phil Addison wrote: On Mon, 19 Sep 2005 12:26:49 +0100, in uk.d-i-y John Cartmell wrote: In article , Phil Addison wrote: Ouch!! ok, another one to add then. Worth adding a note on any description of machines with a (fast) turning action that long hair, ties, bows, jewellry, snooks, &c should be left behind along with the idea of using such machinery whilst tired, drugged, inebriated, or hung-over. What is a snook? Or do you mean they should wear a snood? However spelt they shouldn't wear one! ;-) You've lost me. A snood is what is worn to keep long hair in place. "Snood: A small netlike cap worn by women to keep the hair in place" (dictionary.com), so I've altered it to include that. I have no idea what you mean by a snook. Loose cowl thing - whatever it is called. Browning knew how to name such things ... ;-) Right, so you do mean a snood, but you said NOT to wear it... duh! Phil The uk.d-i-y FAQ is at http://www.diyfaq.org.uk/ The Google uk.d-i-y archive is at http://tinyurl.com/65kwq Remove NOSPAM from address to email me |
|
#23
|
|||
|
|||
|
In article , Phil Addison
wrote: On Tue, 20 Sep 2005 09:27:37 +0100, in uk.d-i-y John Cartmell wrote: In article , Phil Addison wrote: On Tue, 20 Sep 2005 01:01:26 +0100, in uk.d-i-y John Cartmell wrote: In article , Phil Addison wrote: On Mon, 19 Sep 2005 12:26:49 +0100, in uk.d-i-y John Cartmell wrote: In article , Phil Addison wrote: Ouch!! ok, another one to add then. Worth adding a note on any description of machines with a (fast) turning action that long hair, ties, bows, jewellry, snooks, &c should be left behind along with the idea of using such machinery whilst tired, drugged, inebriated, or hung-over. What is a snook? Or do you mean they should wear a snood? However spelt they shouldn't wear one! ;-) You've lost me. A snood is what is worn to keep long hair in place. "Snood: A small netlike cap worn by women to keep the hair in place" (dictionary.com), so I've altered it to include that. I have no idea what you mean by a snook. Loose cowl thing - whatever it is called. Browning knew how to name such things ... ;-) Right, so you do mean a snood, but you said NOT to wear it... duh! Yes. If it's loose fitting but forms a loop around the neck then it can be very dangerous near moving machinery. -- John Cartmell john@ followed by finnybank.com 0845 006 8822 Qercus magazine FAX +44 (0)8700-519-527 www.finnybank.com Qercus - the best guide to RISC OS computing |
|
#24
|
|||
|
|||
|
Comments seem to have dried up so unless any last minute ones come in, I
will elevate the testing version to the full diyfaq site in the next day or two. The Drilling FAQ has had several additions in the last few days, and minor additions to Normal / Hammer Drills, Sander, and Mitre Saw. See http://www.diyfaq.org.uk/testing/pow...s/drillfaq.htm http://www.diyfaq.org.uk/testing/powertools/drill.htm http://www.diyfaq.org.uk/testing/pow...s/mitresaw.htm http://www.diyfaq.org.uk/testing/powertools/sander.htm New comments are still welcome on broken links, typos, punctuation, grammar, readability, facts, gibberish, content, style etc. ESPECIALLY if they come complete with text to paste in. Phil phil_a (a t) big foot (stop) c om = make obvious corrections On Thu, 15 Sep 2005 21:54:25 GMT, in uk.d-i-y Phil Addison wrote: x-noarchive The "Power Tool FAQ", & updated "Drill-bit and Drilling FAQ" are on the brink of release within our main FAQ. If anyone wants to make any last minute input a pre-release version is at http://www.diyfaq.org.uk/testing/con...tml#powertools Any comments appreciated on broken links, typos, punctuation, grammar, readability, facts, gibberish, content, style etc. Feel free to email me if you have comments you think too trivial to post here. Phil phil_a (a t) big foot (stop) c om = make obvious corrections PS Did I mention content? Phil The uk.d-i-y FAQ is at http://www.diyfaq.org.uk/ The Google uk.d-i-y archive is at http://tinyurl.com/65kwq Remove NOSPAM from address to email me |
|
#25
|
|||
|
|||
|
Phil Addison wrote:
http://www.diyfaq.org.uk/testing/pow...s/drillfaq.htm Typos: in Expansive Bits "an the single cutting flute has a spur..." "an" should be "and" in hole saws: "Professional hole saws blades " few too many plurals there. (in fact we don't really need the "blade" bit IMHO) http://www.diyfaq.org.uk/testing/powertools/drill.htm http://www.diyfaq.org.uk/testing/pow...s/mitresaw.htm http://www.diyfaq.org.uk/testing/powertools/sander.htm Under Rotary Disc in sander types, should the "Technique is Everything" paragraph actually be in the next table where usage is discussed? There is a spurious extra carridge return in "onto which slips a sanding belt" In nailers and staplers: missing capital letter on start of second para. General style sheet comment - any chance of a bit more leading between lines? The table entries are nice and easy to read, but the main body text is rather tightly line spaced. (The CSS definition for BODY seems to be the culprit, currently it has line height specified as 100% rather than "normal" (normal usually being approx 120%)) So: BODY { margin-left: 5%; margin-right: 5%; background: white; color: black; font-size: medium; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal; font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif } -- Cheers, John. /================================================== ===============\ | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------| | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \================================================= ================/ |
|
#26
|
|||
|
|||
|
Phil Addison wrote:
http://www.diyfaq.org.uk/testing/pow...s/drillfaq.htm A trivial style/readability point he "This FAQ is not about Electric Hand-held Drills (for those look here), but is about different types of drill-bits and the actual process of drilling" I'd remove '(for those look here)' and make 'Drills' the hyperlink instead. I keep wondering about this: 'Drilling can be very loud and create loads of dust, so ear defenders and a mask are often essential' Rarely I find, unless its a particularly mean job. I'd say 'sometimes essential' IME masonry drills work fine when theyre blunt. Its only the hardest of workpieces that need a sharp one to work. "Many metals need to be drilled at relatively low speeds in the 300 - 900 rpm range, so many standard mains drills are too fast, the result being an overheated drill-bit" yse, I'd add: the workaround for this is to drill for 10 or 20 seconds, rest to allow cooling, repeat. " point but a flat cutting edge and look a little like a small spade. A sharp flat bit will rapidly cut a pretty clean hole" I've never seen that, always been messy, even with a new drill bit. I'd say: 'Flat bits make messy holes, can be unstable, and can't be used to widen existing holes. Theyre suited to drilling large holes, where other bit types get expensive.' More cut n paste offerings: Blunt bits: Some new bits are so badly ground they wont work, and all bits lose their edge in time. Blunt and broken bits can be reground if you pay sufficient attention to the angles. Regrinding attachments are not needed, and not that helpful. If you want bits for wood and plastic use only, sharper steeper angles will make them perform much better. Just dont use these to drill steel. If you dont succeed at sharpening bits, and not everyone does, its very easy to grind a flattened point on them. They'll then work again, though the performance wont be as good as a sharp twist drill. If you have no sharpening equipment, even an angle grinder can do it, provided you use very light pressure only, and take frequent rests to avoid overheating the bit. With practice a bit can be reground in a minute this way. "Then there are those you find in DIY sheds. these are thin bendy spring steel things that do not quite form a complete circle, and you get a whole set of them mounted on a single wide arbour.These thin floppy ones can cut holes through sheet materials, though not much else. The arbour is always bigger than the cutter so you can drill no deeper than the exposed depth of the blade. The set comes with all the blades mounted on the arbour, but in use they should all be removed except the one required, remembering to do the securing grub-screw up tight" They will drill twice that depth, just tackle the hole from both sides. They will also drill big lumps of wood, eg solid doors, but one must treat them as somewhat fragile. If you push, they buckle and break. "Lubrication: Drilling in metal needs lubrication of the drill-bit, ideally with proper lubricating fluid, but failing that 3-in1 oil is a lot better than nothing. No, it won't just make the drill-bit slip!" suggest: '3 in one or vegetable oil are' I wont mention that margerine, chocolate, and presumably earwax also work. NT PS I wonder about a secondary drill bit FAQ for those that want more depth of information? There are lots of extra tips could go in, but would be time wasting for many readers. |
