What's the switch called that you use to cut a circuit over from street
'lectricity to a generator?

And do they come in a little 15- or 20-amp version?

I just lost most of today's opportunity to work to a power outage (big
windstorm today), and spent my down-time buying a generator. I can just
toss an extension cord through the window of my office to the generator,
but it'd be nice to connect it to my office plugs instead.

--
www.wescottdesign.com

Tim Wescott wrote:

What's the switch called that you use to cut a circuit over from street
'lectricity to a generator?

And do they come in a little 15- or 20-amp version?

I just lost most of today's opportunity to work to a power outage (big
windstorm today), and spent my down-time buying a generator. I can just
toss an extension cord through the window of my office to the generator,
but it'd be nice to connect it to my office plugs instead.


Transfer Switch.


--
Anyone wanting to run for any political office in the US should have to
have a DD214, and a honorable discharge.

On Wed, 12 Nov 2014 16:08:01 -0600, Tim Wescott
wrote:

What's the switch called that you use to cut a circuit over from street
'lectricity to a generator?

And do they come in a little 15- or 20-amp version?

I just lost most of today's opportunity to work to a power outage (big
windstorm today), and spent my down-time buying a generator. I can just
toss an extension cord through the window of my office to the generator,
but it'd be nice to connect it to my office plugs instead.
It is known as a "Transfer Switch"
Eric

Tim Wescott wrote:

What's the switch called that you use to cut a circuit over from street
'lectricity to a generator?

And do they come in a little 15- or 20-amp version?

I just lost most of today's opportunity to work to a power outage (big
windstorm today), and spent my down-time buying a generator. I can just
toss an extension cord through the window of my office to the generator,
but it'd be nice to connect it to my office plugs instead.

Transfer switch. Not something I recommend to anyone these days in most
cases. Look for an interlock kit to match your electrical panel.
Interlock kits are available for most panels now, in many cases OEM
interlock kits, and they are less expensive and more versatile than a
traditional transfer switch. I use a Square D interlock kit on my 200A
QO panel with a 30A generator feed breaker. It works very well and the
OEM interlock kit was ~$60.

On 2014-11-12, Pete C. wrote:

Tim Wescott wrote:

What's the switch called that you use to cut a circuit over from street
'lectricity to a generator?

And do they come in a little 15- or 20-amp version?

I just lost most of today's opportunity to work to a power outage (big
windstorm today), and spent my down-time buying a generator. I can just
toss an extension cord through the window of my office to the generator,
but it'd be nice to connect it to my office plugs instead.

Transfer switch. Not something I recommend to anyone these days in most
cases. Look for an interlock kit to match your electrical panel.
Interlock kits are available for most panels now, in many cases OEM
interlock kits, and they are less expensive and more versatile than a
traditional transfer switch. I use a Square D interlock kit on my 200A
QO panel with a 30A generator feed breaker. It works very well and the
OEM interlock kit was ~$60.

Ditto, I have a whole house generator and interlock kit, works great
for me.

i

On 11/12/2014 6:26 PM, Pete C. wrote:
....
I use a Square D interlock kit on my 200A
QO panel with a 30A generator feed breaker. It works very well and the
OEM interlock kit was ~$60.


Umm ... the GE's that I found were $150. Why should they be so much
more? Anyhow, I just use the old turn-off-the-main-breaker & back feed
through the welder circuit.

Bob Engelhardt wrote:
On 11/12/2014 6:26 PM, Pete C. wrote:
...
I use a Square D interlock kit on my 200A
QO panel with a 30A generator feed breaker. It works very well and
the OEM interlock kit was ~$60.


Umm ... the GE's that I found were $150. Why should they be so much
more? Anyhow, I just use the old turn-off-the-main-breaker & back
feed through the welder circuit.

Be prepared to catch a ration of **** for doing it that way . I do it the
same thru the shop subpanel , and every time it comes up I get accused of
trying to fry a lineman or something . Hmm , I was just thinking , if a guy
wired them up right a set of lights could not only tell when the power came
back on but could let you synchronize with the grid for uninterrupted
service .

