On Mon, 17 Jan 2005 23:20:29 -0800, Tony wrote
(in message ):

Hi,
I have the said drill in fairly good condition, except that the run-out of
the
chuck was terrible. Lately, I have acquired a Sears Rotary Tool Stand.
When I
clamped the Tool Chuck (which was quite good visually) to the Drill Chuck,
the
run-out of the hand drill was so bad, that the whole thing shakes! I want to
disassemble the Hand Drill chuck and see if I can do anything to improve it.
Any suggestion?

Tony
---

Open the chuck as wide as it goes. Look in, there should be a screw head
visible. The end of the motor shaft is tapped and threaded for this screw and
it MAY be left-handed threads. Once this screw is removed you can unscrew the
chuck from the drill. It should be right-hand thread.

On Tue, 18 Jan 2005 07:20:29 GMT, Tony
wrote:

Hi,
I have the said drill in fairly good condition, except that the run-out of the
chuck was terrible. Lately, I have acquired a Sears Rotary Tool Stand. When I
clamped the Tool Chuck (which was quite good visually) to the Drill Chuck, the
run-out of the hand drill was so bad, that the whole thing shakes! I want to
disassemble the Hand Drill chuck and see if I can do anything to improve it.
Any suggestion?

Tony
---

Yep, easy fix for that.

Clean off a spot on your workbench. Wipe down your drill carefully
with WD-40 and set it aside in a secure area.

Place the Sears Rotary Tool Stand in a suitable box.

Install an inexpensive drill press on the now cleared spot on your
bench.

Place the box containing the Sears Rotary Tool Stand in the dumpster.

All better now.


Gunner

"At the core of liberalism is the spoiled child -
miserable, as all spoiled children are, unsatisfied,
demanding, ill-disciplined, despotic and useless.
Liberalism is a philosphy of sniveling brats." -- P.J. O'Rourke

You forgot about sending it to the foundry first . . . . to get a brass
handle fitted so you have something to hang onto when you dump it.
Bugs

Open the chuck as wide as it goes. Look in, there should be a screw head
visible. The end of the motor shaft is tapped and threaded for this screw
and
it MAY be left-handed threads. Once this screw is removed you can unscrew
the
chuck from the drill. It should be right-hand thread.

You may also need to stick an allen key in the chuck (closed as if it were a
drill bit) and smack the allen key's "leg" with a quick blow of a hammer,
etc to get those threads to loosten up... Don't go wild though. If it
doesn't come loose, figure o0ut what your time is worth and consider
replacing the whole unit with something more appropriate for the work being
done.
--


Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.
(800) 871-5022
http://www.autodrill.com
http://www.multi-spindle-heads.com

V8013

On Wed, 19 Jan 2005 02:08:45 GMT, Tony
wrote:



Open the chuck as wide as it goes. Look in, there should be a screw head
visible. The end of the motor shaft is tapped and threaded for this screw and
it MAY be left-handed threads. Once this screw is removed you can unscrew the
chuck from the drill. It should be right-hand thread.

Yes, I saw the screw-head. Unfortunately I do not have a 3/8" (or tad narrower)
straight-across driver blade that I can stick into the hole and turn it. I
tried it with a 1/4" blade but it won't budge a bit. Oh, well.

In all probability, this is a left hand thread.

Anyway, my time does not cost me anything (retired :-), and I want to have a
reasonable tool ready just in case I get a call to work on something in a
friend's house. Sure I do not want to bring my 5-speed drill press along, and
most work involves drilling on the wall.
Any suggestion as to what brand to buy in the same price range (about $40),
that are geared with good torque, variable speed and reversible?

Thanks
Tony

Gerry :-)}
London, Canada

On Wed, 19 Jan 2005 18:07:44 -0800, Tony wrote


Yes, the screw is a Left-hand thread!
There is also a small hole about 3/16" in the casting along the drill
shaft,
that a nail can be put in to lock the drill shalf for chuck removal.
Now I got the Craftman chuck out, and I happened to have a cheapie 1-speed
Harbour Freight 3/8'" drill laying around. I switched the HF chuck into the
Craftman drill, and the runout is greatly improved, to the point that I can
use
the Craftman drill in the drill press stand. Thanks to everyone, including
Gunner and Bugs for the sarcastic comments.
Seriously, if I want to have a "geared" (for torque) multi-speed reversible
hand drill, what would the group recommend?

Tony
---



In the Nov/Dec 2001 issue of Home Shop Machinist there is a good article on
overhauling a Jacobs chuck you might find interesting and useful.

Another article on overhauling a Jacobs chuck at
http://www.beautifuliron.com/jacobs.htm

In the Nov/Dec 2001 issue of Home Shop Machinist there is a good article on
overhauling a Jacobs chuck you might find interesting and useful.

