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#1
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help with drill chuck
I have a delta benchtop drill press -- works great for the $200 cost.
Lately I noticed that there was a lot of run out on the drill bits. Working my way upward I eventually removed the chuck (at Jt33) and found the spindle? had little to no runout. However I noticed that the taper had two grooves around the circumference and when I looked into the Chuck there were corresponding scratch marks there as well. So what to do -- my recollection is that the taper should be clean and smooth and the chuck is held on by a friction fit. At present the taper on the spindle has rough spots so I figured a bit of sanding while the drill press is running will take care of that -- I figure it is cheaper and easier to buy a new chuck than to try to polish up the inside part but when I went on line it seems that spindles and chucks are sold in sets. Soooo the question is should I get a set, remove the spindle and replace the whole shebang ? or are all the tapers the same and with a little sanding / polishing make the spindle smooth again and use a new chuck ? Anyplace better than another to buy the parts ? Would it be best to just order from delta ? Suggestions appreciated Cheers Eric |
#2
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help with drill chuck
I have a delta benchtop drill press -- works great for the $200 cost.
Lately I noticed that there was a lot of run out on the drill bits. Working my way upward I eventually removed the chuck (at Jt33) and found the spindle? had little to no runout. However I noticed that the taper had two grooves around the circumference and when I looked into the Chuck there were corresponding scratch marks there as well. So what to do -- my recollection is that the taper should be clean and smooth and the chuck is held on by a friction fit. At present the taper on the spindle has rough spots so I figured a bit of sanding while the drill press is running will take care of that -- I figure it is cheaper and easier to buy a new chuck than to try to polish up the inside part but when I went on line it seems that spindles and chucks are sold in sets. Soooo the question is should I get a set, remove the spindle and replace the whole shebang ? or are all the tapers the same and with a little sanding / polishing make the spindle smooth again and use a new chuck ? Anyplace better than another to buy the parts ? Would it be best to just order from delta ? Suggestions appreciated Cheers Eric Rather than sanding the entire spindle stub, just look for any high spots or burrs and take them off with a fine stone. Same with any burrs inside the chuck taper. Aggressive sanding could take off enough metal to prevent the taper from gripping. Clean both surfaces well and force them back together. Light hits with a mallet - but not on the jaws - can help. Some people warm the chuck in an oven to 200 degrees or so, then let it shrink on. John Martin |
#3
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help with drill chuck
I have a delta benchtop drill press -- works great for the $200 cost.
Lately I noticed that there was a lot of run out on the drill bits. Working my way upward I eventually removed the chuck (at Jt33) and found the spindle? had little to no runout. However I noticed that the taper had two grooves around the circumference and when I looked into the Chuck there were corresponding scratch marks there as well. So what to do -- my recollection is that the taper should be clean and smooth and the chuck is held on by a friction fit. At present the taper on the spindle has rough spots so I figured a bit of sanding while the drill press is running will take care of that -- I figure it is cheaper and easier to buy a new chuck than to try to polish up the inside part but when I went on line it seems that spindles and chucks are sold in sets. Soooo the question is should I get a set, remove the spindle and replace the whole shebang ? or are all the tapers the same and with a little sanding / polishing make the spindle smooth again and use a new chuck ? Anyplace better than another to buy the parts ? Would it be best to just order from delta ? Suggestions appreciated Cheers Eric The marks on the spindle and chuck are from the chuck getting spun at some point. Clean up the taper (just remove the burr, don't sand the whole thing) on the spindle with a stone or some sandpaper. Get a taper reamer and clean up the chuck. However, the chucks on these things are pretty junky to start with. You'd be better off buying a quality Jacobs chuck. Grainger, MSC, and Enco all sell them with 33 tapers. GTO(John) |
#4
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help with drill chuck