|
#27
|
|||
|
|||
|
Phil Addison wrote:
http://www.diyfaq.org.uk/testing/powertools/drill.htm "First-time users of SDS drills often a phrase like "hot knife through butter" when searching for words to describe just how much better they are." word missing "The cordless drill is a godsend any time you need a drill and the freedom from a mains flex. It is ideal for screw driving, where the DC motor will provide a much smoother delivery of power than many mains drills" a much smoother delivery of power - much better control "What voltage cordless drill do I want?" Dont forget the many 2.4 and 3.6 tools about. Maybe: 2.4v will only drill a few holes in wood before going flat, or drive a couple of dozen 2" screws home (with pilot hole). It will cope with all but the biggest appliance screws. No use for heavier work. Suited to small light jobs. NT |
|
#28
|
|||
|
|||
|
Thanks once again JR and NT for the detailed notes. I'll try and update
the 'testing' versions with your inputs tonight. Look out for a new time stamp to see when they are done. Phil On 21 Sep 2005 07:54:47 -0700, in uk.d-i-y wrote: Phil Addison wrote: http://www.diyfaq.org.uk/testing/powertools/drill.htm |
|
#29
|
|||
|
|||
|
wrote:
" point but a flat cutting edge and look a little like a small spade. A sharp flat bit will rapidly cut a pretty clean hole" I've never seen that, always been messy, even with a new drill bit. I'd say: 'Flat bits make messy holes, can be unstable, and can't be used to widen existing holes. Theyre suited to drilling large holes, where other bit types get expensive.' I have found that I can get a nice neat hole with flat bits - but the exit is what is usually messy (fixable with a backing block or by drilling from the other side once the spike breakes through) -- Cheers, John. /================================================== ===============\ | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------| | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \================================================= ================/ |
|
#30
|
|||
|
|||
|
meow2222 wrote:
If you have no sharpening equipment, even an angle grinder can do it, provided you use very light pressure only, and take frequent rests to avoid overheating the bit. With practice a bit can be reground in a minute this way. I'm not that keen on this idea - yes, I know it can be done, but there are people who haven't the *faintest* idea, who will try it. I watched an assistant in B&Q on Sunday morning (needed tap washers, so had to go there, unfortunately) advising a chap there with his 3 small boys in tow. The bloke was clueless about what he wanted, or how the things work, or what materials they cut, with what wheel, etc. etc. You get the picture. Him, sharpening a bit on an angle grinder? I hope not! |
|
#31
|
|||
|
|||
|
On 21 Sep 2005 07:54:47 -0700, in uk.d-i-y wrote:
Phil Addison wrote: http://www.diyfaq.org.uk/testing/powertools/drill.htm On Wed, 21 Sep 2005 16:28:29 GMT, in uk.d-i-y Phil Addison wrote: Thanks once again JR and NT for the detailed notes. I'll try and update the 'testing' versions with your inputs tonight. Look out for a new time stamp to see when they are done. And Chris. New versions incorporating most of those comments are now in the 'testing' site. I daresay i've introduced a few more bugs ;-) Phil |
|
#32
|
|||
|
|||
|
Phil Addison wrote:
On 21 Sep 2005 07:54:47 -0700, in uk.d-i-y wrote: Phil Addison wrote: http://www.diyfaq.org.uk/testing/powertools/drill.htm "For basic operations, the budget tools will do pretty much what the high end ones will" Something occurs to me about this. A guy I know had a load of real cheapo power tools for site work, =A310 drills and angle grinders etc, and the tools were dead within a month. It seems the plastic gears were really only capable of lasting if the tool only saw occasional use. So I'm not sure one can say budget will do what decent stuff will. Also there is quite a high failure rate on low end tools. Perhaps add 'though the low end ones