If anyone here owns one of these drill sharpeners, would you share
your experience with the device and what you think of it.

Thanks

Harry C.

Learn to sharpen drills by hand, it's quick, easy and free

--

"Harry Conover" wrote in message
om...
If anyone here owns one of these drill sharpeners, would you share
your experience with the device and what you think of it.

Thanks

Harry C.

Learn to sharpen drills by hand, it's quick, easy and free

No doubt, this is mandatory to know. Do a google search with the author
"teenut" and bionic drill sharpener for the BEST ever discussion of how to
do it.

That said, a drill grinder does a better job of making both flutes the exact
same length and geometry. If one side is different the drill will drill
oversize in most cases. I have a Darex M4 drill grinder that I use for all
drills under 3/4" - just as fast as by hand and does a perfect job. I do
"touch up" the cutting edge by hand or make nonstandard drill point tapers
by hand.

As to the drill doctor, I don't won one. There have been many many posts
with pro and con opinions. My conclusion is that this is a light duty
sharpener, probably worth the price, but don't expect professional results.

Karl

In memoriam...

Subject: drill sharpening FAQ?
From: Robert Bastow
Date: Mon, 11 Oct 1999 07:59:04 GMT

Intro snipped.....

The drill was ground, freehand, on
the FACE of the wheel (not the flat side)...care being taken to keep the
POINT
angle as equal as possible on both sides..I'll tell you how to do THAT in a
moment..

Lets do that now in fact..

Jim, You are dead right about not being able to grind a drill without
mechanical
help! Well here's how you create your own "6 Million Dollar Bionic Darex"
;^)

Let's assume we are going to sharpen a 3/8" diameter, 2MT shank drill..it is
about 8" long (these figures are arbitrary..I just want every one to have
the
same mental picture of what I am describing. We approach the wheel, which
has
been dressed on its face, dead straight across with no grooves..(Ve SHOOT
anyone
ve catch putting grooves in ze drill wheel!!..No Pity..No Prisoners..Ya!
Verdampt!)

(Sorry)...

The drill shank is held firmly in the RIGHT hand...ALL the movement and
control
is imparted by the RIGHT hand. For the purposes of drill grinding, the left
hand
could be...with benefit..a LUMP OF CLAY!!

It is from this "lump of clay" that we fashion the Bionic Darex".

Place your left hand thumb and finger tips LIGHTLY together..Relax the other
three fingers aand let them naturally curl against the palm of your hand.
Let
the drill flute drop into the vee between thumb and fore finger and let the
tip
of the finger "Find" the curve of the flute where it fits comfortably. The
tip
of the thumb rests on the sharp junction ot the land and the flute, about an
inch back from the drill tip.

Now...SQUEEZE HARD!!! YOUCH!...I said it would be easier if it were clay!
8^)
Lift the drill from your fingers...see the GROOVE?...Drop the drill back
in..it
locates within a thou or two! Magic?..Bionic at least! Squeeze again to set
the
groove. You have created a customised drill guide that fits better that
that on
any machine ever built! You can relax your grip now..feel how smoothly the
drill will ride back and forth, guided by the groove you have created for
it.

Place the knuckles of your left hand, LIGHTLY on the ginding wheel tool
rest,
and swing the drill shank, from left to right (using ONLY your right hand)
and
push the drill lengthways though that groove in your fingers back or forth
using
the groove to make the drill twist or "rifle" in your fingers. Do NOT move
your
left hand in any way..it is made of clay remember!

UNTIL....

A) The drill axis is "eyeballed" to be at half the required point angle to
the
wheel face...You can scribe or chalk reference lines on your grinder
benchtop to
help you line this up..at least untill it become almost second nature.

B) The drill axis is dropped JUUUst below horizontal. This will ensure that
your soon to be ground drill lip will start with a "smidgin" of cutting
clearance.

(Ideally, and certainly for a beginner, the grinder rest should be set dead
radially to the wheel center and about half the drill diameter below the
true
center of the wheel)

C) The two cutting edges of the drill..the straight, sharp bits, formed by
the
junction of the flute and the back face (the only bit you grind), should be
horizontally disposed..with the edge uppermost on the side closest to your
left
hand..the othe sharp bit of course, pointing downwards (Jeeze this would be
a
lot easier with a sketch pad)

This I will call the SET or START position!

