No nails adhesive & skirting
 

I am in the process of decorating and laying a laminate floor, to avoid
using beading to cover the expansion gap (tried it in another room but
did not like the effect) I have removed the skirting board which will be
painted before replacing over the laminate.
Rather than nailing it back in position I am thinking of using one of
the "no nails" type of adhesive, anybody had any experience using this
method with skirting, it is quite hefty measuring 170 x 20mm.

Bazza

Bazza wrote:
I am in the process of decorating and laying a laminate floor, to
avoid using beading to cover the expansion gap (tried it in another
room but did not like the effect) I have removed the skirting board
which will be painted before replacing over the laminate.
Rather than nailing it back in position I am thinking of using one of
the "no nails" type of adhesive, anybody had any experience using this
method with skirting, it is quite hefty measuring 170 x 20mm.


As long as the walls are straight it works very well. If, like mine, they
are a bit wobbly you might need the odd nail here and there to hold it while
the no-nails goes off.

Si

"Mungo \"two sheds\" Toadfoot" wrote:
Bazza wrote:
I am in the process of decorating and laying a laminate floor, to
avoid using beading to cover the expansion gap (tried it in another
room but did not like the effect) I have removed the skirting board
which will be painted before replacing over the laminate.
Rather than nailing it back in position I am thinking of using one of
the "no nails" type of adhesive, anybody had any experience using this
method with skirting, it is quite hefty measuring 170 x 20mm.


As long as the walls are straight it works very well. If, like mine, they
are a bit wobbly you might need the odd nail here and there to hold it while
the no-nails goes off.

What about the poor sod (probably you) who needs to remove it at some
time in the future, use screws and wall plugs.

--
Chris Green

T N Nurse wrote:
In article , wrote:


"Mungo \"two sheds\" Toadfoot" wrote:

Bazza wrote:

I am in the process of decorating and laying a laminate floor, to
avoid using beading to cover the expansion gap (tried it in another
room but did not like the effect) I have removed the skirting board
which will be painted before replacing over the laminate.
Rather than nailing it back in position I am thinking of using one of
the "no nails" type of adhesive, anybody had any experience using this
method with skirting, it is quite hefty measuring 170 x 20mm.


As long as the walls are straight it works very well. If, like mine, they
are a bit wobbly you might need the odd nail here and there to hold it
while
the no-nails goes off.


What about the poor sod (probably you) who needs to remove it at some
time in the future, use screws and wall plugs.


No More Nails becomes No More Wall. I particularly like the ad which
shows someone putting up a large bookcase with a ton of Unibond's
no-nails variant. I can just imagine them deciding a couple of years
later that they don't like it and ending up with a huge hole in the wall
and a large plastering bill.

BTW, there's a low profile gap 'edging' that you can get to cover
the expansion gap in laminate flooring. It looks way neater than the
ugly quadrant beading. It's essentially an 'L' shape in the material.
The bottom of the 'L' drops into the expansion gap and is glued to
the skirting (hey! no more nails!) and the upright part lies flat over
the remainder of the expansion gap and onto the floor surface. The
floor is free to move under the edging. Cant remember the name but I
fitted it to a bedroom and it looks very unobtrusive.

Thanks for your replies, slight change of tack? lol, having removed the
skirting about 50% has split, big flat iron nails, lots of them, oh well
it does look original and as the house was built in 1937.....it is not
plastered behind the skirting, just a mix of bricks and what looks like
very dark breeze block.
The old skirting was nailed on with wood spacers to bring it in line
with the plaster, is this the best option or is it normal to plaster
down to the floorboards?
Looks like a trip to Wickes for their Torus MDF

Bazza

wrote in message ...
"Mungo \"two sheds\" Toadfoot" wrote:
Bazza wrote:
I am in the process of decorating and laying a laminate floor, to
avoid using beading to cover the expansion gap (tried it in another
room but did not like the effect) I have removed the skirting board
which will be painted before replacing over the laminate.
Rather than nailing it back in position I am thinking of using one of
the "no nails" type of adhesive, anybody had any experience using
this
method with skirting, it is quite hefty measuring 170 x 20mm.


As long as the walls are straight it works very well. If, like mine,
they
are a bit wobbly you might need the odd nail here and there to hold it
while
the no-nails goes off.

What about the poor sod (probably you) who needs to remove it at some
time in the future

To do what?


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On Tue, 31 May 2005 14:23:27 GMT, "Stuart Noble"
wrote:


wrote in message ...
"Mungo \"two sheds\" Toadfoot" wrote:
Bazza wrote:
I am in the process of decorating and laying a laminate floor, to
avoid using beading to cover the expansion gap (tried it in another
room but did not like the effect) I have removed the skirting board
which will be painted before replacing over the laminate.
Rather than nailing it back in position I am thinking of using one of
the "no nails" type of adhesive, anybody had any experience using
this
method with skirting, it is quite hefty measuring 170 x 20mm.


As long as the walls are straight it works very well. If, like mine,
they
are a bit wobbly you might need the odd nail here and there to hold it
while
the no-nails goes off.

What about the poor sod (probably you) who needs to remove it at some
time in the future

To do what?