--
Snag

"Bob Engelhardt" wrote in message
...
On 11/12/2014 6:26 PM, Pete C. wrote:
...
I use a Square D interlock kit on my 200A
QO panel with a 30A generator feed breaker. It works very well and
the
OEM interlock kit was ~$60.


Umm ... the GE's that I found were $150. Why should they be so much
more? Anyhow, I just use the old turn-off-the-main-breaker & back
feed through the welder circuit.

Even the cheaper ones are an awful lot of money for a small
sheet-metal stamping.

Terry Coombs wrote:

Bob Engelhardt wrote:
On 11/12/2014 6:26 PM, Pete C. wrote:
...
I use a Square D interlock kit on my 200A
QO panel with a 30A generator feed breaker. It works very well and
the OEM interlock kit was ~$60.


Umm ... the GE's that I found were $150. Why should they be so much
more? Anyhow, I just use the old turn-off-the-main-breaker & back
feed through the welder circuit.

Be prepared to catch a ration of **** for doing it that way . I do it the
same thru the shop subpanel , and every time it comes up I get accused of
trying to fry a lineman or something . Hmm , I was just thinking , if a guy
wired them up right a set of lights could not only tell when the power came
back on but could let you synchronize with the grid for uninterrupted
service .

They can spew that nonsense, but that's all it is. It is physically
impossible for your little generator to "fry a lineman" unless that
lineman violates his safety procedures. They *must* test and ground
every circuit conductor before they are allowed to handle it without
insulating gloves, so it is simply not possible for them to be harmed by
your generator unless *they are at fault*.

Pete C. wrote:
Terry Coombs wrote:

Bob Engelhardt wrote:
On 11/12/2014 6:26 PM, Pete C. wrote:
...
I use a Square D interlock kit on my 200A
QO panel with a 30A generator feed breaker. It works very well and
the OEM interlock kit was ~$60.


Umm ... the GE's that I found were $150. Why should they be so much
more? Anyhow, I just use the old turn-off-the-main-breaker & back
feed through the welder circuit.

Be prepared to catch a ration of **** for doing it that way . I do
it the same thru the shop subpanel , and every time it comes up I
get accused of trying to fry a lineman or something . Hmm , I was
just thinking , if a guy wired them up right a set of lights could
not only tell when the power came back on but could let you
synchronize with the grid for uninterrupted service .

They can spew that nonsense, but that's all it is. It is physically
impossible for your little generator to "fry a lineman" unless that
lineman violates his safety procedures. They *must* test and ground
every circuit conductor before they are allowed to handle it without
insulating gloves, so it is simply not possible for them to be harmed
by your generator unless *they are at fault*.

I can agree they must violate safety procedures to be harmed . Beside the
fact that if the line is still intact to other's houses my genset will trip
out immediately on overload if I'm still connected to the line feed .

--
Snag
Oh , and I like cats as well as dogs ...

On Thu, 13 Nov 2014 07:15:50 -0500, "Pete C."
wrote:


Terry Coombs wrote:

Bob Engelhardt wrote:
On 11/12/2014 6:26 PM, Pete C. wrote:
...
I use a Square D interlock kit on my 200A
QO panel with a 30A generator feed breaker. It works very well and
the OEM interlock kit was ~$60.


Umm ... the GE's that I found were $150. Why should they be so much
more? Anyhow, I just use the old turn-off-the-main-breaker & back
feed through the welder circuit.

Be prepared to catch a ration of **** for doing it that way . I do it the
same thru the shop subpanel , and every time it comes up I get accused of
trying to fry a lineman or something . Hmm , I was just thinking , if a guy
wired them up right a set of lights could not only tell when the power came
back on but could let you synchronize with the grid for uninterrupted
service .

They can spew that nonsense, but that's all it is. It is physically
impossible for your little generator to "fry a lineman" unless that
lineman violates his safety procedures. They *must* test and ground
every circuit conductor before they are allowed to handle it without
insulating gloves, so it is simply not possible for them to be harmed by
your generator unless *they are at fault*.