NOW, move your left hand for the first, last, and ONLY time during th is
whole
exercise. GENTLY ease the cutting edge towards the spinning wheel,
carefully
maintaining all the angles and orientations of the SET position..until the
cutting edge is JUST shy of touching the wheel. If you listen carefully you
will hear the tone of the entrained air, whistling through the narrowing
gap.
You will hear a subtle but distinct change of tone JUST, I mean Just...a
couple
tenths of a thou BEFORE the edge touches the wheel. STOP!!! FREEZE!! DO
NOT
MOVE!!

Now, press the knuckles of your lump of clay..sorry, your left hand FIRMLY
down
onto, into and around the grinding rest..establish a "Groove" on the back of
your hand as well as between your fingers.

We are now ready to grind, Your left hand locked to the drill and grinding
rest
is otherwise quite relaxed..letting the drill slide, twist and tilt wherever
your right hand and the groove in your fingers tell it to go.

The actual grinding is a bit of an anticlimax.

You have previously studied a new drill point, you have read about
clearance,
and cutting angles, and rakes and......

With the RIGHT hand in control, gently, kinda, lean forward... bending or
squeezing your arms hands and body..rather than actually moving them..untill
you
take up that last couple of tenths and the wheel begins to cut. Let it
cut..don't force it, and dont' rush it..it really won't hurt anything if you
take a full minute Per pass per face. YOU and your "Bionic Darex" are
totally
in control of that drill and the wheel..Forget the times when, close to
panic,
you swung the drill wildly past the wheel, hoping to get "the dirty deed"
over
with as quickly as possible.

Take your time, enjoy the moment, THINK about the shape you are trying to
generate. Just the one face is left to "Interpretation"...every other
aspect,angle, facet, what have you...Has ALREADY BEEN TAKEN CARE OF!! and is
locked in place under your control!

The right hand should perfome a "Lower Quadrant sweep" for want of a better
term..An observer behind you would see your hand move from about 17 minutes
past
the hour on a clock face, to roughly 25 minutes past. But it isn't a smooth
arc
of a circle, more a sector of an elipse..You see, as your hand starts to
drop
slowly, you are also rotating the drill in "the groove"..the first third of
the
turn needs to maintain that very slight clearance angle on the cutting edge,
and
not increase it too rapidly.

You need the clearance to cut..But too much at that point will WEAKEN the
edge,
and cause the drill to snatch and chip...So the first part of the rotation
is
ALMOST but not quite, just as though you were grinding a straight cone point
on
the end of your drill. Only as you approach the second third, does your
right
hand start to noticably drop..kinda "Catching Up" on the rotary
motion...increasing the clearance as it does.

In the last third of the rotaion the right hand drops quite rapidly..Thogh
not
enough to catch the OTHER drill lip on the wheel..that lip is coming around
quite rapidly by now.

Above all, take your time, if it helps, move the drill one degree at a time,
and
think ahead what shape or angle the next degree of cutting face
needs...Remember, you have control, and IT ain't going nowhere 'til you
decide.

After a pass on one face, flip the drill in your "Bionic Darex" DO NOT MOVE
THAT LEFT HAND!!, return to SET position and repeat, the pass on the other
face.

Having done a couple of passes on each face..it is now time to check the
results
on our homemade "Optical Comparator"

(Sorry Jim I couldn't resist!!) ;^)

Rest the center hole in back end of the drill shank, on the center point of
the
"Comparator" and use, first one and then the other drill lip to scribe a
light
line on your whitewashed (OK Blue or red dyed) surface.

You will readily see if the lines coincide..if the lips are even..or not, as
the
case may be.

Lets assume they are..Now look directly DOWN on the end of the drill to
check
the clearances. HUH? How can you check radial clearance by looking it
staight
in the face? Surely you need to look at it sideways?

Well no you don't...for once all thos interacting and confusing angle and
faces
and clearances are going to work together in YOUR favor and make what could
be a
tricky bit of metrology..quite simple. While we are looking at the end of
the
drill, we will also check that the POINT ANGLE is correct too!!!

(Ok guys, leave quietly..teenut has finally lost it!!)