"SamTheCat" wrote in message ... I have a delta benchtop drill press -- works great for the $200 cost. Lately I noticed that there was a lot of run out on the drill bits. Working my way upward I eventually removed the chuck (at Jt33) and found the spindle? had little to no runout. However I noticed that the taper had two grooves around the circumference and when I looked into the Chuck there were corresponding scratch marks there as well. So what to do -- my recollection is that the taper should be clean and smooth and the chuck is held on by a friction fit. At present the taper on the spindle has rough spots so I figured a bit of sanding while the drill press is running will take care of that -- I figure it is cheaper and easier to buy a new chuck than to try to polish up the inside part but when I went on line it seems that spindles and chucks are sold in sets. Soooo the question is should I get a set, remove the spindle and replace the whole shebang ? or are all the tapers the same and with a little sanding / polishing make the spindle smooth again and use a new chuck ? Anyplace better than another to buy the parts ? Would it be best to just order from delta ? Suggestions appreciated Cheers Eric The socket on a drill spindle is typically a #2 morse taper, the arbor that fits into it is also #2 morse taper, depending on the chuck that may be one of a number of different tapers, typically with a JT (Jacobs Taper) number. In some cases the chuck is screwed to the arbor. In any case the chuck will detach from the arbor and may be marked either with the JT number or TPE. If you examine the arbor carefully you may see the designation but any decent tool merchant would be able to identify it for you. If you intend to replace the spindle on the DP, I think you'll find you're in for a much bigger job than you anticipated, if it is that badly marked it would be easier to touch it up with a reamer, a 2MT reamer from Enco is about $30. The arbor on the chuck can be gently stoned to get rid of the high spots. The socket and arbor should always be cleaned before inserting. Bernard R |
#5
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help with drill chuck
The socket on a drill spindle is typically a #2 morse taper, the arbor that
fits into it is also #2 morse taper, depending on the chuck that may be one of a number of different tapers, typically with a JT (Jacobs Taper) number. In some cases the chuck is screwed to the arbor. In any case the chuck will detach from the arbor and may be marked either with the JT number or TPE. If you examine the arbor carefully you may see the designation but any decent tool merchant would be able to identify it for you. If you intend to replace the spindle on the DP, I think you'll find you're in for a much bigger job than you anticipated, if it is that badly marked it would be easier to touch it up with a reamer, a 2MT reamer from Enco is about $30. The arbor on the chuck can be gently stoned to get rid of the high spots. The socket and arbor should always be cleaned before inserting. Bernard R Small DPs of the kind he's talking about have a JT33 male taper machined right onto the end of the spindle. GTO(John) |
#6
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help with drill chuck
Snip Small DPs of the kind he's talking about have a JT33 male taper machined right onto the end of the spindle. GTO(John) Thanks for the info John. Bernard R |
#7
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help with drill chuck
Thanks all --
spindle is deburred and new Jt33 is on order Cheers "Bernard Randall" wrote in message ... Snip Small DPs of the kind he's talking about have a JT33 male taper machined right onto the end of the spindle. GTO(John) Thanks for the info John. Bernard R |
#8
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help with drill chuck
"SamTheCat" wrote in message ... I have a delta benchtop drill press -- works great for the $200 cost. Lately I noticed that there was a lot of run out on the drill bits. Working my way upward I eventually removed the chuck (at Jt33) and found the spindle? had little to no runout. However I noticed that the taper had two grooves around the circumference and when I looked into the Chuck there were corresponding scratch marks there as well. So what to do -- my recollection is that the taper should be clean and smooth and the chuck is held on by a friction fit. At present the taper on the spindle has rough spots so I figured a bit of sanding while the drill press is running will take care of that -- I figure it is cheaper and easier to buy a new chuck than to try to polish up the inside part but when I went on line it seems that spindles and chucks are sold in sets. Soooo the question is should I get a set, remove the spindle and replace the whole shebang ? or are all the tapers the same and with a little sanding / polishing make the spindle smooth again and use a new chuck ? Anyplace better than another to buy the parts ? Would it be best to just order from delta ? Suggestions appreciated Cheers Eric Common problem Eric.....take a small dremel or similar tool & just grind smooth only the imperfections as lightly as possible on the spindle & the chuck, do not sand the whole surface or you may loose the tapers grip. At some time the grip has released during hard use & caused those corresponding marks in turn causing the taper not to seat flush in the chuck. Your runout should be drastically reduced. -- © Jon Down ® My eBay items currently listed: http://cgi6.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...sort=3&rows=25 |
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