often dont last very well' Bear in mind old B&D drills arent cheapskate stuff, theyre maybe the low end of midmarket. Power devil for example is not comparable with B&D. Codless speed controllers arent essential on the lower power tools, eg 2=2E4v. In fact they wouldnt really gain you anything on those. Maybe: This essential feature, - This essential feature (though not on the lowest voltage tools), It could do with someone's experience on soemthing between 2.4 and 12v, and some experience of what one can actually do with a =A325 special. Batteries: higher voltage doesnt just mean more drilling power, it also means a longer work time from each charge. NT |
|
#33
|
|||
|
|||
|
On Thu, 22 Sep 2005 12:31:44 +0100, wrote:
Batteries: higher voltage doesnt just mean more drilling power, it also means a longer work time from each charge. I think it has been said before, but drilling time is related to watt hours in the battery. Drilling any particular hole requires more or less the same amount of energy. Whether the cells are the cheap ones or premium makes a large difference, i.e a factor of about 2. AhxV is where it is at. For any type of cell, the work time is more or less proportional to the volume of the battery. As the higher voltages require multiple cells, the cells become smaller and therefore their Ah rating must necessarily fall. Working on the approximation that each cell in an 18V battery is the volume of an AA cell the present ceiling appears to be in the region of 2600 mAh for NiMH, which if I have done my sums correctly means about 20 minutes at 250W. The load on the drill is of course variable depending on going conditions. John Schmitt. -- Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/ |
|
#34
|
|||
|
|||
|
wrote:
"For basic operations, the budget tools will do pretty much what the high end ones will" Something occurs to me about this. A guy I know had a load of real cheapo power tools for site work, £10 drills and angle grinders etc, and the tools were dead within a month. It seems the plastic gears were really only capable of lasting if the tool only saw occasional use. So I'm not sure one can say budget will do what decent stuff will. Also there is quite a high failure rate on low end tools. Perhaps add 'though the low end ones often dont last very well' The following sentance does say however: "Spending more money will buy you better endurance from the motor, so you can run it longer without rest periods, and it will last longer, better speed controllers, and more robust gearboxes. Bearings will improve and become more impervious to dust - handy if you do much masonry work, or lots of grinding and sanding" Does that not make it clear enough? Codless speed controllers arent essential on the lower power tools, eg 2.4v. In fact they wouldnt really gain you anything on those. I would agree, although in general we have not covered much below 9.6V (what is there is more of an after thought) It could do with someone's experience on soemthing between 2.4 and 12v, and some experience of what one can actually do with a £25 special. I have used an early Skil 2.4V screwdriver. Good for light screwdriving and flatpack assembly, however you typically needed to do the final tightening by hand since it would run out of puff. My first cordless drill was a 7.2V Richmond Tools one. Twin speed box, no speed controller. It used to get frequent use for light screwing and drilling tasks. It was very good for assembling flatpack furniture etc. Also ok for drilling in wood. The gearbox was not that robust however and a snaging spade bit stripped a tooth from a cog once. Limits on performance were sticking a 2" screw into a rawlplug, or about 1.5" into solid timber (if not pre drilled). It got retired when I got a better 9.6V one, however recently has been pressed back into service as a light screwdriver after the happy discovery that the battery pack fits my Makita charger... Hence it is now a 15 min charge rather than 16 hours! Batteries: higher voltage doesnt just mean more drilling power, it also means a longer work time from each charge. Well, that kind of depends on the drain rate, you can use the extra voltage to get extra power and/or extra run time depending on how you design it. -- Cheers, John. /================================================== ===============\ | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------| | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \================================================= ================/ |