No really, trust me. IF you look straight down on the point of a well
sharpened, standard drill, you will see
the two cutting edges, joined by the CHISEL edge which crosses over the web
of
the drill The angle fromed by the chisel edge to each cutting edge, should
be
ABOUT 50 deg...anywhere between 40 and sixty is ok for a first attempt. (I
can
hear the purists and theorists screaming and lighting up their flame
throwers)
But believe me, get it in that ball park and your drill will CUT. If the
angle
is too steep..you don't have enough clearance...negative clearance will give
you
an angle event greater than 90 deg. Too MUCH clerance and the angle will
appear
too shallow!

While looking at the end, check the point angle, How? Look down the axis
of
the drill at the cutting edges. Are they straight? If so, your point is
pretty
close to the right angle (As designed for that drill, by its manufacturer
when
he set the helix angle and the cross section of the flute) If the edges
appear
CONCAVE the point is too flat and if they appear CONVEX, the point is too
"Pointy"

If your drill passes all these tests, which take but a second or two to
perform,
THEN IT WILL CUT..pretty close to size, without chattering, chipping,
overheating, wandering or seizing. I guarantee it!

Hey, thats a pretty good start for the first drill you ever ground! All it
takes now is a bit of practice for it to become second nature and almost as
easy
with a little 'un or a big 'un!

Hey guys!

My apologies for "goin'on" but If it helps just one person to pluck up the
couragre and go hand sharpen his (or Her) first drill, by hand...

Then I hope you will bear with me.

It is late, I am tired and I am not even going to proof or spell check this,

'night all

teenut

----------------------------------------------------------------------------
----

Second that, Karl! I've got the Darex M4 also and as you said it does a
better job than anyone can do by hand. The trouble with sharpening drill
bits by hand is that you don't have enough control to do the small ones
accurately - and generally the small ones require the greatest accuracy.

Bob Swinney
"Karl Townsend" wrote in message
ink.net...

Learn to sharpen drills by hand, it's quick, easy and free

No doubt, this is mandatory to know. Do a google search with the author
"teenut" and bionic drill sharpener for the BEST ever discussion of how to
do it.

That said, a drill grinder does a better job of making both flutes the
exact
same length and geometry. If one side is different the drill will drill
oversize in most cases. I have a Darex M4 drill grinder that I use for all
drills under 3/4" - just as fast as by hand and does a perfect job. I do
"touch up" the cutting edge by hand or make nonstandard drill point tapers
by hand.

As to the drill doctor, I don't won one. There have been many many posts
with pro and con opinions. My conclusion is that this is a light duty
sharpener, probably worth the price, but don't expect professional
results.

Karl

On 29 Mar 2004 19:18:13 -0800, (Harry Conover) wrote:

If anyone here owns one of these drill sharpeners, would you share
your experience with the device and what you think of it.
A friend gave me one and I love it. I only use it for homeowner use
but was able to salvage a ton of old bits and have been pleased with
the results. It's easy to use and for the money - hard to beat.

Let me preface my post by saying: It is better to only have to touch-up a
drill bit by hand. I touch-up every drill just before I use it. I don't
like to do a major re-grind by hand and use a cheap fixture from Snap-on
when I do the 50 ea. 9/32" drills in a multi-head when they get dull. The
little bits, 1/8", get tossed.

--
There are only 10 kinds of people...Those that understand binary and
those that don't.
"Karl Townsend" wrote in message
ink.net...

Learn to sharpen drills by hand, it's quick, easy and free

No doubt, this is mandatory to know. Do a google search with the author
"teenut" and bionic drill sharpener for the BEST ever discussion of how to
do it.

That said, a drill grinder does a better job of making both flutes the
exact
same length and geometry. If one side is different the drill will drill
oversize in most cases. I have a Darex M4 drill grinder that I use for all
drills under 3/4" - just as fast as by hand and does a perfect job. I do
"touch up" the cutting edge by hand or make nonstandard drill point tapers
by hand.

As to the drill doctor, I don't won one. There have been many many posts
with pro and con opinions. My conclusion is that this is a light duty
sharpener, probably worth the price, but don't expect professional
results.

Karl

"Harry Conover" wrote in message
om...
If anyone here owns one of these drill sharpeners, would you share
your experience with the device and what you think of it.