To check if it's been nailed or no-nailed of course. :)
--
Regards,
Mike Halmarack

Drop the EGG to email me.

Stuart Noble wrote:

wrote in message ...
"Mungo \"two sheds\" Toadfoot" wrote:
Bazza wrote:
I am in the process of decorating and laying a laminate floor, to
avoid using beading to cover the expansion gap (tried it in another
room but did not like the effect) I have removed the skirting board
which will be painted before replacing over the laminate.
Rather than nailing it back in position I am thinking of using one of
the "no nails" type of adhesive, anybody had any experience using
this
method with skirting, it is quite hefty measuring 170 x 20mm.


As long as the walls are straight it works very well. If, like mine,
they
are a bit wobbly you might need the odd nail here and there to hold it
while
the no-nails goes off.

What about the poor sod (probably you) who needs to remove it at some
time in the future

To do what?

The same as the OP has just done? :-)

--
Chris Green

"Mungo \"two sheds\" Toadfoot" wrote:
wrote:
"Mungo \"two sheds\" Toadfoot" wrote:
Bazza wrote:
I am in the process of decorating and laying a laminate floor, to
avoid using beading to cover the expansion gap (tried it in another
room but did not like the effect) I have removed the skirting board
which will be painted before replacing over the laminate.
Rather than nailing it back in position I am thinking of using one
of the "no nails" type of adhesive, anybody had any experience
using this method with skirting, it is quite hefty measuring 170 x
20mm.


As long as the walls are straight it works very well. If, like mine,
they are a bit wobbly you might need the odd nail here and there to
hold it while the no-nails goes off.


What about the poor sod (probably you) who needs to remove it at some
time in the future, use screws and wall plugs.

I have no plans to remove the skirting I've put on my walls. This might
change, of course, but it'll be no worse to remove than the 4" cut nails
someone put the picture rails up with sixty years ago.

.... which is why I suggested screws and wall plugs.

--
Chris Green

What about the poor sod (probably you) who needs to remove it at some
time in the future

To do what?

The same as the OP has just done? :-)

Then no one will know where the screws are and will end up ripping it off
anyway.


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"Bazza" wrote in message
...
I am in the process of decorating and laying a laminate floor, to avoid
using beading to cover the expansion gap (tried it in another room but
did not like the effect) I have removed the skirting board which will be
painted before replacing over the laminate.
Rather than nailing it back in position I am thinking of using one of
the "no nails" type of adhesive, anybody had any experience using this
method with skirting, it is quite hefty measuring 170 x 20mm.


I find it works provided you can force it onto the wall - I use lightweight
props normally used for holding plasterboard up to the ceiling.

I like no nails when replacing skirting using laminate. Buy a trade pack of the stuff from B&Q - it's cheaper. A word of warning - as it dries it will pull the skirting (or anything else - eg. dado rail) into every slight dip in the wall horizontally resulting in bendy skirting instead of dead straight. This will look awful. As soon as you fit it to the wall, pack out any larger gaps between the skirting & wall with anything that won't compress to stop it being pulled in at these points. Card is better than nothing, but pieces of self adhesive vinyl floor tiles cut into little rectangles are great (go to Poundland) because you can stick 'em together to build up the depth plus the sticky side ensures they dont just drop down the gap. Push them down just below the top of the skirting or use a stanley knife to trim off the excess flush. Wait at least 24 hours for the no nails to go off, then seal along the top with your decorators caulk. No-one will ever know & you'll have nice straight skirting. Screw skirting when using carpet - the pressure of the carpet tucked in can force your skirting off the wall over time otherwise. Use car body filler to fill the holes - cheaper than woodfiller & easier to sand.

Pufter wrote:
Bazza Wrote:

I am in the process of decorating and laying a laminate floor, to avoid
using beading to cover the expansion gap (tried it in another room but
did not like the effect) I have removed the skirting board which will
be
painted before replacing over the laminate.
Rather than nailing it back in position I am thinking of using one of
the "no nails" type of adhesive, anybody had any experience using this
method with skirting, it is quite hefty measuring 170 x 20mm.

Bazza

I like no nails when replacing skirting using laminate. Buy a trade
pack of the stuff from B&Q - it's cheaper. A word of warning - as it
dries it will pull the skirting (or anything else - eg. dado rail) into
every slight dip in the wall horizontally resulting in bendy skirting
instead of dead straight. This will look awful. As soon as you fit it
to the wall, pack out any larger gaps between the skirting & wall with
anything that won't compress to stop it being pulled in at these
points. Card is better than nothing, but pieces of self adhesive vinyl
floor tiles cut into little rectangles are great (go to Poundland)
because you can stick 'em together to build up the depth plus the
sticky side ensures they dont just drop down the gap. Push them down
just below the top of the skirting or use a stanley knife to trim off
the excess flush. Wait at least 24 hours for the no nails to go off,
then seal along the top with your decorators caulk. No-one will ever
know & you'll have nice straight skirting. Screw skirting when using
carpet - the pressure of the carpet tucked in can force your skirting
off the wall over time otherwise. Use car body filler to fill the holes
- cheaper than woodfiller & easier to sand.