|
#35
|
|||
|
|||
|
On 22 Sep 2005 04:31:44 -0700, in uk.d-i-y wrote:
Phil Addison wrote: On 21 Sep 2005 07:54:47 -0700, in uk.d-i-y wrote: Phil Addison wrote: http://www.diyfaq.org.uk/testing/powertools/drill.htm "For basic operations, the budget tools will do pretty much what the high end ones will" Something occurs to me about this. A guy I know had a load of real cheapo power tools for site work, £10 drills and angle grinders etc, and the tools were dead within a month. It seems the plastic gears were really only capable of lasting if the tool only saw occasional use. So I'm not sure one can say budget will do what decent stuff will. Also there is quite a high failure rate on low end tools. Perhaps add 'though the low end ones often dont last very well' added Bear in mind old B&D drills arent cheapskate stuff, theyre maybe the low end of midmarket. Power devil for example is not comparable with B&D. Seems simplest to delete the reference to b&d. Codless speed controllers arent essential on the lower power tools, eg 2.4v. In fact they wouldnt really gain you anything on those. Maybe: This essential feature, - This essential feature (though not on the lowest voltage tools), I've woven this in. It could do with someone's experience on soemthing between 2.4 and 12v, and some experience of what one can actually do with a £25 special. Agreed. Batteries: higher voltage doesnt just mean more drilling power, it also means a longer work time from each charge. Perhaps this sort of detail ought to go into separate FAQs, e.g. Cordless Charger FAQ and Cordless Battery FAQ. Charging is an important topic, only touched on in this faq. There is more information here http://www.shopforpowertools.com/too...batteries.html and much more here (although oriented towards phone batteries) http://www.wppltd.demon.co.uk/WPP/Ba...batteries.html and here http://www.repairfaq.org/ELE/F_NiCd_Battery.html http://www.oldhousejournal.com/magaz...er/index.shtml http://www.toolsofthetrade.net/artic...type=art icle http://www.facilitiesnet.com/ms/article.asp?id=1910 Phil |
|
#36
|
|||
|
|||
|
On Thu, 22 Sep 2005 18:51:25 +0100, in uk.d-i-y John Rumm
wrote: wrote: "For basic operations, the budget tools will do pretty much what the high end ones will" Something occurs to me about this. A guy I know had a load of real cheapo power tools for site work, £10 drills and angle grinders etc, and the tools were dead within a month. It seems the plastic gears were really only capable of lasting if the tool only saw occasional use. So I'm not sure one can say budget will do what decent stuff will. Also there is quite a high failure rate on low end tools. Perhaps add 'though the low end ones often dont last very well' The following sentance does say however: "Spending more money will buy you better endurance from the motor, so you can run it longer without rest periods, and it will last longer, better speed controllers, and more robust gearboxes. Bearings will improve and become more impervious to dust - handy if you do much masonry work, or lots of grinding and sanding" Does that not make it clear enough? Hi John, what do you think of the revised words in that para that I uploaded while you were typing that? I noticed there is no mention of reverse under cordless (only under mains), so took a gamble and added that they all have it. Is that actually true? Codless speed controllers arent essential on the lower power tools, eg 2.4v. In fact they wouldnt really gain you anything on those. I would agree, although in general we have not covered much below 9.6V (what is there is more of an after thought) It could do with someone's experience on soemthing between 2.4 and 12v, and some experience of what one can actually do with a £25 special. I have used an early Skil 2.4V screwdriver. Good for light screwdriving and flatpack assembly, however you typically needed to do the final tightening by hand since it would run out of puff. My first cordless drill was a 7.2V Richmond Tools one. Twin speed box, no speed controller. It used to get frequent use for light screwing and drilling tasks. It was very good for assembling flatpack furniture