Of course, you know that this is a religious question. I recently bought a
Drill Doctor (model #750) and after a few rough starts, I am completely
satisfied with it. There is a good instruction video, worth watching. The
trick, I learned, was to let the cams do the work and not to go too slowly.
I started my practice with drills at about 1/4" which seems to be about the
easiest to sharpen. There is a definite feel to it -- but it is a hell of
a lot easier to master than sharpening by hand. But then, I have a
excellent hand-sharpener when I need to sharpen anything bigger than
/4" -- my son the machinist. I vote for this tool. But you have to learn
the feel.

Boris

--

-------------------------------------
Boris Beizer Ph.D. Seminars and Consulting
1232 Glenbrook Road on Software Testing and
Huntingdon Valley, PA 19006 Quality Assurance

TEL: 215-572-5580
FAX: 215-886-0144
Email bsquare "at" sprintmail.com

------------------------------------------

It is not a real Darex Darex but it has saved me a bunch on bits. I got
one of the originals but the chuck was made of a plastic that swelled up
after a year or so and was hard to turn. They figured out what was
happening and shipped me a whole new machine with the new design, no
questions asked. Ever since it has worked perfectly.

Harry Conover wrote:

If anyone here owns one of these drill sharpeners, would you share
your experience with the device and what you think of it.

Thanks

Harry C.

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

(Harry Conover) wrote in message . com...
If anyone here owns one of these drill sharpeners, would you share
your experience with the device and what you think of it.

With advancing years and increasing thickness of the glass in front of
my eyes, for all practical purposes, it works, except in the range
that I need it. Most drills from 1/8" up, I have no problems with,
but for the smaller ones, it won't go that small. Nice idea, lousy
execution of the idea. For the larger drills, I usually don't need
it. Darex makes some excellent machines that will do the tiny ones,
but nobody in his right mind is going to buy one for an occasional
drill. Price difference is several magnitudes of order.

It took me longer to read this than it would have for me to sharpen all my dull
bits with my Drill Doctor, especially if I went back and forth reading it along
with actually trying the technique.

I had for years tried to sharpen bits by hand and finally gave up. My dad could
do it, I could never get the hang of it, always ended up with something that
looked like a pencil and drill worse than a pencil.

Now when I find a dull bit I sharpen it, and it works great.

Tom

TeeNut in Heaven wrote:

In memoriam...

Subject: drill sharpening FAQ?
From: Robert Bastow
Date: Mon, 11 Oct 1999 07:59:04 GMT

Intro snipped.....

The drill was ground, freehand, on
the FACE of the wheel (not the flat side)...care being taken to keep the
POINT
angle as equal as possible on both sides..I'll tell you how to do THAT in a
moment..

Lets do that now in fact..

Harry Conover wrote in message
om...
If anyone here owns one of these drill sharpeners, would you share
your experience with the device and what you think of it.

Thanks

Harry C.

Harry, I bought a drill doctor 250 from the home depot on a whim about a
year ago (i think it was around $70). I finally got around to watching the
video (comes with a tutorial video on VHS) and once you get the feel of it,
it works like a charm. I have taken busted hss drill bits and made them
useable again. I recommend the tool. Knowing how to sharpen a drill "the old
fashion way" is great, but why? i dont use a hot plate to heat up my food? I
use a microwave. If someone can make a tool that does a good job with
limited amounts of work and practice, use it. I call it progress. All the
"old school" guys out there will go crazy reading this but if they stopped
and thought of all the improved items they use on a daily basis, they would
agree. So load up your horse and buggy and go get one and enjoy sharp bits
again.
walt

I have 2 of them and they work fine.Drill Doctor is owned by Darex.I use
them for the final grind,up till then they are done by hand on a
grinder.I get many bits from people tossing them out not knowing they
can be resharpened.

Doesn't the stone in the drill doctor ever need to be dressed? This is what
has kept me from buying one.
"ED ROGERS" wrote in message
...
I have 2 of them and they work fine.Drill Doctor is owned by Darex.I use
them for the final grind,up till then they are done by hand on a
grinder.I get many bits from people tossing them out not knowing they
can be resharpened.

What about just using a simple fixture to hold the bit at a given
angle against the grinding wheel?