Correction to the end of that last statement:

"so it is simply not possible for them to be harmed by
your generator unless *both they and you are at fault*."

People are still liable for their actions, so charging a dead power
line with their generator is strongly recommended against.

--
I started out with nothing and
I still have most of it left!
--anon

On Thursday, November 13, 2014 8:09:38 AM UTC-5, Terry Coombs wrote:
Pete C. wrote:
Terry Coombs wrote:

Bob Engelhardt wrote:
On 11/12/2014 6:26 PM, Pete C. wrote:
...
I use a Square D interlock kit on my 200A
QO panel with a 30A generator feed breaker. It works very well and
the OEM interlock kit was ~$60.


Umm ... the GE's that I found were $150. Why should they be so much
more? Anyhow, I just use the old turn-off-the-main-breaker & back
feed through the welder circuit.

Be prepared to catch a ration of **** for doing it that way . I do
it the same thru the shop subpanel , and every time it comes up I
get accused of trying to fry a lineman or something . Hmm , I was
just thinking , if a guy wired them up right a set of lights could
not only tell when the power came back on but could let you
synchronize with the grid for uninterrupted service .

They can spew that nonsense, but that's all it is. It is physically
impossible for your little generator to "fry a lineman" unless that
lineman violates his safety procedures. They *must* test and ground
every circuit conductor before they are allowed to handle it without
insulating gloves, so it is simply not possible for them to be harmed
by your generator unless *they are at fault*.


I can agree they must violate safety procedures to be harmed . Beside the
fact that if the line is still intact to other's houses my genset will trip
out immediately on overload if I'm still connected to the line feed .
--
Snag
Oh , and I like cats as well as dogs ...

I've never liked dogs.

On Thursday, November 13, 2014 7:15:53 AM UTC-5, Pete C. wrote:
Terry Coombs wrote:

Bob Engelhardt wrote:
On 11/12/2014 6:26 PM, Pete C. wrote:
...
I use a Square D interlock kit on my 200A
QO panel with a 30A generator feed breaker. It works very well and
the OEM interlock kit was ~$60.


Umm ... the GE's that I found were $150. Why should they be so much
more? Anyhow, I just use the old turn-off-the-main-breaker & back
feed through the welder circuit.

Be prepared to catch a ration of **** for doing it that way . I do it the
same thru the shop subpanel , and every time it comes up I get accused of
trying to fry a lineman or something . Hmm , I was just thinking , if a guy
wired them up right a set of lights could not only tell when the power came
back on but could let you synchronize with the grid for uninterrupted
service .

They can spew that nonsense, but that's all it is. It is physically
impossible for your little generator to "fry a lineman" unless that
lineman violates his safety procedures. They *must* test and ground
every circuit conductor before they are allowed to handle it without
insulating gloves, so it is simply not possible for them to be harmed by
your generator unless *they are at fault*.

I do the same thing. (Ducks head as people scream at me.) And if I didn't turn off the mains power wouldn't my generator be trying to power up the entire neighborhood? What I'd really like is a little light to come on and tell me when mains power is back on.

George H.

wrote:
On Thursday, November 13, 2014 7:15:53 AM UTC-5, Pete C. wrote:
Terry Coombs wrote:

Bob Engelhardt wrote:
On 11/12/2014 6:26 PM, Pete C. wrote:
...
I use a Square D interlock kit on my 200A
QO panel with a 30A generator feed breaker. It works very well and
the OEM interlock kit was ~$60.


Umm ... the GE's that I found were $150. Why should they be so
much more? Anyhow, I just use the old turn-off-the-main-breaker &
back feed through the welder circuit.

Be prepared to catch a ration of **** for doing it that way . I
do it the same thru the shop subpanel , and every time it comes up
I get accused of trying to fry a lineman or something . Hmm , I
was just thinking , if a guy wired them up right a set of lights
could not only tell when the power came back on but could let you
synchronize with the grid for uninterrupted service .

