I've been handed a nice mag-lite with LED
bulb and the batteries leaked and are now
stuck in place. Perhaps this has come up
before here but how can they be removed?
So far I tried soaking them in PFM then
pulling on them with a screw and pliers. No
luck, no movement at all. Before I step it
up a notch what do you say about this? The
bulb end is easily removed and down in there
is a thin snap ring that could be a challenge
to remove. If that comes out perhaps the
batteries can be driven out instead of pulled?
It's a very nice flashlight and worth working on.
phil k.

On Tuesday, January 13, 2015 at 1:21:19 PM UTC-8, Phil Kangas wrote:
I've been handed a nice mag-lite with LED
bulb and the batteries leaked and are now
stuck in place.

Three possible solutions:
(1) find enough label on the batteries to claim flashlight replacement
from the battery manufacturer
(2) make a suitable (wood) set of vice jaws to hold the tube,
and drill out the batteries (or bore, if you have a lathe)
(3) use the LED parts to upgrade an unused filament-lamp
variant

The electrolyte in many modern batteries is alkaline, and it attacks
aluminum alloys (which is what the flashlight is made of). There
might be damage other than 'stuck batteries'.

"whit3rd"
wrote in message
On Tuesday, January 13, 2015 at 1:21:19 PM
UTC-8, Phil Kangas wrote:
I've been handed a nice mag-lite with LED
bulb and the batteries leaked and are now
stuck in place.

Three possible solutions:
(1) find enough label on the batteries to claim
flashlight replacement
from the battery manufacturer
(2) make a suitable (wood) set of vice jaws to
hold the tube,
and drill out the batteries (or bore, if you
have a lathe)
(3) use the LED parts to upgrade an unused
filament-lamp
variant

The electrolyte in many modern batteries is
alkaline, and it attacks
aluminum alloys (which is what the flashlight is
made of). There
might be damage other than 'stuck batteries'.

Yes, these must be alkaline batteries because
there is evidence
of corrosion. How bad is it inside? I'm gonna find
out one way or
another. Perhaps there is a way to rotate the
battery to break it
loose. Hopefully the PFM penetrating oil will do
its thing...

Phil Kangas wrote:
I've been handed a nice mag-lite with LED
bulb and the batteries leaked and are now
stuck in place. Perhaps this has come up
before here but how can they be removed?
So far I tried soaking them in PFM then
pulling on them with a screw and pliers. No
luck, no movement at all. Before I step it
up a notch what do you say about this? The
bulb end is easily removed and down in there
is a thin snap ring that could be a challenge
to remove. If that comes out perhaps the
batteries can be driven out instead of pulled?
It's a very nice flashlight and worth working on.
phil k.




Is this a D or C cell light? Those come apart easily. Take the head off,
pull the bulb, pop the switch cover out. Now take a small allen wrench
and insert it into the hole in the switch. Back the set screw into the
switch. Now turn the switch on. The switch will now slide out the same
direction as the batteries.
In the case of stuck batteries you can use something to push on the
switch and push the stuck batteries out as well.

https://www.takeitapart.com/guide/50


The AA sized LED the switch is a PIA. It is easy to destroy the switch.

--
Steve W.

"Steve W."
wrote in message Phil Kangas wrote:
I've been handed a nice mag-lite with LED
bulb and the batteries leaked and are now
stuck in place. Perhaps this has come up
before here but how can they be removed?
So far I tried soaking them in PFM then
pulling on them with a screw and pliers. No
luck, no movement at all. Before I step it
up a notch what do you say about this? The
bulb end is easily removed and down in there
is a thin snap ring that could be a challenge
to remove. If that comes out perhaps the
batteries can be driven out instead of pulled?
It's a very nice flashlight and worth working
on.
phil k.

Is this a D or C cell light? Those come apart
easily. Take the head off, pull the bulb, pop
the switch cover out. Now take a small allen
wrench and insert it into the hole in the
switch. Back the set screw into the switch. Now
turn the switch on. The switch will now slide
out the same direction as the batteries.
In the case of stuck batteries you can use
something to push on the switch and push the
stuck batteries out as well.

https://www.takeitapart.com/guide/50


The AA sized LED the switch is a PIA. It is easy
to destroy the switch.

--
Steve W.

This is the flashlight I have but mine is an LED
and this is plain bulb.
In this link, there is no snap ring involved and
in mine there is. It
keeps the bulb assembly in place apparently. It
has to come out to
disassemble. But this link is of help to figure
out what to try next! ;)}
btw, this one takes D cells.
Thanks Steve

"Phil Kangas" fired this volley in news:m9453k
:

Perhaps there is a way to rotate the
battery to break it
loose. Hopefully the PFM penetrating oil will do
its thing...


Phil, if you just hog out the contents, then the steel can will be thin
enough to bow in somewhere around its periphery, then to be gripped and
twisted. It will continue to reduce in diameter as you do that until it
finally breaks loose.

Alkalines seldom leak badly like that unless they were left in for half a
decade after dead. They might be zinc-carbons.

In either case, a weak acid like vinegar might help dissolve some of the
attachment. Wouln't use anything stronger, because acids love aluminum
just as much as bases do.

Lloyd

On Tue, 13 Jan 2015 16:21:16 -0500, "Phil Kangas"
wrote:

I've been handed a nice mag-lite with LED
bulb and the batteries leaked and are now
stuck in place. Perhaps this has come up
before here but how can they be removed?
So far I tried soaking them in PFM then
pulling on them with a screw and pliers. No
luck, no movement at all. Before I step it
up a notch what do you say about this? The
bulb end is easily removed and down in there
is a thin snap ring that could be a challenge
to remove.

Definitely get the snap ring out. It's a big clue to disassembly.


If that comes out perhaps the
batteries can be driven out instead of pulled?

Half the time, the switch is contaminated and they don't work again,
anyway. Another quarter of the time, the wiring pulls out or copper
strips bend beyond repair. You have maybe a 25% chance, Phil.

Try a bit of vinegar to remove some of the corrosion and alkaline
residue, Phil. It may or may not harm the switch. All iffy.


It's a very nice flashlight and worth working on.

Are you sure of that? The standard 2-D-cell Maglights are only $19
brand new. That's not very expensive.

They put out 19 lumens and last 10 hours on a set of batteries. That's
very expensive in the long run.

Consider a nice little BRIGHT LED light instead. They last forever on
a set of batteries, are 3-10 times brighter, and give you nice white
light, not that amber incandescent crap. (Gawd, I hate that.)

I left a HF light going for a few days and it was still going at the
end of that time. 3 AAA batteries, 9 LEDs. (Free at HF with coupon.)

Most of my lights are headlamps any more, though. For the house, I'm
building 5Ah SLA batteries into RatSnack boxes, putting a handle on
'em, and lighting them with a pair of lamps. First is a 9W (6W actual
draw) LED spotlight in MR16 case. The other is the room light, a 24
LED (3528 SMDs). A cheap toggle switch chooses 'em. They last for
over a week's worth of dark morning/evening hours between recharges.
They're 12v so they recharge via my tiny solar system.
http://diversifycomm.com/projects/ 4 "searchlight" pics. That was the
original. I've since installed them into the box itself with only the
lens protruding. Much sturdier. The glass mat SLAs usually last me
about a decade in flashlights and UPSes. Great batteries for $13 or
less. Anyway, those are my stay-at-home lights. little 1 and 2 AA or
3 AAA lights work well for portable use. They can be held in your
mouth if you need to do something quickly with both hands, too. Yum!
g

Incandescents are just too inefficient, colored, and $$$$ for me.
The filaments also tend to die when they're dropped.