How well do those work?

I think the Drill Doctor is an interesting product, but I also think
most people could buy several years worth of drill bits for what one
costs.

__________________
Note: To reply, replace the word 'spam' embedded in return address with 'mail'.
N38.6 W121.4

"Tom" wrote in message
...
It took me longer to read this than it would have for me to sharpen all my
dull
bits with my Drill Doctor, especially if I went back and forth reading it
along
with actually trying the technique.

I had for years tried to sharpen bits by hand and finally gave up. My dad
could
do it, I could never get the hang of it, always ended up with something
that
looked like a pencil and drill worse than a pencil.

Now when I find a dull bit I sharpen it, and it works great.


Yup, me too! I gave up and bought one and love it.

Lane

"habbi" wrote in message
...
Doesn't the stone in the drill doctor ever need to be dressed? This is
what
has kept me from buying one.

It's not a stone, but rather a diamond impregnated wheel.

Lane

"Lennie the Lurker" wrote in message
m...
(Harry Conover) wrote in message
. com...
If anyone here owns one of these drill sharpeners, would you share
your experience with the device and what you think of it.

I have a 750 sitting at my feet as I type. It is new in the box. I got it
at a convention here in Las Vegas where they were exhibiting. I got it for
$149. Now that I have heard how good they are, I can't wait to sharpen some
of my dull bits. And to fill in my index. You can buy a lot of bits at
yard sales for dimes and quarters.

Steve

We've got one at work that I made them buy because there were so many people
that just couldn't do it. We've go the one that does up to 3/4", split points,
118 and 135 deg. I'll say that it takes forever to sharpen a drill unlike the
larger Industry drill sharpeners. Takes about 5 min on a 1/2" if it's got wear
on it but it does come out very nice. When your looking at $1.00 per min
machine time (what we charge) it's hard to justify using it unless it's an odd
size drill, or just one we ran out of.

Russ



Russ Wizinsky

www.professorwiz.com
www.metalhobbies.com

"Karl Townsend" wrote in message
ink.net...


I have a Darex M4 drill grinder that I use for all
drills under 3/4" - just as fast as by hand and does a perfect job. I

Does Darex still make this grinder? I couldn't find it on their web site.
How much did it cost?

Thanks,
Scp

"Harry Conover" wrote in message
om...
If anyone here owns one of these drill sharpeners, would you share
your experience with the device and what you think of it.

Thanks

Harry C.

I have the Drill Doctor DD750. It seems to do a good job getting the
correct angles but I have found it hard to get equal lengths on the flutes.
The drills are sharp but they will drill over size holes. Darex doesn't
make the drill doctor anymore. The fit between the chucks and the sleeve is
fairly sloppy.
If you need accurately sharpened drills the drill doctor will not give the
results you need. I think it may be worth the price since most accurate
sharpeners cost much more.

Scp

There is no stone in a Drill Doctor.It is a diamond impregnated steel
wheel at a list price of $20 dollars.Life of the wheel is about 500
drill bits.If you did half-inch bits it probably shortens it
considerably.Big bits I do on a grinder and do the final grind on the
Drill Doctor.You will not regret buying one.It is one tool that does
what they claim.

The Drill Doctor is not made to reform mangled big bits,get it back to
form on a grinder then use the DD.This is like using finishing sandpaper
on a roughing out job.

I paid $150 at an auction. I think they are about $900 new. Still made.

Karl


"Stephen" wrote in message
...

"Karl Townsend" wrote in message
ink.net...


I have a Darex M4 drill grinder that I use for all
drills under 3/4" - just as fast as by hand and does a perfect job. I

Does Darex still make this grinder? I couldn't find it on their web site.
How much did it cost?

Thanks,
Scp

"habbi" wrote in message ...

Habbi, the stone is a diamond. Think a replacement is about $15, but
I could be wrong.

Ed, I have one, but think I paid something closer to $150 for it. My
reference to the better Darex was to mean that the drills I have
trouble with, the drill doctor doesn't help. Anything 3/16 or bigger,
I have no problems, but the collet of the DD doesn't go small enough
for the ones that cause me problems.

