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SamTheCat
 
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Default help with drill chuck

I have a delta benchtop drill press -- works great for the $200 cost.
Lately I noticed that there was a lot of run out on the drill bits. Working
my way upward I eventually removed the chuck (at Jt33) and found the
spindle? had little to no runout. However I noticed that the taper had two
grooves around the circumference and when I looked into the Chuck there were
corresponding scratch marks there as well. So what to do -- my
recollection is that the taper should be clean and smooth and the chuck is
held on by a friction fit. At present the taper on the spindle has rough
spots so I figured a bit of sanding while the drill press is running will
take care of that -- I figure it is cheaper and easier to buy a new chuck
than to try to polish up the inside part but when I went on line it seems
that spindles and chucks are sold in sets.

Soooo the question is should I get a set, remove the spindle and replace the
whole shebang ? or are all the tapers the same and with a little sanding /
polishing make the spindle smooth again and use a new chuck ? Anyplace
better than another to buy the parts ? Would it be best to just order from
delta ?

Suggestions appreciated

Cheers
Eric


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JMartin957
 
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Default help with drill chuck

I have a delta benchtop drill press -- works great for the $200 cost.
Lately I noticed that there was a lot of run out on the drill bits. Working
my way upward I eventually removed the chuck (at Jt33) and found the
spindle? had little to no runout. However I noticed that the taper had two
grooves around the circumference and when I looked into the Chuck there were
corresponding scratch marks there as well. So what to do -- my
recollection is that the taper should be clean and smooth and the chuck is
held on by a friction fit. At present the taper on the spindle has rough
spots so I figured a bit of sanding while the drill press is running will
take care of that -- I figure it is cheaper and easier to buy a new chuck
than to try to polish up the inside part but when I went on line it seems
that spindles and chucks are sold in sets.

Soooo the question is should I get a set, remove the spindle and replace the
whole shebang ? or are all the tapers the same and with a little sanding /
polishing make the spindle smooth again and use a new chuck ? Anyplace
better than another to buy the parts ? Would it be best to just order from
delta ?

Suggestions appreciated

Cheers
Eric


Rather than sanding the entire spindle stub, just look for any high spots or
burrs and take them off with a fine stone. Same with any burrs inside the
chuck taper.

Aggressive sanding could take off enough metal to prevent the taper from
gripping.

Clean both surfaces well and force them back together. Light hits with a
mallet - but not on the jaws - can help. Some people warm the chuck in an oven
to 200 degrees or so, then let it shrink on.

John Martin
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GTO69RA4
 
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Default help with drill chuck

I have a delta benchtop drill press -- works great for the $200 cost.
Lately I noticed that there was a lot of run out on the drill bits. Working
my way upward I eventually removed the chuck (at Jt33) and found the
spindle? had little to no runout. However I noticed that the taper had two
grooves around the circumference and when I looked into the Chuck there were
corresponding scratch marks there as well. So what to do -- my
recollection is that the taper should be clean and smooth and the chuck is
held on by a friction fit. At present the taper on the spindle has rough
spots so I figured a bit of sanding while the drill press is running will
take care of that -- I figure it is cheaper and easier to buy a new chuck
than to try to polish up the inside part but when I went on line it seems
that spindles and chucks are sold in sets.

Soooo the question is should I get a set, remove the spindle and replace the
whole shebang ? or are all the tapers the same and with a little sanding /
polishing make the spindle smooth again and use a new chuck ? Anyplace
better than another to buy the parts ? Would it be best to just order from
delta ?

Suggestions appreciated

Cheers
Eric


The marks on the spindle and chuck are from the chuck getting spun at some
point. Clean up the taper (just remove the burr, don't sand the whole thing) on
the spindle with a stone or some sandpaper. Get a taper reamer and clean up the
chuck.

However, the chucks on these things are pretty junky to start with. You'd be
better off buying a quality Jacobs chuck. Grainger, MSC, and Enco all sell them
with 33 tapers.

GTO(John)
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Bernard Randall
 
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Default help with drill chuck


"SamTheCat" wrote in message
...
I have a delta benchtop drill press -- works great for the $200 cost.
Lately I noticed that there was a lot of run out on the drill bits.