--
In an industrial society which confuses work and productivity, the
necessity of producing has always been an enemy of the desire to create.
-- Raoul Vaneigem

On 1/13/2015 4:21 PM, Phil Kangas wrote:
I've been handed a nice mag-lite with LED
bulb and the batteries leaked and are now
stuck in place. Perhaps this has come up
before here but how can they be removed?
So far I tried soaking them in PFM then
pulling on them with a screw and pliers. No
luck, no movement at all. Before I step it
up a notch what do you say about this? The
bulb end is easily removed and down in there
is a thin snap ring that could be a challenge
to remove. If that comes out perhaps the
batteries can be driven out instead of pulled?
It's a very nice flashlight and worth working on.

I had this once: nice MagLite, corroded batteries. It was VERY
frustrating! IIRC I would up destroying one battery trying to get it
out and giving up.

I did get the brand name from that battery & wrote them. I got some run
around - their basically saying that they didn't cover such damage &
sending me a coupon for batteries, or some such.`

Bob

Larry Jaques fired this volley in
:


Consider a nice little BRIGHT LED light instead. They last forever on
a set of batteries, are 3-10 times brighter, and give you nice white
light, not that amber incandescent crap. (Gawd, I hate that.)

Larry, you really didn't read his post; right?

Lloyd

On Tue, 13 Jan 2015 16:21:16 -0500, "Phil Kangas"
wrote:

I've been handed a nice mag-lite with LED
bulb and the batteries leaked and are now
stuck in place. Perhaps this has come up
before here but how can they be removed?
So far I tried soaking them in PFM then
pulling on them with a screw and pliers. No
luck, no movement at all. Before I step it
up a notch what do you say about this? The
bulb end is easily removed and down in there
is a thin snap ring that could be a challenge
to remove. If that comes out perhaps the
batteries can be driven out instead of pulled?
It's a very nice flashlight and worth working on.
phil k.


http://maglite.com/support/faq

I do a fair amount of work within a quarter mile of Maglites factory
and have brought in at least a dozen busted maglites of every kind.

They have looked at some of the damage, blinked...shook their heads
and gotten me a replacement or rebuilt the damaged one while I waited.

That includes the flashlight that came off the top of a patrol car at
speeds exceeding 100 mph and bounced along the pavement, the gravel
shoulder and then flew off a cliff at least 60' deep to the rocks at
the bottom.

Their warranty claims that they dont honor bad battery corrosion
issues..its the responsiblity of the battery manufacturer. And it is.

The batteries should never have leaked.

Gunner

"At the core of liberalism is the spoiled child,
miserable, as all spoiled children are, unsatisfied,
demanding, ill-disciplined, despotic and useless.
Liberalism is a philosophy of sniveling brats."
PJ O'Rourke

On Tue, 13 Jan 2015 17:10:23 -0500, "Phil Kangas"
wrote:


"whit3rd"
wrote in message
On Tuesday, January 13, 2015 at 1:21:19 PM
UTC-8, Phil Kangas wrote:
I've been handed a nice mag-lite with LED
bulb and the batteries leaked and are now
stuck in place.

Three possible solutions:
(1) find enough label on the batteries to claim
flashlight replacement
from the battery manufacturer
(2) make a suitable (wood) set of vice jaws to
hold the tube,
and drill out the batteries (or bore, if you
have a lathe)
(3) use the LED parts to upgrade an unused
filament-lamp
variant

The electrolyte in many modern batteries is
alkaline, and it attacks
aluminum alloys (which is what the flashlight is
made of). There
might be damage other than 'stuck batteries'.

Yes, these must be alkaline batteries because
there is evidence
of corrosion. How bad is it inside? I'm gonna find
out one way or
another. Perhaps there is a way to rotate the
battery to break it
loose. Hopefully the PFM penetrating oil will do
its thing...


The inside of the barrel is scarred, but it will still be usable once
the batteries are removed.

Gunner

"At the core of liberalism is the spoiled child,
miserable, as all spoiled children are, unsatisfied,
demanding, ill-disciplined, despotic and useless.
Liberalism is a philosophy of sniveling brats."
PJ O'Rourke

On Tue, 13 Jan 2015 16:21:16 -0500, Phil Kangas wrote:

I've been handed a nice mag-lite with LED bulb and the batteries leaked
and are now stuck in place. Perhaps this has come up before here but how
can they be removed?
So far I tried soaking them in PFM then pulling on them with a screw and
pliers. No luck, no movement at all. Before I step it up a notch what do
you say about this? The bulb end is easily removed and down in there is
a thin snap ring that could be a challenge to remove. If that comes out
perhaps the batteries can be driven out instead of pulled? It's a very
nice flashlight and worth working on.
phil k.

You _did_ try rapping the thing sharply on a wood block, yes? Sometimes
inertia is your friend.

--
www.wescottdesign.com

On Tue, 13 Jan 2015 22:57:45 -0600, Tim Wescott
wrote:

On Tue, 13 Jan 2015 16:21:16 -0500, Phil Kangas wrote:

I've been handed a nice mag-lite with LED bulb and the batteries leaked
and are now stuck in place. Perhaps this has come up before here but how
can they be removed?
So far I tried soaking them in PFM then pulling on them with a screw and
pliers. No luck, no movement at all. Before I step it up a notch what do
you say about this? The bulb end is easily removed and down in there is
a thin snap ring that could be a challenge to remove. If that comes out
perhaps the batteries can be driven out instead of pulled? It's a very
nice flashlight and worth working on.
phil k.

You _did_ try rapping the thing sharply on a wood block, yes? Sometimes
inertia is your friend.

Pull the spring out of the butt cap and then screw the buttcap back in
and SLAM!! it down on the buttcap on something firmly mounted. Like a
piece of plywood on a concrete walkway or anvil

Do it a dozen times and it will often start the batteries moving.
Been there, done that.

Oh..and put some vasiline or silicone grease on every thread you can
find on the flashlite.

Gunner

"At the core of liberalism is the spoiled child,
miserable, as all spoiled children are, unsatisfied,
demanding, ill-disciplined, despotic and useless.
Liberalism is a philosophy of sniveling brats."
PJ O'Rourke

On Tue, 13 Jan 2015 21:10:49 -0600, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

Larry Jaques fired this volley in
:


Consider a nice little BRIGHT LED light instead. They last forever on
a set of batteries, are 3-10 times brighter, and give you nice white
light, not that amber incandescent crap. (Gawd, I hate that.)

Larry, you really didn't read his post; right?

Yes, I did. Every bleedin' word. And?

Did you read my entire post, Lloyd? What confuses you?

--
The reasonable man adapts himself to the world; the unreasonable
one persists in trying to adapt the world to himself. Therefore,
all progress depends on the unreasonable man.
-- George Bernard Shaw

On Tue, 13 Jan 2015 21:03:10 -0800, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Tue, 13 Jan 2015 22:57:45 -0600, Tim Wescott
wrote:

On Tue, 13 Jan 2015 16:21:16 -0500, Phil Kangas wrote:

I've been handed a nice mag-lite with LED bulb and the batteries leaked
and are now stuck in place. Perhaps this has come up before here but how
can they be removed?
So far I tried soaking them in PFM then pulling on them with a screw and
pliers. No luck, no movement at all. Before I step it up a notch what do
you say about this? The bulb end is easily removed and down in there is
a thin snap ring that could be a challenge to remove. If that comes out
perhaps the batteries can be driven out instead of pulled? It's a very
nice flashlight and worth working on.
phil k.

You _did_ try rapping the thing sharply on a wood block, yes? Sometimes
inertia is your friend.

Pull the spring out of the butt cap and then screw the buttcap back in
and SLAM!! it down on the buttcap on something firmly mounted. Like a
piece of plywood on a concrete walkway or anvil

Do it a dozen times and it will often start the batteries moving.
Been there, done that.