Doesn't the stone in the drill doctor ever need to be dressed? This is what
has kept me from buying one.
"ED ROGERS" wrote in message
...
I have 2 of them and they work fine.Drill Doctor is owned by Darex.I use
them for the final grind,up till then they are done by hand on a
grinder.I get many bits from people tossing them out not knowing they
can be resharpened.

I'll second that. I got one for Christmas a year ago, and it's paid for itself
in unneeded trips to the store for a fresh bit. Once you get the hang of it you
can sharpen most bits quickly and get back to work.

On Tue, 30 Mar 2004 16:36:00 GMT, "Boris Beizer" wrote:

||"Harry Conover" wrote in message
.com...
|| If anyone here owns one of these drill sharpeners, would you share
|| your experience with the device and what you think of it.
||
||Of course, you know that this is a religious question. I recently bought a
||Drill Doctor (model #750) and after a few rough starts, I am completely
||satisfied with it. There is a good instruction video, worth watching. The
||trick, I learned, was to let the cams do the work and not to go too slowly.
||I started my practice with drills at about 1/4" which seems to be about the
||easiest to sharpen. There is a definite feel to it -- but it is a hell of
||a lot easier to master than sharpening by hand. But then, I have a
||excellent hand-sharpener when I need to sharpen anything bigger than
||/4" -- my son the machinist. I vote for this tool. But you have to learn
||the feel.
||
||Boris
||
||--
||
||-------------------------------------
||Boris Beizer Ph.D. Seminars and Consulting
||1232 Glenbrook Road on Software Testing and
||Huntingdon Valley, PA 19006 Quality Assurance
||
||TEL: 215-572-5580
||FAX: 215-886-0144
||Email bsquare "at" sprintmail.com
||
||------------------------------------------
||
||

Rex in Fort Worth

I think Darex has discontinued the 'do it yourself' M4. I bought one
about two years ago, and had to conduct some personal negotiations with
Darex to get one of the last ones they still had sitting around on a
shelf somewhere. It works fine, and I'm totally satisfied with it. It's
basically the same as their current M5, but less the grinder itself, and
a few accouterments.

You may well be able to find an M4 still in stock somewhere.

The only drawbacks to the M5 is that you may not need another whole
grinder, and it costs considerably more. The M5 also has provision for
grinding split points (using a separate jig), that the M4 did not include.

Dan Mitchell
==========

Stephen wrote:

"Karl Townsend" wrote in message
ink.net...

I have a Darex M4 drill grinder that I use for all
drills under 3/4" - just as fast as by hand and does a perfect job. I

Does Darex still make this grinder? I couldn't find it on their web site.
How much did it cost?

Thanks,
Scp

That's the Darex M5, not the M4.

The basic drill grinding portion is exactly the SAME, but the M4 was
sold without the bench-grinder and some accessories that come standard
with the M5. With the M4, you had to provide the grinder, a mounting
plate, and likely some adapter-spacers to get everything to line up.
Still, if you HAD the grinder, it was a good deal.

I believe the M4 is now discontinued, but the complete M5 is still offered.

Dan Mitchell
==========

Karl Townsend wrote:

I paid $150 at an auction. I think they are about $900 new. Still made.

Karl

"Stephen" wrote in message
...

"Karl Townsend" wrote in message
ink.net...


I have a Darex M4 drill grinder that I use for all
drills under 3/4" - just as fast as by hand and does a perfect job. I

Does Darex still make this grinder? I couldn't find it on their web site.
How much did it cost?

Thanks,
Scp

"Stephen" wrote in message .. .
"Harry Conover" wrote in message
om...
If anyone here owns one of these drill sharpeners, would you share
your experience with the device and what you think of it.

Thanks

Harry C.

I have the Drill Doctor DD750. It seems to do a good job getting the
correct angles but I have found it hard to get equal lengths on the flutes.
The drills are sharp but they will drill over size holes. Darex doesn't
make the drill doctor anymore. The fit between the chucks and the sleeve is
fairly sloppy.
If you need accurately sharpened drills the drill doctor will not give the
results you need. I think it may be worth the price since most accurate
sharpeners cost much more.

Scp


Given the massive quatity of favorable comments about the Drill
Doctor, I think I'm going to buy one since it sounds like it will fill
my limited needs.

