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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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No nails adhesive & skirting
I am in the process of decorating and laying a laminate floor, to avoid
using beading to cover the expansion gap (tried it in another room but did not like the effect) I have removed the skirting board which will be painted before replacing over the laminate. Rather than nailing it back in position I am thinking of using one of the "no nails" type of adhesive, anybody had any experience using this method with skirting, it is quite hefty measuring 170 x 20mm. Bazza |
#2
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Bazza wrote:
I am in the process of decorating and laying a laminate floor, to avoid using beading to cover the expansion gap (tried it in another room but did not like the effect) I have removed the skirting board which will be painted before replacing over the laminate. Rather than nailing it back in position I am thinking of using one of the "no nails" type of adhesive, anybody had any experience using this method with skirting, it is quite hefty measuring 170 x 20mm. As long as the walls are straight it works very well. If, like mine, they are a bit wobbly you might need the odd nail here and there to hold it while the no-nails goes off. Si |
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"Mungo \"two sheds\" Toadfoot" wrote:
Bazza wrote: I am in the process of decorating and laying a laminate floor, to avoid using beading to cover the expansion gap (tried it in another room but did not like the effect) I have removed the skirting board which will be painted before replacing over the laminate. Rather than nailing it back in position I am thinking of using one of the "no nails" type of adhesive, anybody had any experience using this method with skirting, it is quite hefty measuring 170 x 20mm. As long as the walls are straight it works very well. If, like mine, they are a bit wobbly you might need the odd nail here and there to hold it while the no-nails goes off. What about the poor sod (probably you) who needs to remove it at some time in the future, use screws and wall plugs. -- Chris Green |
#5
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wrote in message ... "Mungo \"two sheds\" Toadfoot" wrote: Bazza wrote: I am in the process of decorating and laying a laminate floor, to avoid using beading to cover the expansion gap (tried it in another room but did not like the effect) I have removed the skirting board which will be painted before replacing over the laminate. Rather than nailing it back in position I am thinking of using one of the "no nails" type of adhesive, anybody had any experience using this method with skirting, it is quite hefty measuring 170 x 20mm. As long as the walls are straight it works very well. If, like mine, they are a bit wobbly you might need the odd nail here and there to hold it while the no-nails goes off. What about the poor sod (probably you) who needs to remove it at some time in the future To do what? -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users. It has removed 5155 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Try www.SPAMfighter.com for free now! |
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On Tue, 31 May 2005 14:23:27 GMT, "Stuart Noble"
wrote: wrote in message ... "Mungo \"two sheds\" Toadfoot" wrote: Bazza wrote: I am in the process of decorating and laying a laminate floor, to avoid using beading to cover the expansion gap (tried it in another room but did not like the effect) I have removed the skirting board which will be painted before replacing over the laminate. Rather than nailing it back in position I am thinking of using one of the "no nails" type of adhesive, anybody had any experience using this method with skirting, it is quite hefty measuring 170 x 20mm. As long as the walls are straight it works very well. If, like mine, they are a bit wobbly you might need the odd nail here and there to hold it while the no-nails goes off. What about the poor sod (probably you) who needs to remove it at some time in the future To do what? To check if it's been nailed or no-nailed of course. -- Regards, Mike Halmarack Drop the EGG to email me. |
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Stuart Noble wrote:
wrote in message ... "Mungo \"two sheds\" Toadfoot" wrote: Bazza wrote: I am in the process of decorating and laying a laminate floor, to avoid using beading to cover the expansion gap (tried it in another room but did not like the effect) I have removed the skirting board which will be painted before replacing over the laminate. Rather than nailing it back in position I am thinking of using one of the "no nails" type of adhesive, anybody had any experience using this method with skirting, it is quite hefty measuring 170 x 20mm. As long as the walls are straight it works very well. If, like mine, they are a bit wobbly you might need the odd nail here and there to hold it while the no-nails goes off. What about the poor sod (probably you) who needs to remove it at some time in the future To do what? The same as the OP has just done? :-) -- Chris Green |
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What about the poor sod (probably you) who needs to remove it at some time in the future To do what? The same as the OP has just done? :-) Then no one will know where the screws are and will end up ripping it off anyway. -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users. It has removed 5159 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Try www.SPAMfighter.com for free now! |
#11
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"Bazza" wrote in message ... I am in the process of decorating and laying a laminate floor, to avoid using beading to cover the expansion gap (tried it in another room but did not like the effect) I have removed the skirting board which will be painted before replacing over the laminate. Rather than nailing it back in position I am thinking of using one of the "no nails" type of adhesive, anybody had any experience using this method with skirting, it is quite hefty measuring 170 x 20mm. I find it works provided you can force it onto the wall - I use lightweight props normally used for holding plasterboard up to the ceiling. |
#12
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#13