Oh..and put some vasiline or silicone grease on every thread you can
find on the flashlite.

Grease is an excellent idea. On a similar theme, I've been replacing
corroded light bulbs (with broken bulbs) in 2 different ladies' houses
recently and have used a skosh of either white lithium or vaseline on
the sockets and bases I'm putting the bulbs in. They won't have
another broken bulb again and all those gawdawful incans will be easy
to change from now on. One lady got so rambunctious that she ripped
up the socket base, too. This on a ladder 10' up in her house. She
had the concept OK, but you''re only supposed to put the needle nose
pliers on the broken bulb base and twist. She got both. Aluminum on
aluminum creates a sticky problem.

--
The reasonable man adapts himself to the world; the unreasonable
one persists in trying to adapt the world to himself. Therefore,
all progress depends on the unreasonable man.
-- George Bernard Shaw

Larry Jaques fired this volley in
:

Did you read my entire post, Lloyd? What confuses you?


So... he says he has an LED flashlight ("I've been handed a nice mag-lite
with LED bulb").

And you tell him to ditch it and get an LED flashlight ("Consider a nice
little BRIGHT LED light instead. They last forever on a set of
batteries, are 3-10 times brighter, and give you nice white light, not
that amber incandescent crap. (Gawd, I hate that.))"

Which one of his posts WAS it that you read "Every Bleedin' word" of.
Sure as hell wasn't this one about the flashlight...?

LLoyd

On Wednesday, January 14, 2015 at 1:02:03 AM UTC-5, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Tue, 13 Jan 2015 21:10:49 -0600, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

Larry Jaques fired this volley in
:


Consider a nice little BRIGHT LED light instead. They last forever on
a set of batteries, are 3-10 times brighter, and give you nice white
light, not that amber incandescent crap. (Gawd, I hate that.)

Larry, you really didn't read his post; right?

Yes, I did. Every bleedin' word. And?

Did you read my entire post, Lloyd? What
confuses you?

Its confusing why you don't just tell Phil to quit pack-ratting it, throw the age-old "nice" piece of crud in the trash and get a 99 cent LED flashlight that (like Lloyd says) can run forever on a set of batteries and has better light to see by.

fired this volley in
:

On Wednesday, January 14, 2015 at 1:02:03 AM UTC-5, Larry Jaques
wrote:
On Tue, 13 Jan 2015 21:10:49 -0600, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

Larry Jaques fired this volley
in :


Consider a nice little BRIGHT LED light instead. They last
forever on a set of batteries, are 3-10 times brighter, and give
you nice white light, not that amber incandescent crap. (Gawd, I
hate that.)

Larry, you really didn't read his post; right?

Yes, I did. Every bleedin' word. And?

Did you read my entire post, Lloyd? What
confuses you?

Its confusing why you don't just tell Phil to quit pack-ratting it,
throw the age-old "nice" piece of crud in the trash and get a 99 cent
LED flashlight that (like Lloyd says) can run forever on a set of
batteries and has better light to see by.


I think you missed the attributions! I did not recommend that, Larry
did, AFTER being told that the flashlight he had WAS one of those nice,
bright-white LED types.

Phil said he had an LED flashlight. Larry told him to ditch it, and get
an LED flashlight.


LLoyd

On Wednesday, January 14, 2015 at 9:04:07 AM UTC-5, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:
fired this volley in
:

On Wednesday, January 14, 2015 at 1:02:03 AM UTC-5, Larry Jaques
wrote:
On Tue, 13 Jan 2015 21:10:49 -0600, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

Larry Jaques fired this volley
in :


Consider a nice little BRIGHT LED light instead. They last
forever on a set of batteries, are 3-10 times brighter, and give
you nice white light, not that amber incandescent crap. (Gawd, I
hate that.)

Larry, you really didn't read his post; right?

Yes, I did. Every bleedin' word. And?

Did you read my entire post, Lloyd? What
confuses you?

Its confusing why you don't just tell Phil to quit pack-ratting it,
throw the age-old "nice" piece of crud in the trash and get a 99 cent
LED flashlight that (like Lloyd says) can run forever on a set of
batteries and has better light to see by.


I think you missed the attributions! I did not recommend that, Larry
did, AFTER being told that the flashlight he had WAS one of those nice,
bright-white LED types.

Phil said he had an LED flashlight. Larry told him to ditch it, and get
an LED flashlight.

Right. I just wasn't certain that it was the result of yet, another one of those 99 cent store operations. Maybe the batteries, too.

I think somebody was having pancakes with plenty of butter/syrup/molasses and it got to close to the device, but I dont' know. Who knows? It sounds like he should just throw the whole thing out and start over.

(but STILL, you get what you pay for)

On Wed, 14 Jan 2015 07:37:24 -0600, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

Larry Jaques fired this volley in
:

Did you read my entire post, Lloyd? What confuses you?


So... he says he has an LED flashlight ("I've been handed a nice mag-lite
with LED bulb").

Dayum. Missed it, I did. Mea culpa.


And you tell him to ditch it and get an LED flashlight ("Consider a nice
little BRIGHT LED light instead. They last forever on a set of
batteries, are 3-10 times brighter, and give you nice white light, not
that amber incandescent crap. (Gawd, I hate that.))"

Which one of his posts WAS it that you read "Every Bleedin' word" of.
Sure as hell wasn't this one about the flashlight...?

I reread that last night and missed it yet again! blush
It's my bifocals, I tell ya. They hit the carriage return too soon.

--
The reasonable man adapts himself to the world; the unreasonable
one persists in trying to adapt the world to himself. Therefore,
all progress depends on the unreasonable man.
-- George Bernard Shaw

"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
On Tue, 13 Jan 2015 22:57:45 -0600, Tim Wescott

wrote:

On Tue, 13 Jan 2015 16:21:16 -0500, Phil Kangas
wrote:

I've been handed a nice mag-lite with LED bulb
and the batteries leaked
and are now stuck in place. Perhaps this has
come up before here but how
can they be removed?
So far I tried soaking them in PFM then
pulling on them with a screw and
pliers. No luck, no movement at all. Before I
step it up a notch what do
you say about this? The bulb end is easily
removed and down in there is
a thin snap ring that could be a challenge to
remove. If that comes out
perhaps the batteries can be driven out
instead of pulled? It's a very
nice flashlight and worth working on.
phil k.

You _did_ try rapping the thing sharply on a
wood block, yes? Sometimes
inertia is your friend.

Pull the spring out of the butt cap and then
screw the buttcap back in
and SLAM!! it down on the buttcap on something
firmly mounted. Like a
piece of plywood on a concrete walkway or anvil


SLAM! Hah! That could be an enjoyable procedure to
try in case
the easier attempts don't work. heh heh ... I'll
be back in the shop
today and have another go at it thanks to the
advice offered here.
I like to start politely and respectfully then
bump it up a notch at a
time till the SLAMMING satisfies me. ;)}
phil k.


Do it a dozen times and it will often start the
batteries moving.
Been there, done that.

Oh..and put some vasiline or silicone grease on
every thread you can
find on the flashlite.

Gunner

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...

Grease is an excellent idea. On a similar theme, I've been replacing
corroded light bulbs (with broken bulbs) in 2 different ladies' houses
recently and have used a skosh of either white lithium or vaseline on
the sockets and bases I'm putting the bulbs in. They won't have
another broken bulb again and all those gawdawful incans will be easy
to change from now on. One lady got so rambunctious that she ripped
up the socket base, too. This on a ladder 10' up in her house. She
had the concept OK, but you''re only supposed to put the needle nose
pliers on the broken bulb base and twist. She got both. Aluminum on
aluminum creates a sticky problem.


