T N Nurse wrote:
In article , wrote:


"Mungo \"two sheds\" Toadfoot" wrote:

Bazza wrote:

I am in the process of decorating and laying a laminate floor, to
avoid using beading to cover the expansion gap (tried it in another
room but did not like the effect) I have removed the skirting board
which will be painted before replacing over the laminate.
Rather than nailing it back in position I am thinking of using one of
the "no nails" type of adhesive, anybody had any experience using this
method with skirting, it is quite hefty measuring 170 x 20mm.


As long as the walls are straight it works very well. If, like mine, they
are a bit wobbly you might need the odd nail here and there to hold it
while
the no-nails goes off.


What about the poor sod (probably you) who needs to remove it at some
time in the future, use screws and wall plugs.


No More Nails becomes No More Wall. I particularly like the ad which
shows someone putting up a large bookcase with a ton of Unibond's
no-nails variant. I can just imagine them deciding a couple of years
later that they don't like it and ending up with a huge hole in the wall
and a large plastering bill.

BTW, there's a low profile gap 'edging' that you can get to cover
the expansion gap in laminate flooring. It looks way neater than the
ugly quadrant beading. It's essentially an 'L' shape in the material.
The bottom of the 'L' drops into the expansion gap and is glued to
the skirting (hey! no more nails!) and the upright part lies flat over
the remainder of the expansion gap and onto the floor surface. The
floor is free to move under the edging. Cant remember the name but I
fitted it to a bedroom and it looks very unobtrusive.

Thanks for your replies, slight change of tack? lol, having removed the
skirting about 50% has split, big flat iron nails, lots of them, oh well
it does look original and as the house was built in 1937.....it is not
plastered behind the skirting, just a mix of bricks and what looks like
very dark breeze block.
The old skirting was nailed on with wood spacers to bring it in line
with the plaster, is this the best option or is it normal to plaster
down to the floorboards?
Looks like a trip to Wickes for their Torus MDF

Bazza