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Pufter wrote: Bazza Wrote: I am in the process of decorating and laying a laminate floor, to avoid using beading to cover the expansion gap (tried it in another room but did not like the effect) I have removed the skirting board which will be painted before replacing over the laminate. Rather than nailing it back in position I am thinking of using one of the "no nails" type of adhesive, anybody had any experience using this method with skirting, it is quite hefty measuring 170 x 20mm. Bazza I like no nails when replacing skirting using laminate. Buy a trade pack of the stuff from B&Q - it's cheaper. A word of warning - as it dries it will pull the skirting (or anything else - eg. dado rail) into every slight dip in the wall horizontally resulting in bendy skirting instead of dead straight. This will look awful. As soon as you fit it to the wall, pack out any larger gaps between the skirting & wall with anything that won't compress to stop it being pulled in at these points. Card is better than nothing, but pieces of self adhesive vinyl floor tiles cut into little rectangles are great (go to Poundland) because you can stick 'em together to build up the depth plus the sticky side ensures they dont just drop down the gap. Push them down just below the top of the skirting or use a stanley knife to trim off the excess flush. Wait at least 24 hours for the no nails to go off, then seal along the top with your decorators caulk. No-one will ever know & you'll have nice straight skirting. Screw skirting when using carpet - the pressure of the carpet tucked in can force your skirting off the wall over time otherwise. Use car body filler to fill the holes - cheaper than woodfiller & easier to sand. Thanks for the adhesive shrinkage tip, the original skirting was not plastered behind but fixed using 10mm wood spacers at the points where it was nailed to bring it flush with the plaster,this would result in a nice wavy effect!!! needless to say removing the skirting resulted in a lot of split wood(nails where big buggers when it was built in ,37) which means i will have to fit all new as i cannot get the original design, prob MDF, does this bend as much as wood?. I think the best way may be to plaster down to floor level leaving a 20mm gap at the bottom to conceal the sky/Ethernet/telephone/tv cables which have been tacked onto the skirting over the last 10 years Bazza |
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On Wed, 01 Jun 2005 22:00:48 GMT, Bazza wrote:
lot of split wood(nails where big buggers when it was built in ,37) which means i will have to fit all new as i cannot get the original design, prob MDF, does this bend as much as wood?. more! I think the best way may be to plaster down to floor level leaving a 20mm gap at the bottom to conceal the sky/Ethernet/telephone/tv cables which have been tacked onto the skirting over the last 10 years Bazza Thats a tricky plastering job. I ended up smashing off the plaster up to the height of the top of my new skirting and packing around the back of the skirting by drilling and plugging the wall and then screws can be adjusted to get the perfect positioning to make the mitres meet correctly. YOur hardest job will be getting the mirtres looking pro., not what glue / screws you use. M |
#15
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mark d wrote:
.... snipped YOur hardest job will be getting the mirtres looking pro., not what glue / screws you use. That's because you should be using scribed joints rather than mitres. Dave |
#16
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Bazza wrote:
Thanks for the adhesive shrinkage tip, the original skirting was not plastered behind but fixed using 10mm wood spacers at the points where it was nailed to bring it flush with the plaster,this would result in a nice wavy effect!!! needless to say removing the skirting resulted in a lot of split wood(nails where big buggers when it was built in ,37) which means i will have to fit all new as i cannot get the original design You can get the original design. Clean a short sample of your original, and take it to a timber merchant such as Jewson who have a mill. They will copy it for you for a reasonable charge. |
#17
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That's because you should be using scribed joints rather than mitres. Dave Working on building sites, I notice that the some if not all of the chippy's use Gripfill or similar as well as a nail gun to fix their skirtings(and anything else come to that)! Neither do they seem to scribe the mitres as most of the second fix "timber" is MDF and not as prone to shrinkage as real wood. Now I know that a lot of builders still use proper wood but not in many of the mass produced houses of lower value. My own lounge/hall/dining room skirtings are all adhered to the walls nor have been the mitres been scribed and all are still as tight as the day they were fitted. People may shout and say that you should do it this way or that because that is the way it's always been done but you should also think why. If modern materials are much more stable than timber and don't move what's the point in scribing to compensate for movement that won't happen? Grumble |
#18
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On Thu, 2 Jun 2005 08:15:03 +0000 (UTC), Dave
wrote: mark d wrote: ... snipped YOur hardest job will be getting the mirtres looking pro., not what glue / screws you use. That's because you should be using scribed joints rather than mitres. Dave A scribed joint is a mitre! Plus plenty of rooms have external mitres which can be tricky to match up. |
#19
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mark d wrote:
On Thu, 2 Jun 2005 08:15:03 +0000 (UTC), Dave wrote: mark d wrote: ... snipped YOur hardest job will be getting the mirtres looking pro., not what glue / screws you use. That's because you should be using scribed joints rather than mitres. Dave A scribed joint is a mitre! Plus plenty of rooms have external mitres which can be tricky to match up. I'd always believed that scribing was where the profile of one half was transferred onto the other whereas a mitre was when the internal joint angle was halved - but I accept that I have occasionally been wrong. It sounds as if you're doing the right thing even if we have a terminology difference Dave |
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#21
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On Wed, 01 Jun 2005 22:00:48 GMT, Bazza wrote:
Thanks for the adhesive shrinkage tip, the original skirting was not plastered behind but fixed using 10mm wood spacers at the points where it was nailed to bring it flush with the plaster,this would result in a nice wavy effect!!! needless to say removing the skirting resulted in a lot of split wood(nails where big buggers when it was built in ,37) which means i will have to fit all new as i cannot get the original design, prob MDF, does this bend as much as wood?. Hi, Any chance of gluing it back together? Failing that store it somewhere safe so a future owner with the time/skill needed can swap it back. cheers, Pete. |
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