I use NO-OX grease, the stuff you use for Al wire. Mostly because I bought a
giant tube of it 20 years ago and it's still in my electric toolkit and
nearly full.

Somewhere, decades ago, they started making the bases on cheap bulbs out of
aluminum.
This wasn't a problem because they made the screw shell in the socket out of
brass or nickle.

Then they started cheaping out on the sockets too. Al on Al (particularly in
a base up configuration) is a recipe for problems.

Paul K. Dickman

On Wed, 14 Jan 2015 10:45:56 -0600, "Paul K. Dickman"
wrote:


"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
.. .

Grease is an excellent idea. On a similar theme, I've been replacing
corroded light bulbs (with broken bulbs) in 2 different ladies' houses
recently and have used a skosh of either white lithium or vaseline on
the sockets and bases I'm putting the bulbs in. They won't have
another broken bulb again and all those gawdawful incans will be easy
to change from now on. One lady got so rambunctious that she ripped
up the socket base, too. This on a ladder 10' up in her house. She
had the concept OK, but you''re only supposed to put the needle nose
pliers on the broken bulb base and twist. She got both. Aluminum on
aluminum creates a sticky problem.


I use NO-OX grease, the stuff you use for Al wire. Mostly because I bought a
giant tube of it 20 years ago and it's still in my electric toolkit and
nearly full.

Somewhere, decades ago, they started making the bases on cheap bulbs out of
aluminum.
This wasn't a problem because they made the screw shell in the socket out of
brass or nickle.

Then they started cheaping out on the sockets too. Al on Al (particularly in
a base up configuration) is a recipe for problems.

Paul K. Dickman

Not a problem with the lights at our church - the bulbs have not been
lasting long enough for corrosion to set in!!! In the building 16
months and I've replaced half the bulbs already (and that's with less
than 6 hours a week use!!!)

wrote:
On Wed, 14 Jan 2015 10:45:56 -0600, "Paul K. Dickman"
wrote:

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
Grease is an excellent idea. On a similar theme, I've been replacing
corroded light bulbs (with broken bulbs) in 2 different ladies' houses
recently and have used a skosh of either white lithium or vaseline on
the sockets and bases I'm putting the bulbs in. They won't have
another broken bulb again and all those gawdawful incans will be easy
to change from now on. One lady got so rambunctious that she ripped
up the socket base, too. This on a ladder 10' up in her house. She
had the concept OK, but you''re only supposed to put the needle nose
pliers on the broken bulb base and twist. She got both. Aluminum on
aluminum creates a sticky problem.

I use NO-OX grease, the stuff you use for Al wire. Mostly because I bought a
giant tube of it 20 years ago and it's still in my electric toolkit and
nearly full.

Somewhere, decades ago, they started making the bases on cheap bulbs out of
aluminum.
This wasn't a problem because they made the screw shell in the socket out of
brass or nickle.

Then they started cheaping out on the sockets too. Al on Al (particularly in
a base up configuration) is a recipe for problems.

Paul K. Dickman

Not a problem with the lights at our church - the bulbs have not been
lasting long enough for corrosion to set in!!! In the building 16
months and I've replaced half the bulbs already (and that's with less
than 6 hours a week use!!!)

What make are those bulbs???????

Switch to LED, at the rate you're swapping bulbs they would pay for
themselves in about a year!

--
Steve W.

On Wed, 14 Jan 2015 16:32:26 -0500, "Steve W."
wrote:

wrote:
On Wed, 14 Jan 2015 10:45:56 -0600, "Paul K. Dickman"
wrote:

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
Grease is an excellent idea. On a similar theme, I've been replacing
corroded light bulbs (with broken bulbs) in 2 different ladies' houses
recently and have used a skosh of either white lithium or vaseline on
the sockets and bases I'm putting the bulbs in. They won't have
another broken bulb again and all those gawdawful incans will be easy
to change from now on. One lady got so rambunctious that she ripped
up the socket base, too. This on a ladder 10' up in her house. She
had the concept OK, but you''re only supposed to put the needle nose
pliers on the broken bulb base and twist. She got both. Aluminum on
aluminum creates a sticky problem.

I use NO-OX grease, the stuff you use for Al wire. Mostly because I bought a
giant tube of it 20 years ago and it's still in my electric toolkit and
nearly full.

Somewhere, decades ago, they started making the bases on cheap bulbs out of
aluminum.
This wasn't a problem because they made the screw shell in the socket out of
brass or nickle.

Then they started cheaping out on the sockets too. Al on Al (particularly in
a base up configuration) is a recipe for problems.

Paul K. Dickman

Not a problem with the lights at our church - the bulbs have not been
lasting long enough for corrosion to set in!!! In the building 16
months and I've replaced half the bulbs already (and that's with less
than 6 hours a week use!!!)

What make are those bulbs???????

Switch to LED, at the rate you're swapping bulbs they would pay for
themselves in about a year!
There were different brands - and so far I have not replaced one
twice yet - we are planning on going to dimmable LEDs when the price
of 100 watt equivalents comes down a bit, and they have a track
record. A lot of LEDs are not lasting too well either - and they NEED
to be dimmable.

Thankfully I can change all of them with the "swizzle stick" - don't
need a ladder.

Coincidentally, my thermostat just stopped, with dead and corroded
batteries. I emailed Duracell, quoting their guarantee: "Should any
device be damaged due to a battery defect, we will repair or replace it
at our option."

They started to weasel in their first we-have-received-your-letter reply:
"We’d also like to share that there are many things that can cause
batteries to leak /vent. Some of the more common causes include exposure
to extreme temperatures, moisture, where and how batteries are stored,
and/or becoming shorted out by other batteries or metals; trying to
recharge an alkaline battery. Research also shows that mixing old and
new batteries and different types of cells are also common causes of
battery outflow."
In other words "It's almost certainly your fault".

I'm supposed to call them and "have their package handy". Yeah, right -
I have the package that they came in! I have a bit of
obsessive-compulsive in me, but I don't save old battery packages.

Sheesh.

Bob

"Phil Kangas"
wrote in message
"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
On Tue, 13 Jan 2015 22:57:45 -0600, Tim Wescott

wrote:

On Tue, 13 Jan 2015 16:21:16 -0500, Phil Kangas
wrote:

I've been handed a nice mag-lite with LED
bulb and the batteries leaked
and are now stuck in place. Perhaps this has
come up before here but how
can they be removed?
So far I tried soaking them in PFM then
pulling on them with a screw and
pliers. No luck, no movement at all. Before I
step it up a notch what do
you say about this? The bulb end is easily
removed and down in there is
a thin snap ring that could be a challenge to
remove. If that comes out
perhaps the batteries can be driven out
instead of pulled? It's a very
nice flashlight and worth working on.
phil k.

You _did_ try rapping the thing sharply on a
wood block, yes? Sometimes
inertia is your friend.

Pull the spring out of the butt cap and then
screw the buttcap back in
and SLAM!! it down on the buttcap on something
firmly mounted. Like a
piece of plywood on a concrete walkway or anvil


SLAM! Hah! That could be an enjoyable procedure
to try in case
the easier attempts don't work. heh heh ... I'll
be back in the shop
today and have another go at it thanks to the
advice offered here.
I like to start politely and respectfully then
bump it up a notch at a
time till the SLAMMING satisfies me. ;)}
phil k.


Do it a dozen times and it will often start the
batteries moving.
Been there, done that.

Oh..and put some vasiline or silicone grease on
every thread you can
find on the flashlite.