They can spew that nonsense, but that's all it is. It is physically
impossible for your little generator to "fry a lineman" unless that
lineman violates his safety procedures. They *must* test and ground
every circuit conductor before they are allowed to handle it without
insulating gloves, so it is simply not possible for them to be
harmed by your generator unless *they are at fault*.

I do the same thing. (Ducks head as people scream at me.) And if I
didn't turn off the mains power wouldn't my generator be trying to
power up the entire neighborhood? What I'd really like is a little
light to come on and tell me when mains power is back on.

George H.

George , see my post above . There is a way to wire up lights so you'll
know when the power is back on - and have them usable to synch your genset
to the line so you can make the switch back to "shore power" without
interrupting your wife on her computer while she's surfing for new
(snow)shoes .

--
Snag

On Thu, 13 Nov 2014 07:43:45 -0800 (PST)
wrote:

snip
What I'd really like is a little light to come on and tell me when
mains power is back on.

Mount a handy-box right next to the breaker box. Use a short or offset
nipple. Get a fused outlet cover for the box:

http://www.buyhardwaresupplies.com/?...emNumber=30727

Try assembling the two first. That combination doesn't always fit
together well. The fuse hot lead/wire likes to bump into the nipple. So
look over the clearance good before taking a knock-out out. It can be
done with the right combination

Very carefully route a 12 gauge wire from the new fuse cover/outlet
over to one of the mains cable lugs. This has to be someplace before
the main breaker. Route/attach a neutral over to the neutral bar. When
you have the new cover/box all assembled, ready to go carefully loosen
the main lug and slip the #12 wire in along with the main lead. BE
REALLY CAREFUL IF YOUR MAINS ARE STILL HOT! I did this for a living,
not a big deal to me. Either that or you'll have to wait for a power
failure, pull the meter off... Tighten the lug back up and then tug on
the leads some to make sure they aren't loose. It will most likely go
poof if something ever goes wrong with the #12 wire (pinched, rub
through...). So you don't want that to happen. Put in a 20amp fuse. Now
this plug will always be connected to the outside line, even when the
main breaker is off. Plus you get a handy little outlet by the breaker
panel.

Plug something into the outlet, light, noise maker, radio... whenever
you have the main off and want to know when the main line comes on
again...

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b
Remove no.spam for email

On 11/13/2014 8:09 AM, Terry Coombs wrote:
... Beside the
fact that if the line is still intact to other's houses my genset will trip
out immediately on overload if I'm still connected to the line feed .

That's my take on it. And it's not only the 5 or 6 houses sharing the
pole pig with you, but the pole pig itself. You'd be trying to energize
the pole pig secondary, which would energize the primary and try to
energize all the pole pigs on that 1200v (?) line, etc. In other words,
the service line to your house would look like a dead short to your
generator. Also, with the internal impedance of the generator, its
output voltage would drop way down during the time it takes to trip its
breaker.

Not that I'm going to be complacent about opening my main breaker, but
the risk if I don't is minimal.

Bob

On 11/13/2014 6:59 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:

Even the cheaper ones are an awful lot of money for a small
sheet-metal stamping.

That's all it is? It just prevents your back-feed breaker from being on
unless the main breaker is off?

On Thursday, November 13, 2014 12:31:08 PM UTC-5, Leon Fisk wrote:
On Thu, 13 Nov 2014 07:43:45 -0800 (PST)
wrote:

snip
What I'd really like is a little light to come on and tell me when
mains power is back on.

Mount a handy-box right next to the breaker box. Use a short or offset
nipple. Get a fused outlet cover for the box:

http://www.buyhardwaresupplies.com/?...emNumber=30727

Try assembling the two first. That combination doesn't always fit
together well. The fuse hot lead/wire likes to bump into the nipple. So
look over the clearance good before taking a knock-out out. It can be
done with the right combination

Very carefully route a 12 gauge wire from the new fuse cover/outlet
over to one of the mains cable lugs. This has to be someplace before
the main breaker. Route/attach a neutral over to the neutral bar. When
you have the new cover/box all assembled, ready to go carefully loosen
the main lug and slip the #12 wire in along with the main lead. BE
REALLY CAREFUL IF YOUR MAINS ARE STILL HOT! I did this for a living,
not a big deal to me. Either that or you'll have to wait for a power
failure, pull the meter off... Tighten the lug back up and then tug on
the leads some to make sure they aren't loose. It will most likely go
poof if something ever goes wrong with the #12 wire (pinched, rub
through...). So you don't want that to happen. Put in a 20amp fuse. Now
this plug will always be connected to the outside line, even when the
main breaker is off. Plus you get a handy little outlet by the breaker
panel.