These needs are related to having something like 150 dull bits between
1/8 and 3/8 sitting in my shop drawer for years. I also have numbered
and alphabet drill sets that are so dull as to be useless.

It sound like it will meet my needs.

Thanks guys for your help and advice.

Harry C.

If you need accurately sharpened drills the drill doctor will not give the
results you need. I think it may be worth the price since most accurate
sharpeners cost much more.

It is this accuracy ( equal lips ) that sets the better quality drill
sharpeners apart from the Drill doctor.

BoB Swinney



"Stephen" wrote in message
...

"Harry Conover" wrote in message
om...
If anyone here owns one of these drill sharpeners, would you share
your experience with the device and what you think of it.

Thanks

Harry C.

I have the Drill Doctor DD750. It seems to do a good job getting the
correct angles but I have found it hard to get equal lengths on the
flutes.
The drills are sharp but they will drill over size holes. Darex doesn't
make the drill doctor anymore. The fit between the chucks and the sleeve
is
fairly sloppy.

Scp

I bought one at the shop ( at work ). You have to spend some time getting
used to it, But once you get the hang of it,
it can do an great job. Saves me hundreds of $$.
"Robert Swinney" wrote in message
news
If you need accurately sharpened drills the drill doctor will not give
the
results you need. I think it may be worth the price since most accurate
sharpeners cost much more.

It is this accuracy ( equal lips ) that sets the better quality drill
sharpeners apart from the Drill doctor.

BoB Swinney



"Stephen" wrote in message
...

"Harry Conover" wrote in message
om...
If anyone here owns one of these drill sharpeners, would you share
your experience with the device and what you think of it.

Thanks

Harry C.

I have the Drill Doctor DD750. It seems to do a good job getting the
correct angles but I have found it hard to get equal lengths on the
flutes.
The drills are sharp but they will drill over size holes. Darex doesn't
make the drill doctor anymore. The fit between the chucks and the
sleeve
is
fairly sloppy.

Scp

In article ,
Harry Conover wrote:

Given the massive quatity of favorable comments about the Drill
Doctor, I think I'm going to buy one since it sounds like it will fill
my limited needs.

These needs are related to having something like 150 dull bits between
1/8 and 3/8 sitting in my shop drawer for years. I also have numbered
and alphabet drill sets that are so dull as to be useless.

A couple of comments about the Darex Drill Doctor:

1) The "split-point" feature will not work on smaller drill bits,
e.g. 3/16" and smaller -- and perhaps even 1/4". It seems to
work rather well for the larger bits. I brought mine to a club
meeting along with another member who had no trouble with split
points, and I discovered that he was only doing larger bits,
while I was wanting to do smaller ones. He could do split
points on either of our Drill Doctors with the size of bits
which he normally uses, but not on either machine with the size
of bits which I wanted to split the points on.

2) The smaller the bit, the poorer the grip with the collets, and
perhaps the poorer the centering. I tend to use the Drill
Doctor exclusively for bits larger than 1/4", as I have a very
interesting (and now unfortunately discontinued) sharpening
fixture by DuMore, which will sharpen bits down to #70 -- though
it won't do split points, either.

Good Luck,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

Does anyone have trouble putting relief on their bits with the drill
doctor? Seems like when I sharpen a bit their isn't enough releif to
allow the cutting edge to go into the work so I end up touching the bit
to the bench wheel to add more relief.

Doug


--
Posted via Mailgate.ORG Server - http://www.Mailgate.ORG

On Tue, 6 Apr 2004 11:35:13 +0000 (UTC), "Doug Arthurs"
wrote:

Does anyone have trouble putting relief on their bits with the drill
doctor? Seems like when I sharpen a bit their isn't enough releif to
allow the cutting edge to go into the work so I end up touching the bit
to the bench wheel to add more relief.

Doug

The relief is dictated by the rotational alignment of the bit in the
collet. You want the *point where the heel of the ground face of the
bit meets the edge of the twist* to line up with the *center of the
flats on the collet*. I found that it helped to scribe a line on the
nose of the collet to make alignment checking easier. Depending on the
twist of your bit, you many have to fiddle with the alignment lever on
the machine, or just rotate the bit slightly as needed before
tightening the collet. Not sure if your's is the same, but the manual
for mine has a diagram showing what you're looking for.

Wayne