Gunner

Got the end of the snap ring up and out a short
way
but ribs on the switch housing prevent the ring
from
coming out of the groove. The ring won't rotate in
the groove. Dead end. The SLAM trick didn't work
either. Sooo, next trick to try is a triangular
pointed
chisel with only the top edge sharp and cut the
battery lengthwise. This may be the best way.
I ain't giving up... ;)}

On 1/14/2015 3:32 PM, Steve W. wrote:
wrote:
On Wed, 14 Jan 2015 10:45:56 -0600, "Paul K. Dickman"
wrote:

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
Grease is an excellent idea. On a similar theme, I've been replacing
corroded light bulbs (with broken bulbs) in 2 different ladies' houses
recently and have used a skosh of either white lithium or vaseline on
the sockets and bases I'm putting the bulbs in. They won't have
another broken bulb again and all those gawdawful incans will be easy
to change from now on. One lady got so rambunctious that she ripped
up the socket base, too. This on a ladder 10' up in her house. She
had the concept OK, but you''re only supposed to put the needle nose
pliers on the broken bulb base and twist. She got both. Aluminum on
aluminum creates a sticky problem.

I use NO-OX grease, the stuff you use for Al wire. Mostly because I
bought a giant tube of it 20 years ago and it's still in my electric
toolkit and nearly full.

Somewhere, decades ago, they started making the bases on cheap bulbs
out of aluminum.
This wasn't a problem because they made the screw shell in the socket
out of brass or nickle.

Then they started cheaping out on the sockets too. Al on Al
(particularly in a base up configuration) is a recipe for problems.

Paul K. Dickman
Not a problem with the lights at our church - the bulbs have not been
lasting long enough for corrosion to set in!!! In the building 16
months and I've replaced half the bulbs already (and that's with less
than 6 hours a week use!!!)

What make are those bulbs???????

Switch to LED, at the rate you're swapping bulbs they would pay for
themselves in about a year!

I suspect the bulbs are special types - but LED's come in all shapes
now. Even Sams have flame lamps.

Martin

On Wednesday, January 14, 2015 at 11:45:40 AM UTC-5, Paul K. Dickman wrote:
"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...

Grease is an excellent idea. On a similar theme, I've been replacing
corroded light bulbs (with broken bulbs) in 2 different ladies' houses
recently and have used a skosh of either white lithium or vaseline on
the sockets and bases I'm putting the bulbs in. They won't have
another broken bulb again and all those gawdawful incans will be easy
to change from now on. One lady got so rambunctious that she ripped
up the socket base, too. This on a ladder 10' up in her house. She
had the concept OK, but you''re only supposed to put the needle nose
pliers on the broken bulb base and twist. She got both. Aluminum on
aluminum creates a sticky problem.


I use NO-OX grease, the stuff you use for Al wire. Mostly because I bought a
giant tube of it 20 years ago and it's still in my electric toolkit and
nearly full.

Somewhere, decades ago, they started making the bases on cheap bulbs out of
aluminum.
This wasn't a problem because they made the screw shell in the socket out of
brass or nickle.

Then they started cheaping out on the sockets too. Al on Al (particularly in
a base up configuration) is a recipe for problems.

A lot of people still think that Al is a problem anywhere near current.

On Wed, 14 Jan 2015 23:14:33 -0600, Martin Eastburn
wrote:

On 1/14/2015 3:32 PM, Steve W. wrote:
wrote:
On Wed, 14 Jan 2015 10:45:56 -0600, "Paul K. Dickman"
wrote:

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
Grease is an excellent idea. On a similar theme, I've been replacing
corroded light bulbs (with broken bulbs) in 2 different ladies' houses
recently and have used a skosh of either white lithium or vaseline on
the sockets and bases I'm putting the bulbs in. They won't have
another broken bulb again and all those gawdawful incans will be easy
to change from now on. One lady got so rambunctious that she ripped
up the socket base, too. This on a ladder 10' up in her house. She
had the concept OK, but you''re only supposed to put the needle nose
pliers on the broken bulb base and twist. She got both. Aluminum on
aluminum creates a sticky problem.

I use NO-OX grease, the stuff you use for Al wire. Mostly because I
bought a giant tube of it 20 years ago and it's still in my electric
toolkit and nearly full.

Somewhere, decades ago, they started making the bases on cheap bulbs
out of aluminum.
This wasn't a problem because they made the screw shell in the socket
out of brass or nickle.

Yeah, remember when it was simple to change a bulb? Easy in, easy out.
Nickel and brass were nice and slippery.


Then they started cheaping out on the sockets too. Al on Al
(particularly in a base up configuration) is a recipe for problems.

Paul K. Dickman
Not a problem with the lights at our church - the bulbs have not been
lasting long enough for corrosion to set in!!! In the building 16
months and I've replaced half the bulbs already (and that's with less
than 6 hours a week use!!!)

If he sticks with incans, he needs to switch to the heavy duty utility
bulbs rated at 130v, but LEDs would be much, much better. The quicker
we get rid of the wasteful incans, the longer our ancient Grid will
last, too. Using 6W instead of 13 (CFL) or 100W (incan) is easier on
the pocketbook.


What make are those bulbs???????

Switch to LED, at the rate you're swapping bulbs they would pay for
themselves in about a year!

I suspect the bulbs are special types - but LED's come in all shapes
now. Even Sams have flame lamps.

I'm buying directly from China until American mfgrs put out something
at a decent price. I can't afford $50 for a bulb, knowwhatImeanVern?
(40/60W-equivalent LED bulbs suck, but that's all that is under $20)
I simply won't support American companies relabeling Chiwanese imports
and selling them at 4x-10x the cost, either.

If you find a bulb style at a good price, consider adapters at a buck
apiece (or less) to fit them to your existing fixtures. I grabbed a
handful of each (gu10, e14, e12, mr16, etc.) adapters so I can run any
lamp in my fixtures. Plus 12v MR16, E26, and T10 for my solar system.
I'm careful to mark all bulbs with the voltage and wattage as they
come in, for later reference and safety, since few are marked.

LEDs beat the hell out of CFLs, too. The early/cheap Chiwanese bulbs
aren't all good, but instant refunds come from the vendors, so it's
not much of a loss. (Shipping takes 2-5 weeks, though some importers
are here in the States and I can buy through these small U.S.
companies and get quick shipping, supporting both them and the good
old USPS!

One thing to look out for is equivalent watts being sold as actual
watts. I'm having that problem with the Eagle Eye bulbs now. Only 1
shipment out of 4 was properly labeled, and I still don't have the 9W
LEDs I wanted for backup lights on my truck. sigh I'll use the
lesser bulbs in flashlights, I guess.

These draw only 110mA @ 12v and are very bright, but not as bright as
they should be. http://tinyurl.com/p85ffbn A pair of those added to
the pair of 3W (70mA) LEDs should do the trick for me, though.


--
The reasonable man adapts himself to the world; the unreasonable
one persists in trying to adapt the world to himself. Therefore,
all progress depends on the unreasonable man.
-- George Bernard Shaw

On 15/01/15 16:53, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Wed, 14 Jan 2015 23:14:33 -0600, Martin Eastburn
wrote:

On 1/14/2015 3:32 PM, Steve W. wrote:
wrote:
On Wed, 14 Jan 2015 10:45:56 -0600, "Paul K. Dickman"
wrote:

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
Grease is an excellent idea. On a similar theme, I've been replacing
corroded light bulbs (with broken bulbs) in 2 different ladies' houses
recently and have used a skosh of either white lithium or vaseline on
the sockets and bases I'm putting the bulbs in. They won't have
another broken bulb again and all those gawdawful incans will be easy
to change from now on. One lady got so rambunctious that she ripped
up the socket base, too. This on a ladder 10' up in her house. She
had the concept OK, but you''re only supposed to put the needle nose
pliers on the broken bulb base and twist. She got both. Aluminum on
aluminum creates a sticky problem.