Thanks for the adhesive shrinkage tip, the original skirting was not
plastered behind but fixed using 10mm wood spacers at the points where
it was nailed to bring it flush with the plaster,this would result in a
nice wavy effect!!! needless to say removing the skirting resulted in a
lot of split wood(nails where big buggers when it was built in ,37)
which means i will have to fit all new as i cannot get the original
design, prob MDF, does this bend as much as wood?.
I think the best way may be to plaster down to floor level leaving a
20mm gap at the bottom to conceal the sky/Ethernet/telephone/tv cables
which have been tacked onto the skirting over the last 10 years

Bazza

On Wed, 01 Jun 2005 22:00:48 GMT, Bazza wrote:




lot of split wood(nails where big buggers when it was built in ,37)
which means i will have to fit all new as i cannot get the original
design, prob MDF, does this bend as much as wood?.

more!

I think the best way may be to plaster down to floor level leaving a
20mm gap at the bottom to conceal the sky/Ethernet/telephone/tv cables
which have been tacked onto the skirting over the last 10 years

Bazza

Thats a tricky plastering job. I ended up smashing off the plaster up
to the height of the top of my new skirting and packing around the
back of the skirting by drilling and plugging the wall and then screws
can be adjusted to get the perfect positioning to make the mitres meet
correctly. YOur hardest job will be getting the mirtres looking pro.,
not what glue / screws you use.


M

mark d wrote:
.... snipped

YOur hardest job will be getting the mirtres looking pro.,
not what glue / screws you use.


That's because you should be using scribed joints rather than mitres.

Dave

Bazza wrote:

Thanks for the adhesive shrinkage tip, the original skirting was not
plastered behind but fixed using 10mm wood spacers at the points where
it was nailed to bring it flush with the plaster,this would result in a
nice wavy effect!!! needless to say removing the skirting resulted in a
lot of split wood(nails where big buggers when it was built in ,37)
which means i will have to fit all new as i cannot get the original
design

You can get the original design. Clean a short sample of your original,
and take it to a timber merchant such as Jewson who have a mill. They
will copy it for you for a reasonable charge.

That's because you should be using scribed joints rather than mitres.

Dave

Working on building sites, I notice that the some if not all of the
chippy's use Gripfill or similar as well as a nail gun to fix their
skirtings(and anything else come to that)! Neither do they seem to
scribe the mitres as most of the second fix "timber" is MDF and not as
prone to shrinkage as real wood. Now I know that a lot of builders still
use proper wood but not in many of the mass produced houses of lower
value. My own lounge/hall/dining room skirtings are all adhered to the
walls nor have been the mitres been scribed and all are still as tight
as the day they were fitted. People may shout and say that you should do
it this way or that because that is the way it's always been done but
you should also think why. If modern materials are much more stable than
timber and don't move what's the point in scribing to compensate for
movement that won't happen?

Grumble

On Thu, 2 Jun 2005 08:15:03 +0000 (UTC), Dave
wrote:

mark d wrote:
... snipped

YOur hardest job will be getting the mirtres looking pro.,
not what glue / screws you use.


That's because you should be using scribed joints rather than mitres.

Dave

A scribed joint is a mitre! Plus plenty of rooms have external mitres
which can be tricky to match up.

mark d wrote:
On Thu, 2 Jun 2005 08:15:03 +0000 (UTC), Dave
wrote:


mark d wrote:
... snipped


YOur hardest job will be getting the mirtres looking pro.,
not what glue / screws you use.


That's because you should be using scribed joints rather than mitres.

Dave


A scribed joint is a mitre! Plus plenty of rooms have external mitres
which can be tricky to match up.



I'd always believed that scribing was where the profile of one half was
transferred onto the other whereas a mitre was when the internal joint
angle was halved - but I accept that I have occasionally been wrong. It
sounds as if you're doing the right thing even if we have a terminology
difference :)

Dave

Ive just fitted Wickes MDF skirting in my conservatory & for the first time scribed the internal corners rather than cut both at 45 degrees (which I did elsewhere in the house). This was miles better & resulted in perfectly aligned corners, whereas before they'd always not meet at 45 degrees & need a squirt of flexible filler up the join (looks OK, but corners are then rounded rather than nice & sharp). External mitres are more difficult to line up perfectly in MDF as there is little give compared to timber. It sounds like a bodge, but I use plastic car body filler (isopen - the good stuff) up each side of the external corner then a bit of fine sandpaper to sand it into a nice sharp corner. Once painted, it looks ace.

On Wed, 01 Jun 2005 22:00:48 GMT, Bazza wrote:

Thanks for the adhesive shrinkage tip, the original skirting was not
plastered behind but fixed using 10mm wood spacers at the points where
it was nailed to bring it flush with the plaster,this would result in a
nice wavy effect!!! needless to say removing the skirting resulted in a
lot of split wood(nails where big buggers when it was built in ,37)
which means i will have to fit all new as i cannot get the original
design, prob MDF, does this bend as much as wood?.

Hi,

Any chance of gluing it back together? Failing that store it somewhere
safe so a future owner with the time/skill needed can swap it back.

cheers,
Pete.