Plug something into the outlet, light, noise maker, radio... whenever
you have the main off and want to know when the main line comes on
again...

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b
Remove no.spam for email

Thanks Leon, Since this only happens once every few years it's not that big of a deal. I've got a big knife switch on the side of my house where the mains comes in and this is where I switch it off.

George H.

Bob Engelhardt fired this volley in
:

Not that I'm going to be complacent about opening my main breaker, but
the risk if I don't is minimal.


Yeah... I have 'basic' mains on the line and the genset, and clear labels
and written instructions hanging inside the breaker box. There's more to
cut off besides JUST the main... the generator can't handle the entire
load (like AC, water heater, etc). Some items are 'optional', depending
upon what else is on. It's all there in the sheet -- just like "Green
Acres" G.

Even if one were to cut over the genset before switching off the main,
all it would do is trip (either the specific main, or the breaker on the
genset).
shrug
LLoyd

Bob Engelhardt fired this volley in
:

That's all it is? It just prevents your back-feed breaker from being on
unless the main breaker is off?

That's all... just a purely mechanical interlock.
L

On 2014-11-13, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:
Bob Engelhardt fired this volley in
:

That's all it is? It just prevents your back-feed breaker from being on
unless the main breaker is off?

That's all... just a purely mechanical interlock.
L

And it is worth the money, considering all the trouble that lack of it
can create.

Not having it is unsafe for linemen, neighbors, and to the generator
itself.

i

Ignoramus10705 fired this volley in
:

Not having it is unsafe for linemen, neighbors, and to the generator
itself.

yeahbut... (My life is dedicated to the "Yeah, But!")

I live in a place and a space where linemen only ever come if you call.
They do not touch our service without a call; hell, they don't even come
when you call! (We're talking "deep rural" here).

The genset has its own breaker, and it will trip long before any damage
can be done. I have not tried it on _this_ genset, but have done before
on others.

My neighbors are all on different pole pigs.

And my 'folks' are all and well trained in the emergency procedure.

It is, after all, just one breaker off and one breaker on, before
starting the generator. After that, if you don't cut off the other
appropriate breakers, it'll just trip the one on the generator, or, if
it's 'smart', it'll just quench, and not deliver.

Lloyd

on 14/11/2014, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh supposed :
Ignoramus10705 fired this volley in
:

Not having it is unsafe for linemen, neighbors, and to the generator
itself.

yeahbut... (My life is dedicated to the "Yeah, But!")

I live in a place and a space where linemen only ever come if you call.
They do not touch our service without a call; hell, they don't even come
when you call! (We're talking "deep rural" here).

The genset has its own breaker, and it will trip long before any damage
can be done. I have not tried it on _this_ genset, but have done before
on others.

My neighbors are all on different pole pigs.

And my 'folks' are all and well trained in the emergency procedure.

It is, after all, just one breaker off and one breaker on, before
starting the generator. After that, if you don't cut off the other
appropriate breakers, it'll just trip the one on the generator, or, if
it's 'smart', it'll just quench, and not deliver.

Lloyd

This dumb argumentative thread reocurs more often than the seasons
change. :-[

--
John G Sydney.

Bob Engelhardt wrote:

On 11/13/2014 8:09 AM, Terry Coombs wrote:
... Beside the
fact that if the line is still intact to other's houses my genset will trip
out immediately on overload if I'm still connected to the line feed .

That's my take on it. And it's not only the 5 or 6 houses sharing the
pole pig with you, but the pole pig itself. You'd be trying to energize
the pole pig secondary, which would energize the primary and try to
energize all the pole pigs on that 1200v (?) line, etc. In other words,
the service line to your house would look like a dead short to your
generator. Also, with the internal impedance of the generator, its
output voltage would drop way down during the time it takes to trip its
breaker.