I use NO-OX grease, the stuff you use for Al wire. Mostly because I
bought a giant tube of it 20 years ago and it's still in my electric
toolkit and nearly full.

Somewhere, decades ago, they started making the bases on cheap bulbs
out of aluminum.
This wasn't a problem because they made the screw shell in the socket
out of brass or nickle.
Yeah, remember when it was simple to change a bulb? Easy in, easy out.
Nickel and brass were nice and slippery.


Then they started cheaping out on the sockets too. Al on Al
(particularly in a base up configuration) is a recipe for problems.

Paul K. Dickman
Not a problem with the lights at our church - the bulbs have not been
lasting long enough for corrosion to set in!!! In the building 16
months and I've replaced half the bulbs already (and that's with less
than 6 hours a week use!!!)
If he sticks with incans, he needs to switch to the heavy duty utility
bulbs rated at 130v, but LEDs would be much, much better. The quicker
we get rid of the wasteful incans, the longer our ancient Grid will
last, too. Using 6W instead of 13 (CFL) or 100W (incan) is easier on
the pocketbook.


What make are those bulbs???????

Switch to LED, at the rate you're swapping bulbs they would pay for
themselves in about a year!

I suspect the bulbs are special types - but LED's come in all shapes
now. Even Sams have flame lamps.
I'm buying directly from China until American mfgrs put out something
at a decent price. I can't afford $50 for a bulb, knowwhatImeanVern?
(40/60W-equivalent LED bulbs suck, but that's all that is under $20)
I simply won't support American companies relabeling Chiwanese imports
and selling them at 4x-10x the cost, either.

If you find a bulb style at a good price, consider adapters at a buck
apiece (or less) to fit them to your existing fixtures. I grabbed a
handful of each (gu10, e14, e12, mr16, etc.) adapters so I can run any
lamp in my fixtures. Plus 12v MR16, E26, and T10 for my solar system.
I'm careful to mark all bulbs with the voltage and wattage as they
come in, for later reference and safety, since few are marked.

LEDs beat the hell out of CFLs, too. The early/cheap Chiwanese bulbs
aren't all good, but instant refunds come from the vendors, so it's
not much of a loss. (Shipping takes 2-5 weeks, though some importers
are here in the States and I can buy through these small U.S.
companies and get quick shipping, supporting both them and the good
old USPS!

One thing to look out for is equivalent watts being sold as actual
watts. I'm having that problem with the Eagle Eye bulbs now. Only 1
shipment out of 4 was properly labeled, and I still don't have the 9W
LEDs I wanted for backup lights on my truck. sigh I'll use the
lesser bulbs in flashlights, I guess.

These draw only 110mA @ 12v and are very bright, but not as bright as
they should be. http://tinyurl.com/p85ffbn A pair of those added to
the pair of 3W (70mA) LEDs should do the trick for me, though.
I have seen a report that mentioned quite a few of the cheap Chinese
bulbs being sold online, at least in the UK, don't meet CE and likely UL
regs even though they are labelled as meeting them. One of the main
issues was lack of a protective covers and that allowed access to
potentially lethal voltage if you touched them while on. Another issue
was the ease of dismantling to get at live potentially parts. One of the
cases highlighted was a LED replacement for a cooker hood bulb where the
house owner got a shock while cleaning due to the lack of a protective
cover on the front of the bulb. Just a heads up.


--
The reasonable man adapts himself to the world; the unreasonable
one persists in trying to adapt the world to himself. Therefore,
all progress depends on the unreasonable man.
-- George Bernard Shaw

On Wed, 14 Jan 2015 23:14:33 -0600, Martin Eastburn
wrote:

On 1/14/2015 3:32 PM, Steve W. wrote:
wrote:
On Wed, 14 Jan 2015 10:45:56 -0600, "Paul K. Dickman"
wrote:

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
Grease is an excellent idea. On a similar theme, I've been replacing
corroded light bulbs (with broken bulbs) in 2 different ladies' houses
recently and have used a skosh of either white lithium or vaseline on
the sockets and bases I'm putting the bulbs in. They won't have
another broken bulb again and all those gawdawful incans will be easy
to change from now on. One lady got so rambunctious that she ripped
up the socket base, too. This on a ladder 10' up in her house. She
had the concept OK, but you''re only supposed to put the needle nose
pliers on the broken bulb base and twist. She got both. Aluminum on
aluminum creates a sticky problem.

I use NO-OX grease, the stuff you use for Al wire. Mostly because I
bought a giant tube of it 20 years ago and it's still in my electric
toolkit and nearly full.

Somewhere, decades ago, they started making the bases on cheap bulbs
out of aluminum.
This wasn't a problem because they made the screw shell in the socket
out of brass or nickle.

Then they started cheaping out on the sockets too. Al on Al
(particularly in a base up configuration) is a recipe for problems.

Paul K. Dickman
Not a problem with the lights at our church - the bulbs have not been
lasting long enough for corrosion to set in!!! In the building 16
months and I've replaced half the bulbs already (and that's with less
than 6 hours a week use!!!)

What make are those bulbs???????

Switch to LED, at the rate you're swapping bulbs they would pay for
themselves in about a year!

I suspect the bulbs are special types - but LED's come in all shapes
now. Even Sams have flame lamps.

Martin
The bulbs are standard 100 watt edison base bulbs.

On Thu, 15 Jan 2015 17:57:43 +0000, David Billington
wrote:

On 15/01/15 16:53, Larry Jaques wrote:

LEDs beat the hell out of CFLs, too. The early/cheap Chiwanese bulbs
aren't all good, but instant refunds come from the vendors, so it's
not much of a loss. (Shipping takes 2-5 weeks, though some importers
are here in the States and I can buy through these small U.S.
companies and get quick shipping, supporting both them and the good
old USPS!

One thing to look out for is equivalent watts being sold as actual
watts. I'm having that problem with the Eagle Eye bulbs now. Only 1
shipment out of 4 was properly labeled, and I still don't have the 9W
LEDs I wanted for backup lights on my truck. sigh I'll use the
lesser bulbs in flashlights, I guess.

These draw only 110mA @ 12v and are very bright, but not as bright as
they should be. http://tinyurl.com/p85ffbn A pair of those added to
the pair of 3W (70mA) LEDs should do the trick for me, though.
I have seen a report that mentioned quite a few of the cheap Chinese
bulbs being sold online, at least in the UK, don't meet CE and likely UL
regs even though they are labelled as meeting them. One of the main
issues was lack of a protective covers and that allowed access to
potentially lethal voltage if you touched them while on. Another issue
was the ease of dismantling to get at live potentially parts. One of the
cases highlighted was a LED replacement for a cooker hood bulb where the
house owner got a shock while cleaning due to the lack of a protective
cover on the front of the bulb. Just a heads up.

Thanks, David. I haven't seen a potentially unsafe LED yet, but I'll
keep my eyes peeled.

Some 120v E26 dimmable 12w spots came in today's mail and when I
disassembled one, the p/s was entirely wrapped in black electrical
tape. the 15w of the same type had the p/s adhered to the inside of
the back cover with RTV/caulk, also protecting fingers from mains
power.

--
The reasonable man adapts himself to the world; the unreasonable
one persists in trying to adapt the world to himself. Therefore,
all progress depends on the unreasonable man.
-- George Bernard Shaw

On Thu, 15 Jan 2015 19:12:40 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Thu, 15 Jan 2015 17:57:43 +0000, David Billington
wrote:

On 15/01/15 16:53, Larry Jaques wrote:

LEDs beat the hell out of CFLs, too. The early/cheap Chiwanese bulbs
aren't all good, but instant refunds come from the vendors, so it's
not much of a loss. (Shipping takes 2-5 weeks, though some importers
are here in the States and I can buy through these small U.S.
companies and get quick shipping, supporting both them and the good
old USPS!