On Thu, 20 Jan 2005 02:07:44 GMT, Tony
wrote:

On Tue, 18 Jan 2005 21:40:54 -0500, Gerald Miller wrote:

On Wed, 19 Jan 2005 02:08:45 GMT, Tony
wrote:



Open the chuck as wide as it goes. Look in, there should be a screw head
visible. The end of the motor shaft is tapped and threaded for this screw and
it MAY be left-handed threads. Once this screw is removed you can unscrew the
chuck from the drill. It should be right-hand thread.

Yes, I saw the screw-head. Unfortunately I do not have a 3/8" (or tad narrower)
straight-across driver blade that I can stick into the hole and turn it. I
tried it with a 1/4" blade but it won't budge a bit. Oh, well.

In all probability, this is a left hand thread.

Anyway, my time does not cost me anything (retired :-), and I want to have a
reasonable tool ready just in case I get a call to work on something in a
friend's house. Sure I do not want to bring my 5-speed drill press along, and
most work involves drilling on the wall.
Any suggestion as to what brand to buy in the same price range (about $40),
that are geared with good torque, variable speed and reversible?

Thanks
Tony

Gerry :-)}
London, Canada

Yes, the screw is a Left-hand thread!
There is also a small hole about 3/16" in the casting along the drill shaft,
that a nail can be put in to lock the drill shalf for chuck removal.
Now I got the Craftman chuck out, and I happened to have a cheapie 1-speed
Harbour Freight 3/8'" drill laying around. I switched the HF chuck into the
Craftman drill, and the runout is greatly improved, to the point that I can use
the Craftman drill in the drill press stand. Thanks to everyone, including
Gunner and Bugs for the sarcastic comments.
Seriously, if I want to have a "geared" (for torque) multi-speed reversible
hand drill, what would the group recommend?

Tony
---

I've got a Ryobi TorqueForce 220 (TFD220VR). It's just a 12 volt job,
but it has dual range gearing. 0-400 and 0-1300 RPM

I also have 2 Craftsman Proffessional drills - 0-600 RPM, 12 volt and
13.2. The craftsman controller seams to provide more torque at low
speeds than the Ryobi, but then again the Craftsman I am looking at
right now and comparing is the 13.2. The 12 volt one isn't here at the
moment.

On Thu, 20 Jan 2005 02:07:44 GMT, Tony
wrote:


Yes, the screw is a Left-hand thread!
There is also a small hole about 3/16" in the casting along the drill shaft,
that a nail can be put in to lock the drill shalf for chuck removal.
Now I got the Craftman chuck out, and I happened to have a cheapie 1-speed
Harbour Freight 3/8'" drill laying around. I switched the HF chuck into the
Craftman drill, and the runout is greatly improved, to the point that I can use
the Craftman drill in the drill press stand. Thanks to everyone, including
Gunner and Bugs for the sarcastic comments.

It wasnt meant to be a sarcastic comment. In 6 months, post to the
group how well this kludge works. I had one of those lashups and hated
it from the first time I used it.

Shrug..time will tell

Gunner

"Gunner, you are the same ridiculous liberal f--k you ever where."
Scipio

Tony wrote:



Anyone has tried the HF 18V variable speed cordless drill (Drill Master)? It
was on sale at our local store for 16.99 (yes, no typo), but I did not get one.
It is 0-900 rpm and has 16 torque settings. Question: How is the torque setting
being "set"? Is it that they just limit the maximum current that can be drawn?
I thought that everyone would love to set it at the maximum torque, No???

That would refer to the slip clutch, most likely--you set it low when
screwing drywall so it doesn't go through and highest for drilling.
"Torque" is an improper term for this, but would correctly apply to the
hi-low switch which gives two gear ranges.

Ken Grunke


--
take da "ma" offa dot com fer eemayl

On Sat, 22 Jan 2005 01:53:34 GMT, Tony
wrote:

While I am still looking for a better hand drill, I am glad that I went
through this chuck removal thing - nothing is better than learning from hands-on
experience. Thanks

Tony

Of course. I keep one of the little 3/8" Chinese/Harbor Freight drill
presses on hand for portable needs. Its light enough and short enough
(bench model) that I can simply carry it out to the welding bench etc
etc. Ive got several good drill presses and of course the mills,
shrug. Its nice to be able to drill a straight hole. I can freehand
pretty true, but having something that I can clamp work into thats
right on the work area is nice.

Respects

Gunner

"At the core of liberalism is the spoiled child -
miserable, as all spoiled children are, unsatisfied,
demanding, ill-disciplined, despotic and useless.
Liberalism is a philosphy of sniveling brats." -- P.J. O'Rourke