Not that I'm going to be complacent about opening my main breaker, but
the risk if I don't is minimal.

Bob

If you go to powerlineman.com I think it is, they have an archive of
accident reports. While a few can be attributed to equipment failure or
external forces, most are the result of errors on the part of the
lineman. I recall reading one particularly interesting case where a DWI
driver plowed a pad mount transformer off the pad. The lineman showed up
and looked over the scene of what was left of the pad before picking up
one of the HV "elbow" connectors and starting to clean it with a rag.
Needless to say he got something like a 13KV surprise. Clearly he didn't
follow *any* of the safety procedures such as testing with a meter on a
hot stick, disconnecting and grounding the other end, etc. The DWI
driver may have setup the opportunity for the lineman to fry himself,
but to claim the driver was somehow responsible for such egregious
failures to follow safety procedures is absurd.

On Wed, 12 Nov 2014 18:26:54 -0500, Pete C. wrote:

Tim Wescott wrote:

What's the switch called that you use to cut a circuit over from street
'lectricity to a generator?

And do they come in a little 15- or 20-amp version?

I just lost most of today's opportunity to work to a power outage (big
windstorm today), and spent my down-time buying a generator. I can
just toss an extension cord through the window of my office to the
generator,
but it'd be nice to connect it to my office plugs instead.

Transfer switch. Not something I recommend to anyone these days in most
cases. Look for an interlock kit to match your electrical panel.
Interlock kits are available for most panels now, in many cases OEM
interlock kits, and they are less expensive and more versatile than a
traditional transfer switch. I use a Square D interlock kit on my 200A
QO panel with a 30A generator feed breaker. It works very well and the
OEM interlock kit was ~$60.

I only bought as much generator as I need to keep working, so I really
only need (or want) to supply one or two circuits.

I could do a whole-panel switchover, but then I'd need to shut off
everything but the office lights & plugs before I started up the
generator.

--
www.wescottdesign.com

On 11/12/2014 5:32 PM, Michael A. Terrell wrote:

Tim Wescott wrote:

What's the switch called that you use to cut a circuit over from street
'lectricity to a generator?

And do they come in a little 15- or 20-amp version?

I just lost most of today's opportunity to work to a power outage (big
windstorm today), and spent my down-time buying a generator. I can just
toss an extension cord through the window of my office to the generator,
but it'd be nice to connect it to my office plugs instead.


Transfer Switch.




I thought it was a transvestite switch.

Tim Wescott wrote:

On Wed, 12 Nov 2014 18:26:54 -0500, Pete C. wrote:

Tim Wescott wrote:

What's the switch called that you use to cut a circuit over from street
'lectricity to a generator?

And do they come in a little 15- or 20-amp version?

I just lost most of today's opportunity to work to a power outage (big
windstorm today), and spent my down-time buying a generator. I can
just toss an extension cord through the window of my office to the
generator,
but it'd be nice to connect it to my office plugs instead.

Transfer switch. Not something I recommend to anyone these days in most
cases. Look for an interlock kit to match your electrical panel.
Interlock kits are available for most panels now, in many cases OEM
interlock kits, and they are less expensive and more versatile than a
traditional transfer switch. I use a Square D interlock kit on my 200A
QO panel with a 30A generator feed breaker. It works very well and the
OEM interlock kit was ~$60.

I only bought as much generator as I need to keep working, so I really
only need (or want) to supply one or two circuits.

I could do a whole-panel switchover, but then I'd need to shut off
everything but the office lights & plugs before I started up the
generator.

Spend $60 on an interlock kit for your panel and $30 on an inlet box, or
spend only a little less to rework those circuits to feed single
receptacle boxes next to the panel and put plugs on the circuit
conductors so you can unplug them from the panel feed and plug them into
an extension cord from the generator. Don't forget to factor in the cost
of the extension cords.