One thing to look out for is equivalent watts being sold as actual
watts. I'm having that problem with the Eagle Eye bulbs now. Only 1
shipment out of 4 was properly labeled, and I still don't have the 9W
LEDs I wanted for backup lights on my truck. sigh I'll use the
lesser bulbs in flashlights, I guess.

These draw only 110mA @ 12v and are very bright, but not as bright as
they should be. http://tinyurl.com/p85ffbn A pair of those added to
the pair of 3W (70mA) LEDs should do the trick for me, though.
I have seen a report that mentioned quite a few of the cheap Chinese
bulbs being sold online, at least in the UK, don't meet CE and likely UL
regs even though they are labelled as meeting them. One of the main
issues was lack of a protective covers and that allowed access to
potentially lethal voltage if you touched them while on. Another issue
was the ease of dismantling to get at live potentially parts. One of the
cases highlighted was a LED replacement for a cooker hood bulb where the
house owner got a shock while cleaning due to the lack of a protective
cover on the front of the bulb. Just a heads up.

Thanks, David. I haven't seen a potentially unsafe LED yet, but I'll
keep my eyes peeled.

Some 120v E26 dimmable 12w spots came in today's mail and when I
disassembled one, the p/s was entirely wrapped in black electrical
tape. the 15w of the same type had the p/s adhered to the inside of
the back cover with RTV/caulk, also protecting fingers from mains
power.
They generally seem to be relatively safely made, but usually don't
have goot thermal contact between the led chips and the heat sink, and
no thermal transfer compound. I've found the assembly quality to be
sketchy at best and even with the CE stickers on them, the 12 volt
MR16s make so much RF that remote controls on the cieling fans don't
work with the lights on.

On 1/15/2015 6:15 PM, wrote:
On Wed, 14 Jan 2015 23:14:33 -0600, Martin Eastburn
wrote:

On 1/14/2015 3:32 PM, Steve W. wrote:
wrote:
On Wed, 14 Jan 2015 10:45:56 -0600, "Paul K. Dickman"
wrote:

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
Grease is an excellent idea. On a similar theme, I've been replacing
corroded light bulbs (with broken bulbs) in 2 different ladies' houses
recently and have used a skosh of either white lithium or vaseline on
the sockets and bases I'm putting the bulbs in. They won't have
another broken bulb again and all those gawdawful incans will be easy
to change from now on. One lady got so rambunctious that she ripped
up the socket base, too. This on a ladder 10' up in her house. She
had the concept OK, but you''re only supposed to put the needle nose
pliers on the broken bulb base and twist. She got both. Aluminum on
aluminum creates a sticky problem.

I use NO-OX grease, the stuff you use for Al wire. Mostly because I
bought a giant tube of it 20 years ago and it's still in my electric
toolkit and nearly full.

Somewhere, decades ago, they started making the bases on cheap bulbs
out of aluminum.
This wasn't a problem because they made the screw shell in the socket
out of brass or nickle.

Then they started cheaping out on the sockets too. Al on Al
(particularly in a base up configuration) is a recipe for problems.

Paul K. Dickman
Not a problem with the lights at our church - the bulbs have not been
lasting long enough for corrosion to set in!!! In the building 16
months and I've replaced half the bulbs already (and that's with less
than 6 hours a week use!!!)

What make are those bulbs???????

Switch to LED, at the rate you're swapping bulbs they would pay for
themselves in about a year!

I suspect the bulbs are special types - but LED's come in all shapes
now. Even Sams have flame lamps.

Martin
The bulbs are standard 100 watt edison base bulbs.

Lots of replacements available in LED.

Martin

On 16/01/15 03:12, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Thu, 15 Jan 2015 17:57:43 +0000, David Billington
wrote:

On 15/01/15 16:53, Larry Jaques wrote:
LEDs beat the hell out of CFLs, too. The early/cheap Chiwanese bulbs
aren't all good, but instant refunds come from the vendors, so it's
not much of a loss. (Shipping takes 2-5 weeks, though some importers
are here in the States and I can buy through these small U.S.
companies and get quick shipping, supporting both them and the good
old USPS!

One thing to look out for is equivalent watts being sold as actual
watts. I'm having that problem with the Eagle Eye bulbs now. Only 1
shipment out of 4 was properly labeled, and I still don't have the 9W
LEDs I wanted for backup lights on my truck. sigh I'll use the
lesser bulbs in flashlights, I guess.

These draw only 110mA @ 12v and are very bright, but not as bright as
they should be. http://tinyurl.com/p85ffbn A pair of those added to
the pair of 3W (70mA) LEDs should do the trick for me, though.
I have seen a report that mentioned quite a few of the cheap Chinese
bulbs being sold online, at least in the UK, don't meet CE and likely UL
regs even though they are labelled as meeting them. One of the main
issues was lack of a protective covers and that allowed access to
potentially lethal voltage if you touched them while on. Another issue
was the ease of dismantling to get at live potentially parts. One of the
cases highlighted was a LED replacement for a cooker hood bulb where the
house owner got a shock while cleaning due to the lack of a protective
cover on the front of the bulb. Just a heads up.
Thanks, David. I haven't seen a potentially unsafe LED yet, but I'll
keep my eyes peeled.

Some 120v E26 dimmable 12w spots came in today's mail and when I
disassembled one, the p/s was entirely wrapped in black electrical
tape. the 15w of the same type had the p/s adhered to the inside of
the back cover with RTV/caulk, also protecting fingers from mains
power.
Just to make it clear the lack of protective covers was over the LEDs
themselves. They showed probing around the LEDs on open contacts could
result in potentially lethal voltage and current which would have been a
fail on the CE testing so dangerous and bogus markings.


--
The reasonable man adapts himself to the world; the unreasonable
one persists in trying to adapt the world to himself. Therefore,
all progress depends on the unreasonable man.
-- George Bernard Shaw

On Thu, 15 Jan 2015 23:08:59 -0600, Martin Eastburn
wrote:

On 1/15/2015 6:15 PM, wrote:
On Wed, 14 Jan 2015 23:14:33 -0600, Martin Eastburn
wrote:

On 1/14/2015 3:32 PM, Steve W. wrote:
wrote:
On Wed, 14 Jan 2015 10:45:56 -0600, "Paul K. Dickman"
wrote:

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
Grease is an excellent idea. On a similar theme, I've been replacing
corroded light bulbs (with broken bulbs) in 2 different ladies' houses
recently and have used a skosh of either white lithium or vaseline on
the sockets and bases I'm putting the bulbs in. They won't have
another broken bulb again and all those gawdawful incans will be easy
to change from now on. One lady got so rambunctious that she ripped
up the socket base, too. This on a ladder 10' up in her house. She
had the concept OK, but you''re only supposed to put the needle nose
pliers on the broken bulb base and twist. She got both. Aluminum on
aluminum creates a sticky problem.

I use NO-OX grease, the stuff you use for Al wire. Mostly because I
bought a giant tube of it 20 years ago and it's still in my electric
toolkit and nearly full.

Somewhere, decades ago, they started making the bases on cheap bulbs
out of aluminum.
This wasn't a problem because they made the screw shell in the socket
out of brass or nickle.

Then they started cheaping out on the sockets too. Al on Al
(particularly in a base up configuration) is a recipe for problems.

Paul K. Dickman
Not a problem with the lights at our church - the bulbs have not been
lasting long enough for corrosion to set in!!! In the building 16
months and I've replaced half the bulbs already (and that's with less
than 6 hours a week use!!!)

What make are those bulbs???????

Switch to LED, at the rate you're swapping bulbs they would pay for
themselves in about a year!