etc. Also ok for drilling in wood. The gearbox was not that robust however and a snaging spade bit stripped a tooth from a cog once. Limits on performance were sticking a 2" screw into a rawlplug, or about 1.5" into solid timber (if not pre drilled). It got retired when I got a better 9.6V one, however recently has been pressed back into service as a light screwdriver after the happy discovery that the battery pack fits my Makita charger... Hence it is now a 15 min charge rather than 16 hours! Sounds good to me. Phil Phil The uk.d-i-y FAQ is at http://www.diyfaq.org.uk/ The Google uk.d-i-y archive is at http://tinyurl.com/65kwq Remove NOSPAM from address to email me |
|
#37
|
|||
|
|||
|
Phil Addison wrote:
Hi John, what do you think of the revised words in that para that I uploaded while you were typing that? Yup they look ok... the only slight funny is you now have a sentance that says cheap one don't last well, followed by another that says better ones last longer. The latter now seems redundant under the circumstances. ;-) I noticed there is no mention of reverse under cordless (only under mains), so took a gamble and added that they all have it. Is that actually true? Well, I have never seen a cordless drill that does not have a reverse... So I would expect that is a safe statement. It could do with someone's experience on soemthing between 2.4 and 12v, and some experience of what one can actually do with a £25 special. I have used... snip my Makita charger... Hence it is now a 15 min charge rather than 16 hours! Sounds good to me. You may want to massage that a little first - it was not quite in cut'n'paste format! ;-) -- Cheers, John. /================================================== ===============\ | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------| | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \================================================= ================/ |
|
#38
|
|||
|
|||
|
On Thu, 22 Sep 2005 20:10:07 +0100, in uk.d-i-y John Rumm
wrote: Phil Addison wrote: Hi John, what do you think of the revised words in that para that I uploaded while you were typing that? Yup they look ok... the only slight funny is you now have a sentance that says cheap one don't last well, followed by another that says better ones last longer. The latter now seems redundant under the circumstances. ;-) B**ger!! snip my Makita charger... Hence it is now a 15 min charge rather than 16 hours! Sounds good to me. You may want to massage that a little first - it was not quite in cut'n'paste format! ;-) It's more of a pummelling - you may not recognize it ;-) Phil |
|
#39
|
|||
|
|||
|
The extended "Power Tools FAQ" (by John Rumm)
http://www.diyfaq.org.uk/powertools/index.htm and the "Drill-bits and Drilling FAQ" (by John Schmitt) http://www.diyfaq.org.uk/powertools/drillfaq.htm are now live in the main uk.d-i-y FAQ. http://www.diyfaq.org.uk/ Thanks are due to all of you that contributed comments and suggestions to both these FAQs, and indeed to the two Johns for the original articles. I have also made an editing pass over most (but not all!) pages to make the layouts a bit more consistent. If you notice any bad links or other glitches as a result please let me know. Phil The uk.d-i-y FAQ is at http://www.diyfaq.org.uk/ The Google uk.d-i-y archive is at http://tinyurl.com/65kwq Remove NOSPAM from address to email me |
|
#40
|
|||
|
|||
|
Phil Addison wrote:
and the "Drill-bits and Drilling FAQ" (by John Schmitt) http://www.diyfaq.org.uk/powertools/drillfaq.htm Did you mean for the intro to say: "with the piece *of* metal drilling from Dave"? are now live in the main uk.d-i-y FAQ. http://www.diyfaq.org.uk/ OK, I have added a .htaccess to my drafts directory such that all requests will now end up there. I have also made an editing pass over most (but not all!) pages to make the layouts a bit more consistent. If you notice any bad links or other glitches as a result please let me know. (I see you only added 10% to the line height.... is there sucha a thing as typography agrophobia? ;-) -- Cheers, John. /================================================== ===============\ | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------| | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \================================================= ================/ |
Linear Mode