Basically, doing it half-ass will cost about $75 and doing it right will
cost about $100 and give you the flexibility to power whatever circuits
are needed at the time.

On Wed, 12 Nov 2014 16:08:01 -0600, Tim Wescott
wrote:

What's the switch called that you use to cut a circuit over from street
'lectricity to a generator?

And do they come in a little 15- or 20-amp version?

I just lost most of today's opportunity to work to a power outage (big
windstorm today), and spent my down-time buying a generator. I can just
toss an extension cord through the window of my office to the generator,
but it'd be nice to connect it to my office plugs instead.
=====================
try one of these @26.82$US w/free shipping.
http://tinyurl.com/knh8rrx


--
Unka' George

"Gold is the money of kings,
silver is the money of gentlemen,
barter is the money of peasants,
but debt is the money of slaves"

-Norm Franz, "Money and Wealth in the New Millenium"

On Fri, 14 Nov 2014 14:04:40 -0500, "Pete C."
wrote:


Tim Wescott wrote:

On Wed, 12 Nov 2014 18:26:54 -0500, Pete C. wrote:

Tim Wescott wrote:

What's the switch called that you use to cut a circuit over from street
'lectricity to a generator?

And do they come in a little 15- or 20-amp version?

I just lost most of today's opportunity to work to a power outage (big
windstorm today), and spent my down-time buying a generator. I can
just toss an extension cord through the window of my office to the
generator,
but it'd be nice to connect it to my office plugs instead.

Transfer switch. Not something I recommend to anyone these days in most
cases. Look for an interlock kit to match your electrical panel.
Interlock kits are available for most panels now, in many cases OEM
interlock kits, and they are less expensive and more versatile than a
traditional transfer switch. I use a Square D interlock kit on my 200A
QO panel with a 30A generator feed breaker. It works very well and the
OEM interlock kit was ~$60.

I only bought as much generator as I need to keep working, so I really
only need (or want) to supply one or two circuits.

I could do a whole-panel switchover, but then I'd need to shut off
everything but the office lights & plugs before I started up the
generator.

Spend $60 on an interlock kit for your panel and $30 on an inlet box, or
spend only a little less to rework those circuits to feed single
receptacle boxes next to the panel and put plugs on the circuit
conductors so you can unplug them from the panel feed and plug them into
an extension cord from the generator. Don't forget to factor in the cost
of the extension cords.

Basically, doing it half-ass will cost about $75 and doing it right will
cost about $100 and give you the flexibility to power whatever circuits
are needed at the time.
Generally speaking I've found if doing it half-assed costs $100 ,
doing it right, if you can do it yourself like you do the half-assed
job, can be done for $80

On Fri, 14 Nov 2014 13:05:13 -0600, F. George McDuffee
wrote:

On Wed, 12 Nov 2014 16:08:01 -0600, Tim Wescott
wrote:

What's the switch called that you use to cut a circuit over from street
'lectricity to a generator?

And do they come in a little 15- or 20-amp version?

I just lost most of today's opportunity to work to a power outage (big
windstorm today), and spent my down-time buying a generator. I can just
toss an extension cord through the window of my office to the generator,
but it'd be nice to connect it to my office plugs instead.
=====================
try one of these @26.82$US w/free shipping.
http://tinyurl.com/knh8rrx
If you didn't have to satisfy an inspector, it would definitly do the
job. One of those "doing it "right" costing less than half-assed"
examples.

On Fri, 14 Nov 2014 12:29:43 -0600, Tim Wescott
wrote:

On Wed, 12 Nov 2014 18:26:54 -0500, Pete C. wrote:

Tim Wescott wrote:

What's the switch called that you use to cut a circuit over from street
'lectricity to a generator?

And do they come in a little 15- or 20-amp version?

I just lost most of today's opportunity to work to a power outage (big
windstorm today), and spent my down-time buying a generator. I can
just toss an extension cord through the window of my office to the
generator,
but it'd be nice to connect it to my office plugs instead.