I suspect the bulbs are special types - but LED's come in all shapes
now. Even Sams have flame lamps.

Martin
The bulbs are standard 100 watt edison base bulbs.

Lots of replacements available in LED.

Martin
yes, but there are over 40 of them and at least here in Canada 60 or
100 watt equivalents are still pricey. E still have a couple 8-packs
left - enough to relamp the rest with a few spares - picked up on sale
at thr ocal Home Hardware.

On Fri, 16 Jan 2015 08:18:41 +0000, David Billington
wrote:

On 16/01/15 03:12, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Thu, 15 Jan 2015 17:57:43 +0000, David Billington
wrote:

On 15/01/15 16:53, Larry Jaques wrote:
LEDs beat the hell out of CFLs, too. The early/cheap Chiwanese bulbs
aren't all good, but instant refunds come from the vendors, so it's
not much of a loss. (Shipping takes 2-5 weeks, though some importers
are here in the States and I can buy through these small U.S.
companies and get quick shipping, supporting both them and the good
old USPS!

One thing to look out for is equivalent watts being sold as actual
watts. I'm having that problem with the Eagle Eye bulbs now. Only 1
shipment out of 4 was properly labeled, and I still don't have the 9W
LEDs I wanted for backup lights on my truck. sigh I'll use the
lesser bulbs in flashlights, I guess.

These draw only 110mA @ 12v and are very bright, but not as bright as
they should be. http://tinyurl.com/p85ffbn A pair of those added to
the pair of 3W (70mA) LEDs should do the trick for me, though.
I have seen a report that mentioned quite a few of the cheap Chinese
bulbs being sold online, at least in the UK, don't meet CE and likely UL
regs even though they are labelled as meeting them. One of the main
issues was lack of a protective covers and that allowed access to
potentially lethal voltage if you touched them while on. Another issue
was the ease of dismantling to get at live potentially parts. One of the
cases highlighted was a LED replacement for a cooker hood bulb where the
house owner got a shock while cleaning due to the lack of a protective
cover on the front of the bulb. Just a heads up.
Thanks, David. I haven't seen a potentially unsafe LED yet, but I'll
keep my eyes peeled.

Some 120v E26 dimmable 12w spots came in today's mail and when I
disassembled one, the p/s was entirely wrapped in black electrical
tape. the 15w of the same type had the p/s adhered to the inside of
the back cover with RTV/caulk, also protecting fingers from mains
power.
Just to make it clear the lack of protective covers was over the LEDs
themselves. They showed probing around the LEDs on open contacts could
result in potentially lethal voltage and current which would have been a
fail on the CE testing so dangerous and bogus markings.


--
The reasonable man adapts himself to the world; the unreasonable
one persists in trying to adapt the world to himself. Therefore,
all progress depends on the unreasonable man.
-- George Bernard Shaw
The Leds themselves only runn on 3.5 to 40 volts - 40 for COBs

On Fri, 16 Jan 2015 08:18:41 +0000, David Billington
wrote:

On 16/01/15 03:12, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Thu, 15 Jan 2015 17:57:43 +0000, David Billington
wrote:

On 15/01/15 16:53, Larry Jaques wrote:
LEDs beat the hell out of CFLs, too. The early/cheap Chiwanese bulbs
aren't all good, but instant refunds come from the vendors, so it's
not much of a loss. (Shipping takes 2-5 weeks, though some importers
are here in the States and I can buy through these small U.S.
companies and get quick shipping, supporting both them and the good
old USPS!

One thing to look out for is equivalent watts being sold as actual
watts. I'm having that problem with the Eagle Eye bulbs now. Only 1
shipment out of 4 was properly labeled, and I still don't have the 9W
LEDs I wanted for backup lights on my truck. sigh I'll use the
lesser bulbs in flashlights, I guess.

These draw only 110mA @ 12v and are very bright, but not as bright as
they should be. http://tinyurl.com/p85ffbn A pair of those added to
the pair of 3W (70mA) LEDs should do the trick for me, though.
I have seen a report that mentioned quite a few of the cheap Chinese
bulbs being sold online, at least in the UK, don't meet CE and likely UL
regs even though they are labelled as meeting them. One of the main
issues was lack of a protective covers and that allowed access to
potentially lethal voltage if you touched them while on. Another issue
was the ease of dismantling to get at live potentially parts. One of the
cases highlighted was a LED replacement for a cooker hood bulb where the
house owner got a shock while cleaning due to the lack of a protective
cover on the front of the bulb. Just a heads up.
Thanks, David. I haven't seen a potentially unsafe LED yet, but I'll
keep my eyes peeled.

Some 120v E26 dimmable 12w spots came in today's mail and when I
disassembled one, the p/s was entirely wrapped in black electrical
tape. the 15w of the same type had the p/s adhered to the inside of
the back cover with RTV/caulk, also protecting fingers from mains
power.
Just to make it clear the lack of protective covers was over the LEDs
themselves. They showed probing around the LEDs on open contacts could
result in potentially lethal voltage and current which would have been a
fail on the CE testing so dangerous and bogus markings.

Bbbbut, neither the LEDs (nor the PCB they're installed on, if any)
take mains power, they take 3v. I don't understand how your danger
could show up, unless a 4-y/o was probing the inside of an uncapped
LED case with a screwdriver while it was plugged in and turned on.

--
The reasonable man adapts himself to the world; the unreasonable
one persists in trying to adapt the world to himself. Therefore,
all progress depends on the unreasonable man.
-- George Bernard Shaw

On Thu, 15 Jan 2015 23:08:59 -0600, Martin Eastburn
wrote:

On 1/15/2015 6:15 PM, wrote:
On Wed, 14 Jan 2015 23:14:33 -0600, Martin Eastburn
wrote:

On 1/14/2015 3:32 PM, Steve W. wrote:
wrote:
On Wed, 14 Jan 2015 10:45:56 -0600, "Paul K. Dickman"
wrote:

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
Grease is an excellent idea. On a similar theme, I've been replacing
corroded light bulbs (with broken bulbs) in 2 different ladies' houses
recently and have used a skosh of either white lithium or vaseline on
the sockets and bases I'm putting the bulbs in. They won't have
another broken bulb again and all those gawdawful incans will be easy
to change from now on. One lady got so rambunctious that she ripped
up the socket base, too. This on a ladder 10' up in her house. She
had the concept OK, but you''re only supposed to put the needle nose
pliers on the broken bulb base and twist. She got both. Aluminum on
aluminum creates a sticky problem.

I use NO-OX grease, the stuff you use for Al wire. Mostly because I
bought a giant tube of it 20 years ago and it's still in my electric
toolkit and nearly full.

Somewhere, decades ago, they started making the bases on cheap bulbs
out of aluminum.
This wasn't a problem because they made the screw shell in the socket
out of brass or nickle.

Then they started cheaping out on the sockets too. Al on Al
(particularly in a base up configuration) is a recipe for problems.

Paul K. Dickman
Not a problem with the lights at our church - the bulbs have not been
lasting long enough for corrosion to set in!!! In the building 16
months and I've replaced half the bulbs already (and that's with less
than 6 hours a week use!!!)

What make are those bulbs???????

Switch to LED, at the rate you're swapping bulbs they would pay for
themselves in about a year!

I suspect the bulbs are special types - but LED's come in all shapes
now. Even Sams have flame lamps.

Martin
The bulbs are standard 100 watt edison base bulbs.

Lots of replacements available in LED.

His term "edison base" equates to 'E26'/'E27' (either size fits either
base) or 'medium base'.

--
The reasonable man adapts himself to the world; the unreasonable
one persists in trying to adapt the world to himself. Therefore,
all progress depends on the unreasonable man.
-- George Bernard Shaw