Working
my way upward I eventually removed the chuck (at Jt33) and found the
spindle? had little to no runout. However I noticed that the taper had

two
grooves around the circumference and when I looked into the Chuck there

were
corresponding scratch marks there as well. So what to do -- my
recollection is that the taper should be clean and smooth and the chuck is
held on by a friction fit. At present the taper on the spindle has rough
spots so I figured a bit of sanding while the drill press is running will
take care of that -- I figure it is cheaper and easier to buy a new chuck
than to try to polish up the inside part but when I went on line it seems
that spindles and chucks are sold in sets.

Soooo the question is should I get a set, remove the spindle and replace

the
whole shebang ? or are all the tapers the same and with a little sanding /
polishing make the spindle smooth again and use a new chuck ? Anyplace
better than another to buy the parts ? Would it be best to just order

from
delta ?

Suggestions appreciated

Cheers
Eric



The socket on a drill spindle is typically a #2 morse taper, the arbor that
fits into it is also #2 morse taper, depending on the chuck that may be one
of a number of different tapers, typically with a JT (Jacobs Taper) number.
In some cases the chuck is screwed to the arbor. In any case the chuck will
detach from the arbor and may be marked either with the JT number or TPE.
If you examine the arbor carefully you may see the designation but any
decent tool merchant would be able to identify it for you.

If you intend to replace the spindle on the DP, I think you'll find you're
in for a much bigger job than you anticipated, if it is that badly marked it
would be easier to touch it up with a reamer, a 2MT reamer from Enco is
about $30. The arbor on the chuck can be gently stoned to get rid of the
high spots.

The socket and arbor should always be cleaned before inserting.

Bernard R



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GTO69RA4
 
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Default help with drill chuck

The socket on a drill spindle is typically a #2 morse taper, the arbor that
fits into it is also #2 morse taper, depending on the chuck that may be one
of a number of different tapers, typically with a JT (Jacobs Taper) number.
In some cases the chuck is screwed to the arbor. In any case the chuck will
detach from the arbor and may be marked either with the JT number or TPE.
If you examine the arbor carefully you may see the designation but any
decent tool merchant would be able to identify it for you.

If you intend to replace the spindle on the DP, I think you'll find you're
in for a much bigger job than you anticipated, if it is that badly marked it
would be easier to touch it up with a reamer, a 2MT reamer from Enco is
about $30. The arbor on the chuck can be gently stoned to get rid of the
high spots.

The socket and arbor should always be cleaned before inserting.

Bernard R


Small DPs of the kind he's talking about have a JT33 male taper machined right
onto the end of the spindle.

GTO(John)


  #6   Report Post  
Bernard Randall
 
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Default help with drill chuck


Snip
Small DPs of the kind he's talking about have a JT33 male taper machined

right
onto the end of the spindle.

GTO(John)


Thanks for the info John.

Bernard R


  #7   Report Post  
SamTheCat
 
Posts: n/a
Default help with drill chuck

Thanks all --

spindle is deburred and new Jt33 is on order

Cheers

"Bernard Randall" wrote in message
...

Snip
Small DPs of the kind he's talking about have a JT33 male taper machined

right
onto the end of the spindle.

GTO(John)


Thanks for the info John.

Bernard R




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P©WÉ®T©©LMAN ²ºº
 
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Default help with drill chuck


"SamTheCat" wrote in message
...
I have a delta benchtop drill press -- works great for the $200 cost.
Lately I noticed that there was a lot of run out on the drill bits.

Working
my way upward I eventually removed the chuck (at Jt33) and found the
spindle? had little to no runout. However I noticed that the taper had

two
grooves around the circumference and when I looked into the Chuck there

were
corresponding scratch marks there as well. So what to do -- my
recollection is that the taper should be clean and smooth and the chuck is
held on by a friction fit. At present the taper on the spindle has rough
spots so I figured a bit of sanding while the drill press is running will
take care of that -- I figure it is cheaper and easier to buy a new chuck
than to try to polish up the inside part but when I went on line it seems
that spindles and chucks are sold in sets.

Soooo the question is should I get a set, remove the spindle and replace

the
whole shebang ? or are all the tapers the same and with a little sanding /
polishing make the spindle smooth again and use a new chuck ? Anyplace
better than another to buy the parts ? Would it be best to just order

from
delta ?

Suggestions appreciated

Cheers
Eric


Common problem Eric.....take a small dremel or similar tool & just grind
smooth only the imperfections as lightly as possible on the spindle & the
chuck, do not sand the whole surface or you may loose the tapers grip.
At some time the grip has released during hard use & caused those
corresponding marks in turn causing the taper not to seat flush in the
chuck.
Your runout should be drastically reduced.


--
© Jon Down ®
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