Transfer switch. Not something I recommend to anyone these days in most
cases. Look for an interlock kit to match your electrical panel.
Interlock kits are available for most panels now, in many cases OEM
interlock kits, and they are less expensive and more versatile than a
traditional transfer switch. I use a Square D interlock kit on my 200A
QO panel with a 30A generator feed breaker. It works very well and the
OEM interlock kit was ~$60.

I only bought as much generator as I need to keep working, so I really
only need (or want) to supply one or two circuits.

I could do a whole-panel switchover, but then I'd need to shut off
everything but the office lights & plugs before I started up the
generator.

And then have to go all around the house changing the flashing 12:00
on clocks everywhere? That's painful.

--
I started out with nothing and
I still have most of it left!
--anon

On Fri, 14 Nov 2014 13:32:49 -0500, Tom Gardner
wrote:

On 11/12/2014 5:32 PM, Michael A. Terrell wrote:

Tim Wescott wrote:

What's the switch called that you use to cut a circuit over from street
'lectricity to a generator?

And do they come in a little 15- or 20-amp version?

I just lost most of today's opportunity to work to a power outage (big
windstorm today), and spent my down-time buying a generator. I can just
toss an extension cord through the window of my office to the generator,
but it'd be nice to connect it to my office plugs instead.


Transfer Switch.

I thought it was a transvestite switch.

You little slut. You thought they named it after you, didn't you?
titter

--
I started out with nothing and
I still have most of it left!
--anon

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Fri, 14 Nov 2014 13:32:49 -0500, Tom Gardner
wrote:

On 11/12/2014 5:32 PM, Michael A. Terrell wrote:

Tim Wescott wrote:

What's the switch called that you use to cut a circuit over from
street 'lectricity to a generator?

And do they come in a little 15- or 20-amp version?

I just lost most of today's opportunity to work to a power outage
(big windstorm today), and spent my down-time buying a generator.
I can just toss an extension cord through the window of my office
to the generator, but it'd be nice to connect it to my office
plugs instead.


Transfer Switch.

I thought it was a transvestite switch.

You little slut. You thought they named it after you, didn't you?
titter

Tranny too ? Hell , I thought he was just a cross-dresser . Nice pumps ...

--
Snag

On 11/14/2014 9:17 PM, Terry Coombs wrote:
Larry Jaques wrote:
On Fri, 14 Nov 2014 13:32:49 -0500, Tom Gardner
wrote:

On 11/12/2014 5:32 PM, Michael A. Terrell wrote:

Tim Wescott wrote:

What's the switch called that you use to cut a circuit over from
street 'lectricity to a generator?

And do they come in a little 15- or 20-amp version?

I just lost most of today's opportunity to work to a power outage
(big windstorm today), and spent my down-time buying a generator.
I can just toss an extension cord through the window of my office
to the generator, but it'd be nice to connect it to my office
plugs instead.


Transfer Switch.

I thought it was a transvestite switch.

You little slut. You thought they named it after you, didn't you?
titter

Tranny too ? Hell , I thought he was just a cross-dresser . Nice pumps ...



I may be a lesbian but none of that perverted stuff!

On 11/12/2014 2:08 PM, Tim Wescott wrote:
What's the switch called that you use to cut a circuit over from street
'lectricity to a generator?

And do they come in a little 15- or 20-amp version?

I just lost most of today's opportunity to work to a power outage (big
windstorm today), and spent my down-time buying a generator. I can just
toss an extension cord through the window of my office to the generator,
but it'd be nice to connect it to my office plugs instead.


Smallest I've seen for code-compliant installation in the US is 60 amps:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Reliance-Controls-60-Amp-Utility-Generator-Transfer-Switch-TCA0606D/202216483

We installed one of these and a separate sub-panel to feed the essential
circuits (computers, furnace, stove, refrigerator, freezer, etc.) for
about $140 and worth every penny.

Prior to that we had a 50A range plug on the generator and a range plug
fed from a 2-pole breaker in the main panel and a range cord feeding the
sub-panel. Manually changing over was not a problem but the transfer
switch makes it a 1/2 second task even in the dark.

Carla

If electricity comes from electrons, does morality come from morons?